Ya im thinking of getting a 2.5 Golf/Rabbit/Jetta to use as a project car. Maybe turbo it eventually. I want something reliable (so not a 2.0 TSI/FSI lol) and can get these 2.5 for cheap. Theres a few trims up in Canada where its basically got the GTI interior too.
@@sth801lifestyle it is km not miles but the car is up to 480,000km now, I have put 40,000km on it in the last year and literally did nothing to it but drive it 👌👌
Thanks for the video, before that I was afraid that my leak was coming from the automatic transmission, but after watching it, I immediately ran to check this vacuum pump, and the leak turned out to be in it. Thanks a lot!!
I have a 2012 Jetta with the 2.5. Bought it new with only 300 miles on it at the dealership for a great cash price paid off. It was just out of warranty in with only regular maintenance was needed and after the dealership did the 65,000 mile regularly scheduled maintenance about two thousand miles after that the camshaft sensor and solenoid both went out at the same time throwing two codes one for each. And the ac compressor went out also. I had a shop do the compressor for a grand and they did a great job and I did the solenoid and sensor for only $60. It now has 68,000 miles on it and no other problems with anything else yet and it runs so smooth. I think 68k miles in twelve years and only the cam shaft sensor and solenoid and ac compressor going out is really good for a car its age and mileage.i couldn’t be happier with it. Looked at this video to look for other common issues. Glad I found the info on that. Only wish oil changes weren’t $150 every 3 months cuz it needs special oil supposedly and where I live my hoa won’t let me do it in my drive way, not to mention the fact that it’s not an easy oil change either. 20 screws just to get the skid plate off and then you can actually get started with the oil change. So it also takes time if you do it yourself, plus with the special oil if you do it yourself you’re still paying at minimum $80. I’d almost rather an extra $70 of removing and re bolting those twenty torque screws just for the skid plate. And I know you don’t really need the skid plate on but if you drive it without the skid plate the crank shaft sensor will go out from road debris. Anyway thanks for the info bro.
I've got a 2011 with 219k miles on it. You definitely don't need to do the oil every 3 months, especially if you're driving it as little as 68k in 12 years would indicate.
It doesn't particularly need special oil, but it does need an OEM filter since non-OEM filters are notorious for causing low oil pressure in these engines. I always ran fully synthetic 5W30 in mine with OEM filters.
My wife's Purge valve went out on her 2014 2.5 Beetle. It was triggering the fuel cap was off, on the dash. I got a new fuel cap, wasn't it, I researched with the code and this valve was the issue.
I have a 2008 VW Rabbit 2.5 with the 09G Automatic Tiptronic transmissionI replaced the usual items which were at life when I bought it with over 140K miles on it: battery, plugs, coils, valve cover with PCV valve, belts, alternator, battery, deleted the vacuum pump, and I upgraded the a/c solenoid switch with the much better RKX Tech one. Now it has over 160K miles on it, has no leaks, burns no oil and gets mpg in the mid-20's around town and mid-30's on the interstate. I only use Sport mode on roads with speed limits less than 70 mph and the car performs wonderfully. The only cons are the sagging headliner (I glued the perimeter, so it looks like the interior of a casket.) and the electrical gremlins in the rear door locks. I love this car!
Do you need to evacuate and refill the AC to swap out the AC solenoid? It's not an issue for me on the Rabbit, but every so often, my Mk6 TDI Golf AC takes a minute or two to kick in, thinking its the solenoid slowly failing.
@@eurodriven2507 Yes. I recommend a professional do this with the proper AC purge/fill machine. It also requires a specific PAG oil in the refrigerant. My AC is MUCH better.
The spray works great on the perimeter, particularly above the rear hatch. However, I've found something that works great for the center section that normally looks like the inside of a casket. It's upholstery tacks that are about 1/2" diameter on the head with a corkscrew shaft. Just twist them in with your fingers - no tools required. You can get them online for just a few dollars a box of 30 or 40. They come in different colors. I used clear heads. The top isn't perfect but it sure looks a lot better than before. @@genuineimpulse9134
@@genuineimpulse9134 My ‘09 2.5l headliner is starting to sag in the rear on the sides slightly. I’ll probably deal with that last. I have to replace the automatic transmission with a used one first before I deal with cosmetics. Only has 135k miles on it.
@@davidandrews8007 The gasket is usually the main point of failure, maybe 60% of the time it is, whoever replaced yours should of replaced all assocatiated gasket the first time or been free repair the 2nd time. The other 40% is from heat off the block warping that sweet shitty volkswagen plastic. I used an all metal replacement I got for like $120-200 cant remember, threw it in with a buddy 2 years ago, still perfect. If it blows again gasket maker around the outside seal is the next option, but in my experience something else plastic and shitty will go first. Ask my valve cover, pcv valve, and oil filter housing 😂
@@davidandrews8007 the main leak is the seal on the front of the vacuum pump behind the cover which is what vw does not recommend removing. The gasket that they had to replace sounds like the gasket between the vacuum pump and the cylinder head, those should always be replaced
@@dt0349 No, I just sold my 2.5. 209k. There are some 2.5’s with over 400k with original chains. These are not like the TSI motors. Use vw 502 oil which is cheap from Walmart.
2009 VW rabbit hatchback 5 speed manual, 2.5 original owner. 110K miles dealing with emissions test BS in Maryland making me become a home mechanic. I tried taking it to the dealer and spent $500 to get a 5K repair estimate. For emissions they said the issue was secondary air injection system sensor fault for a $1400 repair. Plus an oil leak blah, blah blah. Looking at PCV valve or MAYBE I could handle doing the cover. Car runs great. Accelerates like a sports car without paying for insurance on a sports car. I'm six foot five and VW is the only vehicle I've ever been in where I put the seat all the way back and it was too far. Still, my wife is not interested in spending any thousands to get it through emissions so if changing that sensor doesn't fix it we'll see how long I can keep it from becoming a tax write off donation. Thanks for the video, excellent information.
Thanks for the kind words, as for the emissions issues, the secondary air system is finicky. You could try smoke testing it to ensure there aren't any leaks. (I just uploaded a video on a $10 DIY smoke machine setup) As for the sensor, it certainly could be the culprit. This car at one point had a secondary air code, I replaced a hose that's known to clog up and all is well thousands of miles later. It's an updated part that has an inline sensor I left disconnected because this car didn't have that sensor. Not sure if your '09 would have that sensor or not. I believe this is the part #07K198125 - And this is a technical bulletin about it. 2028415 (just search the number on Google and you'll find a PDF). As for the oil leak, the only two common ones are the valve cover gasket and the vacuum pump. The valve cover isn't cheap (because you should replace the entire valve cover+PCV+gasket). ShopDAP has a video on the valve cover replacement, you should torque it to spec, I can't recall if his video has the torque specs, but it should be this - 10 nm = 7.3 ft-lbs = 88.5 in-lbs. The vacuum pump isn't cheap either. For the vacuum pump, I'd recommend doing the delete or a re-seal kit. HumbleMechanic has a great video on re-sealing it. Otherwise, I was able to dramatically slow down the vacuum pump leak this car had by switching to LiquiMoly Leichtlauf 5w40, instead of the Castrol oil it was previously getting.
Fender rust is almost a staple of the MK5 VW's. Apparently the foam sound insulation they used inside the fenders retains moisture and causes a big part of it. So if you swap your fenders out for a clean set later, go ahead and toss the foam in the bin when you're done.
Wait on my 2.5 VW Jetta whenever I turn the car on or put it in reverse there is a small tapping noise coming from the glove compartment area I’m assuming it’s the recirculation motor then? Never knew. Thanks tho
Very informative video. I have one of the earlier 2005.5 2.5s 5MT. Currently at 93k. I should probably ask my mechanic if the car has the updated tensioners. I also did notice that its idle is a little rough (but no check engine light so its probably very small issue). 150bhp is decent imo, but 170 would have been better. would probably go for an intake and exhaust as throttle response is indeed lacking. The main problem with my car was actually a mk5 problem: headliner sag. It is an absolute pain to put back.
Did the vacuum delete before it even started leaking, i hate Automatic's so it wasn't too bad(4 hours by myself) had to change the diaphragm(valve cover gasket) slight leak also cleaned the maf& throttle body while everything was apart Cold air intake makes doing a tune up much faster & i love the suitcase delete & magnaflow exhaust 122k miles & no other issues as of yet
I have a **vw golf 2.5 2014** model and i have had some issues. like p0106 ,p2188,p2187 that i have tried different things like changing the map sensor , pcv valve change, cleaning throttle body and nothing the check engine light still shows. Any recommendation?
Thank you! If I end up getting another 2.5, I'll definitely make a video on the vacuum pump delete. The Spulen kit does come with printed instructions (pictures too), but I don't believe I've seen a video on it. HumbleMechanic's video on re-sealing a leaking pump will get you 80% of the way there and the included instructions will get you the last 20%.
Theres a little misundrstanding with the performance difference between the 150hp to 170hp. They are with the exception of the updated timing chain and swithing to map fro maf, the 2.5 is still essentially the same motor. The biggest change to get that extra 20 oomph comes from the ECU tuning not the motor. If you take a late model 2.5l ECU and plug in to your say 2006 model you'll get free HP.
2008 Rabbit in Toronto, 310,000km dead reliable motor/5spd and original clutch but headliner failed (no dealer part stock) exhaust falls apart piece by piece (except suitcase muffler,) leaking vacuum pump, and the worst fail has been the hatch electrics. The left harness fails. A tough part to get, but replacement not too bad.(Used part, will fail again!) Rockers starting to really rust. It's old and we salt here (excessively.) Interior parts break esp. vents and shifter boot. All available on Aliexpress, parts fit fine. I dread having to buy a VW with turbo and direct injection. Final advice-don't use Monroe Quick Struts. They are good for 20000km then they are finished. Never again.
Awesome video. Hard shift accelerating and stopping seems to be a common enough issue. Sounds like its the shift solenoids. Just diagnosing this in a friends car now. Thoughts on changing out solenoids? Never done it but looks pretty straight forward. (b.t.w. I see what you mean about vacuum pump - dealer told my friend 17 hours of labour and a $300 part)
On the automatics, a lot of transmission issues are caused by the valve body itself rather than the solenoids, though either/both are possible. I'd start with a transmission "learning" / "adapatation" reset and see how that makes it feel. The car in question had a very rare hard downshift in the summer that went away after doing a "reset" of the transmission learning. A couple weeks later, I did give it a full transmission service (drain+filter+gasket+fill) as well. It had never had one documented in the service history, but all is well, still shifting better than ever before with those two simple things.
@@eurodriven2507 From this point of view, if you buy this used Volkswagen car and don't know the past maintenance history, it is safer to choose manual gear. If you buy Toyota Honda used cars, their automatic transmission should be more reliable than Volkswagen's.
I took my car to a close mechanic of mine for a very quick inspection and he said my leak seems to be a rear main seal leak, and that i should take it to a german mechanic since they are somewhat better at leaks like this. I really hope it is just a vacuum pump leak, but is there a way I can spot the difference? and if it is a rear main seal, how expensive would it be to get fixed? I have the 2011 2.5
Odds are hugely in your favor that it's just a vacuum pump. It's not super easy to tell the difference, but these are known for the vacuum pump gaskets failing, the rear main seals are not a common problem in the slightest. 99.99% of the time it'll be the vacuum pump, delete it, clean the area, it'll probably sweat off residual oil for a while like the one in the video did, but not even a drop of oil on the garage floor now. I'm not sure on cost for a shop to do either, see if you can find a VW or Euro shop and ask if they'd install the delete kit. If they know their stuff, they'll probably be familiar with the 2.5's vacuum pump. Best of luck, let me know if you have any more questions!
@@eurodriven2507 This helps greatly! Thank you so much. I will contact them once again but would you think it’s also a good idea to not mention a delete for the pump, but instead a fix they would do? I am taking it to a very well known VW shop in my city and they work on 2.5s every day. I’m pretty sure they’ll be able to tell the problem very quickly, and also I’m not quite sure if I should have them inspect it themselves, or give them a heads up by telling them it’s possibly a vacuum pump gasket leak. Regardless, this does relief me knowing it’s hopefully not a rear main seal! Thank you once again.
The Spulen kit comes with a hose to use the PCV for vacuum. If you just get the blockoff plate, there's a guide on VW vortex showing how to use the N80 valve's vacuum line.
sitting at 226 k , got it at 204 k, best investment by far as i only paid 800 bucks for a misfiring cylinder, car has plenty of balls still and i still get on it every day, 1 redline a day keeps the mechanic away gents
I’m getting a 2013 Passat 2.5 i5 with 88.8k miles tomorrow. Carfax shows a clean service record. I’m hoping and praying this is a good investment. It doesn’t have ANY body damage, not even a scratch. Interior is spotless. It has two owners, but the first owner only had it for a little less than a year. With the age of the vehicle and the miles on it, that’s an average of 9.8k miles per year. That’s nothing. I bet an older couple that stays home a lot probably had it and finally decided to upgrade.
Thank you. I am considering a 2006 Jetta 2.5L with 5sp transmission. It has 126,000 and well maintained. I do not know much about them but it seems like a good deal from my co-worker for $2500. Is it the automatics or manual that had transmission issues, or both? Thanks!!
They each have their own issues, particularly the early automatics. The manuals (when they aren't abused) can last well past 300k miles without needing to be touched.
Did you use OEM parts? I went with a Duralast part. Not my top choice, but I didn't want the car randomly stalling out while I waited for an OEM unit to arrive.
Wich ignition coils brand you used on this one?? They looked like audi ones. I used one of those ones but, even tho it worked perfect, the check engine ligth inmediatelly turned on after that.
Do you have a MAF sensor? If so, don't try to do a cheap intake. If not (2008.5+ cars), measure up the diameter of the pieces needed by measuring the throttle body and buy accordingly. It's a pretty easy system to make if you don't have a MAF.
Just got an 2012 Golf at 85k miles base 2.5 and so far its been for the 2 and half weeks ive had it. Gas milage could be slighty better but overall its a sturdy little car. Not the fastest either but since no turbo i wont have to worry about turbo issues down the road. Ill add some light tunes and body mods eventually once its paid off. Just gotta add the carplay/rear camera stuff soon and tint the windows a bit and it'll be perfect!
Hi my 2011 golf 2.5 has code p0300 and code p0304 I changed my plugs and coils did an oil change and replaced my pcv valve but am still getting the rough idle and misfiring, I’m absolutely lost in what to do?
You might have a vacuum leak elsewhere. Are those the only codes? Is the idle rough in terms of feeling or does the needle move a lot on the tachometer?
This video is a savior for me. You have a similar situation to my own. I have a 12’ Jetta, 125,000 miles manual and I cannot figure out an EPC issue. A mechanic I brought the car to said it was due to oil pressure being too low at 3500 rpm (40psi vs 45) he also claimed he got this result after using “Euro spec” oil. I don’t know what the spec is really. I have replaced the PCV, the Solenoid, high and low oil pressure sensors and all air filters. Do you have a recommendation for code readers? This was a great video, thanks.
VCDS or OBD11 are both VW/Audi specific scan tools, not cheap, but they're incredibly useful. As for the EPC light, that can be a range of things. Do you have other symptoms? Have you tried a different oil? Liqui Moly Leichtlauf is probably the "ideal" oil for these motors. I know it's available at a lot of Napa's near me. I have encountered the EPC light on this car, it was because of the crankshaft position sensor, but you should be able to see that fault code with any old scanner you can borrow from a parts store. If you have a crank sensor fault, normally it will also have issues starting, possible stall out, and possibly be down on power when trying to accelerate.
@@eurodriven2507 There are no other symptoms I can detect. The car has been doing this EPC thing since Ive had it. The EPC light comes on at or around 3500 rpm under any circumstance and turns off if I turn off and on the car. The car never stalls weird or has issues starting. The three OBD11 scanners I tried from various parts stores do not detect the same two codes and some codes cannot even be read. I did address the codes that could be read and I have yet to see a check engine light. I will be trying the oil you recommended as a next step.
@@mikster313 Just to clarify, OBD11 is a special OBD2 scan tool, I believe ShopDAP has a video overview on it if you want to learn more about it. Pairs with a smartphone, basically a pocket VCDS with a few changes. As far as the EPC light goes you could try cleaning out the throttle body, you could try throwing camshaft and crankshaft sensors at it, and you can try a new VVT solenoid, but without a proper diagnosis, you're just doing a parts cannon approach, which I have done (with and without success), but it's a great way to blow a lot of money on what could be something small. I would recommend posting in a local VW fakebook group asking if anyone has a VCDS cable you can use to scan the car and see if you can pin-point the issue. If you're in Minnesota, I'd be happy to help.
@@eurodriven2507 Thanks for the clarification, I actually meant OBD2. My mistake. The shop I brought the car to did a proper diagnosis with a VCDS and all they could determine was that it was oil pressure related. I haven’t brought the car to a dealer for a scan because I have no trust or faith in the local dealers in my area. Ill check out the ShopDap video and see if I can find a cable. Thanks again.
Is it 150hp or 170hp? You can find out via the VIN on a VIN decor site. If it's 170, it has the updated tensioner. The auto transmissions aren't really that bad, this one has 217k on it and no signs of giving up.
I have a **vw golf 2.5 2014** model and i have had some issues. like p0106 ,p2188,p2187 that i have tried different things like changing the map sensor , pcv valve change, cleaning throttle body and nothing the check engine light still shows. Any recommendation?
Smoke test it, if that comes back with no issues, replace the valve cover with a new PCV. I could never get one of those PCV kits to keep the CEL away. Maybe I couldn't install it right, maybe the valve cover was warped. All I know, it was fixed.
If it's the 150hp motor, it has the older timing chain system. If it's 170hp, it's got the newer setup. Use a site like plate to vin to get the VIN, then use a VIN decoder site to find out if it's 150 or 170hp.
How do you get the radio to select aux? I had mine setup and recently messed with it and I can’t figure out how to select aux again. Please send help XC
@@苏蒂斯 In my opinion if someone has the option to buy manual nowadays, I would prefer manual, we have already rebuilt this automatic transmission several years ago
I got the vac pump leak, the rough idle/misfire error and a clunking trans stuck in heavy traffic (rev bam) and the AC blows hot. oh and low air flow at idle.
Do you have access to VCDS? The transmission issue might be resolved by resetting the transmission learning. Is the air flow in regards to the radiator/aux fan or the cabin blower motor? Idle/misfire is likely plugs+coils, PCV, or some other vac leak.
@@eurodriven2507 I just have a bluetooth OBD2 dongle, I think it has clear/relearn. Could bad shifting be from the MAP sensor? The low airflow is at idle, which is low rpm and rough. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and still have a misfire error (the engine got sprayed with water) but I have a fluid leak by the oil filter housing/vac pump area. A foggy water and an oil, it's very slow. My radiator overflow goes down a couple millimeters a week. Is there a video on bypassing the vac pump?
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n MAP sensor can be causing bad shifts, but the map can be tricked by a a vacuum leak. You've likely got an oil cooler leak. That could be causing the vacuum leak, oil leak, and would explain why the coolant is disappearing. Humblemechanic has a video on regasketting the vacuum pump, that's what I used for reference to get my vacuum pump delete done. There's a chance I make a DIY video on the vacuum pump delete relatively soon, but no guarantees. My Fiancee's 2.5 already has it done and my brother's vacuum pump is only leaking a very small amount if any.
@@eurodriven2507 I ordered a map from fcp, it can't hurt to change that. I also got a new valve cover gasket. I have a 2008 2.5 Rabbit too. Any suggestions for where to start diagnosing A/C, it slowly got warmer until no cold air at all now. I'll check out that video for the vac pump, I like his videos.
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n The AC on these cars is variable displacement. You can try to get a new valve put in if your compressor has the serviceable valve.
My son just bought a 2009 and it was clearly not maintained well. Have had to replace the SAI pump and valve and sensor. Was wondering about the tranny fluid in an auto? Is the interval 100k miles? Runs great - fuel economy is getting better as we continue to run premium and fuel system cleaner through it.
There is technically no service interval on the "09G" automatic transmission, VW calls it lifetime fluid. I did a drain and fill/filter (not a flush!) at 215k miles on this Rabbit and it has definitely improved the shifting. Most people would say to do it every 60-80k miles, but don't touch it if the transmission already seems weak, the old fluid might be the only thing holding it together.
@Chris Hsu - Go ahead and change it or have it done. If you DIY it isn't that hard, you just need a pump & nipple you can buy on Amazon & you can use "Valvoline Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid" instead of the more expensive stuff. That tranny doesn't have a dip stick & you have to pump it in through the pan drain. I bought one with 90K on it & changed it & noticed the difference in shifting but I'm going to change it again soon because you still leave about 2-3 quarts of old fluid when you do a change. Also go ahead & change the filter. I'm now at 140K & my secondary air pump is working fine its the leaky vacuum pump seals that suck. Most important on your year model is the Timing Chain & tensioner. You really want to have them replaced if its original. Also if you do DIY I can vouch for Amazon after market parts cause its what I've used on my 2012 2.5 with no issues. For example I had the Throttle Body go bad & I bought one from oreillyauto for over $300 then noticed some on Amazon for $60 so I bought one & figured it was worth a try & that was 40K miles ago no problems. Since then I've bought a few sensors for the emissions crap & an AC Compressor A/C Control Solenoid Valve that fits inside the AC Compressor with a snap ring & all the parts on Amazon are 4 to 5x less. Some people refuse to buy after market sensors but I've never had any issue. BTY the 09G is a Toyota Transmission.
@@ChrisHsuCarsin my 2014 Passat 2.5l service paper work, it states a fluid change every 40k miles. So by 100k miles it should have at least two changes. If it has never been serviced by 100k. Do not open the transmission. Just leave it till it dies. If you do a fluid change or flush after 100k miles you will losen sludge debris and will clog the the internals. Leaving it to fail.
I have a rattling when I am running at idle and slightly gets louder as accelerate then goes away or blends in with normal sounds but the rattling is the loudest at idle
Chain noise is likely to get louder as you climb in RPM. Are you sure it isn't just the injector noise? If you're not already in it, there's an excellent FB Group called "VW 2.5l Group", lots of helpful information over there. If you upload a clip, they should be able to help you figure it out.
@Dylan TheOriginal - Sounds like a catalytic converter that's broken. The interior honeycomb section will break apart & you'll hear it rattling when sitting still. I had one that sounded real bad in drivethru's. I would bet anything that's what it is. If your 2.5L is post 2008 it has a timing chain with a tensioner & I don't see that causing rattling noise. There's guides on the chain but if they failed the engine would suffer catastrophic failure & not run at all. The tensioners do get loser over time but the one on my 2012 2.5 with 200K is still fine. If it was a serious issue though you'd know it.
What do you mean by "ghost"? Intermittent? Constantly pending, but not a "full fault"? Have you done any further diag or replaced any parts so far? Sometimes this can be something as simple as an exhaust leak. There's unfortunately a long list of possibilities and it's hard to say what it is without a VW specific scan tool like OBD11, VCDS, or ODIS. Low fuel pressure. Misfire condition. Large vacuum leak. Air leak near sensor Lean air/fuel ratio Faulty Front Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Catalytic converter Exhaust leak
@@eurodriven2507 I’ve had times where I’ve cleared the code, and it doesn’t show up for 600-1000 miles. Or sometimes the check engine won’t even be on having been on for a while. Have yet to do full diagnostic with vw scanner, or replaced parts. I’ll keep these things in mind as a dig deeper
@@haydensmith3778 P2096 is a "Lean" code & could be an 02 sensor or cat. Should be easy to fix yourself if its a sensor. It could be a wiring short buts its definitely a system to lean code.
I have a 2014 model 2.5 mk6 which is an auto and after some time in traffic it shakes the cabin when increasing its rpm slowly from 2to3 gear , and after sometime it shows the 🔧 at the section where writes PRND After i turn the car off and on again it removes the 🔧 I have checked it for tranmission issues with computer and it doesnt show any error on the tranmission It shows only this P0106 and P2096 Do you think this two are related to the transmission? And in your opinion what should i do?
I would start by replacing the PCV/Valve cover and MAP sensor, make sure to use quality parts. It's difficult to diagnose an issue on a car when you aren't certain if other issues are causing the other one. How many miles does the car have? A transmission fluid service might be in order as well.
@@ditikoci1432 Did you use the correct transmission fluid? I can't remember the required spec, but I know there's Febi fluid and Valvoline fluid that are recommended for it.
@@Lilrumbles If it has the pano sunroof, check there's no moisture in the carpets and that it opens/closes all the way. Otherwise the wagons are basically all the same as the Rabbit/Jetta sedan. My brother just bought an '09 wagon with 230k on it, still runs great!
@@eurodriven2507 excellent news thank you so very much for your opinion. I will make a trip to check it out. If I get it I will update you! Again, thank you for your time!
Sounds like a good option. At that mileage, expect to need a valve cover+PCV, N80 valve, accessory belts and a VVT solenoid sometime in the near future. (assuming they haven't been done yet already)
Very reliable. They're not difficult either. Very well documented too. They might seem a little finicky at first, but I've found these to be exceptionally easy to wrench on and anything that seems odd makes sense when you really ponder it. Just make sure you've got good Torx and Triple square socket sets and you'll be golden for DIY work. I can suggest some if you'd like.
@@eurodriven2507 someone told me if I change the alternator and battery I would have to bring the vehicle to a dealership to relearn the computer. Is that true?
@@cryptoisaac That is not true for these cars. Some of the newer VWs should be "recoded" after a battery change, but the 2.5l cars don't have that level of intricacy with the battery/alternator.
Very spacious and comfortable. Some of the fit and finish isn't as nice as a Golf, but they do hold up well. Check for rust and use the 12yr rust warranty if it's still available.
Thanks! And I probably should have clarified in the video. Any OBD2 adapter is important for DIY car repairs, but OBD11 is a VW/Audi specific scan tool, kind of like VCDS.
Why do people say "motor"? Isn't a motor electrical and an engine mechanical? Light on dash says check engine not motor. Just griping and whining. I'm getting ready to buy a Passat 2.5 SE 5 speed manual. Keeping my 2004 B5.5 1.8T 4motion 5 speed manual with 115K.
@@kluwe801 As long as it feels smooth, it's typically in good shape. You can tell the valve body is begining to go out (and/or it's overdue for a fluid change) if it shifts hard when warm.
@@kluwe801I think the autos are great for hundreds of thousands of miles if they have service history. I would be very careful about buying an automatic version past 100,000 miles with no service history. I’m going to replace my automatic trans due to lack of service history. I’m only 135K miles. My Haynes manual says to do a drain and refill every 30k miles, never a flush. I will follow that service interval after I replace the automatic with a low mileage used one.
@@eurodriven2507 I think the autos are great for hundreds of thousands of miles if they have consistent service history. I would be very careful about buying an automatic version past 100,000 miles with no service history. I’m going to replace my automatic trans due to lack of service history. I’m only 135K miles. My Haynes manual says to do a drain and refill every 30k miles, never a flush. I will follow that service interval after I replace the automatic with a low mileage used one.
@@geraldg4631 This one has 225k miles on it now. It hadn't been serviced in its entire life until about 10k miles ago. I would stick with the recommended 40k mileage intervals for fluid+filters+gasket servicing. The reason I went for a fluid swap was to resolve an intermittent hard downshift issue. On very hot days, it would sometimes begin hard downshifting when coming to a stop. It felt like every stop sign had a pothole in front of it. Ever since the service, it's been buttery smooth. Smoother at 225k with new fluid than it was at 175k actually. Don't flush it (drain only), use OEM fluid+filter, and you'll be good. You'll also need VCDS or OBD11, a fluid transfer pump, and something like these adapters to fill it. amzn.to/4bVmyuL
Our 2010 Golf 2.5L has 153K miles now. It's my wife's car and she doesn't floor it. It runs like a champ; better than new. I use Mobil 1 0W/40 @ every 10K interval. Next time I will switch to 7500 interval. When do we replace the belts? Mine are all original.
I actually wound up replacing both accessory belts around 220k. They're pretty easy and inexpensive. They started out squeaking on startup when cold, but suddenly switched to squeaking constantly. Belt life will largely depend on climate and storage. The belts I took off had VW part numbers so I'm assuming they were factory. Regardless, I'd try to replace them when you have some spare time. Best case scenario, you're probably around 75% used on them.
@@hamdichami4636 Lots of people do 3k, 5k, 10k. I used to do 10k, but now do yearly around 5k. There's a guy with 650k doing 10k intervals. There was a switchover at some point in VW's service schedule, some go for the "updated" 10k, others go for the "safer" 5k. I'm happy doing 10k considering there's a guy with 650k doing 10k.
Re-routing the vacuum line for the break booster will have no negative effect on braking performance. Deleting the vacuum pump doesn't mean it's unassisted brakes, you simply find a new source for vacuum.
Only problem i had with this car is its not rwd i have 200k miles on it change the oil before 10,000 runs like shit after 6k on oil use 5w 40 t5 hyper lube and marvles mystery oil fyi it had chain slap/ piston slap when i got it at 150,000 hasnt slaped after i put the good shit
I called up a dealership and inquired about the warranty. They said to bring it by so they could look it over. They looked it over, noted where there was rust (I was also able to point a couple things out they didn't see right away). We confirmed a week that the car could be gone about a month out. One month later, I brought it in, I believe they had the parts on hand at that point. We got it back fully vacuumed out, new fenders, new hatch.
i have a '10 2.5 jetta with a slow vacuum pump leak, i'm planning on doing the delete job. one option i see online is tying into the n80 hose on top of the intake manifold, apparently preferred to the spulen kit which goes to the pcv valve because this carries the risk of oil vapor drop out, but if the n80 valve can get stuck would that be a problem? which would you go with?
I went with the Spulen kit. There's some debate on if the brake booster check valve could get oil to it, but from what I understand, it shouldn't. Contacting Spulen for info on their decision is probably the best idea. I know a lot of people have been running with their delete kit for years and thousands of miles.
Thinking of getting a 2010 Jetta with 134k miles for 3k are they reliable? I do my work and was wondering if it’s harder since it’s a German car. Would you recommend?
@@cryptoisaac It can be a bit crammed. Once you get the engine/air box cover off. Things become a lot easier. If it's an auto trans and it hasn't been serviced and its shifting fine, don't touch the trans. Since the drivetrain is transversely mounted, doing belts, pulleys, w-pump can be a bit difficult. The engine, transmisson mounts have to come out in order to do the w-pump. You're mainly going to have issues with oil leaks.
@@mikealicious3848 someone told me if I change the alternator and battery I would have to bring the vehicle to a dealership to relearn the computer. Is that true?
When this car is scrapped, everything except the engine will break down. Generally speaking, it is easier to break down than any Japanese car or even a Japanese luxury car, and it is more expensive to repair.
Tbh these cars are boring until an rock puts an hole in your muffler and your car starts sounding like an ttrs /Audi RS3 and Lamborghini Gallardo then you realize you have an poor man’s na ttrs/rs3 😳
What? These things Roar. The best intake sound, 07ks sound better then "real" performance engines like an fa20 or even the TSI..... Besides that they make the same power as a TSI engine even more reliably when tuned..........
Two people buying an automatic: I think the autos are great for hundreds of thousands of miles if they have trans fluid service history. I would be very careful about buying an automatic version past 100,000 miles with no service history. If you do buy one past a 100k with no service history, either you will have a good or bad experience down the road. I’m going to replace my automatic trans due to lack of service history. I’m only at 135K miles. My Haynes manual says to do a drain and refill every 30k miles, never a flush. I will follow that service interval after I replace the automatic with a low mileage used one. These automatics are great if maintained. They are not overbuilt like a Toyota 4spd automatic which will most likely last hundreds of thousands of miles being neglected/without any service history.
Ironically, it's an ASIN transmission, ASIN is majority owned by Toyota. These cars just produce more torque than was probably sensible for the 09G. By and large, they're pretty reliable, but I understand the hesitation. I did the first fluid change on this thing at 215k or so. 7k later, still shifts better than it did from purchase date up to the filter+fluid job. I'll be making a video on my experience (and another on the procedure+info) once it's due for another fluid service.
@@eurodriven2507 I’m getting my replacement trans out of a 2014 2.5l Jetta. The trans has only 27K miles on hit. 700$. I’m going to change the fluid every 40k miles with OEM Febi Bilstein G055025A2. Many use valvoline maxlife, but I feel comfortable sticking with OEM.
@@eurodriven2507 I’m getting my trans replacement out of at ‘14 Jetta 2.5l. Trans has only 27k miles on it for $700. I’ll be doing a drain and fill every 40k miles with OEM Febi Bilstein G055025A2. Many use Valvoline- maxlife, but I feel comfortable sticking with OEM.
"The interior is leagues better than the competition". I mean, no. If there is something bad about this car is the interior. Come on. All VW owners know about saggy headliners and cheap plastic interior parts. My suggestion would be not to buy one with sunroof. Just my two cents.
The sagging headliner is fairly common, some of the plastics don't last very long, but I've seen plenty of Mk3-Mk6 cars with interior still in great shape if not owned by a teenager who abused it at some point. The main thing I was using as a comparison is how non- fatiguing they are to drive. I've done 10 hours of driving in a day, and as a passenger, in these cars. I'm not achey afterwards. Try that in a base model Accord/Prius/Camry. Your body will hurt.
@@eurodriven2507 What you meant was comfort which always will be better than a japanese car. But the quality of the interior is junk on VWs. That's the way it is.
These MK5 Golfs had a pretty nice interior for the time in their class, MK6 went full cheap. Other small cars of the time like the Toyota Matrix, Chevy Malibu and Subaru Impreza have terrible interior quality comparatively.
@@RatBürgerSk8 I think it's important to note - The MK6 Golf and Jetta Sportwagon (called a Golf Sportwagon everywhere but the US) was largely the same inside as a Mk5. Lots of parts interchange, lots of stuff reused The Mk6 Jetta sedan, now that could be optioned to penny pincher cheap.
@@jadiazc disagree. 2.5 2011 had a nicer interior than the comparable Hondas and Toyotas. I compared my 2011 golf 2.5 to a mid 2000s Audi 3 and it was similar except for leather seats
Sadly, I got a lovely Honda Accord for free and I'm too tall to fit in the car. My tiny looking VW rabbit has the most leg room of any car I've ever sat in.
This is the MOST informative video on mk5 rabbit I’ve ever came across. Thank you sir.
Well it's on any VW with the 2.5L really.
Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
MAN I DIDNT EVEN KNOW THERE WAS A 12 YEAR RUST WARRANTY thank you!!!
Me either but it doesn't do me any good with my 2008 in 2024
I just bought a 2012 Golf Wagon with the 2.5L automatic. Your video helped me to decide.
Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
My 09 2.5 has 453k on it and I would get in and drive it anywhere without worrying about to much
Ya im thinking of getting a 2.5 Golf/Rabbit/Jetta to use as a project car. Maybe turbo it eventually. I want something reliable (so not a 2.0 TSI/FSI lol) and can get these 2.5 for cheap. Theres a few trims up in Canada where its basically got the GTI interior too.
@@derekgardin1512literally what i am doing rn and why i am😂
Whaaaat 453k? Miles? Or km? I’m at 165k miles right now and still have lots of plans and hopes for my car 🙏🏼
@@sth801lifestyle it is km not miles but the car is up to 480,000km now, I have put 40,000km on it in the last year and literally did nothing to it but drive it 👌👌
How do you maintain?
Oil, service etc.
Thanks for the video, before that I was afraid that my leak was coming from the automatic transmission, but after watching it, I immediately ran to check this vacuum pump, and the leak turned out to be in it.
Thanks a lot!!
I have a 2012 Jetta with the 2.5. Bought it new with only 300 miles on it at the dealership for a great cash price paid off. It was just out of warranty in with only regular maintenance was needed and after the dealership did the 65,000 mile regularly scheduled maintenance about two thousand miles after that the camshaft sensor and solenoid both went out at the same time throwing two codes one for each. And the ac compressor went out also. I had a shop do the compressor for a grand and they did a great job and I did the solenoid and sensor for only $60. It now has 68,000 miles on it and no other problems with anything else yet and it runs so smooth. I think 68k miles in twelve years and only the cam shaft sensor and solenoid and ac compressor going out is really good for a car its age and mileage.i couldn’t be happier with it. Looked at this video to look for other common issues. Glad I found the info on that. Only wish oil changes weren’t $150 every 3 months cuz it needs special oil supposedly and where I live my hoa won’t let me do it in my drive way, not to mention the fact that it’s not an easy oil change either. 20 screws just to get the skid plate off and then you can actually get started with the oil change. So it also takes time if you do it yourself, plus with the special oil if you do it yourself you’re still paying at minimum $80. I’d almost rather an extra $70 of removing and re bolting those twenty torque screws just for the skid plate. And I know you don’t really need the skid plate on but if you drive it without the skid plate the crank shaft sensor will go out from road debris. Anyway thanks for the info bro.
I've got a 2011 with 219k miles on it. You definitely don't need to do the oil every 3 months, especially if you're driving it as little as 68k in 12 years would indicate.
It doesn't particularly need special oil, but it does need an OEM filter since non-OEM filters are notorious for causing low oil pressure in these engines. I always ran fully synthetic 5W30 in mine with OEM filters.
Great to know about those two sensors. Miles on mine still relatively low at 115K, but I think I'll take care of those right now.
The one hes showing is older model 2.5 5th generation. If yours is 2011 or newer they dont have those issues.
Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
@@wandameadows5736 Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
Is it automatic or manual?
My 2012 SE Jetta has 135k and it runs so strong and smooth still. Only use Chevron, Shell, Mobile gas 91oct and full syn oil changes every 5k
Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
Excellent information! Thank you for the details. Everyone new VW owner with this motor should come here!
My wife's Purge valve went out on her 2014 2.5 Beetle. It was triggering the fuel cap was off, on the dash. I got a new fuel cap, wasn't it, I researched with the code and this valve was the issue.
Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
I have a 2008 VW Rabbit 2.5 with the 09G Automatic Tiptronic transmissionI replaced the usual items which were at life when I bought it with over 140K miles on it: battery, plugs, coils, valve cover with PCV valve, belts, alternator, battery, deleted the vacuum pump, and I upgraded the a/c solenoid switch with the much better RKX Tech one. Now it has over 160K miles on it, has no leaks, burns no oil and gets mpg in the mid-20's around town and mid-30's on the interstate. I only use Sport mode on roads with speed limits less than 70 mph and the car performs wonderfully.
The only cons are the sagging headliner (I glued the perimeter, so it looks like the interior of a casket.) and the electrical gremlins in the rear door locks.
I love this car!
Do you need to evacuate and refill the AC to swap out the AC solenoid? It's not an issue for me on the Rabbit, but every so often, my Mk6 TDI Golf AC takes a minute or two to kick in, thinking its the solenoid slowly failing.
@@eurodriven2507 Yes. I recommend a professional do this with the proper AC purge/fill machine. It also requires a specific PAG oil in the refrigerant. My AC is MUCH better.
2009 VW rabbit and I've got the same sagging headliner. I've bought the spray glue stuff but not yet tried to repair it.
The spray works great on the perimeter, particularly above the rear hatch. However, I've found something that works great for the center section that normally looks like the inside of a casket. It's upholstery tacks that are about 1/2" diameter on the head with a corkscrew shaft. Just twist them in with your fingers - no tools required. You can get them online for just a few dollars a box of 30 or 40. They come in different colors. I used clear heads. The top isn't perfect but it sure looks a lot better than before. @@genuineimpulse9134
@@genuineimpulse9134 My ‘09 2.5l headliner is starting to sag in the rear on the sides slightly. I’ll probably deal with that last. I have to replace the automatic transmission with a used one first before I deal with cosmetics. Only has 135k miles on it.
Also an option is to replace the vacuum pump with a high quality metal one so you don't have that warping problem again, which I did on my 2010 Jetta.
I seal the unit with a rvt for oil a year ago and stop the leaks.
I had my vacuum pump replaced. Then the pump leaked again and they replaced the gasket. So they do replace the gasket.
@@davidandrews8007 The gasket is usually the main point of failure, maybe 60% of the time it is, whoever replaced yours should of replaced all assocatiated gasket the first time or been free repair the 2nd time. The other 40% is from heat off the block warping that sweet shitty volkswagen plastic. I used an all metal replacement I got for like $120-200 cant remember, threw it in with a buddy 2 years ago, still perfect. If it blows again gasket maker around the outside seal is the next option, but in my experience something else plastic and shitty will go first. Ask my valve cover, pcv valve, and oil filter housing 😂
@@davidandrews8007 the main leak is the seal on the front of the vacuum pump behind the cover which is what vw does not recommend removing. The gasket that they had to replace sounds like the gasket between the vacuum pump and the cylinder head, those should always be replaced
I got a 2012 jetta 2.5 and I had bought it used with 130k miles on it only thing I had to replace was the vacuum pump and haven't had issues
My 06 has original chains. Original vacuum pump. So far no noise and no leaks. 162,000 miles. Knocks on wood.
I can sleep tn. Ty lol
@@Mike-ze8uz 190k now. Same. No issues.
@@workingmanaudio2754 Awesome, does the timing chain stretch on these engines?
@@dt0349 No, I just sold my 2.5. 209k. There are some 2.5’s with over 400k with original chains. These are not like the TSI motors. Use vw 502 oil which is cheap from Walmart.
Just got rid of my 09 jetta 2.5 due to excessive body rot it had 333k and was still running like a champ
Nice. Manual or auto?
2009 VW rabbit hatchback 5 speed manual, 2.5 original owner. 110K miles dealing with emissions test BS in Maryland making me become a home mechanic. I tried taking it to the dealer and spent $500 to get a 5K repair estimate. For emissions they said the issue was secondary air injection system sensor fault for a $1400 repair. Plus an oil leak blah, blah blah. Looking at PCV valve or MAYBE I could handle doing the cover. Car runs great. Accelerates like a sports car without paying for insurance on a sports car. I'm six foot five and VW is the only vehicle I've ever been in where I put the seat all the way back and it was too far. Still, my wife is not interested in spending any thousands to get it through emissions so if changing that sensor doesn't fix it we'll see how long I can keep it from becoming a tax write off donation. Thanks for the video, excellent information.
Thanks for the kind words, as for the emissions issues, the secondary air system is finicky. You could try smoke testing it to ensure there aren't any leaks. (I just uploaded a video on a $10 DIY smoke machine setup) As for the sensor, it certainly could be the culprit. This car at one point had a secondary air code, I replaced a hose that's known to clog up and all is well thousands of miles later. It's an updated part that has an inline sensor I left disconnected because this car didn't have that sensor. Not sure if your '09 would have that sensor or not. I believe this is the part #07K198125 - And this is a technical bulletin about it. 2028415 (just search the number on Google and you'll find a PDF).
As for the oil leak, the only two common ones are the valve cover gasket and the vacuum pump. The valve cover isn't cheap (because you should replace the entire valve cover+PCV+gasket). ShopDAP has a video on the valve cover replacement, you should torque it to spec, I can't recall if his video has the torque specs, but it should be this - 10 nm = 7.3 ft-lbs = 88.5 in-lbs.
The vacuum pump isn't cheap either. For the vacuum pump, I'd recommend doing the delete or a re-seal kit. HumbleMechanic has a great video on re-sealing it.
Otherwise, I was able to dramatically slow down the vacuum pump leak this car had by switching to LiquiMoly Leichtlauf 5w40, instead of the Castrol oil it was previously getting.
My 2013 passat 2.5 with 66k miles is awesome and never fails me ❤
Literally just replaced my pcv and purge valve last week. They both failed at the same time!
Not too many videos on VW golf which is what I have,..thanks for the videos
I had the rabbit 🐇 08 with 210000 miles on it when I sold it and didn’t have any issues 😊
Is it automatic or manual?
@@苏蒂斯 manual 😉
@@EddieRicks-i8v Longer service life than automatic transmission, and cheaper maintenance.
@@EddieRicks-i8v thank you
I still have a 2007 vw jetta 2.5 red 4 door. It has 248k miles on it.. i never had issues, besides driver side rust fender.
Fender rust is almost a staple of the MK5 VW's. Apparently the foam sound insulation they used inside the fenders retains moisture and causes a big part of it. So if you swap your fenders out for a clean set later, go ahead and toss the foam in the bin when you're done.
Is it automatic or manual?
Best dam video on the 2.5 period. Direct and to the point. 👍 Thank you for respecting our time 👏
Man this was informative as all heck
Wait on my 2.5 VW Jetta whenever I turn the car on or put it in reverse there is a small tapping noise coming from the glove compartment area I’m assuming it’s the recirculation motor then? Never knew. Thanks tho
Very informative video. I have one of the earlier 2005.5 2.5s 5MT. Currently at 93k. I should probably ask my mechanic if the car has the updated tensioners. I also did notice that its idle is a little rough (but no check engine light so its probably very small issue). 150bhp is decent imo, but 170 would have been better. would probably go for an intake and exhaust as throttle response is indeed lacking. The main problem with my car was actually a mk5 problem: headliner sag. It is an absolute pain to put back.
I sold an 08 rabbit with 190K miles. No engine problems, It needed airconditioner and suspension work.
Did the vacuum delete before it even started leaking, i hate Automatic's so it wasn't too bad(4 hours by myself) had to change the diaphragm(valve cover gasket) slight leak also cleaned the maf& throttle body while everything was apart
Cold air intake makes doing a tune up much faster & i love the suitcase delete & magnaflow exhaust 122k miles & no other issues as of yet
I have a **vw golf 2.5 2014** model and i have had some issues. like p0106 ,p2188,p2187 that i have tried different things like changing the map sensor , pcv valve change, cleaning throttle body and nothing the check engine light still shows. Any recommendation?
Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
I hope everyone drops you a like and comment. Thanks for the info
Wish I knew there was a 12 year warranty. Body is rusting, but the car drives so smooth. 242k km so far on 09 rabbit.
great video, keep it up! informative, precise and too the point. I haven't seen a vacuum pump delete for these cars, any DIY on this?
Thank you! If I end up getting another 2.5, I'll definitely make a video on the vacuum pump delete. The Spulen kit does come with printed instructions (pictures too), but I don't believe I've seen a video on it. HumbleMechanic's video on re-sealing a leaking pump will get you 80% of the way there and the included instructions will get you the last 20%.
Thanks for this i am getting one for my wife a 2014 so i will be looking into all you just mention
Very helpful. Thank you!
Theres a little misundrstanding with the performance difference between the 150hp to 170hp. They are with the exception of the updated timing chain and swithing to map fro maf, the 2.5 is still essentially the same motor. The biggest change to get that extra 20 oomph comes from the ECU tuning not the motor. If you take a late model 2.5l ECU and plug in to your say 2006 model you'll get free HP.
You’ll also need an immobilizer defeat to get a different ECU to work
2008 Rabbit in Toronto, 310,000km dead reliable motor/5spd and original clutch but headliner failed (no dealer part stock) exhaust falls apart piece by piece (except suitcase muffler,) leaking vacuum pump, and the worst fail has been the hatch electrics. The left harness fails. A tough part to get, but replacement not too bad.(Used part, will fail again!) Rockers starting to really rust. It's old and we salt here (excessively.) Interior parts break esp. vents and shifter boot. All available on Aliexpress, parts fit fine. I dread having to buy a VW with turbo and direct injection. Final advice-don't use Monroe Quick Struts. They are good for 20000km then they are finished. Never again.
Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
Thanks for an honest abd informative video.
Awesome video. Hard shift accelerating and stopping seems to be a common enough issue. Sounds like its the shift solenoids. Just diagnosing this in a friends car now. Thoughts on changing out solenoids? Never done it but looks pretty straight forward. (b.t.w. I see what you mean about vacuum pump - dealer told my friend 17 hours of labour and a $300 part)
On the automatics, a lot of transmission issues are caused by the valve body itself rather than the solenoids, though either/both are possible. I'd start with a transmission "learning" / "adapatation" reset and see how that makes it feel. The car in question had a very rare hard downshift in the summer that went away after doing a "reset" of the transmission learning. A couple weeks later, I did give it a full transmission service (drain+filter+gasket+fill) as well. It had never had one documented in the service history, but all is well, still shifting better than ever before with those two simple things.
@@eurodriven2507 Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
@@苏蒂斯 I'm a manual purist so they'll always be my choice. But the 5spds have better longevity and MPG, so there's practical reasons too.
@@eurodriven2507 From this point of view, if you buy this used Volkswagen car and don't know the past maintenance history, it is safer to choose manual gear. If you buy Toyota Honda used cars, their automatic transmission should be more reliable than Volkswagen's.
@@eurodriven2507 In my country, the complaint rate of Volkswagen equipped with this gearbox is higher than that of dsg.
I took my car to a close mechanic of mine for a very quick inspection and he said my leak seems to be a rear main seal leak, and that i should take it to a german mechanic since they are somewhat better at leaks like this. I really hope it is just a vacuum pump leak, but is there a way I can spot the difference? and if it is a rear main seal, how expensive would it be to get fixed? I have the 2011 2.5
Odds are hugely in your favor that it's just a vacuum pump. It's not super easy to tell the difference, but these are known for the vacuum pump gaskets failing, the rear main seals are not a common problem in the slightest.
99.99% of the time it'll be the vacuum pump, delete it, clean the area, it'll probably sweat off residual oil for a while like the one in the video did, but not even a drop of oil on the garage floor now.
I'm not sure on cost for a shop to do either, see if you can find a VW or Euro shop and ask if they'd install the delete kit. If they know their stuff, they'll probably be familiar with the 2.5's vacuum pump.
Best of luck, let me know if you have any more questions!
@@eurodriven2507 This helps greatly! Thank you so much. I will contact them once again but would you think it’s also a good idea to not mention a delete for the pump, but instead a fix they would do? I am taking it to a very well known VW shop in my city and they work on 2.5s every day. I’m pretty sure they’ll be able to tell the problem very quickly, and also I’m not quite sure if I should have them inspect it themselves, or give them a heads up by telling them it’s possibly a vacuum pump gasket leak. Regardless, this does relief me knowing it’s hopefully not a rear main seal! Thank you once again.
@@faresd2570 Hey, saw your comment again and was wondering if it ended up just being the vacuum pump.
@@eurodriven2507I guess we will never know
If I go to the option of deletes the vaccum pump how do you connect the booster hose so that takes the same PCV system??
The Spulen kit comes with a hose to use the PCV for vacuum. If you just get the blockoff plate, there's a guide on VW vortex showing how to use the N80 valve's vacuum line.
@@eurodriven2507 thank you
sitting at 226 k , got it at 204 k, best investment by far as i only paid 800 bucks for a misfiring cylinder, car has plenty of balls still and i still get on it every day, 1 redline a day keeps the mechanic away gents
I’m getting a 2013 Passat 2.5 i5 with 88.8k miles tomorrow. Carfax shows a clean service record. I’m hoping and praying this is a good investment. It doesn’t have ANY body damage, not even a scratch. Interior is spotless. It has two owners, but the first owner only had it for a little less than a year. With the age of the vehicle and the miles on it, that’s an average of 9.8k miles per year. That’s nothing. I bet an older couple that stays home a lot probably had it and finally decided to upgrade.
in western washington, these things ['06-09] are as rare as hen's teeth and one is found invariably they are low 5 figure$.
Bought my 05 in Seattle for under 5 back in 2019. The more I drive it, the more i feel like i stole the bank with this car
@@hamdichami4636 Is it automatic or manual?
Thank you. I am considering a 2006 Jetta 2.5L with 5sp transmission. It has 126,000 and well maintained. I do not know much about them but it seems like a good deal from my co-worker for $2500. Is it the automatics or manual that had transmission issues, or both? Thanks!!
They each have their own issues, particularly the early automatics. The manuals (when they aren't abused) can last well past 300k miles without needing to be touched.
Thank you!@@eurodriven2507
Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
What’s the name of the place you get your parts?
FCP Euro.
What codes were there 2 codes in the beginning of video
Had my crank shaft pos sensor done twice, still intermittently stalls, might need redone
Did you use OEM parts? I went with a Duralast part. Not my top choice, but I didn't want the car randomly stalling out while I waited for an OEM unit to arrive.
To be fair it’s not the weather it’s the salt
Great video. Thank you. Do you know what exhaust was used in your sound clip?
Thanks! Here's the exhaust clip source video.
ruclips.net/video/lu9z9UiSRsY/видео.html
Theres a 2 door 2010 golf 2.5 with 170k miles and 1 owner. Should i get it, im thinking of buying it tomorrow please respond
How much is he asking? Does he have maintenance records for any of the items I mentioned in the video?
$6200 & There is Matience records, seems like the owner just drove it 13k miles every year like a normal car. I think im gonna go with it tomorrow
@@stickmen7117any update please I’m thinking of buying one too
@@stickmen7117 Hello, I want to buy this second-hand golf. Do you want to choose manual transmission or automatic transmission?
Wich ignition coils brand you used on this one?? They looked like audi ones. I used one of those ones but, even tho it worked perfect, the check engine ligth inmediatelly turned on after that.
Bosch red tops, but Denso (OEM) or Bremi would also be a solid choice.
Bosch 0221604800 is the part # used in this car.
U have a tip for do a cheap intake system bro?
Do you have a MAF sensor? If so, don't try to do a cheap intake. If not (2008.5+ cars), measure up the diameter of the pieces needed by measuring the throttle body and buy accordingly. It's a pretty easy system to make if you don't have a MAF.
I bought a 2013 vw golf 2.5 at 70k miles 5 years ago, only has 98k as of yesterday and still no issues other than maintenance
Just got an 2012 Golf at 85k miles base 2.5 and so far its been for the 2 and half weeks ive had it. Gas milage could be slighty better but overall its a sturdy little car. Not the fastest either but since no turbo i wont have to worry about turbo issues down the road. Ill add some light tunes and body mods eventually once its paid off. Just gotta add the carplay/rear camera stuff soon and tint the windows a bit and it'll be perfect!
Is it automatic or manual?
Hi my 2011 golf 2.5 has code p0300 and code p0304 I changed my plugs and coils did an oil change and replaced my pcv valve but am still getting the rough idle and misfiring, I’m absolutely lost in what to do?
You might have a vacuum leak elsewhere. Are those the only codes? Is the idle rough in terms of feeling or does the needle move a lot on the tachometer?
This video is a savior for me. You have a similar situation to my own. I have a 12’ Jetta, 125,000 miles manual and I cannot figure out an EPC issue. A mechanic I brought the car to said it was due to oil pressure being too low at 3500 rpm (40psi vs 45) he also claimed he got this result after using “Euro spec” oil. I don’t know what the spec is really. I have replaced the PCV, the Solenoid, high and low oil pressure sensors and all air filters.
Do you have a recommendation for code readers?
This was a great video, thanks.
VCDS or OBD11 are both VW/Audi specific scan tools, not cheap, but they're incredibly useful. As for the EPC light, that can be a range of things. Do you have other symptoms? Have you tried a different oil? Liqui Moly Leichtlauf is probably the "ideal" oil for these motors. I know it's available at a lot of Napa's near me.
I have encountered the EPC light on this car, it was because of the crankshaft position sensor, but you should be able to see that fault code with any old scanner you can borrow from a parts store. If you have a crank sensor fault, normally it will also have issues starting, possible stall out, and possibly be down on power when trying to accelerate.
@@eurodriven2507 There are no other symptoms I can detect. The car has been doing this EPC thing since Ive had it. The EPC light comes on at or around 3500 rpm under any circumstance and turns off if I turn off and on the car. The car never stalls weird or has issues starting. The three OBD11 scanners I tried from various parts stores do not detect the same two codes and some codes cannot even be read. I did address the codes that could be read and I have yet to see a check engine light. I will be trying the oil you recommended as a next step.
@@mikster313 Just to clarify, OBD11 is a special OBD2 scan tool, I believe ShopDAP has a video overview on it if you want to learn more about it. Pairs with a smartphone, basically a pocket VCDS with a few changes.
As far as the EPC light goes you could try cleaning out the throttle body, you could try throwing camshaft and crankshaft sensors at it, and you can try a new VVT solenoid, but without a proper diagnosis, you're just doing a parts cannon approach, which I have done (with and without success), but it's a great way to blow a lot of money on what could be something small.
I would recommend posting in a local VW fakebook group asking if anyone has a VCDS cable you can use to scan the car and see if you can pin-point the issue. If you're in Minnesota, I'd be happy to help.
@@eurodriven2507 Thanks for the clarification, I actually meant OBD2. My mistake. The shop I brought the car to did a proper diagnosis with a VCDS and all they could determine was that it was oil pressure related. I haven’t brought the car to a dealer for a scan because I have no trust or faith in the local dealers in my area. Ill check out the ShopDap video and see if I can find a cable. Thanks again.
5:17 how about the 2007? looking at some beetle convertible but i heard those transmissions are a nightmare??
Is it 150hp or 170hp? You can find out via the VIN on a VIN decor site. If it's 170, it has the updated tensioner. The auto transmissions aren't really that bad, this one has 217k on it and no signs of giving up.
I have a **vw golf 2.5 2014** model and i have had some issues. like p0106 ,p2188,p2187 that i have tried different things like changing the map sensor , pcv valve change, cleaning throttle body and nothing the check engine light still shows. Any recommendation?
Smoke test it, if that comes back with no issues, replace the valve cover with a new PCV. I could never get one of those PCV kits to keep the CEL away. Maybe I couldn't install it right, maybe the valve cover was warped. All I know, it was fixed.
Are you able to read these codes from a normal obd reader? I have a craftsman one but haven’t tired yet
Going to look at a 2007 rabbit later today it has 153k on it. How can i tell if its the newer motor with updated chain?
If it's the 150hp motor, it has the older timing chain system. If it's 170hp, it's got the newer setup. Use a site like plate to vin to get the VIN, then use a VIN decoder site to find out if it's 150 or 170hp.
How do you get the radio to select aux? I had mine setup and recently messed with it and I can’t figure out how to select aux again. Please send help XC
The "CD" button is also how you select AUX for some reason.
@@eurodriven2507 thanks just found out after hours of digging that because my battery got disconnected and now the aux function no longer works.
2009 automatic jetta with 173k miles still going strong over here
Is it automatic or manual?
@@苏蒂斯 Automatic DSG, but I've seen many manuals here in Miami area
@@diegomfg8650 I feel that it is safer to buy this used car or choose manual gear.
@@苏蒂斯 In my opinion if someone has the option to buy manual nowadays, I would prefer manual, we have already rebuilt this automatic transmission several years ago
I got the vac pump leak, the rough idle/misfire error and a clunking trans stuck in heavy traffic (rev bam) and the AC blows hot. oh and low air flow at idle.
Do you have access to VCDS? The transmission issue might be resolved by resetting the transmission learning.
Is the air flow in regards to the radiator/aux fan or the cabin blower motor?
Idle/misfire is likely plugs+coils, PCV, or some other vac leak.
@@eurodriven2507 I just have a bluetooth OBD2 dongle, I think it has clear/relearn. Could bad shifting be from the MAP sensor? The low airflow is at idle, which is low rpm and rough. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and still have a misfire error (the engine got sprayed with water) but I have a fluid leak by the oil filter housing/vac pump area. A foggy water and an oil, it's very slow. My radiator overflow goes down a couple millimeters a week.
Is there a video on bypassing the vac pump?
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n MAP sensor can be causing bad shifts, but the map can be tricked by a a vacuum leak.
You've likely got an oil cooler leak. That could be causing the vacuum leak, oil leak, and would explain why the coolant is disappearing.
Humblemechanic has a video on regasketting the vacuum pump, that's what I used for reference to get my vacuum pump delete done.
There's a chance I make a DIY video on the vacuum pump delete relatively soon, but no guarantees. My Fiancee's 2.5 already has it done and my brother's vacuum pump is only leaking a very small amount if any.
@@eurodriven2507 I ordered a map from fcp, it can't hurt to change that. I also got a new valve cover gasket. I have a 2008 2.5 Rabbit too.
Any suggestions for where to start diagnosing A/C, it slowly got warmer until no cold air at all now.
I'll check out that video for the vac pump, I like his videos.
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n The AC on these cars is variable displacement. You can try to get a new valve put in if your compressor has the serviceable valve.
My son just bought a 2009 and it was clearly not maintained well. Have had to replace the SAI pump and valve and sensor. Was wondering about the tranny fluid in an auto? Is the interval 100k miles? Runs great - fuel economy is getting better as we continue to run premium and fuel system cleaner through it.
There is technically no service interval on the "09G" automatic transmission, VW calls it lifetime fluid. I did a drain and fill/filter (not a flush!) at 215k miles on this Rabbit and it has definitely improved the shifting. Most people would say to do it every 60-80k miles, but don't touch it if the transmission already seems weak, the old fluid might be the only thing holding it together.
@Chris Hsu - Go ahead and change it or have it done. If you DIY it isn't that hard, you just need a pump & nipple you can buy on Amazon & you can use "Valvoline Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid" instead of the more expensive stuff. That tranny doesn't have a dip stick & you have to pump it in through the pan drain. I bought one with 90K on it & changed it & noticed the difference in shifting but I'm going to change it again soon because you still leave about 2-3 quarts of old fluid when you do a change. Also go ahead & change the filter. I'm now at 140K & my secondary air pump is working fine its the leaky vacuum pump seals that suck. Most important on your year model is the Timing Chain & tensioner. You really want to have them replaced if its original. Also if you do DIY I can vouch for Amazon after market parts cause its what I've used on my 2012 2.5 with no issues. For example I had the Throttle Body go bad & I bought one from oreillyauto for over $300 then noticed some on Amazon for $60 so I bought one & figured it was worth a try & that was 40K miles ago no problems. Since then I've bought a few sensors for the emissions crap & an AC Compressor A/C Control Solenoid Valve that fits inside the AC Compressor with a snap ring & all the parts on Amazon are 4 to 5x less. Some people refuse to buy after market sensors but I've never had any issue. BTY the 09G is a Toyota Transmission.
@@wandameadows5736 thanks! I’ll find out how much to get those things done. My other son works at a VW dealer
@@ChrisHsuCarsin my 2014 Passat 2.5l service paper work, it states a fluid change every 40k miles. So by 100k miles it should have at least two changes. If it has never been serviced by 100k. Do not open the transmission. Just leave it till it dies. If you do a fluid change or flush after 100k miles you will losen sludge debris and will clog the the internals. Leaving it to fail.
@@MiguelGarcia-vj7oo Where did you learn that? As far as not changing the fluid if its beyond several missed fluid changes?
I have a rattling when I am running at idle and slightly gets louder as accelerate then goes away or blends in with normal sounds but the rattling is the loudest at idle
Any suggestions? I'm trying too see if it could be something easier then timing chain
Chain noise is likely to get louder as you climb in RPM. Are you sure it isn't just the injector noise? If you're not already in it, there's an excellent FB Group called "VW 2.5l Group", lots of helpful information over there. If you upload a clip, they should be able to help you figure it out.
@Dylan TheOriginal - Sounds like a catalytic converter that's broken. The interior honeycomb section will break apart & you'll hear it rattling when sitting still. I had one that sounded real bad in drivethru's. I would bet anything that's what it is. If your 2.5L is post 2008 it has a timing chain with a tensioner & I don't see that causing rattling noise. There's guides on the chain but if they failed the engine would suffer catastrophic failure & not run at all. The tensioners do get loser over time but the one on my 2012 2.5 with 200K is still fine. If it was a serious issue though you'd know it.
Would this be a good car for a college student? I’ve never worked on cars but am willing to learn, interested in Mk5/6 hatches with the 5 speed
For sure! Easy to work on, reliable, and economically sound.
I own a 13 Passat I had to replace the compressor, and throttle body that's the major issues I have had and some he me ruined in this video
I've had a ghost P2096 code for a bit. No misfires, and it's not overheating. Any thoughts?
What do you mean by "ghost"? Intermittent? Constantly pending, but not a "full fault"? Have you done any further diag or replaced any parts so far?
Sometimes this can be something as simple as an exhaust leak.
There's unfortunately a long list of possibilities and it's hard to say what it is without a VW specific scan tool like OBD11, VCDS, or ODIS.
Low fuel pressure.
Misfire condition.
Large vacuum leak.
Air leak near sensor
Lean air/fuel ratio
Faulty Front Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor
Catalytic converter
Exhaust leak
@@eurodriven2507 I’ve had times where I’ve cleared the code, and it doesn’t show up for 600-1000 miles. Or sometimes the check engine won’t even be on having been on for a while. Have yet to do full diagnostic with vw scanner, or replaced parts. I’ll keep these things in mind as a dig deeper
@@haydensmith3778 P2096 is a "Lean" code & could be an 02 sensor or cat. Should be easy to fix yourself if its a sensor. It could be a wiring short buts its definitely a system to lean code.
I have a 2014 model 2.5 mk6 which is an auto and after some time in traffic it shakes the cabin when increasing its rpm slowly from 2to3 gear , and after sometime it shows the 🔧 at the section where writes PRND
After i turn the car off and on again it removes the 🔧
I have checked it for tranmission issues with computer and it doesnt show any error on the tranmission
It shows only this P0106 and P2096
Do you think this two are related to the transmission? And in your opinion what should i do?
I would start by replacing the PCV/Valve cover and MAP sensor, make sure to use quality parts.
It's difficult to diagnose an issue on a car when you aren't certain if other issues are causing the other one. How many miles does the car have? A transmission fluid service might be in order as well.
@@eurodriven2507 90k miles , already changed the oil in the transmission
@@ditikoci1432 Did you use the correct transmission fluid? I can't remember the required spec, but I know there's Febi fluid and Valvoline fluid that are recommended for it.
@@eurodriven2507 yes i have done it as it needs on the specs of the car
Did you get this fixed ? Its usually the map sensor.
I’m currently looking at a 2009 2.5 Jetta sport wagon with 94,000 miles. Is there anything you recommend looking at specifically before purchasing?
@@Lilrumbles If it has the pano sunroof, check there's no moisture in the carpets and that it opens/closes all the way. Otherwise the wagons are basically all the same as the Rabbit/Jetta sedan. My brother just bought an '09 wagon with 230k on it, still runs great!
@@eurodriven2507 excellent news thank you so very much for your opinion. I will make a trip to check it out. If I get it I will update you! Again, thank you for your time!
Is it automatic or manual?
@@苏蒂斯 it was automatic. Upon a deeper look I decided to not get it. I’d prefer a manual.
What type o$ exhaust are you running?
The video with the exhaust clip is linked in the description, it's not mine. This car currently has the stock exhaust setup.
Okay I’m looking at a 2008 Jetta for a first car do u think that’s good ?
Assuming the price is right and there's not too much rust, definitely!
Taughts on a 2011 golf 2.5 manual transmission with 150k miles?
Sounds like a good option. At that mileage, expect to need a valve cover+PCV, N80 valve, accessory belts and a VVT solenoid sometime in the near future. (assuming they haven't been done yet already)
@eurodriven2507 Thank you for sharing..I will look into those
@@saigowthambabuamburi6158did u get it?
Thinking of getting a 2010 Jetta with 134k miles for 3k are they reliable? I do my work and was wondering if it’s harder since it’s a German car.
Very reliable. They're not difficult either. Very well documented too. They might seem a little finicky at first, but I've found these to be exceptionally easy to wrench on and anything that seems odd makes sense when you really ponder it. Just make sure you've got good Torx and Triple square socket sets and you'll be golden for DIY work. I can suggest some if you'd like.
@@eurodriven2507 someone told me if I change the alternator and battery I would have to bring the vehicle to a dealership to relearn the computer. Is that true?
@@cryptoisaac That is not true for these cars. Some of the newer VWs should be "recoded" after a battery change, but the 2.5l cars don't have that level of intricacy with the battery/alternator.
you forgot the Beetle with the 2.5
Mine has 80000 kilometers and is spotless I'm only 14
Vw Passat 2.5L what do you think
Very spacious and comfortable. Some of the fit and finish isn't as nice as a Golf, but they do hold up well. Check for rust and use the 12yr rust warranty if it's still available.
i got a 2009 rabbit 🐇with 2.5 motor... manual transmission have for 2 years no problems just oil changes and gas
Thanks for the great review. Anyway, anyone modifying intake and exhaust should rotten in hell.
do you have to buy 12yr rust protection warranty?
Nope, it was an included warranty with all of them.
@@eurodriven2507 i have a 2013 jetta. i read vw changed it to 7 in 2018. would they still honor the original 12yr?
@@anthg8942 yes, the 2018+ models have 7yr, it's still 12 years for anything made before 2018. So for example, a 2016 would be covered until 2028.
Thanks
Helpful Video - will be referring back to it again.
Thanks.
Btw, that's OBDII, as in OBD2, not "OBD eleven" :)
Great video, though!
Thanks! And I probably should have clarified in the video. Any OBD2 adapter is important for DIY car repairs, but OBD11 is a VW/Audi specific scan tool, kind of like VCDS.
@@eurodriven2507 Thanks, I hadn't heard of that tool. I'd heard of the VCDS, but not that one.
all happened to my car and i done most
Thank you
Why do people say "motor"? Isn't a motor electrical and an engine mechanical? Light on dash says check engine not motor. Just griping and whining. I'm getting ready to buy a Passat 2.5 SE 5 speed manual. Keeping my 2004 B5.5 1.8T 4motion 5 speed manual with 115K.
ty sir
You forgot the ac compressors and electric power steering
How are the transmission in these?
The automatics or the manuals? Both are quite good, but each have things to look out for.
@@eurodriven2507 automatic in general sorry for not being specific
@@kluwe801 As long as it feels smooth, it's typically in good shape. You can tell the valve body is begining to go out (and/or it's overdue for a fluid change) if it shifts hard when warm.
@@kluwe801I think the autos are great for hundreds of thousands of miles if they have service history. I would be very careful about buying an automatic version past 100,000 miles with no service history. I’m going to replace my automatic trans due to lack of service history. I’m only 135K miles.
My Haynes manual says to do a drain and refill every 30k miles, never a flush. I will follow that service interval after I replace the automatic with a low mileage used one.
@@eurodriven2507 I think the autos are great for hundreds of thousands of miles if they have consistent service history. I would be very careful about buying an automatic version past 100,000 miles with no service history. I’m going to replace my automatic trans due to lack of service history. I’m only 135K miles.
My Haynes manual says to do a drain and refill every 30k miles, never a flush. I will follow that service interval after I replace the automatic with a low mileage used one.
Too bad NA 4cy 5cy engines not used in SUVs.
is this a DSG or 09G trans?
Any 2.5 with an automatic is the 09G.
@@eurodriven2507 how is it so far? Any maintenance tips with it? How often do you do like fluid changes?
@@geraldg4631 This one has 225k miles on it now. It hadn't been serviced in its entire life until about 10k miles ago. I would stick with the recommended 40k mileage intervals for fluid+filters+gasket servicing.
The reason I went for a fluid swap was to resolve an intermittent hard downshift issue. On very hot days, it would sometimes begin hard downshifting when coming to a stop. It felt like every stop sign had a pothole in front of it. Ever since the service, it's been buttery smooth. Smoother at 225k with new fluid than it was at 175k actually.
Don't flush it (drain only), use OEM fluid+filter, and you'll be good. You'll also need VCDS or OBD11, a fluid transfer pump, and something like these adapters to fill it.
amzn.to/4bVmyuL
Our 2010 Golf 2.5L has 153K miles now. It's my wife's car and she doesn't floor it. It runs like a champ; better than new. I use Mobil 1 0W/40 @ every 10K interval. Next time I will switch to 7500 interval. When do we replace the belts? Mine are all original.
I actually wound up replacing both accessory belts around 220k. They're pretty easy and inexpensive. They started out squeaking on startup when cold, but suddenly switched to squeaking constantly. Belt life will largely depend on climate and storage. The belts I took off had VW part numbers so I'm assuming they were factory. Regardless, I'd try to replace them when you have some spare time. Best case scenario, you're probably around 75% used on them.
Oil change interval for this car is every 5000 miles.
@@hamdichami4636 Lots of people do 3k, 5k, 10k. I used to do 10k, but now do yearly around 5k. There's a guy with 650k doing 10k intervals. There was a switchover at some point in VW's service schedule, some go for the "updated" 10k, others go for the "safer" 5k. I'm happy doing 10k considering there's a guy with 650k doing 10k.
@@eurodriven2507 Sure, but I use full synthetic and this is not a high reving engine, there is no need to go below 5K if you're using that.
When u delete the vacuums pump you lose valuable breaking with panic stops
Re-routing the vacuum line for the break booster will have no negative effect on braking performance. Deleting the vacuum pump doesn't mean it's unassisted brakes, you simply find a new source for vacuum.
Only problem i had with this car is its not rwd i have 200k miles on it change the oil before 10,000 runs like shit after 6k on oil use
5w 40 t5 hyper lube and marvles mystery oil fyi it had chain slap/ piston slap when i got it at 150,000 hasnt slaped after i put the good shit
Is it automatic or manual?
What intake and exhaust do you have on that or is the one featured just an example.
Here's the original video I got the clip from.
ruclips.net/video/lu9z9UiSRsY/видео.html
How did you go about getting VW to replace the rusted parts under their warranty?
I called up a dealership and inquired about the warranty. They said to bring it by so they could look it over. They looked it over, noted where there was rust (I was also able to point a couple things out they didn't see right away). We confirmed a week that the car could be gone about a month out. One month later, I brought it in, I believe they had the parts on hand at that point. We got it back fully vacuumed out, new fenders, new hatch.
i have a '10 2.5 jetta with a slow vacuum pump leak, i'm planning on doing the delete job. one option i see online is tying into the n80 hose on top of the intake manifold, apparently preferred to the spulen kit which goes to the pcv valve because this carries the risk of oil vapor drop out, but if the n80 valve can get stuck would that be a problem? which would you go with?
I went with the Spulen kit. There's some debate on if the brake booster check valve could get oil to it, but from what I understand, it shouldn't. Contacting Spulen for info on their decision is probably the best idea. I know a lot of people have been running with their delete kit for years and thousands of miles.
I went with the vacuum pump delete kit. No issues since I fixed it over a year ago in July 2022.
Thinking of getting a 2010 Jetta with 134k miles for 3k are they reliable? I do my work and was wondering if it’s harder since it’s a German car. Would you recommend?
@@cryptoisaac It can be a bit crammed. Once you get the engine/air box cover off. Things become a lot easier. If it's an auto trans and it hasn't been serviced and its shifting fine, don't touch the trans. Since the drivetrain is transversely mounted, doing belts, pulleys, w-pump can be a bit difficult. The engine, transmisson mounts have to come out in order to do the w-pump. You're mainly going to have issues with oil leaks.
@@mikealicious3848 someone told me if I change the alternator and battery I would have to bring the vehicle to a dealership to relearn the computer. Is that true?
When this car is scrapped, everything except the engine will break down. Generally speaking, it is easier to break down than any Japanese car or even a Japanese luxury car, and it is more expensive to repair.
Tbh these cars are boring until an rock puts an hole in your muffler and your car starts sounding like an ttrs /Audi RS3 and Lamborghini Gallardo then you realize you have an poor man’s na ttrs/rs3 😳
I mean in the world of hot hatches the base model rabbit s is a beast
What? These things Roar. The best intake sound, 07ks sound better then "real" performance engines like an fa20 or even the TSI..... Besides that they make the same power as a TSI engine even more reliably when tuned..........
Remove the resonators and go brapppppppl
Happened to me lol. The car sounded amazing after I hit a pothole. I had to fix it because i was waking everybody up.
I will never gef another 2.5 because of the timing chain.
Which year did you have?
Two people buying an automatic:
I think the autos are great for hundreds of thousands of miles if they have trans fluid service history. I would be very careful about buying an automatic version past 100,000 miles with no service history. If you do buy one past a 100k with no service history, either you will have a good or bad experience down the road. I’m going to replace my automatic trans due to lack of service history. I’m only at 135K miles. My Haynes manual says to do a drain and refill every 30k miles, never a flush. I will follow that service interval after I replace the automatic with a low mileage used one. These automatics are great if maintained. They are not overbuilt like a Toyota 4spd automatic which will most likely last hundreds of thousands of miles being neglected/without any service history.
Ironically, it's an ASIN transmission, ASIN is majority owned by Toyota. These cars just produce more torque than was probably sensible for the 09G. By and large, they're pretty reliable, but I understand the hesitation. I did the first fluid change on this thing at 215k or so. 7k later, still shifts better than it did from purchase date up to the filter+fluid job. I'll be making a video on my experience (and another on the procedure+info) once it's due for another fluid service.
@@eurodriven2507 I’m getting my replacement trans out of a 2014 2.5l Jetta. The trans has only 27K miles on hit. 700$. I’m going to change the fluid every 40k miles with OEM Febi Bilstein G055025A2. Many use valvoline maxlife, but I feel comfortable sticking with OEM.
@@eurodriven2507 I’m getting my trans replacement out of at ‘14 Jetta 2.5l. Trans has only 27k miles on it for $700. I’ll be doing a drain and fill every 40k miles with OEM Febi Bilstein G055025A2. Many use Valvoline- maxlife, but I feel comfortable sticking with OEM.
"The interior is leagues better than the competition". I mean, no. If there is something bad about this car is the interior. Come on. All VW owners know about saggy headliners and cheap plastic interior parts. My suggestion would be not to buy one with sunroof. Just my two cents.
The sagging headliner is fairly common, some of the plastics don't last very long, but I've seen plenty of Mk3-Mk6 cars with interior still in great shape if not owned by a teenager who abused it at some point. The main thing I was using as a comparison is how non- fatiguing they are to drive. I've done 10 hours of driving in a day, and as a passenger, in these cars. I'm not achey afterwards. Try that in a base model Accord/Prius/Camry. Your body will hurt.
@@eurodriven2507 What you meant was comfort which always will be better than a japanese car. But the quality of the interior is junk on VWs. That's the way it is.
These MK5 Golfs had a pretty nice interior for the time in their class, MK6 went full cheap. Other small cars of the time like the Toyota Matrix, Chevy Malibu and Subaru Impreza have terrible interior quality comparatively.
@@RatBürgerSk8 I think it's important to note -
The MK6 Golf and Jetta Sportwagon (called a Golf Sportwagon everywhere but the US) was largely the same inside as a Mk5. Lots of parts interchange, lots of stuff reused The Mk6 Jetta sedan, now that could be optioned to penny pincher cheap.
@@jadiazc disagree. 2.5 2011 had a nicer interior than the comparable Hondas and Toyotas. I compared my 2011 golf 2.5 to a mid 2000s Audi 3 and it was similar except for leather seats
It’s an engine.
Or just buy a Honda Accord and enjoy that sweet k24
Handling and interior quality go to the VW every day. Plus, 5 cylinder noises, more power, better MPG.
Sadly, I got a lovely Honda Accord for free and I'm too tall to fit in the car. My tiny looking VW rabbit has the most leg room of any car I've ever sat in.
German junk
The 2.5 is the 3800 series 2 of the VW world. Just sayin.
Right amount of power, gas mileage, and incredibly durable