Auto ISO is easily managed by adjusting shutter speed and aperture. Professionals and amateurs who know how to manage it easily do so....auto ISO is a great feature for action shots on moving subjects where lighting changes. It is like anything......golf, skiing, biking........until you get really good most people cannot outperform their equipment, but once your skill level increases your gear functionality will become much more appreciated. Auto ISO allows some pictures to be taken that before, even professionals could not accomplish or adapt to quickly enough.
I have never used auto ISO. However, this is an interesting topic because people who started photography on film are not frightened of high ISOs, but those who began photography in the digital age are fearful of high ISOs because they were taught that even a small amount of grain can destroy an image, which is untrue as long as the work is consistent because some of the best photographs ever taken include a hint of grain. Because when we look at magazine photo spreads such as GQ, Esquire, Time, Sports Illustrated, or others, you will always notice the hint of grain, which in some cases might work in your favor, especially with skin, because depending on the lighting it prevents the subject from looking like they belong in the wax museum. LOL
@@RMagnussen I'm shooting full frame and digital medium format; I occasionally use the smaller sensors since they provide reach and eliminate the need for bulky lenses.
@@albertjimenez7896 ok, but what are you shooting. Me to dont use auto ISO on my portrait work. But when i shoot sport it´s always on auto ISO because the seen changes so fast that i dont have time to metering the light.
I use auto ISO about half the time and all manual the other half, depends on what I'm shooting, and how rapidly the light is changing. One thing that I do a lot when using auto iso is use the exposure compensation as a type of "over ride". If in manual mode the aperture and shutter speed are locked and the auto is floating ISO then adding a little +EV will bump the ISO up (brighter image) as long as it hasn't hit the max. Conversely, using a little -EV will lower the ISO (darker image). If it is really tricky light, I forego the auto ISO altogether and use manual and spin wheels for ISO instead of spinning wheels for EV. I learned how to shot on film. Basically, this is the same method I used on Film cameras to "override" the film's ISO and the internal meter. Instead of EV, my camera (Nikon FE2 and F3) I would add to or remove from the ISO number on the ISO dial. Same basic thing.
What about the point of view that says-if you shoot RAW and develop in post the photographer is, at the end of the day, choosing the exposure even if they used auto iso. In that case auto iso could be thought of as an exposure approximation that the camera chooses in the field, which the photographer will finalize in post based on their preferences. I.e., the camera is not choosing the final exposure; the photographer is. As long as the photographer does not allow the camera to blow out the highlights by using exposure compensation, this way of using auto iso seems appropriate to all skill levels. Thoughts?
This is why photographers with a background of shooting film understand ISO better. We had to work around using one film speed. All you have to do is apply the film mindset to shooting digitally. Sunny day 200, cloudy day 400, low light 3200 etc.
@@teleaddict23 true but with film, you had a lot of latitude with highlights not so much with shadows. It all depended on the film stock. You are correct there is no shortcut for lining this the right way.
Recently I've started to use Auto-ISO with Highlight protection metering and -1EV for seagulls and other white stuff. Works quite well, but if conditions are less chaotic I always choose manual ISO.
I used a program mode (aperture or shutter) for many years. When I decided to put the camera in manual+manual ISO it really didn't' take me too long to get the hang of it and get the proper exposure. Maybe 2-3 months? Yes, I missed some shots during that time but it was definitely worth it. There is certainly a consistency in my images, and a unique "look", that was missing when I shot auto iso or one of the program modes. Manual modes and shooting in kelvin instead of auto white balance, combined, gave me full creative control over the final image SOOC which I much prefer. Especially because I really, really, hate taking the time to process raw; as a result I always intend to get the "correct" image SOOC. I whole heartedly agree with the benefits of shooting fully manual and also very much recommend it.
When I shot outdoors i tend to out -1 stop exposure compensation when i deal with lots of white. Usually the camera does a good job but when i see it too dark or the whites flashing black, i put it in manually. Latelly been shooting in dark clubs, auto iso or dial it in and balance with flash. It depends on the situation and the level of which you need consistency from one pic to the other.
I use auto iso in video mode when I'm moving around with slow movements from dark areas to bright areas at events. In photo mode I change it to keep my exposure meter in the middle at events as well.
I only ever use Auto ISO when I'm doing street or candid photography as I'd rather have a bit of grain than miss the moment. All other times I like to be in control as it's me I blame when I look at a rubbish photo I've taken.
How about using Aperture Priority when doing street photography and portraits outdoors where you are moving around a lot? Would using Aperture priority be better? I know how to shoot in Manual but when you do street photography, it is hard to be changing the settings in manual so I started using auto-ISO like a year ago but then recently, I watched a few "professional" RUclipsrs mention that Aperture Priority is better, could you please give me your take on this? Thanks.
@@felm.974 sure you can do that the reason why aperture priority became famous along with cameras, like the canon AE1 in the day it’s because folks did not want to learn exposure. Yes, you can use aperture priority, but you need to understand and keep a very close eye on your shutter speed as well when doing streak photography.
@@camerasutra247 Thank you. Yeah, that's one thing I noticed, I would have to watch my shutter speed very closely, but I think that at least with this method, things will be a lot more consistent... (still testing it, the worst part is when the shutter speed gets too slow and having to raise my ISO quickly... let's see how things go) ... I wonder if using the Exposure compensation helpful...? ... Still testing things out..
@ yes your bokeh be more consistent for sure. There’s no right or wrong answer if you understand exposure, you can shoot any genre and produce amazing results.
@@camerasutra247 Oh, I didn't know AP made your bokeh more consistent, that's crazy, good to know, thanks man, but yeah, instead of auto ISO I think AP is the way to go for street photography of you are are moving around and the lighting conditions change a lot, but if you are not moving and have time to capture what you want to capture, manual is the best mode.
As a part-time professional photographer and what I mean is I'd still have a day job I never ever use auto ISO the only time I think I use it is when I'm in a very very dark scene and it's gonna be blowing out anyway and then I use the noise to fix it up, but even the noise software has some limitations with softening images but sometimes you just have to get the shot but I'm not a fan of giving the control over to the AI of the camera. I just find that it chooses ISO way higher than it needs to be and I then go okay well I'm just gonna learn how to work this. I know the shutter speed that I need.
Not to mention using full manual has gotten a lot easier on mirrorless cameras because of exposure preview and having a histogram right there in real-time. I don't have a problem with the priority modes if you know what you're doing and are paying close attention. HOWEVER, I would advise against auto iso on a camera that doesn't show ISO in real time, like the Nikon D3500.
What a ridiculous video - I'm a wildlife photographer and regularly shoot those eagles you mention. I use the latest mirrorless gear as well as classic DSLRs like the 1Di and 5Di. If a camera has the option, ISO is always set to auto and the shutter speed is varied according to the amount of motion. The only thing I see sabotaging amateur wildlife photographer's shots are blurry pics taken with too low SS in order to keep the ISO to "acceptable" levels. I have shots taken at 51200 and 102k ISO that are absolutely perfect quality because they are properly exposed.
@ absolutely become a member and learn but I am sure that is not on your things to do either. Thanks for the comment. I guess the printed photo was not proof enough. Good luck
I always find auto ISO pics a too high ISO. So I shoot everything on manual since I can go from 1/60 to 1/2000 and f1.2 to 11 etc. Sometimes I set the ISO 3200 a whole evening and play with the other settings.
I think your exposure settings for this video were very good but I think your face looked a tad dark. Maybe a bump of 1/3 stop would have been a bit better. Maybe it’s just personal preference so not a big deal. I do agree with most of what you’ve said in this video but I slightly disagree as to why there weren’t as many noise reduction software 10 years ago. One reason is that only more recently have the advancements in noise reduction reached the point where they actually benefit a noisy image and not do more harm than good. So now we’re seeing many more that work really. well and can therefore sell well. I don’t think more companies put out noise reduction software to mostly accommodate people who don’t know what they’re doing and produce noisy images, although that may be part of it. Many times it’s just not possible to shoot at lower ISO and that’s true of even the pros and often it is better to get a noisier shot than no shot or a blurry one. So, I think companies stepped up to address this and gave the many pro and serious enthusiast photographers a solution to this problem knowing that if they got excellent results their product would sell extremely well.
Yes is the answer to your title, at least partially. Unnecessarily high ISO can also introduce unnecessary noise. Work out what shutter speed and aperture you need to get maximum light first, given the circumstances i.e. amount of movement in the shot. I've done street photography in low light so I was forced to get used to maximising settings for least noise.
@@camerasutra247 My opinion about auto settings in general is that they come nowhere near being as good as your own judgement about what is needed as long as you have learnt how to set things. The exception to this is when you need to work very fast to get shots in changing conditions. Then the speed of the auto will trump your speed for simply getting acceptable shots be it with less than ideal settings.
A big cause of this lack of knowledge about these things with people in general comes from smart phones in my opinion. These devices obviously use lots of clever auto tech to maximise shots and clean things up. The shots can look great on a small screen but go somewhere with a dedicated camera manually set then compare those to similar auto smart phone shots on a large high res screen. The smart phone shots will fall drastically short but a lot of people never actually view photos like this.
@ the problem is most people are translating, their smart phone habits to a professional machine which they have spent so much money on hence so much content out there that is not even worth looking at.
@@camerasutra247 When it comes to movement in the shot. This is totally a decision that you have to make without auto functions. You might want to freeze movement or create blur. To be a good photographer you need to look at the scene and judge exactly what shutter speed you need. I went through a phase of creating deliberate blur in street photos. I eventually knew the speed of people's movement and how slow the shutter speed needed to be to get a specific blur effect. For example how long their feet were stationary on the ground so that I got stationary feet and blurred everything else. This is the art of photography.
Another great video . One downfall to me is AI and products that fix corrections that the photographer should have corrected before they shot the picture . So many don't want to take the time to do it right or lack the knowledge . We shoot a lot of drag racing and I see so many so called pros shooting in auto and the pictures are poor . Don't rely on fix programs for poor skills .
I despise auto ISO - Like many beginners (I'm just 3-years in) I bought into the shooting mode of manual + Auto iso for the very reason you mentioned - the so called RUclips experts pushed it as the go to setting to get those photo's I was fawning over that I would see on social media! - While it can and does work (sometimes) but, once you understand things like the exposure triangle, Histogram how it works and what it's telling you and the ettr method and that scene and subjects' matter for the right exposure a person will end up with way more keepers and more consistent results.
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ISO 2500 and 640 not 1/2500 sec sorry mis-spoke on the video. Meant to say ISO.
Yeah, I was better confused, thanks for clarifying.
@ sorry about that
@@camerasutra247 No problem.
I use it with exposure compensation ,linked to my R5 rear wheel. You have to check your aperture non-stop, to keep ISO low
Good tip, thanks for sharing!
Auto ISO is easily managed by adjusting shutter speed and aperture. Professionals and amateurs who know how to manage it easily do so....auto ISO is a great feature for action shots on moving subjects where lighting changes. It is like anything......golf, skiing, biking........until you get really good most people cannot outperform their equipment, but once your skill level increases your gear functionality will become much more appreciated. Auto ISO allows some pictures to be taken that before, even professionals could not accomplish or adapt to quickly enough.
Agreed but first you should learn how to expose to know if your camera is even doing the right thing or not. You are correct.
I have never used auto ISO. However, this is an interesting topic because people who started photography on film are not frightened of high ISOs, but those who began photography in the digital age are fearful of high ISOs because they were taught that even a small amount of grain can destroy an image, which is untrue as long as the work is consistent because some of the best photographs ever taken include a hint of grain. Because when we look at magazine photo spreads such as GQ, Esquire, Time, Sports Illustrated, or others, you will always notice the hint of grain, which in some cases might work in your favor, especially with skin, because depending on the lighting it prevents the subject from looking like they belong in the wax museum. LOL
You got it, my friend there is no substitute for real experience. You surely have it appreciate you.
@@camerasutra247 Thank you.👍
never used auto ISO, what are you shooting?
@@RMagnussen I'm shooting full frame and digital medium format; I occasionally use the smaller sensors since they provide reach and eliminate the need for bulky lenses.
@@albertjimenez7896 ok, but what are you shooting. Me to dont use auto ISO on my portrait work. But when i shoot sport it´s always on auto ISO because the seen changes so fast that i dont have time to metering the light.
I use auto ISO about half the time and all manual the other half, depends on what I'm shooting, and how rapidly the light is changing. One thing that I do a lot when using auto iso is use the exposure compensation as a type of "over ride". If in manual mode the aperture and shutter speed are locked and the auto is floating ISO then adding a little +EV will bump the ISO up (brighter image) as long as it hasn't hit the max. Conversely, using a little -EV will lower the ISO (darker image). If it is really tricky light, I forego the auto ISO altogether and use manual and spin wheels for ISO instead of spinning wheels for EV. I learned how to shot on film. Basically, this is the same method I used on Film cameras to "override" the film's ISO and the internal meter. Instead of EV, my camera (Nikon FE2 and F3) I would add to or remove from the ISO number on the ISO dial. Same basic thing.
👍
What about the point of view that says-if you shoot RAW and develop in post the photographer is, at the end of the day, choosing the exposure even if they used auto iso. In that case auto iso could be thought of as an exposure approximation that the camera chooses in the field, which the photographer will finalize in post based on their preferences. I.e., the camera is not choosing the final exposure; the photographer is. As long as the photographer does not allow the camera to blow out the highlights by using exposure compensation, this way of using auto iso seems appropriate to all skill levels. Thoughts?
Shoot raw fix later is even worse and images full of noise and issues. If you do not expose it right the raw file has the issues baked in.
This is why photographers with a background of shooting film understand ISO better. We had to work around using one film speed. All you have to do is apply the film mindset to shooting digitally. Sunny day 200, cloudy day 400, low light 3200 etc.
@@teleaddict23 true but with film, you had a lot of latitude with highlights not so much with shadows. It all depended on the film stock. You are correct there is no shortcut for lining this the right way.
Recently I've started to use Auto-ISO with Highlight protection metering and -1EV for seagulls and other white stuff. Works quite well, but if conditions are less chaotic I always choose manual ISO.
Awesome yes we are at least compensating most folks Don’t understand you’ve got it down. Keep up the good work.
How do I change ISO in P mode 🤔🤔
In P mode ISO can be adjusted no problem. Just take it out of auto 😀
I used a program mode (aperture or shutter) for many years. When I decided to put the camera in manual+manual ISO it really didn't' take me too long to get the hang of it and get the proper exposure. Maybe 2-3 months? Yes, I missed some shots during that time but it was definitely worth it. There is certainly a consistency in my images, and a unique "look", that was missing when I shot auto iso or one of the program modes. Manual modes and shooting in kelvin instead of auto white balance, combined, gave me full creative control over the final image SOOC which I much prefer. Especially because I really, really, hate taking the time to process raw; as a result I always intend to get the "correct" image SOOC. I whole heartedly agree with the benefits of shooting fully manual and also very much recommend it.
Awesome well done
When I shot outdoors i tend to out -1 stop exposure compensation when i deal with lots of white.
Usually the camera does a good job but when i see it too dark or the whites flashing black, i put it in manually.
Latelly been shooting in dark clubs, auto iso or dial it in and balance with flash.
It depends on the situation and the level of which you need consistency from one pic to the other.
Yup
I don't trust the camera making any decisions for me, so i shoot in manual mode, then I select auto ISO. 🤣
@@jimbo27 lol
I use auto iso in video mode when I'm moving around with slow movements from dark areas to bright areas at events.
In photo mode I change it to keep my exposure meter in the middle at events as well.
Makes sense
I only ever use Auto ISO when I'm doing street or candid photography as I'd rather have a bit of grain than miss the moment. All other times I like to be in control as it's me I blame when I look at a rubbish photo I've taken.
@@Ozone280 👍
How about using Aperture Priority when doing street photography and portraits outdoors where you are moving around a lot? Would using Aperture priority be better? I know how to shoot in Manual but when you do street photography, it is hard to be changing the settings in manual so I started using auto-ISO like a year ago but then recently, I watched a few "professional" RUclipsrs mention that Aperture Priority is better, could you please give me your take on this? Thanks.
@@felm.974 sure you can do that the reason why aperture priority became famous along with cameras, like the canon AE1 in the day it’s because folks did not want to learn exposure. Yes, you can use aperture priority, but you need to understand and keep a very close eye on your shutter speed as well when doing streak photography.
@@camerasutra247 Thank you. Yeah, that's one thing I noticed, I would have to watch my shutter speed very closely, but I think that at least with this method, things will be a lot more consistent... (still testing it, the worst part is when the shutter speed gets too slow and having to raise my ISO quickly... let's see how things go) ... I wonder if using the Exposure compensation helpful...? ... Still testing things out..
@ yes your bokeh be more consistent for sure. There’s no right or wrong answer if you understand exposure, you can shoot any genre and produce amazing results.
@@camerasutra247 Oh, I didn't know AP made your bokeh more consistent, that's crazy, good to know, thanks man, but yeah, instead of auto ISO I think AP is the way to go for street photography of you are are moving around and the lighting conditions change a lot, but if you are not moving and have time to capture what you want to capture, manual is the best mode.
As a part-time professional photographer and what I mean is I'd still have a day job I never ever use auto ISO the only time I think I use it is when I'm in a very very dark scene and it's gonna be blowing out anyway and then I use the noise to fix it up, but even the noise software has some limitations with softening images but sometimes you just have to get the shot but I'm not a fan of giving the control over to the AI of the camera. I just find that it chooses ISO way higher than it needs to be and I then go okay well I'm just gonna learn how to work this. I know the shutter speed that I need.
Agreed
Not to mention using full manual has gotten a lot easier on mirrorless cameras because of exposure preview and having a histogram right there in real-time. I don't have a problem with the priority modes if you know what you're doing and are paying close attention. HOWEVER, I would advise against auto iso on a camera that doesn't show ISO in real time, like the Nikon D3500.
It’s a joke with Mirrorless so why it do it right.
What a ridiculous video - I'm a wildlife photographer and regularly shoot those eagles you mention. I use the latest mirrorless gear as well as classic DSLRs like the 1Di and 5Di. If a camera has the option, ISO is always set to auto and the shutter speed is varied according to the amount of motion. The only thing I see sabotaging amateur wildlife photographer's shots are blurry pics taken with too low SS in order to keep the ISO to "acceptable" levels. I have shots taken at 51200 and 102k ISO that are absolutely perfect quality because they are properly exposed.
@@msmith2016 thanks for the comment
Do you have examples of this proper exposure? No I didn't think so.
@ absolutely become a member and learn but I am sure that is not on your things to do either. Thanks for the comment. I guess the printed photo was not proof enough. Good luck
I always find auto ISO pics a too high ISO. So I shoot everything on manual since I can go from 1/60 to 1/2000 and f1.2 to 11 etc. Sometimes I set the ISO 3200 a whole evening and play with the other settings.
@@stayuntilforever 👍🙏
Shoot in RAW and you can adjust in post. Auto ISO is a gift from heaven for us photographers. Ohh, my snow is white with +1 on expose with auto ISO 😏
👍
I think your exposure settings for this video were very good but I think your face looked a tad dark. Maybe a bump of 1/3 stop would have been a bit better. Maybe it’s just personal preference so not a big deal. I do agree with most of what you’ve said in this video but I slightly disagree as to why there weren’t as many noise reduction software 10 years ago. One reason is that only more recently have the advancements in noise reduction reached the point where they actually benefit a noisy image and not do more harm than good. So now we’re seeing many more that work really. well and can therefore sell well. I don’t think more companies put out noise reduction software to mostly accommodate people who don’t know what they’re doing and produce noisy images, although that may be part of it. Many times it’s just not possible to shoot at lower ISO and that’s true of even the pros and often it is better to get a noisier shot than no shot or a blurry one. So, I think companies stepped up to address this and gave the many pro and serious enthusiast photographers a solution to this problem knowing that if they got excellent results their product would sell extremely well.
Valid perspective
Yes is the answer to your title, at least partially. Unnecessarily high ISO can also introduce unnecessary noise. Work out what shutter speed and aperture you need to get maximum light first, given the circumstances i.e. amount of movement in the shot. I've done street photography in low light so I was forced to get used to maximising settings for least noise.
@@ryanstark2350 🙏
@@camerasutra247 My opinion about auto settings in general is that they come nowhere near being as good as your own judgement about what is needed as long as you have learnt how to set things. The exception to this is when you need to work very fast to get shots in changing conditions. Then the speed of the auto will trump your speed for simply getting acceptable shots be it with less than ideal settings.
A big cause of this lack of knowledge about these things with people in general comes from smart phones in my opinion. These devices obviously use lots of clever auto tech to maximise shots and clean things up. The shots can look great on a small screen but go somewhere with a dedicated camera manually set then compare those to similar auto smart phone shots on a large high res screen. The smart phone shots will fall drastically short but a lot of people never actually view photos like this.
@ the problem is most people are translating, their smart phone habits to a professional machine which they have spent so much money on hence so much content out there that is not even worth looking at.
@@camerasutra247 When it comes to movement in the shot. This is totally a decision that you have to make without auto functions. You might want to freeze movement or create blur. To be a good photographer you need to look at the scene and judge exactly what shutter speed you need. I went through a phase of creating deliberate blur in street photos. I eventually knew the speed of people's movement and how slow the shutter speed needed to be to get a specific blur effect. For example how long their feet were stationary on the ground so that I got stationary feet and blurred everything else. This is the art of photography.
These days with very high performing cameras it's the least important aspect of the exposure triangle so let the computer decide.
@infinitesky-59 keep at it hope it works out for you in the long run.
Simplistic
@@fintonmainz7845 👍
I could say some things on this subject.
@@helsfury 👍
Another great video . One downfall to me is AI and products that fix corrections that the photographer should have corrected before they shot the picture . So many don't want to take the time to do it right or lack the knowledge . We shoot a lot of drag racing and I see so many so called pros shooting in auto and the pictures are poor . Don't rely on fix programs for poor skills .
@@tdwilcox makes sense and you are correct about ai
I despise auto ISO - Like many beginners (I'm just 3-years in) I bought into the shooting mode of manual + Auto iso for the very reason you mentioned - the so called RUclips experts pushed it as the go to setting to get those photo's I was fawning over that I would see on social media! - While it can and does work (sometimes) but, once you understand things like the exposure triangle, Histogram how it works and what it's telling you and the ettr method and that scene and subjects' matter for the right exposure a person will end up with way more keepers and more consistent results.
@@TheWildlifeGallery388 I am so excited to see this comment. Good for you to keep up the great work.