@@zoubtube Hahahaha! It just seems like there's so many ways to screw it up! Your videos are super detailed, and that's the only reason I'd even consider trying it. 🤣🤣🤣
Год назад+1
Amazing video! Perfectly explained! Just one tip, to place in their position the outer body seals, the white ones and the black one, it can be easier if you give them a bit of Pringles chips shape. Just placing the seals flat over one of your fingers and bending both of the floating sides to make them hug the finger. With that shape it is easier to place them in their position.
" give them a bit of Pringles chips shape" This is such a simple way to explain the process visually. thank you so much for sharing. I'll make sure to mention this in future videos 👍
Thank you myman! much appreciated. Hopefully you find them helpful and as always feel free to ask questions or let me know how they could be made better 👍
many thanks, the video is superb! just one question about the travel adjust, as I fear mine is not working well… when turning the dial from open to mid, should I see some displacement on the shim held by the wavy washer? How can I check that there is a correct operation of opening-closing of the chambers?
Just to verify, do you have the nude DPS? When installing the lifting plate shaft into the eyelet, you have to make sure the bearing on the lifting plate shaft is installed pointing towards the remote for this shock, as is seen at 1:05:56.
Thanks for this high professional video. Can I now if I can follow this steps for the oldest version of this suspension on Scott spark wc 2019? Thank from Italy
Thank you very much for the comment. I believe the 2019 scott spark comes with the same nude 4 shock that is in this video. If yours is different, send me the tune id or serial number so I can look it up and let you know.
Amazing video. While doing an air can service, I noticed the wavy washer not set in place. There are some marks on the large chamber silver mechanism. I put it back in place but it doesn’t look right to me. Should it be all the way under and even with the larger mechanism? So far it’s holding pressure, it wouldn’t hold pressure on my last ride. Thank you
Thanks you very much. All the wave spring does is keep the check valve in place. As long as it keeps it in place, you are good. If the check valve rattles around or moves up and down freely, then you need to make sure the wave spring is seated correctly, so it won't do this. Mot of the same spring should fit under the ledge of the eyelet . let me know if this helps or if you have other concerns
@@zoubtube Thanks the helps. I had it in place so hopefully it stays and doesn't fall out again. I've been doing some research and it seems like that is a problem with this shock
When i serviced my shock for the first time, I noticed the wavy washer was loose inside too. I contact Scott service, but they refused to provided me with the information where to put it. Only for partners or professionals, they said.
Nice video. Can I service the remote/rebound dial assembly without dismantling the shock from inside out? I mean, can I just remove the set screws and take the rebound and damper setting assembly out? I have a DPS nude and the remote dial is sticking even with no cable.
Thanks for the comment. The dials can "technically" be inserted without removing the shaft from the eyelet, but it won't go straight in. It will take some wiggling as you have to align both compression and rebound cams properly to their shafts. IF the rebound rod turns on you, then you will have to do it as seen in this video. IF you have a Nude, it will be a harder. I posted a NUDE service video, there are two parts to the camshaft, which will make it more challenging If parts come in on time, I should be posting a video this coming Monday that will go over all this
Thanks for king comment. I can't say for sure but I believe yes for most. The nude 5 changed things though. I don't think the previous pulley will work, but I could be wrong. if any out there know an absolute answer to this feel free to share please. What year/version shock were you thinking of?
I guess it depends on what the issue is with the lockout. It could very well be that there isn't enough pressure in the ifp chamber, but the question is what's causing it. You can try to add pressure to the chamber to see if the lockout will work as expected (Assuming the IFP is at the proper depth). If it does end up working properly, then you still need to figure out caused the issue
Yup, just make sure to buy the right service kit for it as some of the orings are a different thickness than older versions. Also, Be Careful when servicing the Eyelet. Some of those parts are very hard to get so make sure you handle them appropriately. Also, If your compression and rebound dials are working fine I wouldn't bother servicing them.
I've know of slick kick but have never used it. It's not as distributed here in NA as it is overseas. I have to assume it'll to the job just fine, but don't use it for the dials. you need a waterproof grease for the dials
Hello, the green gasket where the shock absorber lock goes is made of plastic or rubber, it is in case I could buy it separately since there is no kit that includes both spring and green gasket and white plastic seals for scott nude from ransom bicycle . Finally these white seals would be necessary to replace them
By "green gasket" do you mean the token? If yes, tokens are optional, and made of plastic. As for "white Seals" are you referring to the white rings in the air can service? if yes, then yes, these should be replaced
I've never tried this, so I can't be 100% that there is no way to do this, but I don't think you will be able to. I'm fairly confident the issue will be the rebound metering rod. The metering rod fits into the rebound knob cam. so it protrudes a bit into the remote housing. I don't think you will be will be able to get the spring past the metering rod (or at least easily do so). let say you do, then you will have to fit the metering rod to the rebound cam, which might prove to be extremely difficult. Also (and this can be a big one) if you don't remove the air from the IFP, the whole system will be pressurized, there is a chance that the rebound metering rod might lift even higher than the cam when removing the entire remote. Even if its a few mm's it'll make it impossible to assemble it all without taking off the head. Again, I can't say 100% for sure though. If anyone out here knows of a way, please share If the shock doesn't need seal service, then taking it apart to change the spring, and putting it all back together is actually not that bad of a job if you have all the tools. The most challenging part of the job is literally filling the IFP with air, due to the pellet. FOX really needs to get a valve in there imo.
I have a 2017 scott genius 710 lt and it has the same shock but i assume it's an older generation. On the fox website the part numbers for the air can kit are different. Can I still follow this video to service my shock?
Apologies for the delayed response. From what I can tell from the 2017 710 LT specs, it has the same Nude 4 shock that's in this video. The shock in the video came from a 2018 spark. Yours will be longer in travel, I'm sure, but the overall build will be the same. What you need to know is the IFP depth, which will be in the chart below. There are multiple versions of the Genius 710. Identify your version, and you should be good. Let me know if you have any other questions IFP Info: Model IFP Pressure IFP Depth e- Contessa Spark Plus 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in e- Spark Plus 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in Spark Plus 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in Spark 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in Contessa Spark 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in Spark RC 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in Contessa Spark RC 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in (e-) Genius 700 Plus Tuned 500psi 2.360 +/- 0.020in (e-) Genius 710 Plus 500psi 2.360 +/- .020 in. Genius 920 500psi 2.360 +/- .020 in. e- Contessa Genius 720 Plus 500psi 2.360 +/- .020 in. Genius 710 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in. Genius 700 Premium 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in. Genius 720 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in. Genius 730 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in. Contessa Genius 700 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in. Contessa Genius 710 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in. Genius LT 710 Plus 500psi 2.790 +/- .020 in. Genius LT 700 Plus Tuned 500psi 2.790 +/- .020 in. Genius LT 500psi 2.790 +/- .020 in.
My sincere apologies for the delayed response. The fox parts numbers are either 398-00-099 or 398-00-833. But here is a link to a tool on ebay which Costs less than the fox tool, and the tolerances are top notch. I have zero affiliation with his guy. He just top notch alternative tool options for a good price www.ebay.com/itm/255443678943?hash=item3b79a136df:g:I1AAAOSwzN9iK9aR
Amazing job! I just had a little thought, could i just leave the delrin ball out? I mean just not put it in after closing the ifp fill screw or is that not so smart, i am just wondering what does that delrin ball do? It just sits there doing (probably) nothing 😂
Thank you very much for the comment. The delrin ball protects dirt from getting in the pellet retainer screw hole. It also helps with corrosion in the pellet retaining screw. Is it absolutely needed, Not really. But Fox wants it in there, so I replace it every time, even though I hate the thing. Some think that it helps retain air. I just don't see how it could do this. If the pellet were to pop, the pressure would surely pop the Delrin ball out of its socket. The pellet retaining screw is what applies pressure to the pellet in order to keep the hole made by the syringe in the pellet closed. As long as the screw is fastened correctly, the pellet shouldn't leak or pop.
Damn! I wish I saw this 3 days ago when I was working on a DPS for a video I just uploaded. I would have measured the bearing. I should be working on another one next week. I'll check it then.
YUP! both Air or nitrogen will work. If you ride is very hot temperatures, and on trials that are long and aggressive, then you can benefit from nitrogen. otherwise air will work just fine
What would cause the twinloc mods not to function anymore even tho the cable is turning the blue knob? I did have the dust seal partially pop up and let the air can air out bottoming the shock. After this the twinloc modes are not working. I fixed the seal and pumped up to 260psi.
Apologies for the late response. Are you sure the cable is turning the dial enough to activate the twin loc. I know my buddy (the shock in this video) was having an issue with this at the end of last season due to friction in the cable housing. Also, there are two seals, the large one on the air can, and a large delvin in the eyelet. Check to make sure that one didn't pop out as well. As for the twin loc, the dial is connected to a cam which activates a pin, which in turn activates the eyelet base and either opens or closes flow. It sounds like the base isn't activating, which can only happen if the piston is not touching it or the cam isn’t touching the piston. So you're saying the main air can seal (middle of the shock, popped out due to pressure? Did it happen while riding or filling it up? You might have to open the eyelet to look into whether the whole mechanism is working
No problem, the dust seal popped while riding. The cable was fine. I even actuated the knob manually and still nothing. I'm waiting on an inner seal kit and will have a local shop do a full rebuild. They mentioned the nitrogen was released during the blowout of the dust seal.
My blue twinloc dial is sticking is this something that can be serviced without stripped everything out? I have removed the blue dial with 1.5mm hex to see if that needed cleaning but doesn’t seem to be the case. Any help greatly appreciated.
Apologies for teh delayed response. That same thing started happening to the shock in this video a couple of months ago. One thing I've learned about this remote mechanism is that the SLIGHTEST friction in the cable doesn't allow the compression knob to fully retract. What you might want to try is to add a bit of oil to the cable housing first, especially near the base of the shock. Try that and let me know how it goes
Hello, i have Scott Spark 910 m.y. 2022 with fox Nude evol suspension, how much air can i pump inside. My weigth is 90 kg but 150 ps is not enough Thank you and cool video
I'm about 80 kg and hover around 230 psi at 25% sag. To set your sag, put the dropper down if you have one, sit on the bike with your feet on the ground without bouncing on it, then raise your feet, carefully put them on the ground again, and gently stand without bouncing the bike. Then measure the distance between the sag ring and the wiper's outer edge. Keep filling it until you measure around 11mm from the wiper edge to the sag ring. This will be ~25% sag for that shock. It's a good starting point. At 90 kg, I wouldn't be surprised if you end up at around 250 psi, give or take. But make sure to fill the shock with 50 psi at a time and cycle the shock by sitting on it about 10 times before adding more air. This is so that both chambers equalize. When you're done with your sag, then you need to set your rebound, which is a totally different process
Thanks for that. I know nothing about dual-suspension but now own a Spark and was worried about adding too much air. Looks like I need to go higher. @@zoubtube
Man, this was way more complicated than I expected it to be!
comon man, It's not all that bad. It'll take you way less time than burning all that wood in your backyard 😁
@@zoubtube Hahahaha! It just seems like there's so many ways to screw it up! Your videos are super detailed, and that's the only reason I'd even consider trying it. 🤣🤣🤣
Amazing video! Perfectly explained!
Just one tip, to place in their position the outer body seals, the white ones and the black one, it can be easier if you give them a bit of Pringles chips shape. Just placing the seals flat over one of your fingers and bending both of the floating sides to make them hug the finger. With that shape it is easier to place them in their position.
" give them a bit of Pringles chips shape"
This is such a simple way to explain the process visually. thank you so much for sharing. I'll make sure to mention this in future videos 👍
Your videos are just perfect! Thank you!
Thank you myman! much appreciated. Hopefully you find them helpful and as always feel free to ask questions or let me know how they could be made better 👍
Thank you so much, worked perfectly
Great to hear it worked out for you. If you have any questions just let me know
many thanks, the video is superb!
just one question about the travel adjust, as I fear mine is not working well… when turning the dial from open to mid, should I see some displacement on the shim held by the wavy washer? How can I check that there is a correct operation of opening-closing of the chambers?
Just to verify, do you have the nude DPS? When installing the lifting plate shaft into the eyelet, you have to make sure the bearing on the lifting plate shaft is installed pointing towards the remote for this shock, as is seen at 1:05:56.
What a great video. Very thorough and well explained
Thank you very much. If you have any questions on serving this shock feel free to ask anytime.
Thanks for this high professional video. Can I now if I can follow this steps for the oldest version of this suspension on Scott spark wc 2019? Thank from Italy
Thank you very much for the comment. I believe the 2019 scott spark comes with the same nude 4 shock that is in this video. If yours is different, send me the tune id or serial number so I can look it up and let you know.
Amazing video. While doing an air can service, I noticed the wavy washer not set in place. There are some marks on the large chamber silver mechanism. I put it back in place but it doesn’t look right to me. Should it be all the way under and even with the larger mechanism? So far it’s holding pressure, it wouldn’t hold pressure on my last ride. Thank you
Thanks you very much. All the wave spring does is keep the check valve in place. As long as it keeps it in place, you are good. If the check valve rattles around or moves up and down freely, then you need to make sure the wave spring is seated correctly, so it won't do this. Mot of the same spring should fit under the ledge of the eyelet . let me know if this helps or if you have other concerns
@@zoubtube Thanks the helps. I had it in place so hopefully it stays and doesn't fall out again. I've been doing some research and it seems like that is a problem with this shock
When i serviced my shock for the first time, I noticed the wavy washer was loose inside too. I contact Scott service, but they refused to provided me with the information where to put it. Only for partners or professionals, they said.
Nice video. Can I service the remote/rebound dial assembly without dismantling the shock from inside out? I mean, can I just remove the set screws and take the rebound and damper setting assembly out? I have a DPS nude and the remote dial is sticking even with no cable.
Thanks for the comment. The dials can "technically" be inserted without removing the shaft from the eyelet, but it won't go straight in. It will take some wiggling as you have to align both compression and rebound cams properly to their shafts. IF the rebound rod turns on you, then you will have to do it as seen in this video. IF you have a Nude, it will be a harder. I posted a NUDE service video, there are two parts to the camshaft, which will make it more challenging
If parts come in on time, I should be posting a video this coming Monday that will go over all this
Thanks for the answer!
Très bonne vidéo 👍🏼
Merci beaucoup mon ami. J'espère que ça aide. Plus de vidéos à venir 👍
Hi. Nice video. Is that remote pulley (blue dial) compatible across all scott sparks that’s got twinloc?
Thanks for king comment. I can't say for sure but I believe yes for most. The nude 5 changed things though. I don't think the previous pulley will work, but I could be wrong. if any out there know an absolute answer to this feel free to share please. What year/version shock were you thinking of?
If the lockout performance is bad could you solely repressurise the ifp chamber without doing any other servicing?
I guess it depends on what the issue is with the lockout. It could very well be that there isn't enough pressure in the ifp chamber, but the question is what's causing it. You can try to add pressure to the chamber to see if the lockout will work as expected (Assuming the IFP is at the proper depth). If it does end up working properly, then you still need to figure out caused the issue
Do you know if the Nude 5 is different or can I use this guide? Great video btw!
Yup, just make sure to buy the right service kit for it as some of the orings are a different thickness than older versions. Also, Be Careful when servicing the Eyelet. Some of those parts are very hard to get so make sure you handle them appropriately. Also, If your compression and rebound dials are working fine I wouldn't bother servicing them.
Hi! What do you think of using rsp slick kick grease instead of sram butter??? In general
I've know of slick kick but have never used it. It's not as distributed here in NA as it is overseas. I have to assume it'll to the job just fine, but don't use it for the dials. you need a waterproof grease for the dials
Hi, i have been using RSP Products for the past 2 years and they work amazingly well 👌
Hello, the green gasket where the shock absorber lock goes is made of plastic or rubber, it is in case I could buy it separately since there is no kit that includes both spring and green gasket and white plastic seals for scott nude from ransom bicycle . Finally these white seals would be necessary to replace them
By "green gasket" do you mean the token? If yes, tokens are optional, and made of plastic. As for "white Seals" are you referring to the white rings in the air can service? if yes, then yes, these should be replaced
Thanks for the information
On my shock the dial is loose, like the spring is broken, do you think I can dismount the dial without dismounting the entire shock?
I've never tried this, so I can't be 100% that there is no way to do this, but I don't think you will be able to. I'm fairly confident the issue will be the rebound metering rod. The metering rod fits into the rebound knob cam. so it protrudes a bit into the remote housing. I don't think you will be will be able to get the spring past the metering rod (or at least easily do so). let say you do, then you will have to fit the metering rod to the rebound cam, which might prove to be extremely difficult. Also (and this can be a big one) if you don't remove the air from the IFP, the whole system will be pressurized, there is a chance that the rebound metering rod might lift even higher than the cam when removing the entire remote. Even if its a few mm's it'll make it impossible to assemble it all without taking off the head.
Again, I can't say 100% for sure though. If anyone out here knows of a way, please share
If the shock doesn't need seal service, then taking it apart to change the spring, and putting it all back together is actually not that bad of a job if you have all the tools. The most challenging part of the job is literally filling the IFP with air, due to the pellet. FOX really needs to get a valve in there imo.
@@zoubtube OK thanks, you convinced me :) Great day!
I have a 2017 scott genius 710 lt and it has the same shock but i assume it's an older generation. On the fox website the part numbers for the air can kit are different. Can I still follow this video to service my shock?
Apologies for the delayed response. From what I can tell from the 2017 710 LT specs, it has the same Nude 4 shock that's in this video. The shock in the video came from a 2018 spark. Yours will be longer in travel, I'm sure, but the overall build will be the same. What you need to know is the IFP depth, which will be in the chart below. There are multiple versions of the Genius 710. Identify your version, and you should be good. Let me know if you have any other questions
IFP Info:
Model IFP Pressure IFP Depth
e- Contessa Spark Plus 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in
e- Spark Plus 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in
Spark Plus 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in
Spark 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in
Contessa Spark 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in
Spark RC 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in
Contessa Spark RC 500psi 2.150 +/- 0.020in
(e-) Genius 700 Plus Tuned 500psi 2.360 +/- 0.020in
(e-) Genius 710 Plus 500psi 2.360 +/- .020 in.
Genius 920 500psi 2.360 +/- .020 in.
e- Contessa Genius 720 Plus 500psi 2.360 +/- .020 in.
Genius 710 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in.
Genius 700 Premium 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in.
Genius 720 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in.
Genius 730 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in.
Contessa Genius 700 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in.
Contessa Genius 710 500psi 2.580 +/- .020 in.
Genius LT 710 Plus 500psi 2.790 +/- .020 in.
Genius LT 700 Plus Tuned 500psi 2.790 +/- .020 in.
Genius LT 500psi 2.790 +/- .020 in.
@@zoubtube Thank you so much, i have the 710 Lt Plus so i'll follow the numbers listed there. 👍
You don’t mention the Trunnion tool in the list of tool you will need. But you will need it, right? Do you know the part number of that tool?
My sincere apologies for the delayed response. The fox parts numbers are either 398-00-099 or 398-00-833. But here is a link to a tool on ebay which Costs less than the fox tool, and the tolerances are top notch. I have zero affiliation with his guy. He just top notch alternative tool options for a good price
www.ebay.com/itm/255443678943?hash=item3b79a136df:g:I1AAAOSwzN9iK9aR
Amazing job! I just had a little thought, could i just leave the delrin ball out? I mean just not put it in after closing the ifp fill screw or is that not so smart, i am just wondering what does that delrin ball do? It just sits there doing (probably) nothing 😂
Thank you very much for the comment. The delrin ball protects dirt from getting in the pellet retainer screw hole. It also helps with corrosion in the pellet retaining screw. Is it absolutely needed, Not really. But Fox wants it in there, so I replace it every time, even though I hate the thing.
Some think that it helps retain air. I just don't see how it could do this. If the pellet were to pop, the pressure would surely pop the Delrin ball out of its socket. The pellet retaining screw is what applies pressure to the pellet in order to keep the hole made by the syringe in the pellet closed. As long as the screw is fastened correctly, the pellet shouldn't leak or pop.
@@zoubtube Thanks for the fast Reply 👌
Hi! Thanks for the video! Do you know the size of the bearing under the bleeding screw? Mine just disappeared 😢
Found it in the Fox spec sheets. It's 1/8 inch.
Damn! I wish I saw this 3 days ago when I was working on a DPS for a video I just uploaded. I would have measured the bearing. I should be working on another one next week. I'll check it then.
@@pablocarbajo5545 Now I wish I saw this one before I saw the last one 😁Good job figuring out for us👍
You don't need to fill with Nitrogen? Air works too?
YUP! both Air or nitrogen will work. If you ride is very hot temperatures, and on trials that are long and aggressive, then you can benefit from nitrogen. otherwise air will work just fine
What would cause the twinloc mods not to function anymore even tho the cable is turning the blue knob?
I did have the dust seal partially pop up and let the air can air out bottoming the shock. After this the twinloc modes are not working. I fixed the seal and pumped up to 260psi.
Apologies for the late response. Are you sure the cable is turning the dial enough to activate the twin loc. I know my buddy (the shock in this video) was having an issue with this at the end of last season due to friction in the cable housing. Also, there are two seals, the large one on the air can, and a large delvin in the eyelet. Check to make sure that one didn't pop out as well.
As for the twin loc, the dial is connected to a cam which activates a pin, which in turn activates the eyelet base and either opens or closes flow. It sounds like the base isn't activating, which can only happen if the piston is not touching it or the cam isn’t touching the piston.
So you're saying the main air can seal (middle of the shock, popped out due to pressure? Did it happen while riding or filling it up?
You might have to open the eyelet to look into whether the whole mechanism is working
No problem, the dust seal popped while riding. The cable was fine. I even actuated the knob manually and still nothing. I'm waiting on an inner seal kit and will have a local shop do a full rebuild. They mentioned the nitrogen was released during the blowout of the dust seal.
My blue twinloc dial is sticking is this something that can be serviced without stripped everything out? I have removed the blue dial with 1.5mm hex to see if that needed cleaning but doesn’t seem to be the case. Any help greatly appreciated.
Apologies for teh delayed response. That same thing started happening to the shock in this video a couple of months ago. One thing I've learned about this remote mechanism is that the SLIGHTEST friction in the cable doesn't allow the compression knob to fully retract. What you might want to try is to add a bit of oil to the cable housing first, especially near the base of the shock. Try that and let me know how it goes
@@zoubtube thanks. I will check this out, I will check out the the cable and routing. Thanks again
Hello, i have Scott Spark 910 m.y. 2022 with fox Nude evol suspension, how much air can i pump inside. My weigth is 90 kg but 150 ps is not enough
Thank you and cool video
I'm about 80 kg and hover around 230 psi at 25% sag. To set your sag, put the dropper down if you have one, sit on the bike with your feet on the ground without bouncing on it, then raise your feet, carefully put them on the ground again, and gently stand without bouncing the bike. Then measure the distance between the sag ring and the wiper's outer edge. Keep filling it until you measure around 11mm from the wiper edge to the sag ring. This will be ~25% sag for that shock. It's a good starting point.
At 90 kg, I wouldn't be surprised if you end up at around 250 psi, give or take. But make sure to fill the shock with 50 psi at a time and cycle the shock by sitting on it about 10 times before adding more air. This is so that both chambers equalize. When you're done with your sag, then you need to set your rebound, which is a totally different process
thank you very much everything is very clear, in the end I set 275 psi ✌️
Thanks for that. I know nothing about dual-suspension but now own a Spark and was worried about adding too much air. Looks like I need to go higher. @@zoubtube
Se puede usar en una escoc espark 960
De qué año es el 960?