Your clip here is a master class in how to explain fundamental diagnostics. The best takeaway from your clip is how you demonstrate alternate tools to accomplish tasks performed by the more costly professional gear. You raised the bar on what we should expect from instructional content.
1 turn on key observe for 13 to 14 volts at battery guage . Observe computer self test This light comes on for about 3 seconds then gos out prior to starting your car on every start this confirmation will eliminate a computer brain possible problem for your car. 2 crank it over if no rpm movement or bounce possible crank or cam sensor problem. If none of these issues Are present 3 pop the hood remove air intake spray quick start directly into the intake Crank engine if it starts. You have eliminated Spark timing and compression possibilities. Check fuel supply electrical side for minimum of 12 volts at the fuel pump If no 12 volts back track to relay/ fuse box Check low battery Possible ground or positive electrical problem. If fuel system items are good Battery,relay/fuse,pump,filter fuel proper pressure at fuel rails? Move onto checking uour fuel injectors 90 percent of the fuel injectors will be an electrical problem Check with a noid light If no injector working Check fuel injector relays/fuse for proper operation. If not receiving power Backtrack to computer check for signal Brian output pin to injectors If no signal Check sensors Crank,cam and water tempreture sensors The computer brain recieves 0.5 volt signals from these working 3 sensors in order to instruct the injectors to inject fuel at the right time into the engine. Nothing hard about engines.very simple concept really
Your clip here is a master class in how to explain fundamental diagnostics. The best takeaway from your clip is how you demonstrate alternate tools to accomplish tasks performed by the more costly professional gear. You raised the bar on what we should expect from instructional content.
Thank you, Rick, for your kind comments. They are much appreciated. :)
This Instructor is much better than anyone you will find on RUclips. He is teaching you many things in one video.
Thanks so much for the kind comment.
1 turn on key observe for 13 to 14 volts at battery guage .
Observe computer self test
This light comes on for about 3 seconds then gos out prior to starting your car on every start this confirmation will eliminate a computer brain possible problem for your car.
2 crank it over if no rpm movement or bounce possible crank or cam sensor problem.
If none of these issues
Are present
3 pop the hood remove air intake spray quick start directly into the intake
Crank engine if it starts.
You have eliminated
Spark timing and compression possibilities.
Check fuel supply electrical side for minimum of 12 volts at the fuel pump
If no 12 volts back track to relay/ fuse box Check low battery
Possible ground or positive electrical problem.
If fuel system items are good
Battery,relay/fuse,pump,filter fuel proper pressure at fuel rails?
Move onto checking uour fuel injectors
90 percent of the fuel injectors will be an electrical problem
Check with a noid light
If no injector working
Check fuel injector relays/fuse for proper operation.
If not receiving power
Backtrack to computer check for signal Brian output pin to injectors
If no signal Check sensors
Crank,cam and water tempreture sensors
The computer brain recieves 0.5 volt signals from these working 3 sensors in order to instruct the injectors to inject fuel at the right time into the engine.
Nothing hard about engines.very simple concept really