Great Video. I was really worried about the headphone jack issue I have, even after looking at the exploded views in the service manual. This was brilliant, thanks so much for making this video. It never ceases to amaze me that there are people who take the trouble to do this kind of video just to help others.
Helpful tip: The headphone jack socket 'floats' on the pcb module (the solder joints hold it and nothing else) and under strain from headphone is bound to fail. I put hot glue between the socket and pcb after refloating the solder. It is now solid and less likely to fail again.
Dear Sir, Thank you for repair videos, these helsp to me repair my Tascam 122 MK III. My Tascam has the same problem than yours, headphone section. I have a question, what kind of screw driver have to use to put down the 3 buttons from the front plate? Thank you for your answer. Papdi Imre from Hungary ( my Tascam was made in Japan in 1995.)
I just bought one of these on ebay that I plan on fixing. I am looking at the schematic and it looks like the US version has no fuses? Near the transformer there is WB01, WB02 and WB03 where the fuses should be. Yours is the same way. It looks like they felt the thermal fuse inside the transformer was enough protection.
These videos were great. My display doesn't work though. I changed the display out with no differing results. There aren't caps or anything that would cause the fail. Any advice on how the M PCB board is in relation to the S PCB board that would cause the display to not work?
Thank you. No advice other than to look closely at what all is in the display circuit, the power and whatever drives it. I didn't look at that when I had mine open.
Can anyone tell me where vu-meters and in out settings are on the electronic boards ?... I need to adjust my device without taking it to a technician. Merci.
Way more often than not I see electrolytic caps in 40-50 (!) year old units test OVER SPEC (over 100%). This Tascam is barely 20 years old, there is No need to replace caps in it (unless it's for the purpose of changing its sound characteristics). And of course if you do change caps in the signal path, the deck will need to be re-calibrated for gain, levels, EQ, and bias -which will require a test tape, an oscilloscope, a signal generator, a VM, the service manual, and knowledge.
@@jasonlamarking Jason's right. These gen1 miniature SMD electroytics from the late 1990's are a known fail point for a lot of gear from that era...just ask anyone who has a Tektronix TDM series scope. They've been a total nightmare because dozens of these horrid SMD electrolytics failed. (You can read about it on the Tek Scopes forum if you don't believe me.) I have a Tek 2445B scope with a dead A5 board due to the very same capacitor from the very same manufacturer which leaked all over and ruined the traces. Also FWIW, I have FOUR of these Tascam 122 Mk 3 in my bench cue right now, and I just fixed the first one. After triage, every single one of these Tascams has a bad C gear, a gummed up headstack lifter mechanism/switch, a broken heaphone jack, and loads of bad SMD electrolytics on the capstan board! These were not abused machines, either. I bought those machines brand new in the late 1990's. They were all studio queens, and treated very carefully. But they've all been dead for a nearly a decade...mostly because of bad capstan board caps. So I gotta agree with Jason. Expect to find these dead, and expect to replace them, and they are kind of a pain to replace. Equally, expect to find a dead C gear due to a poor lubrication choice by Tascam. And don't be surprised that the headphone jack has broken traces on the circuit board. A common fault for obvious reasons.
Dear Sir, Thank you for repair videos, these helsp to me repair my Tascam 122 MK III. My Tascam has the same problem than yours, headphone section. I have a question, what kind of screw driver have to use to put down the 3 buttons from the front plate? Thank you for your answer. Papdi Imre from Hungary ( my Tascam was made in Japan in 1995.)
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Great Video. I was really worried about the headphone jack issue I have, even after looking at the exploded views in the service manual. This was brilliant, thanks so much for making this video. It never ceases to amaze me that there are people who take the trouble to do this kind of video just to help others.
Thanks for watching!
I like the brush! Thanks for the ground spring top tip.
I’m sooo glad I saw this before taking mine apart to fix the headphone jack! Thanks for pointing out and showing how to replace that tiny spring!
You're welcome.
Helpful tip: The headphone jack socket 'floats' on the pcb module (the solder joints hold it and nothing else) and under strain from headphone is bound to fail. I put hot glue between the socket and pcb after refloating the solder. It is now solid and less likely to fail again.
Great videos!
Thank you
Dear Sir,
Thank you for repair videos, these helsp to me repair my Tascam 122 MK III. My Tascam has the same problem than yours, headphone section. I have a question, what kind of screw driver have to use to put down the 3 buttons from the front plate? Thank you for your answer. Papdi Imre from Hungary ( my Tascam was made in Japan in 1995.)
I just can't wait to see the part 2 of the video. What are the common issues for Tascam 122 MK3?
How does it sound?
Broken gears and possibly bad caps. It sounds amazing is all I can say.
I just bought one of these on ebay that I plan on fixing. I am looking at the schematic and it looks like the US version has no fuses? Near the transformer there is WB01, WB02 and WB03 where the fuses should be. Yours is the same way. It looks like they felt the thermal fuse inside the transformer was enough protection.
These videos were great. My display doesn't work though. I changed the display out with no differing results. There aren't caps or anything that would cause the fail. Any advice on how the M PCB board is in relation to the S PCB board that would cause the display to not work?
Thank you. No advice other than to look closely at what all is in the display circuit, the power and whatever drives it. I didn't look at that when I had mine open.
hey i have a tascam 122 im trying to repair and i cant figure out how to get the knobs off in order to remove the face plate. any advice? tysm
Can anyone tell me where vu-meters and in out settings are on the electronic boards ?... I need to adjust my device without taking it to a technician. Merci.
Way more often than not I see electrolytic caps in 40-50 (!) year old units test OVER SPEC (over 100%). This Tascam is barely 20 years old, there is No need to replace caps in it (unless it's for the purpose of changing its sound characteristics). And of course if you do change caps in the signal path, the deck will need to be re-calibrated for gain, levels, EQ, and bias -which will require a test tape, an oscilloscope, a signal generator, a VM, the service manual, and knowledge.
Thanks for your comment. The caps on this capstan motor are known to fail. It's my unit and I chose to replace them.
@@jasonlamarking Jason's right. These gen1 miniature SMD electroytics from the late 1990's are a known fail point for a lot of gear from that era...just ask anyone who has a Tektronix TDM series scope. They've been a total nightmare because dozens of these horrid SMD electrolytics failed. (You can read about it on the Tek Scopes forum if you don't believe me.) I have a Tek 2445B scope with a dead A5 board due to the very same capacitor from the very same manufacturer which leaked all over and ruined the traces. Also FWIW, I have FOUR of these Tascam 122 Mk 3 in my bench cue right now, and I just fixed the first one. After triage, every single one of these Tascams has a bad C gear, a gummed up headstack lifter mechanism/switch, a broken heaphone jack, and loads of bad SMD electrolytics on the capstan board! These were not abused machines, either. I bought those machines brand new in the late 1990's. They were all studio queens, and treated very carefully. But they've all been dead for a nearly a decade...mostly because of bad capstan board caps. So I gotta agree with Jason. Expect to find these dead, and expect to replace them, and they are kind of a pain to replace. Equally, expect to find a dead C gear due to a poor lubrication choice by Tascam. And don't be surprised that the headphone jack has broken traces on the circuit board. A common fault for obvious reasons.
👍
Dear Sir,
Thank you for repair videos, these helsp to me repair my
Tascam 122 MK III. My Tascam has the same problem than yours, headphone
section. I have a question, what kind of screw driver have to use to put
down the 3 buttons from the front plate? Thank you for your answer.
Papdi Imre from Hungary ( my Tascam was made in Japan in 1995.)