The best thing to happen to my photography hobby was getting my first dslr. Finding this channel has been a very close second. Thanks for all your videos!
Seen so many videos about ETTR but never really understood ’the why’ until now. Once again you are teaching an old dog new tricks! Please keep up the great work 👏👏👏
I've always had a good understanding of exposure, signal-to-noise ratios and histograms before, but this is the best explanation I've ever come across. I am going to save this link and if I ever run into someone who is having a hard time understanding these things, I will refer them here. Always.....thank you, Simon!!
I’ve always underexposed by one stop. I forget why I started to do that, probably a tip I read or heard somewhere. It’s become a habit, bad habits in photography are hard to stop once started. I’ve always been afraid of overexposing. I’ll get rid of that particular bad habit. Thank you for that explanation
Hi Simon, you gave great explanations and showed how to Expose To The Right. This bit was my favourite when you said, when you captured the Brighter image, you Frozen the Noise Profile of that photo, so when you Darken it again it stays at where you captured it. And including to use Exposure Compensation as well was so helpful to me. I knew about ETTR but didn't fully understand why, And I'm happy that I understood your explanation. A very important thing I learned today that will make a difference in my photography. Much appreciated Simon. 😊
This is awesome. I remember when digital SLRs first started being affordable and popular. It was recommended to under expose 1/3-2/3 stops to get deeper and richer color.
Thank you sir! This was an excellent and highly appreciated demonstration. You've simply cleared up an area of my photography where I had been struggling with. I'm an 80 year old new photographer and you have never failed to teach this 'old dog' something new in each and every one of your lectures. Again, thank you.
My photography journey begun anout a year ago and this channel has been my best go to resource when it comes to photography concepts. I am so happy to see that the number of subscribers has nearly double since I started as a subscriber. The most complicated concepts are explained by Simon in a way that the even the slowest person will understand it.
"Will all of this make you a better photographer?" Maybe not, but it's definitely the icing on the cake, which ultimately improves the overall quality of your photos. Improving many small margins goes a long way to accumulate ones work. I'll take anything I can get, especially from you. Great informational video, Simon 😊Even though as a relatively new photographer myself, your videos can at times be a bit technical and might reqiure a few replays.
Thank you for clear explanation. I stumpled upon this technique a year ago, and I wasn't sure how it works . But I tried It anyway and my images are at least one level up in quality :) I use micro-four-thirds camera, which is very sensitive to amount of light hitting the sensor. Now I "fill it up" and I always have more data for postprocessing. I can sometimes make an HDR from one shot - by lowering highlightes for proper exposure, and lifting shadows - which now have less noise than in normal shooting technique. Not perfect Full Frame experience but for amateur photography - that is good enough. Cheers :)
I started shooting film in high school in the mid-'60s and continued until I retired. Recently, after years of fighting it tooth and nail, I bought a digital camera (Nikon Zf) that gave me the feel of manual shooting back in the day of film-sort of. After watching several of your videos, this one gave me the needed epiphany. I was struggling with ISO and the histogram. I've seen the light! ETTR is the ticket! Thank you, thank you, and thank you!
Hello Simon thank you so much! I was wondering how to get my images less noisy and better quality and here you are explaining that issue and wow here you are giving that best tips and tricks helping me understand every detail, thank you so much as always keep going you're doing great as always! 👍🏻
Nice explanation. The technique requires to use either the back LCD or an EVF. This is not possible with those using OVF. The alternative is exposure bracketing, implying a lot of guesswork, or taking the image, look at the snapshot's istogram, and adjust. Both suboptimal. The third option is to get a new camera... 😅
Simon, I really appreciate the way that you convey information - and that you share your vast experience with us on youtube. You have certainly helped to improve my skills, thank you!
Thank you so much for this video and explanation. I was aware of ETTR, but about "over"exposing by lowering the shutterspeed or opening up the aperture and not the iso.
Fantastic advice Simon. I use the histogram all the time when processing shots and the difference it makes is amazing. Off course taking good "clean" shots helps but sometimes in the heat of things with the camera, it is all too easy to forget and fire and rely on your own instincts to be confident you "got the shot" with how you have the camera set up when used. At least in the post process stage there may be another chance to balance the shot out, but, if the image is clipped and too far into the dark or light, well, nothing can be done but try to salvage something or hit the trusted delete button. Lesson learned... hopefully. 🙂
I did an experiment following the ETTR on the gfx100s in raw. And yes the ETTER ( two stops overexposed) version has less noise as evidently comes out brighter. However, I noticed a significant drop in the dynamic range of this in post production,. Once I adjusted the ETTR version to a correct exposure, the lightroom adjustments, shadow and black handles, were maxed out before I could get the same satisfying result, as the normally exposed. If shadows are recorded too bright, it seems there is less dynamic range to pull from in the shadows.So for me, this is a give and take method.
Really nice and easy to follow lecture Simon. The only caveat I'd like to add is that most camera manufacturers don't provide raw histogram. The histogram on the display is based on the preview image, which has already some gamma (usually 2.2) applied. This means that the brightest part of the histogram is not really close to pixel saturation (where the clipping occurs). A good illustration is the kodak grey - which is 18% reflectance (so in linear color space it is at the 18% of the histogram), but because of the gamma applied it should show up around the middle of the histogram if exposed properly (46% to be precise). The only camera I know which can show the linear raw histogram is the Phase One IQ4 digital back. And it has a built in ETTR feature as well. You should be able to add roughly one more stop of light without the risk of clipping.
Interesting. The one thing that has helped my exposure technique when transitioning to mirrorless bodies is the ability to see the histogram, which has helped me stay away from the right side of it, which results in clipping. But ETTR makes total sense, and I will try to get it closer to the edge now without hitting and causing clipping. Thanks for the tip and excellent explanation!
Hi and Thank You Simon d'Entremont! When I look at photos on photographic websites, lately I've been seeing some that I think have noise artificially added. When enlarged, the noise pattern is very even, colorless, and the same intensity in the bright areas of the photo as in the dark areas.
Thank you so much for this video! I just got my first camera and have been going out to practice, and I accidentally left my ISO too high for the light conditions when I took some nice photos. When I came home, I realized that my photos were super noisy, and initially got confused because the ISO wasn’t THAT high. However, based on your previous videos, I wondered if it was because my shutter speed was also way too high due to the high ISO. Now, from this video, I can see that my hunch was correct! :) I love how clear and well-composed the information in your videos is, it really feels like every second is a learning experience. Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge.
Good tips Simon. Mostly, I adjust the exposure area manually for landscape/ adventure photo's to avoid highlight blow-outs and to avoid those greenish "blue sky's".
RIP Michael Reichmann of Luminous Landscape. Michael was the first to write about ETTR in 2003 with a few extra articles from 2011. I have been using this technique since that time. Additionally, to my understanding, the brighter parts of the image contain more data so are able to withstand greater manipulation. I was lucky enough to have a daughter living in Toronto when he closed his gallery so I have a few of his prints plus a few books. The photographic community is much the poorer for his passing 8 years ago. Sorry to hack your video which contains excellent information, its just that Michael's writings and videos were a significant part of my journey with digital photography and any reference to his work brings back memories.
@@BobN54 It has been a long time since I read Michael's article and whether his understanding of the science behind why ETTR worked may be debated as accurate or not, the main takeaway however, in practical terms, is exactly as presented by Simon. One ends up with a "cleaner" image if you reduce brightness in post vs brightening the blacks in a darker exposure.
@@Mark-qn9xl Sure, but as I said, Simon's explanation of why that is so is right, and Michaels, which was about using more 'ADC levels' was wrong. Nothing against Michael - it's just if you want to know how and why ETTR works use Simon's video, not Michael's original article. If he wasn't going to explain how it works, Simon might as well just said it's magic. If you explain something as a teacher you should try to get it right.
@@BobN54 There is one huge difference between 2003 and 2024, which is that what factor is the main contributor to the noise. Back in 2003 the biggest factor of the image noise was the read noise coming from the readout and the ADC, not the shot noise which is today. Hence Michael's article was correct in that day and age. With the modern "iso invariant" sensors it is still correct, but because of a different reason, which was illustrated by Simon nicely.
This might be one of the best practical examples for explaining why noise is not introduced by high ISO, but from lack of light. The photo comparisons are great for that. Usually not intuitive to convey because of the ASA analogies and the typical correlation between noisy images and higher ISOs under automatic exposure.
My Canon 6D tends to underexpose, so this is a fantastic reminder to ETTR with way more exposure compensation than I even had before. Thanks, Simon. Excellent video. *Thank you*
Feels like this video is posted just at the right time, as I was finding recent photos to turn out very noisy despite having tried other options. Extremely useful information! Definitely gonna try it next trip out and about!
Great informations!!! Thanks a lot. I was overexposing very often cause it felt better ... now I understand why I felt well with it :D Learned a lot and this is something I will use now heavily!!!
I learnt ETTR years ago and have always leaned that way with pretty much every shot since. I wasn’t aware quite how dramatic the difference in colour noise was though! Also, one of my favourite features of my OM1.2 is live blinkies, so you can see them even before you press the shutter. I’m sure other brands must offer it too, but it’s so useful, especially in challenging lighting conditions.
Well.... that earned you a Sub 🙂 We tend to forget about the physics of photons. Its not rocket science but we sure need reminding time to time. Thanks Simon. Brilliantly explained.
Thank you for this excellent description of how to expose. This might be too complicated for some, but the response of modern sensors is linear: twice the photons in equals almost twice the signal from the sensor, plus some noise. Film was not as linear, so you not only had to avoid clipping but you couldn't deliberately underexpose or the colors and textures wouldn't have that "film" look that people expected. Also, if you do your processing in Lightroom, it is set up to do an old trick from Ansel Adams. There are sliders to set a white point and a black point. There are then sliders to allocate the dynamic range between highlights, middle tones, and shadows.
Thank you for another well taught lesson. ETTR makes so much sense; I have made changes to my Canon and can hardly wait to see how the next batch of photos look.
Great video, Simon! I stumbled upon your channel by chance, and I’m absolutely loving every bit of it. You’re an amazing teacher, and you’ve demystified so many of the enigmas I’ve had about photography. Keep up the fantastic work!
Excellent content thank you Simon. Not only am I learing how to take better photographs but also how to work my own camera! I didn't know I could even get a histogram on the viewfinder, let alone how...🙃
I really appreciate your intelligent approach to all things photographic. I've seen many explanations of ETTR, but that was easily the best and most-comprehensive of all. I have a question for you. We've all heard of the exposure triangle many times - shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Do you agree that it should be the exposure quadrangle - shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and amount of light? It would seem that the amount of light is equally important, and always adjustable (flash setting, move to lighter or darker area, polarizer, ND filters, etc.).
Ohh ! I was taught the other way around. For film photography you should expose for the shadows and for digital photography to expose for the highlights. Cos it's easier to recover shadows in digital than highlights.
I am calling you “The Professor” from now on, I now understand what exposing to right means and I had no clue what colour noise was! Thank you.
That was exactly my thought too! I'll call him also Professor from now on! 😉
Thanks!
If he is the professor, who is hot sauce?
This is, by far, the simplest and best explanation of ETTR I’ve ever watched or read. Your style of teaching is simply amazing. Thank you.
Wow, thank you!
Thanks! Thats really a good explanation!
The best thing to happen to my photography hobby was getting my first dslr. Finding this channel has been a very close second. Thanks for all your videos!
So glad you're enjoying the content!
Seen so many videos about ETTR but never really understood ’the why’ until now. Once again you are teaching an old dog new tricks! Please keep up the great work 👏👏👏
Happy to help!
I've always had a good understanding of exposure, signal-to-noise ratios and histograms before, but this is the best explanation I've ever come across. I am going to save this link and if I ever run into someone who is having a hard time understanding these things, I will refer them here.
Always.....thank you, Simon!!
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve always underexposed by one stop. I forget why I started to do that, probably a tip I read or heard somewhere. It’s become a habit, bad habits in photography are hard to stop once started. I’ve always been afraid of overexposing. I’ll get rid of that particular bad habit. Thank you for that explanation
This is actually very interesting and clearly explained.
This is the best class in ETTR that I have seen, Simon...great work. Thanks for making us better photographers.
Hi Simon, you gave great explanations and showed how to Expose To The Right. This bit was my favourite when you said, when you captured the Brighter image, you Frozen the Noise Profile of that photo, so when you Darken it again it stays at where you captured it. And including to use Exposure Compensation as well was so helpful to me. I knew about ETTR but didn't fully understand why, And I'm happy that I understood your explanation. A very important thing I learned today that will make a difference in my photography. Much appreciated Simon. 😊
Thanks Simon 😊
This is awesome.
I remember when digital SLRs first started being affordable and popular. It was recommended to under expose 1/3-2/3 stops to get deeper and richer color.
Thank you a "super sharp" lesson on noise and exposures...👏👏👏
Thank you sir! This was an excellent and highly appreciated demonstration. You've simply cleared up an area of my photography where I had been struggling with. I'm an 80 year old new photographer and you have never failed to teach this 'old dog' something new in each and every one of your lectures. Again, thank you.
I'm glad it was helpful!
Now I understand the benefits. Thank you so much for the detailed explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
My photography journey begun anout a year ago and this channel has been my best go to resource when it comes to photography concepts. I am so happy to see that the number of subscribers has nearly double since I started as a subscriber. The most complicated concepts are explained by Simon in a way that the even the slowest person will understand it.
Hands down, best instructor on all things photography on YT! Thank you!
"Will all of this make you a better photographer?" Maybe not, but it's definitely the icing on the cake, which ultimately improves the overall quality of your photos. Improving many small margins goes a long way to accumulate ones work. I'll take anything I can get, especially from you. Great informational video, Simon 😊Even though as a relatively new photographer myself, your videos can at times be a bit technical and might reqiure a few replays.
Fantastic detailed explanation Simon. Thank you for taking the the time to share.🙏
Pure gold! Thank you!
Very welcome!
U r so intelligent n informative. It's awesome how u always share all of your knowledge so eloquently.
I’m glad you like it!
Thank you! This is by far the best video on ETTR that I have ever seen. I cannot wait to try this out.
Thank you for clear explanation. I stumpled upon this technique a year ago, and I wasn't sure how it works . But I tried It anyway and my images are at least one level up in quality :) I use micro-four-thirds camera, which is very sensitive to amount of light hitting the sensor. Now I "fill it up" and I always have more data for postprocessing. I can sometimes make an HDR from one shot - by lowering highlightes for proper exposure, and lifting shadows - which now have less noise than in normal shooting technique. Not perfect Full Frame experience but for amateur photography - that is good enough.
Cheers :)
Brilliant video thank you, your explanations and techniques are priceless..
You are very welcome
Monsieur d'Entremont, you are the best. Thanks for making these great videos.
Learning something new (to me) today. Happy times. Thank you, Simon.
My pleasure!
That short video gave me so much information I can’t thank you enough. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Expose to the right. That's definitely something useful I didn't know! Thanks, Simon!
You just won a new subscriber. Wish everyone would explain as nice as you do. Thanks "professor"! ;)
This video is gold 🏆 Big thanks for explaining the technicalities of ETTR and how to use it practically in the real world.
I'm glad you found it helpful!
I started shooting film in high school in the mid-'60s and continued until I retired. Recently, after years of fighting it tooth and nail, I bought a digital camera (Nikon Zf) that gave me the feel of manual shooting back in the day of film-sort of. After watching several of your videos, this one gave me the needed epiphany. I was struggling with ISO and the histogram. I've seen the light! ETTR is the ticket! Thank you, thank you, and thank you!
Hello Simon thank you so much! I was wondering how to get my images less noisy and better quality and here you are explaining that issue and wow here you are giving that best tips and tricks helping me understand every detail, thank you so much as always keep going you're doing great as always! 👍🏻
The excitement in Simon’s voice when revealing that you can crush the noise in post 😂😂😂
Thank you again sir. Great content.
Great explanations as always. Thank you
My pleasure!
Nice explanation. The technique requires to use either the back LCD or an EVF. This is not possible with those using OVF. The alternative is exposure bracketing, implying a lot of guesswork, or taking the image, look at the snapshot's istogram, and adjust. Both suboptimal. The third option is to get a new camera... 😅
With a DSLR, live view or a test shot would be the techniques to use.
Simon, I really appreciate the way that you convey information - and that you share your vast experience with us on youtube. You have certainly helped to improve my skills, thank you!
I appreciate that!
Thank you so much for this video and explanation. I was aware of ETTR, but about "over"exposing by lowering the shutterspeed or opening up the aperture and not the iso.
Great video on this topic Simon, you are a fantastic educator 👏
Fantastic advice Simon. I use the histogram all the time when processing shots and the difference it makes is amazing. Off course taking good "clean" shots helps but sometimes in the heat of things with the camera, it is all too easy to forget and fire and rely on your own instincts to be confident you "got the shot" with how you have the camera set up when used. At least in the post process stage there may be another chance to balance the shot out, but, if the image is clipped and too far into the dark or light, well, nothing can be done but try to salvage something or hit the trusted delete button. Lesson learned... hopefully. 🙂
I did an experiment following the ETTR on the gfx100s in raw. And yes the ETTER ( two stops overexposed) version has less noise as evidently comes out brighter. However, I noticed a significant drop in the dynamic range of this in post production,. Once I adjusted the ETTR version to a correct exposure, the lightroom adjustments, shadow and black handles, were maxed out before I could get the same satisfying result, as the normally exposed. If shadows are recorded too bright, it seems there is less dynamic range to pull from in the shadows.So for me, this is a give and take method.
Interesting. If there wasn’t any clipping, it should have had better dynamic range. Note that all colour channels won’t clip at the same time.
Brilliant video! 👏🏻
Simple. Always keep in mind that you can recover shadows from pitch black, but you can't recover highlights at all.
Really nice and easy to follow lecture Simon. The only caveat I'd like to add is that most camera manufacturers don't provide raw histogram. The histogram on the display is based on the preview image, which has already some gamma (usually 2.2) applied. This means that the brightest part of the histogram is not really close to pixel saturation (where the clipping occurs). A good illustration is the kodak grey - which is 18% reflectance (so in linear color space it is at the 18% of the histogram), but because of the gamma applied it should show up around the middle of the histogram if exposed properly (46% to be precise). The only camera I know which can show the linear raw histogram is the Phase One IQ4 digital back. And it has a built in ETTR feature as well.
You should be able to add roughly one more stop of light without the risk of clipping.
I agree to all! we need a raw-based histogram.
Interesting. The one thing that has helped my exposure technique when transitioning to mirrorless bodies is the ability to see the histogram, which has helped me stay away from the right side of it, which results in clipping. But ETTR makes total sense, and I will try to get it closer to the edge now without hitting and causing clipping. Thanks for the tip and excellent explanation!
That’s the key, a little closer to the edge, without going over.
Thank You Simon, I'll go and try those tips...was wondering about noise issue... Thanks ❤️😃
Hi and Thank You Simon d'Entremont! When I look at photos on photographic websites, lately I've been seeing some that I think have noise artificially added. When enlarged, the noise pattern is very even, colorless, and the same intensity in the bright areas of the photo as in the dark areas.
You have such a great way of explaining these techniques. It is very much appreciated. Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Great hack Simon. Thank you ~
Even though I know this stuff, I still find it both entertaining and educational to watch Simon give his view on ETTR. Great video! =)
This is, by far, the simplest and best explanation
You make my day !!!
Thank you
Thanks Simon, for explaining so clearly. Greatly appreciated!
The best explanation ever! You make things understandable and easy to practice! You are called "the Professor" below...I second that!!!! thank you!
Wow, thank you!
Thank you so much for this video! I just got my first camera and have been going out to practice, and I accidentally left my ISO too high for the light conditions when I took some nice photos. When I came home, I realized that my photos were super noisy, and initially got confused because the ISO wasn’t THAT high. However, based on your previous videos, I wondered if it was because my shutter speed was also way too high due to the high ISO. Now, from this video, I can see that my hunch was correct! :)
I love how clear and well-composed the information in your videos is, it really feels like every second is a learning experience. Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge.
Good tips Simon.
Mostly, I adjust the exposure area manually for landscape/ adventure photo's to avoid highlight blow-outs and to avoid those greenish "blue sky's".
RIP Michael Reichmann of Luminous Landscape. Michael was the first to write about ETTR in 2003 with a few extra articles from 2011. I have been using this technique since that time. Additionally, to my understanding, the brighter parts of the image contain more data so are able to withstand greater manipulation.
I was lucky enough to have a daughter living in Toronto when he closed his gallery so I have a few of his prints plus a few books. The photographic community is much the poorer for his passing 8 years ago.
Sorry to hack your video which contains excellent information, its just that Michael's writings and videos were a significant part of my journey with digital photography and any reference to his work brings back memories.
Unfortunately, Michael's understanding of why ETTR worked was completely wrong. Simon's is right.
@@BobN54 It has been a long time since I read Michael's article and whether his understanding of the science behind why ETTR worked may be debated as accurate or not, the main takeaway however, in practical terms, is exactly as presented by Simon. One ends up with a "cleaner" image if you reduce brightness in post vs brightening the blacks in a darker exposure.
@@Mark-qn9xl Sure, but as I said, Simon's explanation of why that is so is right, and Michaels, which was about using more 'ADC levels' was wrong. Nothing against Michael - it's just if you want to know how and why ETTR works use Simon's video, not Michael's original article. If he wasn't going to explain how it works, Simon might as well just said it's magic. If you explain something as a teacher you should try to get it right.
@@BobN54 There is one huge difference between 2003 and 2024, which is that what factor is the main contributor to the noise. Back in 2003 the biggest factor of the image noise was the read noise coming from the readout and the ADC, not the shot noise which is today. Hence Michael's article was correct in that day and age. With the modern "iso invariant" sensors it is still correct, but because of a different reason, which was illustrated by Simon nicely.
This might be one of the best practical examples for explaining why noise is not introduced by high ISO, but from lack of light. The photo comparisons are great for that. Usually not intuitive to convey because of the ASA analogies and the typical correlation between noisy images and higher ISOs under automatic exposure.
agree!
Best video, this far actually Simon!
I’m new to photography and I’m always learning something new every time I watch your videos. You’re amazing, thank you 🙌🏻👌🏻😁🙏
My Canon 6D tends to underexpose, so this is a fantastic reminder to ETTR with way more exposure compensation than I even had before. Thanks, Simon. Excellent video. *Thank you*
Feels like this video is posted just at the right time, as I was finding recent photos to turn out very noisy despite having tried other options. Extremely useful information! Definitely gonna try it next trip out and about!
Great to hear!
Thank you Simon, very didactic explanation as always. 👍
Very welcome
A very clear explanation of what ETTR means and how to do it. Thanks.
Glad you liked it
Great job on the video. Your SNR shot-noise chart animation @ 2:20 with linear light vs sqrt(light) was especially well-done.
Brilliant explanation ☺️ thank you
Oh ding! A real lightbulb moment! Literally and metaphorically. Thank you so much Simon!
As usual, a great explanation of a technique that few truly understand.
Many thanks!
Great informations!!! Thanks a lot. I was overexposing very often cause it felt better ... now I understand why I felt well with it :D Learned a lot and this is something I will use now heavily!!!
must in studio, great n simple and slow changing environment.. stay on the save side in Shows, Concerts, and Theater..
Great, easy to understand. Excellent explanation
Thank you. I look forward to trying ETTR, but, now, off to your Histogram video ! Cheers.
You can do it!
WoW, that’s a great lesson learned… I had no clue on the different types of ISO…
ETTR becomes my way to go in dark / high ISO conditions…
Thanks 😊
I learnt ETTR years ago and have always leaned that way with pretty much every shot since. I wasn’t aware quite how dramatic the difference in colour noise was though!
Also, one of my favourite features of my OM1.2 is live blinkies, so you can see them even before you press the shutter. I’m sure other brands must offer it too, but it’s so useful, especially in challenging lighting conditions.
Well.... that earned you a Sub 🙂
We tend to forget about the physics of photons. Its not rocket science but we sure need reminding time to time. Thanks Simon. Brilliantly explained.
Great explanation. The principle is similar to the way old analog audio noise reduction systems functioned- Dolby and DBx.
It's all about managing the signal to noise ratio
I struggle with this! Thank you so much… once again!
My pleasure!
Thanks Simon for your insight on ETTR!
Extremely valuable tip, thank you!
Best explanation ever. Bravo.
Glad you think so!
Fantastic explanation, thanks for the effort you put in to these videos.
My pleasure!
Great lesson, thank you.
My pleasure!
thanks for this amazing content i really have learned a lot with your videos
Glad to hear it!
Most excellent explanation of this. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent explanation! The examples shot at the same ISO were really enlightening.
I'm glad you found those helpful!
Another very good video Simon
Thanks 👍
Top tip again Simon!
Thank you for this excellent description of how to expose. This might be too complicated for some, but the response of modern sensors is linear: twice the photons in equals almost twice the signal from the sensor, plus some noise. Film was not as linear, so you not only had to avoid clipping but you couldn't deliberately underexpose or the colors and textures wouldn't have that "film" look that people expected.
Also, if you do your processing in Lightroom, it is set up to do an old trick from Ansel Adams. There are sliders to set a white point and a black point. There are then sliders to allocate the dynamic range between highlights, middle tones, and shadows.
Thank you for another well taught lesson. ETTR makes so much sense; I have made changes to my Canon and can hardly wait to see how the next batch of photos look.
This information is pure gold!! Thanks.
Superb explanation superb presentation, thank you for keeping the bar high
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant explanation
This is a wonderful explanation. I try to do this each time but was a little "hazy" on why. Now I know. Thank you.
I'm glad it clicked!
That was crystal clear, just acquired new knowledge. Now I couldn’t resist to subscribe. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great video, Simon! I stumbled upon your channel by chance, and I’m absolutely loving every bit of it. You’re an amazing teacher, and you’ve demystified so many of the enigmas I’ve had about photography. Keep up the fantastic work!
Welcome aboard!
Excellent content thank you Simon. Not only am I learing how to take better photographs but also how to work my own camera! I didn't know I could even get a histogram on the viewfinder, let alone how...🙃
Fantastic!
Robisz świetną robotę! Dzięki.
Your videos are so reminiscent of my engineering days! Very nice explanations Simon!
I really appreciate your intelligent approach to all things photographic. I've seen many explanations of ETTR, but that was easily the best and most-comprehensive of all. I have a question for you. We've all heard of the exposure triangle many times - shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Do you agree that it should be the exposure quadrangle - shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and amount of light? It would seem that the amount of light is equally important, and always adjustable (flash setting, move to lighter or darker area, polarizer, ND filters, etc.).
I’d add light and drop iso and keep it a triangle!
@@simon_dentremont I'll have to think about that one.
spot on advice . :)
Worth watching multiple times coupled with the referenced histogram video. Carry on. 👍🥂
Ohh ! I was taught the other way around. For film photography you should expose for the shadows and for digital photography to expose for the highlights. Cos it's easier to recover shadows in digital than highlights.
It’s easier to recover shadows in digital, yes.