hello, tin snips are good, you can also score the board with the blunt side of a industrial knife cutter then break it apart by placing the board on a desk and place it on the edge being separated and push down to snap it. All the best George
Hi.. Nice video... But don't you think that some tracks for the mosfets or transistor are too thin as they supposed to work on higher current... Please let me know if I am working...... Thank you..
It's not an ideal layout, but it was meant as a quick prototype. For real world use I'd go with a two-layer board with 2oz copper (or better.) I should have also use polygons instead of those thick traces.
Hey, thank you for the video! I have a question I hope you could answer it. I have some transparencies but the contrast I very low and the print is not good. Can you please tell me if you had problems with transparencies not being contrast enough? I wonder if this is a problem with my toner or the transparencies that I use. Thank you
@@upgrdman hey Thank you for the reply. I guess either my toner or the transparencies are of poor quality because I too use the highest density possible but the results are poor. I guess I will stay with toner transfer until I find a way. I used vellum paper with good results but it is not forgiving at all. Need to be in absolute contact otherwise the exposure is not sharp at all. Thank you again.
upgrdman i have a cuestion, Which is the difference between POSITIVE DEVELOPER and SODIUM CABONATE , because im using the second one, in the process protect the nets and pads, and after remove the copper, but the copper is removed from the pads and nets.
Hi. The positive developer is a low concentration of sodium hydroxide. The MSDS goes into some detail: www.mgchemicals.com/downloads/msds/01%20English%20Can-USA%20SDS/sds-418-l.pdf
Hello sorry ser, could I ask the specific of your bromograph? the power of the UV neon and the distance that you are using in this video. Thanks a lot, sorry for my troubled engish.
Giuseppe De Feo Hi. I don't know the details, but this is the light I use: www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/prototyping/exposure-kit-416-x/ It's roughly 6" (150mm) from the surface of the PCB.
Giuseppe De Feo Hi. I don't know the details, but this is the light I use: www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/prototyping/exposure-kit-416-x/ It's roughly 6" (150mm) from the surface of the PCB.
I've never done DIY double layer boards, it seems more effort than it's worth. Past a simple one-layer board, I would just have some boards fab'd by one of the cheap vendors in China.
Thanks. The ferric chloride and Liquid Tin are saved and reused. The soldermask developer and photomask developer are just diluted with more water and poured down the drain. If you are going to be making more than a few boards a year, you should probably look into a better way.
+Mostafa Najmi Hi. It's printed on a thin plastic "transparency" (the kind used for overhead projectors.) I used a laser printer, but inkjets should be fine too. If you want fine traces like i used (10mil and sometimes even 6mil) you need a printer that does at least 1200dpi. 600dpi is not enough.
Can anyone tell me if a Tinn solution would work on gold-plated traces? Please ignore the fact that its stupid to tin plate over already gold-plated. I would assume it would work (cause copper and gold are chemicaly very similar), but I would like to be 100% sure before buying tin plating solution
dana miller Hi. Yes, it is reusable and it lasts a long time. I bought a 500mL bottle around 3 years ago, have tin planed maybe 10 square feet (almost 1 square meter) of boards, and it still works like new.
upgrdman Hi upgrdman, What about the developer; is that reusable too?You had the developer premixed on a container with a lid; is that because you store it there for future uses? or is it just like you said it, premixed just for this video? Thanks.
hello, tin snips are good, you can also score the board with the blunt side of a industrial knife cutter then break it apart by placing the board on a desk and place it on the edge being separated and push down to snap it.
All the best
George
Hi.. Nice video... But don't you think that some tracks for the mosfets or transistor are too thin as they supposed to work on higher current... Please let me know if I am working...... Thank you..
It's not an ideal layout, but it was meant as a quick prototype. For real world use I'd go with a two-layer board with 2oz copper (or better.) I should have also use polygons instead of those thick traces.
Hey, thank you for the video! I have a question I hope you could answer it. I have some transparencies but the contrast I very low and the print is not good. Can you please tell me if you had problems with transparencies not being contrast enough? I wonder if this is a problem with my toner or the transparencies that I use. Thank you
I set my printer driver to print very dark (which uses more toner) and it works nicely.
@@upgrdman hey Thank you for the reply. I guess either my toner or the transparencies are of poor quality because I too use the highest density possible but the results are poor. I guess I will stay with toner transfer until I find a way. I used vellum paper with good results but it is not forgiving at all. Need to be in absolute contact otherwise the exposure is not sharp at all. Thank you again.
upgrdman i have a cuestion,
Which is the difference between POSITIVE DEVELOPER and SODIUM CABONATE , because im using the second one, in the process protect the nets and pads, and after remove the copper, but the copper is removed from the pads and nets.
Hi. The positive developer is a low concentration of sodium hydroxide. The MSDS goes into some detail:
www.mgchemicals.com/downloads/msds/01%20English%20Can-USA%20SDS/sds-418-l.pdf
Hello sorry ser, could I ask the specific of your bromograph? the power of the UV neon and the distance that you are using in this video. Thanks a lot, sorry for my troubled engish.
Giuseppe De Feo Hi. I don't know the details, but this is the light I use: www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/prototyping/exposure-kit-416-x/ It's roughly 6" (150mm) from the surface of the PCB.
Giuseppe De Feo Hi. I don't know the details, but this is the light I use: www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/prototyping/exposure-kit-416-x/ It's roughly 6" (150mm) from the surface of the PCB.
Please make a video of that double sided circuit board too.. I am curious about it..
I've never done DIY double layer boards, it seems more effort than it's worth. Past a simple one-layer board, I would just have some boards fab'd by one of the cheap vendors in China.
Hi!! Great video, thanks for sharing! Can I ask you what do you do with the solutions after you are done? Thank you!
Thanks. The ferric chloride and Liquid Tin are saved and reused. The soldermask developer and photomask developer are just diluted with more water and poured down the drain. If you are going to be making more than a few boards a year, you should probably look into a better way.
How did you print your copper layer on glass sheet? by laser printer? It won't get damage because of high temperature?
+Mostafa Najmi Hi. It's printed on a thin plastic "transparency" (the kind used for overhead projectors.) I used a laser printer, but inkjets should be fine too. If you want fine traces like i used (10mil and sometimes even 6mil) you need a printer that does at least 1200dpi. 600dpi is not enough.
+upgrdman good .
What about high temperature that printer makes?? the thin plastic won't fuse ?
+Mostafa Najmi There are transparencies made specifically for laser printers. Works great.
upgrdman So, Unfortunately my laser printer can not catch it . What should I do?
My printer model is: HP Laser P1102
Thanks in advanced
Can anyone tell me if a Tinn solution would work on gold-plated traces? Please ignore the fact that its stupid to tin plate over already gold-plated. I would assume it would work (cause copper and gold are chemicaly very similar), but I would like to be 100% sure before buying tin plating solution
Very interesting process, Thanks for the videos.
what is the name of that plastic paper u used to print out the schematic?
It's a transparency for overhead projectors. There's a link in the video description.
could you please tell me what is the solution used for tin plating?
+Nuwan Tharaka Hi. It's "Liquid Tin" from MG Chemicals.
Cant seem to find a place online to buy Tin plating solution... HELP!
+FrankG0421 Hi. Amazon carries it. Many other places do as well. Just Google "MG Chemicals Liquid Tin."
+upgrdman Thanks man!, Is it possible you do a little test with a teeny tiny piece of scrap PCB with gold-plated traces?
very impressive PCB design...
Khalid Bin Abdul Wadud Bin Haider Dhali Thanks!
welcome :)
Hi,
Is the Tin Plating solution reusable?
dana miller Hi. Yes, it is reusable and it lasts a long time. I bought a 500mL bottle around 3 years ago, have tin planed maybe 10 square feet (almost 1 square meter) of boards, and it still works like new.
upgrdman Great! Thank you.
upgrdman Hi upgrdman, What about the developer; is that reusable too?You had the developer premixed on a container with a lid; is that because you store it there for future uses? or is it just like you said it, premixed just for this video? Thanks.
Tony caruso Yes, that is reusable too. I typically reuse the developer until it becomes difficult to clearly see the board when submerged.
upgrdman Thanks man.
sodium carbonate is the other name of baking soda?
+Mostafa Najmi Hi. It's sodium bicarbonate:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_bicarbonate
Cool :)
You really shouldn't be touching the tinning solution. The main content is Thiourea, a known carcinogen.
Thanks. Others have commented about that too. I now use plastic tweezers to grab the boards.