Nyt oli hienosti kuvattu ja tehty! 👍 Enpä oo hetkeen nähnyt näin selvää videota vaihdosta! Musiikkikin oli just sopivaa eikä mitää helvetin rämpytystä niin kuin yleensä, jaksoi kattella äänien kanssa 😁
I've done that on my Fabia I 1.4 16V yesterday. Very helpful instruction video. Great job! Just one thing - I would rather do more cleaning of surface mounting area of water pump, to prevent leak.
Thanks for the slow detail informative video. I was able to understand each step , feel confident to change cambelt and other components. Good job, GOD Bless.
The Process: for engine codes ( BXW , CGGB, AUA , AUB, BBY, BBZ, BUD, BCA, AXP. - info found in comments and video title.) 0:48: Wheel removal and Jacking up car. 1:10: Undertray removal. 2:31: Aux belt removal. 3:20: Remove Crank pulley. 4:24: Refit crank pulley bolt. 5:05: Support engine from sump pan. 5:46: Remove upper timing cover 6:23: Clear space in engine bay (coolant bottle / power steering). 7:16: Remove engine mounts. 10:27: Remove lower timing cover. 12:49: Time the engine. 13:32: Remove main timing belt tensioner & main timing belt. 15:08: Remove secondary timing belt tensioner. 16:24: Remove Idler (circle shape) (Note there is no second idler on this engine). 17:10: Water Pump removal. 19:14: New timing kit inspection. 20:27: New Water Pump refit torqued to spec. 23:08: New Secondary timing belt refit: Note locking pin. 24:04: Secondary timing belt tensioner refitted. 26:29: Secondary timing belt TENSIONER tensioning. 27:58: New idler refit (circle shape) and torqued to spec. 28:55: New Main timing belt TENSIONER refit. 29:50: New Main timing belt refit. 31:19: New main timing belt TENSIONER tensioning. 33:43: Engine manual turn over/ cranking. Reversal of process: 35:45: Engine mount refit (to engine block). 36:28: Lower timing belt cover refit. 36:54: Engine mount refit (to body chasis). 39:36: Crank Pulley refit. 40:24: Refit Auxiliary belt. 41:59: Engine start and run. 42:25: Refilling the cooling system whilst running. 44:56: Under tray refitting. 46:12: wheel back on and test drive. 47:26: TIMING BELT KIT USED FROM GATES INCLUDING BOX NUMBERS.
I think the waterpump gasket was the black rubber ring, already attached to the new waterpump. However a little cleaning of the surface would not have harmed 😀.
Bravo pentru clip, e de ajutor, însă vroiam sa te intreb de uleiul de motor folosit. La prima pornire, deși e cald afară motorul are un tăcănit, sper ca nu folosesti Mobil. Eu, pe acelasi motor de 1.4 BKY fabia 2007, folosesc doar Mobil1❗ 0W40 si vara si iarna cu atentie la data de fabricatie, sa nu fi fost produs cu mai mult de 1 an în urmă iar filtrul de ulei bosch sau mann filter doar cu supapă de sens. Astfel am scapat de tot felul de zgomote. Cu cel mai bun castrol, motorul meu țăcăne mult la pornire. Baftă!
I see you taking the old timing over 1 to 1, of are the centredrills locking it in TDC? My belt skipped a beat i think, so I want to time it without retaining the current timing. Theres a tdc mark on the drive belt pulley, right?
Is a counter crankshaft pulley tool necessary for this timing belt tool. Torque spec is 90mm plus 90 degree turn? I noticed u didn’t use it. Surely a blast with an impact gun is enough? Or if the cam locking tool is still left in it won’t turn
Disculpa la pregunta, cuando se utiliza gasolina de eco de 87 octanos; pregunto es posible retrasar un poco el tiempo de la distribución? Es por mitivo que la chispa de la bujía haga buena combustión o pase lo que pase el tiempo tiene q quedar en el punto
Hello friend, I'm planning on doing timing belt for my seat ibiza 2004 and was wondering if you could say which size drill bits you used for locking both camshafts?
Salutare! Tot respectul pentru munca depusa! Vizionand clipul am prins curaj sa economisesc manopera pentru lucrarea asta :)) Ceea ce voiam sa te intreb este daca procedeul e acelasi sau similar si la un motor BKY pus pe Fabia, Polo, Ibiza si pe ce-o mai fi fost el pus, am observat ca difera putin intinzatorul curelei mici dar in rest... nu pare foarte diferit. Multumesc!
Great video, thanks. Does anybody knows that if I should replace front crank shaft oil seal at the the same time? My engine has run 155.000 km so far and this will be the third timing belt set!?
Pt ce ati dat semne pe cureaua ce-a veche ,vad ca pe cele noi nu ati transmis semnele ,si nici nu vad ca cele noi sa fi avut ele semne de fabrica ceva .Ati montato asa pe ce-a noua
For beginners: I don't reccommend to do this job at home. Thats why: 1. Properly lift the car: 1/2 day 2. Unscrew the crank pulley bolt is a nightmare if it is a stock bolt (1/2 day). 3. When you mark, are you sure your current timing setting is precise? Tensioning is also change the timing a little bit (not a whole tooth, but...) 4. Drilling bit is not a professional camshaft locker! Why, because it isn't able to hold the camshaft sprocket properly. It fit slacky. 5. Tensionig isn't so easy as in the vid. No way to set the properly tension force for the first time. You set the small belt properly, after you set the big belt's tensioning, you spin 2x360 check your settings, and suprisedly both of them shows totaly different! You must to repeat the whole process. 6. Maybe you have older car, maybe the last car mechanic didn't use the proper tightening torque. They often use much higher value especially for tensioning securing bolts, destroying the threads in the engine block. If you still want to do the stunt. 1. Take 5 days for it, 2. Buy, or borrow a precious camshaft locker tool, 3. Ensure a spare car, 4. Looking for a new wife...:)
You use a torque wrench for the tensioners, what settings do you use, and are the tensioners supposed to move when you turn the engine over as you've shown in the video?
Salut! Dețin și eu acest motoraș, pe un Audi A2 din 2001, am dus-o sa fac distribuția, dar a gasit si simeringurile de la axele cu came si vibrochen stricate, acum intrebarea mea e: Trebuie sa schimb si termostatul de pe motor?? Asa am auzit pe aici pe acolo ca daca fac operatiunea asta trebuie sa schimb si termostatul. Si cum cum e motorul acesta? E Ok??
Salut. Nu am auzit ca la schimbarea distributiei sa schimbi si termostatul. Poate te referi la pompa de apa care da, se schimba si accea. Motorul in sine este fiabil dar cu performante destul de mici si trebuie avut grija tocmai, la distributie. Au fost foarte multe cazur cand la acest tip de motor s-a rupt cureaua de distributie.
Good afternoon! Please consult on the following issue. A few days ago, we changed the factory timing kit and pump on the Skoda Fabia (CGGB motor, 1.4; mileage 80,000 km) at the official Skoda dealership. The original repair kit 036 198 119 C and the original pump 036 121 008 M are installed (purchased from an official dealer). After the replacement, the master started the engine, which RATTLED very loudly for about 2 minutes like a tractor (this had never been observed before; the oil was not changed during the timing change). When asked why the engine works in such a strange way, the master replied that the hydraulic compensators are knocking and soon it will pass. This answer somewhat confused and alerted us. At the moment, everything seems to be fine: the engine works without extraneous noise and knocks; the dynamics are the same, the motor does not blunt. Question: what is the reason for the above "rattling"? Is there a reason to worry and demand a check (control) of the quality of the work performed to replace the timing? Maybe the master made a mistake on one tooth or did something wrong? I really need help. I am grateful in advance for the answer. Sincerely, Vasily
As good as this video is, there is no way in hell I would attempt this job and I'm a pretty good DIY person, too much involved, you need the proper wrenches torque wrenches, those tensioners look confusing, It's not worth it if something goes wrong... But well shot video...
You’ve Made a big mistake. You haven’t removed the old water pump gasket attached to motor. In fact when you push the new water pump it doesn’t fit perfectly.
You are wrong. The gasket is well stuck onto the old pump and is not on the engine side. It can be seen clearly in the video. For extra seal and precaution, I apply a thin layer of silicone based grease on the new rubber seal. The surface could have been cleaned before attaching the new pump however.
![How to change timing belt kit and water pump on SEAT IBIZA 3 6L [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/1.gif)
this is the best video i have seen for a 1.4 belt 👍👍👍
Nyt oli hienosti kuvattu ja tehty! 👍 Enpä oo hetkeen nähnyt näin selvää videota vaihdosta! Musiikkikin oli just sopivaa eikä mitää helvetin rämpytystä niin kuin yleensä, jaksoi kattella äänien kanssa 😁
This video helped me today when I was changing the cam belt on my Audi A2, thank you 😎
Glad it helped!
I've done that on my Fabia I 1.4 16V yesterday. Very helpful instruction video. Great job! Just one thing - I would rather do more cleaning of surface mounting area of water pump, to prevent leak.
Oh you are blessed because i need to do it in a few days and I'm really afraid of it
@@ronnyibe9621 did you ever do it in the end?
Very clean video recording awesome work, camera angle perfect 👌🏽.
Thanks for the slow detail informative video. I was able to understand each step , feel confident to change cambelt and other components. Good job, GOD Bless.
Glad it was helpful!
You are the best Chief,l am going to work on mine tommorrow
Hello, tomorrow I will do almost this job, I will change stem valve seals on a MK4 1.4 15V, this vídeo helps me a lot, thanks.
The Process: for engine codes ( BXW , CGGB, AUA , AUB, BBY, BBZ, BUD, BCA, AXP. - info found in comments and video title.)
0:48: Wheel removal and Jacking up car.
1:10: Undertray removal.
2:31: Aux belt removal.
3:20: Remove Crank pulley.
4:24: Refit crank pulley bolt.
5:05: Support engine from sump pan.
5:46: Remove upper timing cover
6:23: Clear space in engine bay (coolant bottle / power steering).
7:16: Remove engine mounts.
10:27: Remove lower timing cover.
12:49: Time the engine.
13:32: Remove main timing belt tensioner & main timing belt.
15:08: Remove secondary timing belt tensioner.
16:24: Remove Idler (circle shape) (Note there is no second idler on this engine).
17:10: Water Pump removal.
19:14: New timing kit inspection.
20:27: New Water Pump refit torqued to spec.
23:08: New Secondary timing belt refit: Note locking pin.
24:04: Secondary timing belt tensioner refitted.
26:29: Secondary timing belt TENSIONER tensioning.
27:58: New idler refit (circle shape) and torqued to spec.
28:55: New Main timing belt TENSIONER refit.
29:50: New Main timing belt refit.
31:19: New main timing belt TENSIONER tensioning.
33:43: Engine manual turn over/ cranking.
Reversal of process:
35:45: Engine mount refit (to engine block).
36:28: Lower timing belt cover refit.
36:54: Engine mount refit (to body chasis).
39:36: Crank Pulley refit.
40:24: Refit Auxiliary belt.
41:59: Engine start and run.
42:25: Refilling the cooling system whilst running.
44:56: Under tray refitting.
46:12: wheel back on and test drive.
47:26: TIMING BELT KIT USED FROM GATES INCLUDING BOX NUMBERS.
What tork you use for tighten the timing belt pulley?
I think the waterpump gasket was the black rubber ring, already attached to the new waterpump. However a little cleaning of the surface would not have harmed 😀.
Do the drill bits lock the camshafts even if they're not connected?
Thank you Claude!
Happy to help!
Salut, interesant videoclipul, as îndrăzni să te întreb dacă îmi poți spune care sunt cuplurile de strângere, mulțumesc mult, baftă și numai bine!
Just a question is it easier to first put the tensioner on or the belt
Great video! Why do you need to mark 13:16 when you have already locked the 2 upper wheels?
This job also applies for engine codes BXW and CGGB
Bravo pentru clip, e de ajutor, însă vroiam sa te intreb de uleiul de motor folosit. La prima pornire, deși e cald afară motorul are un tăcănit, sper ca nu folosesti Mobil.
Eu, pe acelasi motor de 1.4 BKY fabia 2007, folosesc doar Mobil1❗ 0W40 si vara si iarna cu atentie la data de fabricatie, sa nu fi fost produs cu mai mult de 1 an în urmă iar filtrul de ulei bosch sau mann filter doar cu supapă de sens. Astfel am scapat de tot felul de zgomote.
Cu cel mai bun castrol, motorul meu țăcăne mult la pornire.
Baftă!
Multumesc pentru apreciere. Uleiul este Mobil 5w30. Masina in cauza are 220.000km.
I see you taking the old timing over 1 to 1, of are the centredrills locking it in TDC? My belt skipped a beat i think, so I want to time it without retaining the current timing. Theres a tdc mark on the drive belt pulley, right?
I just want to change the valve cover gasket. Do I have to follow all these steps until minute 15?
very good and tidy job
job well done. 💯🤞🏾
Plz more videos like this
Is a counter crankshaft pulley tool necessary for this timing belt tool. Torque spec is 90mm plus 90 degree turn? I noticed u didn’t use it. Surely a blast with an impact gun is enough? Or if the cam locking tool is still left in it won’t turn
Fantastic video…many thanks
Disculpa la pregunta, cuando se utiliza gasolina de eco de 87 octanos; pregunto es posible retrasar un poco el tiempo de la distribución?
Es por mitivo que la chispa de la bujía haga buena combustión
o pase lo que pase el tiempo tiene q quedar en el punto
Hello friend, I'm planning on doing timing belt for my seat ibiza 2004 and was wondering if you could say which size drill bits you used for locking both camshafts?
Nevermind, just did the timing belt today and water pump. I used 8 mm drill bits as locking tools and they fit perfectly.
@@aden3113do you have the torque specs ?
Salutare! Tot respectul pentru munca depusa! Vizionand clipul am prins curaj sa economisesc manopera pentru lucrarea asta :)) Ceea ce voiam sa te intreb este daca procedeul e acelasi sau similar si la un motor BKY pus pe Fabia, Polo, Ibiza si pe ce-o mai fi fost el pus, am observat ca difera putin intinzatorul curelei mici dar in rest... nu pare foarte diferit. Multumesc!
E cam la fel , foloseşte blocatori. E simplu , multā atenţie,fārā grabā şi totul iese bine .
What's the torque to be used to tighten the bolts?
Thank u ! Learn a lot from u !
Muito bom, partiu trocar correia.
Thanks a lot
Koji je interval zamjene u kilometrima i u godinama?
هل يمكن تركيب محرك BBY بناقل حركة أتوماتيكى على سكودا أوكتافيا ؟؟ وما هو الفرق بين BBY ,,BCA هل مجرد القواعد الحاملة فقط ؟؟
Is this good brand belt for VW Audi?
What year 1,45 is this? Thanks!
Great video, thanks.
Does anybody knows that if I should replace front crank shaft oil seal at the the same time? My engine has run 155.000 km so far and this will be the third timing belt set!?
Good Job..
Good job. NEW FAN HERE. #ClaudeGarage
Pt ce ati dat semne pe cureaua ce-a veche ,vad ca pe cele noi nu ati transmis semnele ,si nici nu vad ca cele noi sa fi avut ele semne de fabrica ceva .Ati montato asa pe ce-a noua
For beginners: I don't reccommend to do this job at home. Thats why:
1. Properly lift the car: 1/2 day
2. Unscrew the crank pulley bolt is a nightmare if it is a stock bolt (1/2 day).
3. When you mark, are you sure your current timing setting is precise? Tensioning is also change the timing a little bit (not a whole tooth, but...)
4. Drilling bit is not a professional camshaft locker! Why, because it isn't able to hold the camshaft sprocket properly. It fit slacky.
5. Tensionig isn't so easy as in the vid. No way to set the properly tension force for the first time. You set the small belt properly, after you set the big belt's tensioning, you spin 2x360 check your settings, and suprisedly both of them shows totaly different! You must to repeat the whole process.
6. Maybe you have older car, maybe the last car mechanic didn't use the proper tightening torque. They often use much higher value especially for tensioning securing bolts, destroying the threads in the engine block.
If you still want to do the stunt.
1. Take 5 days for it,
2. Buy, or borrow a precious camshaft locker tool,
3. Ensure a spare car,
4. Looking for a new wife...:)
You use a torque wrench for the tensioners, what settings do you use, and are the tensioners supposed to move when you turn the engine over as you've shown in the video?
Yes it is normal for the tensioners to move once you are turning the engine over by hand.
anyone know the torque specs for each bolt please?
no need for torque setting on crankshaft pulley wheel?
Same question…
no sealant for the waterpump?
Sure not !
@@ClaudeTube Is this good brand for timing belt?
Does the engine mount need new bolts?
Only unscrew the screws with an impact wrench. tighten the screws with a torque wrench
What's the torque to be used to tighten the bolts?
What is the tightening torque of the timing tensioner (Nm) ??
Did you find the torque values?
Salut! Dețin și eu acest motoraș, pe un Audi A2 din 2001, am dus-o sa fac distribuția, dar a gasit si simeringurile de la axele cu came si vibrochen stricate, acum intrebarea mea e: Trebuie sa schimb si termostatul de pe motor?? Asa am auzit pe aici pe acolo ca daca fac operatiunea asta trebuie sa schimb si termostatul. Si cum cum e motorul acesta? E Ok??
Salut. Nu am auzit ca la schimbarea distributiei sa schimbi si termostatul. Poate te referi la pompa de apa care da, se schimba si accea. Motorul in sine este fiabil dar cu performante destul de mici si trebuie avut grija tocmai, la distributie. Au fost foarte multe cazur cand la acest tip de motor s-a rupt cureaua de distributie.
@@ClaudeTube Mulțumesc mult pentru raspuns! 🙂
Que numero de brocas utilizas
Este set blocator de cumpārat ;) e ieftin şi precis
Netjes.
how long time does it take
For me, 4-5 hours.
@@ClaudeTube thanks for answar
Mudança correia dentada Seat ibiza 1.4 16v AUB BBZ 100cv
Only i think that one tension roll was missing?! On the top of the watter pump
I mean he didn't miss to put it, from the beginning wasn't there
Some 1.4 engines code have that role some don't have.
всё чётенько.
Pengantian timing belt
Good afternoon!
Please consult on the following issue.
A few days ago, we changed the factory timing kit and pump on the Skoda Fabia (CGGB motor, 1.4; mileage 80,000 km) at the official Skoda dealership.
The original repair kit 036 198 119 C and the original pump 036 121 008 M are installed (purchased from an official dealer).
After the replacement, the master started the engine, which RATTLED very loudly for about 2 minutes like a tractor (this had never been observed before; the oil was not changed during the timing change).
When asked why the engine works in such a strange way, the master replied that the hydraulic compensators are knocking and soon it will pass. This answer somewhat confused and alerted us.
At the moment, everything seems to be fine: the engine works without extraneous noise and knocks; the dynamics are the same, the motor does not blunt.
Question: what is the reason for the above "rattling"? Is there a reason to worry and demand a check (control) of the quality of the work performed to replace the timing? Maybe the master made a mistake on one tooth or did something wrong?
I really need help. I am grateful in advance for the answer.
Sincerely, Vasily
I wouldn't reccommend jacking up a vehicle on grass, otherwise a good video.
As good as this video is, there is no way in hell I would attempt this job and I'm a pretty good DIY person, too much involved,
you need the proper wrenches torque wrenches, those tensioners look confusing, It's not worth it if something goes wrong... But well shot video...
BXW?
BUD.
@@ClaudeTube I don't mean that. :) Is the same process for the BXW engine? 2007 Seat Cordoba.
You’ve Made a big mistake. You haven’t removed the old water pump gasket attached to motor. In fact when you push the new water pump it doesn’t fit perfectly.
You are wrong. The gasket is well stuck onto the old pump and is not on the engine side. It can be seen clearly in the video. For extra seal and precaution, I apply a thin layer of silicone based grease on the new rubber seal. The surface could have been cleaned before attaching the new pump however.
Salut la ce cuplu se strâng rolele întinzatoare și pompa de apā , cam de cât până la câţi Nm îmi trebuie cheia dinamometricā ? Vreau sā cumpār una