@@jack73ist you're very welcome! By the way, I fixed myself the engine, I pulled a head from an engine in the scrap yard and I installed it. The rest of the engine was un-damaged. Strange, all mechanics that I consulted refused to repaire it, they said it is not worth. I spend max 500$ for the head, gasket set and took me 2 months almost (since I worked only in my free time, outside of the garage - when was sunny). The car runs great, I did 2 oil changes since (2 x 1000 km), 3rd one is approaching.
Think I have this exact issue on my Audi TT mk2 with the exact same engine. Even took it to my local Audi dealer to have it checked out, and they said they didn't hear anything strange, which I don't trust. Looks like i'll have to do it myself, but this video will make that a whole lot easier!
Thanks for watching mate! Yeah the MK 2 TTs run the same engine, the TTs runs the CDLC version you find in the S3 and Golf R, you get alot more space to work with in the TT to so hopfully makes the job a little easier. Feel free to ask if you run into and hurdles.
Hey mate got the Audi TT with this motor. Great Video . Would like to find out if you don’t change this in time what could happen. God Bless you Brother.
Wish you were my friend living nearby, so we could replace some parts in the evening hours and drink a beer while doing so! None of my friends have golden hands haha. Greets from the Netherlands
Oh mate no better way to spend the spare hours of the day! Unfortunately youtube will have to make do for now haha. I'm flattered mate but I wouldn't call them golden hands, just love engines and the work! Haha greeting from here in Australia😁
Hey great video i think its time for my timing chain service> wondering the best place to buy camshaft locking tool seeing lots of scary reviews online of the tools snapping
Great video! What's a ball park quote/range for a job like this to be done at an independent mechanic shop? Also, how many kms did that mk5 gti had on the odometer?
Thanks for the vid and great work! I'm doing the same thing right now and I'm having trouble taking off the chain cover housing. I've got all 7 main bolts off and all the external attachments as well but am not able to take off the cover. the rear portion of the housing towards the back of the engine broke off and the tensioner and chain also broke off, so that may have something to do with being unable to take it off. Do you have any other ideas why I'm unable to take it off, or am I missing a step that's easily overlooked?
Hey man. Question on the part at 14.09 what is that part called? Mine broke and have no clue what’s its called and part number. Appreciate it you could advise me on that. Thanks man
Mate, one of the best informative videos on RUclips, step by step guide and explanations of everything. Good on ya. I have a few turbo cars, mk5 gti is one of them. I've saved your video when I do mine, soon. I reckon even the most non-technical person could follow this video. Can't say enough good things. Cheers
Would this be a similar procedure for the 1.4 tsi 140? I’m getting various fault codes coming up P2293, P0238, P0098, P0237 Already changed a MAP sensor.
Any idea why I cannot put the cam locking tool in the holes like you did at 21:09 min? I aligned all at top dead center like you did. Should the engine be rotated TWICE by hand at tdc to do this? I closed up the engine and ran it. runs a little rough after my timing job and no codes. Cam, crank arrows are lining up with the arrows using factory plastic. I might open up the engine cover again and retry doing what you did tomorrow. But I cannot lock the cams in place with that plate tool. lol
When the chain is stretched, it can throw the cam shafts out of alignment, enough to throw a cam shaft correlation fault code, in this case, if possible, with enough slack I rotatated the cam shat with a spanner on the exhaust cam shaft sprocket bolt and cam tool on the back of the intake cam shaft. You may have to remove the tensioner to get more slack, start fresh with the new gear, if the chain has been that stretched though, I would look at replacing the came shaft adjuster aswell, it will likely be worn out. Thank you for warching mate, I hopes this helps, let me k ow how you go and feel free to ask any questions if you get stuck
@@jack73ist Thanks. I used your guide as a reference for audi a4 2007 and did the job. I have one post job issue. Its puzzling still because I drove the car like 3 times 15 min each time and the obd scanner value did not change for me still 6.3 for camshaft position at 93 when engine warm. I am thinking maybe my new installed ebay tensioner was bad. Didn't look like it spring up. I have two routes: Is it possible to just replace the tensioner no chain? Can this value of 6.3 change if I drive the car more often you think?
Recently did this as well between this and other guides it helped alot thanks. Only thing is when I put the chain assembly back together it looked all good as it should but when I took the pin out I felt no pressure from the spring it had in there which i had felt before and the chain was sitting slightly loose. Maybe a long shot for someone to answer but is that normal? Kinda trippin alittle bit what if doesn't have the proper pressure and I have to do it all again eventually 😅
Greetings from NSW! Thanks for a great video... very detailed and informative! Just wondering how you would decide whether to replace just the tensioner as opposed to both chain and tensioner? Obviously there's not much additional cost in parts but quite a bit of extta work and specialised tools.
Thanks for watching mate! and glad it's helping. Well when left too long before replacing after the chain has already become noisy, a stenched chain will throw and crank shaft - cam shaft out of correlation fault code, as the cam is now out of spec the same as skipping a tooth. the tensioner has an internal spring that can wear out and loose its spring pressure also causing the same kind of rattle, but chain rattles are more consistent and will be intermittent even after oil pressure has built up. you can also get a noisy cam shaft adjuster, but usually the vehicle will also be lacking a noticeable of amount power as the cam shaft adjustment isn't carried out correctly through through RPM range, if the engine is above 200 000kms I'd recommend replacing the adjuster too but not necessary if you arnt noticeing any power drop. I would recommend doing the chain with the tensioner as you can't really tell which one is causing the rattle, but if one is worn and noisy, the other isn't far behind
@@jack73ist Hey mate, thanks for the detailed reply, that's really helpful! I just got this car (it's a 2010 S3 - 8P) and it really goes well so no power loss issue but it sounds like a diesel. I haven't had a direct injection car before but it still seems a bit much. It definitely has a bit of an extra rattle at startup which I guess is the tensioner building pressure but some noise continues. I used a stethoscope on it yesterday and I can definitely hear a metallic sound coming from the chain area whenever the engine is running. So, I guess I should really do the chain as well. I saw you had a nice cam holder and and also another tool for turning the exhaust cam. I was wondering where might be the best place to purchase these and whether there is any particular brand? Thanks again for all your help mate, I really appreciate it!
@@geneqco no dramas mate, I built a few APR Stage 3 8P S3s, as well as the vw golf mk 6 R version ( same car ) very impressive making roughly around 330kws about 6 or so years ago, no problems putting the power down. most of the focus is on the newer MK7s now. But hoping to build more in the near future. They can be abit of a noisy engine, you will hear the ticks from the injectors, the fuel pump can also be a little noisy I'm the housing but if you get a rattle at the back of the house away from the pump and you have a rattle on start up, it's a goo sign the chain/tensioner or cam adjuster is out, you can check your cam adjuster using a vcds or compatible scan tool, checking the cam adjustment in measuring values, usually sits around 30% sometimes shown as 30kw and adjusts with rpm up to 60% (60kw) at high RPM, if sluggish or is stuck on a certain value, cam adjuster is stuffed, they usually rattle then seize in one position, over advances or retarded, usually losing top end power or low end torque, you'll know you've lost power. My work place provides most of the tools but since I build alot of BWA engine golfs at home, we got our own kit, I just typed in BWA cam shaft timeing tools in ebay and it came up, I've provided the part number for the poll drive near the start of the video, That's a must to avoid damaging the adjuster bolt, it will be tight to break the tension so keep the bar at 90 degrees as best possible, maybe get someone to hold it in place for you.
Great video. From 21:51 onwards I notice that you use a spanner to hold the camshaft while you unscrew the camshaft adjuster bolt. Two questions on this: 1. Is this because the camshaft locking tool is not strong enough? 2. What size is the spanner? Thanks
It was more to help support the locking tool, these bolts can be locked so tight. There is another tool you can get that has a set of folks that locates into the exhast sprocket but its quite expensive and I couldn't justify buying it. I used a 17mm spanner
A stretched chain can effect the valve over lap between the intake and exhaust cams, would ussually check if the chains noisy during the pre tune checks we did, but would want to get onto the chain sooner than later. Definitely can effect performanc, hope thaglt helps mate, and thanks for watching 🙂
Yesterday when I got my 3 t screws off the vacuum pump, the pump would not budge off. My finger tips hurt lol did you pry it out a bit? Also I put the car in tdc with the cam belt sprocket marking, so I’m not sure of that really snugged you the vacuum pump making it hard to remove. Or it could’ve be the metal gasket got jammed in there when installing the rkx gaskets with the metal gasket
Yeah they can get jammed, just a tight fit with the oring, I used to pry is clockwise and anti clockwise to help un come stuck, then walk it off evenly, try pull it out as straight as possible to avoid damage
I used a small pry bar, the angle helps but they do get fairly stuck on there, I remember there is a tab to can lightly push against on the pump, you have to walk it off and straght as possible to avoid it binding
Okay yeah those tabs, I’ll give it a shot. I hit the parts store in my gti today @3pm for some black silicone just in case I need to take off the rocker cover and cam lol. I knew I forgot some thing
@@jack73ist thanks. I did some prying on the tabs and little by little I worked it off👌🏽 I got the hpfp off. Can follower in 90% perfect shape lol I placed a new one 3400 miles ago. I would keep working and get my cam cover off, to spill to the good news & inspect my chain so I can sleep at night. But I don’t want to wake up and have a puddle of oil on the oil pan lol we have a nice pavers driveway my grandma would be mad lol. So I guess I’ll go with taking off my valve cover, & then leave it covered til the morning 👌🏽
Hey great Video, i have a question in the VW Mk5 Golf N/A FSI 2.0L (not the turbo) the cam follower is in different location, have you ever looked at them? and do you know is it the same part number that goes in as the Turbo engine.?
Thank you mate, and thank you for watching! I have never actually had to change the cam follower in the fsi golfs, I dont think the fuel pump piston is under the same stress as the forced induction engines, when I used to tune the mk5s and mk6 golf Rs, youd see the follower wear out far more rapidly and would need more regular inspections. If it does have one, and is worn, it should be the same, but you can always call vw and they're ussually happy to give you the part number using your vin number 🙂
@@jack73ist Thanks for the reply, Greatly appreciated. yes it does run a completely different can lobe system as well more like an oval shape and not the three tier like the Turbo models. I'll give VW a call and get a genuine one.
Thank you mate and thank you for watching! It is great to get an understanding with whats involved and how things work so that we can better understand ouf vehicles. Hope its helped 🙂
@@jack73ist Helped for sure. I'm actually due to have the cambelt service done, as well as the chain/tensioner/guides/waterpump/thermostat. After that I can start playing with power mods 😀
@@stephenpato5524 she'll be right and ready for the increase once all that is taken care of mate! Definitely a great idea to take care of preventative maintenance and don't forget, with a power increace, you'll need more stopping power too brakes will need attention, the standard brakes will do their job for a while but a brake pad with brake rotor upgrade or complete brake caliper upgrade kit will be required. Once you start reaching speeds with alot higher acceleration, you'll reach a corner faster then anticipated haha Great cars up mountains 👌
@@jack73ist Yes correct, I just fit 4 brand new Pilot Sport 4 tyres (235/45/17) , Brembo OEM replacement discs (drilled)/pads in front, Audi OEM discs/pads rear. Late year did OEM PCV (was leaking), NGK BKR7EIX plugs, air filter, battery, and have been maintaining 7k KMs oil change intervals. Still quite a lot to do but chipping away bit by bit 👍🏽
I will be performing this soon, just waiting for my adjuster sprocket, socket, cam lever & locking tool to arrive Saturday. But I was wondering, I had changed all 3 seals & gaskets on the vacuum pump back in March. Would it hurt to take off the pump again? Does taking it on and off mess up new seals?
Thanks for watching mate, I have removed and replaced a few chains without replacing the seals on some cars in the passed with newish seals, we would smear a light amount of locktight 518 sealant, on the oring, three bond will provably do the job too.. but see how you go, I would recommend replacing the seals anyway, when ever parts are removed, theres always that risk of damage or tearing the seals. Hope that helps mate 🙂 hope all goes well with the replacment ahead, feel free to ask any questions too 🤙
@@jack73ist thanks for the tip. I also have an issue where I attempted to remove and clean my n205 valve, & the connector had oil. Do they sell o rings separately, or do I need to buy a new n205 valve or is it just clogged? I will clean it today with maf sensor cleaner , it’s just I lost my t20 so I had to pick up another set yesterday. Then last night I noticed that the sensor located under the timing cover , is leaking oil thru the connector as well and down the harness but it’s on the plastic wire cover.. I looked up what sensor is it, but I couldn’t find anywhere. it’s the sensor under the timing cover right by the coolant flange
@@CR15PY1 unfortunately mate, if its coming through the actual connector pins in the plug, the internal seals in that valve are gone I'd say, I've replacesd these valves in the past when they lock up and fail and you lose power because you've lost cam adjustment. See how you go, and lost the tiny t20 securing bolts? I thought they smaller, I've done that too and they go missing so easily 😅 it can be fiddle, I used to dab the tip of the torx bit screwe driver in vasoline to help hold the bolt onto the skrew driver, it ussually works haha As for the other valve, I'm not sure which sensor you may be talking about sorry
Awesome tip about the torx screws lol. And no I didn’t lose the n205 screws, I lost my torx bit t20 lol but I bought a new set yesterday so I’m good to go. I will take off my n205 valve today, and yeah after discovering the valve I figured that the valve itself messed up my cam adjustment. I did lose power, so do you think my cam chain, tensioner, adjuster, is okay?? I was going to replace all that today but maybe it is just a faulty n205 valve lol
@@jack73ist the broken stuck open valve , must be the reason for the mysterious oil leak down the back of the block. I’m going to do my cam chain today still lol wish me luck
It is best to get a new gasket with the parts but the supplier I purchased from forgot to order it, was also supposed to get a new adjuster aswell, have used locktite 518 manny times to reseal the housing and works well 🙂
Yeah mate, the Audi's are very difficult being so close to the firewall, if you strip the cM adjuster bolt, you have to remove the cam shafts to drill it out! Have had to do it myself haha.
@@bartek_15 we went with genuine and got things separate, depending on the kms on your vehicle it may also be worth replacing the cam adjuster, the low oil pressure on 1st start up after running dry after a chain can push them over the edge in the high km range
Thanks mate! And thank you for watching. The hatch wing on this one is OEM plastic, we are in the process of seeking a larger one and the front splitter on the Bumper is aftermarket plastic, I'll have to ask my brother and get back to you. It is the front bumper splitter you are talking about isn't it??
@@jack73ist sorry I'm not talking about her. I'm French I have trouble with the language, I'm talking about the 3 seal that you change at 36 minutes from the video
@@wolffr9479 sorry mate, ah I see the carbon sealing rings for the hydrolic cam adjuster, selected stores like HSY or IMPARTS may sell them here in Australia, they are sold separately, We got ours genuine from Volkswagon, they go brittle and can crack on removal and installation, sometimes you can get away with out replacing them but I like to replace them to avoid the potential of failure
Not to confuse people but this is actually referred to as the cam chain. Car is timing belt driven on the drivers side of the vehicle. Good video though!
Thank you mate, yes you are right it definitely could be confused as the MK6 gti ccz engines are the chain driven ones, I'll change the title! Thank you 😁
Hey mate, thatnks for watching!! I'll do some digging and see if I can find them, its been a while haha, From memory, I believe you can only get them genuine from VW/Audi
Thanks for watching mate. All found on Ebay except for the poly drive, but I just googled that part and ordered it from one of the 1st tool shop links. This is the link to the cam shaft lock kit. www.ebay.com.au/itm/7Pcs-Engine-Camshaft-Alignment-Timing-Tool-Kit-Set-For-VW-Audi-2-0L-FSI-TFSI-/143331229845?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0 To search parts you can just type VW 2.0 FSI BWA engine, CDLC for the golf r and Audi s3. Hope that helps mate
Thanks mate, and thank you for watching 😄, usually, we would replace only when necessary, symptoms like a chain rattle on 1st start up, (can sometimes be the adjuster) , inlet/exhaust cam shafts out of corralation fault codes, this problem would ussually occur roughly around 160k kms. You could probably do the jobs as preventative maintenance before hand around 135k km, with the service but this also all depends on car history, hows its driven and serviced
Thanks for watching mate, yes they are, they run slightly different camshafts and the KO4 turbo standard but the chain side is the same as is the majority of the engine, still a favourite engine of mine too👌 well proven
Hey need help mine is really ticking loudly like a rod knock but it comes from what you removed and I started removing it and inside the casing there was scratch marks on the inside wall do you know what could be the problem not to sure if changing the chaîne and tensioner would help and I got the Stop ENGINE Oil pressure CEL, I removed the oil pan cleaned out the oil pickup, I checked the oil pressure switch everything is ok but since that CEL For Oil pressure came on it started doing that rattle coming from the cam shaft casing please I need help I don’t want to blow up my engine
Hey mate, thank you for watching. unfortunately to right off the bat, it sounds like you may potentially have an oil restriction somewhere causing a lack of lubrication, trying not to jump to any conclusions yet ofcourse, the scratches could be a symptom of another issue to do with the lubrication system, on a vw BWA engine, the oil pumps them selves seemed to be ok as far as my experience with them, I didnt see any failures besides one where the clearance between the suction gear for the pump ( not sure what they're called ) had a clearance to high amd wasn't able to draw oil efficiently. I would definitely try not to run the engine to avoid any damage. Pull the oil filter off and cut out the paper element being very careful not to cut yourself. Inspect for metal fragments
@@jack73ist hey man, thanks a lot for thé Quick reply so here’s what I’ve done so far since the STOP ENGINE OIL PRESURE light came on: Dropped oil pan, cleaned it really nice like brand new Removed the old oil pickup tube for a brand new one, New oil switch sensor New camshaft / HPFP bucket (with the 4 little holes 🤣 don’t know how to call it) I removed the camshaft timing chain housing and saw nothing really wrong with it except for big scratches on the inside of the housing but once I removed the housing their was no oil in the cap like yours… if their was no oil pressure should it pop up at startup? Because right now at start up it never shows up I could let the car run on idle all day and it wouldn’t pop up so I’m really questioning what’s going on and what to look for cause I’m really lost and hoping to find a good answer to my problems…. Why would their be scratch marks on the inside of the housing ????? And 2nd? - why is it making a ticking sound like really loud I will post a video on my Chanel in less than 15 minutes for you to actually see what I’m taking about thanks you
@@BoostedEk8 from the video, it actually sounds normal for this engine, but it is hard to tell through the phone, the injectors on these engine aswell as the high pressure fuel pump can tick pretty loudly.. Have you replaced your cam chain already? Ussually clear sign of stretched chain and worn tennsuoner is really.loud rattle on cold start, if the chain is strtched enough, it can throw a camshaft out of corralation fualt code and even evap emmsions control fault codes
@@BoostedEk8 from the video, it actually sounds normal for this engine, but it is hard to tell through the phone, the injectors on these engine aswell as the high pressure fuel pump can tick pretty loudly.. Have you replaced your cam chain already? Ussually clear sign of stretched chain and worn tennsuoner is really.loud rattle on cold start, if the chain is strtched enough, it can throw a camshaft out of corralation fualt code and even evap emmsions control fault codes, the scratch on the house are left there when the chain is loose enough to hit it, seen it on a few, she may be ok bro, but thats just from what I can hear in the video
You didn't count the links from the bronze one? Have to go by the 18/19 rule on the chain otherwise your timing will be out unless you got very very lucky
Thanks for the heads up mate, that's exactly what the elsawin manual states, it's another precaution to make sure you don't mess it up but the links are the same all way round, just helps you locate the adjuster onto the keyway. aslong as you turn the inlet cam when you lock the adjuster and the lobes line up the same on the cam cradle marks ( about half way travel along the lobe both high points facing inwards) your sweet, the cam lock should also slide effortlessly between the cams. I'm a europian vehicle mechanic and vdub and Audi specialist at the shop, have been lucky the last 20 chains haha, but in reality as you go, you figure out other ways to do things and what methods help what, helps make things more efficient, part of all the fun
@@jack73ist If you didn't count the links, why did you care with the colored chain in the video? The different color only helps counting the links between...
@@jack73istI have no earlier comment, until now. I'm just make it more comprehensible for others, since it is common that people are very confused about the timing logic, then making unnecessary steps and timing marks all over the car.
@@YOARTHFU sorry mate, thought you were the other person to comment on the coloured chain link, Check the reply above yours to K2weapon. Just showed how I've been replacing these timing chains for years. As I stated in that reply afer a while you learn what method is to insure what and where you can make the job more efficient. Links are the same all the way round on the chain, it just helps you locate the keyway onto the adjuster. As long as the cam lobes match half way across the rise on the arrows on the cam shaft cradle you'll be fine.
Thanks bro, and thank you for watching! Yeah I would avoid driving it, the chain eventually stretches to the point it throws the intake and exhaust valve timing out of correlation and the engine will ether missfire, be down on power or have difficulty starting. They also tend to wear into the houseing. Definitely don't want the chance of skipping teeth too. After its all been replaced, you shouldnt have to worry about it again for another 10 or so years
Yeah mate, thanks for watching! I have had to drill 2 that I Remember, One on a mk6 golf R and One on an A4, had to remove the cam shaft from A4 as they have a North/ south engine configuration witch places the adjuster right against the fire wall haha. If drilling out the bolt in a Golf, I rememoved the battary and used a Right angle drill, used a larger drill bit, as large as the polydrive pattern.. you only have to drill until the bolt head can be remmoved then is should wind it, it has a cone style bolt head for more surface area which is why they can be tricky to undo. Hope that helps
@@sMFq11 Just alot of experience one Audis and VW's haha wouldn't call my self a great technician yet haha I do appreciate the kind words though mate. As long as yountakenit slow and steady she'll be right. If you have anymore questions or run into and hurdles, don't hesitate to ask 🙂
haha well you know a hell of allot more than alot of people out there that's forsure. I've been working in a euro shop for about 12 years now and well the old RUclips still gets me out of a bind every now and then so we out here in the repair world appreciate good repair content like this! thank you
@@jack73ist my boss was telling me I was using the. wrong socket lol typical old grouchy guy but they are definitely tight on there and this one just decided to strip out on me and ruin a Monday morning haha
Great video! One question. Do you have a part number for the solenoid rings? I have searched everywhere but can't find them. Probably not using the proper German description.
Thank you for watching ! And thank you mate 🙂 No I dont unfortunately, but I'm pretty certain you can only get them genuine from VW/Audi, you'll need 3 and they're the carbon sealing rings for the cam adjuster solanoid, that incerts into the cam adjuster itselfselves, they'll definitely have their own name for it but I've only ever described them to the parts guys here in Australia
@@jack73ist I noticed your description said oil control solenoid rings. That helped a lot. The part number I found was 06F198107A. Looks to be the right thing.
I can't remember off the top of my head mate, its been a while, I'm pretty sure majority is still the same though, and if they had failed, I would have done them. We had no shortage of these timing chain and tensioner issues though 😅
@@jack73ist I recalled wrong, it's M16x54 (06A 105 229) but yes you're correct. In my head it was a hex bolt, but it's a triple square. I had to crank it today for cam-chain change operation. But I didn't have that socket. I used a hex 21mm; by luck, it sort of fits enough to spin it. But you're right, it should be a triple square 19mm socket, which should be what the M16 standard is I guess. Now I'm stuck with the polydrive in the cam phaser. I can't untighten it, it's inhuman. I tried to torch it, no luck. I don't have a good quality, long breaker bar, they're too costly for a one time job. I use a stupid tire bolt bar, but no luck. Do you put glue on the polydrive bit to make it keep its seating? I think I'll try with an impact wrench but I have to buy or rent one.
That goldsfilter on tensioner is a nightmare, I had to change tensioner twice because of that 😮 just be really careful guys it's just piece of mental but guys it's a really nightmare 😳
Thanks for watching mate, yes they can be incredibly tight, the conical surface of the bolt heads has more surface area to lock the bolt in place, as long as the polydrive bolt isn't damaged yet, I get the largest bar I have and someone to help push the end of the bar onto the bolt with a pry bar to hold pressure, bolt is standard right hand thread meaning Lefty loose. If that fails you can drill the bolt out slowly, usually do this when the bolt head strip's, you only have to drill untill the cone haed is removed and you can easily unwind the bolt but this does mean you have to replace that polydrive bolt, have to get one from and Volkswagen/ Audi supplier. Hope that helps mate
I need your help man, I’ve taken it apart twice now and triple check EVERYTHING and it still has a lumpy idle but drives fine. I’m located in Brisbane, reckon you could give me a hand?
Did the lumpy idle start after you replaced the chain mate? When the chain stretches or the tensioner is worn you usually just get a rattle on start up, or constant if really bad and will usually throw a cam shaft, crank shaft out of correlation fault code. A lumpy idle sounds like a vacuum leak to me, if only lumpy at idel, idel is when you will find the engine under the most vacuum so if you have a blown PSV, inlet manifold gasket, dip stick seal, Diverter valve for Example, it will draw in un-metered air causing the engine to hunt trying to correct itself using the O2 sensor
@@jack73ist yes it’s only idling poorly on idle. when I rev it, it’s fine and I look it for a spin and no loss of power it pulled normally. The chain made a slight rattle on start up but it went away instantly. It was idling smooth but when RPMS fell after cold start it started having a lumpy idle.
I think it’s not a timing issue because the idle changed back to normal for 20 seconds before returning to the lumpy idle again just before when I started it up.
Should have probably made it clear at the start but I’ve done the new chain and tensioner install and made sure everything is in time. Then all that started happening.
@@lukac3140 if you have a scanner handy you may find mixture lean fault codes, which would confirm a vacuum leak, is there any hissing you can hear around the engine? If you have any brake clean or carry cleaner you can spray some very short bursts around the engine to see if the idel picks up, that is where you may find the vacuum leak
You said that the spec for that bolt is 20nm. why are you using the wrong key? why are you putting that bolt so tight? I think you tightened that bolt to 150nm. you were almost to the point that the screw thread would break
@@AutosportMore you're making some big assumptions , you can find more information on ross teck wiki, and some other software, but I've just shown how I've carried out the job for years cheers mate 🙂 take it for what it is, find another video if you're not happy
Finished mine today, no longer sounds like a diesel engine!
Yeah they do get very noisy, so satisfying to hear them right right again😄
what makes the noise the chain?!
One of the best videos on yt on the subject. My chain just broke last friday. No more tensioner surfaces...
Strange, the belt is fine.
Merci beaucoup.
I appreciate the kind words mate, thank you ☺️
@@jack73ist you're very welcome!
By the way, I fixed myself the engine, I pulled a head from an engine in the scrap yard and I installed it. The rest of the engine was un-damaged. Strange, all mechanics that I consulted refused to repaire it, they said it is not worth. I spend max 500$ for the head, gasket set and took me 2 months almost (since I worked only in my free time, outside of the garage - when was sunny). The car runs great, I did 2 oil changes since (2 x 1000 km), 3rd one is approaching.
you can use one of the covers on the rear (in the engine bay) of the headlights for blocking off the turbo inlet :)
Cool video 🤙 and thanks great help too the big service on my gti 👌
Greetings
Sweden 🇸🇪
Just clicked my sprocket in about to torque it👌🏽 Success
I greatly thank you for posting this ☺️🫵🏻
No worries mate 🙂
Bro is nostalgic as hell. He has the mechanic trade marks. His ring around his neck and a dog in the shop 💪👍
Thanks brother ❤️
Very helpful!!! Everything in details….Just PROFESSIONAL!!! 😎
Thank you mate! And thank you for watching, hope it helped and appreciate the kind words 🙂
Think I have this exact issue on my Audi TT mk2 with the exact same engine. Even took it to my local Audi dealer to have it checked out, and they said they didn't hear anything strange, which I don't trust. Looks like i'll have to do it myself, but this video will make that a whole lot easier!
Thanks for watching mate! Yeah the MK 2 TTs run the same engine, the TTs runs the CDLC version you find in the S3 and Golf R, you get alot more space to work with in the TT to so hopfully makes the job a little easier.
Feel free to ask if you run into and hurdles.
@@jack73ist Really appreciated mate, thanks!
Hey mate got the Audi TT with this motor. Great Video . Would like to find out if you don’t change this in time what could happen. God Bless you Brother.
Thanks for sharing. Very nice video! 👍
No problem mate, thank you for watching 😁
Wish you were my friend living nearby, so we could replace some parts in the evening hours and drink a beer while doing so! None of my friends have golden hands haha. Greets from the Netherlands
Oh mate no better way to spend the spare hours of the day! Unfortunately youtube will have to make do for now haha. I'm flattered mate but I wouldn't call them golden hands, just love engines and the work! Haha greeting from here in Australia😁
Heb je zelf ook een Gti ?
@@notorioz810 zekers maar geen handige vrienden haha
Good video 👍👍👍
Thank you mate, and thank you for watching 🙂
Hey great video i think its time for my timing chain service> wondering the best place to buy camshaft locking tool seeing lots of scary reviews online of the tools snapping
Hey mate I got this set from eBay haha not the best quality but did the job fine
Great video! What's a ball park quote/range for a job like this to be done at an independent mechanic shop?
Also, how many kms did that mk5 gti had on the odometer?
Hey mate this was my mk 5 it had roughly 280,000 kms on the clock when this was done
Thanks for the vid and great work! I'm doing the same thing right now and I'm having trouble taking off the chain cover housing. I've got all 7 main bolts off and all the external attachments as well but am not able to take off the cover. the rear portion of the housing towards the back of the engine broke off and the tensioner and chain also broke off, so that may have something to do with being unable to take it off. Do you have any other ideas why I'm unable to take it off, or am I missing a step that's easily overlooked?
The camshaft adjuster solanoid can possibly be catching, bur thats from rough memory hahs
Hey man. Question on the part at 14.09 what is that part called? Mine broke and have no clue what’s its called and part number. Appreciate it you could advise me on that. Thanks man
Underrated video.
Mate, one of the best informative videos on RUclips, step by step guide and explanations of everything. Good on ya. I have a few turbo cars, mk5 gti is one of them. I've saved your video when I do mine, soon. I reckon even the most non-technical person could follow this video. Can't say enough good things. Cheers
Thanks you for watching mate, and thank you for the kind words and support, I do hope this video help, and it seems like it may be thankfully 😀
Great details 👌
Thank you and cheers for watching mate 😁
Would this be a similar procedure for the 1.4 tsi 140?
I’m getting various fault codes coming up
P2293, P0238, P0098, P0237
Already changed a MAP sensor.
The fault codes span a cross the market and ussually mean the same thing, as in simular codes across audi and vw
Any idea why I cannot put the cam locking tool in the holes like you did at 21:09 min? I aligned all at top dead center like you did. Should the engine be rotated TWICE by hand at tdc to do this? I closed up the engine and ran it. runs a little rough after my timing job and no codes. Cam, crank arrows are lining up with the arrows using factory plastic. I might open up the engine cover again and retry doing what you did tomorrow. But I cannot lock the cams in place with that plate tool. lol
When the chain is stretched, it can throw the cam shafts out of alignment, enough to throw a cam shaft correlation fault code, in this case, if possible, with enough slack I rotatated the cam shat with a spanner on the exhaust cam shaft sprocket bolt and cam tool on the back of the intake cam shaft. You may have to remove the tensioner to get more slack, start fresh with the new gear, if the chain has been that stretched though, I would look at replacing the came shaft adjuster aswell, it will likely be worn out.
Thank you for warching mate, I hopes this helps, let me k ow how you go and feel free to ask any questions if you get stuck
@@jack73ist Thanks. I used your guide as a reference for audi a4 2007 and did the job. I have one post job issue. Its puzzling still because I drove the car like 3 times 15 min each time and the obd scanner value did not change for me still 6.3 for camshaft position at 93 when engine warm. I am thinking maybe my new installed ebay tensioner was bad. Didn't look like it spring up.
I have two routes:
Is it possible to just replace the tensioner no chain?
Can this value of 6.3 change if I drive the car more often you think?
Awesome video! any chance of listing all parts and part numbers involved in this service?
What a good job man. Well done
Thank you mate! I appreciate the kind words, and thank you for watching 🙂
Recently did this as well between this and other guides it helped alot thanks. Only thing is when I put the chain assembly back together it looked all good as it should but when I took the pin out I felt no pressure from the spring it had in there which i had felt before and the chain was sitting slightly loose. Maybe a long shot for someone to answer but is that normal? Kinda trippin alittle bit what if doesn't have the proper pressure and I have to do it all again eventually 😅
Yeah mate, that should be normal, the chain tensioner will be under oil pressure once shes running, cams would just be slightly inward of each other
Greetings from NSW!
Thanks for a great video... very detailed and informative!
Just wondering how you would decide whether to replace just the tensioner as opposed to both chain and tensioner?
Obviously there's not much additional cost in parts but quite a bit of extta work and specialised tools.
Thanks for watching mate! and glad it's helping.
Well when left too long before replacing after the chain has already become noisy, a stenched chain will throw and crank shaft - cam shaft out of correlation fault code, as the cam is now out of spec the same as skipping a tooth. the tensioner has an internal spring that can wear out and loose its spring pressure also causing the same kind of rattle, but chain rattles are more consistent and will be intermittent even after oil pressure has built up.
you can also get a noisy cam shaft adjuster, but usually the vehicle will also be lacking a noticeable of amount power as the cam shaft adjustment isn't carried out correctly through through RPM range, if the engine is above 200 000kms I'd recommend replacing the adjuster too but not necessary if you arnt noticeing any power drop.
I would recommend doing the chain with the tensioner as you can't really tell which one is causing the rattle, but if one is worn and noisy, the other isn't far behind
@@jack73ist Hey mate, thanks for the detailed reply, that's really helpful!
I just got this car (it's a 2010 S3 - 8P) and it really goes well so no power loss issue but it sounds like a diesel. I haven't had a direct injection car before but it still seems a bit much. It definitely has a bit of an extra rattle at startup which I guess is the tensioner building pressure but some noise continues.
I used a stethoscope on it yesterday and I can definitely hear a metallic sound coming from the chain area whenever the engine is running. So, I guess I should really do the chain as well.
I saw you had a nice cam holder and and also another tool for turning the exhaust cam. I was wondering where might be the best place to purchase these and whether there is any particular brand?
Thanks again for all your help mate, I really appreciate it!
@@geneqco no dramas mate, I built a few APR Stage 3 8P S3s, as well as the vw golf mk 6 R version ( same car ) very impressive making roughly around 330kws about 6 or so years ago, no problems putting the power down. most of the focus is on the newer MK7s now. But hoping to build more in the near future.
They can be abit of a noisy engine, you will hear the ticks from the injectors, the fuel pump can also be a little noisy I'm the housing but if you get a rattle at the back of the house away from the pump and you have a rattle on start up, it's a goo sign the chain/tensioner or cam adjuster is out, you can check your cam adjuster using a vcds or compatible scan tool, checking the cam adjustment in measuring values, usually sits around 30% sometimes shown as 30kw and adjusts with rpm up to 60% (60kw) at high RPM, if sluggish or is stuck on a certain value, cam adjuster is stuffed, they usually rattle then seize in one position, over advances or retarded, usually losing top end power or low end torque, you'll know you've lost power.
My work place provides most of the tools but since I build alot of BWA engine golfs at home, we got our own kit, I just typed in BWA cam shaft timeing tools in ebay and it came up, I've provided the part number for the poll drive near the start of the video, That's a must to avoid damaging the adjuster bolt, it will be tight to break the tension so keep the bar at 90 degrees as best possible, maybe get someone to hold it in place for you.
Thank you so much, helpful!
Thank you and thank you for watching mate!
Great video. From 21:51 onwards I notice that you use a spanner to hold the camshaft while you unscrew the camshaft adjuster bolt. Two questions on this: 1. Is this because the camshaft locking tool is not strong enough? 2. What size is the spanner? Thanks
It was more to help support the locking tool, these bolts can be locked so tight. There is another tool you can get that has a set of folks that locates into the exhast sprocket but its quite expensive and I couldn't justify buying it. I used a 17mm spanner
It's in my 2006 SKODA Octavia too ...
Why didn't you remove the battery?
Great Video , Polydrive bit ,Not Torques , invaluable advise
Thank you mate and thank you for watching ❤️ I hope it helpped 🙂
Thankyou so much for this, really helped out 💯
No problem, I'm glad It helped🙂, thank you for watching and I appreciate the feed back!
My car started misfiring on idle after a cam shaft chain and tensioner change, it’s not coil or spark plugs, any suggestions?
If the car is tuned, and the cam chain is getting bad, will replacing all this help with the tune?
A stretched chain can effect the valve over lap between the intake and exhaust cams, would ussually check if the chains noisy during the pre tune checks we did, but would want to get onto the chain sooner than later. Definitely can effect performanc, hope thaglt helps mate, and thanks for watching 🙂
What was the GTi Mileage by the time you made the video? Usually these chais lasts a lot.... was it noisy during cold start?
Does this cause any lack of power symptoms or no?
Because it alters timing when the chain has stretched, it can. Ussually by this stage it will throw a timing coralation fault code.
Yesterday when I got my 3 t screws off the vacuum pump, the pump would not budge off. My finger tips hurt lol did you pry it out a bit? Also I put the car in tdc with the cam belt sprocket marking, so I’m not sure of that really snugged you the vacuum pump making it hard to remove. Or it could’ve be the metal gasket got jammed in there when installing the rkx gaskets with the metal gasket
Yeah they can get jammed, just a tight fit with the oring, I used to pry is clockwise and anti clockwise to help un come stuck, then walk it off evenly, try pull it out as straight as possible to avoid damage
Okay thank you. What can I pry it with? Pry bar would be better? I tried a flat head & it didn’t work well but scuff the aluminum lol
I used a small pry bar, the angle helps but they do get fairly stuck on there, I remember there is a tab to can lightly push against on the pump, you have to walk it off and straght as possible to avoid it binding
Okay yeah those tabs, I’ll give it a shot. I hit the parts store in my gti today @3pm for some black silicone just in case I need to take off the rocker cover and cam lol. I knew I forgot some thing
@@jack73ist thanks. I did some prying on the tabs and little by little I worked it off👌🏽 I got the hpfp off. Can follower in 90% perfect shape lol I placed a new one 3400 miles ago. I would keep working and get my cam cover off, to spill to the good news & inspect my chain so I can sleep at night. But I don’t want to wake up and have a puddle of oil on the oil pan lol we have a nice pavers driveway my grandma would be mad lol. So I guess I’ll go with taking off my valve cover, & then leave it covered til the morning 👌🏽
Hey great Video, i have a question in the VW Mk5 Golf N/A FSI 2.0L (not the turbo) the cam follower is in different location, have you ever looked at them? and do you know is it the same part number that goes in as the Turbo engine.?
Thank you mate, and thank you for watching! I have never actually had to change the cam follower in the fsi golfs, I dont think the fuel pump piston is under the same stress as the forced induction engines, when I used to tune the mk5s and mk6 golf Rs, youd see the follower wear out far more rapidly and would need more regular inspections.
If it does have one, and is worn, it should be the same, but you can always call vw and they're ussually happy to give you the part number using your vin number 🙂
@@jack73ist Thanks for the reply, Greatly appreciated. yes it does run a completely different can lobe system as well more like an oval shape and not the three tier like the Turbo models. I'll give VW a call and get a genuine one.
Awesome video! Although I'd never do this myself it's nice to know what's involved. I have an 8p A3 tfsi.
Thank you mate and thank you for watching! It is great to get an understanding with whats involved and how things work so that we can better understand ouf vehicles.
Hope its helped 🙂
@@jack73ist Helped for sure. I'm actually due to have the cambelt service done, as well as the chain/tensioner/guides/waterpump/thermostat. After that I can start playing with power mods 😀
@@stephenpato5524 she'll be right and ready for the increase once all that is taken care of mate! Definitely a great idea to take care of preventative maintenance and don't forget, with a power increace, you'll need more stopping power too brakes will need attention, the standard brakes will do their job for a while but a brake pad with brake rotor upgrade or complete brake caliper upgrade kit will be required. Once you start reaching speeds with alot higher acceleration, you'll reach a corner faster then anticipated haha
Great cars up mountains 👌
@@jack73ist Yes correct, I just fit 4 brand new Pilot Sport 4 tyres (235/45/17) , Brembo OEM replacement discs (drilled)/pads in front, Audi OEM discs/pads rear.
Late year did OEM PCV (was leaking), NGK BKR7EIX plugs, air filter, battery, and have been maintaining 7k KMs oil change intervals.
Still quite a lot to do but chipping away bit by bit 👍🏽
I will be performing this soon, just waiting for my adjuster sprocket, socket, cam lever & locking tool to arrive Saturday. But I was wondering, I had changed all 3 seals & gaskets on the vacuum pump back in March. Would it hurt to take off the pump again? Does taking it on and off mess up new seals?
Thanks for watching mate, I have removed and replaced a few chains without replacing the seals on some cars in the passed with newish seals, we would smear a light amount of locktight 518 sealant, on the oring, three bond will provably do the job too.. but see how you go, I would recommend replacing the seals anyway, when ever parts are removed, theres always that risk of damage or tearing the seals.
Hope that helps mate 🙂 hope all goes well with the replacment ahead, feel free to ask any questions too 🤙
@@jack73ist thanks for the tip. I also have an issue where I attempted to remove and clean my n205 valve, & the connector had oil. Do they sell o rings separately, or do I need to buy a new n205 valve or is it just clogged? I will clean it today with maf sensor cleaner , it’s just I lost my t20 so I had to pick up another set yesterday. Then last night I noticed that the sensor located under the timing cover , is leaking oil thru the connector as well and down the harness but it’s on the plastic wire cover.. I looked up what sensor is it, but I couldn’t find anywhere. it’s the sensor under the timing cover right by the coolant flange
@@CR15PY1 unfortunately mate, if its coming through the actual connector pins in the plug, the internal seals in that valve are gone I'd say, I've replacesd these valves in the past when they lock up and fail and you lose power because you've lost cam adjustment. See how you go, and lost the tiny t20 securing bolts? I thought they smaller, I've done that too and they go missing so easily 😅 it can be fiddle, I used to dab the tip of the torx bit screwe driver in vasoline to help hold the bolt onto the skrew driver, it ussually works haha
As for the other valve, I'm not sure which sensor you may be talking about sorry
Awesome tip about the torx screws lol. And no I didn’t lose the n205 screws, I lost my torx bit t20 lol but I bought a new set yesterday so I’m good to go. I will take off my n205 valve today, and yeah after discovering the valve I figured that the valve itself messed up my cam adjustment. I did lose power, so do you think my cam chain, tensioner, adjuster, is okay?? I was going to replace all that today but maybe it is just a faulty n205 valve lol
@@jack73ist the broken stuck open valve , must be the reason for the mysterious oil leak down the back of the block. I’m going to do my cam chain today still lol wish me luck
Thank you for this vid
Excellent Video! Great job! What’s your location?
Hello, Can i get the part number for those rings that you swapped on the side of the engine?
What can you do about a lobe that has DLC transfer onto it from the tappet?
Why you use gasket maker for the chain housing? There are special gaskets on the market
It is best to get a new gasket with the parts but the supplier I purchased from forgot to order it, was also supposed to get a new adjuster aswell, have used locktite 518 manny times to reseal the housing and works well 🙂
I have done this on my audi a4 but
You are lucky with that golf
I'n the audi it's more difficult
Yeah mate, the Audi's are very difficult being so close to the firewall, if you strip the cM adjuster bolt, you have to remove the cam shafts to drill it out! Have had to do it myself haha.
@@jack73ist
Yes me to 🤣
I had take the cams out
Legend, I might actually give this a go. Ace kiddo
Thanks for watching and the support mate! Feel free to ask any questions if you run into anything
@@jack73ist I sure will. Any advice on any particular timing chain kits ? Cheers bro :)
@@bartek_15 we went with genuine and got things separate, depending on the kms on your vehicle it may also be worth replacing the cam adjuster, the low oil pressure on 1st start up after running dry after a chain can push them over the edge in the high km range
hello nice job, little question that will save me, where did you buy the cabone wing? mine broke I can't find them
Thanks mate! And thank you for watching. The hatch wing on this one is OEM plastic, we are in the process of seeking a larger one and the front splitter on the Bumper is aftermarket plastic, I'll have to ask my brother and get back to you. It is the front bumper splitter you are talking about isn't it??
@@jack73ist sorry I'm not talking about her. I'm French I have trouble with the language, I'm talking about the 3 seal that you change at 36 minutes from the video
@@wolffr9479 sorry mate, ah I see the carbon sealing rings for the hydrolic cam adjuster, selected stores like HSY or IMPARTS may sell them here in Australia, they are sold separately, We got ours genuine from Volkswagon, they go brittle and can crack on removal and installation, sometimes you can get away with out replacing them but I like to replace them to avoid the potential of failure
@@jack73ist thanks you
@@wolffr9479 no problem mate, feel free to ask any questions if you need help🙂
Didntou have to get the engine at TDC before taking off the chain?
Not to confuse people but this is actually referred to as the cam chain.
Car is timing belt driven on the drivers side of the vehicle.
Good video though!
Thank you mate, yes you are right it definitely could be confused as the MK6 gti ccz engines are the chain driven ones, I'll change the title!
Thank you 😁
No dramas always happy to support a fellow veedubber
Hey! Any chance you can share with us the part number of that 3 rings set? I can't seem to find it...
Hey mate, thatnks for watching!! I'll do some digging and see if I can find them, its been a while haha, From memory, I believe you can only get them genuine from VW/Audi
Yep... for 50 bucks/ring ... I was wondering if there is any other option
Great vid mate very informative, just a quick one ,did you use genuine vw parts ? Thanks in advance
Thank you mate and thank yoi for watch, yes I did use vw genuine parts, its the only place you can get the carbon sealing rings
Where can I get the tools used? The one to hold the cams in place, the one to turn the intake cam, and the T40080.
Thanks for watching mate. All found on Ebay except for the poly drive, but I just googled that part and ordered it from one of the 1st tool shop links.
This is the link to the cam shaft lock kit.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/7Pcs-Engine-Camshaft-Alignment-Timing-Tool-Kit-Set-For-VW-Audi-2-0L-FSI-TFSI-/143331229845?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0
To search parts you can just type VW 2.0 FSI BWA engine, CDLC for the golf r and Audi s3.
Hope that helps mate
Can you please tell me what brand chain and tensioner you got?
Hey mate, from memory I'm pretty sure all these parts are genuine VW/Audi 🙂
could you tell me where you bought the carbon rings thanks
Thanks for watching mate.
We got them genuine from Volkswagen 🙂
You seem like you really know your stuff. How often should this service be done?
Thanks mate, and thank you for watching 😄, usually, we would replace only when necessary, symptoms like a chain rattle on 1st start up, (can sometimes be the adjuster) , inlet/exhaust cam shafts out of corralation fault codes, this problem would ussually occur roughly around 160k kms. You could probably do the jobs as preventative maintenance before hand around 135k km, with the service but this also all depends on car history, hows its driven and serviced
@@jack73ist Thanks heaps.
Hola donde se busca las juntas que quitas de la tapa en el minuto 35:17 del video tienes referencia?
Is this exactly the same as an cdl engine in the cupra,r20,s3 ?
Thanks for watching mate, yes they are, they run slightly different camshafts and the KO4 turbo standard but the chain side is the same as is the majority of the engine, still a favourite engine of mine too👌 well proven
My mechanic wanted almost 2g to do this plus possibly another $500 If they had any issues getting that cam sprocket bolt out.
Hey need help mine is really ticking loudly like a rod knock but it comes from what you removed and I started removing it and inside the casing there was scratch marks on the inside wall do you know what could be the problem not to sure if changing the chaîne and tensioner would help and I got the Stop ENGINE Oil pressure CEL, I removed the oil pan cleaned out the oil pickup, I checked the oil pressure switch everything is ok but since that CEL For Oil pressure came on it started doing that rattle coming from the cam shaft casing please I need help I don’t want to blow up my engine
Hey mate, thank you for watching. unfortunately to right off the bat, it sounds like you may potentially have an oil restriction somewhere causing a lack of lubrication, trying not to jump to any conclusions yet ofcourse, the scratches could be a symptom of another issue to do with the lubrication system, on a vw BWA engine, the oil pumps them selves seemed to be ok as far as my experience with them, I didnt see any failures besides one where the clearance between the suction gear for the pump ( not sure what they're called ) had a clearance to high amd wasn't able to draw oil efficiently.
I would definitely try not to run the engine to avoid any damage.
Pull the oil filter off and cut out the paper element being very careful not to cut yourself. Inspect for metal fragments
@@jack73ist hey man, thanks a lot for thé Quick reply so here’s what I’ve done so far since the STOP ENGINE OIL PRESURE light came on:
Dropped oil pan, cleaned it really nice like brand new
Removed the old oil pickup tube for a brand new one,
New oil switch sensor
New camshaft / HPFP bucket (with the 4 little holes 🤣 don’t know how to call it)
I removed the camshaft timing chain housing and saw nothing really wrong with it except for big scratches on the inside of the housing but once I removed the housing their was no oil in the cap like yours… if their was no oil pressure should it pop up at startup? Because right now at start up it never shows up I could let the car run on idle all day and it wouldn’t pop up so I’m really questioning what’s going on and what to look for cause I’m really lost and hoping to find a good answer to my problems…. Why would their be scratch marks on the inside of the housing ?????
And 2nd? - why is it making a ticking sound like really loud I will post a video on my Chanel in less than 15 minutes for you to actually see what I’m taking about thanks you
Just uploaded the video on my channel bro go check it out you’ll understand better
@@BoostedEk8 from the video, it actually sounds normal for this engine, but it is hard to tell through the phone, the injectors on these engine aswell as the high pressure fuel pump can tick pretty loudly..
Have you replaced your cam chain already? Ussually clear sign of stretched chain and worn tennsuoner is really.loud rattle on cold start, if the chain is strtched enough, it can throw a camshaft out of corralation fualt code and even evap emmsions control fault codes
@@BoostedEk8 from the video, it actually sounds normal for this engine, but it is hard to tell through the phone, the injectors on these engine aswell as the high pressure fuel pump can tick pretty loudly..
Have you replaced your cam chain already? Ussually clear sign of stretched chain and worn tennsuoner is really.loud rattle on cold start, if the chain is strtched enough, it can throw a camshaft out of corralation fualt code and even evap emmsions control fault codes, the scratch on the house are left there when the chain is loose enough to hit it, seen it on a few, she may be ok bro, but thats just from what I can hear in the video
You didn't count the links from the bronze one? Have to go by the 18/19 rule on the chain otherwise your timing will be out unless you got very very lucky
Thanks for the heads up mate, that's exactly what the elsawin manual states, it's another precaution to make sure you don't mess it up but the links are the same all way round, just helps you locate the adjuster onto the keyway. aslong as you turn the inlet cam when you lock the adjuster and the lobes line up the same on the cam cradle marks ( about half way travel along the lobe both high points facing inwards) your sweet, the cam lock should also slide effortlessly between the cams. I'm a europian vehicle mechanic and vdub and Audi specialist at the shop, have been lucky the last 20 chains haha, but in reality as you go, you figure out other ways to do things and what methods help what, helps make things more efficient, part of all the fun
@@jack73ist If you didn't count the links, why did you care with the colored chain in the video? The different color only helps counting the links between...
@@YOARTHFU don't worry about it too much mate, replied to your earlier comment 👍
@@jack73istI have no earlier comment, until now. I'm just make it more comprehensible for others, since it is common that people are very confused about the timing logic, then making unnecessary steps and timing marks all over the car.
@@YOARTHFU sorry mate, thought you were the other person to comment on the coloured chain link, Check the reply above yours to K2weapon. Just showed how I've been replacing these timing chains for years. As I stated in that reply afer a while you learn what method is to insure what and where you can make the job more efficient. Links are the same all the way round on the chain, it just helps you locate the keyway onto the adjuster. As long as the cam lobes match half way across the rise on the arrows on the cam shaft cradle you'll be fine.
Great content bro and a really nice tutorial. Is there any risk in driving with a loose chain?
Thanks bro, and thank you for watching! Yeah I would avoid driving it, the chain eventually stretches to the point it throws the intake and exhaust valve timing out of correlation and the engine will ether missfire, be down on power or have difficulty starting. They also tend to wear into the houseing. Definitely don't want the chance of skipping teeth too. After its all been replaced, you shouldnt have to worry about it again for another 10 or so years
What torx tool is that?
Poly drive bro
what number polydrive key is?
have you ever had to drill the adjuster bolt out?
Yeah mate, thanks for watching! I have had to drill 2 that I Remember, One on a mk6 golf R and One on an A4, had to remove the cam shaft from A4 as they have a North/ south engine configuration witch places the adjuster right against the fire wall haha.
If drilling out the bolt in a Golf, I rememoved the battary and used a Right angle drill, used a larger drill bit, as large as the polydrive pattern.. you only have to drill until the bolt head can be remmoved then is should wind it, it has a cone style bolt head for more surface area which is why they can be tricky to undo. Hope that helps
aye thanks man you seem like a hell of a technician, tackling this job this week gotta drill out this bolt and see how it goes! thanks allot
@@sMFq11 Just alot of experience one Audis and VW's haha wouldn't call my self a great technician yet haha I do appreciate the kind words though mate. As long as yountakenit slow and steady she'll be right.
If you have anymore questions or run into and hurdles, don't hesitate to ask 🙂
haha well you know a hell of allot more than alot of people out there that's forsure. I've been working in a euro shop for about 12 years now and well the old RUclips still gets me out of a bind every now and then so we out here in the repair world appreciate good repair content like this! thank you
@@jack73ist my boss was telling me I was using the. wrong socket lol typical old grouchy guy but they are definitely tight on there and this one just decided to strip out on me and ruin a Monday morning haha
Great video! One question. Do you have a part number for the solenoid rings? I have searched everywhere but can't find them. Probably not using the proper German description.
Thank you for watching ! And thank you mate 🙂
No I dont unfortunately, but I'm pretty certain you can only get them genuine from VW/Audi, you'll need 3 and they're the carbon sealing rings for the cam adjuster solanoid, that incerts into the cam adjuster itselfselves, they'll definitely have their own name for it but I've only ever described them to the parts guys here in Australia
@@jack73ist I noticed your description said oil control solenoid rings. That helped a lot. The part number I found was 06F198107A. Looks to be the right thing.
@@SCFlyingSquirrel SKP SKY01125 on Rock Auto. Or ÜRO PARTS 06F198107A They're over $100 from the dealers.
Have you notice, HPFP sensor is broken in middle on top? COMMON Issue... That's why after 2,nd NEW pump i bought protector ;x
Have you done 2l fsi non turbo timing
I can't remember off the top of my head mate, its been a while, I'm pretty sure majority is still the same though, and if they had failed, I would have done them. We had no shortage of these timing chain and tensioner issues though 😅
@@jack73ist should o count 18 to 19 links
are you sure the crankshaft bolt is a 19mm? if I go to ETKA it says the bolt is a hex M16-75
19mm socket mate, for the M16-75 bolt
@@jack73ist I recalled wrong, it's M16x54 (06A 105 229) but yes you're correct. In my head it was a hex bolt, but it's a triple square.
I had to crank it today for cam-chain change operation. But I didn't have that socket. I used a hex 21mm; by luck, it sort of fits enough to spin it.
But you're right, it should be a triple square 19mm socket, which should be what the M16 standard is I guess.
Now I'm stuck with the polydrive in the cam phaser. I can't untighten it, it's inhuman. I tried to torch it, no luck. I don't have a good quality, long breaker bar, they're too costly for a one time job. I use a stupid tire bolt bar, but no luck. Do you put glue on the polydrive bit to make it keep its seating? I think I'll try with an impact wrench but I have to buy or rent one.
how long did the job take?
Thanks for watching mate, took me about 3 to 4 hours to do on a Friday night, but best to take your time with it
That goldsfilter on tensioner is a nightmare, I had to change tensioner twice because of that 😮 just be really careful guys it's just piece of mental but guys it's a really nightmare 😳
Hello, i cannot remove the cam adjuster bolt. Its so frikkin tight, i already broke 4 tools. What do i have to do to get it loose?
Thanks for watching mate, yes they can be incredibly tight, the conical surface of the bolt heads has more surface area to lock the bolt in place, as long as the polydrive bolt isn't damaged yet, I get the largest bar I have and someone to help push the end of the bar onto the bolt with a pry bar to hold pressure, bolt is standard right hand thread meaning Lefty loose. If that fails you can drill the bolt out slowly, usually do this when the bolt head strip's, you only have to drill untill the cone haed is removed and you can easily unwind the bolt but this does mean you have to replace that polydrive bolt, have to get one from and Volkswagen/ Audi supplier.
Hope that helps mate
I need your help man, I’ve taken it apart twice now and triple check EVERYTHING and it still has a lumpy idle but drives fine. I’m located in Brisbane, reckon you could give me a hand?
Did the lumpy idle start after you replaced the chain mate? When the chain stretches or the tensioner is worn you usually just get a rattle on start up, or constant if really bad and will usually throw a cam shaft, crank shaft out of correlation fault code. A lumpy idle sounds like a vacuum leak to me, if only lumpy at idel, idel is when you will find the engine under the most vacuum so if you have a blown PSV, inlet manifold gasket, dip stick seal, Diverter valve for Example, it will draw in un-metered air causing the engine to hunt trying to correct itself using the O2 sensor
@@jack73ist yes it’s only idling poorly on idle. when I rev it, it’s fine and I look it for a spin and no loss of power it pulled normally. The chain made a slight rattle on start up but it went away instantly. It was idling smooth but when RPMS fell after cold start it started having a lumpy idle.
I think it’s not a timing issue because the idle changed back to normal for 20 seconds before returning to the lumpy idle again just before when I started it up.
Should have probably made it clear at the start but I’ve done the new chain and tensioner install and made sure everything is in time. Then all that started happening.
@@lukac3140 if you have a scanner handy you may find mixture lean fault codes, which would confirm a vacuum leak, is there any hissing you can hear around the engine? If you have any brake clean or carry cleaner you can spray some very short bursts around the engine to see if the idel picks up, that is where you may find the vacuum leak
20nm. I don't hear a clic. Is your wrench broken ?
Nah not broken mate, I dont think I used my torque wrench in this video? But there is a torque for every fastener, yes 🙂 .
thanks for watching mate
You said that the spec for that bolt is 20nm. why are you using the wrong key? why are you putting that bolt so tight?
I think you tightened that bolt to 150nm. you were almost to the point that the screw thread would break
@@AutosportMore you're making some big assumptions , you can find more information on ross teck wiki, and some other software, but I've just shown how I've carried out the job for years cheers mate 🙂 take it for what it is, find another video if you're not happy
Why didn't you remove the battery for more room?
Didnt feel the need to 🙂
Hard to watch you tightening the cam bolt, what about the poor bastard that has to remove it