Honeywell Home Water Heater Control Reset after 7-Flashes Error Code
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2022
- How I reset my Honeywell (Resideo) Home Water Heater Gas Control Valve When It Failed With 7-Flashes Error Code.
-Failure indicated "Gas Control or Valve Failure"
-Valve: Honeywell (Resideo) WV8840C1513
-Water Heater: Rheem XG38S06EN36U0 mfg date: 2014 
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Thank you kind sir!!! I just performed these steps and my water heater is working again
Man you save my life. I was ready to give up and call a tech. Thanks for the tutorial.
I was just about to give up. But I started finagling with what you suggested and eventually got it working. Thank you for taking the time to do this!
Good god man you saved me hundreds! Couldn't believe my eyes, it kicked on without pressing the ignition button! Genius!
Excellent video. It took me exactly 1:20 to diagnose my problem and correct it. I am very grateful.
This has performed exactly as desired ruclips.net/user/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 . Basically, instant hot water instead of waiting up to two minutes as it was before. I have had this installed almost exactly one year now and just replaced the anode which is pictured. I pulled it out at six months and cleaned the heating element and removed debris. I would recommend a cleaning every six months and an anode replacement yearly. A mild citric acid and water solution soak really helps clean the heating element and tank. It must be fully disassembled to do the cleaning and that is not difficult but could have been made easier with a couple of design changes but no big deal.
I have the same Honeywell Gas Control valve. Years ago after a couple years since install of my water heater, I got the 7 blink code error. BTW my WH was dead cold with no pilot flame. As I searched the Internet for a solution. I called Rheem Customer Support, they sent me a new controller under warranty. In the mean time (about two weeks) before the replacement arrived. I tried to reset the controller after watching another video on RUclips with the same issue. You first remove all of the wires connected to the front of the controller, igniter and Thermopile. There is screw to remove then the front cover (white) comes off with the circuit board. Next you rub a balled up piece of aluminum along the back on the pins sticking out of the circuit board. This discharges a capacitor on the opposite side. I don’t know which one exactly as did not separate the board from the cover. After doing so. Reinstall the cover to the gas controller, and re light the pilot light. Then set the temp setting. Mine seems to not like the normal Hot setting, but setting A is OK. After receiving the replacement gas control valve, I never installed it since it was working fine and never had the error again. I kept the replacement for the future just in case it fails again. BTW the GCV sells for around $150 if you had to buy one.
Thanks, that is very useful. Mine hickupped while away on a long weekend (turned it down to VACation)... came home, and loonnng RED light ! No pilot. Tried all temps... now NO LIGHT at all !!! Tried to ignite Pilot... Nothin :( A U-Tube guy said to hold Pilot knob down for a Long Time (2-3 min) and Spark it every 5 seconds... when I was about to call it quits, the pilot flame came on, and the Blue light blinks again :D - - So, DONT give up yet (tough when the spouse is irritated)...
Worked perfect for me. I only needed to move to the very hot and hot and then back to the original position, and it went from 7 blips to the 1. Thank you!
The basic process worked. I did a little modification. Completely turned it off and waited a few minutes or until the light went completely off. Then did the process that you provided and turned it off. Then depressed pilot and and got it lit. It worked great but there is a basic problem with the water heater and new parts have been sent by Rheem. Was just trying to get a few more showers out of it while waiting for the repair person to install parts.
After I replaced the heating chamber sensor and reignited, then I experienced a jammed dial knob at pilot position. I had to open the control gas valve box with remove one screw to release the rotating dial knob. After that I reignited and experienced 7 flashes error. I watched your clip and problem solved. It went from red flashes to blue flash in the “very hot” position while waiting after I have tried very hot, hot and pilot positions as presented in your clip. Thank you very much!
Wow, it worked for me. My pilot light would not come on and it was frustrating as hell because I I would go through the normal steps, but nothing would happen the pilot light come on. I tried the steps the first time I did not go back to hot, but I stopped on pilot. It didn't work so I just followed the steps as instructed and behold it work. Thank you so much.
First step and worked first try! Thank you!
You are my hero! You got me to the promised land in 90 seconds. My wife thanks you as well!
Thank you. I've had 3 of these valves go bad in the last 2 years. So irritating.
I can't believe that worked! Thank you!!
It worked! Thank You Dave
Thanks for this, I replaced my igniter but had the 7 blinks until I did this.
One comment - I have read that this controller is way more flaky if you operate your water heater at a temperature above the HOT setting. I used to run mine between A and B for many years until I read this. I now run it on HOT and the water temperature is plenty hot for us. It did seem to correlate with reduced frequency of losing the pilot.
I experienced the same thing with setting above “hot”, the system shut off more often. Setting at “hot” seems to be the optimal position.
Fantastic video. I could not afford any repairs right now.
You just saved me $200. Thanks! 👊
Thank you so much! Worked perfectly.
thanks, helped right away!
I am confused... When I get 7 flashes, the flame is extinguished, so how does it come on when you start this procedure and put it on high? Or you lit the pilot first?
The pilot is lit the whole time, the problem is with the control board not signaling the gas valve to open up.
The procedure worked great for me one the first time
call the phone number on the tank and talk to manufacturer. your heater may still be under warranty. mine was and all parts were sent for free.
Same here, but I found a temporary solution while waiting for the part to arrive. It took two weeks for the part to arrive. In the mean time I was able to reset my Gas Controller and now I have a spare part if it ever fails.
It worked! Thank You.
Terrific! Glad for your success.
Hopefully that it resets my strange issue... It acts like it's burning out for to a flame up, but out tank is entirely clean!
We have had no error lights at all, but it just turns off due to the little button between the red and white wires going to the bottom of the heater... It's a white ceramic looking fixture mounted to the bottom of the heater that hole the button.
It fires fine, but it just throws the bottom some time later. IDK
Thanks for the information, it's very hard to find info like this on secretive things on common appliances!
worked, thank you!
Great job
Thank you!!
It worked .I am a fan😊
Sorry had a question. When you started you had the pilot on?
My code 7 problem was fixed by cleaning the thermocoupler. Had cold water, checked 12 year old Rheem water heater in an outdoor enclosure one mile from the ocean, it was completely off, no lights. Restarted, now showing the code 7. Tried the many ‘fixes, tin foil to circuit board, battery clicking valves and finally this reset procedure several times. Each ‘fix’ resulted in the same scenario, it would start, run, still showing code 7 then after a few minutes show normal operation code of one light every 3 seconds. This would last until the next day when I would find it completely shut off again, no lights. Almost bought a new controller, then thought about buying a new thermocoupler, finally decided to just remove the burner assembly and clean everything up like shiny new. Reassembled, started up, code shows normal operation and it has been fine ever since. So apparently code 7 will also appear if the pilot doesn’t stay lit for whatever reason, mine apparently being the assembly was just dirty. Note: this is my second Rheem water heater. First lasted 12 years, got drenched in a storm and was never the same. This unit (in a much better outdoor enclosure) shows no rust inside burner area and still no sediments on flushing. When I finally have to replace it with a the new one it will most likely be another Rheem!
Good fix!
Thank you! Worked!
Thanks-It worked
That worked! Thank you!
Thanks worked perfect for me
Excellent video! Instant solution!
Crazy this actually fixed my water heater lmao nice
Thanks for the clear, instructive video! Do you know what the 3 settings, A, B & C are for? Thanks!
Those are just intermediate temperature settings between Hot and Very Hot
I believe they are increments of 10 degrees F, starting from 120F to 160F.
Thank you ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Good information
I have same problems
I shut off the system for 10 minutes at off position
Set it to pilot position after 10 minutes
Ignite 5 to 6 times
When Light start to flash hold the knob for 10 seconds than set the temperature to very hot for 10 minutes than set as hot position
Now it’s working good
Thank you for good information
Couple things to understand which I'm not sure the author of this video did.
1. The "thermopile" (aka thermocouple) is a bi-metal device at the pilot that produces a voltage to the thermostat gas valve when it is heated by the pilot flame. It is a safety device. The thermostat valve cannot turn the gas on to the burner if it does to detect voltage from the thermocouple, indicating that the pilot is lit. All gas appliances with pilots (except the top burners on stoves) must have thermocouples. That is why you have to hold a button (or in this case, the knob) down when lighting the pilot - it keep the pilot manually on until the thermocouple heats enough to take over.
2. On this particular "Whirlpool" HW heater, the other function of the thermocouple is to provide power to the thermostat/control valve circuit board, since it is an electronic, not mechanical design. I guess that is why they call it a "thermopile" ("pile" means "battery").
3. Since the control valve gets its power only from the thermopile, if you see the light flashing at all, the pilot is lit. So if you don't see any flashing, light the pilot per the instructions on the sticker on the tank.
Now this is what I did:
1. Discovered barely warm water at the tap.
1. Went downstairs and discovered no flashing - the pilot went out. This has happened before so I verified that the over-temperature burner switch (below and to the right of the control valve) had not tripped and re-lit the pilot. But I got 7 flashes (3 sec) 7 flashes... instead of the normal 1 flash every 3 seconds. I then turned it to "A" and the burner lit, but shut off after jsut a minute.
2. I tuned the knob to to off. Waited a few minutes, re-lit the pilot - same result as above. Turned the knob to off.
3. Found this video. Re-lit the pilot and followed the procedure. Turned the knob to "very hot": burner started, (10 sec) "hot" (10 sec): burner still on, then "pilot" burner goes off. But still 7 flashes (pilot stays lit).
4. Turned the knob back to very hot. Burner re-started. Kept it on very hot and the burner stayed on. After about 5 minutes, it reverted from the 7 flashes to the normal single flash every 3 seconds.
5. Turned it back to "A" - my normal setting.
Working for now.
Update. After 2 days normal operation, the pilot went back out. Restarted, had 7 flashes, went through the reset procedure, including leaving on "very hot" for a few minutes. Back to normal operation. Will have to buy a new controller (or a whole new hot water heater).
@@franklittle8124 I’m going through this right now do you have any updates?
My aunt has a old Kenmore water heater. She called me to take a look at it. I noticed the pilot was lit but was not firing up to heat water when it was called for. So I turned it up to the max setting and it fired right up. Then I turned it back to normal or the second Hot setting. It did not have a Honeywell GCV, and had a different cover. As for now that’s what she does until the WH completely fails.
I did the same sequence at first for 10 sec at each position: very hot, hot, and pilot. Then returned the dial to “very hot” position and waiting for 3-5 min, the red flashes automatically turned to blue flash and worked just fine.
By golly it worked.
This worked for me with Rheem water heater. Thank you. Is there a potential problem that needs to be fixed so it doesn't happen again?
Thanks for uploading this video
I was about to try something way more complicated I saw on YT from another content creator when I came across your video. Same issue, exact same results. Now, its working normal. The only difference is that I am a renter, should I still notify my landlord of the issue?
These things are built to be very reliable - In my opinion, if the system is indicating normal operation, it's nothing to worry about.
Mine acted the same as yours. Odd, but I'll take it! 😊
So I just brought a brand new control unit and it just did the same thing as the old 7 flashes so I'm kind of at an end as to what could be the problem
I see another UTube guy mention to short out the back of the circuit board with aluminum foil (capacitors static overcharged). Then save the spare one for another crisis.
@@vickiszem actually the box was fine it was the thermal coupler that was the issue I replaced that and it's worked fine since then.
I find that the 7-flashes Error code (from a new Insert data) means that the system is in OFF mode... then I see NO Pilot light ! Used another user to HOLD Pilot Lighter more than a minute, igniting every 5 seconds... WHALLA - pilot light came on, and after a few minutes, Blue LED back on again... (this was after being on Vacation mode, pilot light went out)
The only thing I am confused about is your light is still flashing red indicating it still does not work? Perhaps, I am missing something.
The system flashes once about every 20 seconds under normal operation indicating "Normal Operation"
Mine hickupped while away on a long weekend (turned it down to VACation)... came home, and loonnng RED light ! No pilot. Tried all temps... now NO LIGHT at all !!! Tried to ignite Pilot... Nothin :( A U-Tube guy said to hold Pilot knob down for a Long Time (2-3 min) and Spark it every 5 seconds... when I was about to call it quits, the pilot flame came on, and the Blue light blinks again :D - - So, DONT give up yet (tough when the spouse is irritated)...
I had a 7 flash code. I would reset it and works for few hours and trips again on same code.
Rheem sent me the whole guts under warranty plus the controller and valve.
The code says bad controller or valve. I replaced both and nothing changed. I replaced everything else after that including the burner assembly. So far so good. So this 7 code is not exactly what they say.
also the new valve khmer the same as the old 15 ohms.
I am not sure what caused the code
I'm not sure what this procedure is all about. Every time my pilot goes out I end up getting the 7 flashes once the pilot flame heats up the thermopile. I set the water temp and the main burner comes on, and after a short time the 7 flashes always returns to the normal flashing state. This happens every time when my pilot goes out. Now if it is flashing normally and I turn the valve controller to OFF, then do a normal startup, it will not flash 7 times but will start normally.
For me, it seems the pilot goes out when I have my garage door and back door to the garage open on windy days, or just if it is very windy and the garage is closed, like I'm getting some significant backdraft through the vent. I was having my pilot go out frequently, and I thought maybe there was a bad connection on the circuit board, and indeed the act of disassembling the internals and removing and re-inserting the circuit board seemed to give a marked improvement (my pilot did not go out for quite a few months after I did that).
Previously the solution was to wait 2 hours or more for the control board to fully reset. Then someone came up with Idea to rub a piece of balled aluminum foil on the back of the circuit board. This discharges a capacitor on the board fully resetting the board. I wish I could of identified which pins needed to be shorted but that would require removing the circuit board from the cover. The aluminum ball is a quick way to discharge the capacitor powering the error code.
@@joelmonleon6471 I guess my point was that I never need to 'do anything' to get mine started again. I just restart it like normal, and then within a few minutes of the burner coming on it switches to the normal flashing code.
After if left on pilot the light stayed on
I had to do this 6 times before it worked. I even called tech support after 5th time to see if there was diff reset. My water heater was 19 days old when the valve gave 7 blink. Crappy Rheem company put in order for new valve. I tried one more time after off phone and it instantly reset. Not sure what the difference was. Maybe you have to wait 5 min between attempts?
4th prob in 19days with Rheem. Anode PTFE not in proper place caused leaking. Gas valves loose. Caused gas to expel at control board. Now this.
Have to fight with billing to cover $300 for plumber. If you are told they only cover $150 to $250 ask to speak with supervisor. They can up the amount. Be sure to add tax to total requested. I didn't and am on hook for that, too.
Terrible quality control and the warranty is full if hoops to jump through.
It's out again after new valve install!!Can't even get burner up. Lucky to get it to blink 7 when it does. On a Fri night at 11pm
Just wonderful!!
This works 😭😭😭
why is red flashing ?
Read the cover of the unit to understand what the codes mean. The sequence of flashes tell you the name current state. Under normal conditions the LED flashes periodically.
Worked the second time! Only video on RUclips that worked for me. THANK YOU 🙏
Them valves are trash compared to the metal ones so i wouldnt waste my time resetting it
Worked!!! Thanks