This is one of the best guides to servicing this fork, and other forks in general. You gave lots of good tips and insight into how certain things should happen. Tutorials of a shorter format don’t take into account many of the tips you give.
Thank you very much for the kind remark. I know the videos can be a bit long, but the goal is to try and make people feel as comfortable as possible and provide them that touch of confidence needed in order for them to service their own parts to not only save them money, but also better enjoy their bikes. More videos to come
Hey, I just recently got into mountainbiking and when I was reading about service intervals, while I normally do absolutely everything myself on my road and gravel bikes, I was like: I will definitely send this to Fox for the 200h service, what crazy witchcraft is this. Then, I found your videos, and the more I got into them the more confident I got that I could maybe do it myself. While I only own a Float 34 SC fork and a Float SL shock I watched pretty much every single one of your videos, just because I found it valuable to see you work on those parts, to see the similarities and to build some understanding on how these suspensions work. I now ordered all tools needed for servicing my suspension from various aftermarket sources to keep it economical, and I am very keen on getting to the first 200h service :) I would 100% not have done this without your videos. Thank you for your great content!
My sincere apologies for the delayed response. Thank you very much for the kind comment. It makes me very happy to hear that you found the videos informative. Thankfully designers take the serviceability of the products into consideration when developing shocks and forks these days. The first time is intimidating, but once you're done, you will be surprised at the level of confidence you will gain. Technically, I haven't posted a fox 34 step cast video (at least that I remember), but the majority of the service is the same as the fox 34 video. I have a fox float waiting for service, and I will be posting a video on it, but I need some time. I've been significantly delayed the last couple of months due to unexpected family, work and personal issues. I'm hoping to get back on track next week If you have any questions, let me know. I'll do my best to answer them as soon as I can, but there might be some delays as I will most likely have to travel again this week.
Man ! Thank you so much for all this (your time, perfect organisation, readability in your workbench, clarity in your explanations...) This can clearly be a genuine Fox webinar. Tons of tips, infos and skills shared! This one is definitely gold medal! Best regards.
Thank you so much for such a gracious comment. I'm behind on releasing videos because of some unforeseen circumstances but plan on getting back on track soon.👍
Thanks for the reply! I figured I would start another comment so you can get the notification.. Last night I began disassembly and was pleasantly surprised that the five or six year old oil was gold in color and really didn't smell bad considering my neglect. The knocking problem has presented itself, but I haven't reached the proper step to see if anything was damaged. The long dampener tube was just laying in there COMPLETELY UNSCREWED! Have you ever seen this before? I wanted to follow your instructions, so as tempting as it was to dig in and see if there was any damage to the top section of the dampener side where that tube screws in, I wanted to wait until I reached that step. I wrote down every step in your video and it turned out to be 105 steps that I had written down. I will keep you posted on my findings. Everything seems to be going decently well so far. I purchased all of the tools that you suggested and a few extras that I thought might help. Thanks again for the very informative video.
"I figured I would start another comment so you can get the notification" I don't get why I don't see the response to comments like I do actual comments. I honestly don't know how many of these responses I have missed. It was a total fluke when I saw yours "The long dampener tube was just laying in there COMPLETELY UNSCREWED! Have you ever seen this before? " WOW! You're saying that the actual rebound seal head was detached from the damper Tube? No, I've never heard of this. I can't definitely say that this isn't common, as I don't work on a thousand of these a year, but what I can say is "that's NUTS" when considering that not only should there be loctite on those threads, but if memory serves me correctly, the seal head is tightened to around 16nm. That is a significant amount of force, especially with loctite holding it. Did you happen to notice if there was dried loctite on the threads? Was the damper ever serviced before? Make sure to double check the inner tube in order to verify that there is no damage in it, scuff, scratches, etc. If there aren't any, then this will be an easy fix since you will be installing a new rebound seal head and Teflon ring. Sorry that it's such a long video with so many steps, but I tried to make it as easy as possible to follow. If you find ANYTHING wrong with the instructions or the video or can think of ANY way that the video can be improved, please let me know. There is no offending me. Performing these services compared to recording them is two completely different worlds. I'm always looking to improve the process for future videos and still have a lot to learn to do so Awesome Job so far, and keep us all updated, as there might be others out there who have the same experience as you
@@zoubtube Great to hear back from you! I've been working overtime every day and only have a couple hours to go to my shop and work on this, but so far I am pleasantly surprised that there doesn't seem to be any damage on any of these components. I have that side apart now, and pretty much finished up for the night, but I am going to watch that section of your video to see what a proper one looks like. The strangest thing about this whole thing is that there was the strange noise that everybody was trying to pinpoint where it was coming from. It is like a knocking sound, and I am assuming that it led to this. I thought it might have been coming from the bottom bracket or a wheel bearing, something like that. I had to do certain things to produce this knocking but everybody heard it. I am assuming that the problem presented itself with this issue. It just blows my mind that this is a 2018 Fork and it held itself together this long possibly assembled improper from the factory... And I didn't take it easy on it! I will keep you posted as I proceed.
@@zoubtube I will also add that there is no need to apologize for making a video as super informative as yours is for a very intricate task such as this. You had mentioned doing the virtual meeting replacing a spindle on a Race Face crank. If you would like to discuss the issues that I am having with this, I would be totally game for it or even a collaboration of sorts. I don't even know where to start when it comes to that sort of thing, but just throwing that out there. Let me know your thoughts.
Great job dude! thank you for all the time and knowledge you put in! If I may suggest a little trick....when unscrewing or remounting the top caps of both air and damper sides, I experienced this easy rule: go with an acute angle! In a nutshell: the fork flat on the table (bottom fork on your left and top fork on your right), is the optimal position to unscrew the farthest leg or to tighten the fork leg next to you. In the first case apply your wrench with the handle pointing at you, at an acute angle; with one hand hold tight the top tube and socket and the other hand pushing down the handle of the wrench, pointing at you. Wanna unscrew the other leg? Simply rotate the fork on his axis so you have that fork leg far from you. Wanna tighten all together? Apply this rule backwards: you have to go on the fork leg next to you, and pushing the wrench towards the wall. Alwasy use the acute angle rule as your alley to make things easier. Last but not least: lower leg of air side...10cc oil is almost nothing IMO: I always use to put in 20cc
A fantastic video. Very detailed tutorial for this fork which is what I have. Got a slight clunk on the air side so need a service and will defiantly be following your tutorial. Thank you
Glad to hear that you found the video helpful. This fork is a service friendly for imo. Take your time and I'm sure you will be successful servicing it. if you have any questions let me know 👍
@@zoubtube I hope you see this. Is there a difference between this Grip damper and Grip damper on Fox 36 Performance from 2023 Performance Series 36 FLOAT 29 150 Grip? I think I've got air mixed with oil in damper assembly and need to do oil bleed in it. Want to order all required parts and do it myself. Struggling to find the vice shaft grips atm. Will be using your video to follow step by step
sounds like me with taking showers during covid! 🤣 if you do decided to service it, I feel confident in saying that your going to be in for a BIG surprise, in a good way! 😉
Bro, u saved my life🙏. I have the exact Fork and a DPS EVOL Damper, not the Racing version, that u did in the 200h Service Video too.🍀. As if u have done it for me personally😅. I need to do this for the first time and im pretty confident that i can do it myself. Thanks a lot, greets from 🇩🇪.
Great to here both videos will come in handy for you. Get a feel for a couple of the tricky parts, like installing the metering rod o'ring on teh shock, plus the bleeds and I'm sure everything will go well. As always, feel free to ask questions anytime 👍
Thanks. All helpful. One possible error though. You used the term ‘counter-clockwise’ when discussing the closure (firming up) of the damper via blue top cap of the damper, or more specifically the adjustment needle to which the blue cap is attached with a bolt via 2 mm alley key. On my Fox 34 Rhythm with FitGrip (I.e. Grip) damper, the adjustment needle / blue top cap CLOSES when turned clockwise, and OPENS when turned counter-clockwise.
Apologies for the late response. Correct: Counters clockwise to open, clockwise to close. I haven't looked at the video, but if I said otherwise, I most likely mixed up my words without realizing it and probably didn't notice it during the edit in order to correct the text. All these videos are improvised, and many times my mouth has a hard time keeping up with my thoughts. Apologies for any confusion, and I will try to do a better job at finding errors in the post. Thanks for the heads-up
Hai Zoub... I have to say that these videos are perfect guides,but... I have a problem with finding the full rebuild kits,that you use... If you would put them down in to the description. Thank you!
I'm glad to hear you found the videos informative. I added Amazon links for the seal kits and some of the tools in the description section. Or you can use the part number to find them elsewhere for less. I hope this helps, and as always, let me know if there are any other questions
Hello again. Just wanted to let you know that I tried the steps that you suggested. I put the details below. Sent this in case you don't get the notification.
Hi! Yes, I got everything back together and it performed nearly flawless. For some reason, I looked at everything that you mentioned in reference to the lockout issue, and it's still moves a little bit. I never ride with it locked out completely so this really isn't a big deal. I rode all weekend, and didn't take it easy on it. It performed like it did when it was new. Thanks again for all your help. It is still a mystery to me why that damper tube came apart. I suspect that at the factory this could have been overlooked before it was properly torqued with threadlocker. Purely just speculation, but we are all human.
@@themostlymikeshow Excellent. Great to hear that it all worked out. As I previously mentioned, the Grip isn't a 100% full lockout damper. It will get hard to move, but it will sink with enough constant pressure. it's also self regulating. when it ingests extra oil, and air for that matter, it will release it from the bleed hole. based off what you saying. I think you did just fine. As for the tube, you could very well be right. I'm sure the folks at the factory are both pressed and stressed, as are most production lines. got to make the numbers. either way, I'm just glad to you that there wasn't any significant damage done. Now it's time to enjoy the season 👍
Excellent video! Very informative. Thank you! I just ordered all of the tools and things to do my own fork, and hoping that I ordered the correct jaws for clamping the round stuff. I hope that there's no damage beyond repair in mine. Last night I hit a small rock garden, and noted a chhhh type of sound, followed by loud knocking when I hit the next rock garden. I pushed the bike out of the woods, luckily we only got a half mile in. Checked the pressure with my suspension pump, and it was still good, which shocked me to see. I have an MRP Ramp cartridge in mine, do you think that it could have failed, or would you suspect something else? I took lots of notes from your video and have it down as a 105 step process, lol.
I'm glad to hear you found the video informative. It's tough to say if the MRP cartridge failed. If you're sure that the sound came from the air spring side, and you don't see any oil leaking from the wiper or crush washer at the bottom that might have caused a similar sound, then it could very well be possible that the cartridge failed. I know it works with the air pressure in the top tube, so not seeing a pressure drop would make sense if the cartridge fails (unless there was a very noticeable leak elsewhere). My limitation is that I've never opened one up to see what could break inside. Now you have my curiosity. I don't have an answer for this, but I will look into it and get back to you. Thanks
@@zoubtube Hey Zoubtube! Master procrastinator here, lol. Of course I have put this on the back burner until a MTB camping trip next week, and now it's a five alarm fire! I have been riding my spare bike, and now the goal is to make the spare bike the actual spare for this trip. I took really good notes from the last time that I watched this video, and just watched the whole thing again to refresh my memory, and tomorrow, I believe will be the day. I plan to film a short vid showing the condensed highlights of this, and probably will post it on my channel, but I will post links to your channel for the awesome detailed tutorial and give you all of the credit for giving me the ability to take on this task.. I just hope that when it comes apart and the problem presents itself, that it's not beyond repair. Thanks again for posting these very detailed videos. I'll let you know how it goes. Take care.
@@themostlymikeshow I just realized that when someone leaves a comment, I see it. But if someone responds to a comment, it is not visible to me unless I happen to come across it by fluke. I'm not sure how to fix this. I'm curious as well to see what the issue is. If you were near me, I would've serviced it for my own curiosity. Hopefully, it's something simple. But if there isn't anything immediate that points to the MRP Cartridge as the issue, and you're still not sure, I would consider removing the cartridge and going with the stock setup, considering that you're going on a trip Yesterday, I helped someone change a spindle on his raceface crank through a virtual meeting. IT was his first time. Step by step, we went through it, and everything went flawlessly from beginning to end. It piqued my curiosity as to how feasible this would be for bigger jobs. I need to look deeper into this. There is no part of this service that needs to be rushed for this fork so just take your time. If you have any questions let me know, hopefully I see them in time. And let me know how it goes 👍
sure, but I can't give a timeframe on this one as Marzocchi' aren't plentiful around here like fox and rockshox products who pretty much dominate our area. It's just a question of time
Hey mate, love the videos. I actually really enjoy tuning and servicing forks and was just wondering how you started doing it, how did you get so good at it? Also is this a viable job? As in could you make a living off this?
Thanks for the kind comment, and I'm glad to hear you found the video's informative. I've had a love for tearing things down and putting them back together since a young age. My dad, being a mechanic, planted the seed. As for bicycles, I've literally been working on them since I was a kid, but never as a profession. I know a few people who do this for a living. It seems to be feast or famine. I've had one of those technically demanding, high-stress jobs for a very long time now, so this is an escape for me, as is scuba diving, snowboarding, etc. I forget about the world, and I love it! I will admit that recording videos of these jobs definitely presents a new challenge. Slowly, but surely, I'm learning from it. 👍
@@zoubtube I really appreciate your reply, helps put things in perspective. When I was younger the adage "do what you love and the money will follow" seemed to hold truth. But over the last 5-10 years I feel like the economy has increasingly made that idea redundant.
Great explanation of servicing this fork! I have a Orbea OIZ H20 2022 with a 120mm Fox Float Rhythm 32 fork. Bike is new, but the lockout does not work properly. It's not fully locked when the compression needle is fully closed. This bike has a Squidlock remote on the handlebar. Why isn't fully locked? I did unscrew the compression needle counter clockwise a couple of times. Does it need bleeding? The remote lockout didn't worked properly since I bought it. I hope you can help!
Thanks for watching the video. So the fork won't stay 100% locked out when lots of pressure is applied over time. oil will seep through but VEEEEERY slowly. It'll feel locked out but with a super slight slip as you keep applying pressure. if your feeling more movement than this than I'd bet you need a bleed. air in the system will make it feel like it doesn't lock out. This will be felt immediately when you apply pressure. hopefully this makes enough sense so you can have a baseline for comparison. let me know how it goes.
@zoubtube Thank for your fast answer! I accidentally pulled out the compression needle last night! 🫢 Some oil leaked out but I put back the needle immediately. When I turn the blue compression knob (normally operated by the Squidlock remote) I have to apply some force to get the fork fully locked. I have to turn the knob clockwise. With the Squidlock and the Fox Grip the fork is never fully locked. The spring underneath the compression knob doesn't manage to get the fork fully locked. When I remotely lock the fork, the fork is not 100% locked. I have to manually give the compression knob a slight twist (very minimal) clockwise. On my Scott Scale 925 with the same fork, this is not the case. It's 100% locked. Could there be something wrong with the damper cartridge internally? It's a new fork. Is it a problem that there was some oil leaked out after I accidentally toke out the compression needle?
Hey, first of all, thanks for the video. Could you please give a little more information about the tools you use (in the description or a seperate video).
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching the video. But just so I'm clear, what type of info were you looking for with the tools? Or is there a specific tool you were looking for more info on?
@@zoubtube I'm especially interested in the vice clamps. Haven't found them yet. (And don't want to buy the expensive fox ones, wich aren't as versatile as these Thanks for your reply
Ok, I have been doing just a few steps every night, and everything seems to be going decently, nearing the final assembly... but last night, I finished the dampener assembly, and cannot seem to get it to lock. Not sure if I didn't bleed it correctly, or I put something in wrong. It's not making any swish or air sounds when I pump it. I tried tapping on the sides, letting it set for long periods...etc. I am going to disassemble it again today and see if I can get more air to escape. One thing I had a question on was that part with the inner needle and the cap that you said has to be turned together. The needle that connects to the blue knob/switch on top is made of nylon or some kind of plastic. That part, I am assuming shouldn't have loctite on it, right? I am assuming that it has to move, so when I did mine, I screwed it in until the nylon threads were buried, then put a drop of loctite on the metal threads . Would you agree on this? Aside from that, I did the process pretty much verbatim as you did in this video. I almost never lock mine out, but it still nice to have, and I definitely like to do things correctly as well as to understand the inner workings. Hopefully I will figure this out. There doesn't seem to be any damage to any of the parts from the tube coming undone inside . Still a mystery how that happened being that there's a considerable amount of drag on those threads. I'm suspecting that this may have been only installed a few turns at the factory and forgotten about.
Oh, one thing that I forgot to ask in the last comment is that I believe my work is a 120 mm travel. Would you happen to know the amounts of oil that I need to add for that?
Apologies for the delayed response "but last night, I finished the dampener assembly, and cannot seem to get it to lock. Not sure if I didn't bleed it correctly, or I put something in wrong. " If it's bled correctly, and you still get no compression. Then my bet is that the piston is upside down, explained at time stamp 59:39, and/or the spring is pinched and not allowing the check plate to connect to the piston, explained at time stamp 1:00:35. This was what locks the compression. You need to make sure the spring and check plate are able to float after you torque the nut. These two small details are easy to miss, speaking from experience. "The needle that connects to the blue knob/switch on top is made of nylon or some kind of plastic. That part, I am assuming, shouldn't have loctite on it, right? " Correct, not loctite on the knob "I am assuming that it has to move, so when I did mine, I screwed it in until the nylon threads were buried, then put a drop of loctite on the metal threads . Would you agree on this?" You shouldn't need loctite on the threads for the compression knob screw, but if you put a bit it won't hurt "Oh, one thing that I forgot to ask in the last comment is that I believe my work is a 120 mm travel. Would you happen to know the amounts of oil that I need to add for that?" Air side bath = 10CC 2w oil Damper side bath = 40cc 5wt oil (Teflon-infused preferred) Hopefully, this helps. Keep me updated
@@zoubtube Thanks again! I can't wait until I get home from work tomorrow night to see if that check plate is installed correctly. I had it apart, probably while you were typing your reply. I'll let you know what I find.
@@themostlymikeshow Anytime myman! Look at the time stamps I mentioned. Make sure that the single raised ring on the piston faces the shims. Then make sure that the check plate and spring freely float after screwing them down.
@@zoubtube I removed the compression stack and looked for an upside down flying saucer looking thing with the one raised ring toward the shims, and it was correct, as well as the spring and the movement of the check valve that you had mentioned. One thing that I had tried this time, is while doing the bleeding process after watching your video showing this a couple times, is that after pouring the oil in initially, I held my finger over the bleed hole, while stroking the bottom part through its entirety very slowly, and a few big air bubbles came up. I am wondering if that's what the problem was. I originally, just stroked it until the oil made it to the bleed hole and retracted. this time, I took it through its full range of motion several times until there were no burps. Again, I am out of time (bedtime), and came in to re watch the compression stack installation steps to make sure I didn't miss anything... but am off work tomorrow, so hopefully it will lock up this time. If not, I am at wits end, and will probably just ride with it on my trip this weekend, unless you have more Ideas to try. Thanks again for your help.
Thanks for the comment. Great question. There is a Goldilocks zone when it comes to the air spring. I wouldn't go too light, and for most people, I would go a bit heavier because, in reality, most people don't regularly service their fork. We have to take into consideration that grease sticks to everything, and there are many areas that grease can rest on that will prevent it from contracting the seals. That's where a bit extra has major benefits. Too much will be a problem, as you can constantly clog your chamber port
I have the following torque wrenches Snap-on Low torque range ATECH1FR240B Mid torque range ATECH2FR100B My high range torque wrench isn't needed for bike parts The above are overkill for bikes. These were bought a very long time ago for completely different purpose that required high precision. this being said, I still would only buy snap on torque wrenches. They are all very precise, very durable, and most important, easily serviceable. they truly are a lifetime product. BUT, the are STUPID expensive now. Another solid brand for torque wrenches, at least imo, is tekton. Below is a link to a low range version with very high reviews at a good price www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL2EG?linkCode=sl1&tag=js46369-20&linkId=d5ff3718be4922eb3d1307baee811d3c&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl&th=1 Just remember to ALWAYS reset a click style torque wrench to zero after your done with it. Do not leave it sitting at any torque value when at rest as it will degrade the spring which will make the tool in accurate. Do this and it should last for a very long time Hope this helps 👍
Per Fox service recommendation. 20wt should be used to soak the damper side foam ring as it is MUCH better at collecting dirt than 5wt oil is. The foam ring has two jobs, sustain lubrication AND to help collect dirt that make it into the system. This is why the 50 hour service is so important. Per Fox, when using 20wt oil to soak the foam ring it will have NO effect on the 5wt oil in the lower boot. Hopefully this helps
Does the Fox Rhythm 34 use the same sealhead as the other Fox 34 forks? Reason for asking is that I would like to see if there's an option to upgrade this part on the Rhythm 34
I'm unable to answer that one. Outside of between different generations, I would have to say no. In the same generation, it's "possible", but at what cost and what return? Let me know the year of your rhythm when you get a moment. Thanks
Hi i have a FOX 34 Float Performance GRIP but its 2022 Model. I unscrewed my damper adjustment dial to clean it. I turned on the „naked“ screw/nut with my hand to check the function of the modes, all worked fine. I just turned it a little bit too much out and a tiny bit of oil leaked out smoothly as i compressed the fork (on the bike) a little bit. I immediately screwed it back checked everything a thousand times and everything seemed fine so far. It was just a bit oil, 1/2 filling the space around that dial fitting. Is that a problem now? Since i did not see or hear air coming out. Hopefully i must not bleed it now is my worry…
Good question. The GRIP is very forgiving. this shouldn't be an issue for you. The damper will bleed itself to a certain point it if it needs to, and oil will ingest from the lower into the upper over time. Unless you hear air squishing constantly you should be good. thanks for the comment
looking at my damper and noticed it won't fully extend I have to pull it out about 1.5" Is it bad? i don't have clean shop space to replace its seals like in video would just bleeding it help?
Just so I'm clear, Is it the assembled fork that won't fully extend on it own, or just the damper body when it's removed from the fork? then answer to this makes a big difference for a response
I have a FOX 34 Float Rhythm 130mm Fork on my Scott Spark 390. I broke the tip of the rebound needle. I can still change the rebound with the knob but would like to fix it. Do I need a new rod or just the needle to fix it? What would be the easiest fix? Mark
@@zoubtube cant fond the tune id. here is the serial number etc. 2022 Rhythm Series 34 FLOAT 29 130 Grip Serial number: 822964-0517-T Part number: 910-30-713 Description: 2022, 34, A, FLOAT, 29in, Rhythm, 130, Grip, Remote, Psh-Lk, (10pm CP), Shiny Blk, YS-9042-2_Gloss/YS-941_Matte Logo, 15QRx110, 1.5 T, 44mm Rake, OE
Please tell me what are the diameters of the holes in the shaft clamp, I want to make a 3d model Fox Forks#1: Grip#1, Grip#2, RC2 Body, RC2 Light, 29mm(understandable), 1"(is it one inch?), Fit Body, 10mm(understandable)
The following is what I measure with the caliper at opposite ends when clamped together. I measure 1mm more for each hole when measuring at the widest point when holding only 1 side of the jaw. My guess is since these are aluminum, the wholes are cnc'ed first then about 1mm of material is lost during the length cut. grip 1 - 21.09 grip 2 -21.5 RC2 body - 16.28 RC2 light - 15.88 fit body - 15.56 x2 air sleeve - 42.13 X2 body - 31.75
I wouldn't. PM600 is significantly thicker than sram butter, slick honey. slickoleum etc. most newer fork seals don't need a thicker grease as the did in the past. You can buy a small amount of any of the recommended greases if you only need a bit
This is one of the best guides to servicing this fork, and other forks in general. You gave lots of good tips and insight into how certain things should happen. Tutorials of a shorter format don’t take into account many of the tips you give.
Thank you very much for the kind remark. I know the videos can be a bit long, but the goal is to try and make people feel as comfortable as possible and provide them that touch of confidence needed in order for them to service their own parts to not only save them money, but also better enjoy their bikes. More videos to come
Have been watching a few of them now and i have to say TOP notch content - really appreciate your work!
Hey, I just recently got into mountainbiking and when I was reading about service intervals, while I normally do absolutely everything myself on my road and gravel bikes, I was like: I will definitely send this to Fox for the 200h service, what crazy witchcraft is this.
Then, I found your videos, and the more I got into them the more confident I got that I could maybe do it myself. While I only own a Float 34 SC fork and a Float SL shock I watched pretty much every single one of your videos, just because I found it valuable to see you work on those parts, to see the similarities and to build some understanding on how these suspensions work. I now ordered all tools needed for servicing my suspension from various aftermarket sources to keep it economical, and I am very keen on getting to the first 200h service :)
I would 100% not have done this without your videos. Thank you for your great content!
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
Thank you very much for the kind comment. It makes me very happy to hear that you found the videos informative. Thankfully designers take the serviceability of the products into consideration when developing shocks and forks these days. The first time is intimidating, but once you're done, you will be surprised at the level of confidence you will gain.
Technically, I haven't posted a fox 34 step cast video (at least that I remember), but the majority of the service is the same as the fox 34 video. I have a fox float waiting for service, and I will be posting a video on it, but I need some time. I've been significantly delayed the last couple of months due to unexpected family, work and personal issues. I'm hoping to get back on track next week
If you have any questions, let me know. I'll do my best to answer them as soon as I can, but there might be some delays as I will most likely have to travel again this week.
Man !
Thank you so much for all this (your time, perfect organisation, readability in your workbench, clarity in your explanations...)
This can clearly be a genuine Fox webinar.
Tons of tips, infos and skills shared!
This one is definitely gold medal!
Best regards.
Thank you so much for such a gracious comment. I'm behind on releasing videos because of some unforeseen circumstances but plan on getting back on track soon.👍
Thanks for the reply! I figured I would start another comment so you can get the notification.. Last night I began disassembly and was pleasantly surprised that the five or six year old oil was gold in color and really didn't smell bad considering my neglect. The knocking problem has presented itself, but I haven't reached the proper step to see if anything was damaged. The long dampener tube was just laying in there COMPLETELY UNSCREWED! Have you ever seen this before? I wanted to follow your instructions, so as tempting as it was to dig in and see if there was any damage to the top section of the dampener side where that tube screws in, I wanted to wait until I reached that step. I wrote down every step in your video and it turned out to be 105 steps that I had written down. I will keep you posted on my findings. Everything seems to be going decently well so far. I purchased all of the tools that you suggested and a few extras that I thought might help. Thanks again for the very informative video.
"I figured I would start another comment so you can get the notification"
I don't get why I don't see the response to comments like I do actual comments. I honestly don't know how many of these responses I have missed. It was a total fluke when I saw yours
"The long dampener tube was just laying in there COMPLETELY UNSCREWED! Have you ever seen this before? "
WOW! You're saying that the actual rebound seal head was detached from the damper Tube? No, I've never heard of this. I can't definitely say that this isn't common, as I don't work on a thousand of these a year, but what I can say is "that's NUTS" when considering that not only should there be loctite on those threads, but if memory serves me correctly, the seal head is tightened to around 16nm. That is a significant amount of force, especially with loctite holding it.
Did you happen to notice if there was dried loctite on the threads? Was the damper ever serviced before?
Make sure to double check the inner tube in order to verify that there is no damage in it, scuff, scratches, etc. If there aren't any, then this will be an easy fix since you will be installing a new rebound seal head and Teflon ring.
Sorry that it's such a long video with so many steps, but I tried to make it as easy as possible to follow. If you find ANYTHING wrong with the instructions or the video or can think of ANY way that the video can be improved, please let me know. There is no offending me. Performing these services compared to recording them is two completely different worlds. I'm always looking to improve the process for future videos and still have a lot to learn to do so
Awesome Job so far, and keep us all updated, as there might be others out there who have the same experience as you
@@zoubtube Great to hear back from you! I've been working overtime every day and only have a couple hours to go to my shop and work on this, but so far I am pleasantly surprised that there doesn't seem to be any damage on any of these components. I have that side apart now, and pretty much finished up for the night, but I am going to watch that section of your video to see what a proper one looks like.
The strangest thing about this whole thing is that there was the strange noise that everybody was trying to pinpoint where it was coming from. It is like a knocking sound, and I am assuming that it led to this. I thought it might have been coming from the bottom bracket or a wheel bearing, something like that. I had to do certain things to produce this knocking but everybody heard it. I am assuming that the problem presented itself with this issue. It just blows my mind that this is a 2018 Fork and it held itself together this long possibly assembled improper from the factory... And I didn't take it easy on it! I will keep you posted as I proceed.
@@zoubtube I will also add that there is no need to apologize for making a video as super informative as yours is for a very intricate task such as this. You had mentioned doing the virtual meeting replacing a spindle on a Race Face crank. If you would like to discuss the issues that I am having with this, I would be totally game for it or even a collaboration of sorts. I don't even know where to start when it comes to that sort of thing, but just throwing that out there. Let me know your thoughts.
Super helpful. Following along to this I could've been mistaken for a real bike mechanic.
Super glad to hear it worked out for you. If there any questions let m e know!
Great job dude! thank you for all the time and knowledge you put in!
If I may suggest a little trick....when unscrewing or remounting the top caps of both air and damper sides, I experienced this easy rule: go with an acute angle! In a nutshell: the fork flat on the table (bottom fork on your left and top fork on your right), is the optimal position to unscrew the farthest leg or to tighten the fork leg next to you. In the first case apply your wrench with the handle pointing at you, at an acute angle; with one hand hold tight the top tube and socket and the other hand pushing down the handle of the wrench, pointing at you. Wanna unscrew the other leg? Simply rotate the fork on his axis so you have that fork leg far from you.
Wanna tighten all together? Apply this rule backwards: you have to go on the fork leg next to you, and pushing the wrench towards the wall. Alwasy use the acute angle rule as your alley to make things easier.
Last but not least: lower leg of air side...10cc oil is almost nothing IMO: I always use to put in 20cc
Thanks for the tips, my man. I always appreciate input that helps make a process easier 👍
A fantastic video. Very detailed tutorial for this fork which is what I have. Got a slight clunk on the air side so need a service and will defiantly be following your tutorial. Thank you
Glad to hear that you found the video helpful. This fork is a service friendly for imo. Take your time and I'm sure you will be successful servicing it. if you have any questions let me know 👍
Best guide on RUclips.
Thanks for the kind words and for taking the time to watch the video. more videos to come
@@zoubtube I hope you see this. Is there a difference between this Grip damper and Grip damper on Fox 36 Performance from 2023 Performance Series 36 FLOAT 29 150 Grip? I think I've got air mixed with oil in damper assembly and need to do oil bleed in it. Want to order all required parts and do it myself. Struggling to find the vice shaft grips atm. Will be using your video to follow step by step
My fork is 5 years old and has about 6000km without any service so far, but i think i should service it by now😂
sounds like me with taking showers during covid! 🤣 if you do decided to service it, I feel confident in saying that your going to be in for a BIG surprise, in a good way! 😉
#metoo 😂
Bro, u saved my life🙏.
I have the exact Fork and a DPS EVOL Damper, not the Racing version, that u did in the 200h Service Video too.🍀. As if u have done it for me personally😅. I need to do this for the first time and im pretty confident that i can do it myself.
Thanks a lot, greets from 🇩🇪.
Great to here both videos will come in handy for you. Get a feel for a couple of the tricky parts, like installing the metering rod o'ring on teh shock, plus the bleeds and I'm sure everything will go well. As always, feel free to ask questions anytime 👍
@@zoubtube u explained and showed it si Well, for me its like ive done it already 😅.
Great advice, excellently executed work in an extremely clean environment. Thank you very much, this is so helpful!
Thanks for the gracious comment and I'm very glad to hear that you found it helpful. If you have any questions feel free to ask. more videos to come 👍
Thanks. All helpful. One possible error though. You used the term ‘counter-clockwise’ when discussing the closure (firming up) of the damper via blue top cap of the damper, or more specifically the adjustment needle to which the blue cap is attached with a bolt via 2 mm alley key. On my Fox 34 Rhythm with FitGrip (I.e. Grip) damper, the adjustment needle / blue top cap CLOSES when turned clockwise, and OPENS when turned counter-clockwise.
Apologies for the late response. Correct: Counters clockwise to open, clockwise to close. I haven't looked at the video, but if I said otherwise, I most likely mixed up my words without realizing it and probably didn't notice it during the edit in order to correct the text. All these videos are improvised, and many times my mouth has a hard time keeping up with my thoughts. Apologies for any confusion, and I will try to do a better job at finding errors in the post. Thanks for the heads-up
Very nice full video tutorial.. thanks and more video tutorials to come..
Glad to hear you enjoyed the video. More videos to come. If you have any questions just let me know
Sir after i watch your video i try to my fork lowers service.. but there’s a squeaky sound when i cycle the fork. What can i do??
Thank you..
Outstanding. Thank you.
Thank you for watching. let me know if there any questions
Absolutely awesome job!! Thanks so much for sharing all the tips. Gave me the confidence to do it myself. 👊🏼🤘🏼
myman, this comment just made my day! 🤗Thank you for watching and if you have any questions let me know
Hai Zoub...
I have to say that these videos are perfect guides,but...
I have a problem with finding the full rebuild kits,that you use...
If you would put them down in to the description.
Thank you!
I'm glad to hear you found the videos informative. I added Amazon links for the seal kits and some of the tools in the description section. Or you can use the part number to find them elsewhere for less. I hope this helps, and as always, let me know if there are any other questions
Hello again. Just wanted to let you know that I tried the steps that you suggested. I put the details below. Sent this in case you don't get the notification.
Yup, I saw that earlier in the day an posted a response. let me know how it goes
any updates on the fork? to you get it ready for the trip?
Hi! Yes, I got everything back together and it performed nearly flawless. For some reason, I looked at everything that you mentioned in reference to the lockout issue, and it's still moves a little bit. I never ride with it locked out completely so this really isn't a big deal. I rode all weekend, and didn't take it easy on it. It performed like it did when it was new. Thanks again for all your help. It is still a mystery to me why that damper tube came apart. I suspect that at the factory this could have been overlooked before it was properly torqued with threadlocker. Purely just speculation, but we are all human.
@@themostlymikeshow Excellent. Great to hear that it all worked out. As I previously mentioned, the Grip isn't a 100% full lockout damper. It will get hard to move, but it will sink with enough constant pressure. it's also self regulating. when it ingests extra oil, and air for that matter, it will release it from the bleed hole. based off what you saying. I think you did just fine.
As for the tube, you could very well be right. I'm sure the folks at the factory are both pressed and stressed, as are most production lines. got to make the numbers. either way, I'm just glad to you that there wasn't any significant damage done.
Now it's time to enjoy the season 👍
Thank you for the awesome video 🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
Glad you found it helpful. let me know if there are any questions
Awesome, thank you very much!!!
Glad to here the video was helpful. let me know if there are any questions 👍
Excellent video! Very informative. Thank you! I just ordered all of the tools and things to do my own fork, and hoping that I ordered the correct jaws for clamping the round stuff. I hope that there's no damage beyond repair in mine. Last night I hit a small rock garden, and noted a chhhh type of sound, followed by loud knocking when I hit the next rock garden. I pushed the bike out of the woods, luckily we only got a half mile in. Checked the pressure with my suspension pump, and it was still good, which shocked me to see. I have an MRP Ramp cartridge in mine, do you think that it could have failed, or would you suspect something else? I took lots of notes from your video and have it down as a 105 step process, lol.
I'm glad to hear you found the video informative. It's tough to say if the MRP cartridge failed. If you're sure that the sound came from the air spring side, and you don't see any oil leaking from the wiper or crush washer at the bottom that might have caused a similar sound, then it could very well be possible that the cartridge failed. I know it works with the air pressure in the top tube, so not seeing a pressure drop would make sense if the cartridge fails (unless there was a very noticeable leak elsewhere). My limitation is that I've never opened one up to see what could break inside. Now you have my curiosity. I don't have an answer for this, but I will look into it and get back to you. Thanks
@@zoubtube Hey Zoubtube! Master procrastinator here, lol. Of course I have put this on the back burner until a MTB camping trip next week, and now it's a five alarm fire! I have been riding my spare bike, and now the goal is to make the spare bike the actual spare for this trip. I took really good notes from the last time that I watched this video, and just watched the whole thing again to refresh my memory, and tomorrow, I believe will be the day. I plan to film a short vid showing the condensed highlights of this, and probably will post it on my channel, but I will post links to your channel for the awesome detailed tutorial and give you all of the credit for giving me the ability to take on this task.. I just hope that when it comes apart and the problem presents itself, that it's not beyond repair. Thanks again for posting these very detailed videos. I'll let you know how it goes. Take care.
@@themostlymikeshow I just realized that when someone leaves a comment, I see it. But if someone responds to a comment, it is not visible to me unless I happen to come across it by fluke. I'm not sure how to fix this.
I'm curious as well to see what the issue is. If you were near me, I would've serviced it for my own curiosity. Hopefully, it's something simple. But if there isn't anything immediate that points to the MRP Cartridge as the issue, and you're still not sure, I would consider removing the cartridge and going with the stock setup, considering that you're going on a trip
Yesterday, I helped someone change a spindle on his raceface crank through a virtual meeting. IT was his first time. Step by step, we went through it, and everything went flawlessly from beginning to end. It piqued my curiosity as to how feasible this would be for bigger jobs. I need to look deeper into this.
There is no part of this service that needs to be rushed for this fork so just take your time. If you have any questions let me know, hopefully I see them in time. And let me know how it goes 👍
Could you do a video on the Z2's RAIL damper? Thanks!!
sure, but I can't give a timeframe on this one as Marzocchi' aren't plentiful around here like fox and rockshox products who pretty much dominate our area. It's just a question of time
Thanks MEN!❤
Glad to hear you liked the video and thanks for the comment 👍
Hey mate, love the videos. I actually really enjoy tuning and servicing forks and was just wondering how you started doing it, how did you get so good at it? Also is this a viable job? As in could you make a living off this?
Thanks for the kind comment, and I'm glad to hear you found the video's informative. I've had a love for tearing things down and putting them back together since a young age. My dad, being a mechanic, planted the seed. As for bicycles, I've literally been working on them since I was a kid, but never as a profession. I know a few people who do this for a living. It seems to be feast or famine. I've had one of those technically demanding, high-stress jobs for a very long time now, so this is an escape for me, as is scuba diving, snowboarding, etc. I forget about the world, and I love it! I will admit that recording videos of these jobs definitely presents a new challenge. Slowly, but surely, I'm learning from it. 👍
@@zoubtube I really appreciate your reply, helps put things in perspective. When I was younger the adage "do what you love and the money will follow" seemed to hold truth. But over the last 5-10 years I feel like the economy has increasingly made that idea redundant.
Great explanation of servicing this fork! I have a Orbea OIZ H20 2022 with a 120mm Fox Float Rhythm 32 fork. Bike is new, but the lockout does not work properly. It's not fully locked when the compression needle is fully closed. This bike has a Squidlock remote on the handlebar. Why isn't fully locked? I did unscrew the compression needle counter clockwise a couple of times. Does it need bleeding? The remote lockout didn't worked properly since I bought it. I hope you can help!
Thanks for watching the video. So the fork won't stay 100% locked out when lots of pressure is applied over time. oil will seep through but VEEEEERY slowly. It'll feel locked out but with a super slight slip as you keep applying pressure. if your feeling more movement than this than I'd bet you need a bleed. air in the system will make it feel like it doesn't lock out. This will be felt immediately when you apply pressure. hopefully this makes enough sense so you can have a baseline for comparison. let me know how it goes.
@zoubtube Thank for your fast answer! I accidentally pulled out the compression needle last night! 🫢 Some oil leaked out but I put back the needle immediately. When I turn the blue compression knob (normally operated by the Squidlock remote) I have to apply some force to get the fork fully locked. I have to turn the knob clockwise. With the Squidlock and the Fox Grip the fork is never fully locked. The spring underneath the compression knob doesn't manage to get the fork fully locked. When I remotely lock the fork, the fork is not 100% locked. I have to manually give the compression knob a slight twist (very minimal) clockwise. On my Scott Scale 925 with the same fork, this is not the case. It's 100% locked. Could there be something wrong with the damper cartridge internally? It's a new fork. Is it a problem that there was some oil leaked out after I accidentally toke out the compression needle?
Hey,
first of all, thanks for the video. Could you please give a little more information about the tools you use (in the description or a seperate video).
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching the video. But just so I'm clear, what type of info were you looking for with the tools? Or is there a specific tool you were looking for more info on?
@@zoubtube I'm especially interested in the vice clamps. Haven't found them yet. (And don't want to buy the expensive fox ones, wich aren't as versatile as these
Thanks for your reply
Felicitaciones✌, desde Colombia, Style Rider Bike💯
Thank you for taking your time to watch the videos. I hope that they will help you one day 👍
Ok, I have been doing just a few steps every night, and everything seems to be going decently, nearing the final assembly... but last night, I finished the dampener assembly, and cannot seem to get it to lock. Not sure if I didn't bleed it correctly, or I put something in wrong. It's not making any swish or air sounds when I pump it. I tried tapping on the sides, letting it set for long periods...etc. I am going to disassemble it again today and see if I can get more air to escape.
One thing I had a question on was that part with the inner needle and the cap that you said has to be turned together. The needle that connects to the blue knob/switch on top is made of nylon or some kind of plastic. That part, I am assuming shouldn't have loctite on it, right? I am assuming that it has to move, so when I did mine, I screwed it in until the nylon threads were buried, then put a drop of loctite on the metal threads . Would you agree on this? Aside from that, I did the process pretty much verbatim as you did in this video.
I almost never lock mine out, but it still nice to have, and I definitely like to do things correctly as well as to understand the inner workings. Hopefully I will figure this out. There doesn't seem to be any damage to any of the parts from the tube coming undone inside . Still a mystery how that happened being that there's a considerable amount of drag on those threads. I'm suspecting that this may have been only installed a few turns at the factory and forgotten about.
Oh, one thing that I forgot to ask in the last comment is that I believe my work is a 120 mm travel. Would you happen to know the amounts of oil that I need to add for that?
Apologies for the delayed response
"but last night, I finished the dampener assembly, and cannot seem to get it to lock. Not sure if I didn't bleed it correctly, or I put something in wrong. "
If it's bled correctly, and you still get no compression. Then my bet is that the piston is upside down, explained at time stamp 59:39, and/or the spring is pinched and not allowing the check plate to connect to the piston, explained at time stamp 1:00:35. This was what locks the compression. You need to make sure the spring and check plate are able to float after you torque the nut. These two small details are easy to miss, speaking from experience.
"The needle that connects to the blue knob/switch on top is made of nylon or some kind of plastic. That part, I am assuming, shouldn't have loctite on it, right? "
Correct, not loctite on the knob
"I am assuming that it has to move, so when I did mine, I screwed it in until the nylon threads were buried, then put a drop of loctite on the metal threads . Would you agree on this?"
You shouldn't need loctite on the threads for the compression knob screw, but if you put a bit it won't hurt
"Oh, one thing that I forgot to ask in the last comment is that I believe my work is a 120 mm travel. Would you happen to know the amounts of oil that I need to add for that?"
Air side bath = 10CC 2w oil
Damper side bath = 40cc 5wt oil (Teflon-infused preferred)
Hopefully, this helps. Keep me updated
@@zoubtube Thanks again! I can't wait until I get home from work tomorrow night to see if that check plate is installed correctly. I had it apart, probably while you were typing your reply. I'll let you know what I find.
@@themostlymikeshow Anytime myman! Look at the time stamps I mentioned. Make sure that the single raised ring on the piston faces the shims. Then make sure that the check plate and spring freely float after screwing them down.
@@zoubtube I removed the compression stack and looked for an upside down flying saucer looking thing with the one raised ring toward the shims, and it was correct, as well as the spring and the movement of the check valve that you had mentioned.
One thing that I had tried this time, is while doing the bleeding process after watching your video showing this a couple times, is that after pouring the oil in initially, I held my finger over the bleed hole, while stroking the bottom part through its entirety very slowly, and a few big air bubbles came up. I am wondering if that's what the problem was. I originally, just stroked it until the oil made it to the bleed hole and retracted. this time, I took it through its full range of motion several times until there were no burps.
Again, I am out of time (bedtime), and came in to re watch the compression stack installation steps to make sure I didn't miss anything... but am off work tomorrow, so hopefully it will lock up this time. If not, I am at wits end, and will probably just ride with it on my trip this weekend, unless you have more Ideas to try. Thanks again for your help.
superb video. just question - do you think less grease on the air piston might be better?
Thanks for the comment. Great question. There is a Goldilocks zone when it comes to the air spring. I wouldn't go too light, and for most people, I would go a bit heavier because, in reality, most people don't regularly service their fork. We have to take into consideration that grease sticks to everything, and there are many areas that grease can rest on that will prevent it from contracting the seals. That's where a bit extra has major benefits. Too much will be a problem, as you can constantly clog your chamber port
Great video. thx a lot.
Glad to hear the video was helpful for you, and thank you for the comment 👍
Thanks alot!
Hopefully it helped out. let em know if you have any questions
What torque wrench do you use? Having a difficult time finding one that has the low range necessary for this job.
I have the following torque wrenches
Snap-on
Low torque range ATECH1FR240B
Mid torque range ATECH2FR100B
My high range torque wrench isn't needed for bike parts
The above are overkill for bikes. These were bought a very long time ago for completely different purpose that required high precision. this being said, I still would only buy snap on torque wrenches. They are all very precise, very durable, and most important, easily serviceable. they truly are a lifetime product. BUT, the are STUPID expensive now.
Another solid brand for torque wrenches, at least imo, is tekton. Below is a link to a low range version with very high reviews at a good price
www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL2EG?linkCode=sl1&tag=js46369-20&linkId=d5ff3718be4922eb3d1307baee811d3c&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl&th=1
Just remember to ALWAYS reset a click style torque wrench to zero after your done with it. Do not leave it sitting at any torque value when at rest as it will degrade the spring which will make the tool in accurate. Do this and it should last for a very long time
Hope this helps 👍
@@zoubtube Thank you! Video is top notch and super informative.
Does the XFusion Slide boost 34 RC fork cartridge damper can be serviced in this same process?
I could be wrong, but I think the xfusion is a bladder based system which would make it a completely different damper service
Why do you put both the foam rings in the 20wt oil when the one stanchion is filled with 5wt? Why not soak one foam ring in 5wt oil?
Per Fox service recommendation. 20wt should be used to soak the damper side foam ring as it is MUCH better at collecting dirt than 5wt oil is. The foam ring has two jobs, sustain lubrication AND to help collect dirt that make it into the system. This is why the 50 hour service is so important. Per Fox, when using 20wt oil to soak the foam ring it will have NO effect on the 5wt oil in the lower boot. Hopefully this helps
Thanks
thanks for taking your time to watch the video and for comment 👍
Большое тебе спасибо!
Надеюсь, видео поможет вам. Спасибо за просмотр 👍
Is this fork ok new for 150€? would be upgrade from my recon silver rl?
imo, yes. the grip is actually a good damper and it's easy to maintain. Overall, I would say that the Rhythm is a solid step up over the rekon silver.
Does the Fox Rhythm 34 use the same sealhead as the other Fox 34 forks? Reason for asking is that I would like to see if there's an option to upgrade this part on the Rhythm 34
I'm unable to answer that one. Outside of between different generations, I would have to say no. In the same generation, it's "possible", but at what cost and what return? Let me know the year of your rhythm when you get a moment. Thanks
Hi i have a FOX 34 Float Performance GRIP but its 2022 Model. I unscrewed my damper adjustment dial to clean it. I turned on the „naked“ screw/nut with my hand to check the function of the modes, all worked fine. I just turned it a little bit too much out and a tiny bit of oil leaked out smoothly as i compressed the fork (on the bike) a little bit. I immediately screwed it back checked everything a thousand times and everything seemed fine so far. It was just a bit oil, 1/2 filling the space around that dial fitting. Is that a problem now? Since i did not see or hear air coming out. Hopefully i must not bleed it now is my worry…
Good question. The GRIP is very forgiving. this shouldn't be an issue for you. The damper will bleed itself to a certain point it if it needs to, and oil will ingest from the lower into the upper over time. Unless you hear air squishing constantly you should be good. thanks for the comment
Thank you for the response! I tested everything now on two rides and it seems i got lucky. No issues so far! Great video, I subscribed ❤
looking at my damper and noticed it won't fully extend I have to pull it out about 1.5" Is it bad? i don't have clean shop space to replace its seals like in video would just bleeding it help?
Just so I'm clear, Is it the assembled fork that won't fully extend on it own, or just the damper body when it's removed from the fork? then answer to this makes a big difference for a response
I have a FOX 34 Float Rhythm 130mm Fork on my Scott Spark 390. I broke the tip of the rebound needle. I can still change the rebound with the knob but would like to fix it. Do I need a new rod or just the needle to fix it? What would be the easiest fix? Mark
Just so I'm clear, the needle rod in the damper shaft is broken? what year?
It's on a 2022 Scott Spark so I imagine a 2021 or 2022. but not sure. @@zoubtube
do you have the tune id?
@@zoubtube cant fond the tune id. here is the serial number etc.
2022 Rhythm Series 34 FLOAT 29 130 Grip
Serial number: 822964-0517-T
Part number: 910-30-713
Description: 2022, 34, A, FLOAT, 29in, Rhythm, 130, Grip, Remote, Psh-Lk, (10pm CP), Shiny Blk, YS-9042-2_Gloss/YS-941_Matte Logo, 15QRx110, 1.5 T, 44mm Rake, OE
Отличное видео, спасибо!
Рада что тебе понравилось. Я надеюсь, что это окажется полезным
Please tell me what are the diameters of the holes in the shaft clamp, I want to make a 3d model
Fox Forks#1: Grip#1, Grip#2, RC2 Body, RC2 Light, 29mm(understandable), 1"(is it one inch?), Fit Body, 10mm(understandable)
The following is what I measure with the caliper at opposite ends when clamped together. I measure 1mm more for each hole when measuring at the widest point when holding only 1 side of the jaw. My guess is since these are aluminum, the wholes are cnc'ed first then about 1mm of material is lost during the length cut.
grip 1 - 21.09
grip 2 -21.5
RC2 body - 16.28
RC2 light - 15.88
fit body - 15.56
x2 air sleeve - 42.13
X2 body - 31.75
Great, thank you.@@zoubtube
can i use pm600 military grease instead of sram butter ?
I wouldn't. PM600 is significantly thicker than sram butter, slick honey. slickoleum etc. most newer fork seals don't need a thicker grease as the did in the past. You can buy a small amount of any of the recommended greases if you only need a bit
1:07:39 story of my life brother
🤣🤣you and me are on the same boat. hopefully it stays afloat! 😁