Well u think this guy is totally reliable. But if was no hydro witch we r getting closer. Letting all off these Russian killing people so we took 5 million
Dang bro, I know this is basic knowledge for a mechanic but as you said the shop could not fix it, and they threw unnecessary parts at it. You are truly an awesome mechanic!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
I’m a mechanic and when I got paid hourly I’d figure this stuff out how ever time it took me. I’m flare rate now n I’d pass up on this job. To time consuming with minimal pay. I send these jobs to hourly paid tech’s lol
Awesome video, I'm a locksmith by trade, the red light in the cluster top right is the security light, it is supposed to turn off if you have full communication and the security system is up to par. Solid light means fault in computer system, flashing light means key problem.
My mechanic would have just told me you need a new computer and just slapped it in there without doing the test and then tell me later well we put in a new computer and we found a faulty wire as well. you are very thorough. You help me to believe in mechanics again.
Phenomenal job tackling a diagnostic issue. Whoever changed the starter was obviously not experienced, starter relay jump would of cranked. I’ve been diagnosing cars just off sheer knowledge and process of elimination, voltmeter and a light tester. Now we have great scan tools and the power probe to assist the main tool, your wisdom and experience. Again excellent job.
On these older Chrysler vehicles you can hold down the trip button on the cluster and turn the key to the run position. It will do a check and all the gauge needles will do a sweep
Yup. Definitely an instrument cluster problem! Only other test I would have checked to see if the scan tool had shown RPM. That way you have a record that the PCM is sending the information to the IPC which shows the tach is bad. Other than that, very good diagnosis, good call on the PCM and overall, very good fix Eric!
I looked at a lot of mechanics on RUclips and you are by far the best automotive technician I've ever seen, I'm definitely looking forward to looking at more videos from you, I like how thorough you are... Keep up the good work! 👍🏾
I LIKED THE WAY YOU DIAGNOSED TO FIND OUT POSSIBLE PROBLEMS AND EVEN WENT FURTHER WHEN THE TACOMETER WAS NOT WORKING . GREAT JOB . KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING
Great video. Training on using Power Probe, "scope on a rope", 5V reference, power and grounds, restoring communications all in one video. I'm definitely going to be adding this to my saved videos.
i know it ended up being a pcm issue. and just alittle tip for the future. ive been burned on these older dodges, the asd relay has a power feed that goes to the pcm and also the alternator. I had a van that had repeat pcm failures. We all know about chrysler pcm problems. but still, either way the asd relay is controlled by the pcm, and supplies power to the fuel pump, injectors, sometimes the trans relay, and the alternator. The pcm also uses that power in its wake up process. So what im trying to say is dont forget to check the asd power supply to the pcm, ive seen where the driver in the pcm fails not turning on the asd, and ive also seen where the alternator has a partial short in the field circuit causing a 5-10amp draw on that power feed..which usually melts the circuit board. It can cause repeat pcm failures, and be overlooked until the alternator finally fails completely. Just wanted to throw that in. Great job on the diag, its always nice to see a tech that understands how to LOAD test a power and ground. Fewer and fewer people understand this basic concept, i love the power probe but i still use my test light to double check also. What ever shop couldnt fix this, obviously cant be bothered to check for a crank signal at the starter before replacing it. Thats crazy
@@darrylt1031automatic shut down, the relay that shuts off the engine in a crash event or rollover. Fuel Injection allows an engine to keep running even if inverted after a crash, unlike a carburetor which would shut off the fuel, as the bowl float relies on gravity.
This is a SBEC-3 ECM. Communication is a common failure with Chrys PCMs - Pwer failure (SBEC, JTEC, NGC, GPEC, etc . . . ) I’ve written test programs, and we have great repairs in place. Btw: that was a Cardone PCMs👍🏾. Unlike many Reman Co, Cardone aval their modules functionally 100%. Sent yours in for 48hr repairs (R&R). Or get a replacement over the counter. Eric, Nice video as always.
I like your honest approach to attempt to find the problem with the rpm gauge. I also try to anticipate a customers request when informing them of additional issues. On my part, at least I will have an idea for a potential repair and cost. Thoroughness. An admirable quality. Also as you mentioned , customers don't always inform us of additional problems hoping everything will be solved when we make the repair. They just want it fixed. Love your content and approach. Keep wrenching!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I have a 2006 town & country that had the same problem but mine was a much easier fix, I cleaned the battery terminals replaced the connectors, and put on a new ground strap and it started up. You have a new subscriber. Thanks for showing us how it is done.
Great diagnostic methodology. Your video reminds me of a lady who had her Jeep Butchered by five different mechanic shops. She had a Failure to communicate problem similar to the problem you had in this video. I'm a Engineer and specialize in Automotive Diagnostics. She said she wishes she would have met me sooner, before her Jeep was electrically butchered.
Very good video. I had a 2003 Grand Caravan 3.3L with the same issue with computer. I sent it off to a repair shop I found on Ebay with the Vin # and current miles on odometer. Came back repaired. As for the trim over the gage , it would dry and crack from the sunlight. You could move the light bulb board like he did on the video. Never had any real issues with the engine, transmission and ac unit. At 186k miles she ran good but had some rust spots throughout the body.
Hey Eric, Pearland here. Looks like you were over by Hobby?? Great methodical diagnosis. That’s why I really enjoy and learn from your techniques. Peace
That happened to my town & country and my mechanic put the negative and positive battery cables together for 2 minutes and then reconnected them and the van started right up. He said it's a thing with all Chrysler Town & Countries from all years....that this is voodoo science but it works.
20:40, that solid red dot on the top right corner lit and went away after a few seconds, so that must be the security light lol. Good call on the computer and the checks on the possible shorted sensors bringing the computer down, that's an extra step that most techs may ignore to save time but could be a costly misdiagnosis.
Great video as always! It was thorough and right to the point. Where I work, many electricians never bother to look at the schematics when troubleshooting a circuit. They just change parts until it gets fixed or not. My Dad being an Old School diesel mechanic always told me “One has to be smarter than the tool” Meaning, use the tools and manuals accordingly and they will guide you to the root cause.
when you done a gauge sweep all but tacho went full tacho only half way seems like one of coils faulty or dirty connection nothing to do with what you were there for fo fix that is a second diag fee as fault shown on sweep keep up the good work eric hope you enjoyed the concert
As I say amd many others agree he is not a mechanic but a technician which is a difference. I also refer myself as a tech cuz I don’t like guessing but testing no matter how big or small a job I want almost 💯% certainty. Awesome work always brother .
Great diagnosis. Isolated ECM with problem, checked base power supplies, checked ignition present, all feeds checked with test lamp to simulate load, checked 5Volt output connected and disconnected at sensors. Maybe 5V ref wire short, checked for ground with test lamp no short to ground. Why did it go who knows old age, some one shorted it or reversed polarity it and not telling. Well done for not wasting hours and following through in a logical manner. Still makes you sweat when you order an ECU though.😀
You have taken us through the best procedure step by step tackling the issue The issue with the rpm gauge if I would have seen the scan tool reading the signal from the ecm autright close the case clock is faulty
found this channel by accident. good content, there are a few short cuts you could have taken but it wouldnt have explained how to deep check everything attached to a single system, Very informative for newer techs ^^ very glad you went into the depth you did.
Greetings: About the same tests I would run. I saw the teach right away prior the sweep test. I figured defective. The PCM is no surprise. Mopar junk notorious 4 that. I have heard they have a programmed software time bomb. However it is not time based, it is mileage. Good show mate.
Always learn something new from these videos. I'm not a car mechanic but on an old car like this I would be tempted to put a 5v psu for the ref line, not sure if it would work but cheaper if it did. I love a good bodge 🙂
You are spot on with your procedures and your diagnosis. However in my experience with these pcm parts, 90% of the time they are repairable. On the main power inputs there are 5 watt general purpose rectifier diodes that are sacrificial in nature. They protect the pcm from voltage spikes and they will either short or open . I suspect that the unit you diagnosed in your video had open power clamp rectifier diodes. When they open ... You have a dead pcm. They are simple to solder in and out and you can buy a bag of 20 for about $8. When they short ... The damage can mover further into the pcm and can damage the EPROM. When the EPROM is damaged I generally replace the pcm. Generally it is harder to open the pcm then is to repair them, and having said all of this, you can save a lot of time and money just doing a check on these rectifiers.
@@W.Khairi Yes they are easy to find. Usually near the wiring harness plug in port. 5 watt diodes are easy to identify, and generally easy to solder. Inside the ECU there will be a buck power supply sending tightly regulated current and voltage to the logic I. C.'s Google 5 watt diodes and look at the examples. When replacing them be very sure which end the small silver band is on, and insert the replacement part with the band facing the same direction. That is critical. These diodes are easy to check with a standard volt ohm meter. Some even offer a diode check function.
That was great and very helpful! Anything that helps me out. I've worked on Asian cars most of my career and now back into American side of it so there's it is. Thanks.
I really appreciate how thorough you are with your diagnostics. You check any and everything that could possibly be wrong and exact the proper repairs to satisfy your customers. Also I’m glad you go the ‘extra mile’ when it comes to being alert to obvious prior attempts to’fix’ things by customer before they bring it to you! In this day and age it’s just as crucial to ‘. C Y A
reminds me of an intermittent issue I had with a 96 grand caravan years ago. Crank, run for 1-2 seconds, then die. In frustration I beat on the dash top and got it going, then drove 100+ miles home. Was ok for a week then did it again.... fixed the same way. Finally did it again 100 miles from home about a month later and a shop said there was a can-buss error, but it started every time so took it home. Researched that error and every post talked about dash cluster issues. My son had a similar car with dash warning light issues, and mentioned a post where guys talked about poor solder joints within the cluster. Apparently, the error was causing the anti-theft to kill the fuel pump. I put the dash on the bench and manually went over every solder joint. Never had another problem. Had the car another 7 years after that and finally junked it at 23 years old for other problems. (mostly rust)
excellent work! this is how u fix the problem correctly! U r a technician not a back yard mechanic would like u to replace the head gaskets on this type of van thank you again
Dang, I wished you lived near me for some diagnosis on my duramax. Can't trust anyone in Amarillo. I enjoy all your vids. So dang honest and you KNOW YOUR STUFF!!
I have a '99 Town & Country that I had the exact same problem with. Disconnecting and reconnecting the PCM fixed it. There was no corrosion and the connections were tight before I disconnected them.
Great job!! Still yet to find a reputable auto repair shop in St.petersburg (Pinellas County) that actually diagnoses problems instead of parts changing.
One nice trick to run the car is I would supply a manual constant 5v DC externally and yeah the car will RUN again! Rather than replacing the entire PCM.
You know if you turn that key 3 times to power and power off the third time it'll pop up the codes on the dash for u. Also with these vans like some cars with low low oil or no oil that van will do that with no start. Great Work and nice video 👍
Great video.... You definitely know your stuff. The only thing I'm curious about is that if you want to educate your viewers. I say that because it was an extremely fast diag. If this video is for techs, great. If it's for the common viewer, it's too fast with not enough explanations......Great video.
The Injector wiring harness will fuse together fry the computer. Pull the wires apart to inspect on the fuel injector wiring harness this year was known for that.
Please help. I have full power/ No crank and everything on this diagnostic video on ny van tests good , but still no crank and check engine light.myself am a mechanic and very picky and only trust a few mechanics to work on ny vehicles besides me. I would definitely trust this guy!! Not only does he know his stuff, he is a very good teacher. Not alot of people can explain things like he can. Most mechanics have lots of knowledge and diagnostic gears turning in there head but can't always explain the process as good, they just know what to do, great diagnostic video but in my case im still stuck on whether it's a pcm or not
I can't find wire schematics. If i pull starter relay i can make starter crank with jump wire and all other terminals check ok except for 85 at relay which goes to pcm, i dont know if it powers or grounds, i ohmed all wires and all good, however i noticed my AIS motor was hot when checking the tps and it makes a loud click and re-engages when i hook back up. OH, Also my van was clicking with key on from injectors and when turning key off still clicked and when i checked my 5 o reference for a millisecond it had no power then it clicked and injectors stopped clicking and then 5 o reference gave me power
Love the diagnostic channels... I'm a mechanic myself and you always want to see how others do it. So far very nice👍, another thing I always do is comment to the video before it's finished with my own diagnosis, wondering if I am thinking in the right direction. I was looking at the new battery and thinking about a diag from years back,another Chrysler product. This was a jeep Cherokee and the battery also sat right beside the pcm... The problem ended up being corrosive particles coming from the battery and arcing out across the pcm connection...just saying it's a possibility!🤷🏼♂️
From Great Britain excellent work I'm happy you are very honest man and believe me there's not a lot around good job well done thumbs up and I have pressed describe
I've been an automotive tech for 35 years and I believe you did a great job. Fast and accurate and also explained every step. Great job young man.
I need a pcm for a 2005 pt 5 speed convertible non turbo
Well u think this guy is totally reliable. But if was no hydro witch we r getting closer. Letting all off these Russian killing people so we took 5 million
you are great
good job man
@@TYTHONGDETH cc
Dang bro, I know this is basic knowledge for a mechanic but as you said the shop could not fix it, and they threw unnecessary parts at it. You are truly an awesome mechanic!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
Eric is definitely a good dude!👑
I’m a mechanic and when I got paid hourly I’d figure this stuff out how ever time it took me. I’m flare rate now n I’d pass up on this job. To time consuming with minimal pay. I send these jobs to hourly paid tech’s lol
FYKCZF
@@streetstyle9200 makes sense honestly
Awesome video, I'm a locksmith by trade, the red light in the cluster top right is the security light, it is supposed to turn off if you have full communication and the security system is up to par. Solid light means fault in computer system, flashing light means key problem.
Yessir about to say that flashing red is not good
I mean solid I had that problem and it was pcm
My mechanic would have just told me you need a new computer and just slapped it in there without doing the test and then tell me later well we put in a new computer and we found a faulty wire as well. you are very thorough. You help me to believe in mechanics again.
This guy is very patient in all his videos. Even shows his mistakes with the TPS. That's why I enjoy his videos. Great job Eric
The only mistake here was a dumb sucker buying a Town and Country turdmobile!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Phenomenal job tackling a diagnostic issue. Whoever changed the starter was obviously not experienced, starter relay jump would of cranked. I’ve been diagnosing cars just off sheer knowledge and process of elimination, voltmeter and a light tester. Now we have great scan tools and the power probe to assist the main tool, your wisdom and experience. Again excellent job.
I'm just a backyard mechanic who works on my own cars. I find your videos super interesting and educational. Thanks a million.
On these older Chrysler vehicles you can hold down the trip button on the cluster and turn the key to the run position. It will do a check and all the gauge needles will do a sweep
Yup. Definitely an instrument cluster problem! Only other test I would have checked to see if the scan tool had shown RPM. That way you have a record that the PCM is sending the information to the IPC which shows the tach is bad.
Other than that, very good diagnosis, good call on the PCM and overall, very good fix Eric!
what is IPC?
You’re a great teacher. I had all the steps right from beginning to 02:18. Your training is working!
Nicely done brother. Always enjoy watching another diagnostic technicians process.
I looked at a lot of mechanics on RUclips and you are by far the best automotive technician I've ever seen, I'm definitely looking forward to looking at more videos from you, I like how thorough you are... Keep up the good work! 👍🏾
I LIKED THE WAY YOU DIAGNOSED TO FIND OUT POSSIBLE PROBLEMS AND EVEN WENT FURTHER WHEN THE TACOMETER WAS NOT WORKING . GREAT JOB . KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING
I really enjoy watching a pro do their thing. Taking care of business, very nice.
Eric deserves to hit 100k subscribers...hes been creating quality content with good explanations for a long time now.
Thank you 🙏
Great video. Training on using Power Probe, "scope on a rope", 5V reference, power and grounds, restoring communications all in one video. I'm definitely going to be adding this to my saved videos.
He forgot the MAP sensor. The red light at the top right corner went off with the new ECU. Awesome video, thank you.
i know it ended up being a pcm issue. and just alittle tip for the future. ive been burned on these older dodges, the asd relay has a power feed that goes to the pcm and also the alternator. I had a van that had repeat pcm failures. We all know about chrysler pcm problems. but still, either way the asd relay is controlled by the pcm, and supplies power to the fuel pump, injectors, sometimes the trans relay, and the alternator. The pcm also uses that power in its wake up process. So what im trying to say is dont forget to check the asd power supply to the pcm, ive seen where the driver in the pcm fails not turning on the asd, and ive also seen where the alternator has a partial short in the field circuit causing a 5-10amp draw on that power feed..which usually melts the circuit board. It can cause repeat pcm failures, and be overlooked until the alternator finally fails completely. Just wanted to throw that in. Great job on the diag, its always nice to see a tech that understands how to LOAD test a power and ground. Fewer and fewer people understand this basic concept, i love the power probe but i still use my test light to double check also. What ever shop couldnt fix this, obviously cant be bothered to check for a crank signal at the starter before replacing it. Thats crazy
what does ASD stand for?
@@darrylt1031automatic shut down, the relay that shuts off the engine in a crash event or rollover. Fuel Injection allows an engine to keep running even if inverted after a crash, unlike a carburetor which would shut off the fuel, as the bowl float relies on gravity.
This is a SBEC-3 ECM. Communication is a common failure with Chrys PCMs - Pwer failure (SBEC, JTEC, NGC, GPEC, etc . . . ) I’ve written test programs, and we have great repairs in place. Btw: that was a Cardone PCMs👍🏾. Unlike many Reman Co, Cardone aval their modules functionally 100%. Sent yours in for 48hr repairs (R&R). Or get a replacement over the counter.
Eric, Nice video as always.
Very nice. Exactly how it should be done. No communication with the PCM? You check power, grounds, and 5V reference. Good work!!!
I like your honest approach to attempt to find the problem with the rpm gauge. I also try to anticipate a customers request when informing them of additional issues. On my part, at least I will have an idea for a potential repair and cost. Thoroughness. An admirable quality. Also as you mentioned , customers don't always inform us of additional problems hoping everything will be solved when we make the repair. They just want it fixed. Love your content and approach. Keep wrenching!
By far the best educational videos on RUclips. Keep them coming. Where do I find wiring diagrams like what your using??
Alldata
BBB INDUSTRIES, Mitchell and many others but I prefer Mitchell and/or Alldata.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I have a 2006 town & country that had the same problem but mine was a much easier fix, I cleaned the battery terminals replaced the connectors, and put on a new ground strap and it started up. You have a new subscriber. Thanks for showing us how it is done.
you were so on point about telling the customer about the tach. ive dealt with that before.
Great diagnostic methodology. Your video reminds me of a lady who had her Jeep Butchered by five different mechanic shops. She had a Failure to communicate problem similar to the problem you had in this video. I'm a Engineer and specialize in Automotive Diagnostics. She said she wishes she would have met me sooner, before her Jeep was electrically butchered.
👍 Just noticed Red 🔴 dot on instrument cluster went away with new ECM it seems it was security light . Good diagnosis process 👍
Very good video.
I had a 2003 Grand Caravan 3.3L with the same issue with computer. I sent it off to a repair shop I found on Ebay with the Vin # and current miles on odometer. Came back repaired.
As for the trim over the gage , it would dry and crack from the sunlight. You could move the light bulb board like he did on the video.
Never had any real issues with the engine, transmission and ac unit. At 186k miles she ran good but had some rust spots throughout the body.
Hey Eric, Pearland here. Looks like you were over by Hobby?? Great methodical diagnosis. That’s why I really enjoy and learn from your techniques. Peace
That happened to my town & country and my mechanic put the negative and positive battery cables together for 2 minutes and then reconnected them and the van started right up. He said it's a thing with all Chrysler Town & Countries from all years....that this is voodoo science but it works.
As always, very useful and helpful video. Thank you. Every time I watch your videos I learn something new.
Electricity is so beautiful especially if you understand and respect it. Awesome video sir.
20:40, that solid red dot on the top right corner lit and went away after a few seconds, so that must be the security light lol. Good call on the computer and the checks on the possible shorted sensors bringing the computer down, that's an extra step that most techs may ignore to save time but could be a costly misdiagnosis.
Great video as always! It was thorough and right to the point. Where I work, many electricians never bother to look at the schematics when troubleshooting a circuit. They just change parts until it gets fixed or not. My Dad being an Old School diesel mechanic always told me “One has to be smarter than the tool” Meaning, use the tools and manuals accordingly and they will guide you to the root cause.
when you done a gauge sweep all but tacho went full tacho only half way seems like one of coils faulty or dirty connection nothing to do with what you were there for fo fix that is a second diag fee as fault shown on sweep keep up the good work eric hope you enjoyed the concert
As I say amd many others agree he is not a mechanic but a technician which is a difference. I also refer myself as a tech cuz I don’t like guessing but testing no matter how big or small a job I want almost 💯% certainty. Awesome work always brother .
Great diagnosis. Isolated ECM with problem, checked base power supplies, checked ignition present, all feeds checked with test lamp to simulate load, checked 5Volt output connected and disconnected at sensors. Maybe 5V ref wire short, checked for ground with test lamp no short to ground. Why did it go who knows old age, some one shorted it or reversed polarity it and not telling. Well done for not wasting hours and following through in a logical manner. Still makes you sweat when you order an ECU though.😀
Great work, I had the same problem with a 2013 Kia Soul, I did the same tests you did replaced the ECU and she started right up
You have taken us through the best procedure step by step tackling the issue
The issue with the rpm gauge if I would have seen the scan tool reading the signal from the ecm autright close the case clock is faulty
found this channel by accident. good content, there are a few short cuts you could have taken but it wouldnt have explained how to deep check everything attached to a single system, Very informative for newer techs ^^ very glad you went into the depth you did.
Greetings: About the same tests I would run. I saw the teach right away prior the sweep test. I figured defective. The PCM is no surprise. Mopar junk notorious 4 that. I have heard they have a programmed software time bomb. However it is not time based, it is mileage. Good show mate.
Thanks for taking us to the trouble shooting steps, my mom has a similar van back home!
ERIC, AWESOME approach always learning from the best thanks for sharing.
Great job Eric, I hope the customer appreciated u spent extra time diagnosing the tach.
I love learning from u , I’m learning electrical on car and I think you’re the best
I learned different problem on car evrytime i watch the utube. Thanks!
Always learn something new from these videos. I'm not a car mechanic but on an old car like this I would be tempted to put a 5v psu for the ref line, not sure if it would work but cheaper if it did. I love a good bodge 🙂
Good idea
Very enjoyable video. That's an awful symptom and a problem that won't fix by accident.
Nice...
you are a very professional mechanic
You are spot on with your procedures and your diagnosis. However in my experience with these pcm parts, 90% of the time they are repairable. On the main power inputs there are 5 watt general purpose rectifier diodes that are sacrificial in nature. They protect the pcm from voltage spikes and they will either short or open . I suspect that the unit you diagnosed in your video had open power clamp rectifier diodes. When they open ... You have a dead pcm. They are simple to solder in and out and you can buy a bag of 20 for about $8. When they short ... The damage can mover further into the pcm and can damage the EPROM. When the EPROM is damaged I generally replace the pcm. Generally it is harder to open the pcm then is to repair them, and having said all of this, you can save a lot of time and money just doing a check on these rectifiers.
Very cool, Any idea how can we identify those rectifier diodes?
@@W.Khairi Yes they are easy to find. Usually near the wiring harness plug in port. 5 watt diodes are easy to identify, and generally easy to solder. Inside the ECU there will be a buck power supply sending tightly regulated current and voltage to the logic I. C.'s Google 5 watt diodes and look at the examples. When replacing them be very sure which end the small silver band is on, and insert the replacement part with the band facing the same direction. That is critical. These diodes are easy to check with a standard volt ohm meter. Some even offer a diode check function.
@@markcondrey2297 I will try to check on them next time, Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain.
very interesting , you really know a bunch about electrical
Eres muy inteligente mi hermano gracias por tu video
The real mechanics. We know how important that beep is . We dont mind . Thank you for the knowledge.
Excellent! People like you make the worlda little better everyday 🤙🇺🇸💯
That was great and very helpful! Anything that helps me out. I've worked on Asian cars most of my career and now back into American side of it so there's it is. Thanks.
I really appreciate how thorough you are with your diagnostics. You check any and everything that could possibly be wrong and exact the proper repairs to satisfy your customers. Also I’m glad you go the ‘extra mile’ when it comes to being alert to obvious prior attempts to’fix’ things by customer before they bring it to you! In this day and age it’s just as crucial to ‘. C Y A
Solid bro. Perfect execution.
Ur rite customers can be dishonest.
Thats why I'm picky on who's car I work on.
Wow well done you definitely know your stuff I can see the customer is happy there car is up and running 👍
My Brother, you are very good mechanic. America need many more mechanics Just like you. You think about have your online school.
Yes you are the man. Good job brother. Also good video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. God bless.yes you are right once again.
reminds me of an intermittent issue I had with a 96 grand caravan years ago. Crank, run for 1-2 seconds, then die. In frustration I beat on the dash top and got it going, then drove 100+ miles home. Was ok for a week then did it again.... fixed the same way. Finally did it again 100 miles from home about a month later and a shop said there was a can-buss error, but it started every time so took it home. Researched that error and every post talked about dash cluster issues. My son had a similar car with dash warning light issues, and mentioned a post where guys talked about poor solder joints within the cluster. Apparently, the error was causing the anti-theft to kill the fuel pump. I put the dash on the bench and manually went over every solder joint. Never had another problem. Had the car another 7 years after that and finally junked it at 23 years old for other problems. (mostly rust)
excellent work! this is how u fix the problem correctly! U r a technician not a back yard mechanic would like u to replace the head gaskets on this type of van thank you again
Dang, I wished you lived near me for some diagnosis on my duramax. Can't trust anyone in Amarillo. I enjoy all your vids. So dang honest and you KNOW YOUR STUFF!!
I have a '99 Town & Country that I had the exact same problem with. Disconnecting and reconnecting the PCM fixed it. There was no corrosion and the connections were tight before I disconnected them.
Really thorough diagnosis and explanation.
Thanks dude lovely from Tanzania 🇹🇿 ❤️ ❤️
Well presented, informative and entertaining. I’m so glad I found your channel!
Dude great content very educational and truly professional. HONEST AND SMART MECANIC.
Brother, that is troubleshooting 100%
Awesome video.
That’s a cool process for checking short to ground .
Great job!! Still yet to find a reputable auto repair shop in St.petersburg (Pinellas County) that actually diagnoses problems instead of parts changing.
Have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT . Video was suggested . Glad I watched ,, was very informational and we'll explained . 👍 , ✌️ .
One nice trick to run the car is I would supply a manual constant 5v DC externally and yeah the car will RUN again!
Rather than replacing the entire PCM.
the best RUclips channel, everything very well explained
Thanks for sharing your knowledge........you are the best
Really good video. I bet you had your heart in your throat upon first start up because computer failure is very rare.
great diagnosis. If you find later the problem with the tachometer, update :)
Great video and to the point with out all the crap on other people's videos .thank you
GREAT JOB 👏🏻 And relentless too 😄
Watching all your videos. Awesome presentation!
Eric thanks for sharing. And yes it was all of the above. Hope all is well with you and family 😊 Artie
You know if you turn that key 3 times to power and power off the third time it'll pop up the codes on the dash for u. Also with these vans like some cars with low low oil or no oil that van will do that with no start. Great Work and nice video 👍
Very good job explaining the process.
Wonderful video Dude.................you covered it ALL Dude !
ti ll try everything you show here. that's a lot. a good helper. thanks again
Great video. Thank you. You are obviously very smart.
You did a good job and make it look easy
Good 👍 teaching and good explaining , thanks for your time and video 🙏✌🏼
Great video.... You definitely know your stuff. The only thing I'm curious about is that if you want to educate your viewers. I say that because it was an extremely fast diag. If this video is for techs, great. If it's for the common viewer, it's too fast with not enough explanations......Great video.
Nice work diagnosing the faulty PCM. Bit of a booboo on not plugging in the TPS.
The Injector wiring harness will fuse together fry the computer. Pull the wires apart to inspect on the fuel injector wiring harness this year was known for that.
Please help. I have full power/ No crank and everything on this diagnostic video on ny van tests good , but still no crank and check engine light.myself am a mechanic and very picky and only trust a few mechanics to work on ny vehicles besides me. I would definitely trust this guy!! Not only does he know his stuff, he is a very good teacher. Not alot of people can explain things like he can. Most mechanics have lots of knowledge and diagnostic gears turning in there head but can't always explain the process as good, they just know what to do, great diagnostic video but in my case im still stuck on whether it's a pcm or not
I can't find wire schematics. If i pull starter relay i can make starter crank with jump wire and all other terminals check ok except for 85 at relay which goes to pcm, i dont know if it powers or grounds, i ohmed all wires and all good, however i noticed my AIS motor was hot when checking the tps and it makes a loud click and re-engages when i hook back up. OH, Also my van was clicking with key on from injectors and when turning key off still clicked and when i checked my 5 o reference for a millisecond it had no power then it clicked and injectors stopped clicking and then 5 o reference gave me power
wow you are awsome buddy .. bet the customer was happy
Great video. I love that you provided all the details. Definitely worth subscibing.
Top notch as usual !!!. Thanks for sharing.
We missed you ☺️
Your videos are always interesting and contain many good tips and ideas. You exhibetted a number of cool tests. Thanks very much!
Hi bro,
I love your content so much.
Do you know what Is the best device to program the keys???
Thank you
Love the diagnostic channels... I'm a mechanic myself and you always want to see how others do it.
So far very nice👍, another thing I always do is comment to the video before it's finished with my own diagnosis, wondering if I am thinking in the right direction.
I was looking at the new battery and thinking about a diag from years back,another Chrysler product. This was a jeep Cherokee and the battery also sat right beside the pcm... The problem ended up being corrosive particles coming from the battery and arcing out across the pcm connection...just saying it's a possibility!🤷🏼♂️
Yeah and somebody may have taken a shit inside the PCM as well.... just saying, it's a possibility.
Well... wasn't the case this time, girlfriend.
@@moshesheckel7369 ???
@@scottjeans6184 just a tard who got access to youtube dont mind him.
From Great Britain excellent work I'm happy you are very honest man and believe me there's not a lot around good job well done thumbs up and I have pressed describe
This video is a keeper and has been saved.
The reason for me is the quick logical conclusions ;)