Just so everyone is aware, since I keep getting questions on the T-nuts, in this situation, they are only for alignment purposes they do not have to be installed from the underside since they are not for supporting or permanently securing the miter saw. On a build where you need support and a permanent fixture, then they would be mounted from the underside.
Darryl Hurd t-nuts when used to anchor something down will get mounted on the opposite side of the wood but in this case they are just an alignment tool for the saw, they get hand tightened and removed when the saw is removed. The saw never stays on the stand unless it’s being used to cut. So no real difference how you mount them in this case.
this is exactly like the one my father (general contractor) had for his chop saw....except he used a 2x12 instead of plywood and 2x4's for the risers holding up the plywood supports....and he didnt have any T-track either....he'd just quick clamp a block down.....and his wasn't as pretty either....but other than that its exactly like my dad made! lol
Nice project--not to crazy complicated! I noticed quite a bit of deflection under the weight of the saw. How about adding a 2x4 into your sawhorse vertically in the sawhorse "jaw" on the front side and scooting the whole assemble forward 2" or so?
I think the reason he did it in the base is for when you are using warped timbers. I made the mistake of a long back fence in the past and wished I had done the stop system in the base. If you have a bowed piece you can square where the cut is and the bow can run off over the rest of the timber. This of course does not relate to furniture making for example where you would plain everything flat.
Please move the tnuts to the opposite side of the plywood from the saw! Tnuts are meant to pull against the bolt! The first time you pick up the whole unit with the mitre saw, the tnuts while come out!
Very smart, simple and effective design. However, I can't help but wonder if the board that the saw sits on bends because of the weight, even ever so slightly? If it does, that means you won't get a true 90 degree vertical cut (0 bevel). Correct?
No, because if you have a molding or piece of wood that is slightly curved or bowed or twisted, the back fence on the wings would push the workpiece of the miter saw fence and your cuts at the blade would be out of square.
It might add a little more weight than desired for portability but it definitely can be done. I gave this to a friend of mine and he cuts small to medium workpieces with it, so it’s perfect for him.
Carl Geiger I usually do that but these are only getting hand tightened and not bearing any load. I’ve used it for a few weeks already on jobs and no issues. I actually gave it to a friend who had no miter stand to keep, since I still have my old heavy duty dewalt stand, and he has no issues either.
Just so everyone is aware, since I keep getting questions on the T-nuts, in this situation, they are only for alignment purposes they do not have to be installed from the underside since they are not for supporting or permanently securing the miter saw. On a build where you need support and a permanent fixture, then they would be mounted from the underside.
Awesome video brother. This is what I’ve been looking for
I ended up building it today without the track and stop.
Shouldn't you have placed the anchor nuts underneath the plywood, instead of on the top or am I missing something here?
Darryl Hurd t-nuts when used to anchor something down will get mounted on the opposite side of the wood but in this case they are just an alignment tool for the saw, they get hand tightened and removed when the saw is removed. The saw never stays on the stand unless it’s being used to cut. So no real difference how you mount them in this case.
thats what i thought!
This is the one to copy! Simple, accurate design, easy to build. Yes, you nailed it.
this is exactly like the one my father (general contractor) had for his chop saw....except he used a 2x12 instead of plywood and 2x4's for the risers holding up the plywood supports....and he didnt have any T-track either....he'd just quick clamp a block down.....and his wasn't as pretty either....but other than that its exactly like my dad made! lol
now thats how you make a fucking how to video. 💥
this was exactly what i was looking for, thanks much.
Nice project--not to crazy complicated! I noticed quite a bit of deflection under the weight of the saw. How about adding a 2x4 into your sawhorse vertically in the sawhorse "jaw" on the front side and scooting the whole assemble forward 2" or so?
Quick question, what do you have under your sheet when track cutting? Looks like foam sheet but no waste from the cut.
Rigid foam insulation
Nice build. Here’s a thought. Add an extended fence to both sides and put the T-track in the face of the fence. Keeps the t-track cleaner.
I think the reason he did it in the base is for when you are using warped timbers. I made the mistake of a long back fence in the past and wished I had done the stop system in the base. If you have a bowed piece you can square where the cut is and the bow can run off over the rest of the timber. This of course does not relate to furniture making for example where you would plain everything flat.
Please move the tnuts to the opposite side of the plywood from the saw! Tnuts are meant to pull against the bolt!
The first time you pick up the whole unit with the mitre saw, the tnuts while come out!
@@DavidConrad-v4c read my pinned comment, “they’re not for security, just alignment. “
Nice not over complicated like some well explained thanks
I would think the T-Nuts would serve you better underneath rather than on top.
Gregg Murphy yes, if they were for permanent fixing. They are just an alignment tool in this case as the saw is always removed
Nice build. This is a great inspiration for my own miter saw station!
Totally blooming amazing. ThAnk you for sharing. Will be making one!!!
Niceeee 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Elegant simplicity. Thanks for sharing this.
Great vid brother!! This is how my first boss made them
Very smart, simple and effective design. However, I can't help but wonder if the board that the saw sits on bends because of the weight, even ever so slightly? If it does, that means you won't get a true 90 degree vertical cut (0 bevel). Correct?
Not Unless the metal on your saw is bending.
Is that the DWS779 and the Hitachi C12RSH2? Why did you pick one vs. the other?
Would a back fence make it better?
No, because if you have a molding or piece of wood that is slightly curved or bowed or twisted, the back fence on the wings would push the workpiece of the miter saw fence and your cuts at the blade would be out of square.
Nice job. I think you installed the blind nuts on the wrong side. They can easily pull out.
They’re not meant to anchor down the saw, it’s just for alignment and keep it from shifted side to side or front to back
Dude right on!!! Thanks for posting.
No flex zone
This is fantastic, thank you for sharing! I'll be doing this in prep for the trim work at my house.
Nice job 👍🇬🇧
Really nice design. Going to make a nice project one day for me.
I really like this idea good storgae space also below the t track well done
Thumbs up
Now all you need is work supports at the ends.
It might add a little more weight than desired for portability but it definitely can be done. I gave this to a friend of mine and he cuts small to medium workpieces with it, so it’s perfect for him.
Nice
Is that 3/4 or 1 inch
3/4
@@AnthonyScolaro1 good i was using 3/4 and started to panic
Cool build, question: did the t-nuts go in from the top?
Carl Geiger yes
@@AnthonyScolaro1 no concern for them to pull out? I've always put the T-bolt on the opposite side of the material, so it pulls it into the hole
Carl Geiger I usually do that but these are only getting hand tightened and not bearing any load. I’ve used it for a few weeks already on jobs and no issues. I actually gave it to a friend who had no miter stand to keep, since I still have my old heavy duty dewalt stand, and he has no issues either.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 right on, good to hear. Thank you for taking the time to reply
Carl Geiger always happy to take the time (when I can) to answer questions
👍Great job it looks good.
👍🏻
👍👍👍
Where i buy the Blue pieces?
Betin T. T just google t-tracks and you’ll find them on all websites that sell tools and equipment
Excellent video, I’m gonna build one just like it, thanks Anthony, enjoy your work!
What is the spray finish you used? How many coats?
Follow Me polycrylic. Just 2 quick coats, not really needed but I had it so I used it.