You are very welcomed! We are happy that this video has successfully helped you with all your projects. Feel free to send any images of your completed projects through to adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au , we would love to see them.
If you're scrolling through watching paver videos make sure you take the time to watch this one if you follow this video you won't be disappointed with your finished job this is how to correctly lay pavers
@@AdbriMasonryAussecond question: I've seen builders mix cement and jointing sand and spread it all over the flat bed of sharp sand, put the slabs down, then wet the slabs for a few minutes. What do you reckon? Is it a good idea?
@@boxingcoachdz6846 Hi there, we don’t recommend mixing sand and cement to fill the gaps then watering over it. Segmental paving is designed to be semi rigid. If you fill the gaps between pavers with a cement and sand mix, this will hardened and could cause cracking within the joints. Also, when spreading cement over the top of pavers, you run the risk of the cement adhering to the surface of the pavers before getting it into the gaps. Please feel free to email marketing@adbri.com.au if you have anymore questions.
Thanks, great video. Just doing it myself for the first time. Spent nearly 3 days screeding the sand, thought I had it pretty good. Started laying pavers and they're slightly uneven, I'm having to make little adjustments to the sand on a few of the pavers. Quite frustrating but hopefully it'll turn out ok. I never get tired of watching experts like this, they make it look so easy!
Hi Tri, If you'd like to send the measurements for the stairs (height of door and intended width) as well as where you're located, I could provide some instructions and recommended blocks for stairs. Any details and images can be sent to adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au
Truly remarkable job, all your suggestions mark towards your experience that you have gained over the years....i would recommend your video for a first timer like me.....cheers bro
Depends on what sort of path you're after. We love the idea of step stone paths as they allow you to create an eye catching feature with contrasting colours, without having to get down and lay as many pavers. ruclips.net/video/JA4C1PpWtUo/видео.html
I was looking for another video about a completely different subject. But I am glad I stayed and watched this. Great teaching, nice tips and very professional job 😎👍
Did I miss something about the edges? I have 2 issues. A timber frame from a deck at one edge, and tree in the darn middle. Other edges are fences, or an existing edge with part wood framed garden and a step down. Sounds too hard to me! Nice when it is all square and not tricky.
great videos , many thanks for your advice, i have a question re sand washing out of some paved areas near the house...any ideas ,i have topped it up many times but the rain blasts it out......tnx brendan queensalnd
thanks jason that was really helpful. i picked up a lot of info - im working on a 2x7 patio first time after some experience laying a course around a small unit on a dry mix. found this really helpful.
Great video! I'm looking to start my own paving project, I just have some anxiety about the site prep. How do you know that you have dug deep enough throughout the whole area? And with that, how can you tell its all level? Also wouldnt you want to have the slope within the lower levels of site prep?
I was watching another youtube video yesterday and notice you on another video called " Great Home Ideas" and said wait I've seen this gentleman. I also subscribe to the channel because the projects look good and are very helpful to my learning expirience.
Dear Breatheren , use a flat trowel , if you dampen the roadbase , you can get it flat . And also if someone likes your nice and flat work . You could do theirs.❤
i dont have a compactor, but i am happy for it to look a bit rustic, also i know i can hire one but i am not sure i can even carry one down to my back garden. is there an alternative option / solution?
Hi Tamsen, The tool you will use, will depend on the size of the area you will be paving. For short paths, garden edges or short retaining walls, a tamper tool could be an option for you. However, for paved areas (around 4m2 or more), we recommend a plate compactor.
Please feel free to email us at adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au if you have any other questions. Kind regards, Adbri Masonry Team
Very nice:) have a project on my side yard..I have a space of 16ft from home and porch to street fence by 60ft along street but I have a slope..have different optioons/ideas but still thinking about it...1..take dirt out to flatten space and may be have a sunken patio to put fire pit? Have to dig ou about 2 feet of dirt on high point of slope to flatten area out.. 2...build a retaining wall close to fence and add dirt to fill it in to flatten area out ?.3..or just add a concrete slab extension to the existing porch of about 10ft out and on remaining of space (6ft) build some of thoes planter boxes and plant some podocirpus trees or evergreens 🌲 for privacy along 60ft of fence? Even if I decide to take out or fill it in with dirt to flatten slope I would like to add pavers or maybe gravel to add fire pit section between porch and street fence. (Aboit 16ft by 20ft area) but If I just add about 10 ft of concrete without adding or taking out dirt then I will just add fire pit there..
this is really helpful. a question though. I've got a hidden place I'm laying old bricks on to eliminate weeding. what shall I do to eliminate weeds growing back? a dry cement/sand surface below the bricks, a wet one, something else?
Hi Jeremy. Using a gap sand that contains polymers greatly reduces the chance of weeds growing back. Polymeric sends set firm, but not hard, so the pavers (or bricks in this case) can still be lifted up and reused elsewhere if necessary, but remains firm enough to stop most weeks growing through. This is of course after you've laid compacted roadbase, sand and then the brick pavers.
Can we mix jointing sand with dry cement to fill the gaps then wet it after? Second question: I've seen builders mix cement and jointing sand and spread it all over the flat bed of sharp sand, put the slabs down, then wet the slabs for a few minutes. What do you reckon? Is it a good idea?
Cement can stain the pavers, but it's also because cement hardens and then is likely to crack in the joints. There are a few gap sand options on the market that include a polymer within the sand to help bind in the gaps.
Great video. Quick questions, what did you do to fill in the side against the house where the conduits/cables are coming out of? And how did you fill the small gaps along the concrete slab (since it's not 90 degrees to the house)?
Odd angles and conduit cables can be tricky. In this case we used a sand and cement mix to a ratio of 6:1 and filled dry. It does provide solid haunching in an area where there's not likely to be a lot of traffic, whilst not so firm that it can't be removed if you need to access the cables. That was done for that whole strip, but if there were no cables we would have just used the standard concrete mud mix to haunch.
how thick the base sand should be on top of road base to put 4cm thick pavers? If I use compactor after paving are they going to sink a bit? if so they are not the same level as the concrete.
Hi there, the sand should be 25-30mm. If you screed the sand correctly, the compactor wont affect the height. If the sand is a little unlevel, it could push the pavers down 1-2mm.
Jason really knows his stuff! Bit of a beer belly for a working man though, I'm guessing he's more of a shot-caller these days. :D Cheers all & stay safe.
Hi Hakan. If you use the below formula and input your paving area dimensions, it will give you the volume you need for your project; length (meters) x width (meters) x height (meters) = cubic meters(m³)
Thanx Jason, ill be paving my backyard next week, so if i dont have the compressor machine that u used at the end what can i use or can j just leave it like that.
The plate compactor at the end can be skipped without too much trouble. You'll probably just find you'll need to sweep gap sand in over a few more days. Not having a compactor for the road base at the start is more of an issue. You can get a hand tamper to flatten out the road base. It will be a lot more manual work than a compactor, but will still get the job done.
Love your work Jase! Nice easy instructions to follow and I enjoy how you deliver it! I've watched a few paving 'lessons' but none of them mentioned "line fall" or the 2 haunching methods, great advice. One question though, what is used between the first row of pavers and the house to fill that gap left because of the pipes?
Glad the video was useful for you. In this case Jason has filled in the gap with some of the leftover roadbase. If you wanted to make this gap look more appealing, you could also add a layer of coloured/decorative pebbles on top. If the gap was bigger or you're happy to play around with some really detailed cuts, you could also cut sections of pavers to lay in this gap.
@@AdbriMasonryAus thanks for that. You spent your money well hiring Jason. Unfortunately (or fortunately lol) I'm in NZ so can't use your products but appreciate you've put this on here for everyone - kia ora and ka pai bro!
The fall of the pavers surface is what's going to facilitate drainage. For small paving jobs you can get the road base level and just make sure the sand and pavers have that 1 in 100 fall.
If I install agi pipe under the pavers in a trench with blue metal 10mm, can I then put road base and then sand on top? For drainage purposes? Or can I just use the blue metal as a base instead of road base
I'm not sure why you would need an agg pipe under pavers as most water will run off the top of paving. If you can email the details of your project to adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au I can make some recommendations.
Hi You said to start by laying the pavers half, then a full paver, then another half, full etc along the start and carry it all the way through. How come at the end when you’re putting on clean sand through the gaps, you have full sized pavers all the way at the end where you haunch instead of half sized pavers ? I’m paving in a few days time, so can you plz help me to understand before I begin my project ? Thanks Jason
Hi Rexy, There is a border of full size pavers that go all the way around to ensure the pavers are sturdier and appear neater when looking at the area as a whole. The main body of paving is in a 'stretcher bond' pattern, thus the reason for starting with a half paver, then a full paver. If you would like to avoid cutting pavers to create halves, laying the pavers in a ‘stackbond’ pattern is an option. Good luck with your paving, and if you have any other questions, feel free to email us at adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au
@@AdbriMasonryAus Hi Adbi Thank you for your reply. I spent all night researching the full size paver border and realised it was for a visual aspect. I then began to draw out different layout designs from what I could find online. I do prefer the look of the full paver border with stretcher bond compared to the stackbond. Even though the stackbond would be easier due to less cuts, but hey… I’m only going to do this once, so may as well make it right. Thank you again :)
@@RexyFan That's great to hear. We would love to see the process and outcome, so feel free to share this with us through tagging or email. Good luck! If you have any other questions feel free to contact us at adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au
@@AdbriMasonryAus Question regarding the sand under the pavers … I feel like the pavers could easily be lifted in a few weeks/ months/ years as it’s not really secure? Compared to the edges where it’s actually being haunched with cement and anchored into the ground permanently?
Hi @@RexyFan I understand your concern, but the pavers are 40mm thick. So long as the borders are suitably haunched, the pavers won’t be able to lift up as they would be pushing on the neighbouring paver. If you have installed the recommended bedding and gap filling correctly, the pavers will have no space to lift up.
I am looking to build a patio paving system of approx. 12ft x 11ft for my hot tub. I would be using 24" x 24" Pavers. They are about 1.8" thickness. They are not reinforced type pavers but you common concrete paving slabs. Their would be 5-6" of compacted road base and than 3-4" of sand compacted. I would definitely take my time to make sure it is nicely compacted and level. I wanted to know your thoughts on if the pavers could with stand the weight or is their special pavers for this type of application?
Hi Robert, judging by your measurements in feet and inches I'm assuming you're in the US. I'd be hesitant to make recommendations as I'm not sure what the minimum breaking load is for concrete pavers manufactured in the US. Even here in Australia it can differ from state to state.
@@AdbriMasonryAus I am located in the Americas. Vancouver, BC, Canada. I will check with the manufactures over here on what the breaking load point is. In your experience in Australia with the pavers. Do most of the pavers over there have like a 1000lb per square inch or what ever the conversion is? Some things I googled advised pavers were strong than concrete based on thicknesses.
@@robertrobinson5800 Our "Characteristic Breaking Loads" are measured in units of kN per an Australian/New Zealand engineering standard. What advice may be relevant for your application is that for driveways here, we recommend no less than 100m of compacted roadbase, 25mm bedding sand screeded flat, and pavers no less than 50mm thick. My assumption would be that if this can support light commercial vehicles, it should be able to support a hot tub.
Hi Mark, Thank you for your question. Jason wanted the pavers to start flush with the concrete slab. For this to be possible he needed to dig down 170mm to allow for 100mm of roadbase, 30mm of sandbase and 40mm pavers. Jason continued to dig outwards until he had the entire area 170mm down from the concrete slab height. In this video at 9:34 Jason begins to speak about the slight decline he made with the string line. This was done by dropping the height of the string line by 1cm every 1m from the slab. By 3 meters away from the slab, the line should have dropped 3cm down from the height of the slab. This creates a slight slope for the pavers, to allow water to travel down. If you have any other questions, feel free to email adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au regards, Adbri Masonry Team
Will cement be added to all four edges? Looks like you only did the final two? Gaps between the paving and the house/concrete i guess fill with gavel of your choice? Thanks for the tips and great vid
Hi Sam, you are correct. We applied cement haunching to the two exposed edges. The other two edges have an existing concrete slab in place, so with sufficient gap send swept into those gaps, the pavers will be held in place.
Hi Chantal, In this video Jason uses Adbri Masonry Quadro pavers. Salt and chlorine can damage standard concrete pavers. Thus, we recommend Adbri Masonry Euro pavers, as they achieve a P5 slip rating and are saline and salt resistant, ideal for use around pools. In this video, the methods explained by Jason is the same way you would lay pavers around a pool. Unless you plan to use the Euro pavers for coping - Then you would have to adhere the pavers to cement. Please feel free to contact adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au if you have further questions, Adbri Masonry Team
I am happy to see you again Jason Hodges
From MOROCCO
What a legend, this bloke should be on TV!
Way better than that fraud Scott Cam!
Thoroughly informative Jason , thats the clearest and most concise video ive ever come across 👍🏻
Ah, thank you very much . I watch this video more than 10 times and I done 10 jobs. Let me hug you. Thanks again
You are very welcomed! We are happy that this video has successfully helped you with all your projects. Feel free to send any images of your completed projects through to adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au , we would love to see them.
If you're scrolling through watching paver videos make sure you take the time to watch this one if you follow this video you won't be disappointed with your finished job this is how to correctly lay pavers
Lol, only 6 minutes in and I’ve learnt so much 👍🏼Thanks
Thanks Jason!! :)
The entire world is a prettier place!
Thank you, Jason. I've watched this video about 20 times now and my 1st ever patio job is coming out great so far.
You've got this, Mike!
Hey Jason! Miss you on TV. They did the wrong thing by you mate. Their loss. You are one of the best. 👍🏻
Love watching Jason's videos
This must be the best video I've watched. I've picked up a couple of ideas from you, thanks.
That's Fantastic! We're happy you enjoyed it and learnt from our video!
@@AdbriMasonryAus Can we mix jointing sand with dry cement to fill the gaps then wet it after?
@@AdbriMasonryAussecond question: I've seen builders mix cement and jointing sand and spread it all over the flat bed of sharp sand, put the slabs down, then wet the slabs for a few minutes. What do you reckon? Is it a good idea?
@@boxingcoachdz6846 Hi there, we don’t recommend mixing sand and cement to fill the gaps then watering over it. Segmental paving is designed to be semi rigid. If you fill the gaps between pavers with a cement and sand mix, this will hardened and could cause cracking within the joints. Also, when spreading cement over the top of pavers, you run the risk of the cement adhering to the surface of the pavers before getting it into the gaps.
Please feel free to email marketing@adbri.com.au if you have anymore questions.
This is exactly what I was looking for!!! First time doing a paving job with the exact same pavers. I can’t wait to get started.... Thank you Jason
As a "thoroughly new to this kinda guy" I found this very enjoyable and extremely informative.
1
Top man Jason!!.......you are a great teacher😊
Just found Jason on RUclips so good to see his miss seeing his ideas on bhg keep up the good work
Best video on paving I've seen. Filled with practical tips
I can say that I actually enjoyed watching this! Thank you!
You're a great teacher, keep it up. Thanks.
Thanks, great video. Just doing it myself for the first time. Spent nearly 3 days screeding the sand, thought I had it pretty good. Started laying pavers and they're slightly uneven, I'm having to make little adjustments to the sand on a few of the pavers. Quite frustrating but hopefully it'll turn out ok. I never get tired of watching experts like this, they make it look so easy!
What a great video. Jasons was very thorough in explaining things. Thanks!!!
SO TALENTED , AND HAPPY FOR HIS WORK !!!
what a legend. Cant wait to start my little project on the backyard.
Great video 🤟🏼
Wonderful. You show us in very good way so I almost feel I can do it. Thanks. Any video to create a paving with stairs for the front door plzzz?
Hi Tri, If you'd like to send the measurements for the stairs (height of door and intended width) as well as where you're located, I could provide some instructions and recommended blocks for stairs.
Any details and images can be sent to adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au
Great video thanks, trying this next weekend based on your tips.
Thank you Jason
You are great god bless from Trinidad info priceless looking forward to that
Best instructional on RUclips!
Truly remarkable job, all your suggestions mark towards your experience that you have gained over the years....i would recommend your video for a first timer like me.....cheers bro
Thank you!! I'm so nervous to do this!
Thanks man!
You are a really good teacher. And nice work.
You are a star, Jason. Very informative and lovely to watch. Do you have a video on how to do garden paths?
Depends on what sort of path you're after. We love the idea of step stone paths as they allow you to create an eye catching feature with contrasting colours, without having to get down and lay as many pavers.
ruclips.net/video/JA4C1PpWtUo/видео.html
Top job,thanks for the tips 👍
Well done !
I was looking for another video about a completely different subject. But I am glad I stayed and watched this. Great teaching, nice tips and very professional job 😎👍
Good job friend
You make it look easy mate
Hi Jason
Thanks, this was a very very helpful fully comprehensive instructional on how to pave yourself, the best ones ive seen
Thanks Jason 😀
Did I miss something about the edges? I have 2 issues. A timber frame from a deck at one edge, and tree in the darn middle. Other edges are fences, or an existing edge with part wood framed garden and a step down. Sounds too hard to me! Nice when it is all square and not tricky.
Brilliant for me as a first timer !! Thank you !!
Excellent video especially for a novice! 👏👏👌
Finally
Man we really need more than one video
Great video with good information looking forward to seeing more Cheers
Great Video!
Awesome video mate 🙂🙂 I got a lot of good info from this.
great videos , many thanks for your advice, i have a question re sand washing out of some paved areas near the house...any ideas ,i have topped it up many times but the rain blasts it out......tnx brendan queensalnd
Excellent explanation. Thanks
Nice work mate. Thank you
Very nice video which I enjoyed watching it. let's do it by myself
Oh, .I just checked this channel and see Jason has numerous you tubes...I'm so happy as i really missed him own BHG..What a mistake they made....
Well explained Jason regards Mike
Nicely done mate. You make awesome videos.
Well made. well presented, very informative. well done!
Marvelous. Thank you. Can't wait to get started.
thanks jason great vid... get the tools and off into the job.
Thank you Jason. Great information. Very entertaining as well! Cheers
Love your how to videos
After watching this video I realise I could make a good video on the wrong way to lay pavers. 😅
This is a really helpful video thank you! I would absolutely love to try this with my new home, not sure if I have the confidence just yet!
Best of Luck Jessie! Always feel free to contact us if you need any guidance with using our products. We can do our best to help!
@@AdbriMasonryAus Thanks for the reply, will do! :)
thanks jason that was really helpful. i picked up a lot of info - im working on a 2x7 patio first time after some experience laying a course around a small unit on a dry mix. found this really helpful.
Great video! I'm looking to start my own paving project, I just have some anxiety about the site prep. How do you know that you have dug deep enough throughout the whole area? And with that, how can you tell its all level? Also wouldnt you want to have the slope within the lower levels of site prep?
You legend! Thanks so much for putting your time and knowledge into this 🤙🏼
amazing beautiful.
Great work!!! Thanks for sharing
I was watching another youtube video yesterday and notice you on another video called " Great Home Ideas" and said wait I've seen this gentleman. I also subscribe to the channel because the projects look good and are very helpful to my learning expirience.
Haunching under the last paver is a really good tip. Thanks guys!
Dear Breatheren , use a flat trowel , if you dampen the roadbase , you can get it flat . And also if someone likes your nice and flat work . You could do theirs.❤
i dont have a compactor, but i am happy for it to look a bit rustic, also i know i can hire one but i am not sure i can even carry one down to my back garden. is there an alternative option / solution?
Hi Tamsen,
The tool you will use, will depend on the size of the area you will be paving. For short paths, garden edges or short retaining walls, a tamper tool could be an option for you. However, for paved areas (around 4m2 or more), we recommend a plate compactor.
Please feel free to email us at adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au if you have any other questions.
Kind regards,
Adbri Masonry Team
Very nice:) have a project on my side yard..I have a space of 16ft from home and porch to street fence by 60ft along street but I have a slope..have different optioons/ideas but still thinking about it...1..take dirt out to flatten space and may be have a sunken patio to put fire pit? Have to dig ou about 2 feet of dirt on high point of slope to flatten area out..
2...build a retaining wall close to fence and add dirt to fill it in to flatten area out ?.3..or just add a concrete slab extension to the existing porch of about 10ft out and on remaining of space (6ft) build some of thoes planter boxes and plant some podocirpus trees or evergreens 🌲 for privacy along 60ft of fence? Even if I decide to take out or fill it in with dirt to flatten slope I would like to add pavers or maybe gravel to add fire pit section between porch and street fence. (Aboit 16ft by 20ft area) but If I just add about 10 ft of concrete without adding or taking out dirt then I will just add fire pit there..
A fire pit is always a great addition to a yard = nature's TV.
Great teaching mate👍🏾🙏🏽
Legend. Great video
this is really helpful. a question though. I've got a hidden place I'm laying old bricks on to eliminate weeding. what shall I do to eliminate weeds growing back? a dry cement/sand surface below the bricks, a wet one, something else?
Hi Jeremy. Using a gap sand that contains polymers greatly reduces the chance of weeds growing back. Polymeric sends set firm, but not hard, so the pavers (or bricks in this case) can still be lifted up and reused elsewhere if necessary, but remains firm enough to stop most weeks growing through. This is of course after you've laid compacted roadbase, sand and then the brick pavers.
Lots of useful tips for DIY. Thank you!!!
Wow! Lots is work and great job!
Excellent video...thankx !!!
Can we mix jointing sand with dry cement to fill the gaps then wet it after?
Second question: I've seen builders mix cement and jointing sand and spread it all over the flat bed of sharp sand, put the slabs down, then wet the slabs for a few minutes. What do you reckon? Is it a good idea?
great video! Thanks
Is there a reason not to use some cement mix when filling the gaps? I can think that the cement might stain the pavers. But other than that?
Cement can stain the pavers, but it's also because cement hardens and then is likely to crack in the joints. There are a few gap sand options on the market that include a polymer within the sand to help bind in the gaps.
Great video. Quick questions, what did you do to fill in the side against the house where the conduits/cables are coming out of? And how did you fill the small gaps along the concrete slab (since it's not 90 degrees to the house)?
Odd angles and conduit cables can be tricky. In this case we used a sand and cement mix to a ratio of 6:1 and filled dry. It does provide solid haunching in an area where there's not likely to be a lot of traffic, whilst not so firm that it can't be removed if you need to access the cables. That was done for that whole strip, but if there were no cables we would have just used the standard concrete mud mix to haunch.
Spot on tutorial! You definitely know your craft! 👍🏻
Were you supposed to spread sand on top once finished to fill in the gaps?
Hi Nicka, Jason does this at 18:30 using gap sand.
Great job.
Very helpful thx you
how thick the base sand should be on top of road base to put 4cm thick pavers? If I use compactor after paving are they going to sink a bit? if so they are not the same level as the concrete.
Hi there, the sand should be 25-30mm. If you screed the sand correctly, the compactor wont affect the height. If the sand is a little unlevel, it could push the pavers down 1-2mm.
Nope all good no pipes😂. Good work bro keep the videos coming
I want to start a landscaping
thank you
Jason really knows his stuff! Bit of a beer belly for a working man though, I'm guessing he's more of a shot-caller these days. :D Cheers all & stay safe.
Thanks for video.
would be nice to know how to work out how much road base and sand is required per metre square.
Hi Hakan. If you use the below formula and input your paving area dimensions, it will give you the volume you need for your project;
length (meters) x width (meters) x height (meters) = cubic meters(m³)
Thanx Jason, ill be paving my backyard next week, so if i dont have the compressor machine that u used at the end what can i use or can j just leave it like that.
The plate compactor at the end can be skipped without too much trouble. You'll probably just find you'll need to sweep gap sand in over a few more days.
Not having a compactor for the road base at the start is more of an issue. You can get a hand tamper to flatten out the road base. It will be a lot more manual work than a compactor, but will still get the job done.
Love your work Jase! Nice easy instructions to follow and I enjoy how you deliver it! I've watched a few paving 'lessons' but none of them mentioned "line fall" or the 2 haunching methods, great advice. One question though, what is used between the first row of pavers and the house to fill that gap left because of the pipes?
Glad the video was useful for you. In this case Jason has filled in the gap with some of the leftover roadbase. If you wanted to make this gap look more appealing, you could also add a layer of coloured/decorative pebbles on top.
If the gap was bigger or you're happy to play around with some really detailed cuts, you could also cut sections of pavers to lay in this gap.
@@AdbriMasonryAus thanks for that. You spent your money well hiring Jason. Unfortunately (or fortunately lol) I'm in NZ so can't use your products but appreciate you've put this on here for everyone - kia ora and ka pai bro!
@@TubeVoyeur Happy to help. Best of luck with your paving project.
For drainage, do you string line (slope) the road base with a fall of 1 in 100? Or is drainage sufficient by adjusting the sands grade/slope?
The fall of the pavers surface is what's going to facilitate drainage. For small paving jobs you can get the road base level and just make sure the sand and pavers have that 1 in 100 fall.
If I install agi pipe under the pavers in a trench with blue metal 10mm, can I then put road base and then sand on top? For drainage purposes? Or can I just use the blue metal as a base instead of road base
I'm not sure why you would need an agg pipe under pavers as most water will run off the top of paving. If you can email the details of your project to adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au I can make some recommendations.
@@AdbriMasonryAus thank you, I’ll send it off now! Much appreciated
Hi
You said to start by laying the pavers half, then a full paver, then another half, full etc along the start and carry it all the way through.
How come at the end when you’re putting on clean sand through the gaps, you have full sized pavers all the way at the end where you haunch instead of half sized pavers ?
I’m paving in a few days time, so can you plz help me to understand before I begin my project ?
Thanks Jason
Hi Rexy,
There is a border of full size pavers that go all the way around to ensure the pavers are sturdier and appear neater when looking at the area as a whole. The main body of paving is in a 'stretcher bond' pattern, thus the reason for starting with a half paver, then a full paver.
If you would like to avoid cutting pavers to create halves, laying the pavers in a ‘stackbond’ pattern is an option.
Good luck with your paving, and if you have any other questions, feel free to email us at adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au
@@AdbriMasonryAus
Hi Adbi
Thank you for your reply.
I spent all night researching the full size paver border and realised it was for a visual aspect.
I then began to draw out different layout designs from what I could find online.
I do prefer the look of the full paver border with stretcher bond compared to the stackbond. Even though the stackbond would be easier due to less cuts, but hey… I’m only going to do this once, so may as well make it right.
Thank you again :)
@@RexyFan That's great to hear.
We would love to see the process and outcome, so feel free to share this with us through tagging or email.
Good luck! If you have any other questions feel free to contact us at adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au
@@AdbriMasonryAus
Question regarding the sand under the pavers …
I feel like the pavers could easily be lifted in a few weeks/ months/ years as it’s not really secure? Compared to the edges where it’s actually being haunched with cement and anchored into the ground permanently?
Hi @@RexyFan
I understand your concern, but the pavers are 40mm thick. So long as the borders are suitably haunched, the pavers won’t be able to lift up as they would be pushing on the neighbouring paver. If you have installed the recommended bedding and gap filling correctly, the pavers will have no space to lift up.
I am looking to build a patio paving system of approx. 12ft x 11ft for my hot tub. I would be using 24" x 24" Pavers. They are about 1.8" thickness. They are not reinforced type pavers but you common concrete paving slabs. Their would be 5-6" of compacted road base and than 3-4" of sand compacted. I would definitely take my time to make sure it is nicely compacted and level. I wanted to know your thoughts on if the pavers could with stand the weight or is their special pavers for this type of application?
Hi Robert, judging by your measurements in feet and inches I'm assuming you're in the US. I'd be hesitant to make recommendations as I'm not sure what the minimum breaking load is for concrete pavers manufactured in the US. Even here in Australia it can differ from state to state.
@@AdbriMasonryAus I am located in the Americas. Vancouver, BC, Canada. I will check with the manufactures over here on what the breaking load point is. In your experience in Australia with the pavers. Do most of the pavers over there have like a 1000lb per square inch or what ever the conversion is? Some things I googled advised pavers were strong than concrete based on thicknesses.
@@robertrobinson5800 Our "Characteristic Breaking Loads" are measured in units of kN per an Australian/New Zealand engineering standard.
What advice may be relevant for your application is that for driveways here, we recommend no less than 100m of compacted roadbase, 25mm bedding sand screeded flat, and pavers no less than 50mm thick. My assumption would be that if this can support light commercial vehicles, it should be able to support a hot tub.
@@AdbriMasonryAus thank you. 👍👍
I have the exact same mallet
I got lost at the height calculation?
Hi Mark,
Thank you for your question.
Jason wanted the pavers to start flush with the concrete slab. For this to be possible he needed to dig down 170mm to allow for 100mm of roadbase, 30mm of sandbase and 40mm pavers. Jason continued to dig outwards until he had the entire area 170mm down from the concrete slab height.
In this video at 9:34 Jason begins to speak about the slight decline he made with the string line. This was done by dropping the height of the string line by 1cm every 1m from the slab. By 3 meters away from the slab, the line should have dropped 3cm down from the height of the slab. This creates a slight slope for the pavers, to allow water to travel down.
If you have any other questions, feel free to email adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au
regards,
Adbri Masonry Team
Will cement be added to all four edges? Looks like you only did the final two? Gaps between the paving and the house/concrete i guess fill with gavel of your choice? Thanks for the tips and great vid
Hi Sam, you are correct. We applied cement haunching to the two exposed edges. The other two edges have an existing concrete slab in place, so with sufficient gap send swept into those gaps, the pavers will be held in place.
After watching this I know I will call a professional to do that :D
Thanks mate.
Would this be suitable around a pool?
Hi Chantal,
In this video Jason uses Adbri Masonry Quadro pavers. Salt and chlorine can damage standard concrete pavers. Thus, we recommend Adbri Masonry Euro pavers, as they achieve a P5 slip rating and are saline and salt resistant, ideal for use around pools.
In this video, the methods explained by Jason is the same way you would lay pavers around a pool. Unless you plan to use the Euro pavers for coping - Then you would have to adhere the pavers to cement.
Please feel free to contact adbrimarketing@adbri.com.au if you have further questions,
Adbri Masonry Team
Thank you so much for the info
great guy