@@CarCraftAutoDetailing hi Bro do you like more wash mitts or sponge like soft 99 or big red sponge lake country ? Im asking becoze in Europe Poland pro detailers recomend to use high quality sponge 🧽 are they realy better ? Thx for answer.
@lucasa6088 my personal preference is a good (there’s also not so good ones) microfibre wash mitt, I just find it removes dirt easier and faster while being safe.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks for answering m8, that's what I feel too. Gd wash mitts are better. I can send you a link to tests from mx nowicki do you want to see it ? Take care
Hey mate, long time no see ot hear, i hope that your business is going as you wish and that your Family and yourself are all well. Thank you posting this work and as we all know when it comes to paint correction Sandro is your man. Be well mate and thanks for sharing for all of us.
Many LSPs fail or don't last as long as they should because people don't undertake this process in advance of their application. A very helpful and informative video, Sandro. Cheers.
Another great lesson with simple clarification of all the details, thank you our teacher Sandro!))) Cheers from cold again Sweden (Tar-X is prepared for winter washes) )))
Brilliant Sandro. After all these years watching your videos, you still inspire me to try to do my detailing better. Thanks mate, really appreciate your work.
Fantastic video There might be more than one way to decontaminating paint but Sandros iis the right way The only way Every video you just drop bombs of info on use Just drop the mic boom more info keep them coming IN Sandro we Trust
Wow ! What a difference once again a fantastic video by the king of detailing! Thank you for this awesome video Sandro well done great achievement ! 👏🏻
Hi sandro, is it ok to use a clay towel without the tar removal step or is it gonna harm the towel? Also, I would like to thank you for all these amazing videos with so much knowledge sharing. The world needs more people like you.
Shampoo, clay towel, wax is fine. The iron-x is mainly used if your car is 3+ years old and you live in a climate that uses road salt in the winter (which causes those orange 'oxidation' spots you see on the lower half of the paint)
@georgedavis2443 appreciate the kind feedback mate and I haven’t personally seen any tar deposits attach to or harm any of my clay towels, having said that if I do see significant tar deposits I do firstly remove them with a tar remover.
That's one fancy bucket and bet that's a primo price for that. I wouldn't use it but maybe hang it as wall art. Lots of those chems look like some of my shampoo products, I'd be afraid to mix them up and get a scalp iron treatment may do me some good
Not speaking for Sandro, but I’d consider stopping at clay-barring. But these days, just about anything you do is technically going to scratch the coating/clearcoat. There are compounds that barely remove anything while adding incredible shine, but that is still ‘correction’. I recommend Griots Perfecting Cream with their yellow pad.
Alkaline pre wash- acid contact, iron and Tar remover- water spot remover as needed. If coating is still decent after that top it off with a top coat of sio2 sealant. If it's still a little rough CarPro Essence plus. Although I'd recommend by hand and as needed as I've had it diminish some coatings.
@coolwrld302 after the alkaline pre-soak and acid hand wash I’d add separate iron and water spot remover chemical treatments, if I saw tar deposits also a tar remover and skip the mechanical claying process. I did I decided video on that as well: ruclips.net/video/vWYyw-yKM3A/видео.htmlsi=evdfqsEg13YSPJGH
For me: -iron -alkaline foam -acid soak -light water spot hit -one that everyone misses and that’s clay towel Honestly the clay is gonna do some magic and restore the coating more then any product And just realize as Sandro said. No amount of washing or anything will prevent a coating from being clogged. And along the top these coatings don’t actually last that long in real world conditions. People have topper on topper on topper on them along with clogged pores in coating / what’s left of coating. I’d say aim for 2 year light polish and recoat. Next round would need a compound and polish. Most people don’t keep cars that long anyways so most people shouldn’t be stressing.
Sandro, do you have a video on just repairing a small light scratch, say 2cm long, rather then doing a whole panel. I’m not really sure if I can just do the small spot and whether it will stand out if the whole panel isn’t done. Car is 2 months old. Thank you.
I’m not sure I have a video specifically showing that but the process is really the same as correcting the whole panel - it’s typically a case of once you do correct an area that looks better, you tend to want to do the whole panel.
Absolutely love your channel, as it’s my favorite all-time detailing channel out there. I have an off-topic question, What do you prefer and why, CaRpro Reload 2.0, or Nova Jet?
Really nice to hear that, thanks. Personally I do lean more towards Nova Jet as it tends to last longer with better resistance to cleaning chemicals and has better hydrophobic behaviour. But Reload 2.0 is still a fantastic sealant, a little glossier and slicker.
Thanks and synthetic clay has definitely gotten much better in terms of being more thorough and less aggressive, but just like traditional clay there’s good and no so good examples of it around. I personally find synthetic clay almost lasts indefinitely if you take care of it, so very long life span.
Hi Sandro, I just started watching a couple of your videos. I want to help my 2020 x3 m40 paint. would this work to remove tiny orange red leaf stains from my bmw? My darn borough leaf collector spews dust and it landed on my car wet. The car is white and I foam washed it, and scrubbed it with the mesh side of the sponge but it doesnt come off without serious thumb force which is not possible to do for the whole car. I tried wetting and using clay bar, my clay bar doesn't take it off either. Would a cut polish take this off?
Typically I would try to firstly remove those deposits during a decontamination such as this. A good synthetic clay can usually lift more suborn particles than traditional clay and if you can use it with a chemical lubricant like Nv Purify it does tend to make that process more successful. Having said that sometimes some particles don’t cooperate! So yes, I would say that using light compounding/polishing abrasives should in fact remove those stains/particles if it’s not happening during the wash/decon process.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Great! Thank you so much, at least I'm on the right track. Now is polish the second part of paint correction or can that count instead of waxing or ceramic coating?
@two_inline_sixes compounding/polishing is all about removing defects prior to sealing/coating which all about protecting the finish: maybe this video will also help: ruclips.net/video/6tepA3wjPbY/видео.htmlsi=Xtkscw5PCd6CzU0L
I have a 6 month old white GTI that I’ve only been using tons of Turtle Wax Quick Wax on. I’m happy with the condition of the paint, but want to do a decontamination wash & use NV Luster on it. My question is: Do I need to use some sort of wax remover? Or is a really good, deep, wash good enough?
In most cases a great thorough decontamination wash process will break down existing waxes, but if you still see the water beading and the paint still feels slick you can use a wax and grease remover or even a APC/Degreaser to further break down and remove that wax.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you! More questions - lol. I’m going to use NV Luster and/or Boost. Should I use Luster & then Boost? Or just Boost? Can either or both be used on glass & plastics? I live on a dirt road so I wipe my car down 3 or 4 days a week. Do you have a suggestion on what would be best for constant quick wipe downs? Thank you sooooo much !!!!! You’re an absolutely wonderful communicator. It’s a true gift. Also, I’m a 60 year old female who has fallen in love with my car for the very first time. So I truly appreciate any & all advice.
That’s really nice to hear! I would tend to suggest the newer Boost V2 as it’s quicker and easy to apply as well as being more durable, and you can use it on paint, plastics and metal - though for glass I would tend to recommend Carpro Clarity Phobic as it’s simply better and less problematic than car paint sealants for glass. If you already have Lustre you can still absolutely use it as a base later for added gloss, and then top it with Boost V2 as often as you like.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you !!!! Last question, promise. I’m trying to get my nerve up to do a cleaning polish - like what you did for the white Mazda. What pad did you use? And whatever it was, should I use something even softer just because I’ve never done this before? No, I haven’t purchased yet. So I’ll just go with Boost V2.
Yes I’d recommend doing a very light polish if it’s your first time, and after that you can certainly step up to something slightly more aggressive once you get the hang of it. A great starting combination would be something like Nv Finesse Polish on the Shine Mate foam polishing pad ( www.waxit.com.au/products/shine-mate-black-diamond-orange-foam-universal-pad-4-6-7?ref=1NNwBEgP4yO4AX )- it will be extremely safe and remove next to no clear coat. Doing the whole car you should try and work with about 3 pads and keep rotating them after every few section throughout the process. Just note that the 7” pads are for a 6” backing plate and likewise the 6” pads are for a 5” backing plate. Hope that helps 🙂
Hi Sandro, love your work as always. Quick question about Carpro Dquarts Go which i've just applied... Have read around and noticed carpro state that it is slightly more vulnerable to water spots. Can it be topped with something like reload for extra help with fighting the water spotting/do you have and recommendations on what I could top Dquarts with? Hope to see some testing on channel soon. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and score some time off mate, cheers
Thanks mate and also wishing you a Merry Christmas. Honestly most of my testing has been with DQPRO and even then, I do tend to use it as a base layer and top it with CQPRO/Finest- so I would only be speculating here. But I would guess that once DQGO is fully cured (3-4wks later) there shouldn’t be any issues in applying Reload over it, maybe even after 24-48hrs you could use Release to protect it during those first few weeks.
Hey Sandro. Do you prefer a 15mm or 21mm for DA? Also, in regards to using sandpaper disks on a DA, what brand and or type would ypu recommend . I live in the US any suggestions?
I’ll use either a 21 or 15 depending on the vehicle, paint type and defects as there’s advantages and disadvantages of both but if you’re asking me to solely choose one - a good 15mm is the best compromise. I personally like Sia Abrasives sanding disks but 3M is also good and more widely available.
would of liked to have seen the panel as a whole, with a section you didn't polish, after you've done everything just to show what it looked like without decontamination, and without polishing.
Honey wake up, Sandro posted a new video!
😄
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing hi Bro do you like more wash mitts or sponge like soft 99 or big red sponge lake country ? Im asking becoze in Europe Poland pro detailers recomend to use high quality sponge 🧽 are they realy better ? Thx for answer.
@lucasa6088 my personal preference is a good (there’s also not so good ones) microfibre wash mitt, I just find it removes dirt easier and faster while being safe.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks for answering m8, that's what I feel too. Gd wash mitts are better. I can send you a link to tests from mx nowicki do you want to see it ? Take care
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingruclips.net/video/Ceu07-bT2jY/видео.htmlsi=rkdrRgYIxLz6eqvh
By far the best detailing page on RUclips...
Sandro is a mad scientist when it comes to detailing!
Hey mate, long time no see ot hear, i hope that your business is going as you wish and that your Family and yourself are all well.
Thank you posting this work and as we all know when it comes to paint correction Sandro is your man.
Be well mate and thanks for sharing for all of us.
Many LSPs fail or don't last as long as they should because people don't undertake this process in advance of their application. A very helpful and informative video, Sandro. Cheers.
Wow. Enlightening. Didn't realise how much improvement just cleaning could make.
By far and away the most informative detailing channel out there. Thanks so much for all the knowledge you share. Wishing you the best!
It's amazing how much gloss those particles were hiding.
Another great lesson with simple clarification of all the details, thank you our teacher Sandro!))) Cheers from cold again Sweden (Tar-X is prepared for winter washes) )))
Brilliant Sandro. After all these years watching your videos, you still inspire me to try to do my detailing better. Thanks mate, really appreciate your work.
Good job Sandro, very helpfull video !
Hey Sandro, another amazing video...Thanks!
It's awesome what a good wash and decon can make to a weathered paint before correction 🔥
Fantastic video There might be more than one way to decontaminating paint but Sandros iis the right way The only way Every video you just drop bombs of info on use Just drop the mic boom more info keep them coming IN Sandro we Trust
Great guide, Sandro. Keep it up.
Excellent video as usual Sandro!
Hello from Brisbane
Great video Sandro 😎
That 50/50 post-decon shot was WILD. Huge improvement.
Wow ! What a difference once again a fantastic video by the king of detailing! Thank you for this awesome video Sandro well done great achievement ! 👏🏻
Great Content as Usual!!
Hi sandro, is it ok to use a clay towel without the tar removal step or is it gonna harm the towel?
Also, I would like to thank you for all these amazing videos with so much knowledge sharing. The world needs more people like you.
Shampoo, clay towel, wax is fine. The iron-x is mainly used if your car is 3+ years old and you live in a climate that uses road salt in the winter (which causes those orange 'oxidation' spots you see on the lower half of the paint)
@@zenon3021new cars can come with iron fallout, pretty sure plain old water will cause rust.
@georgedavis2443 appreciate the kind feedback mate and I haven’t personally seen any tar deposits attach to or harm any of my clay towels, having said that if I do see significant tar deposits I do firstly remove them with a tar remover.
Pan the Organizer listed you as a channel to watch so just subscribed.
Great instructive video! thank you much for sharing
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the support!
Thank you for the great content! I will purchase the decontamination chemical through the link for sure!
That's one fancy bucket and bet that's a primo price for that. I wouldn't use it but maybe hang it as wall art. Lots of those chems look like some of my shampoo products, I'd be afraid to mix them up and get a scalp iron treatment may do me some good
So how would you change or adjust this process for say "exfoliating" a coated car where a paint correction isn't the ultimate goal?
Not speaking for Sandro, but I’d consider stopping at clay-barring. But these days, just about anything you do is technically going to scratch the coating/clearcoat. There are compounds that barely remove anything while adding incredible shine, but that is still ‘correction’.
I recommend Griots Perfecting Cream with their yellow pad.
Alkaline pre wash- acid contact, iron and Tar remover- water spot remover as needed. If coating is still decent after that top it off with a top coat of sio2 sealant. If it's still a little rough CarPro Essence plus. Although I'd recommend by hand and as needed as I've had it diminish some coatings.
@coolwrld302 after the alkaline pre-soak and acid hand wash I’d add separate iron and water spot remover chemical treatments, if I saw tar deposits also a tar remover and skip the mechanical claying process. I did I decided video on that as well: ruclips.net/video/vWYyw-yKM3A/видео.htmlsi=evdfqsEg13YSPJGH
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you sir will have to check that video out.
For me:
-iron
-alkaline foam
-acid soak
-light water spot hit
-one that everyone misses and that’s clay towel
Honestly the clay is gonna do some magic and restore the coating more then any product
And just realize as Sandro said. No amount of washing or anything will prevent a coating from being clogged. And along the top these coatings don’t actually last that long in real world conditions. People have topper on topper on topper on them along with clogged pores in coating / what’s left of coating.
I’d say aim for 2 year light polish and recoat. Next round would need a compound and polish. Most people don’t keep cars that long anyways so most people shouldn’t be stressing.
Thanks for the information 😊
Hilarious 80 grit sound of your gloved hand on the paint surface.
Sandro, do you have a video on just repairing a small light scratch, say 2cm long, rather then doing a whole panel. I’m not really sure if I can just do the small spot and whether it will stand out if the whole panel isn’t done. Car is 2 months old. Thank you.
I’m not sure I have a video specifically showing that but the process is really the same as correcting the whole panel - it’s typically a case of once you do correct an area that looks better, you tend to want to do the whole panel.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok, thanks so much for responding. That’s what my husband thought. I’ll get him onto it! 😆
You’re a great guy for sharing all this for free, thank you
Absolutely love your channel, as it’s my favorite all-time detailing channel out there.
I have an off-topic question,
What do you prefer and why, CaRpro Reload 2.0, or Nova Jet?
Really nice to hear that, thanks.
Personally I do lean more towards Nova Jet as it tends to last longer with better resistance to cleaning chemicals and has better hydrophobic behaviour. But Reload 2.0 is still a fantastic sealant, a little glossier and slicker.
There is no way you could wash and clean a panel...then not want to buff and polish it. My ocd thanks you for the bonus footage lol
🙂
This guy is cool
Have you seen the new Rupes?
Yes I’ve seen a video on showcasing it and will be very keen to try it!
Great video sandro is a clay towel just as good as the real thing and how often should you renew the cloth
Thanks and synthetic clay has definitely gotten much better in terms of being more thorough and less aggressive, but just like traditional clay there’s good and no so good examples of it around. I personally find synthetic clay almost lasts indefinitely if you take care of it, so very long life span.
Great video
Nice explanation!
Hello, I have a question, my eraser fell and everything ran out.. I don't have access to eraser, is it okay to use a silicon remover?thanks!
I’ve never used a silicone remover for this process so I’m not sure
What do you think traditional clay bar vs clay mitt (not perforated)
Hi Sandro, I just started watching a couple of your videos. I want to help my 2020 x3 m40 paint. would this work to remove tiny orange red leaf stains from my bmw? My darn borough leaf collector spews dust and it landed on my car wet. The car is white and I foam washed it, and scrubbed it with the mesh side of the sponge but it doesnt come off without serious thumb force which is not possible to do for the whole car. I tried wetting and using clay bar, my clay bar doesn't take it off either. Would a cut polish take this off?
Typically I would try to firstly remove those deposits during a decontamination such as this. A good synthetic clay can usually lift more suborn particles than traditional clay and if you can use it with a chemical lubricant like Nv Purify it does tend to make that process more successful. Having said that sometimes some particles don’t cooperate! So yes, I would say that using light compounding/polishing abrasives should in fact remove those stains/particles if it’s not happening during the wash/decon process.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Great! Thank you so much, at least I'm on the right track. Now is polish the second part of paint correction or can that count instead of waxing or ceramic coating?
@two_inline_sixes compounding/polishing is all about removing defects prior to sealing/coating which all about protecting the finish: maybe this video will also help: ruclips.net/video/6tepA3wjPbY/видео.htmlsi=Xtkscw5PCd6CzU0L
I have a 6 month old white GTI that I’ve only been using tons of Turtle Wax Quick Wax on.
I’m happy with the condition of the paint, but want to do a decontamination wash & use NV Luster on it.
My question is: Do I need to use some sort of wax remover? Or is a really good, deep, wash good enough?
In most cases a great thorough decontamination wash process will break down existing waxes, but if you still see the water beading and the paint still feels slick you can use a wax and grease remover or even a APC/Degreaser to further break down and remove that wax.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing
Thank you! More questions - lol. I’m going to use NV Luster and/or Boost. Should I use Luster & then Boost? Or just Boost? Can either or both be used on glass & plastics?
I live on a dirt road so I wipe my car down 3 or 4 days a week. Do you have a suggestion on what would be best for constant quick wipe downs?
Thank you sooooo much !!!!! You’re an absolutely wonderful communicator. It’s a true gift.
Also, I’m a 60 year old female who has fallen in love with my car for the very first time. So I truly appreciate any & all advice.
That’s really nice to hear! I would tend to suggest the newer Boost V2 as it’s quicker and easy to apply as well as being more durable, and you can use it on paint, plastics and metal - though for glass I would tend to recommend Carpro Clarity Phobic as it’s simply better and less problematic than car paint sealants for glass. If you already have Lustre you can still absolutely use it as a base later for added gloss, and then top it with Boost V2 as often as you like.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing
Thank you !!!! Last question, promise.
I’m trying to get my nerve up to do a cleaning polish - like what you did for the white Mazda. What pad did you use? And whatever it was, should I use something even softer just because I’ve never done this before?
No, I haven’t purchased yet. So I’ll just go with Boost V2.
Yes I’d recommend doing a very light polish if it’s your first time, and after that you can certainly step up to something slightly more aggressive once you get the hang of it.
A great starting combination would be something like Nv Finesse Polish on the Shine Mate foam polishing pad
( www.waxit.com.au/products/shine-mate-black-diamond-orange-foam-universal-pad-4-6-7?ref=1NNwBEgP4yO4AX )-
it will be extremely safe and remove next to no clear coat. Doing the whole car you should try and work with about 3 pads and keep rotating them after every few section throughout the process. Just note that the 7” pads are for a 6” backing plate and likewise the 6” pads are for a 5” backing plate. Hope that helps 🙂
Hi Sandro, love your work as always. Quick question about Carpro Dquarts Go which i've just applied... Have read around and noticed carpro state that it is slightly more vulnerable to water spots. Can it be topped with something like reload for extra help with fighting the water spotting/do you have and recommendations on what I could top Dquarts with? Hope to see some testing on channel soon. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and score some time off mate, cheers
Thanks mate and also wishing you a Merry Christmas.
Honestly most of my testing has been with DQPRO and even then, I do tend to use it as a base layer and top it with CQPRO/Finest- so I would only be speculating here. But I would guess that once DQGO is fully cured (3-4wks later) there shouldn’t be any issues in applying Reload over it, maybe even after 24-48hrs you could use Release to protect it during those first few weeks.
Hey Sandro. Do you prefer a 15mm or 21mm for DA? Also, in regards to using sandpaper disks on a DA, what brand and or type would ypu recommend . I live in the US any suggestions?
I’ll use either a 21 or 15 depending on the vehicle, paint type and defects as there’s advantages and disadvantages of both but if you’re asking me to solely choose one - a good 15mm is the best compromise. I personally like Sia Abrasives sanding disks but 3M is also good and more widely available.
would of liked to have seen the panel as a whole, with a section you didn't polish, after you've done everything just to show what it looked like without decontamination, and without polishing.
I would have loved you to polish
Did you watch the extra bonus footage at the end 🙂