The 5-cut method made easy | Squaring a Table Saw Cross-Cut Sled in 5 minutes
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
- Check out the simple 5 cut method table saw sled calculator:
bit.ly/5-cut-calculator
In this video, I will show you the easiest way to do the 5-cut method for squaring up your table saw crosscut sled fence. Squareness is so important for the crosscut sled fence because it determines the accuracy of your layout, cutting, and assemblies in woodworking. Materials on the 5-cut method haven't been user-friendly in the past, which is why I've built this simple calculator that I can use on my phone in the shop. It gives me perfect 5 cut method results every time.
I created this calculator with Coda, which is like a supercharged Google Doc, Google Sheet, and app making program wrapped up into one web-based tool.
⏳ Timestamps
0:00 - Introduction
0:32 - Building the table saw crosscut sled
1:18 - The downside of the 5-cut method
1:45 - Attaching the front fence
1:59 - Attaching the rear fence
2:22 - The 5-cut method explained
2:59 - Calculating the error
3:10 - Using the 5-cut method calculator
3:36 - Micro-adjusting the fence
4:18 - Second 5-cut method + reading
4:26 - Securing the rear fence
Check out the simple 5 cut method table saw sled calculator:
bit.ly/5-cut-calculator
🛠️ Tools and materials
▸ UHMW miter bar runners: amzn.to/3tsen3I
▸ Digital calipers: amzn.to/36YJJrp
▸ Feeler gauges (similar): amzn.to/3hzUZwo
▸ Bosch 12V MAX Drill/Driver combo: amzn.to/3C5YhB3
▸ SawStop 1.75-HP Contractor Saw: amzn.to/3db9cv3
▸ Bosch Router: amzn.to/2DbmL1l
▸ Zetsaw Japanese Pull Saws: amzn.to/2ZwJMTS
▸ More tools: bit.ly/bikecity-shop
Disclosure: Links to tools and material are affiliate links. Any purchases made using these links will help support this channel at no additional cost to you. We really appreciate your support!
👋 Who I am
I am Brian, a content creator and founder of Bike City Woodworks. I love learning about woodworking and enjoy sharing my knowledge in my spare time.
🚲 Support Bike City Woodworks
▸ Subscribe to my channel! | bit.ly/BikeCitySub
▸ My website | bit.ly/bikecity-kumiko-kit
▸ Instagram | / bikecitywoodworks
🎶 Music in this video
▸ Don't Talk to Me That Way - Victor Lundberg 
Хобби
Check out my second video with some tips and tricks for the 5-cut method: ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
You all gave me some great feedback in the comments, so I decided to test a few things out.
Great calculator.
Anyone watching just be aware that if you cut with your material located on the left of the blade, the instruction to move the fence forward of back according to a positive or negative result is reversed.
Appreciate that! I will be adding a feature to the calculator soon, allowing you to select right or left.
i cut on the left side too and came to this same realization after moving the fence twice.
Gotta say thank you. Built a new sled the other and was dreading setting the fence. Stumbled on your calculater and gave it a shot. First adjustment - .0428 out. Second test - .005 out. Last adjustment - 0 adjustment required! I have never built a sled to a tolerance of 0! Thank you!
So awesome to hear! Glad it was helpful.
This is awesome man! I’ve used William ng’s video in the passed, but often get myself in a muddle?! I’ll be using this tomorrow for my new sled..great work and thanks! :)
My cross cut sled definitely needs a tuneup. Can’t wait to try your method. Thanks for posting. 👍👍
First time watching one of your videos. I can't tell you how many 5 cut videos I've watched and something was missing. watching yours and everything came together. Thank you! I think it was your use of a feeler gauge for some reason opened my eyes. Will check out your channel
My sled was in desperate need of a tuneup. This worked perfectly. Thanks so much for posting the video a sharing the calculator. 👍👍
Thanks for your video and calculator. I was able to get within a couple of thousands.
This is an excellent video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the calculator.. made it much easier!!
I love your video. I am rebuilding my sled soon and appreciate the calculator. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Have watched several of these “how to square a crosscut sledge” videos and I have to say this is the BEST one I’ve seen , much easier to follow and very well explained
So THANK YOU 👏🏻👍🏻
Wow, thank you!
For my three crosscut sleds I’ve always taken my numbers written out on paper and solve with a calculator. It is a great way to get the sled accurate but one of my sleds “moved” over time, didn’t make it heavy enough. The plastic runners are a good upgrade that you can also get by cutting up an old large plastic kitchen cutting board. My wife thought I was thinking of her when I kept buying new cutting boards.
Dude, this video and calculator are awesome. I just built my first cross cut sled and this made the adjustment really clear. thank you
Woohoo! Glad to hear it. Anything you’d like to see me cover in future videos?
Thank you for including the calculator with your video. I like some of your other viewers have watched several other videos about this but yours is the most helpful 👍👍👍👍
Appreciate the feedback!
Wow. Thanks for the calculator! This made it so much easier!
Great to hear :)
best video out there for the 5 cut method !
Great video! To the point and simple! I will have to check out your calculator!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks man...This worked out great.
For others that want to do this, a few tips. Something I learned. The pivot screw needs to be snug but not too tight as it will distort the fence or the bottom plate when you adjust it. Also when making the cuts on the test piece, push on the sled only where the screw locations are, or again you can distort the fence and or the base which will screw up the cuts and input dimensions. After doing it 3 or 4 times I realized what was happening and followed the above procedure and got it perfect under a thousandth. It's also important that the 2 sides of the fence be square to each other, and absolutely straight for the best results.. I did this with a jointer but it can be done on the table saw being sure that your blade is perfectly square to the table saw top. This is pretty critical, that the fence be straight and 2 square faces. Also be absolutely sure to predrill all your holes. If you don't the screw will shift the fence. That's all I got.
Great advice, thanks for sharing!
Greatest one I’ve found
Novice here. Bought a cheap used GMC 206mm blade table saw (yeah I know). I have spent a lot of time/money trying to get good parallel and 90 degree cuts .... for very basic projects. Will use this app tomorrow to finish a cheap sled. Thanks for this.
A great video on this topic, mate.
Thank you.🤘
Thanks!
Thanks. The calculator site is awesome!!
Glad you like it!
Dialed in to .001 in just 3 adjustments with the calculator. Awesome tool. Thanks for making it available.
Great to hear!
Thanks. I knew the method, but the calculator made it so much easier.
Glad it helped!
great video on the 5-cut method.....and the calculator is awesome! i will definitely be using it next time.
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing stuff, and I'm very grateful for this calculator you developed. Simple, intuitive, straight to the point, and incredibly helpful for those of us without the time or attention span to watch long detailed videos on this.
Your channel has no right to have less than, at the very least, 500k subscribers, and I'm doing my part to fix that! Thanks!
Appreciate it!
Great video, great calculator, 2 thumbs up!
Thank you! Cheers!
Cheers mate, big help. Champion!👍
No problem 👍
Brilliant video, and the online tool is fantastic. Easy subscription.
Thanks for the sub!
This was very helpful. Thanks!
No problem, glad to hear it was helpful!
What a great video and calculator method for squaring my saw.
I have a DeWalt job site saw and the crosscut results in a lot of plat in the cut.
I built my sled exactly like instructed in your video and after (1) adjustment and correction of .012…, my result is now .0005”…. This is a great video, very well presented, and super helpful….. Great Job! LIKED & SUBSCRIBED!
Great to hear! Glad it was helpful.
great video, and the calculator worked great. easy to do
Glad it helped!
I just added some T track and a new rear fence to my C sled, and the new fence was way off. Your calculator + feeler gauges worked like a champ. Thanks!
That’s awesome to hear! Glad it worked.
I used your method and calculator today. I spent a lot of time with my first alignment using my square to the saw blade. My first results was 0.0004. So I re-executed the process and came up with the same results so I screwed the fence down where it is.
Thank you so much for your video and your great calculator. You time is greatly appreciated.
I appreciate the comment - really glad this tool was helpful!
Great video & app. Thanks!
And Go Aggies!!!
Go Ags :)
I'll be asking about the USHW runners for the shop! Great idea
Thanks Emily! They’re really amazing.
Thanks - put that on my phone.
Oh yeah!!!
Subscribed!!!!!
Thanks!
I definitely will have to give this a try, I recently built a kumiko jig and skipped 4 of the cuts, but still using a micrometer and feeler gauges to get everything in place.
Thanks! Really appreciate the feedback. Please let me know how it goes!
The calculator is super easy to use, thanks for making it. I did notice though, the pivot is backwards, it was telling me to pivot away when I should have been pivoting forward. Other than that it's spot on
So it tends to matter what side of the blade you’re cutting on. I tested that in my second video on this subject on my channel!
Bro that worked perfect just made my first sled with micro jig zeroplay rails and after one adjustment I had it to perfect
Glad to hear it!
great coverage in a short time!
Thank you! Really appreciate the feedback. Anything I could improve?
@@BikeCityWoodworks not specifically about this squaring process, but on my sled the rear fence is tall and has a knockout/arch large enough to leave the guard on in use. I’ve not seen this in other designs, but think it’s an asset to any sled to be able to leave the guard on during use.
That's a fantastic idea! Do you have really tall fences then so the whole guard can pass through?
@@BikeCityWoodworks exactly. I sent a picture via DM on IG
To calculate more accurately, adjust the sample’s length to reflect the distance between the actual points where the width was measured by the callipers. For this application it’s best to have the calliper jaws closer to perpendicular to the workpiece when measuring width, otherwise it’s difficult to know at what point on the jaws the piece is actually registering. The depth of the jaws is not insignificant and could skew the effective workpiece length.
Excellent video on the 5 cut method! Covers everything you need to know in less than 5 minutes which is very impressive.
Thanks Sean! Anything I could have explained better?
The calculator and feeler gage make ALL the difference. Now bookmarked.
So glad to hear it’s helpful, Mark!
Got mine sled to 0.0004 accuracy. Took 4 tries. Much thx for the online calc!
Glad to hear!
I had the hardest time getting this to work. I think I’m realizing my problem was I was trimming the right side of the piece and rotating clockwise. This cuts the left and rotates counterclockwise. I think this made the calculators suggestions opposite. It took me a while to realize this.
Thanks for the honest feedback! Is there anything I could do to make that part more clear?
@@BikeCityWoodworks if it isnt noted in the calculator, it would have been helpful to see that important disclaimer there.
Yeah, I had the same problem. If you cut on the right and rotate clockwise, the suggested fence correction is backwards.
Finally got it sorted out after seeing your comment.
I had the same problem. Thanks for pointing this out.
@@BikeCityWoodworks yeah, would love to see a note about this in the calculator. if i hadn't seen the above comment i would have messed this up as well. thank you for putting this together!
It took me 4 or 5 times to get it done. At first, when I put into the calculator what side the pivot point was, I thought it was the side that had the fixed screw, opposite the side of the fence that you were moving, but my cuts got worse. So I put it on the left side instead of the right side. When I did that, I got to .002 of an inch. Thank you very much for putting this together for everyone and making it free to use!
A great calculator and well explained! I was just wondering if I can use this on my miter saw which has a one piece fence?
Great question - I think so!
Thanks for the calculator and the guide. It’s a great script!
However, after multiple attempts I found that the end adjustment calculation could only get me to about .003” Seems to do with the length from the pivot point.
How I got within .0008” was using the actual length of the 5th cut (in my case it was 12 3/8”) vs 22”. Then applying that adjustment number to the adjustment length point at 22”
Doing this gave me the same result/adjustment as compared to doing the actual Ng’s calculation method.
Hmm, interesting, so you were putting 22" into the length of the 5th cut?
"Length of distance from pivot screw to correction" I have no idea what this means. Is this the distance from the pivot screw to the kerf, the far edge of the sled or something else?
I will definitely clarify that in a video in the next few days. I know it wasn’t that clear 😅
How would this work for a sled that is offset to one side, like not completely even amount of the sled base on both sides? For example I I am making my sled so they there is more space on the left side than the right because I can cut longer pieces to the left whereas I’m limited to the length that I can cut on the right just because of the way my shop is setup. So the screws on either end of my sled aren’t the same distance from the cut line. Thanks for any advice on that.
Scott, I actually brought your question up in a Q&A video! ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
Thanks for putting together the calculator. I dialed in my crosscut sled to a .004" tolerance, which is fine for my purposes. However I must point out that the metric version is off. I tried a few times to dial in my fence using your calculator, but the "correction amount" was very off, as in 11-16mm (equivalent of roughly 1/2"!) while the same piece of wood remeasured in imperial was in the thousands of an inch tolerance neighborhood. Not sure if you got a decimal point off in the code or something? Otherwise great video and great (inches) calculator!
Also, tip for everyone: Don't use plywood for the temporary pointed "calibration board" that you clamp down in front of the fence. The plys are too soft and compress/break at the tip, compromising your measurement. Better to use hardwood.
Tools used: Sawstop 36" Contractor Saw; 'igaging" brand digital calipers from Rockler. Pivot point was in the 25" neighborhood.
The metric value is too great by a factor of 25.4. This is because a "metric conversion" has been done on the final result. In reality, there is no need for any conversion and no need for selecting between Imperial or Metric. This is because the formula is just ratios. The simple solution - until the calculator is fixed - is to select "Inches" no matter whether you are using inches, millimetres or cubits. The units for input and output will then always match.
@@idontwantachannel3091 Thanks great insights. Didn't realize you could input metric in the inches mode. Good hack! But still more room for user error;) But yea agreed I would just stick to inches on the calculator until/if it's fixed.
@@idontwantachannel3091 Thank you! I will attempt to update this!
Can somehow explain what you mean with the 22inches? Would be so helpful
Hey Alex, thanks for the feedback! I’ll try to create a short video in the near future to explain this!
Hi, please can any one explain 4. Length of distance from pivot screw to correction in the calculator?
Does this mean distance from pivot screw to the end of fence or the other screw in the fence in the opposite side.
Or does this mean from the pivot screw to the cutting line of the table saw blade?
Or is this just the length of the sled / fence?
Thanks.
Hey Jim, you weren't the only one with this question, so I made a video answering this question (amongst a couple others)! ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
Is the pivot point the length of the fence? Having a hard time understanding this. Or is the length of the pivot screw to the end of the opposite side of the fence?
From the pivot screw to long end of the fence, or option 2 in your question 👍
I enjoyed the video but have a 'newbie' question.. what is the pivot screw.. did not put my saw together. Purchased as is. Your help would be appreciated.-- after watching the video again I now understand but might need to be made more clear for others..
finally is there an apple app and if so what is the name. Can't find it with my searching.
The pivot screw is the screw in the fence that you don't remove.
There isn't an apple app for this quite yet; something I can consider though!
Can we apply this directly to a mft table with a track saw hinge?
You can! You may need to think a bit about the adjustment direction though, since that setup is essentially an upside down table saw setup. So be careful with the direction you adjust!
How did you calculate the distance from the pivot screw to the correction?
You weren't the only one with this question, so I made a video answering this question (amongst a couple others)! ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
In Ng's video he does not rotate the piece to take the slice. By rotating to take the slice (5th cut) are you not compounding the error one too many times?
Yes, and that’s the point of this exercise 👍
when doing the 5 cut method, does it make a difference which side of the blade you cut on?
If I understand correctly, you mean placing the board on either the right or the left side? It should work on both, I think!
I actually tested this question in a Q&A video here! ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
2:39 into the video, and I just caught something. You're cutting on the opposite side of the blade from every other 5-cut video I've seen. However, your pivot point is on the same side you're cutting vs. opposite side. I wonder if that matters.
Oh interesting, I just tend to cut toward the right of the blade. In my other video, Answering your questions about the five-cut method | Woodworking Tips
ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html, I mention that cutting on the opposite side of the blade does in fact produce different results!
what's this "screw" distance part?
A couple folks asked the same thing and I decided to make a video on it ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
I would love to use this but can anyone explain to me what the distance to the pivot screw means?
You weren't the only one with this question, so I made a video answering this question (amongst a couple others)! ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
The calculator is in inches. If I plug in metric numbers, it should work too, right? If all inputs are mm, the formula should still work?
I think I already added a toggle for metric - did you not see one?
@@BikeCityWoodworks I do now, thanks.
If your fence is in the front of the sled, would you reverse the correction amount?
Yes, that's correct!
How am I measuring from the pivot point? I don’t understand that part
I got this question quite a bit, so I made a separate video on this and other common questions. ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
Very confused of “the pivot screw” and how this relates to 22”.
Are you just pulling a number out of the air - 22 in this case - and only using this as your reference on the back wall to do your adjustments against to move back or forth? It has nothing to do with the actual two screws we’ve put into this back fence up to now?
Also confused how you mark the pivot screw point at “right”, yet it is on the left of the blade from the operator’s standpoint
Hey zach, thanks for the questions! The number - 22” - is chosen based on my sled, meaning I chose a length that was long in order to get a clearer adjustment thickness and short enough that it would be still in the bounds of the fence. Here’s an analogy for why you want this length nearly as long as possible: you’re walking in a straight line and make a 1-degree directional change. In two steps it’s barely discernible, but over the course of 1mile, you’re now off your original course by hundreds of feet. Much easier to get an accurate measurement at a longer distance.
As for the pivot point, my pivot screw is on the operator’s right. The pivot point is the point that only rotates - the correction point is the opposite end that moves both rotationally and in distance. Does that make sense?
22 wasthe distance in inches between the 2 screws in the fence: the pivot screw on one side and the screw you initially fasten on the other side. Necessary to get this number to "solve" the equation.
Zach, you weren't the only one with this question, so I made a video answering it (amongst a couple others) here! ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
Can someone please explain to me what the pivot point is. Thanks.
the pivot point is the screw that you leave in the fence on one side, so that the opposite side of the fence can be pivoted forward or back. the length from the pivot point to the adjustment is the length from the screw you are pivoting around to where you will be putting the feeler guage to move the fence a small amount forward or back
You weren't the only one with this question, so I made a video answering this question (amongst a couple others)! ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
Is .002 close enough?
Short answer is that it depends. If it's 0.002 over 21" inches, it's probably close enough. If it's 0.002 over 12 inches, I would keep trying!
@@BikeCityWoodworksmeaning between the pivot point and the other screw right? Mine is 28” apart
You said a thousandth of an inch is close enough to square as to be "square." But 1/1000" at what length? If you're off 1/1000" for a 1/1000" length board, well, that's actually a 45 degree angle, right? I mean, sure I'm exaggerating to make the point. But still. I'm off by .0014, but I'm using a much bigger 5-cut board than you are. My final measuring piece is 9" and change. Is this a fair point or am I missing something? Thanks for this video, by the way! And thanks for that awesome online calculator!
Yep a totally fair point! It’s going to depend on that distance you measure to, not necessarily the board length. That distance is usually the “other end” of the fence from your pivot screw. I’d say .001” over 12” is pretty good. That’s .0048 degrees according to a rise over run calculator. Hope this helps!
One stupid question, you’re supposed to start with a perfect square piece, right?
Thanks for the video!
For the 5 cuts? Not important to be square- you just need one mostly flat side to ride on the fence for the first cut, and you’ll want to make sure every cut takes away some material.
I was thinking the same thing.
Francis, I actually brought up your question here: ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
Where calculator please?
bit.ly/5-cut-calculator
TIPS-
1) BE 100% SURE YOUR BLADE IS ALIGNED (for me a deviation of .003 was tolerable) WITH YOUR MITER SLOTS (there are countless RUclips videos on how to do this but what worked best for me was a combination square placed against inside edge of miter slot to set distance to a marked blade tooth, then rotated that tooth 180 degrees and measured deviation with automotive feeler gage)
2) THIS CALCULATOR IS BEAUTIFUL BUT ONLY WORKS IF THE WORKPIECE IS LOCATED ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BLADE (as viewed from the operators position).
AFTER EACH CUT THE WORKPIECE MUST BE ROTATED COUNTER CLOCKWISE SO THAT THE NEWLY CUT EDGE IS PLACED AGAINST THE FENCE.
Great tips! I guess I glossed over it, but yeah, the blade needs to be generally aligned to the slots. Also, I actually tested the right/left side of the blade in this video: ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html! I'm in the process of adding a note to the calculator for that.
Stupid question... what does this mean?
"Length of distance from pivot screw to correction"
Not a dumb question at all. You weren't the only one with this question, so I made a video answering this question (amongst a couple others)! ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
You talk about a calculator but I don't find any such.
Tried the calculator 8 times and not one answer was correct, I did it once manually and got to 0.07mm on the first try.
There is "definitely" something wrong with your calculator!!!!
Hey there, sorry to hear you aren't getting the result you expected. I think it's the metric equation that is broken - investigating it now!
Alright, I think I fixed it. Can you try it with your previous measurements and let me know? Thanks!
Isn't the material your cutting supposed to by on the fence.. makes no sense that your cutting the material and its sitting in the middle of your sled
What part of the video are you referring to?
if you cut on the left side of the blade your direction is wrong. This will change which is larger measurement A or B.😠
You're right! I missed that in the first video, but actually did a demo about this in the followup video: ruclips.net/video/Szwq3R8pstQ/видео.html
YOUR CALCULATOR IS WRONG !!!!! IF THE NUMBER TO MOVE IS POSITIVE THEN YOU MUST MOVE THE ARM BACKWARDS..
SAME IF NEGATIVE MOVE THE PIVOTING ARM FORWARD !!!!! BECAUSE THE FENCE IS 0 - 90 DEGREE'S FORWARD AND 90 TO 180 DEGREES BACKWARDS...
from my research it all depends which side you’re pivoting from. That’s why I have a selector to choose which side your pivot screw is on. Choosing the screw location selection opposite to the one on the fence will have the same effect that you describe.
He’s right, depending on which way it needs adjusted, you would move the fence forward or backwards. Your calculator doesn’t account for that, it always says to move it the same way based on the pivot location.
So... Adjustment = ( screw distance ) x ( ( A - B ) / ( cut length ) )
Why didn't you just say that in the beginning?
For me at least, being given the equation isn't easy. But I appreciate the feedback - I'll try to incorporate that into future calculation videos!
I hate your calculator. You’re making me crazy. 10 times
already. Better off just flipping the piece of wood and seeing if it fits properly.
I have no idea what you’re talking about.