I had a shop teacher in my HS days (early '90s) that I still talk to that was a dyed in the wool Ford flathead, A&T guy that learned from his dad. His daily driver was a Ford GPW (Jeep) with a warmed up 239" 21 stud flathead hooked to a Saginaw 5spd that I helped him machine an adaptor for in his home shop. It's STILL his main transportation! These are the guys like the fella in the video that need to be chronicled. Because their knowledge goes with them when they pass, then it's back to square one, lol. Thanks to my shop teacher, Pantelis "Peabrain" Safarian for teaching me the basics and not so basics that led to a life of time misspent getting greasy, angry, discombobulated, dumbfounded and having fun doing so. And I even learned a few Greek curse words along the way, lol.
I've built hundreds of circle track and racing engines and I've been very successful thankfully but I'll never be as good as Ed. These guys grew up in an era were they machined their own parts and tools. There wasn't near as many aftermarket parts back in the day. It's so cool to watch him work, He's as sharp as a tack.
Wow... I could pick this gentleman's brain for days, You don't find people with his skill set anymore. He could make an elaphant fly with a roll of ducktape and some shrubbery !
Back in the early 90's i was lightly involved in a stroker 400 mopar. From memory , it used 440 crank, 428 ford pistons and bbc rods. There was alot of side clearance on the rids and that worried me a bit but it worked. Somewhere around 470ci. Back then we made power, now you buy it.
I had a Chevy Vega with a pretty hot 327 from a corvette. Built myself a 12.5 second quarter mile car for 10,000 and all my labor. Like you said, now they just drop a wad of money. Where is the satisfaction in that?
No way that would work. Ford 428 pistons are only 4.13 bore. Stock 400 Mopar is 4.34. However, a stock Ford 429 or 460 is 4.36. I'm sure that 429 pistons are what you're thinking of.
LOL "that's number 18" LOL love it. someone should give him a Willy's Jeep flathead to hop up. there is a lot of things to do to that engine to pump it up.
@@eweunkettles8207Cdi ignition will work better than old bosch magneto and will also work with no battery, cdi module will be easy to hide since it is about the size of cigarette pack. Using cdi ignition from a smaller cc motorcycle or scooter might be a good idea. Also i understand its easier for you to say old stuff is "better than any fangled new electronic bs" than admitting that you dont understand how work with modern stuff but it does not change the fact that modern ignition systems are at least as reliable as the old stuff not to mention they give much stronger spark.
@@Dymitr_Nawrocki lots of historic racing cars still use magnetos the higher the rpm the better the spark unlike points whose primary gets less time to charge the faster it runs the only modern bit i use is wima o.22 uf capacitors i have no desire to use cdi yes i do know how it works with a high voltage primary and very small ht coil but have you studied magnetos in detail ? i know nothing as im a simple ameteur armature winder
The rods are going to hit the oil pan on the sides too. Heat the area with a torch and knock a lump outward to provide clearance. This is required for a stock Model A crank to T conversion.
Love seeing different builds. But the wrist pen is supposed to rotate in the rod not the pistons with a floating rod and wrist pen set up and when you are letting it float on the rod and piston you should have a c- clip in the pistons so the wrist pen doesn't come out to far and make contact with the cylinder wall. I have seen similar setups with the wrist pins press fit into the piston or the rod but normally not both.. why does it matter well the aluminum pistons if you are spinning the wrist pen because you have it locked to the rod the aluminum piston is going to wear way more than if it is spinning in the rod end since it has a bearing or bushing of some sort of is hardened and is harder and will wear less over time compared to the aluminum pistons.. the best set up in my opinion is float the wrist pen in the rod and not the piston. I'm not saying that it should be a press fit into the piston..it should be able to be put in by hand and then cut a Grove for c-clips in the pistons... not saying what you have done won't work just a different way and like you said it's only turning 2000rpm 's
I have a Model A which I put 1,500 miles a year on it. I try to keep it as stock as possible so when it breaks I can get repair parts without modifying them. “Hello NAPA? I need a connecting rod…”
That man was probably born with a can do attitude. First thing some people do is start thinking of the reasons that they can't do something, I've never understood that way of thinking. It's unproductive.
@@jameslockard4827 oh interesting I had a model TT And 5 spare engines and I gave away But I’m always interested in modifications people do on multi engines case I get excited and decide to get another engine rebuild it
GOOD GOD thats a lot of work .., I think an external oil pump would be better, even a simple plunger pump and external lines wouldn't be as much 'trouble' Pete Aardema and Kevin Braun ... THERE are out of the box thinkers
I respect my elders but i feel like im watching those guys from Pakistan I thought when you utilize parts from newer models one takes advantage of things learned over history not to mention when better is also easier its pretty foolish not to follow that path ignition gee lets complicate things by adding a distributor hmm maybe 60 year old outboard motor components or maybe some briggs and stratton pieces or keeping with the automotive theme 2 gm hei modules 2 double lead motorcycle coils and a couple of ford pickup coils file a few strategically located slots in whatever ya got thats round and spins with the crank and voila your own solid state ign
Further detail: The first Chevy with pressurized oiling system was the 1953 235 with Powerglide. The 1953 Chevy with manual transmission was still splash oiling with dipper rods and Babbitt. @@BarryTsGarage
This makes almost no sense. The only way to get power from this engines is to install Frontenac heads or others like Rajo etc. Sidevalves are shitvalves!
I thought he was going to jump through the camera when he was talking and jerking his head up lol jk great video these gentlemen are very skilled wish I had half the knowledge these guys have heck they probably forgotten more than I know now lol thanks for sharing
I had a shop teacher in my HS days (early '90s) that I still talk to that was a dyed in the wool Ford flathead, A&T guy that learned from his dad. His daily driver was a Ford GPW (Jeep) with a warmed up 239" 21 stud flathead hooked to a Saginaw 5spd that I helped him machine an adaptor for in his home shop. It's STILL his main transportation! These are the guys like the fella in the video that need to be chronicled. Because their knowledge goes with them when they pass, then it's back to square one, lol. Thanks to my shop teacher, Pantelis "Peabrain" Safarian for teaching me the basics and not so basics that led to a life of time misspent getting greasy, angry, discombobulated, dumbfounded and having fun doing so. And I even learned a few Greek curse words along the way, lol.
We make all kinds of oddball custom billet rods at Crower Cams in San Diego CA, if you need a set made.
Sounds like you would make a good sponsor… 😜
This guy illustrates how America is so special....we are tinkers!... remember....Henry was a tinker.😂
This guy is what hot rodding is about. So much to learn.
if you can't learn from this man you never will. I can listen to him all day 👍
Thank you for your generous and sincere compliment, I will pass it on to Ed!
I hope we get to hear it run. Thanks.
Ed Tech 💪🏻😎👍🏻thanks
You bet 👍
So he 9" centre is going into the T to hold all that stroker power!!
I would be making a pressurised oil system
I've built hundreds of circle track and racing engines and I've been very successful thankfully but I'll never be as good as Ed. These guys grew up in an era were they machined their own parts and tools. There wasn't near as many aftermarket parts back in the day. It's so cool to watch him work, He's as sharp as a tack.
Thanks Brad yes, he is Sharp! Thank you. I will pass that on to Ed. Have a great day!
Good that you canfindparts❤❤😂🎉🎉🎉🎉
Cool old-school work. Would've used nylon buttons to locate piston pins though. Pin would be a true floater.
Cool idea
LOOKING FORWARD TO SEE THST RUNNING ED YOUNG MAN
I hope to be able to show it running, certainly will do that if I can! Thank you
Wow... I could pick this gentleman's brain for days, You don't find people with his skill set anymore. He could make an elaphant fly with a roll of ducktape and some shrubbery !
Such a wealth of knowledge!
This man is a OG master record all you can because knowledge of this caliber dies with his generation. Respect on athe next level
Thank you I will pass that on to Ed
Back in the early 90's i was lightly involved in a stroker 400 mopar. From memory , it used 440 crank, 428 ford pistons and bbc rods. There was alot of side clearance on the rids and that worried me a bit but it worked. Somewhere around 470ci. Back then we made power, now you buy it.
I had a Chevy Vega with a pretty hot 327 from a corvette. Built myself a 12.5 second quarter mile car for 10,000 and all my labor. Like you said, now they just drop a wad of money. Where is the satisfaction in that?
No way that would work. Ford 428 pistons are only 4.13 bore. Stock 400 Mopar is 4.34. However, a stock Ford 429 or 460 is 4.36. I'm sure that 429 pistons are what you're thinking of.
Pure genius!
Just stumbled across your channel, this being my 3rd video. All I can say is wow, and thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
LOL "that's number 18" LOL love it.
someone should give him a Willy's Jeep flathead to hop up. there is a lot of things to do to that engine to pump it up.
Great idea!
@@BarryTsGarage . yeeha, it's Compression Ratio is like 7 to 1.
I'd love to see it run!
If there’s a way to capture that I will!
Awesome technique !!!
It would be nice if you could have used posi- locks and/or Teflon buttons on the wrist pins, I used them on my sbc builds when using floating rods.
You can put a modern spark system on it useing crank position censor style ignition them turbo turner guys can get you going
I think a consideration would be keeping the engine bay looking original, I wonder if there’s a way to do that covertly…?
@@BarryTsGarage not sure about hiding though I would think possible some really brainy guys on u tube I look now before I start anything.
put a good old bosch magneto on it that will fire better than any fangled new electronic bs
and no battery reqd manual ad / ret ignition too
@@eweunkettles8207Cdi ignition will work better than old bosch magneto and will also work with no battery, cdi module will be easy to hide since it is about the size of cigarette pack. Using cdi ignition from a smaller cc motorcycle or scooter might be a good idea. Also i understand its easier for you to say old stuff is "better than any fangled new electronic bs" than admitting that you dont understand how work with modern stuff but it does not change the fact that modern ignition systems are at least as reliable as the old stuff not to mention they give much stronger spark.
@@Dymitr_Nawrocki
lots of historic racing cars still use magnetos the higher the rpm the better the spark unlike points whose primary gets less time to charge the faster it runs
the only modern bit i use is wima o.22 uf capacitors
i have no desire to use cdi
yes i do know how it works with a high voltage primary and very small ht coil
but have you studied magnetos in detail ? i know nothing as im a simple ameteur armature winder
The rods are going to hit the oil pan on the sides too. Heat the area with a torch and knock a lump outward to provide clearance. This is required for a stock Model A crank to T conversion.
Thanks- I’ll try to check with Ed to suggest or learn his plan 👍
3.810 bore x 4.250 stroke = 193.82 cubic inches.
0:32 Some people talk with their hands, this man talks with his chin and you better listen up because he’s talking fact’s
Oid dudes rule young dudes drool❤
This man’s forgot more than I’ve learned
You got to have the driveshaft go in the hole 😳😆
Amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
Love seeing different builds. But the wrist pen is supposed to rotate in the rod not the pistons with a floating rod and wrist pen set up and when you are letting it float on the rod and piston you should have a c- clip in the pistons so the wrist pen doesn't come out to far and make contact with the cylinder wall. I have seen similar setups with the wrist pins press fit into the piston or the rod but normally not both.. why does it matter well the aluminum pistons if you are spinning the wrist pen because you have it locked to the rod the aluminum piston is going to wear way more than if it is spinning in the rod end since it has a bearing or bushing of some sort of is hardened and is harder and will wear less over time compared to the aluminum pistons.. the best set up in my opinion is float the wrist pen in the rod and not the piston. I'm not saying that it should be a press fit into the piston..it should be able to be put in by hand and then cut a Grove for c-clips in the pistons... not saying what you have done won't work just a different way and like you said it's only turning 2000rpm 's
Good discussion
Tell me please, do you or have you "Fly cut" the pistons for valve clearance and if so what were the circumstances?
Bobby, great to have your comments, I will have to try to remember to ask Ed on my next visit. Thank you!
I have a Model A which I put 1,500 miles a year on it. I try to keep it as stock as possible so when it breaks I can get repair parts without modifying them. “Hello NAPA? I need a connecting rod…”
That is a really great way to go… Glad to hear you’re using it, best thing for it!
That man was probably born with a can do attitude.
First thing some people do is start thinking of the reasons that they can't do something, I've never understood that way of thinking. It's unproductive.
I'm wondering if that crank would fit in my 2N.
Hmmm it might!
He was going to use a VW oil pump? Was it a crankshaft mounted oil pump on the front?
Oh interesting idea. I have not seen that done before
No he's talking about a VW Distributor for better spark control. Thanks!
@@BarryTsGarage I heard say it in earlier video
@@BarryTsGarage yes he did say using a VW distributor but he also said a VW oil pump earlier on
There is a kit to mount a VW oil pump driven on the back end of the camshaft. You can't run it with the original Magneto though.
@@jameslockard4827 oh interesting
I had a model TT
And 5 spare engines and I gave away
But I’m always interested in modifications people do on multi engines case I get excited and decide to get another engine rebuild it
GOOD GOD thats a lot of work .., I think an external oil pump would be better, even a simple plunger pump and external lines wouldn't be as much 'trouble'
Pete Aardema and Kevin Braun ... THERE are out of the box thinkers
I hear you, but the goal of the project was to keep everything looking original/stock looking… so had to think out of the box within the box 😀😮
I respect my elders but i feel like im watching those guys from Pakistan I thought when you utilize parts from newer models one takes advantage of things learned over history not to mention when better is also easier its pretty foolish not to follow that path
ignition gee lets complicate things by adding a distributor hmm maybe 60 year old outboard motor components or maybe some briggs and stratton pieces or keeping with the automotive theme 2 gm hei modules 2 double lead motorcycle coils and a couple of ford pickup coils file a few strategically located slots in whatever ya got thats round and spins with the crank and voila your own solid state ign
What about the front and rear main seal.
He worked something out. I don’t remember what, we need to do a follow up video on that. It should be installed in a car by now.
Use a Magneto
Chevy had dipper rods through 1953, not'"48 or '49".
Thanks
Further detail: The first Chevy with pressurized oiling system was the 1953 235 with Powerglide. The 1953 Chevy with manual transmission was still splash oiling with dipper rods and Babbitt. @@BarryTsGarage
@@Cougracer67well bless your little heart
Are the rods balanced or do they need be scents it’s not a high rev motor
I’ll ask Ed but I have a feeling they’re close enough like they come for this application…
"since", not scents. We're not SMELLING the engine! 😂
Engineering mixed with farmacology
😂
LOL shoulda just dropped a 300 inch ford six in it....lot less trouble and a lot more power......
That would not have fit back into the model T unless maybe you cut it in half?
WELDED rods?? I wouldnt trust those in a lawnmower!
They’ll be fine in this application… 😀
depends who welds em
i used welded rods in a very rare husqvarna v twin pmi checked to find composition and ndt tested them no probs
Why go to all this trouble?? You cant just put a Model A engine into a T??
Good question - the idea here is to keep everything looking original looking under the hood while improving power and reliability. Thanks!
This makes almost no sense. The only way to get power from this engines is to install Frontenac heads or others like Rajo etc. Sidevalves are shitvalves!
The goal here wasn’t ultimate power, but but to make as much power as possible while looking original
some side valves are surprisingly quick i modified a 20s v twin enfield ricardo reshaped chambers big valves cam ect doubled power output
I thought he was going to jump through the camera when he was talking and jerking his head up lol jk great video these gentlemen are very skilled wish I had half the knowledge these guys have heck they probably forgotten more than I know now lol thanks for sharing