Thank you for this information. I’ve been trying to preach this to the public. There are probably 50 videos on RUclips showing how to sharpen on a stone and too few explaining why this shouldn’t be done. For those interested, the stone you used is DMT brand. We sell it but so do many sporting good stores and woodworking supply stores. Great for ceramic blades.
Great video! I think a lot of people and from what I have seen mess up clipper blades on blocks because as you said they flatten it, this happens on too coarse of a stone. Ive had better luck on blocks with clippers staying in the 500-1000 grit range, it sharpens them but also keeps that curveture in the blade. I also see too many people going past 1000 which tends to make them too smooth leading to over heating. The final place I see people ruin clippers is from inconsistent pressure when using any stone.
Hio I have always enjoyed your videos except I have found a problem with what you say! You always talk about your diamond wheel that has been designed and remains in your family and you talk about that is has a special convex shape curved on the surface although they way you move the blades in the wheel surface, if looks like you are using a normal lapidary diamond plate! If the plate had been any other shape but flat (IE the Tapered plates that I ordinarily use to do convex sharpening) you are required to move the blade in a certain position along the radius of the wheel, exerting pressure exactly where you said in todays video in order to get the convex cutting but when the wheel if flat, it does not matter which way you move it since is flat! That is exactly what you are doing; you say the wheel has a special shape (probably tapered to achieve convexity) and yet you work the blade on that wheel as if it were a flat lapidary wheel without any complex geometry on its surface and therein lies the question mark! PS; just finished the video and this time you are moving the blade better but I was refering to all of your other videos where you move the blade anywhere on the wheel, today you seem to be more restrained to the line
Thanks for taking the time to check out our videos. We appreciate everybody who watches whether it be a professional sharpener or a customer looking for sharpening and service. or for those just trying to get from point A to point B, but the majority of our videos are birthed from what we see from customers on a day to day basis. You're correct about the movement on a tapered wheel, which requires a specific movement across the face, but we do not use tapered wheels. You're also correct about the movement when using a flat wheel. However, our wheels are neither flat nor tapered. As you mentioned, yes, there is complex geometry on the surface of our wheel (leading to a long-lasting edge) but it's not tapered, and because of this, not all of the same rules apply as when using a tapered wheel. We'd be happy to share more about this if you're interested. Please feel free to respond to this comment directly or you can contact us directly through any of our other channels.
I don't understand, if the diamond wheel is donut shaped, yet you move the blade back and forth across the width. Wouldn't all parts of the blade essentially touch all of the wheel?
Hi! i say its like a donut shape but it actually just hollows the blade out like a ball shape so all the teeth pich down. So the whole blade does touch but i carve the middle of the blade out so it stays sharper longer until it becomes flat. Then it is dull. Thanks for watching.
I love your work and how you teach. Thank you.
You are the Best Nick!!!! Thank you for your work!!!
Awesome advice. You are the man !! Always an informative video. Thank you
Always faithful! Appreciate it Famas!
Thank you for this information. I’ve been trying to preach this to the public. There are probably 50 videos on RUclips showing how to sharpen on a stone and too few explaining why this shouldn’t be done. For those interested, the stone you used is DMT brand. We sell it but so do many sporting good stores and woodworking supply stores. Great for ceramic blades.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment Bonika! We appreciate your support and the content you also create on this platform. Keep up the great work!
Great video! I think a lot of people and from what I have seen mess up clipper blades on blocks because as you said they flatten it, this happens on too coarse of a stone. Ive had better luck on blocks with clippers staying in the 500-1000 grit range, it sharpens them but also keeps that curveture in the blade. I also see too many people going past 1000 which tends to make them too smooth leading to over heating. The final place I see people ruin clippers is from inconsistent pressure when using any stone.
Hi, I was wondering what model the clipper is? Thanks
Hio I have always enjoyed your videos except I have found a problem with what you say!
You always talk about your diamond wheel that has been designed and remains in your family and you talk about that is has a special convex shape curved on the surface although they way you move the blades in the wheel surface, if looks like you are using a normal lapidary diamond plate!
If the plate had been any other shape but flat (IE the Tapered plates that I ordinarily use to do convex sharpening) you are required to move the blade in a certain position along the radius of the wheel, exerting pressure exactly where you said in todays video in order to get the convex cutting but when the wheel if flat, it does not matter which way you move it since is flat!
That is exactly what you are doing; you say the wheel has a special shape (probably tapered to achieve convexity) and yet you work the blade on that wheel as if it were a flat lapidary wheel without any complex geometry on its surface and therein lies the question mark!
PS; just finished the video and this time you are moving the blade better but I was refering to all of your other videos where you move the blade anywhere on the wheel, today you seem to be more restrained to the line
Thanks for taking the time to check out our videos. We appreciate everybody who watches whether it be a professional sharpener or a customer looking for sharpening and service. or for those just trying to get from point A to point B, but the majority of our videos are birthed from what we see from customers on a day to day basis. You're correct about the movement on a tapered wheel, which requires a specific movement across the face, but we do not use tapered wheels. You're also correct about the movement when using a flat wheel. However, our wheels are neither flat nor tapered. As you mentioned, yes, there is complex geometry on the surface of our wheel (leading to a long-lasting edge) but it's not tapered, and because of this, not all of the same rules apply as when using a tapered wheel. We'd be happy to share more about this if you're interested. Please feel free to respond to this comment directly or you can contact us directly through any of our other channels.
I don't understand, if the diamond wheel is donut shaped, yet you move the blade back and forth across the width. Wouldn't all parts of the blade essentially touch all of the wheel?
Hi! i say its like a donut shape but it actually just hollows the blade out like a ball shape so all the teeth pich down. So the whole blade does touch but i carve the middle of the blade out so it stays sharper longer until it becomes flat. Then it is dull. Thanks for watching.