I love your videos! IMO, the best on RUclips for a smart and repeatable way to install laminate/vinyl flooring so we can have a top quality look. I'm going to be installing vinyl plank throughout my mother-in-law's house in a couple weeks and your videos should make this go much easier and come out much better! But you have the male and female sides of the plank backwards. The male side (tongue) protrudes, the female sides is the indented (grooved) side. On my first construction job, about 40 years ago, the explanation as to why was, uh, "graphic". Please keep these videos coming!
I can't imagine having started our Grandson's Big Boy Room without you sharing your obviously many years of experience. My sincere thanks as we go confidently into the project.
I just came across you and your videos this evening and I love that you pull away from the video and go in depth with your description of each detail in every step. My primary niche is tile and natural stone, walls, back splashes, custom built showers and jacuzzi surrounds, but the bulk of the stuff is flat work/flooring. So I enjoy watching you. And to be honest I've done this for God knows how many years but when I see you got into si much depth I think about #1 you are 100% legit you know your shit and I can tell you have been doing it a long time so I hope diy'ers and even contractors in their early years really take notice of even the smallest of tios that you point out because they don't have a clue that those little tiny steps save huge leaps further into their install if they decide to skip it think they know better and don't have to listen to that guy on YOU TUBE and before you know it they get to the other side of a 80' main hallway with 2 rooms already run in and they realize because they didnt run that 3riws all the way to the end and secure it before they wrapped a door jamb and completed the bedroom only to realize the main line wandered as they were clicking away on that bedroom. Now they trying to pull the main line back into place........ Ain't happening. Now they are crooked down that 80'hallway and you aint fixin that until you pull up that whole bedroom and come back out and run those 3-4rows ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE END and secure them. And now you can wrap the jamb and redo that bedroom. And their cuts will be off on each end in the room not but thankfully most of it can be used some where...... But yeah thanks man for sharing your trade skills with us... Almost makes me forget how much I really do every day that I don't even think about as I learned it all over the years and it's become 2nd nature...great stuff bud.. I'd like to just add one thing that might also help out a Diy'er... When you are securing the floor in concrete you could also use a zip tie if the screw loosens and won't tighten up. Also they work anywhere you need an anchor honestly got a loose screw in drywall wood concrete or any where you need some sort of anchor zioties can be folded in half, push the fold into the hole and insert whatever screw you have even in concrete doesn't have to be a concrete screw, any screw if once you push the fold into the hole bending each side of the zip tie dienward and inserting the screw into the foldand tightening Down will make that screw tighten up perfectly... Cut the remaining zip tie away with knife or cutters and your done.
Thank you very much for your videos, I have done a couple of small areas myself but I'm about to do it for someone else and charge for, I'm a little nervous but I picked up some great tips of your videos. Thank you
What kind of screws do you use to temporarily secure the blocks to the wooden floor, and how? I using some recycled Shaw Versalock Vinyl. I majored a piece and it is only about 4 mm thick, which sounds pretty thin compared to some of the stuff you use, but I'm on a very tight budget.
I have a dumb question about the row that gets screwed down to the floor. Could I just cut half inch wide strips, screw those to the floor right along the wall, then remove them after the floor is finished and use that for my expansion joint? That would eliminate putting the final few rows in backwards.
Hi thank you for all the videos. I am going to be installing Shaw Floorte Intrepid HD Plus SPC. I was wondering do I use a wood glue or a different type of glue to glue joints together between two planks like on the end boards etc?
Thank you for the videos. My problem is that I have 3 different widths. The cheat sheet is great but it’s blowing my mind trying to figure it out. Do you have a formula?
You do not need to worry about the layout as much. Just be sure to get the floor straight and let the planks fall where they fall. Also, be sure to add 10% for waste when buying this product. when coming to a wall, if the piece will be too small you can always use the larger or smaller width plank instead to get a larger piece.
So after three #)#*$&#@^!! hours of me cussing like a sailor, the number one single idea that has helped me was the use of screwing scrap pieces down to hold this flooring in place. I was driving myself absolutely #($*$&#^ batty "laying a piece down, tapping into place only to have the rest of the flooring move!" HOLY JINKIES BATMAN!!! This is my first time ever even attempting something like this and so far, I've only ruined one board. :) :) :) This is in a 12x12 bedroom with LifeProof 47.6 long planks. Yes...the first two rows looked great but the seams were shared and had to restart twice. :( Thanks so much for sharing. I'm about to head back upstairs to dig back in. I'm hoping I can finish it today. :) :)
Hi Joel great videos I have a slight problem with my install wondering if you can help there is a couple of little boards that don’t seem to sit right as if the board is not square 2 edges are tight but join to next board it has a 1mm unsightly gap on 1 corner but tight on the other iam a bit confused and woundered if you could advise
So where you started laying the laminate you left that gap between the laminate and the wall. The gap was wider then another whole width of the plank so will you have to cut little strips to fill in the rest?
I love your video on starting by centering the floor. Do you have any videos showing how to do this on a floor that has a 45 degree turn? Our floor has that 45 degree turn basically in the middle, with the bath room at the point of the V and 2 bedrooms to each side.
So with you not starting at cabinets did you run a line of your main line to put you put in front of cabinets? I'm doing one right now and I tried running it from my cabinet cuts and it was a nightmare
Huge thank you. My second floor install came out so much better. Now I stare at my first floor install and contemplate redoing everything but its a lot of square footage to redo unfortunately
How you doin Joe.I got another question my room is 9 1/2 ft wide and i put first row down and the cut piece goes on next row and it is 20 inches from butt joint is that too far? Instructions says minimum stagger 12inch
You can also put the boards where they go and just screw through the boards that are going to stay because you have to put the base boards on and probably shoe would as well and they will hide the screw holes . I have done it your way as well both will work.
I put down a vinyl plank over a wood sub floor that was not 100% flat. The "click and lock" didn't stay locked even after going back and re-working. the same is true in the hall which is a higher traffic area. Any thoughts?
hi,,all your videos are great and you explain them well,you really know your stuff,i live in the uk can i lay laminate floor boards on carpet under lay or as it got to be proper underlay
Very helpful hints and concise instructions but what I liked most is the message at the very end of your video. Yes, we can all be saved through Jesus Christ!
What flooring is used in this video? I LOVE the style and color! The darker floor in the video, not the lighter floor towards the end of the video. Thanks
What if I have underlayment down on a slab? Do I drill right thru that and the moisture barrier and cover the crew holes later with seam tape or do I need to fold it over far enough so the scrap board is over bare concrete?
What is your recommendation on using laminate flooring on stairs. The carpet is coming up and laminate is replacing it. The stairs do have a nosing on them. I've seen a couple other people's videos but like your work and explanation of things. I didn't notice any of your videos talking about it unless I just missed it. Thanks for your help in advance.
I've been considering doing the video on stairs. I haven't because most people situations should not have plank on the stairs. Because you need to cut the nosing flush with the riser therefore you shrink your stare which makes it dangerous. This is why I have not turn any videos on stairs
Thank you very much for such a detail way of how to do vinyl and laminate plank I am about to do the laminate plank for the first time is there any way I can contact you it i need advice Anthony
whats the skinniest you can rip a board? I want to center the flooring through my hallway but it leaves a 1 5/8 board on the end in the living area, is this too narrow?
I love your videos! IMO, the best on RUclips for a smart and repeatable way to install laminate/vinyl flooring so we can have a top quality look.
I'm going to be installing vinyl plank throughout my mother-in-law's house in a couple weeks and your videos should make this go much easier and come out much better!
But you have the male and female sides of the plank backwards. The male side (tongue) protrudes, the female sides is the indented (grooved) side. On my first construction job, about 40 years ago, the explanation as to why was, uh, "graphic".
Please keep these videos coming!
I can't imagine having started our Grandson's Big Boy Room without you sharing your obviously many years of experience. My sincere thanks as we go confidently into the project.
You're welcome and thanks for your comment
First rate tips. I build stairs for a living, I have a floor project I was thrust into by my brother. This really helps, thanks for the insight.
Excellent video! Getting ready to start mine this week and I needed this video just to help ease the stress I’ve been feeling about the whole thing.
I'm glad I could help and thank you for posting this comment
I just came across you and your videos this evening and I love that you pull away from the video and go in depth with your description of each detail in every step. My primary niche is tile and natural stone, walls, back splashes, custom built showers and jacuzzi surrounds, but the bulk of the stuff is flat work/flooring. So I enjoy watching you. And to be honest I've done this for God knows how many years but when I see you got into si much depth I think about #1 you are 100% legit you know your shit and I can tell you have been doing it a long time so I hope diy'ers and even contractors in their early years really take notice of even the smallest of tios that you point out because they don't have a clue that those little tiny steps save huge leaps further into their install if they decide to skip it think they know better and don't have to listen to that guy on YOU TUBE and before you know it they get to the other side of a 80' main hallway with 2 rooms already run in and they realize because they didnt run that 3riws all the way to the end and secure it before they wrapped a door jamb and completed the bedroom only to realize the main line wandered as they were clicking away on that bedroom. Now they trying to pull the main line back into place........ Ain't happening. Now they are crooked down that 80'hallway and you aint fixin that until you pull up that whole bedroom and come back out and run those 3-4rows ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE END and secure them. And now you can wrap the jamb and redo that bedroom. And their cuts will be off on each end in the room not but thankfully most of it can be used some where...... But yeah thanks man for sharing your trade skills with us... Almost makes me forget how much I really do every day that I don't even think about as I learned it all over the years and it's become 2nd nature...great stuff bud.. I'd like to just add one thing that might also help out a Diy'er... When you are securing the floor in concrete you could also use a zip tie if the screw loosens and won't tighten up. Also they work anywhere you need an anchor honestly got a loose screw in drywall wood concrete or any where you need some sort of anchor zioties can be folded in half, push the fold into the hole and insert whatever screw you have even in concrete doesn't have to be a concrete screw, any screw if once you push the fold into the hole bending each side of the zip tie dienward and inserting the screw into the foldand tightening Down will make that screw tighten up perfectly... Cut the remaining zip tie away with knife or cutters and your done.
love the blocking tip to secure the rows. Thanks and God bless you and your family
Thanks for All your help, I'm about to start a Laminate project in my condo and your videos are Greatly appreciated!
Your so good at this.
Thank you for your guidance through this video series. The cheat sheet was key to making my floor come out looking great!
Good tip. i like how you put pieces to support the floor
I found your video very insightful and helpful. Thank you for the message of hope an the end.
+Josh Molina glad to help
Just what I was looking for..and more.
You're tha man!!!
Thank you very much for your videos, I have done a couple of small areas myself but I'm about to do it for someone else and charge for, I'm a little nervous but I picked up some great tips of your videos. Thank you
No problem. Check out Laminate University. I will be there for you if you need help. There is a link below.
Great videos! Thaks so much for the detailed explanations.
Glad you like them!
Thank you for sharing your expertise.
You're welcome
Thanx for your vey useful, well done videos. God Bless
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you sir for your sharing your knowledge for free, you are awesome.
Thanks Frank! However if you want to donate become a member of laminate university, there is a link below!!
Food for thought,Thank you.
On the cement uses leftover scrap electrical wire and put it in your hole you drilled and you can use regular wood screws
Are underlayment needed for a finished floor?
What kind of screws do you use to temporarily secure the blocks to the wooden floor, and how? I using some recycled Shaw Versalock Vinyl. I majored a piece and it is only about 4 mm thick, which sounds pretty thin compared to some of the stuff you use, but I'm on a very tight budget.
thats cool and a good message
Thanks
I have a dumb question about the row that gets screwed down to the floor. Could I just cut half inch wide strips, screw those to the floor right along the wall, then remove them after the floor is finished and use that for my expansion joint? That would eliminate putting the final few rows in backwards.
Hi thank you for all the videos. I am going to be installing Shaw Floorte Intrepid HD Plus SPC. I was wondering do I use a wood glue or a different type of glue to glue joints together between two planks like on the end boards etc?
For laminate use wood glue and vinyl plank use gorilla glue.
Which way should the tongue face if you have to start from a doorway INTO a bedroom (bedroom at end of hallway, to the left side of hallway) Thanks!
tongue faces the starting wall
@@MyChannel-m2y Cool. That's what I did. Thx for all your tips. Did the room, came out great!
Thank you for the videos. My problem is that I have 3 different widths. The cheat sheet is great but it’s blowing my mind trying to figure it out. Do you have a formula?
You do not need to worry about the layout as much. Just be sure to get the floor straight and let the planks fall where they fall. Also, be sure to add 10% for waste when buying this product. when coming to a wall, if the piece will be too small you can always use the larger or smaller width plank instead to get a larger piece.
Thanks for all this---simple guys like me need it....and, knowing Jesus, yep you got that right, too :)
You bet!
Any tips for securing the floor when you’re working with a moisture barrier that should remain intact?
Cut holes where the screw goes and tape them into place when you remove the screws.
So after three #)#*$&#@^!! hours of me cussing like a sailor, the number one single idea that has helped me was the use of screwing scrap pieces down to hold this flooring in place. I was driving myself absolutely #($*$&#^ batty "laying a piece down, tapping into place only to have the rest of the flooring move!" HOLY JINKIES BATMAN!!! This is my first time ever even attempting something like this and so far, I've only ruined one board. :) :) :) This is in a 12x12 bedroom with LifeProof 47.6 long planks. Yes...the first two rows looked great but the seams were shared and had to restart twice. :( Thanks so much for sharing. I'm about to head back upstairs to dig back in. I'm hoping I can finish it today. :) :)
Glad i could help!
Hi Joel great videos I have a slight problem with my install wondering if you can help there is a couple of little boards that don’t seem to sit right as if the board is not square 2 edges are tight but join to next board it has a 1mm unsightly gap on 1 corner but tight on the other iam a bit confused and woundered if you could advise
Can you share pics on my Facebook page there's a link below the description of this video
So where you started laying the laminate you left that gap between the laminate and the wall. The gap was wider then another whole width of the plank so will you have to cut little strips to fill in the rest?
I explain this in my video- installing the last few rows
What do you use to remove any sharpie marks you made on the flooring? Dry Erase marker?
Denatured alcohol.
I love your video on starting by centering the floor. Do you have any videos showing how to do this on a floor that has a 45 degree turn? Our floor has that 45 degree turn basically in the middle, with the bath room at the point of the V and 2 bedrooms to each side.
can you share a pic on my facebook page? just take a pic of a drawing.
So with you not starting at cabinets did you run a line of your main line to put you put in front of cabinets? I'm doing one right now and I tried running it from my cabinet cuts and it was a nightmare
Yes, I move the main line around into different rooms. I can walk you through this with an Installation Blueprint.
@@MyChannel-m2y I pulled back three rows from cabinets and it ran great. I made builder straighten island that was half inch off
Huge thank you. My second floor install came out so much better. Now I stare at my first floor install and contemplate redoing everything but its a lot of square footage to redo unfortunately
Great job! I am sure it will be fine! I really appreciate your posts!
How you doin Joe.I got another question my room is 9 1/2 ft wide and i put first row down and the cut piece goes on next row and it is 20 inches from butt joint is that too far? Instructions says minimum stagger 12inch
No, that is not too far.
@@MyChannel-m2y Cool Thanks again.👍
You can also put the boards where they go and just screw through the boards that are going to stay because you have to put the base boards on and probably shoe would as well and they will hide the screw holes . I have done it your way as well both will work.
I use both methods and have a video showing the other way too.
I would love to meet you and shake your hand! You are the bomb! Best videos out there!
If it’s one rectangular room do you have to do this method?
I would definitely secure the floor so it makes it easier to install
I put down a vinyl plank over a wood sub floor that was not 100% flat. The "click and lock" didn't stay locked even after going back and re-working. the same is true in the hall which is a higher traffic area. Any thoughts?
I would glue the joints. Also try to add tar paper under the floor where the dips occur. You can layer the paper.
hi,,all your videos are great and you explain them well,you really know your stuff,i live in the uk can i lay laminate floor boards on carpet under lay or as it got to be proper underlay
No don"t use carpet pad, it is too thick and it has too much cush.
Thank you for the reply.
My hallway have multiple door openings by starting in the center of hallway would i start from the middle and work my way out on both sides
You should watch my video where to start installing laminate or vinyl plank
Awesome tip!!!
How do you like the vinyl plank with the underlayment built in?
I think it is good.
Very helpful hints and concise instructions but what I liked most is the message at the very end of your video. Yes, we can all be saved through Jesus Christ!
What flooring is used in this video? I LOVE the style and color! The darker floor in the video, not the lighter floor towards the end of the video. Thanks
Mannington 12mm
Would this same method work over tile. I have tile through my house and want wood but I do not want to take up the tile. Do you have any suggestions?
Yes. Just screw through grout lines or drill through the tile.
Do you leave that gap to the wall and install that last?
Yes I did.
What if I have underlayment down on a slab? Do I drill right thru that and the moisture barrier and cover the crew holes later with seam tape or do I need to fold it over far enough so the scrap board is over bare concrete?
+EWG29526 just tape over the holes and it will be fine.
Good layout info, t y
Great work.. All the best from Ireland
+moxie mulgrew thank You!
I need you in my life
what about around the kitchen cabinets? do you leave an expansion gap etc? how to secure it?
Hey jo. You dont put any underlayment when youre installing your laminate on concrete?
Thx
This was a vinyl plank that had an attached pad. If it did not i would have used quiet walk.
It looks like your wall row is going to be sliver thin... how can you avoid this?
Actually it was a couple inches. It will be covered with furniture. Here is a good video to watch -ruclips.net/video/6eZHHSzI7Qo/видео.html
Isn’t the underlayment supposed to go in the opposite direction?
Nah, that does not matter.
What is your recommendation on using laminate flooring on stairs. The carpet is coming up and laminate is replacing it. The stairs do have a nosing on them. I've seen a couple other people's videos but like your work and explanation of things. I didn't notice any of your videos talking about it unless I just missed it. Thanks for your help in advance.
I've been considering doing the video on stairs. I haven't because most people situations should not have plank on the stairs. Because you need to cut the nosing flush with the riser therefore you shrink your stare which makes it dangerous. This is why I have not turn any videos on stairs
Amen!
Thank You!!!!
I just subscribe!!!!
Awesome!
My Adura Max says it has the pad already on the plank is that true?
Yes it does and it is an outstanding product!!
Thank you very much for such a detail way of how to do vinyl and laminate plank I am about to do the laminate plank for the first time is there any way I can contact you it i need advice Anthony
Yes anthony. There is a link below for laminate university and as a member you have direct access to me for any help you need.
Amen Brother
Amen
whats the skinniest you can rip a board? I want to center the flooring through my hallway but it leaves a 1 5/8 board on the end in the living area, is this too narrow?
+BellaBambaful no. There is always going to be smaller pieces somewhere.
K
Most people aren’t going to experience Sheetrock that has a gap at the bottom, at least I haven’t seen it.
I think I disagree. Either way I still state to leave a gap.
@@MyChannel-m2y, I’m with you regarding leaving a 1/4”gap. If the drywall had a gap at the bottom, I’d be all set!