nice tutorial, i will have to do the same but the other way round, my car has the aluminium part you are installing but i can't find it anywhere, everyone has the type you removed, is there a metalic one with m10 hole?
Nice video but it looks like you damaged the bottom ball joint boot with the pry bar at 7:14. I use a tube tied to the ball joint end and a piece of wood under the subframe to lever off. I think this is shown in the Haynes manual for the 206.
No damage to that ball joint 👌 That is a method shown in the Haynes, but it's 9/10 times useless as you can't lever the bar down low enough unless the car is jacked up 3 feet in the air. 👌
Usually M10 is 1.5 ... But ymto be sure I'd suggest you check a bolt against the thread on the bush and then get the right ones (if you've not got a big ol' tray of used bolts like me!)
DTurbo is just a spec. If your searching just for that, widen it out. The only issue I've found is gear linkage bolt location differences, this was easy to sort from memory. Otherwise they are indentical across all years.
Hey Piggy, I'm looking into doing this mod myself, but I've heard people say you also need to modify that bracket of the sway bar bush that presses down on the the P bush, since the new P bush is thicker. Is that right? Does it really make any difference?
I did this upgrade a couple months ago, and today just found out a downside to the mod. Wheel alignment I just got showed my castor angle has been reduced, which is not so great by my understanding. Most the aftermarket style ones often aim to increase castor to gain traction and more stability, where as this factory bush seems to take away like 1 degree of castor.
The centre point of these bushes to the centre point of the mounting bolts are the same. So there should be no change in geometry at all. I'd check other things on the vehicle if this is 100% accurate reading, comparing before and after.
@@PiggyPower Actually, I'll retract that, I just went and looked at the Powerflex bush, and visually the change in the hole position on that and it gives .5, so there is literally no way the Partner bush would have done it. Now I am not trusting this wheel alignment much.
I'd be checking my front wishbone bushes and the ball joints. For a really accurate wheel alignment... There is adjustment in those wishbones by a little each side and in the ball joint bolts etc. You'd be amazed.
@@PiggyPower I'm now wondering if someone put manual rack balljoints in my car at some point vs the power steering ones, cause that's the only thing I can think of that would be that far off spec...
Yeah, they are.... Tweeting annoying ... I don't notice them until edits as I just work along side them 😂 Apologies... But I'm not bird mass murderer 😂👌🐷💪
Dude you are a boss, so much info, part numbers, suggestions. So much good in one video ♥
Thanks 👍🐷
Great. Especially the detail you gave about the front bush was grea
No worries 👍😊
Them sparrows are having a real party
Daylight is partytime for them!
Really great informative videos on this channel for sure!
Thanks 👌🐷
Excelente Trabajo gracias Amigo. Saludos desde Uruguay un abrazo Gigante!!!
Hi there! Great to hear from international viewers! 👍😀🐷
Thanks for that video. I've got this job to do so it's been handy
No worries 😃👍🐷💪
Great job Piggy! i miss to the 407
Me not so much 😂
10:30 Et voila! Marvellous mate. 🤙
nice tutorial, i will have to do the same but the other way round, my car has the aluminium part you are installing but i can't find it anywhere, everyone has the type you removed, is there a metalic one with m10 hole?
Part number is in the description 👍
Nice video but it looks like you damaged the bottom ball joint boot with the pry bar at 7:14.
I use a tube tied to the ball joint end and a piece of wood under the subframe to lever off. I think this is shown in the Haynes manual for the 206.
You realise that's just WD-40... right?
No damage to that ball joint 👌
That is a method shown in the Haynes, but it's 9/10 times useless as you can't lever the bar down low enough unless the car is jacked up 3 feet in the air. 👌
thanks for this info. mate
No worries 👍
🐷💪
Very important, after job like that, go and get the alignment done.
Also is that Very bad pitting on the inside of the brake disc?
Important after any suspension change or remove/refit to check wheel alignment 👍
I dunno about the brake disc, I can't see your brakes from here 😜
@@PiggyPower i could swear that there was a lot of rust on your brakes 😉 .
Anyway I got the bushes for my 306,
The poly bushes are way too expensive.
@@zwloki0 yeah the Powerflex ones are a huge difference and the older ones don't fit great tbh
Hi, is it a m10 x 1.25 20mm bolt for the new p bushing?
Usually M10 is 1.5 ... But ymto be sure I'd suggest you check a bolt against the thread on the bush and then get the right ones (if you've not got a big ol' tray of used bolts like me!)
Hi,is new one stiffer than old?
Yes of course!
Hey piggy I need to change my front sub frame on my 1996 d turbo I'm not sure what one I can use I only find petrol sub frames for sale
DTurbo is just a spec. If your searching just for that, widen it out. The only issue I've found is gear linkage bolt location differences, this was easy to sort from memory. Otherwise they are indentical across all years.
Hey Piggy, I'm looking into doing this mod myself, but I've heard people say you also need to modify that bracket of the sway bar bush that presses down on the the P bush, since the new P bush is thicker. Is that right? Does it really make any difference?
It's TINY bit thicker but really not enough to care. I've never had issues.
@@PiggyPower great! Thank you!
No worries! Please consider subscribing and sharing 😃🐷
I did this upgrade a couple months ago, and today just found out a downside to the mod.
Wheel alignment I just got showed my castor angle has been reduced, which is not so great by my understanding.
Most the aftermarket style ones often aim to increase castor to gain traction and more stability, where as this factory bush seems to take away like 1 degree of castor.
The centre point of these bushes to the centre point of the mounting bolts are the same. So there should be no change in geometry at all. I'd check other things on the vehicle if this is 100% accurate reading, comparing before and after.
@@PiggyPower Actually, I'll retract that, I just went and looked at the Powerflex bush, and visually the change in the hole position on that and it gives .5, so there is literally no way the Partner bush would have done it.
Now I am not trusting this wheel alignment much.
I'd be checking my front wishbone bushes and the ball joints. For a really accurate wheel alignment... There is adjustment in those wishbones by a little each side and in the ball joint bolts etc. You'd be amazed.
@@PiggyPower I'm now wondering if someone put manual rack balljoints in my car at some point vs the power steering ones, cause that's the only thing I can think of that would be that far off spec...
Nah, they change camber and the ball joint would be all loose as they are a different diameter.
r.i.p headphone users those damn birds
Yeah, they are.... Tweeting annoying ... I don't notice them until edits as I just work along side them 😂
Apologies... But I'm not bird mass murderer 😂👌🐷💪
Are the lower arms a a RCZ the same as you have there ?
Not even slightly. Other them having bushes and a ball joint and being called a lower arm 😂👍🐷
Do you live in some sort of forest surrounded by woodland creatures and birds?
I live in the countryside...so you'd think the birds would have places to live...but no... My workshop seems nice to them 🙉
@@PiggyPower like a modern Snow White...
Or pig
is that similar like on citroen ax
No different design of arm.
Its peoget 407?
Peugeot 306. As mentioned 👍