You may never see this comment but I had to say it anyhow. THANK YOU! I am 68 and wanted to make some simple slide out shelves for canning jars. I didn't want to spend a fortune for the glides and they always seem to break anyhow. WAAAAY back in my memory I remembered my dad used to make wooden glides for slide outs but could not be sure I remembered all the details. It took me 3 days of searching with different titles before I finally found you. I am sure I will now see it everywhere but I am glad I found this particular video and will now subscribe to help out with other projects.
Your the man! My husband and I try to make what we can. I have a craft room and craft organizational items are so expensive. Plus slides are expensive. I need about 6 cabinets and this is the best cost saving way for me to get my dream craft room. Thanks.
All the things you have to figure when you're buliding cabinets. I love this idea. I made something similar, but you have done a much better job. Thanks for sharing!
Normally, I would never address the sponsor in the comments, BUT there is a first time for everything. I bought a ZeroG hose about a month ago for my barn. Where has this been all my life? It’s super light weight, and that’s important when I’m dragging it from stall to stall to fill buckets, and across one pasture to fill a trough. I’ve been very impressed!
Thank you for providing such a clear example of how this sort of drawer slides work. I'm building a router table right now and I have those narrow drawers to the side of the router. They are so narrow using a metal slide combined with the drawer sides would take up too much of the space. This is the perfect solution. Long time follower but came back to this video now that I needed it. Thanks again!
I always use jigs for wooden runners or full extension runners but I cut a jig for each draw runners in the set so each set of drews are all the same but we put another draw front on the Draws nice job you have done 👍👏 🇬🇧 stay safe
Great technique~! I've got a miter saw station that I'm getting ready to tackle that calls for a couple dozen drawer slides. I really like your method and am looking at modifying my plans. This will save me a chunk of money that I can use elsewhere in the shop. Thanks Jon~!
Brilliant! I tried to do basic shelving for plastic blanket box storage for my tiny house on wheels project and will take apart what I did to conform to your method. Great video! Clean functional look!
Perfect instructions to help me figure out drawers and a mitre saw station in my shed. Really appreciate it. Love your stuff, always practical and full of tips. Cheers from Australia and thanks! PP
This is great. Glad you did this video. I just made some drawers and used the metal slides. I like them. But it is costly. I have more drawers that I want to make and this will allow me to get them done sooner.
Jon thanks for tips I start wood working about a 3 or 4 years ago and I enjoy your videos, I made a vanity based on your video annmy sister loved it. Thanks
Still struggling with these metal drawer slides for last 3 days. Wish i had this video a week ago. This is a great design option to keep things simple.
Old school way of draw slides. I will be using plywood slides on my drill press cabinet. Draw slides are very expensive, i will be use one set of metal slides. That is for a tray that holds my 6" disc, belt sander.
Great video, so clear and concise and a great tutorial thats easy (even for me!) to understand. Just one thing, would it be a good idea to apply some paste wax to the door runners on the bottom and top of the the cabinet and maybe also the sides and top edge of the drawer and bottom of the drawer to sllow it to slide even easier? Any suggestions would be most welcome 😀 Great video
Been looking for something like this to fit custom sized storage cabinets in my garage, I cant purchase the correct size metal sliders (or lose depth if i buy smaller ones), so this is perfect! Thank you :)
Jon, would you be open to making a video, or could you please suggest a resource , on cabinet drawer dimensions as they relate to the dimensions of the cabinet itself? So many videos exist on drawer construction but not much on how to figure out drawer sizes for the cabinet openings. Thank you for your time and effort. Great content, excellent teaching skills.
Thanks! Was looking to build drawers for shop and already sweating at the cost of metal sliders- definitely going to do this wood thing, but not a fraction as nice and square / smooth as your install 😂
These drawers will slide much more easily if you put thumb tacks on all 4 (top and bottom) back corners of the drawer and on the top of the runner/cleat at the front end. You will need about 1/8 to 3/16 extra clearance. Works best if you relieve the bottom front of the runner to allow the thumb tacks to clear each other as you insert the drawers.
I was going to mention that simple paraffin wax bars rubbed directly onto the drawers and sliders on the spaces where they meet is plenty to keep them gliding smoothly for a long time! I do this on all my antique furniture to keep the drawers from sticking.
It is far easier and no chance of errors if you use the drawer itself plus a piece of card as the spacer to align the runners. With your method, there is a possibility of an error in transferring the measurement from the drawer to the ply template.
I like the idea of not using metal hardware, but I do have a question. I live in an old Victorian home that has some built in cabinets what use essentially the same approach you show here. After (many) years of use, the wooden cleats as well as the bottom of the side of the drawers have worn such that the drawers to not sit right anymore. Do you recommend a way to reinforce these parts so that they remain sitting correctly?
You can make a groved track with a Router and have it slide in a track on the side of the inner walls. Or you could make the front face and backface drawer sides higher than the sides and just have a stop pkug on the inside of the walls.
Question: Do you have a method for keeping those drawers from being pulled out too far?? ... or pushed in too far without a drawer face that overlaps the face frame??
@@jtltet I guess I'm the only person to have ever pulled a drawer system like that out a quarter inch too far and scattered the contents all over the place. ... especially if the drawer is so deep it goes all the way to the back of the cabinet. If I'm using that guide system, I make the back of the drawer 5" from the back of the sides so it warns me i'm at the depth of the drawer before pulling it out all the way. But he didn't build his that way. In his case you must hold the front of the drawer up to see what's in the back, if you let it go, it'll go to the floor.
@@barpluc3977, the back of his drawer is a few inches from the back of the cabinet. Also, if you pull it out far enough to see in the back of the drawer and let go, the cleats from the drawer above prevent the drawer from tipping and falling out. I don't see a problem with it, plus this is his cabinet. The rest of us can build ours however we please. I like this for cost savings in a workshop cabinet.
Daniel, I did a little looking and found what I think is that nailer - it's a unique (and pricey) one, if I am correct: www.nailgundepot.com/grex-gc1850-cordless-18-ga-brad-nailer-2-details.html Operates off of AAA batteries and "fuel cells," which look like they are basically compressed air cylinders (a bit like CO2 cartridges).
@@jimconway4422 Thank you for finding that. I agree it is a bit pricey. Since I'm not to the point of buying one I'll keep looking and trying to compare notes. This is very helpful. Thanks Again.
nice job jon...i don't think we need sliders on all applications specially on some furniture as far as kitchen cabinets i rather use full sliders...by the way i like the adds...
Hey Jon. Nice work as always. One question I've always had while watching your videos is, what is the deal with the masking tape on your Rip Fence Handle? I would always see it and thought it was an old, splintered wooden handle. But just recently noticed it was masking tape. So why the tape?
Great video, thanks, Jon! Building some larger drawers that may be fairly heavily loaded, but still want to try wooden slides. Did you use hard wood for the runners? I was going to use maple and coat with Slipit r equivalent for easier sliding. Thanks!
Nice! I've made all of my shop rolling carts this way! But my question is not about that, but on how your table saw runs so smooth....what kind of belt do you run on it?
Simple and easy. Thanks Jon! What model is the cordless brad nailer you're using? And what is your experience with it? I am looking for a cordless brad nailer, looking at all the options. Cheers from Mexico!
I think it is a Grex GC1850. It's a unique (and pricey) one, if I am correct: www.nailgundepot.com/grex-gc1850-cordless-18-ga-brad-nailer-2-details.html Operates off of AAA batteries and "fuel cells," which look like they are basically little compressed air cylinders (a bit like CO2 cartridges). Hope that helps.
No. Unless there's a liquidation, items on Ebay typically cost more because the seller and Ebay both take a % on top of the original retail price. If you want savings, DIY or deal with the manufacturer directly - the more people involved in distributing and selling a product, the more the price goes up, not the other way around. Economics 101.
As much as I like the idea of wooden rails to save money, doesn't the wood after a short time move causing bind ups? Also, wood is not all that slippery for sliding drawers with weight...and how about stops to prevent drawers from sliding out too much?
The wood movement question really depends frankly. If installing the runners the correct way, the radial expansion and contraction is nominal, especially if using proper species that is well dried and it will be in a well climate controlled area. Still you can't stop all movement, but you can account for that little bit with a slightly looser fit between the drawer and runners vertically. Also, if using a good hard wood for runners and the drawers with some paste wax, you get incredibly smooth operation even with weight. And yes, there are many ways to incorporate stops.
You may never see this comment but I had to say it anyhow. THANK YOU! I am 68 and wanted to make some simple slide out shelves for canning jars. I didn't want to spend a fortune for the glides and they always seem to break anyhow. WAAAAY back in my memory I remembered my dad used to make wooden glides for slide outs but could not be sure I remembered all the details. It took me 3 days of searching with different titles before I finally found you. I am sure I will now see it everywhere but I am glad I found this particular video and will now subscribe to help out with other projects.
That’s great! I’m glad to hear it and thanks for subscribing.
I live way out in the country, this video just saved me an hour and 20 minute round trip to the closest home Depot 😂 thank you!
Glad to hear it!👍
Your the man! My husband and I try to make what we can. I have a craft room and craft organizational items are so expensive. Plus slides are expensive. I need about 6 cabinets and this is the best cost saving way for me to get my dream craft room. Thanks.
Nice! I’m glad the video helped… it’s been a few years and the drawers are still working great…wood on wood slides tend to get better with age 👍
All the things you have to figure when you're buliding cabinets. I love this idea. I made something similar, but you have done a much better job. Thanks for sharing!
I can't thank you enough! I been looking for drawers like this forever, drawer slides are so expensive. Thank you!
Normally, I would never address the sponsor in the comments, BUT there is a first time for everything. I bought a ZeroG hose about a month ago for my barn. Where has this been all my life? It’s super light weight, and that’s important when I’m dragging it from stall to stall to fill buckets, and across one pasture to fill a trough. I’ve been very impressed!
Glad to hear it Jennifer... great hose!
I absolutely love how the nail didn’t go through. Little things like that happen to me every time I build something and love seeing how normal it is.
this is a lot simpler than the tongue-n-groove system my childhood desk had!
A simple, yet elegant "jig". Thank you.
Thx John. Saving me a bundle
@@williams8198 thanks! Glad to hear it
Straight forward and simple. Just the way I like it! Thanks Jon.
Thank you for providing such a clear example of how this sort of drawer slides work. I'm building a router table right now and I have those narrow drawers to the side of the router. They are so narrow using a metal slide combined with the drawer sides would take up too much of the space. This is the perfect solution. Long time follower but came back to this video now that I needed it. Thanks again!
My Father built his shop cabinets exactly the same when I was a kid 😀 very cool old school is awesome..great video
Thank you!
Cabinet looks awesome and using wood for the draw slides saves a fortune,looking forward to watching the cabinet build
This is excellent. Love the all-wood slides.
I always use jigs for wooden runners or full extension runners but I cut a jig for each draw runners in the set so each set of drews are all the same but we put another draw front on the Draws nice job you have done 👍👏 🇬🇧 stay safe
Great technique~! I've got a miter saw station that I'm getting ready to tackle that calls for a couple dozen drawer slides. I really like your method and am looking at modifying my plans. This will save me a chunk of money that I can use elsewhere in the shop. Thanks Jon~!
Brilliant! I tried to do basic shelving for plastic blanket box storage for my tiny house on wheels project and will take apart what I did to conform to your method. Great video! Clean functional look!
Perfect instructions to help me figure out drawers and a mitre saw station in my shed. Really appreciate it. Love your stuff, always practical and full of tips. Cheers from Australia and thanks! PP
Great. Always knew that before metal slides there had to be another way. Much cheaper easier and practical. My type of video.
This is great. Glad you did this video. I just made some drawers and used the metal slides. I like them. But it is costly. I have more drawers that I want to make and this will allow me to get them done sooner.
I love your videos! This is exactly what I was looking for
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Jon thanks for tips I start wood working about a 3 or 4 years ago and I enjoy your videos, I made a vanity based on your video annmy sister loved it. Thanks
Still struggling with these metal drawer slides for last 3 days. Wish i had this video a week ago. This is a great design option to keep things simple.
I agree about the cost savings one will get using wood slides, Jon.
Thanks Jon , beautiful work as always 👍
This video was a great help. Thanks Jon!
This was very helpful. Many thanks.
Nice tip on offsetting the holes on the cleats.
You make it look so easy. Is 1/16 enough for wood expansion?
No discussion on clearance measurements?? Thanks for the video.
Old school way of draw slides. I will be using plywood slides on my drill press cabinet. Draw slides are very expensive, i will be use one set of metal slides. That is for a tray that holds my 6" disc, belt sander.
Great video, so clear and concise and a great tutorial thats easy (even for me!) to understand.
Just one thing, would it be a good idea to apply some paste wax to the door runners on the bottom and top of the the cabinet and maybe also the sides and top edge of the drawer and bottom of the drawer to sllow it to slide even easier?
Any suggestions would be most welcome 😀
Great video
Been looking for something like this to fit custom sized storage cabinets in my garage, I cant purchase the correct size metal sliders (or lose depth if i buy smaller ones), so this is perfect! Thank you :)
What are your cleats made from; ie are they hardwood? I like this system, thanks!
"Why didn't that work?" It's safe to say that the vast majority of us have been there.
Excellent idea!
Awesome way to save money and it still looks great. thanks for the explanation during the video, I learned a lot from this video.
Jon, would you be open to making a video, or could you please suggest a resource , on cabinet drawer dimensions as they relate to the dimensions of the cabinet itself? So many videos exist on drawer construction but not much on how to figure out drawer sizes for the cabinet openings. Thank you for your time and effort. Great content, excellent teaching skills.
@TerraTN Hope you didn't go that route. Best way is to make cabinet first, then drawers.
Nice job on the drawer slides Jon! Thank you for sharing the video with us! 👌👍😎JP
Thanks! Was looking to build drawers for shop and already sweating at the cost of metal sliders- definitely going to do this wood thing, but not a fraction as nice and square / smooth as your install 😂
Great instructions…. But I’m so glad I’m in the uk where I can work in metric!
Does it matter what type of wood is used for the cleats? Would maple be ok?
These drawers will slide much more easily if you put thumb tacks on all 4 (top and bottom) back corners of the drawer and on the top of the runner/cleat at the front end. You will need about 1/8 to 3/16 extra clearance. Works best if you relieve the bottom front of the runner to allow the thumb tacks to clear each other as you insert the drawers.
👍 true thumb tacks work great
What a great tip! Thank you. And thank you for writing “slide more easily.” Proper English grammar-what a treat!
Great example. But I'like to know the whole project of that piece of furniture. Maybe you posted it? Where can i find it?
Thank you
How much space/play do you allow on the left and right of each drawer ?
thank you, now do you stop the drawers from coming right out
Add a little block at the end of the cleat. Just let it hang down about a half of inch into the Drawer.
Jon, great video and project. What’s the height of this cabinet with and without the casters? Thanks!
Thanks Mark, without the casters the cabinet measures 28 3/4 from the bottom to the top. Thanks for watching and happy woodworking!
Thanks Jon! What kind of finish and/or wax do you use to help the drawers slide?
I was going to mention that simple paraffin wax bars rubbed directly onto the drawers and sliders on the spaces where they meet is plenty to keep them gliding smoothly for a long time! I do this on all my antique furniture to keep the drawers from sticking.
Just what I needed to see, thanks. I am curious, all the wood looks like pine. Is there a reason to use a hardwood cleat?
If you put heavy things in the drawer, how easily does it slide?
I've been curious about drawer designs that don't use metal slides. This looks great. I might suggest waxing the sliding surfaces to reduce friction.
You did suggest, no might about it.
@@JamesBiggar It's a figure of speech.
I WANT TO CHANGE MY LAZY SUSAN TO DRAWERS> WHAT KIND OF SLIDES WOULD YOU SAY I SHOULD USE > OR DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON IT WHICH YOU DID
Great work Jon! I always learn a few things from watching one of your videos............. 👍👍
Does the weight of the contents inside the drawer have an effect on how easy/hard it is to push/pull the drawer?
Im sure it does. A coat of paste wax helps that though.
It is far easier and no chance of errors if you use the drawer itself plus a piece of card as the spacer to align the runners. With your method, there is a possibility of an error in transferring the measurement from the drawer to the ply template.
Look. Harvey Keitel is building drawers 😀
Thanks Jon you’re the best
Hey Jon, did this ever get built and the follow up video uploaded? I couldn't find anything on your channel. Thank you.
Hi Henry, yes this is the link and there are also plans for this project on my website.
ruclips.net/video/viQtUujxq-8/видео.htmlsi=suJw_zT2pajP5Ewf
Is there a video on how to make the cabinet?
Will this work on butt joint drawers - those that don’t have a raised bottom?
I like the idea of not using metal hardware, but I do have a question. I live in an old Victorian home that has some built in cabinets what use essentially the same approach you show here. After (many) years of use, the wooden cleats as well as the bottom of the side of the drawers have worn such that the drawers to not sit right anymore. Do you recommend a way to reinforce these parts so that they remain sitting correctly?
positive comment for the algorithm. the other commenters have said it all!
Anyone finish the cleats with a protective coat to get a near perfect/smooth drawer slide motion?
Beautiful
What is your technique for keeping the drawers from falling out when pulled too far? One reason I like regular slides.
You can make a groved track with a Router and have it slide in a track on the side of the inner walls.
Or you could make the front face and backface drawer sides higher than the sides and just have a stop pkug on the inside of the walls.
Good job
Question: Do you have a method for keeping those drawers from being pulled out too far?? ... or pushed in too far without a drawer face that overlaps the face frame??
When he puts a back on the cabinet, the drawers will butt into it and be flush in the front plus I am guessing he will probably add a drawer face.
@@jtltet That'll keep them from going in too far, what keeps them from being pulled out too far??
@@barpluc3977 Hopefully common sense...lol
@@jtltet I guess I'm the only person to have ever pulled a drawer system like that out a quarter inch too far and scattered the contents all over the place. ... especially if the drawer is so deep it goes all the way to the back of the cabinet.
If I'm using that guide system, I make the back of the drawer 5" from the back of the sides so it warns me i'm at the depth of the drawer before pulling it out all the way. But he didn't build his that way. In his case you must hold the front of the drawer up to see what's in the back, if you let it go, it'll go to the floor.
@@barpluc3977, the back of his drawer is a few inches from the back of the cabinet. Also, if you pull it out far enough to see in the back of the drawer and let go, the cleats from the drawer above prevent the drawer from tipping and falling out. I don't see a problem with it, plus this is his cabinet. The rest of us can build ours however we please. I like this for cost savings in a workshop cabinet.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! As a matter of curiosity, have you ever tried applying laminate to the runners or the drawer bottoms?
How much space should be left between the cabinet sides and the drawer sides?
About a 32nd
@@JonPetersArtHome thank you greatly.
Buen video reciba saludos de Puerto Rico...
Very helpful Jon, thank you.
Always instructive!
Great build. I would like to know what battery powered nailer you were using in the video. The bright green one.
Daniel, I did a little looking and found what I think is that nailer - it's a unique (and pricey) one, if I am correct: www.nailgundepot.com/grex-gc1850-cordless-18-ga-brad-nailer-2-details.html Operates off of AAA batteries and "fuel cells," which look like they are basically compressed air cylinders (a bit like CO2 cartridges).
@@jimconway4422 Thank you for finding that. I agree it is a bit pricey. Since I'm not to the point of buying one I'll keep looking and trying to compare notes. This is very helpful. Thanks Again.
I just put UHMW tape on the runners and they glide better
Awesome work Jon, thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
how do you put the stoppers so the drawers won't fly out when u pull them out...
Super sir
Now this is def. within in 3MG'z skill set🤣👍. Well done as always Bud. Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out !!
nice job jon...i don't think we need sliders on all applications specially on some furniture as far as kitchen cabinets i rather use full sliders...by the way i like the adds...
😮Link to base build??
Use soap on the drawers to pull/push easily
Can I not get these plans if I'm not apart of the makers mob?
Hey Jon. Nice work as always. One question I've always had while watching your videos is, what is the deal with the masking tape on your Rip Fence Handle? I would always see it and thought it was an old, splintered wooden handle. But just recently noticed it was masking tape. So why the tape?
Good video, thanks for sharing !!
LOL, I bought two Zero-G hoses, one was 50’ and the other 100’. By the end of the second season, both blew open but great video though
Mine are great two years no problems... take them back five year warranty
Why do you leave the ~1 inch at the back of the drawers?
Helps to keep the drawers from falling out of the cabinet
@@JonPetersArtHome That makes sense.....Merry Christmas
@@owenshaver964 Merry Christmas
Great video, thanks, Jon! Building some larger drawers that may be fairly heavily loaded, but still want to try wooden slides. Did you use hard wood for the runners? I was going to use maple and coat with Slipit r equivalent for easier sliding. Thanks!
I use poplar but maple will work great 👍
Digging the beard and lock man!
Ahhhh spacer on the wider cleats, I was so concerned you’re drawers where going to be out of square! 🤪
Could I make kitchen cabinets like this?
Sure
Nice! I've made all of my shop rolling carts this way! But my question is not about that, but on how your table saw runs so smooth....what kind of belt do you run on it?
@@boppins thanks for the reply. Mine is mounted on a hinge. It uses the the weight of the motor to put tension on the belt. It's a Delta 36-979
Simple and easy. Thanks Jon!
What model is the cordless brad nailer you're using? And what is your experience with it? I am looking for a cordless brad nailer, looking at all the options. Cheers from Mexico!
I think it is a Grex GC1850. It's a unique (and pricey) one, if I am correct: www.nailgundepot.com/grex-gc1850-cordless-18-ga-brad-nailer-2-details.html Operates off of AAA batteries and "fuel cells," which look like they are basically little compressed air cylinders (a bit like CO2 cartridges). Hope that helps.
@@jimconway4422 thanks! Pricey indeed
"How did that happen?" I'm relieved even you make mistakes! Now if I can only replicate your successes!
tres bien
Jon this was a wonderful video. Thank you for sharing. Is there a video or even a photo of the finished product? After putting the drawer fronts on?
How do you measure....? That's very confusing
@@dropndeal i meant like the terms... three quarters of feet and etcetera.... lil bit confusing 😕
eBay Jon, that's where you go to save!
No. Unless there's a liquidation, items on Ebay typically cost more because the seller and Ebay both take a % on top of the original retail price. If you want savings, DIY or deal with the manufacturer directly - the more people involved in distributing and selling a product, the more the price goes up, not the other way around. Economics 101.
How the chuff does anyone work with feet and inches?! It's like the dark ages.
Yes . It’s great isn’t it 😊
Everything on my body is either feet or inches nothing metric about them. ( I do use metric for my finer measurements wood or metal)
As much as I like the idea of wooden rails to save money, doesn't the wood after a short time move causing bind ups? Also, wood is not all that slippery for sliding drawers with weight...and how about stops to prevent drawers from sliding out too much?
The wood movement question really depends frankly. If installing the runners the correct way, the radial expansion and contraction is nominal, especially if using proper species that is well dried and it will be in a well climate controlled area. Still you can't stop all movement, but you can account for that little bit with a slightly looser fit between the drawer and runners vertically. Also, if using a good hard wood for runners and the drawers with some paste wax, you get incredibly smooth operation even with weight. And yes, there are many ways to incorporate stops.
Wooden furniture with wooden drawer slides have been manufactured for hundreds of years. It is a time honored and proven technology.