I just got into lockpicking 2 days ago and I have already picked 3 different padlocks, including the open shackle version of this Abus 83/45 as of 5mins ago! The knowledge of the pin setup from this video made all of the difference. Thank you!
Destructively speaking, the shackle strength on these vs. cropping is very impressive. Their weakness is twisting attacks. Brilliant locks though! Love ABUS!
@@lockpickinglawyer Hey! I'm having a really difficult time with the Abus 40hb75 with 3" shackle. Any advice? Super noob here and the pin angles are driving me nuts haha
Awesome lock, awesome picking - as usual! I love the way you describe everything as you feel it, between your channel and Bosnian Bill's, I have learned more in a few short months than I did in 20 odd years of fiddling. Thank you.
As previously mentioned by Andrew Williams, the KW10 is the 6 pin kwikset used in their "Titan" models. There are also adapters for Kik cylinders and high security cylinders like Medeco , Mul-T-lock , etc. The 83/80 "The Rock" uses an Oval cylinder (570 Abus cylinder) I believe. These are some of my favorite locks because of their wide variety of styles of options. Thanks for picking them And Showing them LockPickingLawyer! Your skills are amazing!
Thanks for a kind words. A couple notes: 1) the KW10 would not reach the 6th pin stack on this lock. The bitting surface is the same length as a 5 pin key. 2) are you talking about the same adaptor I show in this video, or something different? 3) The 83/80 that they send to the US does not us an oval... see my video 210.
Thanks LPL You can pin the 6th hole with a kw1 by using the tip ramp of the key for the bitting. I've got this with the 300 core (schlage), and it works great. Came from factory zero bitted with spool, spring and cap for 6th pin. These are great locks!
Ah, pin 6 cap? I just got an 83/45 with the zero bitting from factory. What a sweet lock. Is that what the tiny rectangle is in the bag, a cap? I’m assuming the spool and spring are in case you want to use the 6th pin. Thanks for mentioning the pin hole cap, I came to the comments to figure out what it is! Guess I’ll need to disassemble to see how it works. Helps to know what I’m looking for though. Cheers
I hear you there LPL! I was fortunate enough to get the 3x BNIB Lockwood 334C45s for AUD$50, I'm just waiting for them to arrive in the post. If you had more than one of these Abus shrouded shackled locks I would offer a trade, with me sending first of course so you know that i'm being genuine. Next on the list is either that AUD$75 lot of 23 padlocks, mixture of Abus 83s and Lockwood 45s *or* a Federal closed shackle that is nearly 10cm across. It is hard to stay focused on one lock though, I see soooo many that I like, if I were financially endowed I would need an entire shed to house what I would buy... *I would love to have the materials and tools to fabricate entire locks from scratch.*
I just bought one of these to replace a shabby little Master lock my partner put on that was picked on my storage locker and a bicycle and guitar were removed. After seeing this video, now I want to get one of the aforementioned core adaptors that allows for key and knob systems
Lol Iv taught people who have never picked how to do that lock. I just told them to move it up and down moving it back and forth. That's how easy it is 😂 😂 great video
I agree. I was able to buy Kwikset Lab bottom pins for $5.95 on eBay and was able to pin my lock up without paying a locksmith. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142507342113
I had seen the key-retaining bars before being used in certain series. Some of the ABUS locks I have were permanently key-retaining so I had to mill them off in order to get rid of that feature. As some folks probably already know, some of the locks with ball bearings to lock the shackle are pretty tricky to get back together and why some folks do not take them apart. I ended up making a custom tool for retaining one ball while putting in the other and while inserting the core. It all has to be done at the same time to work.
The tool sounds good, they have an actual tool for doing the same thing but it isn't a cheap option. I just do what they do in the factory: A tiny dab of grease on each bearing just prior to fitting makes it stay in its channel for you to put the cam piece back in & has the benefit of providing lubrication for the metal to metal contact. A little goes a long way, you don't need to fill the body of the lock and it doesn't contaminate the lock cylinder. The thing which really got me was putting the cam back into an 83/50 because the spring tension is so great, it took me quite a bit of fiddling to get the spring relocated after I had cleaned the lock, lol.
+theoneandonlyghandi - I didn't know that commercial tools were available, actually didn't even look. Also figures they are expensive since they are specialized. Grease certainly makes sense for factory assembly. The second tool worked well to turn the actuator, not sure how many different springs ABUS uses or why it would be stronger on the 83/50 unless it is considered a higher-end lock.
over here in Australia are 83 series padlocks don't have the spool pins or any security pins. It's just a very flat top pin which makes its very hard to pick still.
I just got one of these Australian Abus 83/45 locks. According the web site I bought it from, it "incorporates the popular 570 6pin style barrel". I believe that means it has a Lockwood 570 core. I opened it up and it has six standard driver pins and six bevelled key pins. I think it is the bevelled pins that make it hard to pick. They remove a lot of feedback. You don't get a distinct click out of them, and they can get over set. I really don't like bevelled keys pins. Anyway, I can pick my lock reliably now, but that was only after I opened it up sussed it out. I didn't have any luck before then.
I did notice that the core was an after market one as were the bottom pins. Compared to Master and other similar locks, these Abus locks are harder. That the 83 series has a removable core that you can change makes this Abus lock as secure as you want it to be.
Might be worth mentioning that if you allow the stopper pin (used to rotate into rekeying position with the pin window) to align with one of the top-pin holes, that core is basically toast, as the stopper pin will spring into a hole and there is no way to compress it. I ended up drilling a hole into the top-pin area to compress the stopper pin and finally got it apart.
I didn't understand what in the lock body, made the lock retain the key, when you flip the Z-bar. Does the Z-bar push something into that side window? Also, if you insert that ball-bearing, what does that do to the key? Does it bypass one pin? Does it bypass all the other pins? And how does it do that? Is there a lever in the lock body that changes what the pin stacks do?
Very nice for the home user. If they know a little bit about locks. I cringed a touch though at the end when you were showing the window and started to pull the plug .
Being able to rekey a lock without dismantling the core is great for people who don't have the skills to place the pins and springs inside the upper half.
Something i learned about this lock is that if you have the black dot down and you ceep turning the key while you pull on the shackel then the shackel will fall of.
Nice. I picked a Schlage one. It was Meh, but it somewhat chewed one of my Luni's. It was best to use a .020 or less on it, which at the time I didn't have. Always cool watching your vid's. Oh, btw, I bought your Genesis set w/ case. (Mostly for the case) The picks are really good- but I thought they were a bit shallow of height. I mean from the bottom of the pick to the top- at least for the Rakes. If is fine in smaller keyways but I had a hard time cantilevering them in SFIC's. Just something to point out.
Construction keying allows a builder to have access to the facility or property while its being constructed, however once the construction is finished and the owner uses the operator key to operate the lock the construction key no longer will work. Its kind of like a one time mastering.
AKJeeper adding onto the other comment, a ball bearing would be inserted in the pinstack lining up with the hole on the core. a key made to line up to that additional sheer line and given to say a contractor or construction crew to do some work. when the standard key is used the bearing would be pushed above the sheer line and when the core is turned to open the lock the ball bearing would fall Into the hole in the core and remain there rendering the contractor key or any copies made of it useless
I've sometimes fantasized about thinning down a T pin small enough to fit into that hole, and using it with a #2 master pin as a driver to make one of these into a trap-key lock. If the new key is 2 depths higher than the old key you want to recover, the old key would be trapped when the T pin fell into the small hole in the plug.
D&D gate locks has access to the right blanks. They are long enough for 6 pins and has the regular bow on them. I'll see if i can find with number they are.
Have one of these with a SC4 keyway I pinned to an existing key I have. Suddenly it stopped working - maybe on the 10th opening. Spent about 30 min trying to pick it and no luck. It’s locked to a (my) storage unit and I’m about to either drill out the core or cut the lock in half. Any suggestions before I ruin the core or the whole lock? (It’s in Chicago if someone wants to make a few bucks picking it for me!)
Nice Video! Quick pick as always! :) The two I have are a 6 pin & lack the window also take a LW5 blank, Makes me wonder what heritage the ones I have here are? (old stock I *think...maybe?) ~ Google Fu time.
The Abus cores are pretty good. Certainly good enough for the lower end of the 83 lineup, like this one. Abus has higher end cores for the higher end locks.
First I want to say I'm a subscriber in a big fan thanks for your videos.. I have a big question.. I just disassembled this same lock and it's very different inside. The front of the bible is etched 3000.. the core does not have the little hole in it for the ball bearing but the shell of the core does have what looks like a mark where maybe it used to be and it wore a scratch into it so maybe the court has been swapped? also I got wafers coming out with the driver pins on 5, 3, 2 and 1.. the driver pins are all the same as what you have. I also happen to have accidentally dropped the first three key pins and mixed them up and some wafers came out with those, which confuses me because the number one hole on the bible should have still been blocked. I don't know how the wafers fell out with the key pins but those are mixed up as well.. I'm not worried about it functioning with a key because I don't have one I just want to pick it will it matter if I mix up the pins? Thanks for your time and any answer you can give me would be appreciated.
On those cylinders, you need to put a little metal slide to cover the top of the last chamber. New locks come with a top pin, spring and the cover slide, so you can pin them through the side window without taking them apart. Spring tension should hold the slide in place, but I use an automatic centerpunch to dimple the center of the slide. I like to be safe when setting up a bunch of them at once, and it saves time in the long run. I get the locks zero-bitted, and I always have to remind myself to add an extra zero length bottom pin to that last chamber before I fill it and fix the slide in place.
@@WahooLee I think I fell afoul off this, just rekeyed an Abus lock cylinder and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't unlock once it set... Finally got the lock apart, though did not manage to pick it. 4 out of 5 pins were one step short. I just got lucky that I was able to effectively bump it with my key while applying a slight tension. Then I did the same in reverse to depin it again and start over. Fixed it and pinned it correctly the next time though. Regarding the 6th pin position, nothing at all in the hole, no spring or follower. I tested by running the small shim feeler from the Covert Companion down through the keyway, and it bottomed out in the top of the body.
Interesting, I thought that you placed the Z-Bar black dot facing up for key retaining mode and take it off for non key retaining. I thought that placing the Z-Bar block dot facing down, inserting the core back into the lock and turning the key would allow you to remove the shackle. I discovered this from this video: ruclips.net/video/iUvwutf7SCY/видео.html Also you can see his other videos showing the Z-Bar being used to remove the shackle.
Hi lpl are you a member of UK locksport? I was wondering if we could organise a trade as the shipping cost for me to order locks from the states is horrific for single locks. I know I'm a random bloke off RUclips so I am more than willing to send you a package first and let you post after mine has arrived What do you think?
Thank you you do good job do you make a mistake doing these I know you're not perfect I want to see your mistake could you please show your mistake so we have to laugh at you please please I know you do a really good job most of the time and I know that you're not perfect Nobody Perfect I love you very much as a friend I learn a lot by just watching you goodbye for now
![[45] Picking the "Unpickable" Abus](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KyTh4nRQ6lQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![[45] Picking the "Unpickable" Abus](/img/tr.png)
![[593] Gallium vs. Titalium - Abus Padlock Meets a Gruesome End](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jeghGhVdt9s/mqdefault.jpg)
It's heartening to see that the locks my work relies on are a relatively solid and user-friendly device. Unlike everything else they buy.
I just got into lockpicking 2 days ago and I have already picked 3 different padlocks, including the open shackle version of this Abus 83/45 as of 5mins ago! The knowledge of the pin setup from this video made all of the difference. Thank you!
like why? So how tf am I supposed to keep thieves away from my fuckin storage if people keep making these types of videos
@@WuTangWax "locks keep honest people honest, nothing more"
Destructively speaking, the shackle strength on these vs. cropping is very impressive. Their weakness is twisting attacks. Brilliant locks though! Love ABUS!
Twisting would be my first thought as well... after picking.
@@lockpickinglawyer The LockPicking scumbag
@@lockpickinglawyer Hey! I'm having a really difficult time with the Abus 40hb75 with 3" shackle. Any advice? Super noob here and the pin angles are driving me nuts haha
@@shadigif8916 mad
Awesome lock, awesome picking - as usual! I love the way you describe everything as you feel it, between your channel and Bosnian Bill's, I have learned more in a few short months than I did in 20 odd years of fiddling.
Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words. RUclips is definitely a graduate school for pickers!
As previously mentioned by Andrew Williams, the KW10 is the 6 pin kwikset used in their "Titan" models. There are also adapters for Kik cylinders and high security cylinders like Medeco , Mul-T-lock , etc. The 83/80 "The Rock" uses an Oval cylinder (570 Abus cylinder) I believe. These are some of my favorite locks because of their wide variety of styles of options.
Thanks for picking them And Showing them LockPickingLawyer! Your skills are amazing!
Thanks for a kind words. A couple notes: 1) the KW10 would not reach the 6th pin stack on this lock. The bitting surface is the same length as a 5 pin key. 2) are you talking about the same adaptor I show in this video, or something different? 3) The 83/80 that they send to the US does not us an oval... see my video 210.
Abus makes some of my favorite locks, thanks for the vid!
Thanks LPL
You can pin the 6th hole with a kw1 by using the tip ramp of the key for the bitting. I've got this with the 300 core (schlage), and it works great. Came from factory zero bitted with spool, spring and cap for 6th pin.
These are great locks!
Ah, pin 6 cap? I just got an 83/45 with the zero bitting from factory. What a sweet lock. Is that what the tiny rectangle is in the bag, a cap? I’m assuming the spool and spring are in case you want to use the 6th pin.
Thanks for mentioning the pin hole cap, I came to the comments to figure out what it is! Guess I’ll need to disassemble to see how it works. Helps to know what I’m looking for though.
Cheers
Always nice to see some closed shackle action :-) thanks
I have an odd attraction to closed shackle locks.
I hear you there LPL! I was fortunate enough to get the 3x BNIB Lockwood 334C45s for AUD$50, I'm just waiting for them to arrive in the post. If you had more than one of these Abus shrouded shackled locks I would offer a trade, with me sending first of course so you know that i'm being genuine.
Next on the list is either that AUD$75 lot of 23 padlocks, mixture of Abus 83s and Lockwood 45s *or* a Federal closed shackle that is nearly 10cm across. It is hard to stay focused on one lock though, I see soooo many that I like, if I were financially endowed I would need an entire shed to house what I would buy...
*I would love to have the materials and tools to fabricate entire locks from scratch.*
@@lockpickinglawyer same here
I just bought one of these to replace a shabby little Master lock my partner put on that was picked on my storage locker and a bicycle and guitar were removed. After seeing this video, now I want to get one of the aforementioned core adaptors that allows for key and knob systems
Lol Iv taught people who have never picked how to do that lock. I just told them to move it up and down moving it back and forth. That's how easy it is 😂 😂 great video
Have to love ABUS great locks. Great picking LPL.
Thanks.
@@lockpickinglawyer how’s your day been?
I like that window that allows you to re-key without dissembling, nice bonus.
Agreed. Very nice feature.
I agree. I was able to buy Kwikset Lab bottom pins for $5.95 on eBay and was able to pin my lock up without paying a locksmith.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142507342113
Very nice range of locks. Thanks for
The video. 👍
My pleasure.
Very nice, who doesn't love a load of spools I just LOVE counter rotation I'm addicted to it.
Spools can be fun!
Always excellent. Very informative video.
The kw5 is a 6 pin blank, there is a dexter blank that will also fit
I had seen the key-retaining bars before being used in certain series. Some of the ABUS locks I have were permanently key-retaining so I had to mill them off in order to get rid of that feature. As some folks probably already know, some of the locks with ball bearings to lock the shackle are pretty tricky to get back together and why some folks do not take them apart. I ended up making a custom tool for retaining one ball while putting in the other and while inserting the core. It all has to be done at the same time to work.
Can you share a link to your tool?
The tool sounds good, they have an actual tool for doing the same thing but it isn't a cheap option.
I just do what they do in the factory: A tiny dab of grease on each bearing just prior to fitting makes it stay in its channel for you to put the cam piece back in & has the benefit of providing lubrication for the metal to metal contact. A little goes a long way, you don't need to fill the body of the lock and it doesn't contaminate the lock cylinder.
The thing which really got me was putting the cam back into an 83/50 because the spring tension is so great, it took me quite a bit of fiddling to get the spring relocated after I had cleaned the lock, lol.
+theoneandonlyghandi - I didn't know that commercial tools were available, actually didn't even look. Also figures they are expensive since they are specialized. Grease certainly makes sense for factory assembly. The second tool worked well to turn the actuator, not sure how many different springs ABUS uses or why it would be stronger on the 83/50 unless it is considered a higher-end lock.
over here in Australia are 83 series padlocks don't have the spool pins or any security pins. It's just a very flat top pin which makes its very hard to pick still.
I just got one of these Australian Abus 83/45 locks. According the web site I bought it from, it "incorporates the popular 570 6pin style barrel". I believe that means it has a Lockwood 570 core. I opened it up and it has six standard driver pins and six bevelled key pins. I think it is the bevelled pins that make it hard to pick. They remove a lot of feedback. You don't get a distinct click out of them, and they can get over set. I really don't like bevelled keys pins. Anyway, I can pick my lock reliably now, but that was only after I opened it up sussed it out. I didn't have any luck before then.
I did notice that the core was an after market one as were the bottom pins.
Compared to Master and other similar locks, these Abus locks are harder. That the 83 series has a removable core that you can change makes this Abus lock as secure as you want it to be.
Might be worth mentioning that if you allow the stopper pin (used to rotate into rekeying position with the pin window) to align with one of the top-pin holes, that core is basically toast, as the stopper pin will spring into a hole and there is no way to compress it. I ended up drilling a hole into the top-pin area to compress the stopper pin and finally got it apart.
I didn't understand what in the lock body, made the lock retain the key, when you flip the Z-bar. Does the Z-bar push something into that side window?
Also, if you insert that ball-bearing, what does that do to the key? Does it bypass one pin? Does it bypass all the other pins? And how does it do that? Is there a lever in the lock body that changes what the pin stacks do?
Very nice for the home user. If they know a little bit about locks. I cringed a touch though at the end when you were showing the window and started to pull the plug .
I did too, but thought it was likely he had already taken it apart.
LOL, I know all about that detent popping into the pin stack!
Being able to rekey a lock without dismantling the core is great for people who don't have the skills to place the pins and springs inside the upper half.
I have an assortment of these, I can't pick them that easy, but they sure are nice to work on.
They are good locks to learn spools on. They teach you not to be sloppy with your tension.
Something i learned about this lock is that if you have the black dot down and you ceep turning the key while you pull on the shackel then the shackel will fall of.
Then you are missing a piece from the inside of the lock that stops over rotation.
To remove the key-retaining feature, you are supposed to leave out the Z bar, not turn it upside down.
That's a nice lock and some great picking again. Cheers :-)
Thanks.
Great job picking as always brother and thanks for the review!
Guys I found it! 404! It's here!
?
I see what you did there
10/10 comment, no notes.
Nice. I picked a Schlage one. It was Meh, but it somewhat chewed one of my Luni's. It was best to use a .020 or less on it, which at the time I didn't have. Always cool watching your vid's. Oh, btw, I bought your Genesis set w/ case. (Mostly for the case) The picks are really good- but I thought they were a bit shallow of height. I mean from the bottom of the pick to the top- at least for the Rakes. If is fine in smaller keyways but I had a hard time cantilevering them in SFIC's. Just something to point out.
dumb question - but what do you mean by using a ball bearing to make a construction key?
Construction keying allows a builder to have access to the facility or property while its being constructed, however once the construction is finished and the owner uses the operator key to operate the lock the construction key no longer will work. Its kind of like a one time mastering.
AKJeeper adding onto the other comment, a ball bearing would be inserted in the pinstack lining up with the hole on the core. a key made to line up to that additional sheer line and given to say a contractor or construction crew to do some work. when the standard key is used the bearing would be pushed above the sheer line and when the core is turned to open the lock the ball bearing would fall Into the hole in the core and remain there rendering the contractor key or any copies made of it useless
See my video #301 for an explanation and demonstration.
I've sometimes fantasized about thinning down a T pin small enough to fit into that hole, and using it with a #2 master pin as a driver to make one of these into a trap-key lock.
If the new key is 2 depths higher than the old key you want to recover, the old key would be trapped when the T pin fell into the small hole in the plug.
the 6 pin KW1s are longer, but only if you measure from the bottom shoulder
Exactly... it would never reach the 6th pin stack on this core.
could cut it on the kw10 blank and then cut the top shoulder back. Might cause issues to use it with a door lock then.
D&D gate locks has access to the right blanks. They are long enough for 6 pins and has the regular bow on them. I'll see if i can find with number they are.
It's the a1176 or KW5 blank.
Dob(?) key and knob cylinder.... would you have been able to pick that type of lock?
Novice here, I raked one and now the key will go in, but not turn at all. Any ideas on what has happened? A fix? Thanks.
Have one of these with a SC4 keyway I pinned to an existing key I have. Suddenly it stopped working - maybe on the 10th opening. Spent about 30 min trying to pick it and no luck. It’s locked to a (my) storage unit and I’m about to either drill out the core or cut the lock in half.
Any suggestions before I ruin the core or the whole lock?
(It’s in Chicago if someone wants to make a few bucks picking it for me!)
That screw looks small, is it vulnerable to core pulling?
Nice Video! Quick pick as always! :) The two I have are a 6 pin & lack the window also take a LW5 blank, Makes me wonder what heritage the ones I have here are? (old stock I *think...maybe?) ~ Google Fu time.
I have at least one with a LW5 keyway... Not that old IIRC.
Apologies for the wording of the above question, Curious as too why there is a window in some 83CS/45's and not others?...puzzling that's all.
I put a schlage everrest with security pins in my 83Al/45. How well built are cores for these locks made.
The Abus cores are pretty good. Certainly good enough for the lower end of the 83 lineup, like this one. Abus has higher end cores for the higher end locks.
Kwikset titan fits kw1 keyway and is a 6 pin blank.
Any links/info to that Dom core set up please?
more great stuff man!
Thanks.
What tools are you using on this? I'm having way too much trouble compared to how yours went.
i think that's a peterson's short hook in 0.025
First I want to say I'm a subscriber in a big fan thanks for your videos.. I have a big question.. I just disassembled this same lock and it's very different inside. The front of the bible is etched 3000.. the core does not have the little hole in it for the ball bearing but the shell of the core does have what looks like a mark where maybe it used to be and it wore a scratch into it so maybe the court has been swapped? also I got wafers coming out with the driver pins on 5, 3, 2 and 1.. the driver pins are all the same as what you have. I also happen to have accidentally dropped the first three key pins and mixed them up and some wafers came out with those, which confuses me because the number one hole on the bible should have still been blocked. I don't know how the wafers fell out with the key pins but those are mixed up as well.. I'm not worried about it functioning with a key because I don't have one I just want to pick it will it matter if I mix up the pins? Thanks for your time and any answer you can give me would be appreciated.
So this wouldnt be a good lock to learn to pick ??
Kw5 is the 6 pin
Who makes that tension wrench,I really could use one
Larry G 《 Thumper 》 pretty sure it's just a heated and bent prybar. haven't heard anyone making them commercially.
That is correct... a normal Peterson tool that I heated and bent.
I really like this lock and all of its features but can you make it more secure?
MIG..........
yes box it in
Have this brand at my work.
Well, you could put a 6th pin on the tip of the key. It´s some added delay at least.
I could, and have done it before.
On those cylinders, you need to put a little metal slide to cover the top of the last chamber. New locks come with a top pin, spring and the cover slide, so you can pin them through the side window without taking them apart. Spring tension should hold the slide in place, but I use an automatic centerpunch to dimple the center of the slide. I like to be safe when setting up a bunch of them at once, and it saves time in the long run. I get the locks zero-bitted, and I always have to remind myself to add an extra zero length bottom pin to that last chamber before I fill it and fix the slide in place.
@@WahooLee I think I fell afoul off this, just rekeyed an Abus lock cylinder and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't unlock once it set...
Finally got the lock apart, though did not manage to pick it.
4 out of 5 pins were one step short. I just got lucky that I was able to effectively bump it with my key while applying a slight tension. Then I did the same in reverse to depin it again and start over. Fixed it and pinned it correctly the next time though.
Regarding the 6th pin position, nothing at all in the hole, no spring or follower. I tested by running the small shim feeler from the Covert Companion down through the keyway, and it bottomed out in the top of the body.
The best lock is wealth. Live in an expensive gated community and you will experience almost no crime.
or just become an assassin
Interesting, I thought that you placed the Z-Bar black dot facing up for key retaining mode and take it off for non key retaining. I thought that placing the Z-Bar block dot facing down, inserting the core back into the lock and turning the key would allow you to remove the shackle. I discovered this from this video: ruclips.net/video/iUvwutf7SCY/видео.html Also you can see his other videos showing the Z-Bar being used to remove the shackle.
That's exactly what I do... if I said something difference, it was unintentional.
Hi. What is a good pick for these locks?
depends on the core and bidding, try a thick short hook by default and than switch out if needed.
damn this video encountered an error
The kw10 is a 6 pin
But with bitting surface the same length. It would never reach to the 6th pin slot on this core.
Hi lpl are you a member of UK locksport?
I was wondering if we could organise a trade as the shipping cost for me to order locks from the states is horrific for single locks.
I know I'm a random bloke off RUclips so I am more than willing to send you a package first and let you post after mine has arrived
What do you think?
I am on UKlocksport, but don't go there often. As for a trade, shoot me an email (look in "about" tab for my address).
Did that lock come to you 0 bitted
No... keyed by the reseller, I think.
Where is the video number one ☝️
My blue titalium 83AL/45 takes a seven pin snowman core..
The abus 83/45 that my work uses is "anti pick" how would I bypass that one with regular picking sets?
I have a rotasera coming in one
Thank you you do good job do you make a mistake doing these I know you're not perfect I want to see your mistake could you please show your mistake so we have to laugh at you please please I know you do a really good job most of the time and I know that you're not perfect Nobody Perfect I love you very much as a friend I learn a lot by just watching you goodbye for now