I love it when you give us a tour of wiring diagrams and then demonstrate practical troubleshooting steps. You convey this information in a very clear, systematic fashion that even my puny brain can grasp and I appreciate your taking those extra pains to do so.
I feel the same way. I just recently found this channel. I hate it though he is going to get me fired. At work I try to go in a watch a video real quick and I end up watching 10 videos. I’m not joking my boss said if he catches me again I’m outta here.
I found a lot of these cars with this problem and in most cases they need some resoldering inside the abs ecu. Nice watching you. Sorry for my bad English
Nice, smooth, and logical process. I have the same issue with my 2007 Rabbit and I am grateful for your help in troubleshooting this issue. BTW there are other options besides buying a new part. There are companies out there that will fix and return the faulty ABS to you by mail. This way you don't have to reprogram anything. Again thanks!
Do not run the engine with straight water too long. Temperature of boiling for straight water is too low. You are a very good mechanic. You have always car that are trashed, and you solve it each time properly! Thanks for the video!
You know that race cars run straight water because the antifreeze is to slippery and can cause hazardous situations? You are correct the boiling point of coolant is way higher than the boiling point of water but the Carson be running more than 190° anyway so if it is doing that you have a way bigger problem than your boiling point being 30° lower....
Hey Eric ! I just got my THINKTOOL PRO! I purchased on Amazon from Ediag and that seller is awesome! Good customer service and support! I have had my tool for about 3 weeks. I love my THINKTOOL PRO! PRO LEVEL SCAN TOOL! GOD BLESS YOU ERIC!
very good video....next time you have a no com issue, hook up the scope, I would like to see how this pattern looked when connected to the faulty module 👍
Wow that's expensive in the US. In UK or EU these are used around $30-60 and programming services would be around $40 for 1h labor it takes 5min to program it. Hit me up if your friend wants to fix it for cheaper I can supply you parts new or used from the UK and ship to you.
When dealing with these VW's (and Audi's), first thing to check is the coolant lever sender plug - unplug the connector from the coolant reservoir and look inside. If you see ANY signs of coolant, the coolant makes its way into the wiring; this requires - at minimum, replacing the electrical wiring harness - worst case, it gets into all the modules and the PCM and prevents the car from running. The fact that you also have a LOW COOLANT light in the dash makes me suspect this is the case. Old coolant reservoirs - when it gets all cloudy - are suspect of leaking through the coolant level sensor even more so. If you want to do a more thorough scan of the electronics, you need to get a VAGCOM simulator - this is hands-down the best diag comm program for the VW / Audi platform.
I have the ThinkDiag dongle the G1-TPMS tool, this tool saved my ass in different occasions. My Ford had a DPFE SENSOR upstream plugged or open. Sure enough, the tube came undone so I cut the dry rotted end then attached it with a hose clamp. Clear code Now engine runs smoothly.
Erick, enjoy your channel. I am not a mechanic or diagnostician but am learning and have learned much from your channel. Don't know if this wii help but.... Had exact same problem with an 01 Lincoln Town Car. Intermittent loss if speedo
Intermittent loss if speedo, abs,traction control, etc. Dash lit up like a Xmas tree. No comm with abs module. Started with powers, grounds, fuses all ok. Checked ohms at wheel speed sensor connectors all ok. Next step I was planning was to jack up vehicle spin each wheel and see if it was generating voltage (2 wire connector, uses magnet to tone ring on axle to make voltage. I think it's called a passive system rather than an electronic system that has its own voltage. Before I did, saw a vid suggesting power washing the back of the wheel as crud can get in there and interfere with wheel speed sensor and tone ring reading. Tried it. It worked. Everything having to do with wheel rotation, abs, cruise, traction, speedo,odom, dash info center is now working fine and problem has not returned. Hope this helps someone.
I have a question is it possible to relocate the module by cutting the harnesses that go to the module and add wire to each anevery one of those wires I don't think it would be expensive to relocate it
Yes we did expet to see full repair but the video is still very good and usefull, and the customer decision is quiet expected. So, great video as always...
Jetta is the sedan. Golf is a hatchback. But for one generation VW called it the rabbit. Which is what they also called it in the beginning in the 1970s in the United States only
Thank you for such a thorough video. You explained exactly the issue I'm faced with. I'm hoping my doesn't turn out to need the module replaced but either way thanks alot! Super helpful!!
Great video again.. I've found another common failure point with VW modules is their PCB via's are really poorly plated through and are prone to corrosion. As the boards are multi layer it makes repair almost impossible, not only are there hundreds of via's, although the bad ones are easily spotted, there is no reliable way to ensure through connection repair. i've tried many different techniques with a low level of success (I've done decades of board level repairs). The corrosion is likely from moisture being drawn in when the vehicle is switched off in a damp or cold environment, the high operating temperature causes an exaggerated contraction of air inside the unit which despite having a high IP rating still allows outside air to be drawn in as it cools, and this occurs in a cycling effect over time. VAG module via's are also not conformal coated inside the duct so corrosion is guaranteed, and the plating thickness is only measured in nanometres... so they are pretty well guaranteed to fail. The modules are a pretty well balanced vehicle life limiter along with all the plastic engine internals that fail in the 150k+ range, or multi mass flywheel, trans etc.. really they are junk cars.
🧐so I just sold an 08 rabbit CEPA swap that had 264000 on the BGP 5cyl. Before we put the TT RS 5cyl turbo motor in it. That was my 14th VW.... Ironically the only one I ever had that was a real shitbox was an 08 Touareg that was meant to be sold in Europe. 4 MKII jettas, a MKIII a B3 a B5 a scirocco, a corrado, the treggy, a CC, a Dasher, and a 68 type 3 notchback. They're really not any different than anything else everything has its issues. But everyone I ever owned I put over 200,000 mi on it the worst one I think probably was an 87 rabbit convertible that the bottom of the windshield leaked so when it rained your feet got wet... They're still way nicer way better mechanically and way more comfortable that about 95% of American cars .. which are either a made in Mexico (Chrysler) be made in Canada (Chevrolet) or c Mazdas (Ford)... And the bodies last way longer. It's way easier to change a piece of electronics and it is to change a quarter panel or rocker panel and everything electronics in them is either Bosch or VDO... I think you've just encountered cars that weren't taking care of
Great video and Thanks for sharing. My hope is Think Tool will send you a scope so you can give us a full and proper review on both at once on a problem vehicle. I already have a Think Diag and like the capabilities of it. Would consider more products. Thanks again.
Golf and Rabbit are basically interchangeable. The original name for the platform was Rabbit. Then VW changed it to Golf only to bring back the Rabbit name for the MK5 and then drop it again for the MK6/7. In Canada here, we call them Golf.
The Mk5 Golf, in Canada and the US only, switched to the Rabbit model name, reverting to Golf from Mk6 onwards (and sadly not being offered as of the Mk8 except in GTI and R form). The model year in which each mark is introduced here is generally two years behind the European introduction.
Just a note on speedometer issue: In the first scan u had code p0501 for VSS performance which didn't come back after the erase and 2nd scan, I think because u did't do a 2nd test drive. Another thing is the abs w.diagram only shows 4 Abs sensors and no VSS which tell me that maybe it is connected directly to the ECM leading eventually to only replacing the VSS and not the entire ABS module. Though I am not really sure there is a VSS in the first place.
Hey I would love to see you use the coding on the thinktool preferably on a bmw f30 😄 I've got the mini and I can not work it out I've purchased the software for the bmw also 😀
Green "foot" light on dash is telling you to press foot brake before you can engage drive. Yellow TCS & steering wheel light will show if you have a flat battery, the system self calibrates after approx 15 seconds of driving and they should go out.
Just a fyi there is a recall for the abs module for mk5 ( possibly early mk6's ) jetta's / GTI's and whatever vw that uses this same module abs controller. i had the same symptoms and got it changed out for free by the vw dealer. just something to look up for anybody with these issues. Recall was issued in 2017 and can be looked up with your VIN.
Hello this is VW golf 5 and I think all the lights on the dash because of dead battery because those car are too sensitive . And the Tachometer don’t work because of a defect Abs wheel sensor
I would first put a new battery in it so that way I would know all the computer modules are getting the right voltage then I would say all the codes then clear all of them then see which ones come back
If you want to hear a funny story about a VW Golf then read on. I'll try to keep this short. I just needed a vehicle for a month until a pal had found me a replacement so I bought a Golf for £50. Yes that is correct, £50. It was a rust bucket but it ran. I never exceed 40mph because it would crab around corners, maybe the back wheels were about to fall off! Only two of the electric windows worked, the drivers and one of the rear windows, no problemo! In fact one of the rear windows was wedged a piece of wood. So one winters day I went to town and parked at the ferry terminal, when I got back it was dark and windy. As I unlocked the car all four windows opened, WTF! And just as I got in there was a horizontal hail storm. It is usually windy here. Hail the size of peas were bouncing off my head :( I managed to get three windows shut and drove home with the other one open, it was a cold journey. I found out (thanks Google!) that if you turn the key in the door lock the wrong way for over one second it will open all the windows. Who the hell thought that this was a good feature! And how the heck did the non-functioning windows open? For those who are wondering how I could drive such a vehicle, there are no police here. There are small advantages for living in the middle of nowhere. Edit: I almost forgot. I said to the local freight guy that we could split the scrap value 50/50. He got £70 so I got £35. That car cost me £15 for a months driving, now that's what call a bargain!
I would've gotten fresh battery before digging in due to how picky modern cars are with wonky voltage ⚡ issues and looked at related grounds esp near battery
My ears perked up when you said battery always dies. You might have a charging problem I bet the alternator is on it’s way out and that’s probably effecting other modals in the car probably why every lights on
Owned 3 VW's, never had either issue. Currently driving a Passat for 4+ years with no issues. We get proper VW's in Europe made in Germany, not the crap Mexican made ones the US gets.
@@andrewlaw yea USA ones are bad most of time I get in one the seat won’t move or master switch doesn’t work or horn doesn’t work , USA gets the junk ones
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I love it when you give us a tour of wiring diagrams and then demonstrate practical troubleshooting steps. You convey this information in a very clear, systematic fashion that even my puny brain can grasp and I appreciate your taking those extra pains to do so.
I feel the same way. I just recently found this channel. I hate it though he is going to get me fired. At work I try to go in a watch a video real quick and I end up watching 10 videos. I’m not joking my boss said if he catches me again I’m outta here.
@@Flowtester1 You gotta keep that shit on the down-low, man.
This is exactly what happened to mine after been of road for 18 months! A new battery and a good run to get the abs pump working, solved it!
I found a lot of these cars with this problem and in most cases they need some resoldering inside the abs ecu. Nice watching you. Sorry for my bad English
Don't worry about your English! It's fine!
I don't mind that I didn't see the repair, I really came by to see the diag anyway. Good job!
Have had success taken the abs control module apart and resolder the terminals
That’s what happens when you have a BIG Dongle 😁
That’s what she said
Put it in 😝
Nice, smooth, and logical process. I have the same issue with my 2007 Rabbit and I am grateful for your help in troubleshooting this issue. BTW there are other options besides buying a new part. There are companies out there that will fix and return the faulty ABS to you by mail. This way you don't have to reprogram anything. Again thanks!
Do not run the engine with straight water too long. Temperature of boiling for straight water is too low.
You are a very good mechanic. You have always car that are trashed, and you solve it each time properly!
Thanks for the video!
You know that race cars run straight water because the antifreeze is to slippery and can cause hazardous situations? You are correct the boiling point of coolant is way higher than the boiling point of water but the Carson be running more than 190° anyway so if it is doing that you have a way bigger problem than your boiling point being 30° lower....
Hey Eric ! I just got my THINKTOOL PRO! I purchased on Amazon from Ediag and that seller is awesome! Good customer service and support! I have had my tool for about 3 weeks. I love my THINKTOOL PRO! PRO LEVEL SCAN TOOL! GOD BLESS YOU ERIC!
It’s definitely the best scan tool that anyone has sent me to review. So far I love it. Thanks for watching!
cant wait for scanner review see what it all can do seems to be pretty quick
very good video....next time you have a no com issue, hook up the scope, I would like to see how this pattern looked when connected to the faulty module 👍
Wow that's expensive in the US. In UK or EU these are used around $30-60 and programming services would be around $40 for 1h labor it takes 5min to program it. Hit me up if your friend wants to fix it for cheaper I can supply you parts new or used from the UK and ship to you.
VW is one of the more expensive brands for parts and service in North America
Right that’s what I’m saying
@@HamBown not anymore lol
i need you in my life rn
When dealing with these VW's (and Audi's), first thing to check is the coolant lever sender plug - unplug the connector from the coolant reservoir and look inside. If you see ANY signs of coolant, the coolant makes its way into the wiring; this requires - at minimum, replacing the electrical wiring harness - worst case, it gets into all the modules and the PCM and prevents the car from running. The fact that you also have a LOW COOLANT light in the dash makes me suspect this is the case. Old coolant reservoirs - when it gets all cloudy - are suspect of leaking through the coolant level sensor even more so. If you want to do a more thorough scan of the electronics, you need to get a VAGCOM simulator - this is hands-down the best diag comm program for the VW / Audi platform.
The coolant level has nothing to do with this issue and coolant still looked low after he added some. It's a bad ABS module.
I have the ThinkDiag dongle the G1-TPMS tool, this tool saved my ass in different occasions. My Ford had a DPFE SENSOR upstream plugged or open. Sure enough, the tube came undone so I cut the dry rotted end then attached it with a hose clamp. Clear code Now engine runs smoothly.
Hello, you should check the drain where the wiper motor is. I know on passat 2003 i think it was the ecu is there.
You need to become a teacher! Such knowledge! A good school should pay well! There would be some lucky students!
When you said the car had been sitting for 2 years, had all those warnings lights, my first thought was rodent damage to a harness.
Great video Eric! Thank you! Please consider programming videos.
Brother, I have watched your video for a long time and learned a lot from your video love you Eric Bro And make videos like this
Eric, AWESOME logic step by step test you went through for ur viewer really appreciate ur effort brother cheeeeeeeeers.
Hello Eric from South Africa!
I got the Thinktool Pro last week,works real fast
Missed u Eric, glad to see you, and yes I was able to follow along, you are such an awesome teacher!!!
Would have been great to see you sort it out but would have been expensive,keep up the great work
Erick, enjoy your channel. I am not a mechanic or diagnostician but am learning and have learned much from your channel. Don't know if this wii help but.... Had exact same problem with an 01 Lincoln Town Car.
Intermittent loss if speedo
Intermittent loss if speedo, abs,traction control, etc. Dash lit up like a Xmas tree. No comm with abs module. Started with powers, grounds, fuses all ok. Checked ohms at wheel speed sensor connectors all ok. Next step I was planning was to jack up vehicle spin each wheel and see if it was generating voltage (2 wire connector, uses magnet to tone ring on axle to make voltage. I think it's called a passive system rather than an electronic system that has its own voltage. Before I did, saw a vid suggesting power washing the back of the wheel as crud can get in there and interfere with wheel speed sensor and tone ring reading. Tried it. It worked. Everything having to do with wheel rotation, abs, cruise, traction, speedo,odom, dash info center is now working fine and problem has not returned. Hope this helps someone.
@@andrewkeen5135 Cool stuff, Thanks a lot.
Bro I have the same car with same problems.u are awesome.i will do diagnosed tomorrow.
I have a question is it possible to relocate the module by cutting the harnesses that go to the module and add wire to each anevery one of those wires I don't think it would be expensive to relocate it
Yes we did expet to see full repair but the video is still very good and usefull, and the customer decision is quiet expected. So, great video as always...
Jetta is the sedan. Golf is a hatchback. But for one generation VW called it the rabbit. Which is what they also called it in the beginning in the 1970s in the United States only
Thank you for such a thorough video. You explained exactly the issue I'm faced with. I'm hoping my doesn't turn out to need the module replaced but either way thanks alot! Super helpful!!
Big up from morocco ❤️
This model is called Golf in the european market
We have both here one the states! Rabbit being a slightly cheaper model!
Golf, Rabbit, GTI, take your pick. They are variations of the same platform and have changed a few times between generations.
Great video again.. I've found another common failure point with VW modules is their PCB via's are really poorly plated through and are prone to corrosion. As the boards are multi layer it makes repair almost impossible, not only are there hundreds of via's, although the bad ones are easily spotted, there is no reliable way to ensure through connection repair. i've tried many different techniques with a low level of success (I've done decades of board level repairs). The corrosion is likely from moisture being drawn in when the vehicle is switched off in a damp or cold environment, the high operating temperature causes an exaggerated contraction of air inside the unit which despite having a high IP rating still allows outside air to be drawn in as it cools, and this occurs in a cycling effect over time. VAG module via's are also not conformal coated inside the duct so corrosion is guaranteed, and the plating thickness is only measured in nanometres... so they are pretty well guaranteed to fail.
The modules are a pretty well balanced vehicle life limiter along with all the plastic engine internals that fail in the 150k+ range, or multi mass flywheel, trans etc.. really they are junk cars.
🧐so I just sold an 08 rabbit CEPA swap that had 264000 on the BGP 5cyl. Before we put the TT RS 5cyl turbo motor in it. That was my 14th VW.... Ironically the only one I ever had that was a real shitbox was an 08 Touareg that was meant to be sold in Europe. 4 MKII jettas, a MKIII a B3 a B5 a scirocco, a corrado, the treggy, a CC, a Dasher, and a 68 type 3 notchback. They're really not any different than anything else everything has its issues. But everyone I ever owned I put over 200,000 mi on it the worst one I think probably was an 87 rabbit convertible that the bottom of the windshield leaked so when it rained your feet got wet... They're still way nicer way better mechanically and way more comfortable that about 95% of American cars .. which are either a made in Mexico (Chrysler) be made in Canada (Chevrolet) or c Mazdas (Ford)... And the bodies last way longer. It's way easier to change a piece of electronics and it is to change a quarter panel or rocker panel and everything electronics in them is either Bosch or VDO... I think you've just encountered cars that weren't taking care of
Great video and Thanks for sharing.
My hope is Think Tool will send you a scope so you can give us a full and proper review on both at once on a problem vehicle.
I already have a Think Diag and like the capabilities of it. Would consider more products.
Thanks again.
Got the ThinkDiag thanks to you, works really good. Big upgrade from my delphi ds150 clone.
Love all the advancements in the auto industry that they still tuck everything under the engine 🤔
Golf and Rabbit are basically interchangeable. The original name for the platform was Rabbit. Then VW changed it to Golf only to bring back the Rabbit name for the MK5 and then drop it again for the MK6/7. In Canada here, we call them Golf.
In the rest of the world it's a Golf and always has been. The original MKI Golf had a gear knob shaped like a golf ball including the dimples.
@@andrewlaw You are wrong. I had both. It's more often than not a Golf, but it hasn't always been that way.
The Mk5 Golf, in Canada and the US only, switched to the Rabbit model name, reverting to Golf from Mk6 onwards (and sadly not being offered as of the Mk8 except in GTI and R form). The model year in which each mark is introduced here is generally two years behind the European introduction.
The 2.5 is an in-line five cylinder.
Thank you for the information it does help a lot I guess is ok to use the powerprove for the can lines. You give a good idea.
SO glad I got rid of my GTI when it was still new.
Great video !!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for sharing!
Just a note on speedometer issue:
In the first scan u had code p0501 for VSS performance which didn't come back after the erase and 2nd scan, I think because u did't do a 2nd test drive.
Another thing is the abs w.diagram only shows 4 Abs sensors and no VSS which tell me that maybe it is connected directly to the ECM leading eventually to only replacing the VSS and not the entire ABS module.
Though I am not really sure there is a VSS in the first place.
I look forward to seeing your videos great job
So if replacing this module would it fix the speedometer?
Well done my friend. Sam
Always good info.!!
Always enjoy your troubleshooting methods, great video!
Is it possible to move or relocate the module away from the exhaust manifold so that the problem doesn’t happen again?
No it is not. No room under the hoods as it is and specific brackets in place. Its not possible to redecorate things under the hood like that
a have tthe same broblem en my radio a have tse e dead its for tse broblem?
Will it still pass the state inspection?
Hey I would love to see you use the coding on the thinktool preferably on a bmw f30 😄 I've got the mini and I can not work it out I've purchased the software for the bmw also 😀
Appreciate the video as always bro.
Green "foot" light on dash is telling you to press foot brake before you can engage drive. Yellow TCS & steering wheel light will show if you have a flat battery, the system self calibrates after approx 15 seconds of driving and they should go out.
Cool stuff, Thanks a lot.
Great video thank you I learned a lot .
I really like the way you explain.
I already buy the think tool and is Amazing I really recommended it 100% .
Just a fyi there is a recall for the abs module for mk5 ( possibly early mk6's ) jetta's / GTI's and whatever vw that uses this same module abs controller. i had the same symptoms and got it changed out for free by the vw dealer. just something to look up for anybody with these issues. Recall was issued in 2017 and can be looked up with your VIN.
How can I reach you I tried to call the shop there's no answer
Reminds me of the launch. Nice tool👍
Hello this is VW golf 5 and I think all the lights on the dash because of dead battery because those car are too sensitive . And the Tachometer don’t work because of a defect Abs wheel sensor
Speedometer not tachometer. Tach doesn’t have anything to do with wheel speed, tach gets info from crank sensor
great video im learning alot from your channel thanks keep safe
Very useful information as always.thanks alot
Based on VW's reputation this is totally normal. I suggest you keep driving and not worry about the warning lights as they are an added feature.
I would first put a new battery in it so that way I would know all the computer modules are getting the right voltage then I would say all the codes then clear all of them then see which ones come back
If you want to hear a funny story about a VW Golf then read on. I'll try to keep this short.
I just needed a vehicle for a month until a pal had found me a replacement so I bought a Golf for £50. Yes that is correct, £50. It was a rust bucket but it ran. I never exceed 40mph because it would crab around corners, maybe the back wheels were about to fall off! Only two of the electric windows worked, the drivers and one of the rear windows, no problemo! In fact one of the rear windows was wedged a piece of wood. So one winters day I went to town and parked at the ferry terminal, when I got back it was dark and windy.
As I unlocked the car all four windows opened, WTF! And just as I got in there was a horizontal hail storm. It is usually windy here. Hail the size of peas were bouncing off my head :( I managed to get three windows shut and drove home with the other one open, it was a cold journey. I found out (thanks Google!) that if you turn the key in the door lock the wrong way for over one second it will open all the windows. Who the hell thought that this was a good feature! And how the heck did the non-functioning windows open?
For those who are wondering how I could drive such a vehicle, there are no police here. There are small advantages for living in the middle of nowhere.
Edit: I almost forgot. I said to the local freight guy that we could split the scrap value 50/50. He got £70 so I got £35. That car cost me £15 for a months driving, now that's what call a bargain!
Ignition switch ?
Wonderful and smart video
Nice video bro.
Great video. Got to love power probe
How much for the vw?
Great video , thank you
I would've gotten fresh battery before digging in due to how picky modern cars are with wonky voltage ⚡ issues and looked at related grounds esp near battery
My ears perked up when you said battery always dies. You might have a charging problem I bet the alternator is on it’s way out and that’s probably effecting other modals in the car probably why every lights on
Thanks for the upload 💪
That was the 12volt obd2 to 24v obd2 adaptor look for yhe gap in the blade divider
It just needs you are screwed light on, that car is screaming in distress
My guess is it's a bad fuse or ground caused by water shorting something out or B the battery killed it.
Very informative 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
These vehicles have recall on brake control module
Is the after market light, didn't wire them right
That DIY wiring job at 14:30 is pretty suspect
good video
Vw always have that problem most people just drive the car with speedometer not working and coolant light on
Owned 3 VW's, never had either issue. Currently driving a Passat for 4+ years with no issues. We get proper VW's in Europe made in Germany, not the crap Mexican made ones the US gets.
@@andrewlaw yea USA ones are bad most of time I get in one the seat won’t move or master switch doesn’t work or horn doesn’t work , USA gets the junk ones
in Portugal that is a VW Golf Mk5
Thanks Eric
Yooo hello from indonesia 😁
Background Note: Your tires flat..
Get a battery and check actual voltage at fuse
Thank you
Good job
Good stuff.
Why are they using straight water that's a sure way to blow the gasket.
The manual says when all the lights on the dash are lit it's time to clean your car!
Funny wife used to own a VW bug and the dashboard had all the lights lit up like xmas tree.
Damn i think i bought that car. Mjne is a rabbit that in a all lit up too!
I don't think that you can reprogram a used module on any VW.
The best diag tool in the world and cannot code an 2007 abs pomp. I’ll Think if it worths my money.
Done, nope.
Grand Master "E"
Diag baby👌
It's a 5 cylinder brother
This is nice scan tool because I pay 17 thousand dollars for the snapon ZEUS AND Y NOT WORKING LIKE THIS SCANNER
Bravo