Everybody commenting here that thinks this can't work completely missed how simple it is and how it actually works. Go back to 5:03 and play it in slow motion. The small hole is drilled first. The large hole is drilled second. The large drill bit will perfectly follow the small hole based on how bits function as explained in the first part of the video. You don't need a drill press. You don't need a Forstner bit. You don't even need to drill perpendicular to the board used as a jig. You could drill at a 69.34 degree angle and it's still going to work. It doesn't even matter. This is genius. This guy should win a Nobel prize for jig making.
We newbies search RUclips to help solve the current problem. Don’t have time to become rocket scientists. Thus, the videos should be explicit in what to do.
I'm absolutely with you. Except one point which doesn't let me stop thinkering about... how that dowel fits into the block when there's no hole (or let's say "tunnel") in its diameter which typically would been made with a forstner bit..? Maybe I'm thinking too far.. 🤯🤓🤷🏻♂️ Thx in advance
Thanks dude. Loved the idea and tried it out myself. Found a block, used a one inch Forstner bit to make initial hole in my block, but not all the way through. I then changed my bit to the bit to 3/8” bit, then I drilled it dead centre into my my first hole all the way through the block. My one inch dowel fit perfectly in the hole tight, then I clamped it down into my vice and used my hand drill with my 3/8” bit fit perfectly into the hole and it drilled dead centre into the dowel. I had to knock out the block to remove the dowel, and , “Voila” worked perfectly. Best RUclips video ever made on how to make a hole dead centre in a dowel. Like the man said, “I dare you to try it out”. Please post a better video for all those non believers. Cheers and I hope many more subscribe.
@@markschoenberger7825 I think you're better off drilling with the large Forstner bit first so you have a pilot guide for the smaller drill bit, to follow. Either way , perfection is not likely to happen every time, not for the smaller bit, due to wood grain, that will quite often push the bit away from center.
I like drilling but and i learned new things all the time. Even though i was a drill maker for many years i did not do much woodworking. This method should also work for metal. Love it. Grasias...amigo. ... A few terms i do remember: The spiral grooves along the drill are called flutes. The "cutting edge" of the tip is what does the cutting. The " point angle" is normally 118° for standard cutting.. or it can be 135° for harder material such as hardened steel. Cheers, Chemosabi.
I'm about to repair my Grandads' bamboo walking cane, and as you know bamboo is hollow. Now the stick had been cut down twice, once for my Dad who was 6' 1", then for my Mum who was 5' 10". Now I'm in need of a stick and would love to be the 3rd generation using it, but at 5' 11¾" it needs lengthening. I've got some bamboo the right diameter to match the last cut, but I'll have to use an insert/dowel to strengthen the join. I might consider running a length of mild steel right down the center of the cane, (day and age thing). Well this seems ideal for me to get started on the hole. Thanks.
This works great for just about all dowels, both softwood (poplar, basswood) and hardwood (birch, maple), but there's one wood that's more challenging and that is oak. The end-grain of oak alternates very hard regions with porous ones, such that the bit is easily driven off center, especially the smaller diameter bits you'd choose for the pilot hole. So strong is the effect that it may actually bend the bit and distort the hole in your jig--if the bit doesn't break instead. If you plan to drill oaken dowels, be sure to make your jig out of some very hard wood: rock maple, hickory, or oak itself. And if you mean to drill a lot of dowels, you'd do well to shoe the guide hole with a piece of ¼" cold-rolled steel. Even at that, start drilling at a very slow speed, giving the bit time to make itself a divot, then speed up to bore the rest.
I don't know my woods, but I have had trouble with just about everything I've used, even with poplar that I'm currently using, getting center to stay center is a challenge, and all I need is a center punch not a hole. I can get the punch lined up, using calipers/ center tools, etc, know the center is for sure center, punch, set on lathe, and wobble wobble wobble. 😄
I was looking for a howto video to drill a center hole in a dowel, and boy did I found it when I found your video, its so simple its ridiculous, thank you so much ior sharing, just subscribed!
Brilliant sir. No expensive tools. Works with any lengths of dowels. I’m about to try it on 8-foot dowels that need to be connected by dowel screws. No way to fit 8-foot dowel on a drill press lol.
Great info. I will soon be drilling some 1/4" holes into a flat polyethylene (starboard) block to make kayak 1.5" seat risers. I can clamp the guide piece onto the polyethylene after I drill my guide hole. Since I don't have a drill press, my biggest challenge will be making a vertical hole in the guide board, but at least I can drill scrap wood until I get it right.
Would have been nice to show the important part - how you make sure that the smaller hole is dead center in your template. You need to get that right, or all of your holes are off center.
the smaller hole is the first hole you drill. drill it the whole way through. use that as a pilot hole for the bigger bit that's sized for your dowel. it's automatically centered and follows the same plane. doesn't matter if it's square to the 2x3 because the dowel will also follow the same plane as the template.
yeah seems like freehand making the template you might have to try a number of times before you get one dead center. Seems like this relies on having a drill press where if you're having trouble you can clamp the workpiece once you've centered it under the drill if it's wandering when you don't.
@@fcrick I thought the same at first, but then realized that there is one hole, the smallest (guide) hole, that goes all the way through, then the larger pilot bit and dowel-size bit follow its center perfectly, whether the pilot is perpendicular or not. (Previous comments infer the same thing.)
Looks good. Boring machines rotate the stock, not the drill. Much more accurate because rotating the stock automatically corrects itself. The combination of small pilot holes and rotating the stock will give you a perfect hole.
Blown my mind that you don't really need to drill it perfectly at 90' degrees - you can do it with a hand drill. Since the bigger hole will follow smaller hole perfectly anyways.
Dam I swear y tube is spying on me even when nothing is on. Yesterday was doing some shop cleaning and looking for something and I came across a length of wood with a bunch of graduated holes in it and could not remember what it was for and today this came on my feed. Gotta start marking stuff. Oh yea tried it out and it works great.
Yes. Old school RUclips. A current guy would have spent 10 minutes giving the history of the electric drill, followed by ten minutes on how to buy a dowel.
Watched the VT whilst reading the comments. No problem understanding what was being said, as for the ‘jig’ don’t think that needed too much explanation/ instruction 👍
I saw one other idea before this one to do this type of drilling process into the end of a rod and was(past tense) going to use it. But this end jig guide idea is absolutely just too brilliantly simple to do anything except work perfectly and it's portable and doesn't even need any batteries. Man-o-man the amount of headaches and aspirin consumed that could have been avoided over the years(as my mind takes a trip down nightmare memory lane). Bayer company got a unknown caused cold sweat just happen. lol
Get a block of wood. Drill a pilot hole through. Drill a second hole to fit your dowel half way through following the pilot hole. These holes will be concentric. Use this block as a centering tool to drill the dowel.
inmarkman's comment below is WHY I can't give this vid a thumbs up, "Would have been nice to show the important part - how you make sure that the smaller hole is dead center in your template. You need to get that right, or all of your holes are off center."
I get what you're doing but you basically skipped over the most important part of the video which is how to drill the wood block properly....clamping the block and drilling the dowel size with a Forstner bit (best choice for this) and then chucking up the center hole bit with the block still clamped in the same place....why would you fast forward through that part without instruction?....doesn't make sense to me....there are going to be many beginners watching who won't be able to 'reverse engineer' what you did.
you can just put the dowell in the drill chuck and the drill bit in the vice. this spins the dowell and the drill bit does not move. and not not do this stupid block thingy. drill the dowel into the bit, this is how a lathe works and how center holes are drilled.
You're right, I'm a professional carpenter and figured out what he did, which was actually a good trick. But someone who doesn't have as much experience is not going to figure out what he did because it was filmed so poorly.
it would have been nice if you showed how you made the jig slower so it was easier to understand. I understand how you made the jig but how you got it large hole lined up with the larger hole.
Of course clamping onto a drill press will always line the holes up, but I like how you also showed how to do it without a drill press, in case a person isn't near one.
@@anonymous.369 no you don't. Drill the 1/4" hole, then the 1/2", and finally the 3/4". As long as the walls are parallel with each other (they should be since the smaller hole guides the larger bits) then the final hole through the dowel will be straight and centered.
twist drills wander. the smaller the drill the more it can wander. Doesn't matter if you started with a guide bushing. They will wander in highly homogeneous material and wood is definitely not homogeneous. The best way to prevent wander in wood is with a forstner bit or a brad.
The title of the video isn't how to make a larger hole down the center given an existing perfectly centered smaller hole, so unless I'm really stupid I haven't learned how to make an initial hole straight down the center of a dowel. Was the point simply to use a small bit and a drill press or is there some special technique involved? .. which was what I was looking for.
Maybe my video skipped, because I failed to see your use of two different sizes of Forstner buts to drill your block. Clamping the dowel on a vise will leave marks as it crushes the wood. I suggest you study up on “depth of field” of your camera lens. Make your objects look in focus to your audience.
It doesn't have to be. That's his point. The 1/4" hole goes straight through, then the 1/2" follows that hole concentrically, and then the same with the 3/4" through the 1/2" hole, all concentrically aligned, whether perpendicular to the block or not.
I don't need a hole in my dowels, I need punch centers for the lathe spurs, the trouble with wooden dowels, is that even though you have the punch flat ,dead center, it will wonder just like a drill bit, not because of the design of either, but because of the stubborn grain in the wood that will push the center punch or bit to the weakest part of the dowel end, and be off center, like 50 t0 70% of the time. This method in the video would work I'm sure, it's a good idea/concept. If any of you are going to try this, I think you need to get a Forstner bit the exact size of the dowel diameter, and go from there, the smaller bit, lol, may wonder on you, but a drill guide might help. You may have to do more than one 'rig' to get it right.
Simple and diabolically clever! Uses the cutting action of twist drills to make a quick, accurate drilling jig. Going to try it right now. Update: drilled perfectly centered holes in three 5/8" diameter wooden dowels that were 1" long. His method is simple and works great.
There is a simpler way without any jigs. Just keep the drill bit stationary and rotate the dowel instead. This is easier on the lathe, but I suppose can still be done on drill press assuming the dowel is not too long and fits in the chuck.
This was the most difficult instructional video I ever watched. I'm not the sharpest tool (no pun intended), I can admit that, but holy shit was I lost watching this.
@@kbi4739 No Insult intended, but im glad I'm not alone as not the sharpest tool. I needed a 1/2" hole through a 1" dowel, 6" Deep. I just got a 1 1/2" Pole, Got the hole as close as I could, put it on my bench grinding arbor and sanded it down to 1". It was close enough
This would have been a lot clearer if you had made a jig purposely off-angle, because it seems a lot of people aren't getting the trick. A larger bit will follow a pilot hole quite nicely, so you can always drill a larger hole perfectly on top of a pilot hole, regardless of its angle to the larger block of wood. So when you take that jig in reverse, and stick a dowel into the larger hole, the smaller hole will still be perfect on center, as long as you didn't drill the larger hole all the way through and destroy it. Even if the hole is 32.67734578 degrees off vertical.
This fellow is ingenious. But, make sure to:.1) Use stacked layers of plywood (glued or screwed together) to make the guide, as wood grains may make it harder to keep the bit straight. 2) Use a drill guide with a drill bit the same size as the one needed for the hole in the dowel. This hole must go through the entire piece. The drill guide will ensure that the hole goes straight (you can check by putting center marks on both sides and verifying that the hole indeed hits the opposite mark when it comes out). 3) on the opposite side drill to a desired depth using bits of increasingly larger diameter up to the diameter of the dowel. This will produce the housing for the dowel. 4) After inserting the dowel in this hole (and possibly securing it with a small lateral screw in the guide), drill from the opposite side with the original bit. Using this method, I was able to drill longitudinally through a 3/16 inch steel screw using only a hand held drill and drill guide.
![precise axial drilling jig for long wood [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zIH6VBm0eTo/mqdefault.jpg)
Everybody commenting here that thinks this can't work completely missed how simple it is and how it actually works. Go back to 5:03 and play it in slow motion. The small hole is drilled first. The large hole is drilled second. The large drill bit will perfectly follow the small hole based on how bits function as explained in the first part of the video. You don't need a drill press. You don't need a Forstner bit. You don't even need to drill perpendicular to the board used as a jig. You could drill at a 69.34 degree angle and it's still going to work. It doesn't even matter. This is genius. This guy should win a Nobel prize for jig making.
Thank you. That angle info was not obvious at all.
We newbies search RUclips to help solve the current problem. Don’t have time to become rocket scientists. Thus, the videos should be explicit in what to do.
Thanks that makes a lot more sense.
I'm absolutely with you.
Except one point which doesn't let me stop thinkering about... how that dowel fits into the block when there's no hole (or let's say "tunnel") in its diameter which typically would been made with a forstner bit..?
Maybe I'm thinking too far.. 🤯🤓🤷🏻♂️
Thx in advance
Thanks dude. Loved the idea and tried it out myself. Found a block, used a one inch Forstner bit to make initial hole in my block, but not all the way through. I then changed my bit to the bit to 3/8” bit, then I drilled it dead centre into my my first hole all the way through the block. My one inch dowel fit perfectly in the hole tight, then I clamped it down into my vice and used my hand drill with my 3/8” bit fit perfectly into the hole and it drilled dead centre into the dowel. I had to knock out the block to remove the dowel, and , “Voila” worked perfectly. Best RUclips video ever made on how to make a hole dead centre in a dowel. Like the man said, “I dare you to try it out”. Please post a better video for all those non believers. Cheers and I hope many more subscribe.
Yiu were supposed to drill the small hole first. He did not explain well.
Spends 5.37 talking about obvious or irrelevant stuff, speeds through on the actual device used to do the job. 😆
@@markschoenberger7825
I think you're better off drilling with the large Forstner bit
first so you have a pilot guide for the smaller drill bit,
to follow. Either way , perfection is not likely
to happen every time, not for the smaller bit,
due to wood grain, that will quite often push
the bit away from center.
This is a very good idea. even though the video wasn’t very instructional, I still understand the concept.
I like drilling but and i learned new things all the time. Even though i was a drill maker for many years i did not do much woodworking. This method should also work for metal.
Love it. Grasias...amigo.
... A few terms i do remember:
The spiral grooves along the drill are called flutes.
The "cutting edge" of the tip is what does the cutting.
The " point angle" is normally 118° for standard cutting..
or it can be 135° for harder material such as hardened steel.
Cheers, Chemosabi.
Great tip. I'm just getting into turning pens from dowels and this will make drilling holes in the dowels very easy. Thanks for the video.
Excellent tip. Thanks!
So simple and cost effective, plus it will reduce the frustration of trying to cent holes in a dowel. Great video!
Great tip!
Its really quite simple brilliant. Thank you.
I'm about to repair my Grandads' bamboo walking cane, and as you know bamboo is hollow. Now the stick had been cut down twice, once for my Dad who was 6' 1", then for my Mum who was 5' 10". Now I'm in need of a stick and would love to be the 3rd generation using it, but at 5' 11¾" it needs lengthening. I've got some bamboo the right diameter to match the last cut, but I'll have to use an insert/dowel to strengthen the join. I might consider running a length of mild steel right down the center of the cane, (day and age thing). Well this seems ideal for me to get started on the hole. Thanks.
A young man like you doesn't need a stick
Well thanks buddy. You just answered my question of how I can drill a centered hole in a sphere without a drill press.
Finally I found what I was looking for. All other videos are showing super short dowels!!
excellent I'll be using this trick!
This works great for just about all dowels, both softwood (poplar, basswood) and hardwood (birch, maple), but there's one wood that's more challenging and that is oak. The end-grain of oak alternates very hard regions with porous ones, such that the bit is easily driven off center, especially the smaller diameter bits you'd choose for the pilot hole. So strong is the effect that it may actually bend the bit and distort the hole in your jig--if the bit doesn't break instead. If you plan to drill oaken dowels, be sure to make your jig out of some very hard wood: rock maple, hickory, or oak itself. And if you mean to drill a lot of dowels, you'd do well to shoe the guide hole with a piece of ¼" cold-rolled steel. Even at that, start drilling at a very slow speed, giving the bit time to make itself a divot, then speed up to bore the rest.
I don't know my woods, but I have had trouble
with just about everything I've used, even with poplar
that I'm currently using, getting center to stay
center is a challenge, and all I need is a center
punch not a hole. I can get the punch lined up,
using calipers/ center tools, etc, know the center
is for sure center,
punch, set on lathe, and wobble
wobble wobble. 😄
used this to make mouthpieces for cigars. AMAZING results. 2mm bit. INCREDIBLY straight jigs
I was looking for a howto video to drill a center hole in a dowel, and boy did I found it when I found your video, its so simple its ridiculous, thank you so much ior sharing, just subscribed!
your supposed to put the drill bit in the vice and put the dowell in the drill chuck..
Very Good. Thumbs up. Thank you.
Brilliant sir. No expensive tools. Works with any lengths of dowels. I’m about to try it on 8-foot dowels that need to be connected by dowel screws. No way to fit 8-foot dowel on a drill press lol.
This was a great teaching tip! Thank you....
Great tip. Thanks.
I actually did this twice today and it was a struggle dig your jig I will definitely use it
Great idea!
I thought this was going to be a clever mathematical way to find a center but lo and behold a nifty little jig: I WILL USE THIS! thank you! subbed.
Great info. I will soon be drilling some 1/4" holes into a flat polyethylene (starboard) block to make kayak 1.5" seat risers. I can clamp the guide piece onto the polyethylene after I drill my guide hole. Since I don't have a drill press, my biggest challenge will be making a vertical hole in the guide board, but at least I can drill scrap wood until I get it right.
nice tutorial
Use a spring loaded punch. Works on metal frame drilling as well. The bit stays right in the divot created, and won't walk if you can drill straight.
At last, something that works and works well with simple tools! Thanks!!
Would have been nice to show the important part - how you make sure that the smaller hole is dead center in your template. You need to get that right, or all of your holes are off center.
the smaller hole is the first hole you drill. drill it the whole way through. use that as a pilot hole for the bigger bit that's sized for your dowel. it's automatically centered and follows the same plane.
doesn't matter if it's square to the 2x3 because the dowel will also follow the same plane as the template.
@@ryanabell5923 exactly 👍🏼😆 sorry couldn't help laughing at the thought of the question, but we all need to start somewhere.
yeah seems like freehand making the template you might have to try a number of times before you get one dead center. Seems like this relies on having a drill press where if you're having trouble you can clamp the workpiece once you've centered it under the drill if it's wandering when you don't.
@@fcrick I thought the same at first, but then realized that there is one hole, the smallest (guide) hole, that goes all the way through, then the larger pilot bit and dowel-size bit follow its center perfectly, whether the pilot is perpendicular or not. (Previous comments infer the same thing.)
Won't work if the pilot hole is pretty wide. You also have to have a bit with exactly the same diameter as the dowel.@@ryanabell5923
Bloody good tip!! Thanx, will be trying that in the future.
fantastic video!!!!
Holy cow! This is absolutely genius! Thank you for the awesome tutorial.
This is excellent. Thanks!
Looks good. Boring machines rotate the stock, not the drill. Much more accurate because rotating the stock automatically corrects itself. The combination of small pilot holes and rotating the stock will give you a perfect hole.
Very clever mate😄
great little jig thanks
Small hole first then bigger hole. Good video!
Absolutely brilliant, and simple, which is the mark of true brilliance.
Blown my mind that you don't really need to drill it perfectly at 90' degrees - you can do it with a hand drill. Since the bigger hole will follow smaller hole perfectly anyways.
Dam I swear y tube is spying on me even when nothing is on. Yesterday was doing some shop cleaning and looking for something and I came across a length of wood with a bunch of graduated holes in it and could not remember what it was for and today this came on my feed. Gotta start marking stuff. Oh yea tried it out and it works great.
Not only is it useful information it also has that early days RUclips style nobody else manages to accomplish.
Yes. Old school RUclips. A current guy would have spent 10 minutes giving the history of the electric drill, followed by ten minutes on how to buy a dowel.
@@jaesbow ...and affiliate links (salesmen) and 12
midroll ads that no one watches.
nice thanks
Thanks!
Watched the VT whilst reading the comments.
No problem understanding what was being said, as for the ‘jig’ don’t think that needed too much explanation/ instruction 👍
I saw one other idea before this one to do this type of drilling process into the end of a rod and was(past tense) going to use it. But this end jig guide idea is absolutely just too brilliantly simple to do anything except work perfectly and it's portable and doesn't even need any batteries. Man-o-man the amount of headaches and aspirin consumed that could have been avoided over the years(as my mind takes a trip down nightmare memory lane). Bayer company got a unknown caused cold sweat just happen. lol
Get a block of wood. Drill a pilot hole through. Drill a second hole to fit your dowel half way through following the pilot hole. These holes will be concentric. Use this block as a centering tool to drill the dowel.
Just what I needed to know as I have to drill a curtain pole which is i two halves so I can fit a dowel to keep themin kine. Brilliantly simple idea.
Do you have a video that shows this process for a square (or not so square) piece of wood. Eg. a pen blank. Thanks
This was the best solution for my strange problem. Thanks!
inmarkman's comment below is WHY I can't give this vid a thumbs up, "Would have been nice to show the important part - how you make sure that the smaller hole is dead center in your template. You need to get that right, or all of your holes are off center."
Great simple tip, THanks
I get what you're doing but you basically skipped over the most important part of the video which is how to drill the wood block properly....clamping the block and drilling the dowel size with a Forstner bit (best choice for this) and then chucking up the center hole bit with the block still clamped in the same place....why would you fast forward through that part without instruction?....doesn't make sense to me....there are going to be many beginners watching who won't be able to 'reverse engineer' what you did.
I have no idea what I watched.
I THOUGHT THE SAME THING. THANK YOU. HE DIDN'T EXPLAIN THE MOST IMPORTANT PART JUST RUSHED THROUGH IT.😢
you can just put the dowell in the drill chuck and the drill bit in the vice. this spins the dowell and the drill bit does not move. and not not do this stupid block thingy. drill the dowel into the bit, this is how a lathe works and how center holes are drilled.
Good point
You're right, I'm a professional carpenter and figured out what he did, which was actually a good trick. But someone who doesn't have as much experience is not going to figure out what he did because it was filmed so poorly.
You da man!
it would have been nice if you showed how you made the jig slower so it was easier to understand. I understand how you made the jig but how you got it large hole lined up with the larger hole.
Americans! Remember You only need to explain what you are going to do once!
Been doing that for years.A no brainer.
Of course clamping onto a drill press will always line the holes up, but I like how you also showed how to do it without a drill press, in case a person isn't near one.
A lot of people don’t own drill presses. this is a good method for drilling a straight hole in the centre.
@@FUUNNIIEEEbut you need a drill press to make the jig....
@@anonymous.369 no you don't. Drill the 1/4" hole, then the 1/2", and finally the 3/4". As long as the walls are parallel with each other (they should be since the smaller hole guides the larger bits) then the final hole through the dowel will be straight and centered.
Oh Christ so the secret to dill a hole perfect down the center is to drill a hole perfect down the center. Brilliant!
You might check your red cutting edges on your drawing. They are shown on the trailing edge of a right hand drill bit.
Great tip ! Thank you
But how due you ensure the hole in the block is perpendicular/ true ?
If someone needs to drill a hole on one end of a 3-foot-long dowel, how are they going to use a drill press to accomplish that?
You solved my problem thanks. It's easy when you know how.
Thank you so much. That was excellent!
Thats all well and good. But I need to drill a .5mm hole into the end of a 1/4 in. dowel?
nice like that one
That is a very useful tip. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for watching
wow did you save my bacon ,
twist drills wander. the smaller the drill the more it can wander. Doesn't matter if you started with a guide bushing. They will wander in highly homogeneous material and wood is definitely not homogeneous. The best way to prevent wander in wood is with a forstner bit or a brad.
The title of the video isn't how to make a larger hole down the center given an existing perfectly centered smaller hole, so unless I'm really stupid I haven't learned how to make an initial hole straight down the center of a dowel. Was the point simply to use a small bit and a drill press or is there some special technique involved? .. which was what I was looking for.
Oh wow, drill a pilot hole. What a new revelation.
Wanna make a hole on 7 ft for my traditional blowpipe project.
Very useful,excellent.
Thank you.
Good tip. Similar to the way machinists drill a repeatable center hole in round stock
I actually spent 4 years as a machinist to pay for college in a small shop locally here in CT. Thanks for watching.
my hero. thank you. i was having some serious "le grill" moments
Where's the link for sharpening?
...I use a fender washer to mark the center...
Here is a man who has never worked in pressured workshops on piece rate wages.
Does anyone know how to drill a hole horizontally “Straight “ through a crooked log standing vertically???
Maybe this kind of block, but it would have to be made perpendicular on a drill press. That'll get your horizontal, but lateral is another story.
OK but yoh got to drill hole in the template perfect first and what if you using different with dowells.
Maybe my video skipped, because I failed to see your use of two different sizes of Forstner buts to drill your block. Clamping the dowel on a vise will leave marks as it crushes the wood.
I suggest you study up on “depth of field” of your camera lens. Make your objects look in focus to your audience.
how do you make sure the hole in the jig is straight?
It doesn't have to be. That's his point. The 1/4" hole goes straight through, then the 1/2" follows that hole concentrically, and then the same with the 3/4" through the 1/2" hole, all concentrically aligned, whether perpendicular to the block or not.
I tried this freehand and with a drill press, the drill kept wandering off center. Perhaps it works for most, but not for me.
I don't need a hole in my dowels,
I need punch centers for the lathe
spurs, the trouble with wooden
dowels, is that even though you
have the punch flat ,dead center,
it will wonder just like a drill bit,
not because of the design of either,
but because of the stubborn grain
in the wood that will push the
center punch or bit to the weakest
part of the dowel end, and be
off center, like 50 t0 70% of the time.
This method in the video would work
I'm sure, it's a good idea/concept.
If any of you are going to try this, I
think you need to get a Forstner bit
the exact size of the dowel diameter,
and go from there, the smaller bit,
lol, may wonder on you, but a drill
guide might help. You may have to
do more than one 'rig' to get it right.
Nice poem
@@jacobramirez4894
I could only imagine what
you're capable of producing
and my bet is that that is
where your work lives. 😄
How do I make such a block? All I have is a hand drill
Idea is great but you missed showing the actual drilling of the most important part.
Simple and diabolically clever! Uses the cutting action of twist drills to make a quick, accurate drilling jig. Going to try it right now.
Update: drilled perfectly centered holes in three 5/8" diameter wooden dowels that were 1" long. His method is simple and works great.
Great Idea. Where's the instruction for drilling the guide?
How about a video on how to make the template?
How to drill a perfect hole without using a drill press. Step 1, get a drill press…
hello will this work drilling a 5/8" dia. hole in a 2" dia. x 19" long wood dowel?
What if you wanted to drill a 25mm hole through a turning about 200mm long
Unless I'm missing something, I would say the same way, only with a long bit.
There is a simpler way without any jigs. Just keep the drill bit stationary and rotate the dowel instead. This is easier on the lathe, but I suppose can still be done on drill press assuming the dowel is not too long and fits in the chuck.
How do you manage if, like me, you don't have a lathé?
But I want the hole to go the length of the dowel? How do I do that? Shalom you're loved 💔
This was the most difficult instructional video I ever watched. I'm not the sharpest tool (no pun intended), I can admit that, but holy shit was I lost watching this.
same
@@kbi4739 No Insult intended, but im glad I'm not alone as not the sharpest tool. I needed a 1/2" hole through a 1" dowel, 6" Deep. I just got a 1 1/2" Pole, Got the hole as close as I could, put it on my bench grinding arbor and sanded it down to 1". It was close enough
I actually 3d printed a jig using this idea that worked perfectly.
@@kbi4739 For 1 size dowel tho right? What if you have different thickness
@@J.T.19134 would require a different print!
This would have been a lot clearer if you had made a jig purposely off-angle, because it seems a lot of people aren't getting the trick.
A larger bit will follow a pilot hole quite nicely, so you can always drill a larger hole perfectly on top of a pilot hole, regardless of its angle to the larger block of wood. So when you take that jig in reverse, and stick a dowel into the larger hole, the smaller hole will still be perfect on center, as long as you didn't drill the larger hole all the way through and destroy it. Even if the hole is 32.67734578 degrees off vertical.
This fellow is ingenious. But, make sure to:.1) Use stacked layers of plywood (glued or screwed together) to make the guide, as wood grains may make it harder to keep the bit straight. 2) Use a drill guide with a drill bit the same size as the one needed for the hole in the dowel. This hole must go through the entire piece. The drill guide will ensure that the hole goes straight (you can check by putting center marks on both sides and verifying that the hole indeed hits the opposite mark when it comes out). 3) on the opposite side drill to a desired depth using bits of increasingly larger diameter up to the diameter of the dowel. This will produce the housing for the dowel. 4) After inserting the dowel in this hole (and possibly securing it with a small lateral screw in the guide), drill from the opposite side with the original bit. Using this method, I was able to drill longitudinally through a 3/16 inch steel screw using only a hand held drill and drill guide.
I ! GOT !! CONFUSED !! WITH ! WATCHING ! THE ! JOE ! PIE !! MANN !! SHOW !! OF ! WOODWORKING ! HERE !!
Post should read "in line"
Geez, that could have (should have) been done in a 1 minute video. 🤯
you didn't show the important part of creating the template...it just F'forwarded through.