For installing the trem springs, loosen up the claw so it's close, but not quite unscrewed and still has plenty of screw attached to the wood. Much easier to hook the springs on, then retighten. As far the old bridge hitting the cavity, loosen the claw so the trem block isn't so close to the cavity, intonate and adjust the action. Or, a brass tremblock would work as well.
Hey, Jake. Glad you got the "going out of tune problem" worked out. I hope your hand healed from the last gig. You had to smooth out the new stainless steel nut, I reckon. I hope you gig tonight. I would like to see Frequency have a gig without technical problems. Best regards, John...
@johnbrady1211 thanks John! I’m sorry I miss all the comments until after the show. I need to find a way to get a little screen that will show them to me in real-time while I’m up there!
Get a tremalone, look it up, and get a $125.00 Floyd without fine tuners. The very first Floyd Rose did not have fine tuners. They are now being reproduced.
He would still need the neck and nut shims, Plus a dremmel tool and a drill.. it actually more expensive to mod the baretta special rather than buying a kramer baretta vintage.... or get a used vegatrem for cheaper.
The tail or back of the bridge should sit or “float” ever so slightly just above the body of the guitar, not be flat against it when it’s in the resting position. is that what you noticed as well ?
@@jstnR It can float as much as you desire but there is always a loss or gain. I find the more the back end floats the more up pull you have and the easier it is to manipulate the bridge, weakness is it leaves very little room to dive. You can create room to dive if you extend the back cavity. I digress. No, what I meant about floating was the front end of the bridge should float to the point that there is no contact with the body at all even on a full dive bomb. A six screw bridge can be setup like any full floating bridge. No one ever thinks about the front end.
@@bluwng i set my fender strats up like this..They stay in tune very well.What works for me most of the time is after i float the front of bridge plate off the body just like 16th.i slide a credit card under the bridge plate in the back and tune from there..If thr bridge it uprught to much i adjust the claw ..I do this till i get that in the middle float..Pretty kool to have a 6 screw trem flaoting and can actually be used in both directions and stay in tune...Doesnt work like a floyd rose but works for what it is very well
For installing the trem springs, loosen up the claw so it's close, but not quite unscrewed and still has plenty of screw attached to the wood. Much easier to hook the springs on, then retighten. As far the old bridge hitting the cavity, loosen the claw so the trem block isn't so close to the cavity, intonate and adjust the action. Or, a brass tremblock would work as well.
Hey, Jake. Glad you got the "going out of tune problem" worked out. I hope your hand healed from the last gig. You had to smooth out the new stainless steel nut, I reckon.
I hope you gig tonight. I would like to see Frequency have a gig without technical problems.
Best regards, John...
Hey John, thanks! I will be streaming from 7PM-11PM eastern tonight!
@@BigJakeMusic I will be there, well, virtually...
@johnbrady1211 thanks John! I’m sorry I miss all the comments until after the show. I need to find a way to get a little screen that will show them to me in real-time while I’m up there!
I have installed a wilkinson bridge, with a graphtusk nut and locking tuners and my guitar doesnt stay in tune😢..
The holes in the side are for air circulation.
The Tremalone is a jig for locating the posts for a floyd.
Yas stock bridge really needs an upgrade , is the nut necessary too? why you choose copper?
Thanks Jake!
Get a tremalone, look it up, and get a $125.00 Floyd without fine tuners. The very first Floyd Rose did not have fine tuners. They are now being reproduced.
He would still need the neck and nut shims, Plus a dremmel tool and a drill.. it actually more expensive to mod the baretta special rather than buying a kramer baretta vintage.... or get a used vegatrem for cheaper.
It’s a good video
I can tell you the proper way to fully float a six screw bridge.
The tail or back of the bridge should sit or “float” ever so slightly just above the body of the guitar, not be flat against it when it’s in the resting position. is that what you noticed as well ?
@@jstnR It can float as much as you desire but there is always a loss or gain. I find the more the back end floats the more up pull you have and the easier it is to manipulate the bridge, weakness is it leaves very little room to dive. You can create room to dive if you extend the back cavity. I digress. No, what I meant about floating was the front end of the bridge should float to the point that there is no contact with the body at all even on a full dive bomb. A six screw bridge can be setup like any full floating bridge. No one ever thinks about the front end.
@@bluwng i set my fender strats up like this..They stay in tune very well.What works for me most of the time is after i float the front of bridge plate off the body just like 16th.i slide a credit card under the bridge plate in the back and tune from there..If thr bridge it uprught to much i adjust the claw ..I do this till i get that in the middle float..Pretty kool to have a 6 screw trem flaoting and can actually be used in both directions and stay in tune...Doesnt work like a floyd rose but works for what it is very well
You may have already done this, but make sure your tuning machines are snug.