I used to use EXACT same setup for architecture - top tips - get the HTS shoe for expanded capability which slots into the Hass tripod adaptor niceley - you can also 'twist' or 'rotate' the HTS adaptor. Once composed take a picture of the whole scene , bracketed if necessary for the sky only. then get a Lee Big or Little Stopper (6 or 10 stops) take another picture at fully closed aperture - the result will be that the exposure is so long that people move but are not recorded so there will be no people in your shot - then blend in the sky in post. I now just use 'transform' and the tilt and shift in post after stitching 9 or more bracketed panos on a Leica S3 - cheaper and easier and more importantly properly weather sealed which the Hass is not - the Hass has one major design flaw - the catch on the top is easily pressed especially if used with a shoulder strap. The back can rub against anything and then falls to the ground!!!! Even more likely if inverted - ie lens facing up. Another option - though more expensive is to use the Hasselblad ARC Body - no vignetting with any of the 3 lenses due to the crop factor
@@mathphotographer I have one solution to the ' button ' problem, on the 907x control grip add a video cage, this covers the button, but ALSO adds 1/4"-20 and 3/8" screw threads, so you can add a connector to fasten the phone to the camera, no need to 'magic arm' it to the tripod leg!
This set up harks back to the old plate cameras of the 19th century. That’s when photographs had to be set up very carefully and you had a wooden box of glass plates and a rotating lens and back to give you a variable plane of focus. What you gain and lose with the adjustments is all swings and roundabouts. Do you know the work of Thomas Streuth? The trick is to find a way of using science to make art. And of course you need deep pockets as well!
Using the H to X converter enhances the FOV on the X sensor image but reduces the resulting optical image circle, meaning less shifting before vignetting than with the H to X adapter without focal length reduction (smaller FOV and greater image circle) It would be very interesting comparing the same image with the H to X converter to the H to X adapter with a greater shooting distance to compensate the focal distance difference to the converter. 😉
one problem with this system, the effective cone of view is NOT wide enough until it hits the camera body; so would make more sense, NOT to use the HTS1.5 (movements at this distance), but a tele-extender, and convert the lens set to V-system, THEN add the flexbody at this stage, where the tilt has a more effective operating area( using the cfvII50C alone, affixed to the flexbody).
Indeed an option, and the vignetting is different in portrait versus landscape mode, also depending on how the lens itself is rotated, spot-on comment.
Generally all city photography gets spoiled by cars and traffic signs and I still not used to see the super sharp photography of the latest state of camera gear it tend to be so hard and less of emotion.
Love this "Frankenstein" combi.
Great explanation, all crystal clear.
Thanks for sharing !
Thanks RS - I enjoyed this 7 component camera a lot :)
this video is phenomenal set up for architectural and some limited street photography
Thanks! It was really fun shooting the camera in this particular setup :)
@@mathphotographer great vlog
I used to use EXACT same setup for architecture - top tips - get the HTS shoe for expanded capability which slots into the Hass tripod adaptor niceley - you can also 'twist' or 'rotate' the HTS adaptor. Once composed take a picture of the whole scene , bracketed if necessary for the sky only. then get a Lee Big or Little Stopper (6 or 10 stops) take another picture at fully closed aperture - the result will be that the exposure is so long that people move but are not recorded so there will be no people in your shot - then blend in the sky in post. I now just use 'transform' and the tilt and shift in post after stitching 9 or more bracketed panos on a Leica S3 - cheaper and easier and more importantly properly weather sealed which the Hass is not - the Hass has one major design flaw - the catch on the top is easily pressed especially if used with a shoulder strap. The back can rub against anything and then falls to the ground!!!! Even more likely if inverted - ie lens facing up. Another option - though more expensive is to use the Hasselblad ARC Body - no vignetting with any of the 3 lenses due to the crop factor
Great comment, thanks!
@@mathphotographer I have one solution to the ' button ' problem, on the 907x control grip add a video cage, this covers the button, but ALSO adds 1/4"-20 and 3/8" screw threads, so you can add a connector to fasten the phone to the camera, no need to 'magic arm' it to the tripod leg!
WOW! Excellent image quality! What an amazing camera! Superb combination and review! Well done!
Very nice! Thanks for sharing!
thanks for the great video. I assume you cant rotate the body like canon ts lens? I was hoping I could take shift in portrait mode :0
What a great setup
Thanks!
Very well done, I use the 907 X also. Who is the vendor for the clamp you hold the IPhone with?
How does it compare to a canon 24 TSE adapted to that same camera body?
Well done, I do use the 907X. Where did you purchase the phone holder?
Would be possible to use the same adapter for ts-e u showed with the xd1ii and the ts-e 17mm?
Thanks
Can you use it with flash?
This set up harks back to the old plate cameras of the 19th century. That’s when photographs had to be set up very carefully and you had a wooden box of glass plates and a rotating lens and back to give you a variable plane of focus. What you gain and lose with the adjustments is all swings and roundabouts. Do you know the work of Thomas Streuth? The trick is to find a way of using science to make art. And of course you need deep pockets as well!
Thanks Peter - nice comment!
Have you tried the Fuji GFX and Canon 24mm TSE VII?
Yes I do shoot Canon TSE on my GFX100s, works very well.
Nice camera setup. Can you manual zoom in/out in the phocus mobile?
No
I was wondering if there’s a setup like this for my S007? I have the 35mm and 180mm. Thanks for all the info.
HTS works upto HC150mm - there is an adaptor for S cameras - see Leica Shop
Thank you for this review. Can we use 2 or 3 XH converters together to get wider image?
God that stupidity...
Using the H to X converter enhances the FOV on the X sensor image but reduces the resulting optical image circle, meaning less shifting before vignetting than with the H to X adapter without focal length reduction (smaller FOV and greater image circle)
It would be very interesting comparing the same image with the H to X converter to the H to X adapter with a greater shooting distance to compensate the focal distance difference to the converter. 😉
Great comment, thanks!
That is a lot of work. Very interesting though. Me, I will just use the 45mm lens. Lol
Beim besten Willen, ich habe noch nie den Auszug auch des "stablisten Stativs", so weit ausgefahren!
Ha! :) I got this tripod just recently and I am super impressed how stable it is :)
one problem with this system, the effective cone of view is NOT wide enough until it hits the camera body; so would make more sense, NOT to use the HTS1.5 (movements at this distance), but a tele-extender, and convert the lens set to V-system, THEN add the flexbody at this stage, where the tilt has a more effective operating area( using the cfvII50C alone, affixed to the flexbody).
I can confirm that the lens collar used is not the original Hasselblad collar I use
Agree - the original Hasselblad tripod clamp has a "Hasselblad" engraving if I am not mistaken, my one has only "XH" engraved :)
@@mathphotographer Where can i get this tripod mount ring？
With the hasselblad one the hts touch the feet when shift down...
Maybe it was better to turn the camera in vertical position and shift horizontally...
Indeed an option, and the vignetting is different in portrait versus landscape mode, also depending on how the lens itself is rotated, spot-on comment.
Generally all city photography gets spoiled by cars and traffic signs and I still not used to see the super sharp photography of the latest state of camera gear it tend to be so hard and less of emotion.