Thank you for this video! I’ve been shooting is sports mode for my sports photography for the last 6 years lol. I’m a Momtographer, so it wasn’t really that important. I wanted to move to Manual but no one really says what to try for the settings and I didn’t want to mess around with it. Lol, I also have a Nikon so I love a video that has my icons haha.
Great video !! I appreciate all your suggestions. Thank you. I use a Z9 with a Nikon 300 2.8, 400 2.8, 600mm 4.0 and now the new 180-600mm 5.6-5.3 Your videos are EXCELLENT !!
Jack, Great stuff. I shoot Z8 youth baseball in jpeg+raw and edit only the jpeg files with ACDsee (a super fast organizer for import, culling, tagging and simple edits) and open a raw in DXO PL7 for the few special captures or if exposure went bad. I find the Lightroom import / workflow / export painfully slow. My audience (parents) don't pixel peep and can't tell the difference. I delete the raw files at the end of the project, unless it was something really special. I sometimes miss the D500, but keep it in the bag as a backup with a 10-20mm attached for the dugout funshots.
Thanks for another. well organized, video tackling this subject,Jack. Let me ask you what might be a silly two-part technical question: When shooting ice hockey, I've found that I can set the shutter speed at 1/1250th of a second to stop action, but simultaneously show the motion of the puck (as an example). If shooting at f2, that will put my ISO (on Auto-ISO) typically in the 2000 neighborhood etc. It rarely varies much from that because the indoor lighting is uniformly bad. Given that ISO 2000 is 2 stops above the dual gain 500 point on the Z9 - and ISO 4000 is 3 stops above it, and post processing can safely be brightened 2 to 3 stops without image break down, I've am currently experimenting with setting my ISO at 500, change the viewing mode of my EVF to "Ease of viewing" instead of "effect of settings", and bringing up the image brightness in post. The possible advantage, of course, is the increased dynamic range, and less change of clipping highlights without the penalty of change in noise (shooting in RAW). The disadvantage, of course, is that it's difficult to know if all your settings are producing the results you want in camera. So lately, I take some test shots with my ss/aperture set, auto-ISO, and confirm it's working as I want. Then shoot with ISO set at 500. The environments you shoot in are no doubt, much different. Is this something you would ever consider? if lighting were constant? or does your ISO typically vary too much - or you just would rater see the shots appropriately brightened on the LCD? EC (exposure compensation), when auto-ISO is the only automatic mode is a bit of an oxymoron, yes? One last one (which is much easier). When you are demosaicing your image in DxO, I take it you are using sRGB color space, not Adobe or Prophoto RGB. When you are hired to produce these shots, ever use Adobe RGB for printing? Monitor calibration, etc?
I know the Z9 is ISO invariant with dual gain points and I have found that pushing images in post over multiple stops is possible (to a point). I have done it before when I was presented with some absolutely horrific lighting conditions (spot lighted wrestling). However, I have not tested it to the level you describe - shooting at 500 or 4000 and then pushing multiple stops. I'd be curious if it makes a significant difference from just shooting at the metered ISO. I would imagine there's a RUclips video out there somewhere testing that capability. If I did try it, it would likely have to be an indoor gym with relatively even lighting. Nighttime football fields would have far too much variation in light levels, I would think. As far as sRGB, that's all I use and I have never had a customer ask for anything different so I haven't had a motivation to use those other color space options.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thanks for your answer. I'll get back to you when I have enough "results" that I can be sure of. As for a video on RUclips - not sure - but I've seen photos done with this technique of Photography Life (usually landscapes) or Petapixel - and perhaps with Jim Kesson. I figured the football lighting would not be conducive to it. The hockey arena is evenly poor. Thanks for the heads up on color space.
Thanks! But, it's a slow build for sure. My goal is to catch Rob Samples, who appears to be the biggest sports photography-specific channel out there. He's been doing it a lot longer than me (nine years compared to my three) and has about triple the number of posted vids. Will vlog-style videos at games help? I don't know, but I plan to do a few this fall season and see what happens. I could also do more general photography vids too, I suppose.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Heck, my first video was about six years ago and I am so far behind both of you, I have almost given up;. I may need to take classes from both of you on how to grow an audience. 🙂
@@sportsphototv You'll get there. Believe me, there have been times I thought about giving it up. I've come to the conclusion that my primary viewers are parents who want to take better photos of their kids playing sports. To a lesser extent, it's newer photogs who are looking to start making money at it. So, the "how to" videos talking about the basics have always done the best for me (except for shooting video - not much joy there). Any time I diverge from that format, I get mediocre views. Also, if it's sport-specific at the start of that sport's season, that works too.
On jpeg vs raw, not everyone has the time to edit their images. I frequently have to deliver thousands of images (either by memory card or by upload) to get them online and available for purchase quickly on the day of event. Different companies will have different file requirements. Not that this applies to everyone, but worth a mention in the R vs J discussion.
Right, I have a similar client. I didn't get into that here for time and because this was directed toward newer photographers. I have a "RAW vs JPEG" video where I go into this extensively.
Informative video! Have the Sony a9iii which eliminates the worry about rolling shutter. Also, do not use bbf since the AF and tracking is so good, just not need to use it
Yes, I have the Z9 and Z8 and have never experienced rolling shutter on them. Even though the face and eye tracking is very good on both, I still like to use the BBF. Maybe it's just now my habit.
Thoughts on Compressed Raw vs Standard Raw? I've moved to compressed raw for the saving space in file size. I haven't seen any quality change. Seems like all the benefits of raw with sizes closer to jpg.
@@joesalerno3966 I don’t respond personally to everything I’m sent - it’s too much. I am working on the photo review video which should be out later this week.
The thing I am struggling with shooting raw, is the sorting of photos. Putting them all in to the post editing programs is much slower than sorting them first in the computer and then put them in to post…
I shoot in full jpeg because your shooting so many images and it's not worth shooting in FULL RAW with huge files, if you have a camera made from 2019-2024 your images will be fine unless your selling your images then maybe I'd shoot RAW but buffer fills faster. I shoot with a pair of Sony A9ii and only shoot full jpeg and never had a problem with edit resolution plus we have great programs that can enhance photos if needed (Topaz Photo Ai).
Great video, super helpful, watched a few of your videos on the bounce and they’re all great. Wish you all the luck with the channel you deserve it.
@@pyrobiyt1577 thank you!
Great timing - high school volleyball starts today and I like quick reminders to put me back in the mental frame to shoot. Thank you!
Volleyball is a hard sport to shoot. I miss it since my daughter has graduated from high school and club. Good luck!
Thank you for this video! I’ve been shooting is sports mode for my sports photography for the last 6 years lol. I’m a Momtographer, so it wasn’t really that important.
I wanted to move to Manual but no one really says what to try for the settings and I didn’t want to mess around with it. Lol, I also have a Nikon so I love a video that has my icons haha.
Great video !! I appreciate all your suggestions. Thank you. I use a Z9 with a Nikon 300 2.8, 400 2.8, 600mm 4.0 and now the new 180-600mm 5.6-5.3 Your videos are EXCELLENT !!
@@scoopnewsworthy thank you!
Great video, Jack! I’m waiting on the photo review video. I sent mine in a while ago! 😊
Thanks for the pointers. I'm new to the D500 for youth sports coming from a D5600
Congratulations.. D500 is a huge step up! I have two myself. Have fun out there!
Jack, Great stuff. I shoot Z8 youth baseball in jpeg+raw and edit only the jpeg files with ACDsee (a super fast organizer for import, culling, tagging and simple edits) and open a raw in DXO PL7 for the few special captures or if exposure went bad. I find the Lightroom import / workflow / export painfully slow. My audience (parents) don't pixel peep and can't tell the difference. I delete the raw files at the end of the project, unless it was something really special. I sometimes miss the D500, but keep it in the bag as a backup with a 10-20mm attached for the dugout funshots.
Great video! Thank you so much!!
Thanks for another. well organized, video tackling this subject,Jack. Let me ask you what might be a silly two-part technical question: When shooting ice hockey, I've found that I can set the shutter speed at 1/1250th of a second to stop action, but simultaneously show the motion of the puck (as an example). If shooting at f2, that will put my ISO (on Auto-ISO) typically in the 2000 neighborhood etc. It rarely varies much from that because the indoor lighting is uniformly bad. Given that ISO 2000 is 2 stops above the dual gain 500 point on the Z9 - and ISO 4000 is 3 stops above it, and post processing can safely be brightened 2 to 3 stops without image break down, I've am currently experimenting with setting my ISO at 500, change the viewing mode of my EVF to "Ease of viewing" instead of "effect of settings", and bringing up the image brightness in post. The possible advantage, of course, is the increased dynamic range, and less change of clipping highlights without the penalty of change in noise (shooting in RAW). The disadvantage, of course, is that it's difficult to know if all your settings are producing the results you want in camera. So lately, I take some test shots with my ss/aperture set, auto-ISO, and confirm it's working as I want. Then shoot with ISO set at 500. The environments you shoot in are no doubt, much different. Is this something you would ever consider? if lighting were constant? or does your ISO typically vary too much - or you just would rater see the shots appropriately brightened on the LCD? EC (exposure compensation), when auto-ISO is the only automatic mode is a bit of an oxymoron, yes? One last one (which is much easier). When you are demosaicing your image in DxO, I take it you are using sRGB color space, not Adobe or Prophoto RGB. When you are hired to produce these shots, ever use Adobe RGB for printing? Monitor calibration, etc?
I know the Z9 is ISO invariant with dual gain points and I have found that pushing images in post over multiple stops is possible (to a point). I have done it before when I was presented with some absolutely horrific lighting conditions (spot lighted wrestling). However, I have not tested it to the level you describe - shooting at 500 or 4000 and then pushing multiple stops. I'd be curious if it makes a significant difference from just shooting at the metered ISO. I would imagine there's a RUclips video out there somewhere testing that capability. If I did try it, it would likely have to be an indoor gym with relatively even lighting. Nighttime football fields would have far too much variation in light levels, I would think. As far as sRGB, that's all I use and I have never had a customer ask for anything different so I haven't had a motivation to use those other color space options.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thanks for your answer. I'll get back to you when I have enough "results" that I can be sure of. As for a video on RUclips - not sure - but I've seen photos done with this technique of Photography Life (usually landscapes) or Petapixel - and perhaps with Jim Kesson. I figured the football lighting would not be conducive to it. The hockey arena is evenly poor. Thanks for the heads up on color space.
Stopping by and leaving a comment so YT sees you have engagement. ha ha
@@sportsphototv Thanks, I need all the help I can get!
@@JackBeasleyMedia Are you kidding? You are crushing it.
Thanks! But, it's a slow build for sure. My goal is to catch Rob Samples, who appears to be the biggest sports photography-specific channel out there. He's been doing it a lot longer than me (nine years compared to my three) and has about triple the number of posted vids. Will vlog-style videos at games help? I don't know, but I plan to do a few this fall season and see what happens. I could also do more general photography vids too, I suppose.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Heck, my first video was about six years ago and I am so far behind both of you, I have almost given up;. I may need to take classes from both of you on how to grow an audience. 🙂
@@sportsphototv You'll get there. Believe me, there have been times I thought about giving it up. I've come to the conclusion that my primary viewers are parents who want to take better photos of their kids playing sports. To a lesser extent, it's newer photogs who are looking to start making money at it. So, the "how to" videos talking about the basics have always done the best for me (except for shooting video - not much joy there). Any time I diverge from that format, I get mediocre views. Also, if it's sport-specific at the start of that sport's season, that works too.
On jpeg vs raw, not everyone has the time to edit their images. I frequently have to deliver thousands of images (either by memory card or by upload) to get them online and available for purchase quickly on the day of event. Different companies will have different file requirements. Not that this applies to everyone, but worth a mention in the R vs J discussion.
Right, I have a similar client. I didn't get into that here for time and because this was directed toward newer photographers. I have a "RAW vs JPEG" video where I go into this extensively.
Informative video! Have the Sony a9iii which eliminates the worry about rolling shutter. Also, do not use bbf since the AF and tracking is so good, just not need to use it
Yes, I have the Z9 and Z8 and have never experienced rolling shutter on them. Even though the face and eye tracking is very good on both, I still like to use the BBF. Maybe it's just now my habit.
I no longer use BBF either due to the great tracking my Sony a7iv has.
Great video, I’m a new photographer with a Sony A74. Trying to figure out how to photograph sports. Thank you
The sony a7iv is a great hybrid camera for sports. I use it for stills and video.
This was very good
@@ath3263 thanks!
Have to remind myself to send you my baseball photos
❤ l love the video
Thoughts on Compressed Raw vs Standard Raw? I've moved to compressed raw for the saving space in file size. I haven't seen any quality change. Seems like all the benefits of raw with sizes closer to jpg.
@@blkscorpion01 You mean in Nikon cameras? I use the compressed RAW all the time and I can’t tell the difference
Jack do you give a response when photos are received by you?
@@joesalerno3966 I don’t respond personally to everything I’m sent - it’s too much. I am working on the photo review video which should be out later this week.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thank you Jack. You are my amateur sports photography guru
The thing I am struggling with shooting raw, is the sorting of photos. Putting them all in to the post editing programs is much
slower than sorting them first in the computer and then put them in to post…
I shoot in full jpeg because your shooting so many images and it's not worth shooting in FULL RAW with huge files, if you have a camera made from 2019-2024 your images will be fine unless your selling your images then maybe I'd shoot RAW but buffer fills faster. I shoot with a pair of Sony A9ii and only shoot full jpeg and never had a problem with edit resolution plus we have great programs that can enhance photos if needed (Topaz Photo Ai).