Tiny House Water Supply Plumbing (Ep.31)
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- We build and explain the plumbing that will distribute water throughout the tiny house.
Tiny Nest follows Jake & Kiva's tiny house project, from the early stages, to completion and beyond.
3D TINY HOUSE DESIGN TUTORIAL --- bit.ly/tiny-design
IRON EAGLE TRAILER DISCOUNT --- bit.ly/tiny-tra...
⏵VIRTUAL TINY HOUSE TOURS --- bit.ly/vr-tiny-...
BUILDING SERIES --- bit.ly/tiny-build
SUBSCRIBE --- bit.ly/tiny-sub...
-- music in this episode --
Artist: Broke For Free
Track: Wash Out 
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Thank you! I am impressed with how much thought and effort you put into your videos. Your attention to detail makes your videos such a great resource! My daughter is 12 and would like to build a tiny house. She really admires both of you.
Catherine Morgan Starting early! nice ;) Thanks for watching you guys
Certainly admire your well thought out and neatness of your projects. Most I've seen have looked like jury-rigged set-ups that look temporary. Best wishes.
Gary Fox We're hoping the house will last a long time :)
I'm going to steal that idea for the pressure equalizing loop. I did it at the college in the garden beds in the courtyard. (we have 5 beds, 4 x 22 with vegetables for the foods and culinary program) The beds have 3 -3/4 inch lines that are 22 feet in each bed with drip irrigation, and by time it gets to the end there was no pressure. A retired plumber helped me do the loops at the end of the runs, and it works well. Each bed has a loop, and all the runs are tied together in another loop. I never thought of using it in a closed system like that. Sure hope you are holding an open house when it's done. Love to see it.
gary pollock Nice, glad to hear another example of it's application. We're open to having visitors, and we may host a RUclips-streamed tiny-house-warming party when it's all done!
Thanks for the vlog as always the level of detail is very informative.
Looking good. Nice job with the pex. Very neat work. Very impressed. Good luck with your pressure test.
Love the PEX. Good job on the install. Can't wait to see the pressure test. I hope it's solid with no leaks but just in case.....have the camera's rolling for the blooper reel!! :)
Your plumbing layout and installation look very good. I would suggest to anyone doing this (1) Pex is made in 3 types, Pex A, Pex B and Pex C, based on how the tube is manufactured. The significant difference is in the method of making connections. B & C use copper or steel crimp rings.
I plumbed two old houses with Pex B and found about one in ten connections leaked and had to be redone. Annoying but not a deal breaker. The tube tends to get out of round when cut and I discovered that wetting the tube made it easier to slide a copper ring on and if needed, a tee fitting pushed in the open end held the tube round so I could get the ring on. The biggest problem was when I needed to get the crimp tool into a tight spot like you had underneath the outside penetration.
I an now using Pax A which I found at Menards. Only two manufacturers(Uponor & Sioux Chief) make Pex A and the fittings and rings will not interchange with the Pex B & C fittings. Instead of using the more expensive brass fittings except for the metal to metal connections, I am using the poly (plastic) tees and ells (etc) which are about 25 cents each (vs $5.00 - $10.00 each for brass). The connection rings are pex and the tool expands the ring and pex end and you have thirty or seconds or so to slip the fitting in before the tube shrinks back down on the barb, holding it very tight and getting easily into those tight spots.
The tool is a bit more expensive, but you can find them on eBay and resell them when you are finished.
Instead of struggling to force the tube insulation down in a hole, I would suggest putting the pipe in the oversize hole and using some "Great Stuff"or similar spray foam insulation in a can to fill the hole from both sides.
arbeeex Some very good info and tips here, thanks so much for sharing. We did originally look for PEX A but it seemed to be uncommon (not regularly stocked) in our area, so we just went with the standard stuff. I think PEX A is probably better, but so far our PEX seems to be OK. We'll make a video if we encounter any leaks ;)
The only reason we struggled with the insulation sleeve was to ensure that the pipe would be centred and evenly cushioned in the hole.
Pex A can be found online - just google PexA or look it up on amazon.com
arbeeex Aye, thanks :)
Fantastic vid! Doing plumbing on my own TH. Very helpful, thank you!
+A. Randolph Thanks for watching!
I love how tidy the joins are - nicely done.
Thanks, we probably would not do that square flow-equalizer part again though... I haven't had time to do a scientific test, but in retrospect I don't think it has enough of an effect to be worthwhile.
Hi! Wonderful series. I'm ready to do my rough and its really intimidating. Can you recommend a resource for leaning to layout the pex system for the tiny house/rv?
Thanks for watching :)
We just googled for info and watched videos on RUclips to figure it out, but I will say one thing which is to try to make your lines as short as possible and to avoid any fittings inside the wall cavities.
Great job you two are doing.
Wayne K Woods Thanks!
thank you for the effort you put into these videos, insanely helpful and much appreciated. i am just starting my tiny house build
preying for zombies Thanks for watching and good luck with your project! let us know how it goes :)
doing great guys, really enjoying the series, can not wait for next installment.
David Jones Thanks. Hopefully the next video will be soon. The clips are ready to edit... just need to spend the time :P
A temporary plug for the water hose connection for when your not hooked up to prevent bugs and dirt from entering the system might be an idea. Excellent work.
All then Best
bigolmoose69 Thanks for the suggestion :)
for the sprinkler regulator thing you could paint a switch box and mount it behind the regulator
We've actually taken out that regulator for now :P and this should all be hidden under the kitchen counter, out of sight out of mind :)
Thank you for the video helped me grasp pumping for my skoolie
nice!
Hi and thanks for your reply. As far as your grey water drainage goes I am
having a little trouble figuring out how to do it. I want to be able to
rough-in that portion before I put the floor sheathing on but my question
is by just going straight through the floor/insulation and then using
rubber connectors to combine all the drains together with a 3" abs pipe and
then to the spaces sewer?
If so if and when you move your tiny just put the main drain in your tow
vehicle?
Your help with this problem would be super helpful.
Thank you.
P.S. my folks live on the island too up in Parksville. I myself live in
Sacramento, California but I am a Canadian too.
+Larry “TYPHOON” Read We decided to leave it since we didn't have the exact position (down the the inch) of where the drains were going to need to go. We will likely use flexible tubing from where the drains poke through, right over to the drainage, which might be a french-drain, or a tank that we pump out.... keep in mind that we won't be moving much and our solid waste will all be composted.
In examining your system, your intent to use the distribution manifold was to try to keep from having a pressure drop. Understand your pipe size is the same throughout. Keep in mind you have a one volume pipe size in and 3x volume pipe size ports out. OK!
I have worked with distribution manifolds before. I have a different understanding of this and I may be wrong but hear me through.
You may need a larger pipe size on the intake side of your water system-- up until it is reduced after the the distribution point to keep from having pressure loss. The manifold should have the same large diameter pipe which comes into the house. It would be reduced at the dedicated line point. Example; Where your cold water pipe runs to your hot water heater pipe. That is where your reduction should be.
I don't think you will have any major problems with the way you have hooked up your system now.
Take just a minute of your time and consider you have a 1/2" line coming into your house. This line is connected with brass hose barb fittings. Question what is the internal diameter of the hose barb? Not the outside diameter of the hose barb but the internal diameter of the hose barb. Is it 1/2" This is your water volume. Your PEX pipe may be 1/2" internal diameter. Is the internal diameter of the hose barb also 1/2", or do you have to allow for the walls of the hose barb? I do not have a PEX fitting available to check this information.
If you have difficulties maybe the information I have provided here may help you,
Thank you for your time. Hope all works well.
Rita Mastin The fittings have a smaller diameter yes. We don't have any experience with this so the choice to use all 1/2" came almost entirely from looking online for flow charts for various pipe diameters, and then comparing that to what fixtures we plan to have in the house. From what I could tell, 1/2" pipe was MORE than enough to serve the entire house. Whether or not there will be a noticeable pressure or flow drop while multiple fixtures are flowing simultaneously has yet to be seen, but we will definitely follow up in a future video to let everyone know. It's hard to imagine situations where we will be flowing more than two things at once. It should also be mentioned that we will be fed from an RV-style potable water hose, so before the water even reaches our tiny house, it will have flown through other piping and then through the hose.
Jake , it will all work out. You will have plenty of pressure. What I gave you was just food for thought for future plans hopefully. You and Kiva have a beautiful day. Wonderful to talk to you again. Peace.
Rita Mastin As always, thanks for your input :) and take care.
Excellent episode
Bernard El :D
Another great video guys. Thanks for your time. :)
Jeff Jones Thanks for watching :)
thank you for the information. awesome !!
Forgive me if you already covered this in another video, but will you be sharing on drainage lines and how you prep/cut through subfloor for that?
LAURAH BOOGAARD That will be coming later. We are a fair bit farther along than this plumbing, but even so, we have yet to tackle drainage. Stay tuned!
muchas gracias desde Chile
;D
Good job. Thanks for the video.
eric miller Thank you for watching :)
So I'm a plumber that has somewhat recently become interested in building a tiny house. I keep seeing people put in pressure balancing manifolds. I'll just say that I wouldn't and leave it at that.
Do you think it has merit in a larger, more complicated system? or is it a misunderstood thing? thanks for your feedback :)
In a much much larger system. Like a hospital, or a high rise. Or in very specific uses, like a shower with multiple body sprays. I mean obviously it isn't going to cause any problems, it's just that you aren't going to see any measurable gains on a system that small.
Thanks for the feedback, it's nice to hear a direct experienced response to give more insight into to subject :D
My pleasure :)
I am currently putting together my plumbing for my bus tiny house thing, and I was wondering about this very thing. I will have a supply line (w/ a check valve) that Ys to the tank with a valve (to fill it up) and then to the rest of the system while I'm on city water, which will also meet another Y from the check valved pump. that part isn't the relevant part, but I figured I'd see what you thought anyway. from the single supply line it will be Y'd to the cold water lines and to the water heater. from there it'll be Y'd into the kitchen sink and shower, likewise after the water heater. does that sound right? my guess is that if I were running the sink and shower at the same time, I might suffer drop in pressure, but I also don't think it'll matter much. what do y'all think?
DAT PRESSURE TEST CLIFFHANGER!!!
***** inorite
The coat hanger technique!
Brent Reynolds ;D see how much it went through there?
for the water system I believe it would have been good idea to make a water tank supply incase you moving around in your house. do you guys have any plans for that?
+Roelby Gomez We may look into rain catchment in the future but for now we're going to stay in one place and use the property's water supply.
Another awesome video! Looking forward to many more.
Ryan Martin Looking forward to getting closer to finishing! thanks for watching :)
Hi!
Great video once again.
How are you going to keep mud and grime off of that water connection?
Greetings from Finland!
PEX will degrade rapidly when exposed to UV light, I just learned. So, is there a different way to design the inlet to prevent this?
We had a piece of plywood in front of it for a while before we built around it ;)
I was wondering why you did the square loop in the pipes - I had seen that pic on Facebook awhile back and wasn't quite sure why you were running water around in a circle - You would need 2 water supplies right from the source to make it work - I've seen it done on very large homes - they have ran the pipes directly from the well to the cold water manifold down both sides of the basement - I can see what you were trying to do and like you had mentioned in the video you didn't think it would make much of a difference and I don't think so either since it wasn't split from the source.
Sachi WI Ha, yes we had a few people asking about it. A comment from "gary pollock" describes how he used a similar type of loop in an irrigation system and that it worked well... but maybe that's a different situation. Anyway, we'll see, and I can't see any reason why this would have a negative impact.
Nice job!
Nice video! What about a DWV video?
Brad O'connor We'll be doing our drainage soon(ish) ;)
awesome!
Ring me soon as you get the house finished so I can purchase it! Hey you can build another.ha
Really though Thanks so much for the videos!!!
Tim
ScootOverMan Thanks for watching :D
Great job yall!
SONofZEUS :D
Hi, Great series. I am looking into container homes, but a lot applies. I was wondering why you decided to have the double hose link for the manifold? I mean instead of just a direct split.
+Ahman Millener Thanks for watching :) If you're referring to the loop in the manifold, I saw a video (while researching plumbing) where the guy described how a loop helps equalize pressure when multiple lines are flowing at once... not sure if it's going to have much effect, but decided to put it in anyway.
Oh that's cool and a good idea. I'm sure it will work.... Thank for the reply....
Another great video! Keep'em coming. 😊
Brent Whitney Definitely more to come!
Spray foam might have been better for sealing that hole securely.
HellsingSage Definitely an option. One advantage of the wrap-around is that it guarantees an equal amount of insulation in all directions.
Great video.
PCsbyDesign :)
With the small system you have, your set up should work just fine; but ideally you should of started with a 1" line as the supply including the manifold you made then reduced to the 3/4" or 1/2" line you are using.
Duane C The thing is that we're going to be fed from a hose anyway :P and as a novice plumber (or rather, not a plumber at all) I researched flow rates of different pipe sizes and compared them to our planned fixtures/draw etc. and unless I made a mistake, the 1/2" should be like several times the capacity of the entire house.... only time will tell, but hopefully some small plumbing is enough for the tiny house!
About the uneven fit on the ring. I have watched video's that say you should crimp it around to make sure it's evenly fit and that you can fit the check all the way around.
+Ahman Millener Hm, we tested it and it seemed all good... so here's hoping that we don't have any problems!
Great videos! Regarding the potable water hose and connectors - do you recall what exactly you used (meaning the adapters and the size of the potable water hose)? I'm headed to Home Depot or Lowes later today and I was hoping to pick up what I needed - looks like you had maybe a 1/2" Brass PEX Barb x 1/2" Brass Male Pipe Thread Adapter (on the PEX side), and then I'm not sure what you had that connects to the hose? Something with two female ends I'm guessing. I was also curious if the diameter of your potable hose is the same as your 1/2" PEX or if it's different? Thanks!
+Sac TinyHouse The fitting for the hose is just a 1/2" PEX barb on one side, and the female thread for the hose on the other. We just test-fit the fittings as we were buying them, so I didn't make a list of parts or anything :P
I was super stressed as i'm approaching the plumbing phase. I like how you did this. I saw in another comment that you ditched that regulator, are you not using a regulator at all now? Are you still happy with this water heater?
Yeah the regulator seemed to have a tiny leak that I could not track down... so in the interest of getting the plumbing pressurized without worrying about it, we removed it. The pressure is fine, we were just hoping to stabilize it a little. Our water-heater has been very good so far. We will make a video review about it after we have used it for showering etc.
Man your fast lol
;D
Did you say you were going to remove that panel to put in the insulation? I don't see how.
It looks good though. I would put valves everywhere so you can work on faucets and the like without shutting off all the water. It's ridiculous how often we have to shut off the water to my building.
Not sure how long the run is from heater to most distant faucet, but have you looked into recirculating systems so that the hot water is always hot? Sorry if I've mention this before and REALLY sorry if you are not using a tank heater.
MakeMeThinkAgain We'll just unscrew it to slip the insulation and vapour barrier behind the plywood (so that we don't have to cut and seal around the plywood backer).
The great thing about the house being tiny is that it's literally impossible to be more than a few steps away from the main shutoff :D so hopefully the one shutoff (plus hot water shutoff) will be sufficient.
We are interested in things like a recirculating system, but maybe we'll look into it down the road. Everything under the kitchen cabinets will be accessible. We have an on-demand propane water heater and the longest run (the toilet's sink) is 25' at most.
like a bullhead tee
Jake was this manifold system sold as a kit?
No, and in retrospect we probably wouldn't bother with this again, since it's such a small plumbing system. There is a comment (possibly on this video) from a very helpful plumber who gave his opinion on this manifold practice...
Great video, thanks :)
Thanks for watching!
any thoughts on how you will prevent freezing on the outside of the house? in my TH research, this is an important factor for me where I live. I am currently thinking of wrapping the outside hose in insulation over top of a heat tape. any thoughts on this? another thought would be, do you need a 'food grade' hose for your water supply or are you just going to deal with a rubber taste in your water?
thanks for the fantastic video! :)
alzathoth We will very likely be installing heat-tape on the RV-style potable water hose that will run from the garage out to the house above-ground. And the tape will be controlled by the house's computer... just you wait... smart-tiny-house incoming
Hi guys, what a great series! We are building our own tiny house and are learning so much from you! I've been reading Tiny House guidelines and it stated this: "10.j. Plumbing must be vented through either the roof or a side wall (just below the roof line with an RV wall vent cap), in accordance with NFPA 1192, Chapter 7.6. However, unvented sinks are acceptable with HepVo traps." Did you end up venting your plumbing system? How did you accomplish it or why didn't you? Thank you for your suggestions!
+Vladimir Dubovskiy We will be adding our drainage plumbing a bit later, and we plan on using a p-trap alternative... it will be a bit of an experiment, so stay tuned :)
really curious to see it. Thanks!
Vladamir, I am trying to reach you, just saw your home on tv.
Do you not have a water storage tank? Thank you for sharing this information with us! :)
+VAN SOLO I love your name/avatar! No we don't have a tank built into the system, but we might add something outside, like a stand-alone storage or rainwater-catchment in the future.
Thanks, I intend to do some traveling in my van once my tiny house is built ;) -hence the name lol.. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos they are great!!
+VAN SOLO Yeah we figured that was the meaning behind the name... so good :D Thanks for watching!
Is there a reason you didn't do the piping under the floor like regular single story homes and for more direct routes(save on amount of pipe needed)? Is there any preference that you have found in your research for Tiny homes?
+Handy Woman Because of the way we built into the trailer, we would have had to run the plumbing during one of the very first building steps, and we simply weren't prepare for that. Running it inside the walls let us figure out the routes once all the framing was done :)
+Tiny Nest....thanks for confirmation, that's kinda what I figured. I know it would have been a big commitment to have done it at the early stages. They way you did it worked out well and it gave you more time and comfort with your decisions. I'm really enjoying your series a lot. The details are outstanding. I really appreciate that you share your thought process of how you came to your decisions.
+Handy Woman We appreciate you watching and commenting :)
do you have to teflon tape all the joints? i.e. the blue ones in the video?
+Ahsan Shahid The crimp connections have no threads at all, it's entirely compression.
you could use way less fittings to do this. like on t maybe!?
I'm sure we could have made it simpler... first-time plumber here, so we like to focus more on the fact that there were no leaks! :D
Hi, Great video! How much did it cost to install plumbing? Kicy
Thanks... we'll hopefully do a decent cost breakdown in the future, but off the top of my head I'd say a few hundred $
do you recall what the name of the pieces you used for the hose connection where called?
+LiveYourLife89 The fitting that adapts from PEX to the hose thread? I basically just talked to the plumbing supplier and explained what I needed so I don't remember sorry :P
Did I miss something or you didn't mention anywhere in the video size of your PEX pipes? Thanks.
The entire system is 1/2", which is the nominal size of the piping.
Thanks, much appreciated.
What is the name of that adapter you used to connect the water hose to? (17:23)...im trying to do the same setup as you. Its a great idea
That timestamp is the end of the video :P so I'm not sure what adapter you're referring to...
What brand and model of water heater did you guys install? I'm having a bit of trouble finding a decent and budget friendly water heater for my tiny house build.
We used this one amzn.to/1MIn8hP which we show in our building series. It's quite pricey, but has been quite good so far, and it was important for us that the open flame be exterior to the house.
Thanks
Have you every played quarterback for the Patriots?
lol
You're not concerned about water freezing in that bit of blue pex hanging under the trailer?
Not too concerned with the climate we are in (Vancouver Island, Can) it doesn't often drop below freezing. That being said it has been getting colder over the winter months so we will probably have to winterize the pipes. Thanks for watching!
I don't understand the loop concept. Best practice is just to size your pipe properly according to expected demand. Typically that means a minimum of 3/4 main line with 1/2" branches. Probably should have put a union in there somewhere also so the regulator can be replaced
+Bike Man Dan I tried to research flow rates in a mathematical fashion, and it seemed like 1/2" could flow multiple times our total demand... but this is our first experience with plumbing so we will definitely be following with how it all works out.
Yeah the regulator should be replaceable by cutting two crimps... which will be a pain... but possible. Can you link the union you're thinking of?
+Tiny Nest 1/2" should do about 10-15gpm given a reasonable input pressure. You may be right an thats sufficient. Just depends on the fixture flow rates and expected simultaneous usage (I doubt you'll have one of those crazy 10gpm shower heads). Unions comes in PVC, galvanized, brass, etc. Could even use a Sharkbite coupler as a union. Heres a PVC example www.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-Streamline-3-4-in-PVC-Pressure-FPT-x-FPT-Union-164-134HC/100211318
+Bike Man Dan Yeah we've thought about the situations where multiple fixtures would ever be on simultaneously and it should be very rare. Plus we will not have any high-flow fixtures.
Ah, thanks for the link to the union :) I will look into adding something like this when the time comes.
You say 1/2 inch. Is that a PEX outer diameter or inner? I think 3/4" PEX OD has 1/2" ID. Thanks.
Yes, I know that the video is 2 years old, but does anyone kmow how the pressure valve is called and where can I buy it maybe over in ebay or something? I would need one with a hole as big as 1 inch.
We like to think of these videos as "evergreen" :D
We actually removed the grey pressure-regulator because it had a slight leak... it seemed like maybe we got really unlucky and it was just a bad unit, but it was also meant for sprinkler/garden systems so it wasn't ideal... I think we'd like to get our own little pressure tank and see if we can regulate our own supply that way.
Tiny Nest Really nice, it probably broke just because it was out of plastic and couldn't stand the pressure, but this reply kind of didn't answer my question! :D
Heh, well we got the thing from our local plumbing supplier... it was the most relevant option they had (other than a huge, heavy, expensive brass regulator that's meant for the main supply line of a full-sized house).
I was wondering why you went with wood instead of a steel frame? It seems to me a steel frame would be easier to put together and more resistant to fire issues as well.
Steel is definitely an interesting option. It can be lighter and stronger, but it's harder for the average person to work with (usually has to come pre-fabricated from a facility) and can bring up thermal-bridging concerns.