I've watched a lot of video regarding o2 diagnostics and most RUclips video makers go straight to replacing the sensor without any real diagnostics. They're a bunch a mechanics, and the way you showed this vid is the way an automotive technician does it. There's a difference.
Thanks for the video. After buying an off the market $26, O2 sensor from ebay for my 97 Merc Villager, I was beginning to think it was the cheap O2 sensor. Installed the sensor and cleared the error code. It came back after the next start and stayed on. I watched your video and then went to work again. As I grab the connector to check if I was getting power at the connector, I found the problem. A broken wire. I soldered the wire, cleared the code. Re-started several times and problem solved. Thanks a million. Now I have an extra sensor just in case it really goes out. First step, check if you have line voltage to your connector. Second, the $26 O2 sensor from Ebay works. I decided just leave it in the car.
Great vid, the old School way todo this. I had a CEL p0160 go off for o2b2s2 Instead of doing this I used my obd2 scanner with live data and watched the voltage move on the o2 sensors. It voltage changed when I hit the gas a little. I ended up just clearing it for now.
FYI when you were showing your continuity test your meter was still reading resistance. Always a good idea to touch the probes together to verify your continuity test is good first.
Very professional and accurate way of trouble shooting. I will like to ask you if you can do a video for cleaning a O2 sensor, since I have that problem, heating resistance must be between 11 and 16 ohms and I had close to 900 ohms on my down stream sensor of my 99 Toy Rav4, is not open, carbon has increase the resistance. Thanks, NO
Awesome tutorial. I'm impressed with the detailed explanation on this, and the hands on guide. I'm not a NEW home mechanic by any means, but the o2 sensor is something I'm not familiar with. I did however want to add some helpful hints to this, as I do have electronic college training, as well as working in, and owning my own electronic repair shop. I know it's different from mechanics, but there are basic ideas in terms of the electronics points that I could offer help in. It's probably impossible to hold the meter leads, while performing "The Wiggle Test." It's a common problem that can be determined when it comes to wires. In my case, I purchased a pair of banana jacks (That's the connectors that fit into the meter.) And using basic small safety pins that are about 0.6mm in diameter, cutting a couple of them measuring from the sharp point to about 0.75" in total length. Choose your color of wire, probably one red and one black. I used very small gauge, like 24AWG, and made my lengths about 36" each. I soldered one end to the cut end of the needle, then protected the soldered area with heat shrink tubing. Now when it comes to testing things like this, I can actually push the needle ends either into the contact area, or even in through the back of the connector. It would be beneficial to make a few different test leads, like some with small alligator clips, like in this case, to grab onto a chassis ground. If you had one lead with needle point held in the ground wire of the connector, and the other lead on the engine, or chassis ground, you could place your meter in continuity check, (which makes some meters beep when the leads make connection, and you would then be hands free to perform a wiggle test. The meter should be showing constant connection on that ground wire, but by gently wiggling the ground wire in that harness, if it ever stops beeping for even a split second, (providing you're sure your not moving your leads connections) then you certainly have an INTERMITTENT connection. Since all engines move, shake, etc... it's a good test to do. The types of problems you might have from this, may not happen all the time. That's a pretty good sign, it's an electrical issue.
Life safer lol . I just change the knock sensor and accidentally took off the whole intake and after I finish connecting everything back I had the P0135. Turns out I forgot to connect the sensor back lol thank you
this very well your video friend continues this way and thank you to share your esperiencia and it was seen me a lot and a greeting from tijuana low Californian mexico
You shouldn't measure the heating voltage against the engine ground but against the heating ground wire, because that's where the sensor heater also gets it's ground. So measure between terminals 1 and 3.
That was to test for internal crossconnection defect. What he shoulda' done is fasten test leads to the inputs, and rap on the sensor, but with a really fast scope&watching for noise.
KILL3Rjessica Awesome! It's not a bad job. Often, the hardest part is getting out the old sensor. If it's the rear oxygen sensor, you can often remove the sensor using a basic wrench. Check out my video for rear oxygen sensor p0136 if you need a guide.
CarsNToys Thanks for showing people how to diagnose and test and not just arbitrarily replace and possibly throw away good sensors(like I'm going to do soon........lol).
When checking the engine ground go ahead and loosen and clean the contact points of the ground wire terminal to the metal connection. The connecting contact points can oxidize and loose a good ground
that's for posting , like u said, some would have run out to auto zone and purchased a o2 sensor, and lots of folks knows its true, but like u said do a ittle homework fisrt before u condem the particular part ur scanner saids it is, good videos for those tkhat like to work on their own cars. thanks again.
Very good and thankyou. I notice that some sensors are 4-wire (AFR type) and EricO at SMAR has a Ytb video on testing that type _Toyota AFR / 02 Sensor Problems_
A lot of other videos say that you should back probe the connector with the car running - is that necessary? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I don’t really know what I’m doing.
It is an open end 🔧 wrench so easy to get onto it but not the correct tool to use will most likely round off, a sensor socket is the best tool to use for this job.
The voltage test is testing the o2 sensor heater element or heater power. A 1 wire o2 sensor is heated by the engine, normally extremely close to the exhaust ports (grounded through the exhaust), a 3 wire has a heater element (2 black wires for heater element power and ground, also signal grounding through the exhaust pipunh). A 4 wire has 2 black for the heater element, white, and gray for the sensor ground and the other signal. Long story short even if no power to the heater element, the o2 part of the sensor may still work, it will just require the car to be under load to get to a temperature hot enough for the o2 sensor to do it's job. The o2 sensor is a self voltage generating device. Narrow band (come in 3 forms 1. without heater element single wire normally close to the exhaust outlets, 2. self heating with 2 heater wires for the heating element, no gnd for the signal. Grounded through the exhausts piping, and 3rd 2 wire heating element, and 2 wire signal, one being the signal wite and the other being ground) from 0 to 1v, narrow-wide 0 to 5v (but only accurate from 0.5 to 4.5 (give or take .5v) . And a full wide band 0 to 5v. All of them both of these sensor come in 4 to 6 wires only. This is why it is 2 different codes for a o2 sensor. One being o2 sensor efficiency and o2 heater out of efficent. The testing methods were correct, but the o2 sensor itself and not be properly tested without heating it up. With a flame on the tip, the air is burned so it should give a 1 or close to it signaling rich condition (no to very little air) and when the heat is removed should go back down towards 0 showing a lean condition (alot of air surrounding the sensor).
You've tested the heater circuit voltage but I need to test the oxygen sensor in my brothers Subaru Forester on the 1 Volt DC scale on my multimeter. If it sits on 0.5 volts DC when v the engine is running then the sensor if faulty, however if it fluctuates between 0-1 volts !
Hai. My 2008 GMC Denali was throwing p1133 and p1153 and I changed both upstream oxygen sensors. After driving the same code is coming back again and again. Cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, air filter, changed the spark plugs and spark wires and checked vacuum leaks etc. I do clear the codes with scanner and after one day it will come back. Any suggestions
Excellent and informative video. I did exactly what you said not to on my newly acquired 97 Accord EX-luckily I could not get the downstream o2 sensor out so I returned the new one for a full refund. I have both the 0135 and 0141 with fully illuminated check engine light. I will follow your steps and see where i stand-in your experience with both these codes appearing does that equal a bad Cat? Thank you much for a great video, Terry
hi I have 1992 opel vectra comes with 3 wires oxygen senser .I have problem finding brand new oxygen senser for it .can use any other 3 wires oxygen senser and change the conectors .could you please give a list of cars that come with 3 wires oxygen senser and finally what kind of car is this you are working on.thanks
Thanks for the video.I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra giving me codes p0031 and p0037 and the harness connector has 4 pins .Could you do a video for that so I could check the wiring.I changed the sensors but Everytime I start the car the code keeps coming back inspite of clearing it.Thanks !.
That's interesting, those are two separate and distinct O2 sensors. I don't have an older Sentra on stand by but I might be able to dig up diagrams you can use for your specific vehicle. Just throw me an email and I'll see what I can dig up. carsntoys@gmail.com
god tutorial , i was always told to remove the positive terminal when working on engine or electrical is there a reason you do the negative term? really good video
There is a very good reason to remove the neg terminal first. Should your wrench contact anything grounded in the process, nothing will happen. If you remove the positive first, and your wrench contacts something grounded, you'll have a very low resistance, high ampacity, (actual) short circuit to ground. Guaranteed lots of hefty sparks and it can play hell with the car as well. If a battery is completely disconnected, the pos always goes on first, and the neg last. (The process is reversed for old time vintage pos ground vehicles.)
Thanks for replying back so when the guy put it on the Diagnost he said it was bank 1 sensor 1 that i need .....so he show me what i needed... it was at the top of my car..... is that the same one you talking about...or is it under neath the car...im really confused....
There are a few options.... It depends on whether you want a layfolk's one -with basic garage tools mostly, and most of the repairs or the professional Auto Tech one... The layfolk's is a Chilton's or Hayne's manual, about $20 on ebay. The professional one is called a "Factory Service Manual" or "Shop Manual" and they're between $100-400 depending on your car, again on ebay.
MrEspn64 I disconnected the sensor first. Then fit the wrench around the sensor. You can also buy an oxygen sensor removal tool if you run into any troubles.
The battery voltage on mine is showing 14 volts instead of the 12 volts you have. Is that a problem? What would cause that? Everything else checked out good.
Love your vids but have a question. I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde, 3.2 litre engine and the battery is under the air filter assembly in the right wheel well. The pos and neg terminals are located up in the engine compartment. I just ordered my first Multimeter and would like to know if I can I test my battery by connecting to these exterior posts or does it have to be to the battery itself. Thanks.
how about P0160? also which O2 sensors work better on Nissan, Denso or Bosch or NTK ? I have always been told for Asian cars Denso and for European cars Bosch
dose it matter if all your o2 sensors look the same can u put them in the wrong place in an when you replace one an the one u took out as holds all the way around it ,an you get one to put in an it dose not can that make any difference.
Hello, would a "Haynes" manual suffice for the OHMs and Volt levels we are looking for when testing resistance and volts with each sensor or wire harness plugs? Thank you very much.
Possibly. I haven't used a Haynes manual for some time. Best bet is purchasing the factory repair manual. It's worth every penny. Sometimes you can download for free if you search hard enough.
My sensor heater is working fine . I pulled it out of exhaust , and reconnected it to the haness . When I crank the engine , it gets VERY hot in 3 minutes, yet I am getting code P0131. I think the code is getting triggered before the sensor gets a chance to heat up. What can be done about this ?
Metal Maniac Take a look at the manual that comes with the multi-meter. You'll find a chart showing the range for that particular meter. 10 mega ohms is quite high. What are you looking to test; something ignition related?
CarsNToys I had read that 10 Megs is safer as to not damage sensitive computer electronics, and more accurate so it does not “disturb” the circuit being tested and falsely skew the results. I think it is technically very low since it is ohms and impedance we are speaking of... but not sure... I am still trying to learn the basics ... thank you for your answer.
thanks for taking your time to film and share this helpful video. I don't know much about cars but I have some questions that might be dumb to ask. where could I obtain a repair manual for my vehicle? is it the same booklet as the owner's manual? and you don't need to disconnect your car battery in order to unplug and replace the 02 sensor, Do you?
Dear I have Honda odyssey 2006 & yesterday I got a engine check alarm then i did diagnostic with the auto lab he said 2 sensor faulty. P0135 ho2s AF Sensor B1 S1 heater & P0155 ho2s AF Sensor B2 S1 heater, How i can repair it & where i can buy it as i am living in Qatar
Hi sir. I have a check engine light on and codes p0132, p0152. This codes are related to bank 1& 2 sensor 1 on both banks. I check the homs on each sensor and reads 26.5 And 24 .5. I assume that those sensors are bad according to your readings. I have a nissan vehicle as well. Is this correct,? Can you confirm this for me. Thanks in advance. 👍
hi carsntoys, can you help me ? i need to replace the 2 upstream o2 sensors but need to know if they are 3 or 4 wire so i can order them from rock auto and are the wire lengths the same on both ? please help
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
I've watched a lot of video regarding o2 diagnostics and most RUclips video makers go straight to replacing the sensor without any real diagnostics. They're a bunch a mechanics, and the way you showed this vid is the way an automotive technician does it. There's a difference.
Thank you. Appreciate the feedback.
Mechs and Techs are 2 different types of people lol
Thanks for the video. After buying an off the market $26, O2 sensor from ebay for my 97 Merc Villager, I was beginning to think it was the cheap O2 sensor. Installed the sensor and cleared the error code. It came back after the next start and stayed on. I watched your video and then went to work again. As I grab the connector to check if I was getting power at the connector, I found the problem. A broken wire. I soldered the wire, cleared the code. Re-started several times and problem solved. Thanks a million. Now I have an extra sensor just in case it really goes out. First step, check if you have line voltage to your connector. Second, the $26 O2 sensor from Ebay works. I decided just leave it in the car.
Nice to see a no BS guy doing a useful video.
Thank you.
Excellent video. One of the better car repair videos I've seen in a while.
Appreciate it, Cryptix. Cheers.
Thank you very much for taking the time to explain this. It's very generous of you.
Xavier Beaulieu You got it man
I just got one word for you EXCELLENT WORK!!
Thank you!
Saf Huss .... excellent work = 2 words.
L
Great vid, the old
School way todo this.
I had a CEL p0160 go off for o2b2s2
Instead of doing this I used my obd2 scanner with live data and watched the voltage move on the o2 sensors. It voltage changed when I hit the gas a little. I ended up just clearing it for now.
dude u r a life saver this helped a lot thnz a lot man.......my car had a bad power supply which didnt let the o2 sensor to work.... thnx a lot
Alex Albin what did u end up having to do?
Love the way you explained it slowly an clearly bro good work 👍👍
Appreciate it!
FYI when you were showing your continuity test your meter was still reading resistance. Always a good idea to touch the probes together to verify your continuity test is good first.
true..
Is this how i can check all the connections?
Chuck Claunc
Very professional and accurate way of trouble shooting. I will like to ask you if you can do a video for cleaning a O2 sensor, since I have that problem, heating resistance must be between 11 and 16 ohms and I had close to 900 ohms on my down stream sensor of my 99 Toy Rav4, is not open, carbon has increase the resistance. Thanks, NO
Awesome tutorial. I'm impressed with the detailed explanation on this, and the hands on guide. I'm not a NEW home mechanic by any means, but the o2 sensor is something I'm not familiar with. I did however want to add some helpful hints to this, as I do have electronic college training, as well as working in, and owning my own electronic repair shop. I know it's different from mechanics, but there are basic ideas in terms of the electronics points that I could offer help in.
It's probably impossible to hold the meter leads, while performing "The Wiggle Test." It's a common problem that can be determined when it comes to wires. In my case, I purchased a pair of banana jacks (That's the connectors that fit into the meter.) And using basic small safety pins that are about 0.6mm in diameter, cutting a couple of them measuring from the sharp point to about 0.75" in total length. Choose your color of wire, probably one red and one black. I used very small gauge, like 24AWG, and made my lengths about 36" each. I soldered one end to the cut end of the needle, then protected the soldered area with heat shrink tubing.
Now when it comes to testing things like this, I can actually push the needle ends either into the contact area, or even in through the back of the connector. It would be beneficial to make a few different test leads, like some with small alligator clips, like in this case, to grab onto a chassis ground.
If you had one lead with needle point held in the ground wire of the connector, and the other lead on the engine, or chassis ground, you could place your meter in continuity check, (which makes some meters beep when the leads make connection, and you would then be hands free to perform a wiggle test. The meter should be showing constant connection on that ground wire, but by gently wiggling the ground wire in that harness, if it ever stops beeping for even a split second, (providing you're sure your not moving your leads connections) then you certainly have an INTERMITTENT connection.
Since all engines move, shake, etc... it's a good test to do. The types of problems you might have from this, may not happen all the time. That's a pretty good sign, it's an electrical issue.
+Lawrence Mudge Great tips, Lawrence. Thank you!
Lawrence Mudge m
Thanks. Great video once again. Being that I'll have this Nissan until she dies...I hope you don't get rid of yours.
jim heal Thanks, Jim. Still have the Maxima. Will have body work vids coming shortly.
Very good information, great job! Thank you.
Happy to help.
Life safer lol . I just change the knock sensor and accidentally took off the whole intake and after I finish connecting everything back I had the P0135. Turns out I forgot to connect the sensor back lol thank you
We've all been there. Glad to help out!
Was the first check the heater wire? That would explain the 12v
this very well your video friend continues this way and thank you to share your esperiencia and it was seen me a lot and a greeting from tijuana low Californian mexico
Thank you. Cheers
Very well presented and clear instructions well done. I like the use of the manual as a small window within the main video. TT
This is really great i lean a loud thanks.
Super
You shouldn't measure the heating voltage against the engine ground but against the heating ground wire, because that's where the sensor heater also gets it's ground. So measure between terminals 1 and 3.
That was to test for internal crossconnection defect. What he shoulda' done is fasten test leads to the inputs, and rap on the sensor, but with a really fast scope&watching for noise.
very true. The ground wire can be broken.
Thank you for showing this!! Major help
Great video. Thank you, sir!
where can i find the trouble diagnostic chart ? thanks
I'll be replacing my O2 sensor tomorrow. I needed a new project. This seems doable all on my own. Fingers crossed.
KILL3Rjessica Awesome! It's not a bad job. Often, the hardest part is getting out the old sensor. If it's the rear oxygen sensor, you can often remove the sensor using a basic wrench. Check out my video for rear oxygen sensor p0136 if you need a guide.
CarsNToys
Thanks for showing people how to diagnose and test and not just arbitrarily replace and possibly throw away good sensors(like I'm going to do soon........lol).
Glad to help !
Good information
Thank you. Appreciate the feedback.
When checking the engine ground go ahead and loosen and clean the contact points of the ground wire terminal to the metal connection. The connecting contact points can oxidize and loose a good ground
I hope this gets answered quick,i tested the resistance and for me it showed 5.8 does that mean i need to replace my sensor?
Great video, I will be checking mine on my ML320 Thanks :D
that's for posting , like u said, some would have run out to auto zone and purchased a o2 sensor, and lots of folks knows its true, but like u said do a ittle homework fisrt before u condem the particular part ur scanner saids it is, good videos for those tkhat like to work on their own cars. thanks again.
hunkydude322 Yea man. It's a little more work but sometimes the sensor is good and you save $70+.
thanks for this post! The info is super helpful
Very good and thankyou. I notice that some sensors are 4-wire (AFR type) and EricO at SMAR has a Ytb video on testing that type _Toyota AFR / 02 Sensor Problems_
A lot of other videos say that you should back probe the connector with the car running - is that necessary? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I don’t really know what I’m doing.
He looks like he smoked a blunt
lol..I get this often. Just uncomfortable in front of the camera. Cheers.
How did you get that wrench onto the sensor without cutting the wire?
It is an open end 🔧 wrench so easy to get onto it but not the correct tool to use will most likely round off, a sensor socket is the best tool to use for this job.
Excellent videos. Subbed :)
I also just got one word for you, damm good info. Thanks.
Thank you, Sir. Cheers
Great Video, thanks!
The voltage test is testing the o2 sensor heater element or heater power. A 1 wire o2 sensor is heated by the engine, normally extremely close to the exhaust ports (grounded through the exhaust), a 3 wire has a heater element (2 black wires for heater element power and ground, also signal grounding through the exhaust pipunh). A 4 wire has 2 black for the heater element, white, and gray for the sensor ground and the other signal. Long story short even if no power to the heater element, the o2 part of the sensor may still work, it will just require the car to be under load to get to a temperature hot enough for the o2 sensor to do it's job. The o2 sensor is a self voltage generating device. Narrow band (come in 3 forms 1. without heater element single wire normally close to the exhaust outlets, 2. self heating with 2 heater wires for the heating element, no gnd for the signal. Grounded through the exhausts piping, and 3rd 2 wire heating element, and 2 wire signal, one being the signal wite and the other being ground) from 0 to 1v, narrow-wide 0 to 5v (but only accurate from 0.5 to 4.5 (give or take .5v) . And a full wide band 0 to 5v. All of them both of these sensor come in 4 to 6 wires only. This is why it is 2 different codes for a o2 sensor. One being o2 sensor efficiency and o2 heater out of efficent. The testing methods were correct, but the o2 sensor itself and not be properly tested without heating it up. With a flame on the tip, the air is burned so it should give a 1 or close to it signaling rich condition (no to very little air) and when the heat is removed should go back down towards 0 showing a lean condition (alot of air surrounding the sensor).
Awesome instructions. Thank you
Glad to help man.
And so well explained.
Hope it helped.
Nice tips! thanks mate.
+william d Glad to help! Cheers
Isn't there a fuse for that?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
Thanks my friend. Should we test the sensor when the car is off?
And I test it there is 0 ohm and the car is off
ali nuhad Hi Ali. Yes, test when the vehicle is off. If testing the correct terminals, a good sensor will show some resistance in the ohms test.
You've tested the heater circuit voltage but I need to test the oxygen sensor in my brothers Subaru Forester on the 1 Volt DC scale on my multimeter.
If it sits on 0.5 volts DC when v the engine is running then the sensor if faulty, however if it fluctuates between 0-1 volts !
Hai. My 2008 GMC Denali was throwing p1133 and p1153 and I changed both upstream oxygen sensors. After driving the same code is coming back again and again. Cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, air filter, changed the spark plugs and spark wires and checked vacuum leaks etc. I do clear the codes with scanner and after one day it will come back.
Any suggestions
Can you explain on how to choose which setting on a multimeter when measuring items
if i replace the oxyen sensor and still get a coed for bank 1 sensor 2 what should i do next.. check the connection part like you did?
Very clear, thank you!
Welcome =D
Excellent and informative video. I did exactly what you said not to on my newly acquired 97 Accord EX-luckily I could not get the downstream o2 sensor out so I returned the new one for a full refund. I have both the 0135 and 0141 with fully illuminated check engine light. I will follow your steps and see where i stand-in your experience with both these codes appearing does that equal a bad Cat? Thank you much for a great video, Terry
you need an oxygen sensor socket, its basically a crow's foot socket. probably 22mm for your vehicle
On the auction sensor connector how do you tell which pin is the power supply
Wheres is bank1 sensor1 located in a 1997 Mercedes c230
hi I have 1992 opel vectra comes with 3 wires oxygen senser .I have problem finding brand new oxygen senser for it .can use any other 3 wires oxygen senser and change the conectors .could you please give a list of cars that come with 3 wires oxygen senser and finally what kind of car is this you are working on.thanks
Thanks for the video.I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra giving me codes p0031 and p0037 and the harness connector has 4 pins .Could you do a video for that so I could check the wiring.I changed the sensors but Everytime I start the car the code keeps coming back inspite of clearing it.Thanks !.
That's interesting, those are two separate and distinct O2 sensors. I don't have an older Sentra on stand by but I might be able to dig up diagrams you can use for your specific vehicle. Just throw me an email and I'll see what I can dig up. carsntoys@gmail.com
god tutorial , i was always told to remove the positive terminal when working on engine or electrical is there a reason you do the negative term? really good video
+gotama420 Just habit from over the years. Cheers
There is a very good reason to remove the neg terminal first. Should your wrench contact anything grounded in the process, nothing will happen. If you remove the positive first, and your wrench contacts something grounded, you'll have a very low resistance, high ampacity, (actual) short circuit to ground. Guaranteed lots of hefty sparks and it can play hell with the car as well. If a battery is completely disconnected, the pos always goes on first, and the neg last. (The process is reversed for old time vintage pos ground vehicles.)
Thanks for replying back so when the guy put it on the Diagnost he said it was bank 1 sensor 1 that i need .....so he show me what i needed... it was at the top of my car..... is that the same one you talking about...or is it under neath the car...im really confused....
+pollyallnatural On this vehicle, it's far easier removing from underneath the car.
where do you recommend getting the vehicle repair manuals from ? thanks
There are a few options.... It depends on whether you want a layfolk's one -with basic garage tools mostly, and most of the repairs or the professional Auto Tech one... The layfolk's is a Chilton's or Hayne's manual, about $20 on ebay. The professional one is called a "Factory Service Manual" or "Shop Manual" and they're between $100-400 depending on your car, again on ebay.
Great video.
+Ravensfolyfe410 Yadig Thank you
What kind of manual is that? That looks alot better than mine!
how did you put the round part of the wrench on the sensor? the wires should get in the way.
MrEspn64 I disconnected the sensor first. Then fit the wrench around the sensor. You can also buy an oxygen sensor removal tool if you run into any troubles.
Good video!
Jim Stoops Thanks man
the negative terminal on the battery ? youre talking bout the car battery ?
When checking for voltage, what would happen if I was testing another wire other than the one that you tested. Could you do any damage?
Thanks....
hi CarsNToys thanks for this video from this video i found out this 02 sensor is 3 wire if 4 wire sensor like 2 white 2 black wire how to check it??
The battery voltage on mine is showing 14 volts instead of the 12 volts you have. Is that a problem? What would cause that? Everything else checked out good.
Thanks. Good read
Glad to help, Walkers. Cheers
I was looking for the correct sensor output with different oxygen levels. Didn’t find it here.
good stuff my friend! awesome video and thank you
+LaDarryl Hollingsworth Glad to help. cheers
Was helpful I'll try it on my truck might be the 02 sensor
Can you help me with trouble diagnosis for dtc P0136 B1S2? Senzor Circuit Malfunction
Love your vids but have a question. I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde, 3.2 litre engine and the battery is under the air filter assembly in the right wheel well. The pos and neg terminals are located up in the engine compartment. I just ordered my first Multimeter and would like to know if I can I test my battery by connecting to these exterior posts or does it have to be to the battery itself. Thanks.
try to do with the multimeter but my probes are to thick to fit into the sensor? any idea's? thanks.
Is it a bad thing if i put too much compound on the threads?
Thanks man
Thank you so much!
Glad to help.
Nice video and very informative 🌹👍
What is the difference between upstream sensor and downstream sensor?
Good question. Upstream = before the catalytic converter. Downstream = after the catalytic converter.
how about P0160? also which O2 sensors work better on Nissan, Denso or Bosch or NTK ? I have always been told for Asian cars Denso and for European cars Bosch
thanks man!!
Any difference between OEM sensor and auto part replacement
what hapn if the o2 sensor failed to work
dose it matter if all your o2 sensors look the same can u put them in the wrong place in an when you replace one an the one u took out as holds all the way around it ,an you get one to put in an it dose not can that make any difference.
hey carsntoys is this 100% the bank 1 sensor 1 on this car? i have the same problem dont want to mess my car up any more than it is please help
Good info for future thanks
Well done sir hey where do you get your repair manuals
Hello, would a "Haynes" manual suffice for the OHMs and Volt levels we are looking for when testing resistance and volts with each sensor or wire harness plugs? Thank you very much.
Possibly. I haven't used a Haynes manual for some time. Best bet is purchasing the factory repair manual. It's worth every penny. Sometimes you can download for free if you search hard enough.
Thank you
Welcome
My sensor heater is working fine . I pulled it out of exhaust , and reconnected it to the haness . When I crank the engine , it gets VERY hot in 3 minutes, yet I am getting code P0131. I think the code is getting triggered before the sensor gets a chance to heat up. What can be done about this ?
Love this video. ...now could you tell me where is sensor 1 bank 1 is located on a car....i have a mini cooper 2007
+pollyallnatural Thank you. Bank 1 is the rear of the motor (near the firewall) and sensor 1 is before the catalytic converter.
Is 10 MegOhm Impedance necessary for safe testing of automotive circuits and if so how do you tell a particular DVOM has that rating?
Metal Maniac Take a look at the manual that comes with the multi-meter. You'll find a chart showing the range for that particular meter. 10 mega ohms is quite high. What are you looking to test; something ignition related?
CarsNToys
I had read that 10 Megs is safer as to not damage sensitive computer electronics, and more accurate so it does not “disturb” the circuit being tested and falsely skew the results. I think it is technically very low since it is ohms and impedance we are speaking of... but not sure... I am still trying to learn the basics ... thank you for your answer.
thanks for taking your time to film and share this helpful video. I don't know much about cars but I have some questions that might be dumb to ask. where could I obtain a repair manual for my vehicle? is it the same booklet as the owner's manual? and you don't need to disconnect your car battery in order to unplug and replace the 02 sensor, Do you?
Yes you do
Dear I have Honda odyssey 2006 & yesterday I got a engine check alarm then i did diagnostic with the auto lab he said 2 sensor faulty. P0135 ho2s AF Sensor B1 S1 heater & P0155 ho2s AF Sensor B2 S1 heater, How i can repair it & where i can buy it as i am living in Qatar
Hi sir.
I have a check engine light on and codes p0132, p0152.
This codes are related to bank 1& 2 sensor 1 on both banks.
I check the homs on each sensor and reads 26.5 And 24 .5.
I assume that those sensors are bad according to your readings.
I have a nissan vehicle as well.
Is this correct,? Can you confirm this for me.
Thanks in advance. 👍
Wow great video what service manual where using, Haynes, all data, Mitchell, ?
did u ever find what type of manual hes using?
This is very helpful. Can I use the Chiltons manual for my truck though?
hi carsntoys, can you help me ? i need to replace the 2 upstream o2 sensors but need to know if they are 3 or 4 wire so i can order them from rock auto and are the wire lengths the same on both ? please help
Can you do a knock sensor testing video...
outstanding!
So where can I get that page you are referring to? I have a bmw 318i 1999.
Mitchell provides all car's diagrams for every part of your car
thanks I like it
+chathura peiris Welcome!
Thank you man really good info I will perform a test on my g35
please where did you find repair manual? i have all data and mitchell and cant find testing for ford they tell me to use a special scan tool
did u ever find what type of manual hes using?
@@flash26573 no