This is as straight forward as i thought it would be. Thanks for the video and the effort you put into editing. Also, a huge plus for not being another idiot on RUclips. The content here is definitely quality.
Mate , i am a springmaker from Australia. my comment is to use a press to remove the bush in one motion. Don't ever paint a leaf spring unless is assembled! using a thin coat of laquer. the spring will not be tight at the centrebolt after rust and wear and tear. u bolts will become loose and the centrebolt will break. nice video mate
Yah, There's really a lot more going on with springs than most people think. I was going to point out too that you shouldn't ever paint the springs except as an assembly. Most of the modern spring steel, SAE 5160 should never be exposed to oils either. I would avoid any grinding to remove rust. Actually a sandblaster probably is best as it would slightly peen the surface and remove any stress risers. Best way to remove the bushing is by press or I've used a drill bit about the thickness of the edge of the bushing and 'walked' it around to peel the rubber out.
@@cubul32 Springs leaves move and rub against each other or the inter liner. If you paint them assembled, they will eventually rust. If you paint them disassembled they will rub the paint off(and possibly bind) and eventually rust. Just paint them as a unit. Don't try and re-invent the wheel.
Years ago I had a project requiring used leaf springs. Out side the garage there was leaf springs off an old AMC Eagle rusted from the Pa winter salted roads. When I removed the CENTER BOLT and the leaves came apart there was a thin piece of factory installed zink strips about 8 inches long at the CENTER BOLT. Where the zink strip was unbelievable brand new metal. Where the CENTER BOLT is the springs hold more water and salt. The spring gets bridle from the rust and breaks a lot of times at the CENTER BOLT. With the zink strips there's no rust hence no embrittlement. I have seen zink templates (for a better word) between aluminum wheels and the hub to stop dissimilar metal corrosion.
I put a little bit of grease in the Ferch and pads on my 06 power waggon many years ago and I made a great difference on the flexibility and ride so I believe and restoring your old leaf springs by clean them up and put a little bit of lube or the friction! Again, good video
I never use a torch but you sold me on buying one when I do this on my silverado 1500 thank you lol that was cool when you punched it out and that smoke came out
Ha, yeah I missed getting that on camera, but it was the easiest part of the entire project. They just slide in, didn't even have to use a hammer. Thanks for watching
Get a map gas torch much hotter then propane. Map gas torch heat then outside around metal sleeve it will expand and the drive metal sleeve out. I’ve never rebuilt a spring like this. Very well done.
@@Offroadfarm1 You're very Welcome Sir! and also thank you for saving me the $200 bucks i was going to spend on new ones. Was outside today surveying as i am doing a frame & component restoration. And yes i hit your Subscribe button. Have a great day and stay safe and healthy!
Watched this to see if you used any heat. A spring shop told me they could restore them that way because they sagging. Within a month both had broke!!! This was on the steering axle of an 83 359 Pete! If you have sagging springs just buy some new ones. Great video....no heat!!!
Don't paint in between the leaves. When the paint wears out the center pin will be loose. Also heating them up is not a good idea but if you do, be careful not to heat up the springs.
What do you do to stop rust from forming in between the springs, if you shouldn't paint there? I bought new springs on clearance sale, and the paint has been chipped, so was planning on repainting. However, just being rained on for a week, rust has started forming between the leafs already! I'd prefer my new springs don't rust away from the inside out, so what should I do?
@@adamkarlovsky6015 Some people oil them but I have heard that it could also damage them in the long run. Try silicone based lubricant. It has been a while since I last did research on this and I always recommend doing your own research before trusting the "guy on the internet".
Sorry, but sprints don't typically move that much. They flex. I have been working on pre-1915 cars for over 40 years, and I remove all the rust, clean and paint every leaf. If they AREN'T painted, THEN they will rust, and the loosening of the center bolt will happen, not because they were painted, but because they developed a layer of rust, that then flakes out. If you ever buy a new spring, you will see every leaf is painted.
@offroadfarm great video, might I suggest another way to use heat to remove your bushings. Instead of heating the inside/center, heat the outside. Doing it that way helps eliminate the nasty burnt rubber stink, and takes less time. In the case of bushings with an outer metal sleeve, heat outside - knock out the bushing and then take some type of saw (hack or coping or whatever you can easily detach and reattach)stick the blade down the hole and saw through it. Then just knock it out what a screw driver. Same idea of knowing when you got it hot enough, the rubber will start to melt/sizzle. The best bonus is that when you heat it up from the outside, the metal should still be hot (aka it is still expanded) making it easier to slip the new bushing in there. 😃
If you heat the eye enough it will ruin the temper. Heating the center eliminates that worry! I’d use a drill though because I hate melting plastic stink.
Torch for the win 😂 I remember the first time I got to use a O A torch at welding school to get stuck inner race out of my Honda 4 wheeler front hubs I got them so hot that I had to replace ball joints bc welded them in the position they where in 😂 I lived and learned that day
You can also borrow a hand press from any major autoparts store. Free as long as you return it. That how I did all the front and rear suspension bushings in mine. Super easy.
great video i'am getting to start on 47 lincoln continental bad sag in front fender low enough you cant turn wheels -going to try to raise body up and put shims on top of spring -front single spring-i like the small torch ---any suggestion thanks
I heat the bushing from the spring side, then take a hacksaw, remove the blade, reassemble it with the blade inside the hole, then saw out your outer bushing sleeve.
I got the Bauer from Harbor freight. www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-63444.html So far I've been pretty pleased with it. I did get some news blades that were much better than the blades that came with it. As long as your not going to be using it every day I think it will hold up for a while. Thanks for watching
I'm debating whether to replace the leaf springs on my RV trailer or to just replace them. They're certainly cheap enough to just replace, but I don't like tossing parts that're still good and could be like new after a restoration like this. From what I'm reading online it's best to leave the space between the leaves bare save for a silicon-based lubricant, so that's what I think I'm going to do if I do decide to restore my springs rather than replacing them. I have a plan to lubricate the facing surfaces, stick them back together, clean off any lubricant from the exterior surfaces, and spray the exterior with a rubberized sealant. Where the springs join and flex the rubberized seal will break, but I can just occasionally reapply silicon lubricant to ward off any corrosion.
If your springs are in decent shape and just a bit rusty then I would just clean them up. It is not hard to do. Now if your springs have settled or are sagging that is more difficult to fix and it would be easier to just replace them. Thanks for watching
Omg! Awesome video! So we just bought 2002 Ford Econoline no we’ve been removing rust in undercarriage. The leaf springs are much worse than yours ugh! Now I’m even more stressed. I can’t even imagine trying to take these apart. I literally was having panic attacks just under the van. As I was sanding with wire wheel I am able to see metal. Question is, should I continue to sand to bare metal or is it best if we remove them and restore ? Please Help! Subscribed and glad I found your video. Thanks!
You can continue to wire wheel them. Just make sure to closely inspect them for any damage that may require you to replace them. If you see anything questionable don't hesitate to either replace them or at the least have a qualified mechanic take a look at them. Thanks for watching and glad you found the video helpful.
Just drop it all in 6 to 1 hydrochloric overnight and everything will be bare metal by the morning and rust free. Scrub down with stainless wool and neutralize. Dry and paint immediately.
I've read painting the leaves of leaf spring packs can lead to wear of the leaf springs caused by the paint wearing off leaving more space (gaps) between the leaves. Having additional space between the leaves the leaf pack may be too loose, causing premature wear? Perhaps it would be better to use a thinner paint that doesn't easily wear? Anyway I don't think you want to cover (paint) the leaves with anything too thick. e.g. Something like trying to chrome the leaves, etc.
Great point. I should have done a better job explaining that in the video. I tried to make all the coats very thin to try to avoid the leaves getting loose. I also plan to keep an eye on them and tighten them as needed
@@Dixler683 he's right tho don't paint between leaf springs. It's a pretty logical concept really. But hey your rig do whatever the hell you want. Lord knows I've done more than my share of regrettable mods to mine over the years.
The new bushing go in very easy. You should be able to push them in by hand. You may have to tap them in with a hammer but you shouldn't have to hit them very hard. Thanks for watching
You need the correct size bushings for your springs. Check this link, scroll down a little bit and they tell you how to figure the correct size bushing without having to detach it. Thanks for watching www.offroaddesign.com/greasable-rear-spring-and-shackle-bushing-kits-for-gm-trucks.html
Great video! Any thoughts if I need to remove some of the leaves from the leaf pack? I have a lowered 74 C10 that I'm trying to fit a caltrax on and I think I need to remove some of the leaves from the leaf pack to fit it
Glad you liked the video. I'm not sure about your leaf pack. I have zero experience with caltracs. Have you tried to contact the manufacturer? Thanks for watching
my 10 year old leaf pack is totally flat against my overload spring, are those leafs salvageable if i have them re arced? or are they weak now and no good?
You can try to re-arch them but if they are that flat I wouldn't expect it to last long. You may be better off getting some new springs. Don't forget you could always check out a few junkyards or pull-a-parts and may be able to find a set of new to you springs. Thanks for watching!
You can but it is not necessary. They are convenient to use to hang the leaves from to paint though. Just remember that you want to use thin and light coats. Thanks for watching
I think you can harden up the worn out steal by heating up the leaf and throwing it in a bath of used motor oil. Not sure but thats what my drummer did with his old cymbals and it made them sound s higher pitch. He said the heated metal absorbs carbon out from the oil. Ill be searching for this technique to add to this fellas routine. Nice job!
Yes you can heat treat your springs but it's not something that is easily done at home. If you have access to a forge/furnace large enough to fit your springs then give it a try. Don't forget to temper after the hardening. Thanks for watching!
You can re-arch your springs but I don't really consider it a DIY thing. Watch this video ruclips.net/video/CYWfYyYQ2kA/видео.html for some ideas on re-arching. Keep in mind that if you don't heat treat properly they will flatten back out. If you can afford it and can find new springs I recommend that option. Thanks for watching and good luck on your project.
@@mblake0420 destroying heat treat takes VERY high temperatures. Guns are heat treated, yet get heat cycled over and over. As long as you don’t discolor the metal, the heat treat will be ok.
2018 Silverado Single Cab, Std. Bed, V8 WT. I'm just looking for a solution to have a smoother ride while it's unloaded. I rarely load anything heavy or pull anything. Any suggestions? I prefer not to spend more than 1K if possible.
For less than $1000 I would look into replacing the factory shocks with a quality shock. You should be able to stay under your budget limit with no problems, but don't cheap out or they may not help your ride. Good luck and thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 I replaced the rear shocks with Bilstein 4600s. I can't tell any difference. To me the entire suspension just feels over-sprung. I "think" if the springs were more progressive it would be much better but I am no suspension expert.
Even my wife notices the rough ride and she rarely notices anything automotive. It rides fine as long as the road is perfect but just ride over a man hole cover and it just feels jars the whole truck.
You can but it will be a pain. If you have torch even just a small propane torch, just use that it will be sooo much easier. If you don't have one then you can use a hole saw. It will be easier if you have a drill press and someone else to help hold the spring. Good luck on your project and thanks for watching
They aren't sagged out that badly. I also didn't want to spend the time rearching all the springs. I will probably end up pulling a 1 or 2 out to increase flex. Thanks for watching
The new bushings are the easiest part of the whole project. They just push in by hand. You may have to tap them in with a hammer but I didn't. Thanks for watching
It can effect the heat treat, that is why you heat the inner sleeve and not the spring itself. That should keep most of the heat out of the spring yet still melt the rubber bushing so you can knock it out.
The new bushings slid in with no problems. I didn't have to press them in. You may have to give them a light tap with a hammer but I didn't. I was able to push them in by hand. Thanks for watching.
Yes, you've made them pretty and replaced the bushes but haven't restored them at all. You didn't reset the leaves to original curve, or retemper them to original spec. When you refit them on your truck, it'll just sag as it did before.
mossturn01 if they are sagged out you replace them.. Heating springs up to re curve them is not a DIY activity and really not smart to do as you are creating stress points in the steel.. This video does however show people how to clean em up and replace bushings/stop corrosion that will cause a leaf pack to fail prematurely
You’re fucking awesome I’m about to do this on my 57 Chevy I’ve been looking for over two months on buying brand new or getting on Powder coating the Powder coating place told me I need to take them apart and it’s extra money if they have to clean them know you know what I’m going to do thank you sir
It may be possible to use a holesaw but I think it would be tough. The easiest method is a press if you have access to one, the second easiest (in my opinion) is a torch. Even just a small propane torch like I used in the video worked quickly and easily and they are cheap. Thanks for watching
As long as everyone understands that cleaning and painting will do nothing for the stressed out steel over time. Meaning of the steel is wore out nothing you do will bring it back.
This is as straight forward as i thought it would be. Thanks for the video and the effort you put into editing. Also, a huge plus for not being another idiot on RUclips. The content here is definitely quality.
Thanks for the kind words and for watching. I'm glad you like the video
This was really well done. Seeing someone else do it with tips is a real Godsend. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
Mate , i am a springmaker from Australia. my comment is to use a press to remove the bush in one motion.
Don't ever paint a leaf spring unless is assembled! using a thin coat of laquer. the spring will not be tight at the centrebolt after rust and wear and tear. u bolts will become loose and the centrebolt will break. nice video mate
Thanks for the tips
Yah, There's really a lot more going on with springs than most people think. I was going to point out too that you shouldn't ever paint the springs except as an assembly. Most of the modern spring steel, SAE 5160 should never be exposed to oils either. I would avoid any grinding to remove rust. Actually a sandblaster probably is best as it would slightly peen the surface and remove any stress risers. Best way to remove the bushing is by press or I've used a drill bit about the thickness of the edge of the bushing and 'walked' it around to peel the rubber out.
Won't rust come back fast if you do it assembled? I don't understand what happens if you disassemble.
@@cubul32 Springs leaves move and rub against each other or the inter liner. If you paint them assembled, they will eventually rust. If you paint them disassembled they will rub the paint off(and possibly bind) and eventually rust. Just paint them as a unit. Don't try and re-invent the wheel.
@vincemajestyk9497 not trying to. Just wanted to understand why u bolts would get loose. Thanks.
Years ago I had a project requiring used leaf springs. Out side the garage there was leaf springs off an old AMC Eagle rusted from the Pa winter salted roads. When I removed the CENTER BOLT and the leaves came apart there was a thin piece of factory installed zink strips about 8 inches long at the CENTER BOLT. Where the zink strip was unbelievable brand new metal.
Where the CENTER BOLT is the springs hold more water and salt. The spring gets bridle from the rust and breaks a lot of times at the CENTER BOLT. With the zink strips there's no rust hence no embrittlement. I have seen zink templates (for a better word) between aluminum wheels and the hub to stop dissimilar metal corrosion.
Neat, I've never seen that
@@Offroadfarm1 sacrificial anode like on a boat shaft or on steel bridge construction, they are also in steel hotwater heaters.
The propane torch did the trick!! The crackle means it's ready!!! Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I put a little bit of grease in the Ferch and pads on my 06 power waggon many years ago and I made a great difference on the flexibility and ride so I believe and restoring your old leaf springs by clean them up and put a little bit of lube or the friction! Again, good video
I never use a torch but you sold me on buying one when I do this on my silverado 1500 thank you lol that was cool when you punched it out and that smoke came out
Thanks for the helpful video Old Farm 🙂
Remember that God loves you! 🙂
I am amazed how the rubber bushes jump in by themselves as soon as you put the wear pads in.
Ha, yeah I missed getting that on camera, but it was the easiest part of the entire project. They just slide in, didn't even have to use a hammer. Thanks for watching
perfect video thanks
Get a map gas torch much hotter then propane. Map gas torch heat then outside around metal sleeve it will expand and the drive metal sleeve out. I’ve never rebuilt a spring like this. Very well done.
Glad i watched this before tackling mine...had no idea they were under pressure...mind you i only have 4 leafs on my truck but TY!!
Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 You're very Welcome Sir! and also thank you for saving me the $200 bucks i was going to spend on new ones. Was outside today surveying as i am doing a frame & component restoration. And yes i hit your Subscribe button. Have a great day and stay safe and healthy!
Watched this to see if you used any heat. A spring shop told me they could restore them that way because they sagging. Within a month both had broke!!! This was on the steering axle of an 83 359 Pete! If you have sagging springs just buy some new ones. Great video....no heat!!!
Thanks for watching
Man I love DIY’s
Good info. I used a sawzall to cut sleeve and a socket to knock out sleeve.
Great tip! Thanks for watching
Don't paint in between the leaves.
When the paint wears out the center pin will be loose.
Also heating them up is not a good idea but if you do, be careful not to heat up the springs.
What do you do to stop rust from forming in between the springs, if you shouldn't paint there? I bought new springs on clearance sale, and the paint has been chipped, so was planning on repainting. However, just being rained on for a week, rust has started forming between the leafs already! I'd prefer my new springs don't rust away from the inside out, so what should I do?
@@adamkarlovsky6015 Some people oil them but I have heard that it could also damage them in the long run. Try silicone based lubricant.
It has been a while since I last did research on this and I always recommend doing your own research before trusting the "guy on the internet".
Sorry, but sprints don't typically move that much. They flex. I have been working on pre-1915 cars for over 40 years, and I remove all the rust, clean and paint every leaf. If they AREN'T painted, THEN they will rust, and the loosening of the center bolt will happen, not because they were painted, but because they developed a layer of rust, that then flakes out. If you ever buy a new spring, you will see every leaf is painted.
I thoroughly enjoyed this video of you working with your leaf spring, very informative and you explained things nicely. thank you for your help...
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you found the video helpful
GREAT video ...thanks for sharing !!
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
@offroadfarm great video, might I suggest another way to use heat to remove your bushings. Instead of heating the inside/center, heat the outside. Doing it that way helps eliminate the nasty burnt rubber stink, and takes less time. In the case of bushings with an outer metal sleeve, heat outside - knock out the bushing and then take some type of saw (hack or coping or whatever you can easily detach and reattach)stick the blade down the hole and saw through it. Then just knock it out what a screw driver. Same idea of knowing when you got it hot enough, the rubber will start to melt/sizzle. The best bonus is that when you heat it up from the outside, the metal should still be hot (aka it is still expanded) making it easier to slip the new bushing in there. 😃
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
If you heat the eye enough it will ruin the temper. Heating the center eliminates that worry! I’d use a drill though because I hate melting plastic stink.
Good work, Shooter!
Thanks for watching!
Love these display
There's another good job for my '74!
I like maintaining a older car it is like a hobby
Torch for the win 😂 I remember the first time I got to use a O A torch at welding school to get stuck inner race out of my Honda 4 wheeler front hubs I got them so hot that I had to replace ball joints bc welded them in the position they where in 😂 I lived and learned that day
Thanks for watching!
@@Offroadfarm1 thanks for the vid
I just pressed mine out the other day I have a press piece that works perfectly and takes the outer sleeve out with no trouble at all.
That sounds nice! That would make it so easy. Thanks for watching
You can also borrow a hand press from any major autoparts store. Free as long as you return it. That how I did all the front and rear suspension bushings in mine. Super easy.
Fascinating to watch ; thanks for sharing !
Thanks for watching!
Like your video. Right to the point.
Very helpful good video thanks 👍
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
That is a cool old C-clamp
Hey I like that table your using you got a neat setup screw the haters theyre wiping off pizza pocket crumbs while sending mean comments
Thanks for watching!
Great DIY videos!! Keep them coming, I’m working on my 1985 K20 now and will be doing all of this in the near future. Thanks for sharing!!
Good luck on your project and thanks for watching
Muchísimas gracias 👍
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I have dipped the end into Muriatic acid for maybe 5 minutes and knocking everything out was no problem. Also used it to clean all springs. Was well.
Thanks for the tip
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for posting.👍🏻
Thanks for watching
ruclips.net/video/_zWUW6EiMcE/видео.html
Great Info!
Thanks for watching!
Good video
Shooter McGavin lol , hope my springs come apart that easy (67 C-10) 👍 👍 🇨🇦
You can also hammer a small chisel in the spring eye gap and tap bushing out.
great video i'am getting to start on 47 lincoln continental bad sag in front fender low enough you cant turn wheels -going to try to raise body up and put shims on top of spring -front single spring-i like the small torch ---any suggestion thanks
Would of ben nice to see you put the bushings back on, nice job.
Yeah sorry, I missed getting that on video somehow. It was easy, they just slide right in by hand. Thanks for watching.
Thank you! So helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
You can also use a holesaw bit on the bushings if you have to do a lot of them OR drill holes and use skil saw.
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks mate. Exactly what I was hoping to see. Well done. Saved me.
Thanks for watching
I heat the bushing from the spring side, then take a hacksaw, remove the blade, reassemble it with the blade inside the hole, then saw out your outer bushing sleeve.
Good job. Simple and informative for the DIYer. Thanks for posting.
Glad you liked it and Thanks for watching
Thanks god bless
The porterband thats the tool i need get always need something like that
I got the Bauer from Harbor freight.
www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-63444.html
So far I've been pretty pleased with it. I did get some news blades that were much better than the blades that came with it. As long as your not going to be using it every day I think it will hold up for a while. Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 thank you ill look into that im always need one these lol
What about when the old springs are sagging on one side of the truck ? It doesn't sit level anymore, too many heavy loads.
Handy tip about the screwdriver - my springs are 11 leaf so lining them all up is a nightmare!
Thanks for watching
Buen trabajo amigo
I'm debating whether to replace the leaf springs on my RV trailer or to just replace them. They're certainly cheap enough to just replace, but I don't like tossing parts that're still good and could be like new after a restoration like this.
From what I'm reading online it's best to leave the space between the leaves bare save for a silicon-based lubricant, so that's what I think I'm going to do if I do decide to restore my springs rather than replacing them. I have a plan to lubricate the facing surfaces, stick them back together, clean off any lubricant from the exterior surfaces, and spray the exterior with a rubberized sealant. Where the springs join and flex the rubberized seal will break, but I can just occasionally reapply silicon lubricant to ward off any corrosion.
If your springs are in decent shape and just a bit rusty then I would just clean them up. It is not hard to do. Now if your springs have settled or are sagging that is more difficult to fix and it would be easier to just replace them. Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1😊😊
Omg! Awesome video! So we just bought 2002 Ford Econoline no we’ve been removing rust in undercarriage. The leaf springs are much worse than yours ugh! Now I’m even more stressed. I can’t even imagine trying to take these apart. I literally was having panic attacks just under the van. As I was sanding with wire wheel I am able to see metal. Question is, should I continue to sand to bare metal or is it best if we remove them and restore ? Please Help! Subscribed and glad I found your video. Thanks!
You can continue to wire wheel them. Just make sure to closely inspect them for any damage that may require you to replace them. If you see anything questionable don't hesitate to either replace them or at the least have a qualified mechanic take a look at them. Thanks for watching and glad you found the video helpful.
Just drop it all in 6 to 1 hydrochloric overnight and everything will be bare metal by the morning and rust free. Scrub down with stainless wool and neutralize. Dry and paint immediately.
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for sharing,good job👍im going to do in my chevy
Thanks for watching
I wonder, did it improve ride quality any, or just esthetics?
Zero effect on ride quailty, Thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 ty
Hy Sir. What if acetone is not available to clean up ? And secondly what about greasing and oiling old or new one spring leafs? Kindly guide me
You could also use mineral spirits or paint thinner. Thanks for watching.
Would a ball joint press work for removing these?
Never tried it but I'm sure that would work, thanks for watching!
UNCLEDOUG IN BOONE N.C. I HAVE DONE A MANY RE ARCHING
About removing the bushing, why not spray some penetration oil like wd40 and let it sip though overnight?
You could try that but I seriously doubt it would make much of a difference in removing the bushing. Thanks for watching!
I pushed mine out with a three jaw puller and a battery impact gun. Shoved it right out in 8 seconds.
That's a great idea, thanks for watching!
Can the bushings be pressed out for those of us with a press?
Yes you can press them out. The metal sleeve may not come out but the bushing will. Thanks for watching!
What about the bushings since the old ones were destroyed?
The new bushings just slide in, easiest part of the whole project. Thanks for watching!
Use a Dake hydraulic press with about 2000 pounds of pressure. Pop it right out
If I close my eyes, I hear John C Reilly saying, “Don’t touch my Drum Set!"…
I've read painting the leaves of leaf spring packs can lead to wear of the leaf springs caused by the paint wearing off leaving more space (gaps) between the leaves. Having additional space between the leaves the leaf pack may be too loose, causing premature wear? Perhaps it would be better to use a thinner paint that doesn't easily wear? Anyway I don't think you want to cover (paint) the leaves with anything too thick. e.g. Something like trying to chrome the leaves, etc.
Great point. I should have done a better job explaining that in the video. I tried to make all the coats very thin to try to avoid the leaves getting loose. I also plan to keep an eye on them and tighten them as needed
Mudd Flow biggest crock I have ever heard.
@@Dixler683 he's right tho don't paint between leaf springs. It's a pretty logical concept really. But hey your rig do whatever the hell you want. Lord knows I've done more than my share of regrettable mods to mine over the years.
left out how you got new bushings in ????
The new bushing go in very easy. You should be able to push them in by hand. You may have to tap them in with a hammer but you shouldn't have to hit them very hard. Thanks for watching
Nice video and explanations! Which size (diameter) of the new poly bishings you have taken, as they have different sizes? Thank you
You need the correct size bushings for your springs. Check this link, scroll down a little bit and they tell you how to figure the correct size bushing without having to detach it. Thanks for watching
www.offroaddesign.com/greasable-rear-spring-and-shackle-bushing-kits-for-gm-trucks.html
Heating a rubber bushing can cause an eruption of molten rubber. It's a good idea to stand back and look the other way or wear some kind of face mask.
Thanks for the tip
Great video! Any thoughts if I need to remove some of the leaves from the leaf pack? I have a lowered 74 C10 that I'm trying to fit a caltrax on and I think I need to remove some of the leaves from the leaf pack to fit it
Glad you liked the video. I'm not sure about your leaf pack. I have zero experience with caltracs. Have you tried to contact the manufacturer? Thanks for watching
Have you ever thought of using a socket that's the same size diameter to beat the bushing out? That's how I usually beat things like that out.
You could use a socket. It might take a bit to get it out but that would work. Thanks for watching.
my 10 year old leaf pack is totally flat against my overload spring, are those leafs salvageable if i have them re arced? or are they weak now and no good?
You can try to re-arch them but if they are that flat I wouldn't expect it to last long. You may be better off getting some new springs. Don't forget you could always check out a few junkyards or pull-a-parts and may be able to find a set of new to you springs. Thanks for watching!
@@Offroadfarm1 Thank you for your advice, ok i will get a set from jank yard, mine are very flat now and 10 years old.
For a easier job just lessen off and spray with old oil , quiet springs and no rust.
Is it a good idea to plug the holes for the center pin before coating?
You can but it is not necessary. They are convenient to use to hang the leaves from to paint though. Just remember that you want to use thin and light coats. Thanks for watching
I think you can harden up the worn out steal by heating up the leaf and throwing it in a bath of used motor oil. Not sure but thats what my drummer did with his old cymbals and it made them sound s higher pitch. He said the heated metal absorbs carbon out from the oil. Ill be searching for this technique to add to this fellas routine. Nice job!
Yes you can heat treat your springs but it's not something that is easily done at home. If you have access to a forge/furnace large enough to fit your springs then give it a try. Don't forget to temper after the hardening. Thanks for watching!
why would you need to replace that outer bushing if the rubber was in tack? I didn't se metal to metal
The new bushing I installed should provide more flex than the old bushing. Thanks for watching
Looks good 👍 what if a spring is sagged/fatigued? Is it bad to try to bend a bit more arch into the spring if it has sagged over time?
You can re-arch your springs but I don't really consider it a DIY thing. Watch this video ruclips.net/video/CYWfYyYQ2kA/видео.html for some ideas on re-arching. Keep in mind that if you don't heat treat properly they will flatten back out. If you can afford it and can find new springs I recommend that option. Thanks for watching and good luck on your project.
You would have removed it quicker if you heated the outside of the leaf spring.
Those are heat treated, I wouldn't
@@mblake0420 destroying heat treat takes VERY high temperatures. Guns are heat treated, yet get heat cycled over and over. As long as you don’t discolor the metal, the heat treat will be ok.
Ok, great
Thanks for watching
2018 Silverado Single Cab, Std. Bed, V8 WT. I'm just looking for a solution to have a smoother ride while it's unloaded. I rarely load anything heavy or pull anything. Any suggestions? I prefer not to spend more than 1K if possible.
For less than $1000 I would look into replacing the factory shocks with a quality shock. You should be able to stay under your budget limit with no problems, but don't cheap out or they may not help your ride. Good luck and thanks for watching
@@Offroadfarm1 I replaced the rear shocks with Bilstein 4600s. I can't tell any difference. To me the entire suspension just feels over-sprung. I "think" if the springs were more progressive it would be much better but I am no suspension expert.
@@2wrdr someone might have put heavy half ton leaf springs on truck. How many leafs are in your leaf spring pack
@@smartweadsgarage6806 2 springs in constant use plus a helper spring. This is OEM. I bought new.
Even my wife notices the rough ride and she rarely notices anything automotive. It rides fine as long as the road is perfect but just ride over a man hole cover and it just feels jars the whole truck.
Could you just use a hole saw instead of a regular bit to out the bushing.?
You can but it will be a pain. If you have torch even just a small propane torch, just use that it will be sooo much easier. If you don't have one then you can use a hole saw. It will be easier if you have a drill press and someone else to help hold the spring. Good luck on your project and thanks for watching
You sound just like Danny Mcbride, in my opinion.
I thought you were going to heat the springs up red hot and quench them to re-temper the springs.
Sorry to disappoint you, but I don't have access to a furnace large enough to put a spring in. Thanks for watching
You won't inhale rust dust but a whole can of paint is OK?
You have a good point
Why would you not rearch them on anvil and sledge hammer? You did all that work!
They aren't sagged out that badly. I also didn't want to spend the time rearching all the springs. I will probably end up pulling a 1 or 2 out to increase flex. Thanks for watching
Couldn't those bushings just be pressed out?
Yes you can press those bushings out. Thanks for watching
What about the new bushings
The new bushings are the easiest part of the whole project. They just push in by hand. You may have to tap them in with a hammer but I didn't. Thanks for watching
You're not reconditioning anything you're just Painting it. I thought this would be about putting the shape back in the old leaspring
Doesn’t heating your springs destroy them?
It can effect the heat treat, that is why you heat the inner sleeve and not the spring itself. That should keep most of the heat out of the spring yet still melt the rubber bushing so you can knock it out.
whaddaya say, we go to the bay,cut some hay,we just may !
😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
It's not May and I'm not in the bay but I am cutting hay, today!
how did the new bushing get installed?
The new bushings slid in with no problems. I didn't have to press them in. You may have to give them a light tap with a hammer but I didn't. I was able to push them in by hand. Thanks for watching.
Yes, you've made them pretty and replaced the bushes but haven't restored them at all. You didn't reset the leaves to original curve, or retemper them to original spec. When you refit them on your truck, it'll just sag as it did before.
mossturn01 if they are sagged out you replace them.. Heating springs up to re curve them is not a DIY activity and really not smart to do as you are creating stress points in the steel.. This video does however show people how to clean em up and replace bushings/stop corrosion that will cause a leaf pack to fail prematurely
Idk. I think I would just replace them.
You’re fucking awesome I’m about to do this on my 57 Chevy I’ve been looking for over two months on buying brand new or getting on Powder coating the Powder coating place told me I need to take them apart and it’s extra money if they have to clean them know you know what I’m going to do thank you sir
Glad you like the video. Keep in mind the heat needed to bake powder coating paint could effect the temper of your springs. Thanks for watching!
didnt use a c clamp. cut the bolt. 😂😂 definitely some springy stuff happened
Ha, Ha stuff goes flying if you don't use a clamp! Thanks for watching!
Holesaw?
It may be possible to use a holesaw but I think it would be tough. The easiest method is a press if you have access to one, the second easiest (in my opinion) is a torch. Even just a small propane torch like I used in the video worked quickly and easily and they are cheap. Thanks for watching
Yo that shooter comment made my day
Glad somebody liked it! thanks for watching
I would have thought with a nice looking shop like that there would have been a hydraulic press by the wall.
Long story but we have a nice little 100 ton press now
As long as everyone understands that cleaning and painting will do nothing for the stressed out steel over time. Meaning of the steel is wore out nothing you do will bring it back.
I agree if your springs are sagged out, time to replace. Thanks for watching
Harbor Freight - Side cutting Drill bits. Check em out
Thanks for the tip!