We’ve got shower boards pre fitted in our upstairs bathroom, but our shower mixer tap moves slightly in the holes, will they have some kind of seal to stop water getting behind the board? Keep up the great vids, cheers
A little hint I learnt when installing shower wall board @ £240 a sheet, especially in tight bathrooms and showers requiring many pipe holes through the boarding. Get a sheet of 4ft x 8ft x 4mm (or 6mm) MDF and prototype cutting the MDF to size and drilling the exact location of pipe holes first. You discover things like you can't get the boarding in the en-suite, as door is not big enough, so door frame had to be removed, location of pipes is not exactly where you thought they were as well as walls not being exactly right angles. As stated measure at least 4 times before cutting. Once all prototyped in MDF and all fitting correctly, transfer the measurements to the boarding and cut (new fine tooth blade recommended) and drill. Then bingo board fits 100% first time. The same sheet of MDF of course can be used multiple times, starting at biggest wall first and cutting down to small end walls etc.
Great tip thanks Ian, after measuring numerous times still haven’t got the bottle to cut me pipe holes! Was even thinking of putting boot polish on ends of pipe then offering board up to mark the back just to quadruple check ha, mdf template is a great idea, cheers, Jane. (Still doing the boot polish thing as well though)
I get there are plenty of differing qualities of panel, but anyone paying £240 per panel ought to have their a$$ removed. However, if you’re daft enough to pay that then yes a template board would be a good idea. Even cheaper panels if installed correctly with care, will last.
I have just installed a tray, panels and door etc. Shower panels seem an attractive idea and I fell for it. I thought soldering the copper pipe was going to be the tough part, but it's easy by comparison with the precision with which you have to work to ensure a) the walls are flat, b) the walls are vertical c) if you get b right the corner is vertical. Then there's the horizontal bit. You need that tray to be level - not just close, but level. All the above is an absolute requirement, since if it isn't, the panels won't fit the horizontal and vertical channels. I never liked tiling, but I like shower panels far less. At least with tiling you can make minor adjustments between tiles.
I chose these panels 25 yrs ago, never had a problem. My new system was a double Shower Cabinet, on a raised Heavy weight Tray, that had a raised lip all round. Sealing was easy.
Thanks for the video. My 70 y.o. father was instaling Laminex sheets in his bathroom with plastic c and t shaped strips which he did not cut to the panel size or wall length. It was a pain in the butt. I wish he watched your video first. It would have saved time and wasted materials. Cheers mate 👍
I have done a few of these and normally i find the corner is never level or out of square. I use instastick (fast setting expanding foam filler, made for fixing plaster-board to walls) to fit the bar and the panels. It makes leveling the center bar much simpler and provides a good solid fix in about 10 mins. You can just hold it level with your hands until it sets. Again expanding foam will also take up any large gaps in the panels due to uneven/un-level walls. In severely un-square walls, stud-work is needed to square it up but the created external corners need to be made good.
I used old but flat plywood panels, and wedged in any bits of wood to level it up, then put the new stuff on. OR, just use large dollops of Glue, and press the panels slowly in, while using a plumb line and long spirit level, to keep it upright and level.
I got my panels at reasonable price £45 per sheet carogated pvc panel. Cheap and cheerful. As my first washroom renovate project after experience slow water leaks over time installed by a European builder when widening the washroom for my mum mobility needs via council grant. I've redone all the plumbing my self from scratch to feel secure and assured no rough job but with patience and kept on remeasure many times before any cuts on pipe and panel. I be using H shape fixings to add the difference gap of panels between joints and a plastic corner cove effect trim on top edge. Using my imaginative idea and effort 👌
These are the future of bathrooms. Had them In my en-suite and they are much better than tiles anyway IMO Look just as good if not better. Less chance of any leaks. Clean and easy to install Very easy to clean and don’t have to worry about re grouting.
Brilliant stuff as ever. I did fit shower panels in the master bathroom refit I just did, love them so much nicer than tiles One tip (in case it helps someone not to make the mistake I did!) if you're fitting into a 3 wall recess....so you have 2 internal 90 degr corner upright joins to glue in place....fit the vertical corner pieces one at a time! (mine was around the bath and the back wall was almost 2 panels wide, so I foolishly assumed Icould push the 2 panels into place - like a v - and the tongue/groove middle would fit together in the process...not realising that the tap I had fitted to the back wall side of the bath completely interfered with this cunning plan....and in fact the panels were so rigid it wouldn't have worked anyway...) There were a lot of naughty words that day.
Great Vid, Circular saws are designed to create a self clamping force when cutting, for this reason best side of material should be facing the ground, to avoid chipping/splintering best to use a blade with straight teeth (Zero Degree Hook Angle ak.a teeth in line with blade not sticking out either side) that ideally has 80 or 90 teeth on the blade. Keep up the informative vids buddy.
Bit of advice on removing the peel coat. As the showerwall board is a laminate product and only 0.5mm to 0.7mm thick and liable to defect or damage - (not often, but sometimes) so the peel coat is supposedly only there for transport purposes. Strictly speaking, you should take the peel coat off before fitting the board just in case you detect a fault in the laminate. Saves a lot of hassle rather than doing it last. "I.D." Surfaces btw is referring to International Decorative surfaces who deliver throughout the U.K. and who have the best range of Showerwall, various flooring, worktops, Hot and normal taps in the U.K. There is a neat "Visualiser" on their site where you can run through all the different decors available in Shower wall that show them in different bathroom configurations so you can make a more informed choice. Great Video btw.
Very useful and detailed video. 👌 so simple to follow with patience. All depends on the space you have in order to make it easy. Mine was hard to bring panel into tight space so I had to trim it accordingly to slide it in upwards only by doing it in a angle would be hard to rotate it up after. Clever idea on edge notch very useful 👌 top marks overall for the video 😊
Great video, I've just ordered a multipanel system which I'm installing over a shower bath next weekend. Thanks for showing how to install properly, hopefully makes it an easier job on the day. I'm using the offcuts and multipanel join to put a splashback around the rest of the bath rather than just 1.2m from the corner.
@@wanderer10k yeah pretty happy with it. The wall wasn't in great condition so in hindsight should have checked it was completely flat before installing as there's a couple of mm where one panel projects slightly in front of the one next to it but it's so much easier to clean and no grout to worry about
Sorry James, it may be only my ear but you sound just like Baldrick. Definitely same area of country. I hope you have plenty of cunning plans. Cheers and keep safe from Oz
Just about to attempt, this video very, very helpful.... be nice to see a video on how to clean up mastic properly, as every time i use the stuff its like having a glue factory on your hands....
I fit these regularly, most of the time they are bent like bananas because they haven't been stored flat and getting them upstairs and into a small bathroom is always fun. I use foam adhesive because it allows for for undulations in the walls of most bathrooms and sets quick.
Hiya what type of adhesive foam you use? Would something like SOUDAL ADHESIVE FOAM from screwfix do the job? I'm hoping to panel onto previously painted tiles (I have cleaned them thoroughly). I was going to use grip fill but the wall bows in so I need to fill the dip. Wondering if this foam will fill that in? Cheers
Apply it to the back of the board, if you want to make you life easy install PVC wall panels the 250mm wide ones they are much easier to fit and cheaper and use normal panel adhesive.
Great vid, thanks. Going to do this in my own bathroom at home shortly. First time I will have done shower board. I'm a plumber but have always previously worked with tiles, these seem like they offer a much better finish and to be less leak prone.
No grouting to look after, but if your in a hard water area, always use a squeegy on the panels, after use, they might not be so resistant to limescale chemicals as glazed tiles.
Thank you mate, really thank you. I have tiled shower on the first floor and it is leaking through the lousy grout. These panels will save me. After watching this video I should be able to install them myself, to guarantee quality of fitting. Thank you.
Great vid James as always .... I want to use the walls with the profile but how do you square off the profiles with fitting an enclosure? Would you cut short the profile to fit inside the enclosure profile or would you run the showerwall profile through the enclosure profile?
Hi mate just watched this video and found this very helpful, with useful tips from a expert. In fact would you like to fit ours? Only thing we have its a sloping top which I don't feel so comfortable doing. Like you say you only get 1 chance when cutting the boards.Nice one mate Pete.
3 sided shower - install sequence- James what is your recommendation, would you check plumb, glue one corner to wall, then install a panel with corner trim already fitted to edge ? or fit both corners and bend panel to fit ?? interested to hear your experiences. Thanks great videos
Hi James, after the flexible rubber fin on the tip of the sureseal snap-on cover trim 'relaxes' and is no longer capable of forming a pressure seal (against) the wall panel face, will the water streaming down the shower wall panel leak inside behind the snap-on cover trim, pond up and eventually blow the panel?
What if you have a bath in place already. Can that be moved out and the panel placed behind it or do you need to have some trim over the edge of the bath? I was thinking of doing just one wall. Thanks.
Is it possible to build a shower niche within the panels or is it not advisable due to possible leakages? I’m thinking about making one from the leftover panel (Multipanel), but a bit worried that it may not be possible to seal it properly. Any tips? PS. Your videos are making diy so much simpler. As always, really appreciate.
James, great video - thank you. Just one observation: you offered the panel into the bottom trim and then slid it sideways into the corner piece. It seems to me that this would not be possible if you had pipe work and cable protruding through holes drilled in the panel. What do you think?
Hi, Great Vid. One question, how would you install a shower screen/door with the bottom profile in place. This would prevent the frame from sitting against the wall flush. Cheers.
Great video, I personally prefer Fibo shower boards, they do a tile effect range which are amazing, definitely worth a look especially if your doing more then the shower area 🤙
Can I borrow you to put in shower panels for my mum? We are getting nowhere with professionals and I’m not sure my diy skills are quite there! Your videos give me hope…..
Dude, I have plasterboard walls. Some tiled. And wanting to stick some wall panels to them. Do I prime or use pva on the wall first before sliconing the panels on to them. Thank you Great videos. I have a channel to showing building videos. Get in touch
Great video, thanks. I'm going to be fitting boards into a camper conversion soon, once the stud work is done do I need to board it first or can these go straight onto the stud work?
Looks smart just need to decide on this or tiles! I've just bought the silicone formers, silicone gun and signed up to prime off your Amazon store! All the best Andy
Love your videos, going to start cladding myself never done it but want to know do I need to use internal corners and where should I start? At internal corners or on one side of the wall? Only cladding 3 out of 4 walls. TIA
I got two of these for a shower enclosure, stored them exactly as instructed both in the instructions and as per the video - both slightly bowed in the middle convex down the board. Need to be plumb for sticking to the wall. Ended up having to prop diagonal timber against them for the evening with buckets of water hanging on the timber to keep it wedged against the board so it was flat against the wall whilst the adhesive went off. They're really good and really tidy, but a bit of a pain if they don't come flat.
do the bottom parts come in all the shower wall install kits or purchased separately? can you please link which kit you utilized wall kit & bottom if not included. thank you so much!
Loving your plumbing tips and fixes James, Question if you were joining boards are they tongue and groove do you put a teeny bit of silicone in too? My shower wall is abt 1.5m so 2x panel widths needed there and 2x more for the sides, hopefully the cut offs will extend the side walls.dont want to waste it,, Hold tight indeed ! Dave up in Stamford
I am going to use the 10mm version of these pvc panels and wondered how you would go about fixing the glass shower screen. Would you fit the shower screen to the wall and then but the shower panel up to it with and end trim or fix the shower screen on top of the panel?
Just come across this video as I'm looking to install panels on my remodel - but it will be 3 sides..... how do I get the back on in and get it water tight??
Using 5mm composite panels onto durarock. Wall surface slightly uneven max 1/4” so what’s simple manner of shimming low spots. Either utilize thin plastic vertical shims or use a skim coat a leveling patching compound like speed set or Ardex leveler. Also Should I use waterproof membrane like aqua defense or redguard- if so which construction adhesive be best to utilize
Hi there! I'm installing panels on top of a hard-surface shower type (not tile, but some kind of engineered panel). It says in the instructions to clean the existing panels from soap scum, etc., OR to put two coats of water or oil-based sealer on the existing surface and let it dry completely before installing new panels. My question is, what kind of sealer do I need? Or is this redundant and the new panels will glue up fine without this sealer... Appreciate your help!
Hi, I was wondering how Showerwall panels compared to PVC panels? I'm looking to do update a small bathroom with these and thought about installing these floor to ceiling then install the bath, or is it better to install bath first and install the panels on the bath? Thanks in advance
I am looking at the showerwall products - e.g. SWQNW03 It's 2440 H x 600 or 1200 W Can this product be installed horizontally - i.e. instead of going from floor to ceiling, can I fix it running from left to right (so that the height becomes the width) above a bath?
Where can I purchase these cut to fit shower walls? I V? UD? Was mentioned in video, due to accent and rapid speech, I could not understand the brand name. Product item number info purchase info would be great. Thanks! Awesome video overall
Hoover is a manufacture ! Vacuum is what you did as I found out working abroad as I asked for my apartment to be hoovered which it wasn’t for a week until we found that they did not understand 👍😃 for your international followers
About time English English dictionaries were updated to include hoover as a noun and a verb. Hoovering with a Hoover hoover has been a thing for over 50 years. The rest of the world needs to catch up.
Can you explain to me why internal corners of wetwall outside the shower area are the same as the bloody things in the corner of the shower (only a 3mm overlapp of the trim). Thats just insane!
Thanks for the great video. It has raised a few queries though. I've just suffered a direct & severe hit on my tiled shower area due to failed grout, so am very nervous about the potential for leaks on whatever system I fit next. First Q is why does the relatively flimsy plastic base seal angle need to be screwed to the wall, in addition to bonding with silicone, whilst the more substatial aluminium corner trims rely on adhesive alone? Surely if there's even a tiny risk that the silicone doesn't bond well enough by itself to the plastic base strip, and/or the substrate, then that's good reason to run a mile from this system. Also, are those stainless steel screws? Wouldn't want any corrosion down there. Q2; With an alcove shower area, (enclosed on 3 sides), how is the back panel fitted into two pre installed corner trims, bearing in mind the panel will be wider than the edge to edge distance between the trims? I'm wondering if the corner trims would have to be sealed onto the back panel edges, left to cure, and then fitted as a framed assembly, or would we be expected to slot it into one channel, then somehow bow the panel enough to tuck it into the other ? As the need for watertight joints is an absolute must have, I appreciate you've pointed out the leak points are reduced to 3 lines, but it's actually double that due to the inclusion of trims. Panel to corner trim, plus corner trim to adjacent panel, and same again for panel to base trim, plus base trim to shower tray. Installed correctly and we'll never have a problem? That would be nice, but I see there's only a 15 year guarantee, so just wondered how much in-service history this system has, especially as sealant condition won't be visible to inspect for condition, as it's hidden under trims. All very worrying! Call it shower anxiety, equivelent to range anxiety on an electric car. Cheers, Allan
Hi, I see they didn’t reply to you but wondered how you got on with fitting the back panel with 2 corners pieces? I have this style shower and I’m lost on how to do this?
@@avbotv1280 Hi AvBo, I guess no reply could mean he has no experience on aclove installations, therefore no info to pass on...fair enough. But to your question; I haven't done it yet.....still waiting for the wall to dry out, but in the meantime I've been researching which panels to use. I've got a few samples from various manufacturers, but can't get samples of the trims. I've decided to avoid acrylic; far too brittle, the clue is in the large radii they specify for internal cuts. Definately wouldn't want to risk MDF backed ones. But without seeing the depth of the channel on the internal corner trims, and assuming it's deep enough to slot onto a panel without too much slop, my plan is to cut the back panel of the alcove to size & shape and silicone (bond) the corner trims onto it first, off the job. I suggest only do one edge at a time, because if the viscosity of the sealant, and the clearance on the trim channel for squeezeout prevents the edge trim fully seating, you could end up with the assembled back panel too wide. Leave overnight to cure, and without knowing how stiff the trims are, I suggest that to get a fully seated good straight edge it may be worth clamping up with a straight lump of wood, perhaps using tie down strap wrenches, or even loops of string to tension up around the panel. So with only one edge done, you leave yourself the chance to trim the other raw edge down a bit to compensate, if needed. Then bond the rear panel assembly to the back wall as a unit. I believe there's an added advantage in that you can inspect (what would otherwise be) the unseen side to make sure there's a 100% continuous line of silicone squeeze out to ensure at least the first part of the double joint line is OK. That gives you confidence to know that when you slot the side panels in, your technique / sealant quantity is already proven, when it can't be inspected. So, if you've already got a kit, can you please let me know which brand, and how snugly the internal corner trims fit and how deep they are. Ideally we want them to keep a good 90 degree angle when slotted onto the back panel, without the shower alcove itself holding them at 90. Ideally no trims is the logical way forward, but Bushboard panels are the only ones I've found to offer this, and they have rolled edge panels too, but they're very expensive. I'm settling for Mermaid composite panel, as their sample cuts well without chipping, is quite rigid, has a nice hard surface (not soft like the PVC options) and hasn't absorbed any water after a week in a bucket, and their website shows the trim x sections. I first saw them in Wickes but they're 40% cheaper at Wolseley, and seem good value. Good luck, and please let me know about the trim channel snugness.
Hi Just view few videos and is two different ways. On first people first install panels after shower tray, on second, shower tray first after wall panels. What You recommended ? Thanx
Hi, great video, thanks. One question from me. I intend using Splashwall in a 3-sided (800x800x800) shower enclosure. How would you suggest I install the panel that will have TWO internal corner trims? The only thing I can think of is attaching the trims to the rear panel BEFORE installing it and then gluing the panel with the two corner trims attached as one piece! Any other advice? Thanks
Had exactly this myself. Best strategy is to only install one corner at a time (don't glue both in....like I did! doh - you live and learn) If you can, start with one of the side panels - preferably the one with the cutouts for the pipes/valve. Reason being - unlike as has been shown here in this video (where there are no protruding pipes to manage) - you wouldn't even want to put the first corner profile in until you are ready to put in the side panel that you have the pipe cutouts on because you wouldn't be able to place the internal edge into the corner profile and angle it on with the pipes and valve sticking out - and if you were to cater for that by oversizing the pipe/valve cutout, you'd likely end up with an additional 10mm cutout around your pipe or valve to seal afterwards. (You might be lucky - but I cut the pipework holes so close to pipe/valve dims that there was no wiggle room in that regard). So the panel with the pipe cutouts - get the backing all glued up and the corner profile area - also run the sealant into the inside of the corner profile that you're about to fit - squish it onto the panel then offer the whole thing up and push into place flat - so no real need for any lateral adjustment. Then do the same for the back (internal) panel - seal up and put the second corner profile onto the other edge of this one and angle it into the existing, then push it all on flat. Last one's a doddle.
I'm covering the floor panels in a later video, but the ceiling ones aren't really 'plumbing' videos and I'd probably get a load of internet hate if I covered them in a seperate video! I'll do a Q and A about them later this week live on the channel instead!
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We’ve got shower boards pre fitted in our upstairs bathroom, but our shower mixer tap moves slightly in the holes, will they have some kind of seal to stop water getting behind the board? Keep up the great vids, cheers
What do you do if your walls are more than 8 feet high. Do you join boards or leave them short
A little hint I learnt when installing shower wall board @ £240 a sheet, especially in tight bathrooms and showers requiring many pipe holes through the boarding. Get a sheet of 4ft x 8ft x 4mm (or 6mm) MDF and prototype cutting the MDF to size and drilling the exact location of pipe holes first. You discover things like you can't get the boarding in the en-suite, as door is not big enough, so door frame had to be removed, location of pipes is not exactly where you thought they were as well as walls not being exactly right angles. As stated measure at least 4 times before cutting. Once all prototyped in MDF and all fitting correctly, transfer the measurements to the boarding and cut (new fine tooth blade recommended) and drill. Then bingo board fits 100% first time. The same sheet of MDF of course can be used multiple times, starting at biggest wall first and cutting down to small end walls etc.
Great tip thanks Ian, after measuring numerous times still haven’t got the bottle to cut me pipe holes! Was even thinking of putting boot polish on ends of pipe then offering board up to mark the back just to quadruple check ha, mdf template is a great idea, cheers, Jane. (Still doing the boot polish thing as well though)
Love and MDF prototype!!!
Grate stuff !!! That makes perfect sense 🤗😁
I get there are plenty of differing qualities of panel, but anyone paying £240 per panel ought to have their a$$ removed. However, if you’re daft enough to pay that then yes a template board would be a good idea.
Even cheaper panels if installed correctly with care, will last.
Found video very useful as just about to cut and fit panels. Templates a good idea.
I wish every plumber like this guy very lively and pleasant happy person keep it up man in your real life as well
What a beautiful way of explaining, no boring stuff or sloppy faces. I loved it and learnt a lot too. Thanks
Been a plumber all my life and now retired, but this and all his videos are enlightening and helpful.
Keep it up.
Bobbo jones cheers bro!
@@plumberparts Thank you for this informative video can you do this on a concrete wall around a bath and window. Thank you very much.☺
What did you mean when you said therr are only e.posisble ways of leaks happening @@plumberparts
Done my first ever bit of plumbing this weekend.
Glad I come here to get the advice that I need to look after my home
I have just installed a tray, panels and door etc. Shower panels seem an attractive idea and I fell for it. I thought soldering the copper pipe was going to be the tough part, but it's easy by comparison with the precision with which you have to work to ensure a) the walls are flat, b) the walls are vertical c) if you get b right the corner is vertical. Then there's the horizontal bit. You need that tray to be level - not just close, but level. All the above is an absolute requirement, since if it isn't, the panels won't fit the horizontal and vertical channels. I never liked tiling, but I like shower panels far less. At least with tiling you can make minor adjustments between tiles.
I chose these panels 25 yrs ago, never had a problem. My new system was a double Shower Cabinet, on a raised Heavy weight Tray, that had a raised lip all round. Sealing was easy.
Thanks for the video. My 70 y.o. father was instaling Laminex sheets in his bathroom with plastic c and t shaped strips which he did not cut to the panel size or wall length. It was a pain in the butt. I wish he watched your video first. It would have saved time and wasted materials. Cheers mate 👍
I have done a few of these and normally i find the corner is never level or out of square. I use instastick (fast setting expanding foam filler, made for fixing plaster-board to walls) to fit the bar and the panels. It makes leveling the center bar much simpler and provides a good solid fix in about 10 mins. You can just hold it level with your hands until it sets. Again expanding foam will also take up any large gaps in the panels due to uneven/un-level walls. In severely un-square walls, stud-work is needed to square it up but the created external corners need to be made good.
This is so much better than the panel company video! Thank you.
Realy informative and useful, thanks. I read the showerwall installation guide, but video is a different and effective way of learning. Nice.
Looks like good stuff, I bet it's fun on wonky old walls though in older houses!!
I used old but flat plywood panels, and wedged in any bits of wood to level it up, then put the new stuff on. OR, just use large dollops of Glue, and press the panels slowly in, while using a plumb line and long spirit level, to keep it upright and level.
I got my panels at reasonable price £45 per sheet carogated pvc panel. Cheap and cheerful. As my first washroom renovate project after experience slow water leaks over time installed by a European builder when widening the washroom for my mum mobility needs via council grant. I've redone all the plumbing my self from scratch to feel secure and assured no rough job but with patience and kept on remeasure many times before any cuts on pipe and panel. I be using H shape fixings to add the difference gap of panels between joints and a plastic corner cove effect trim on top edge. Using my imaginative idea and effort 👌
Very good video James your skill and experience makes the job look easy! Lots of clear info and sensible advice thanks!
Very clear, great personality, and confident.
The saw depth setting was a wild tip!
Prefer to watch whole video with you lying down...so relaxing!
These are the future of bathrooms. Had them In my en-suite and they are much better than tiles anyway IMO
Look just as good if not better. Less chance of any leaks.
Clean and easy to install
Very easy to clean and don’t have to worry about re grouting.
They don't look better than tiles though
Brilliant stuff as ever. I did fit shower panels in the master bathroom refit I just did, love them so much nicer than tiles
One tip (in case it helps someone not to make the mistake I did!) if you're fitting into a 3 wall recess....so you have 2 internal 90 degr corner upright joins to glue in place....fit the vertical corner pieces one at a time!
(mine was around the bath and the back wall was almost 2 panels wide, so I foolishly assumed Icould push the 2 panels into place - like a v - and the tongue/groove middle would fit together in the process...not realising that the tap I had fitted to the back wall side of the bath completely interfered with this cunning plan....and in fact the panels were so rigid it wouldn't have worked anyway...) There were a lot of naughty words that day.
Good to have the right tools required as mentioned in the link 👍 I just used good quality rubber gloves instead of panel suckers but worth having 😊.
Excellent workmanship and banter, what could possibly go wrong when I have a go 🤔
Your timing is immense with this - literally just choosing shower panels! Bloody legend mate, thanks for your honest review! New fan here!
Haha! Cheers dude. It's a great system!
Great Vid, Circular saws are designed to create a self clamping force when cutting, for this reason best side of material should be facing the ground, to avoid chipping/splintering best to use a blade with straight teeth (Zero Degree Hook Angle ak.a teeth in line with blade not sticking out either side) that ideally has 80 or 90 teeth on the blade. Keep up the informative vids buddy.
Bit of advice on removing the peel coat. As the showerwall board is a laminate product and only 0.5mm to 0.7mm thick and liable to defect or damage - (not often, but sometimes) so the peel coat is supposedly only there for transport purposes. Strictly speaking, you should take the peel coat off before fitting the board just in case you detect a fault in the laminate. Saves a lot of hassle rather than doing it last. "I.D." Surfaces btw is referring to International Decorative surfaces who deliver throughout the U.K. and who have the best range of Showerwall, various flooring, worktops, Hot and normal taps in the U.K. There is a neat "Visualiser" on their site where you can run through all the different decors available in Shower wall that show them in different bathroom configurations so you can make a more informed choice. Great Video btw.
Brilliant job and perfectly explained, thanks so much.
I hope your cat is well recovered now James.
A simple thank you for all your videos so far is not enough mate....my family really thanks you....
Very useful and detailed video. 👌 so simple to follow with patience. All depends on the space you have in order to make it easy. Mine was hard to bring panel into tight space so I had to trim it accordingly to slide it in upwards only by doing it in a angle would be hard to rotate it up after. Clever idea on edge notch very useful 👌 top marks overall for the video 😊
I have NO intention of using panels but I sat and watched this because I love the channel haha
The two identically patterned boards is the icing on top of the proverbial cake 😂
Great video, I've just ordered a multipanel system which I'm installing over a shower bath next weekend. Thanks for showing how to install properly, hopefully makes it an easier job on the day. I'm using the offcuts and multipanel join to put a splashback around the rest of the bath rather than just 1.2m from the corner.
Dont bother just tile it . You will thank me.
How did it end up? Happy with it vs tiling?
@@wanderer10k yeah pretty happy with it. The wall wasn't in great condition so in hindsight should have checked it was completely flat before installing as there's a couple of mm where one panel projects slightly in front of the one next to it but it's so much easier to clean and no grout to worry about
Brilliant video as ever. Definiteley installing this system in my new en-suite. Much tidier than tiles.
Good luck.
Sorry James, it may be only my ear but you sound just like Baldrick. Definitely same area of country. I hope you have plenty of cunning plans.
Cheers and keep safe from Oz
BOOM BOOM BOOM!
Great vid, ( subbed) looks really good , great presentational skills and editing.Cheers
The Bradley Walsh of plumbing.
Great video and very informative. Can these panels be attached directly onto plasterboard?
Just about to attempt, this video very, very helpful.... be nice to see a video on how to clean up mastic properly, as every time i use the stuff its like having a glue factory on your hands....
I fit these regularly, most of the time they are bent like bananas because they haven't been stored flat and getting them upstairs and into a small bathroom is always fun.
I use foam adhesive because it allows for for undulations in the walls of most bathrooms and sets quick.
Gator glue?
Hiya what type of adhesive foam you use? Would something like SOUDAL ADHESIVE FOAM from screwfix do the job? I'm hoping to panel onto previously painted tiles (I have cleaned them thoroughly). I was going to use grip fill but the wall bows in so I need to fill the dip. Wondering if this foam will fill that in? Cheers
@@johnconner6446 yes soudal adhesive foam is fine, follow the instructions on the can, don't stick it back too soon after spaying or it doesn't work.
@@terminatorsquarepants2874 cheers mate. Do you mean apply it to the wall, leave it a bit so it goes tacky and expand, then put the panel on?
Apply it to the back of the board, if you want to make you life easy install PVC wall panels the 250mm wide ones they are much easier to fit and cheaper and use normal panel adhesive.
Finish looks great, I like these boards I gives the room a more sense of space. Well done.
Great video. Very informative and love your style. So many types of these videos are just too serious.
Great vid, thanks. Going to do this in my own bathroom at home shortly. First time I will have done shower board. I'm a plumber but have always previously worked with tiles, these seem like they offer a much better finish and to be less leak prone.
No grouting to look after, but if your in a hard water area, always use a squeegy on the panels, after use, they might not be so resistant to limescale chemicals as glazed tiles.
Thank you mate, really thank you. I have tiled shower on the first floor and it is leaking through the lousy grout. These panels will save me. After watching this video I should be able to install them myself, to guarantee quality of fitting. Thank you.
Great vid James as always .... I want to use the walls with the profile but how do you square off the profiles with fitting an enclosure? Would you cut short the profile to fit inside the enclosure profile or would you run the showerwall profile through the enclosure profile?
Beautifully done. Thank you.
Hi mate just watched this video and found this very helpful, with useful tips from a expert. In fact would you like to fit ours? Only thing we have its a sloping top which I don't feel so comfortable doing. Like you say you only get 1 chance when cutting the boards.Nice one mate Pete.
James I love the way you put the level on the corner profile to check how you put it that it's level 🤔🤦♂️
3 sided shower - install sequence- James what is your recommendation, would you check plumb, glue one corner to wall, then install a panel with corner trim already fitted to edge ? or fit both corners and bend panel to fit ?? interested to hear your experiences. Thanks great videos
Great video. Thanks. Do you have anything to show how to fit a shower niche into shower wall panels?
Hi James, after the flexible rubber fin on the tip of the sureseal snap-on cover trim 'relaxes' and is no longer capable of forming a pressure seal (against) the wall panel face, will the water streaming down the shower wall panel leak inside behind the snap-on cover trim, pond up and eventually blow the panel?
Great, Thank you for showing us how to the job, I Wish it was out in 1980's when I my bathroom,
HAha! Unlucky bro!
www.bath1.com/toto-lt481g-01-cotton-maris-undermount-bathroom-sink-overflow-sanagloss
What if you have a bath in place already. Can that be moved out and the panel placed behind it or do you need to have some trim over the edge of the bath? I was thinking of doing just one wall. Thanks.
where in the 'link below' is the video that included fixing a panel onto a shower tray please? Thanks great video.
Is it possible to build a shower niche within the panels or is it not advisable due to possible leakages? I’m thinking about making one from the leftover panel (Multipanel), but a bit worried that it may not be possible to seal it properly. Any tips?
PS. Your videos are making diy so much simpler. As always, really appreciate.
Great video. How do i seal where i am butting up two boards next to each other?
Good video bud. Quick question, do you need to tank the walls prior to fitting?
James, great video - thank you. Just one observation: you offered the panel into the bottom trim and then slid it sideways into the corner piece. It seems to me that this would not be possible if you had pipe work and cable protruding through holes drilled in the panel. What do you think?
Hi, Great Vid. One question, how would you install a shower screen/door with the bottom profile in place. This would prevent the frame from sitting against the wall flush. Cheers.
I’d love an answer on this…. Just about to fit my new shower with showerwall
Great video, I personally prefer Fibo shower boards, they do a tile effect range which are amazing, definitely worth a look especially if your doing more then the shower area 🤙
Thanks dude!
Can I borrow you to put in shower panels for my mum? We are getting nowhere with professionals and I’m not sure my diy skills are quite there! Your videos give me hope…..
Hello James,
How about when you have two corners? How you slide in to when you have no space on the other side?
Dude, I have plasterboard walls.
Some tiled.
And wanting to stick some wall panels to them.
Do I prime or use pva on the wall first before sliconing the panels on to them.
Thank you
Great videos.
I have a channel to showing building videos.
Get in touch
Hi I’m about to install a similar shower panels and have found the video very helpful. what adhesive do you recommend for attaching the panel’s?
Do you only need to use bottom profiles when you’re installing a shower, can the rest of the bathroom be done without them?
Great video, thanks. I'm going to be fitting boards into a camper conversion soon, once the stud work is done do I need to board it first or can these go straight onto the stud work?
Thanks for the video. Maybe you could show us how to make the holes for and seal the shower attachments, please?
Brilliant video and cheerful to watch
Looks smart just need to decide on this or tiles!
I've just bought the silicone formers, silicone gun and signed up to prime off your Amazon store! All the best
Andy
Stick with tiles mate, they've been working since Roman times.
Hey Andy! Cheers for that dude! I'll be adding some more bits every so often!
They are okay for public toilets and caravans. Tiles all day long for a premium look.
Love your videos, going to start cladding myself never done it but want to know do I need to use internal corners and where should I start? At internal corners or on one side of the wall? Only cladding 3 out of 4 walls. TIA
Hi ya watched today again as Im about to try the grosfillex panels and Im a bit scared but gonna have a go. Cheers
I got two of these for a shower enclosure, stored them exactly as instructed both in the instructions and as per the video - both slightly bowed in the middle convex down the board. Need to be plumb for sticking to the wall. Ended up having to prop diagonal timber against them for the evening with buckets of water hanging on the timber to keep it wedged against the board so it was flat against the wall whilst the adhesive went off. They're really good and really tidy, but a bit of a pain if they don't come flat.
That's a bummer! I blame the delivery firm as most manufacturers of this know how important it is to keep it flat!
do the bottom parts come in all the shower wall install kits or purchased separately? can you please link which kit you utilized wall kit & bottom if not included. thank you so much!
Level is a horizontal check. When it is upright it is called plumb.
Got to say that looks really good. Would it be as simple if the shower pipes were already in-situ as would surely be standard?
i think is a fantastic system easy to install and cost effective enjoyed the video.
Thanks Ratch!
Its actually more expensive if you use all the trim/profile crap....no need for it.
Loving your plumbing tips and fixes James,
Question if you were joining boards are they tongue and groove do you put a teeny bit of silicone in too? My shower wall is abt 1.5m so 2x panel widths needed there and 2x more for the sides, hopefully the cut offs will extend the side walls.dont want to waste it,,
Hold tight indeed !
Dave up in Stamford
I am going to use the 10mm version of these pvc panels and wondered how you would go about fixing the glass shower screen. Would you fit the shower screen to the wall and then but the shower panel up to it with and end trim or fix the shower screen on top of the panel?
Really find these videos funny as f@#k! Everyone seems to have a bathroom the size of a Belfast shipyard! So easy in that environment
Top video mate. Keep up the great work! And carry on being you
Thanks Luke!
Hi mate,
Which drill bit and wall plugs can you use for shower panels, for example installing an electric shower onto.
Just come across this video as I'm looking to install panels on my remodel - but it will be 3 sides..... how do I get the back on in and get it water tight??
Hi mate. Do the back one first. Don’t bother using the upright strips. Just seal properly with silicone.
Using 5mm composite panels onto durarock. Wall surface slightly uneven max 1/4” so what’s simple manner of shimming low spots. Either utilize thin plastic vertical shims or use a skim coat a leveling patching compound like speed set or Ardex leveler.
Also Should I use waterproof membrane like aqua defense or redguard- if so which construction adhesive be best to utilize
Hi do you recommend any cleaner for the tiles side before sticking the panels on ? Thanks great videos as always 👍🏻
Hi there! I'm installing panels on top of a hard-surface shower type (not tile, but some kind of engineered panel). It says in the instructions to clean the existing panels from soap scum, etc., OR to put two coats of water or oil-based sealer on the existing surface and let it dry completely before installing new panels. My question is, what kind of sealer do I need? Or is this redundant and the new panels will glue up fine without this sealer... Appreciate your help!
Hi, I was wondering how Showerwall panels compared to PVC panels? I'm looking to do update a small bathroom with these and thought about installing these floor to ceiling then install the bath, or is it better to install bath first and install the panels on the bath? Thanks in advance
What kind of screws are you using to fix into the wall (tiles)?
I am looking at the showerwall products - e.g. SWQNW03
It's 2440 H x 600 or 1200 W
Can this product be installed horizontally - i.e. instead of going from floor to ceiling, can I fix it running from left to right (so that the height becomes the width) above a bath?
Where can I purchase these cut to fit shower walls? I V? UD? Was mentioned in video, due to accent and rapid speech, I could not understand the brand name. Product item number info purchase info would be great. Thanks! Awesome video overall
Hoover is a manufacture ! Vacuum is what you did as I found out working abroad as I asked for my apartment to be hoovered which it wasn’t for a week until we found that they did not understand 👍😃 for your international followers
About time English English dictionaries were updated to include hoover as a noun and a verb. Hoovering with a Hoover hoover has been a thing for over 50 years. The rest of the world needs to catch up.
Would recommend using a plunge saw with rails for cutting wetwall
Can you explain to me why internal corners of wetwall outside the shower area are the same as the bloody things in the corner of the shower (only a 3mm overlapp of the trim). Thats just insane!
Thanks for the great video. It has raised a few queries though. I've just suffered a direct & severe hit on my tiled shower area due to failed grout, so am very nervous about the potential for leaks on whatever system I fit next.
First Q is why does the relatively flimsy plastic base seal angle need to be screwed to the wall, in addition to bonding with silicone, whilst the more substatial aluminium corner trims rely on adhesive alone? Surely if there's even a tiny risk that the silicone doesn't bond well enough by itself to the plastic base strip, and/or the substrate, then that's good reason to run a mile from this system. Also, are those stainless steel screws? Wouldn't want any corrosion down there.
Q2; With an alcove shower area, (enclosed on 3 sides), how is the back panel fitted into two pre installed corner trims, bearing in mind the panel will be wider than the edge to edge distance between the trims? I'm wondering if the corner trims would have to be sealed onto the back panel edges, left to cure, and then fitted as a framed assembly, or would we be expected to slot it into one channel, then somehow bow the panel enough to tuck it into the other ?
As the need for watertight joints is an absolute must have, I appreciate you've pointed out the leak points are reduced to 3 lines, but it's actually double that due to the inclusion of trims. Panel to corner trim, plus corner trim to adjacent panel, and same again for panel to base trim, plus base trim to shower tray.
Installed correctly and we'll never have a problem? That would be nice, but I see there's only a 15 year guarantee, so just wondered how much in-service history this system has, especially as sealant condition won't be visible to inspect for condition, as it's hidden under trims. All very worrying! Call it shower anxiety, equivelent to range anxiety on an electric car. Cheers, Allan
Hi, I see they didn’t reply to you but wondered how you got on with fitting the back panel with 2 corners pieces? I have this style shower and I’m lost on how to do this?
@@avbotv1280 Hi AvBo, I guess no reply could mean he has no experience on aclove installations, therefore no info to pass on...fair enough. But to your question; I haven't done it yet.....still waiting for the wall to dry out, but in the meantime I've been researching which panels to use. I've got a few samples from various manufacturers, but can't get samples of the trims. I've decided to avoid acrylic; far too brittle, the clue is in the large radii they specify for internal cuts. Definately wouldn't want to risk MDF backed ones. But without seeing the depth of the channel on the internal corner trims, and assuming it's deep enough to slot onto a panel without too much slop, my plan is to cut the back panel of the alcove to size & shape and silicone (bond) the corner trims onto it first, off the job. I suggest only do one edge at a time, because if the viscosity of the sealant, and the clearance on the trim channel for squeezeout prevents the edge trim fully seating, you could end up with the assembled back panel too wide. Leave overnight to cure, and without knowing how stiff the trims are, I suggest that to get a fully seated good straight edge it may be worth clamping up with a straight lump of wood, perhaps using tie down strap wrenches, or even loops of string to tension up around the panel. So with only one edge done, you leave yourself the chance to trim the other raw edge down a bit to compensate, if needed. Then bond the rear panel assembly to the back wall as a unit. I believe there's an added advantage in that you can inspect (what would otherwise be) the unseen side to make sure there's a 100% continuous line of silicone squeeze out to ensure at least the first part of the double joint line is OK. That gives you confidence to know that when you slot the side panels in, your technique / sealant quantity is already proven, when it can't be inspected.
So, if you've already got a kit, can you please let me know which brand, and how snugly the internal corner trims fit and how deep they are. Ideally we want them to keep a good 90 degree angle when slotted onto the back panel, without the shower alcove itself holding them at 90. Ideally no trims is the logical way forward, but Bushboard panels are the only ones I've found to offer this, and they have rolled edge panels too, but they're very expensive. I'm settling for Mermaid composite panel, as their sample cuts well without chipping, is quite rigid, has a nice hard surface (not soft like the PVC options) and hasn't absorbed any water after a week in a bucket, and their website shows the trim x sections. I first saw them in Wickes but they're 40% cheaper at Wolseley, and seem good value. Good luck, and please let me know about the trim channel snugness.
Does the sealant need to be solvent free for pvc panels?
Hi
Just view few videos and is two different ways. On first people first install panels after shower tray, on second, shower tray first after wall panels. What You recommended ? Thanx
how often to re silicon the edge to maintain waterproofing?
Hi, great video, thanks. One question from me. I intend using Splashwall in a 3-sided (800x800x800) shower enclosure. How would you suggest I install the panel that will have TWO internal corner trims? The only thing I can think of is attaching the trims to the rear panel BEFORE installing it and then gluing the panel with the two corner trims attached as one piece! Any other advice? Thanks
Had exactly this myself. Best strategy is to only install one corner at a time (don't glue both in....like I did! doh - you live and learn) If you can, start with one of the side panels - preferably the one with the cutouts for the pipes/valve. Reason being - unlike as has been shown here in this video (where there are no protruding pipes to manage) - you wouldn't even want to put the first corner profile in until you are ready to put in the side panel that you have the pipe cutouts on because you wouldn't be able to place the internal edge into the corner profile and angle it on with the pipes and valve sticking out - and if you were to cater for that by oversizing the pipe/valve cutout, you'd likely end up with an additional 10mm cutout around your pipe or valve to seal afterwards. (You might be lucky - but I cut the pipework holes so close to pipe/valve dims that there was no wiggle room in that regard). So the panel with the pipe cutouts - get the backing all glued up and the corner profile area - also run the sealant into the inside of the corner profile that you're about to fit - squish it onto the panel then offer the whole thing up and push into place flat - so no real need for any lateral adjustment. Then do the same for the back (internal) panel - seal up and put the second corner profile onto the other edge of this one and angle it into the existing, then push it all on flat. Last one's a doddle.
Hi there, can you recommend a type of panel, or are they all pretty much the same (foam core, or hollow pvc which is best?)
What boards did you use, how thick are they and would you recommend using MDF, Plywood core or pure PVC?
Just noticed you've got ceiling cladding / panels whatever they're called installed, is that going to be covered in a future video?
I'm covering the floor panels in a later video, but the ceiling ones aren't really 'plumbing' videos and I'd probably get a load of internet hate if I covered them in a seperate video! I'll do a Q and A about them later this week live on the channel instead!
@@plumberparts That's great, cheers!
Do you do private work in Cranleigh village? We would love to have our shower and bathroom done by the professionals......
Good explanation. Nice and simple 👌