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@@Michael-oc5ut Are you reusing your old crush sleeve or is it a new one? If it is new, it is possible that is an incorrect sleeve, so not allowing proper set up. If it is your old one, it likely is over-crushed and needing replacement.

Good idea to check that your bearing races are all the way in, for sure, as that certainly could also cause high readings before reaching minimum torque.

@@bensiemers5094 when I heated the bearing the first time I noticed it wasn't all the way on the pinion shaft the smaller bearing on the driveshaft side it seems like after I froze it then the thing slipped down and fit right. I'd like to avoid taking the whole thing back apart but I'll try to hit it in a few areas with a flat punch and hammer and see if changes things. It's a solid spacer are I measured to make sure the proper shims were there so I don't think it's a crush sleeve issue

@@Michael-oc5ut You really should avoid heating the bearings to install as to avoid softening the metal, unless only a few hundred degrees in an oven. They are meant to be cold pressed on. The small bearing doesn't need pressing as it is only a mild interference fit.

If you have a solid space, then you will have to play with shims until it can handle the specified pinion nut torque. It won't be stated as a minimum but generally a set torque. You will also have a specified pinion rotating torque in inch lbs that needs to be met. My procedure outlined only applies to crush sleeves and not pinion bearing spacers and shims.

This may help. ruclips.net/video/0xG0McBLz2k/видео.html

There are multiple things that can cause this.

Though I have offered some suggestions on this site, it is not easy to provide sound advice without a vehicle in front of me. If there are trouble codes, they would need to be followed up on to see if it is a problem outside of your MAF sensor circuit. However, your new MAF sensor could also be defective, or your wiring integrity going to the sensor could possibly be faulty. In that case, further specific testing of those circuits would be required.

You will have to consult a specific wiring diagram pertaining to your vehicle to be clear of the circuit, and it will depend on how many wires you have with your sensor. Generally, there is a wire supplying voltage from the fuse and relay panel and a ground and signal wire from the ECM. Other wires are for the air temperature sensor separate or within the MAF sensor.

It is very possible that the 2 black white wires are both ground wires that down the line connect to the same place. If this is the case, it wouldn't make a difference on connection. If you can search for and locate a wiring diagram, you can verify this assumption.

@@bensiemers5094 thanks for the reply, yeah man that's what I thought However, I did not have absolute confidence to make a final decision without hearing opinions from other people thanks very much

Just one note. Disconnect your connector momentarily, key off and measure the resistance between the two black and white wires with an ohm meter. If they are down near 0 to .3 ohms, that is a good condition that they are common to each other.

@@bensiemers5094 they were down to 0

@@bensiemers5094 ok, then let me give you the reading of all wires and you tell if it's a proper reading so I can solder them. because I've had a couple misfires on bank 1 while I was thinking that the MAF has some to do with. first I had cylinder 5 now 1 . ok with connector disconnected ignition off testing the power wire and the ground next to it gave me 441 ohms, testing power and the other ground 441 ohms, the yellow wire with each ground 1290 ohms, the white one which might be the maf signal gave none, now here is the voltage test with ignition switched to on position. yellow 4.83 v, both black 0.01 v, red 12 v, and some change, the white one 1.50 v

Thank you. Yes, I do have one in my series. :)

Or give me a summary of cars parts

Canadian

I am not sure what vehicle you have the rear axle from. Is this a pickup? I am taking that this is a removable carrier diff?

It’s a ford E-150 club wagon

This should help. This is from Summit Racing and it has, what I believe, is your specs. static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/fms-fordinstshtring-and-pinion.pdf

Thank you

@@bensiemers5094 This is Perfect, thanks so much!

It is difficult to do an online diagnosis without assessing the car directly and performing various tests such as fuel pressure, exhaust restriction, compression assessment, ignition, etc, but if you indicate what is going on and what codes you may have, I may be able to suggest an approximate direction.

You have to be careful here and make sure that you are first referring to a repackable, adjustable bearing and not a bearing that is a sealed non-adjustable bearing that does require a fairly high torque spec. Always look up your vehicle's specifications and procedures to verify. If you are referring to an adjustable bearing (greaseable), these bearings should not have a torque load of much more than a few inch pounds after being set properly. If play remains, then your spindle likely has wear on it and is causing your bearing to wiggle up and down on it. The solution is, in this case, to replace the spindle that is causing the issue and not to tighten it further. In some cases the hub will be worn out and the bearing races can be loose in them causing the play. If this happens, replace the hub. If you do not see exposed tapered roller bearings as being separate from their races, but rather the bearing that is sealed, you are looking at non-adjustable bearings and these must be torqued to a fairly high value (research specs).

@@bensiemers5094 They are adjustable. Front bearings on a 90s ford van. Youre probably right its probably the spindle… although when I installed them originally the spindles seemed smooth by sight and touch. 219k miles though. Could also be “normal” very slight play I guess. I’ll reset them with less torque and just deal woth the slight play. Thank you!

That is because the Ford Transit uses a non-adjustable type bearing that is designed with sealed, double-bearing design which prevents the tightening load from being directly placed on the bearing rollers themselves. The specific bearings I am giving instructions on are adjustable repackable bearings used in vehicles that were not of the front-wheel drive or modern all-wheel drive design. Utility trailers also use adjustable bearings. There are some older front-wheel drive vehicles where the rear wheel bearings were repackable and adjustable. You can tell that you have an adjustable bearing because they will have tapered roller bearings, and visible grease with a bearing cap. The roller bearings, cage, and inner races are removable by finger from and their outer races that are pressed into the bearing hub.

Thank you for your quick response, it's nice to see a true professional at work 👍

Thank you for your kind words. I am so glad you enjoyed the video.

Repackable wheel bearings should be checked for play when you do routine oil changes and maintenance. Manufacturers' recommendations will vary but the range of about 25,000 to 30,000 miles is likely in the ballpark.

@@bensiemers5094 ok thank you man

You bet. I would appreciate seeing your products. Thank you. Much success to you.

Thanks for your question. In both cases, the RPM gauge is connected to the primary side of the ignition coil, which is the switching side of the coil, so it has a pulse signal reference that is converted to RPM

@@bensiemers5094 thank you. both your video and reply has been a great help

Thanks, Kevin!

Thank you. I appreciate your feedback.

Thank you for your comment. :)

Thank you, Rick, for your kind comments. They are much appreciated. :)

I was an automotive instructor for 31 years and combined 40 years as a mechanic. I am lucky enough to have access to a good manual resource, so it definitely helps. :). Thank you for your kind comments. Best of wishes. Enjoy your DIY work.

What if you didn't get a reading on The Hertz is the mass flow sensor bad does anybody know thanks

That is a very good question. No, this procedure would be for conventional O2 sensors. Your procedure for wideband is quite a bit different. Unfortunately, I do not have content on that test, but there are posted videos elsewhere to assist.

Thank you for the kind comments. :)

You are so very welcome. Thank you.

Thank you! That is a great question. Many vehicles will have a 5 volt return signal voltage when the sensor is unplugged. Once plugged in, however, this will change and vary depending on engine load due to the varied resistance going through the sensor. Some vehicles, however, will use a hz signal on the return wire, and although you can read a voltage on that wire, it won't be very responsive to engine load changes, so the HZ selection must be used on a multimeter to pick it up. The 12 volts that you may be referring to is the actual power feed in the sensor. There may be vehicles out there, though, with up to 12-volt signal return since there are so many different manufacturers, in the world. I am just not presently aware of one at this point. :)