Hi I changed the plug thermo wax cleaned all the jets in the carb, still surging badly, I redone all carb cleaning and jets at least twenty times, then by accident I removed the metal arm which hold the springs to the carb, removed split pin removed the shaft, cleaned replaced the arm , started the mower started first time,runs perfectly, al I can think the arm was not sitting on the shaft properly, no surging at all , hope this helps other people.
This is the first time I repair a lawn mower with automatic choke. I saw the two bolts with paint on them and thought I shouldn't really do this but it didn't work so I had nothing to lose. I also got concerned when all the gaskets dropped as they didn't stay stuck to the parts. I got all the way to the thermowax part but didn't know what it dd. Was about to give up and I hate doing that but put it back together and still wasn't working then watched this video. You did a great job with the video so easy to understand and realized what the thermowax did and then realized it was the problem. Picked up the part this morning and 10 minutes to reassemble and it works like a charm thanks to you 0:22
Before tackling this repair, give your local Honda dealer a call with serial number and engine code as this repair may be covered by recall or special policy. This issue was fairly common and Honda was covering this at no cost to owner. I was formally (retired warranty clerk) and we covered a number of these repairs for customer satisfaction 😉
Thanks for sharing this video I just checked my choke and found the problem, after taking my mower to the repair shop and being told I needed a new mower I’m so glad I didn’t get sucked in because I’m gonna get the part and replace it myself 🙂
Replaced the thermowax unit, still needed a shot of starting fluid to do a cold start. Hot start was ok. Cleaned carb, no better. Choke appeared to be closed when cold. The metal post on the top of the carb is the stop for the choke pivot shaft. I ground off a little material from the metal post which allowed the choke to close another 5 or 10 percent. Now it starts with one pull.
Time for me to eat some humble pie! I said I ground down shaft a few months ago to allow choke to close more. It worked then. Last week it was running too rich when warm. By slipping a piece of tube over shaft to restore its original dimension it now works ok, for now! Adjusted governor, seemed to help. I decided it’s a tricky system, every thing must be just so. I miss the old manual chokes I grew up with!
Bro, you saved my life. I needed to do some PM and clean my carb. I took it apart and panicked when it all fell apart. Thanks to you, she's running good as new.
Excellent video & instructions. I'm qualified to make this statement because i have watched at least 25 other lawn mower repair videos. Additionally, i have watched easily over 100 repair videos on everything from gas dryer centrifugal switch to Mercedes Benz Active Body Control (ABC) hydraulic pump replacement, and everything inbetween. Keep up the good work!
AFTER replacing the air filter, the spark plug and the gas filter, my mower still would not start. Thank you for this video on replacing the choke actuator was found, and while getting the part out is a pain(I used a small vise grip), it did work. Thanks for saving me time and money, since my local repair shop couldn't even look at the problem for 3-4 weeks, and I was already considering a new mower.
Cheers. Pulled my old Mountfield out this morning. Choke stuck open exactly as you said. Took the two bolts out, pulled the thingy forward bolted back up. Fired in a few pulls. Will order the part now. Top stuff.
Thank you very much for this video!! My choke was stuck half way open making the engine sputter. Little WD40 and it loosened up. Running like a champ. Thanks again.
yes after losing a 100.00 and a new carb I did not need I see what my problem is now. Ordered the thermowax I will change it myself thanks to your video. Peace
Thanks for a great and much needed video. I've spent over five days researching Honda literature and countless videos on RUclips without much success. I knew I had a choke problem but there were no videos showing this Thermal Wax device and it's purpose. Even in the Honda literature. So once again thanks and I'll subscribe to your channel and recommend to others. Happy Thanksgiving.
Thanks. I hate reassembly but watching your video helped a lot. Practice makes perfect. My mower has a throttle control that the bolts have to go through right behind the air filter housing which makes it even harder. What a pain in the neck.
A tip for cold weather climates. Clean out the Honda bond inside the thermo wax housing and wrap the new one with some foil so the heat transfer from the engine will engage/ disengage it more accurately.
opened up a used GCV160 mower I picked up (only started right after I bought it). Had the autochoke thermostat removed, was missing gaskets and the card had been changed to a manual choke carb but disconnected, no control. Made some gaskets and tied a rope to the manual choke to operante it =). Runs like a champ
Excellent video. I had no idea how the choke works and if I put everything back together properly when I cleaned the carburetor. Now I know what to look for. My concern was the linkage to the choke which you covered well. Thanks!!
Thank you for the information. I really appreciate it. It was exactly what I was looking for in regards to troubleshooting this lawnmower my neighbor had given me.
you made this reassembly look easy. I ended up going to Park Rose Hardware today and buying a 70mm socket cap screw to hold the carb and auto choke in place then sliding on the plastic air cleaner holder over the head of the cap screw (grinder and drill reduced the cap screw a little to fit the hole in the plastic), then replaced one 10mm bolt first. backing out the socket head cap screw on the other side and putting the 10mm bolt in its place. It was a fiasco, but I beat the lawn mower and it started right up so I could finish mowing. Success was sweet but your method is a whole lot simpler ... didn't think of it.
I just replaced my carb and I was having a heck of a time trying hold everything together as far the gaskets, plates. etc. Low and behold it took me two try's to assemble, but Walla Thanks again for the video.
Not the problem I had BUT saw the problem I created putting the wrong carb on and forgetting how to reassemble. I have a couple of dead mowers that were running great so that being said. I’m subbing and bingeing. Thanks
My mower isn't a Honda, but It has the new one-pull start feature that doesn't always start with one pull. I'm familiar with the older mower engines with the primer bulb, so this auto-choke thing is new to me.
I was looking for Diablo 4 leveling builds and this showed up on my "Reccomended" feed. Just here t say quality content, hit like for the algorithms lol cheers bro I don't even have a mower gonna get one now and stop paying someone
With businesses hiring just anyone, I am sure a repair shop would say buy a new mower. In fact, alot of trades do that. Tech is lazy or dimwitted, advises to go buy a new unit. Good video.
My air cleaner has three bolts and is a bear to put on. I had to clean the jets and even removed the flag that limits the idle circuit travel so I could clear it.. I was not aware of how to fix the auto choke, so I added a manual Thanks for this video. Very clear and helpful info to see how all the gaskets fit. I would rather that Honda put in at least one or two studs instead of using bolts. Predator clone engines use studs on their horizontal engines and that makes it much easier to work on.
I have a 25 year old Honda 150CC engine and the choke never worked even when it was new. I discovered that with a nearly full tank of gas, you can tilt the mower 90 degrees on its right side, count to 10 slowly on a warm day and to 20 on a cold day, and fuel dribbles into the engine which provides the perfect prime to start the engine. I'll see if it also works on the GCV160 as well.
Thank You Bryan, I was given a 12 year old Honda lawnmower that wouldn’t start. It wasn’t the thermowax part. A very dirty carb. Now my problem is it leaks gas from the air filter box. What causes this ? Thanks
Thanks for watching. You most likely have some corrosion in the carburetor causing the needle to not seat properly. This will cause the gas to overfill in the carb bowl. I would advise buying an OEM carburetor for around $30 and swapping it out. You can also check your float and make sure there is no gas inside by shaking it.
My same model cranks but runs too rich. So with what I learned from this excellent video, I will check the auto choke part and probably will see that it does not open very much and the engine soon dies out.
I have a similar problem but my HONDA GCV160 WILL NOT START WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. So I mow the backyard, turn off the mower and by the time I take the short walk to the front lawn the mower will not start. I must wait until the engine cools before it will start again - 30-40 min. Do you have a remedy for this problem?
Worked for me don't know if it was I adjusted the piston pin, just took thew pin out and put it back in, or draining last yrs. gas that did it. sounds better than ever. and im an old lady.
I had a similar problem with my 2014 TB130, But when I decided to replace the thermal wax assembly, I said to myself, screw it. Not only did we replace the thermal wax assembly, but we installed a brand new carburetor with all the gaskets, a new auto choke assembly, completely drained the fuel, replaced the fuel lines with branded gates, carbureted hoses, replaced the fuel filter inside the hose, replace the spark plug with a new NGK. Replace all the springs. Also, replace the old pull string starter since the old one was not retracting, brand new air filter, and from now on, use TruFuel 4 cycle ethanol, free fuel. Complete oil change with VP 10W-30 full synthetic four-cycle engine oil. And, of course, all parts were replaced with genuine Honda. The lawnmower starts with barely a pull.
I has this same problem. My mower parts list had the same rectangular barrel as you showed, but when I disassembled the unit, it used a circular barrel choke instead. Got the right part, and the problem was fixed. Thanks. P.S. I noticed that your carburetor did not have an idle adjust screw. Is that common with Honda mowers?
Thanks for watching. This model did not have an idle adjust screw. However, I’ve seen them on other Honda engines. I’ve noticed on this model the engine will idle lower as the governor return spring stretches.
So my butterfly thing keeps flipping and staying open, even though it was closed before starting. It will start and run, then die and the butterfly thing will be open. Any ideas?
Hi, thanks for video. So on a cold engine the thermowax needle should be retracted in and not pointing out? Noticed mine is pointing out even though the engine is cold, so Im guessing I need a new one? This comes after the engine suddenly started bucking and spluttering mid mow, Im guessing the choke was engaging from a faulty thermowax? Another question, the drivebelt seems a bit sloppy. Im guessing cable adjustment is necessary? Belt seems in OK condition.
That’s correct, it should be full retracted when the engine is cold and push out once it warms up. If you have the same model in the video, the self-propel cable has an adjustment on it near the bottom of the handle.
I had, actually still have but don't use, a 48" cut walk behind commercial Honda mower I used for about 20 years in my approximately 3 acre lawn until it caught fire and melted the intake manifold. Only time I ever had trouble starting it even after sitting during the winter months was when the throttle cable came lose at the carb and it wasn't actually going into choke mode. Used starter fluid for a few months until I finally took the time to look closer and see what the issue was. Put the cable back in place and never had any starting issue again....well....until the fire!
Great video! My big problem is trying to get the bolts screwed back on the motor. I've just spent at least 3hrs trying to screw them back on! I'm frustrated!
I find them difficult too :(. I resorted to using 2 wooden dowels that were kinda snug in the threaded holes on the manifold, got everything back in place and carefully removed one dowel, installed the original bolt and repeated for the 2nd side. It's a lot easier if the mower isn't on the ground for sure, I raise the carb side by stuffing the edge of a plastic milk crate under the deck to give me a better view.
thanks for your video, it was the most thorough and easy to follow. I like my HRR2169VKA mower and have replaced the rear drive axle and gears. The drive belt was easy and YOUtUBE along with your video makes it simple and easy., I have subscribed and gave you a thumbs up.
I just got a hrr216k9vkaa , all starts and works ok, seems to have a slight surging constantly, any ideas on what problem may be? Thanks for posting this, ill remember if and when the day comes. Any idea what year my model is?
If it is surging you can try cleaning the carburetor. There is a pilot and main jet. Most likely the pilot jet is clogged. The Honda carbs are usually cheap so if that doesn’t fix it I would grab a new carb.
Great video, thanks mate. Do you know of that part can be fixed? Eg. Is it just a lubrication issue?(can it be removed lubricated and reinstalled?) Cheers
Having an issue where I replaced the carb, it starts and stays on but it feels like it’s not at full throttle or the engine is weak. The moment I run it over any grass it struggles to stay on. Keeping it on in the same position is no problem though.
Bryan, do you know what thread die I need to chase threads on crankshaft? My neighbor messed up first thread and can't thread new nut on it. Would be ashamed to throw mower away because of this. Hope you can help. TY.
@@benchnwrench It was a M14 1.5 I ordered the correct tap & die. Rethreaded the crankshaft threads for flywheel nut. Had to use adjustable pliers. Did not have wrench to put die on it. Nut threads on now.
I noticed your auto choke mechanism goes over the outside round portion of where thermostat sits. Mine does not do that and I'm having trouble with choke opening.
Great close-up video, thanks :) Anyone else have their carb linkage, or throttle plate bind? Mine bound up with the throttle wide open. All I can think is that it may have happened from a backfire in the carb slamming the throttle plate and linkage as I had neglected winterizing the mower (dumb), and was using starter fluid. I freed the assembly up by pulling back and forth on the governor linkage. Now the governor doesn't seem as responsive. Any ideas at all appreciated.
I have the same engine. Mine starts on the first pull but choke stays closed. If I stick a screw drive into the choke, it does open and mower runs fine. Do you think I need this thermowax thing?
What if my black and decker mower self propelled..my choke door had a little top piece of plastic over carb that has a spring that went haywire. It's a tiny tiny spring about inch or less long. But it helps open my carb door when you move the odd shape plastic piece above it..thr spring is on a small cylinder like piece of plastic. But there is several spots it could wrap around one or all 3 of the tiny cylinders of plastic. Only spring seems broken..... I can't figure out how it was on there previously to make my choke close.... I can't crank mower. I cleaned carb checked spark. It pull cord is fine with a rumble not a crank...
I would try to spray some starting fluid in the carb intake. If it starts for a second then dies you will need to clean or replace the carb. You can also check for spark if it does not start.
My mower starts fine when cold and the choke is closed. After running for a few minutes, the rpm's will go up and down a little. Once I shut it down, re-starting is hard or No-start at all.
If your choke never opens and it is automatic, I would suspect the Thermowax. You may want to check that the carb choke arm is installed correctly too.
So I started the mower, the choke keeps flipping and then staying open, but it dies again on its own. The choke will eventually close on its own after I go away for a few minutes, only to repeat the process of dying on its own when I try to start it again. Any ideas?
Hello, it sounds like the engine may be dying from a lack of fuel. I would take the bowl off the carburetor and clean the jets. I will be making more videos soon how to do this. Although, an OEM Honda carburetor is relatively cheap and may be worth replacing depending on the condition inside.
My lever had lost it's spring power and was basically useless, so the choke was stuck open. And the more I tried to start the engine unsuccessfully, gas would flood through and leak outside the air filter. I replaced the lever, spark plug and had to change oil(because the gas had leaked into it). The engine started to run very smooth at first, but as I was cutting grass it started to surge, is this related to me not installing the gaskets correctly or should the air filter be changed because gas once soaked. The air filter does not look dirty. I have a HRR2166VKA series, slightly different carburetor, but everything else is pretty much the same. Any thoughts?
It could be a problem with the gaskets causing air to leak into the intake. You may also want to clean your carburetor. There should be a main jet and pilot jet. As the engine warms up it sounds like it is running lean and surging.
@@benchnwrench I fixed the problem, I think I had one of the gaskets the wrong way and I did not screw it tight enough. Once I did it correctly it ran better than ever.
Hi I changed the plug thermo wax cleaned all the jets in the carb, still surging badly, I redone all carb cleaning and jets at least twenty times, then by accident I removed the metal arm which hold the springs to the carb, removed split pin removed the shaft, cleaned replaced the arm , started the mower started first time,runs perfectly, al I can think the arm was not sitting on the shaft properly, no surging at all , hope this helps other people.
Ty!
This is the first time I repair a lawn mower with automatic choke. I saw the two bolts with paint on them and thought I shouldn't really do this but it didn't work so I had nothing to lose. I also got concerned when all the gaskets dropped as they didn't stay stuck to the parts. I got all the way to the thermowax part but didn't know what it dd. Was about to give up and I hate doing that but put it back together and still wasn't working then watched this video. You did a great job with the video so easy to understand and realized what the thermowax did and then realized it was the problem. Picked up the part this morning and 10 minutes to reassemble and it works like a charm thanks to you 0:22
Before tackling this repair, give your local Honda dealer a call with serial number and engine code as this repair may be covered by recall or special policy. This issue was fairly common and Honda was covering this at no cost to owner.
I was formally (retired warranty clerk) and we covered a number of these repairs for customer satisfaction 😉
Thanks for the info! Definitely worth a shot before buying the part.
Thanks for sharing this video I just checked my choke and found the problem, after taking my mower to the repair shop and being told I needed a new mower I’m so glad I didn’t get sucked in because I’m gonna get the part and replace it myself 🙂
😅😅o8
Replaced the thermowax unit, still needed a shot of starting fluid to do a cold start. Hot start was ok. Cleaned carb, no better. Choke appeared to be closed when cold. The metal post on the top of the carb is the stop for the choke pivot shaft. I ground off a little material from the metal post which allowed the choke to close another 5 or 10 percent. Now it starts with one pull.
Good tip. Thanks.
Time for me to eat some humble pie! I said I ground down shaft a few months ago to allow choke to close more. It worked then. Last week it was running too rich when warm. By slipping a piece of tube over shaft to restore its original dimension it now works ok, for now! Adjusted governor, seemed to help. I decided it’s a tricky system, every thing must be just so. I miss the old manual chokes I grew up with!
Wish me luck. It's been wicked hard getting the wax piston out. I think it is adhered with hi temp silicone.
Bro, you saved my life. I needed to do some PM and clean my carb. I took it apart and panicked when it all fell apart. Thanks to you, she's running good as new.
Excellent video & instructions. I'm qualified to make this statement because i have watched at least 25 other lawn mower repair videos. Additionally, i have watched easily over 100 repair videos on everything from gas dryer centrifugal switch to Mercedes Benz Active Body Control (ABC) hydraulic pump replacement, and everything inbetween.
Keep up the good work!
AFTER replacing the air filter, the spark plug and the gas filter, my mower still would not start. Thank you for this video on replacing the choke actuator was found, and while getting the part out is a pain(I used a small vise grip), it did work. Thanks for saving me time and money, since my local repair shop couldn't even look at the problem for 3-4 weeks, and I was already considering a new mower.
Cheers. Pulled my old Mountfield out this morning. Choke stuck open exactly as you said. Took the two bolts out, pulled the thingy forward bolted back up. Fired in a few pulls. Will order the part now.
Top stuff.
That was so fast and easy!!! Thanks for the great video. The lawn mower started on the first pull, which hasn't happened before 👍
Thank you very much for this video!!
My choke was stuck half way open making the engine sputter. Little WD40 and it loosened up. Running like a champ.
Thanks again.
Sometimes that’s all it takes to loosen up the butterfly valve. Glad to help!
yes after losing a 100.00 and a new carb I did not need I see what my problem is now. Ordered the thermowax I will change it myself thanks to your video. Peace
Brilliant. Works beautifully again. Repair shop said it was toast.
Thanks for a great and much needed video. I've spent over five days researching Honda literature and countless videos on RUclips without much success. I knew I had a choke problem but there were no videos showing this Thermal Wax device and it's purpose. Even in the Honda literature. So once again thanks and I'll subscribe to your channel and recommend to others. Happy Thanksgiving.
everything I was looking for IS IN this video. I'm ordering part now. Well Done ! : ) Thank You !
Did this fix your problem?
Thanks. I hate reassembly but watching your video helped a lot. Practice makes perfect. My mower has a throttle control that the bolts have to go through right behind the air filter housing which makes it even harder. What a pain in the neck.
A tip for cold weather climates. Clean out the Honda bond inside the thermo wax housing and wrap the new one with some foil so the heat transfer from the engine will engage/ disengage it more accurately.
Great tip Andy, I did not apply new Honda Bond. However, that would solve any heat transfer issues.
One of the best youtube videos I have ever seen.
opened up a used GCV160 mower I picked up (only started right after I bought it). Had the autochoke thermostat removed, was missing gaskets and the card had been changed to a manual choke carb but disconnected, no control. Made some gaskets and tied a rope to the manual choke to operante it =). Runs like a champ
Excellent video. I had no idea how the choke works and if I put everything back together properly when I cleaned the carburetor. Now I know what to look for. My concern was the linkage to the choke which you covered well. Thanks!!
Thank you for the information. I really appreciate it. It was exactly what I was looking for in regards to troubleshooting this lawnmower my neighbor had given me.
you made this reassembly look easy. I ended up going to Park Rose Hardware today and buying a 70mm socket cap screw to hold the carb and auto choke in place then sliding on the plastic air cleaner holder over the head of the cap screw (grinder and drill reduced the cap screw a little to fit the hole in the plastic), then replaced one 10mm bolt first. backing out the socket head cap screw on the other side and putting the 10mm bolt in its place. It was a fiasco, but I beat the lawn mower and it started right up so I could finish mowing. Success was sweet but your method is a whole lot simpler ... didn't think of it.
Great video mate. Just picked one of these up, heard it was a common issue after a few hundred hours. Now i know how to fix it cheaply.
Thanks, i just held mine open with a screwdriver to start it and just left it running for a while. starts no problem now. thanjs very much
I just replaced my carb and I was having a heck of a time trying hold everything together as far the gaskets, plates. etc.
Low and behold it took me two try's to assemble, but Walla
Thanks again for the video.
Glad to hear you got it back together, those gaskets can be tricky.
Great detail. My 217HXA needs this. Shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks.
this is a very well-done video for being able to see everything done and explaining it well. If you lived closer, I be at your shop! thank you, Steve
Not the problem I had BUT saw the problem I created putting the wrong carb on and forgetting how to reassemble. I have a couple of dead mowers that were running great so that being said. I’m subbing and bingeing. Thanks
Thanks for this video, it helped me get my mower running again! Two thumbs up!
My mower isn't a Honda, but It has the new one-pull start feature that doesn't always start with one pull. I'm familiar with the older mower engines with the primer bulb, so this auto-choke thing is new to me.
I was looking for Diablo 4 leveling builds and this showed up on my "Reccomended" feed. Just here t say quality content, hit like for the algorithms lol cheers bro I don't even have a mower gonna get one now and stop paying someone
Excellent job. You have a real talent for video and instruction.
With businesses hiring just anyone, I am sure a repair shop would say buy a new mower. In fact, alot of trades do that. Tech is lazy or dimwitted, advises to go buy a new unit. Good video.
Terrific guidance. just what I needed to troubleshoot my carburetor. Thanks Bryan.
Thanks for watching and good luck on the repair!
Great tip , never seen this choke gadget before, thanks for sharing. 🇬🇧👍
My air cleaner has three bolts and is a bear to put on. I had to clean the jets and even removed the flag that limits the idle circuit travel so I could clear it.. I was not aware of how to fix the auto choke, so I added a manual
Thanks for this video. Very clear and helpful info to see how all the gaskets fit. I would rather that Honda put in at least one or two studs instead of using bolts. Predator clone engines use studs on their horizontal engines and that makes it much easier to work on.
Excellent video and instruction. Simple and to the point with great close ups of the parts needing working on.
Really helpful and clearly explained - I learnt a lot.
Many thanks......all the way from London !
Thank you. Loved how close you were to what you were doing and how informative ... SUBSCRIBED!
I have a 25 year old Honda 150CC engine and the choke never worked even when it was new. I discovered that with a nearly full tank of gas, you can tilt the mower 90 degrees on its right side, count to 10 slowly on a warm day and to 20 on a cold day, and fuel dribbles into the engine which provides the perfect prime to start the engine. I'll see if it also works on the GCV160 as well.
Thank You Bryan, I was given a 12 year old Honda lawnmower that wouldn’t start. It wasn’t the thermowax part. A very dirty carb.
Now my problem is it leaks gas from the air filter box. What causes this ? Thanks
Thanks for watching. You most likely have some corrosion in the carburetor causing the needle to not seat properly. This will cause the gas to overfill in the carb bowl. I would advise buying an OEM carburetor for around $30 and swapping it out. You can also check your float and make sure there is no gas inside by shaking it.
My same model cranks but runs too rich. So with what I learned from this excellent video, I will check the auto choke part and probably will see that it does not open very much and the engine soon dies out.
I have a similar problem but my HONDA GCV160 WILL NOT START WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. So I mow the backyard, turn off the mower and by the time I take the short walk to the front lawn the mower will not start. I must wait until the engine cools before it will start again - 30-40 min. Do you have a remedy for this problem?
Grab a screwdriver and manually push the chocke in closed position and hold it in therr while having someone else pull and start it.
Good video. Thank You. Mickey Mouse design from the bolts securing the carb. ( instead of later design stud's) to the wax auto choke.
Very good instructions! Thank you so much.
YESSS THANK YOU! Auto choke was stuck.
Nice job. Very informative! ✊
Worked for me don't know if it was I adjusted the piston pin, just took thew pin out and put it back in, or draining last yrs. gas that did it. sounds better than ever. and im an old lady.
It was a very well done and helpful video.
Great viode and instruction. very clear. I fixed my lawn mower.
Great video, clear easy to follow instructions! Thank you.
Fixed my problem in minutes, thanks mate 👍
very nice ...mine is starting to take 3 to 4 pulls ...this may be the issue...now I know what to look for in the air box
Thanks for watching. If that doesn’t solve the problem you can try cleaning the carburetor. Or a new carb is fairly priced for this engine.
I had a similar problem with my 2014 TB130, But when I decided to replace the thermal wax assembly, I said to myself, screw it. Not only did we replace the thermal wax assembly, but we installed a brand new carburetor with all the gaskets, a new auto choke assembly, completely drained the fuel, replaced the fuel lines with branded gates, carbureted hoses, replaced the fuel filter inside the hose, replace the spark plug with a new NGK. Replace all the springs. Also, replace the old pull string starter since the old one was not retracting, brand new air filter, and from now on, use TruFuel 4 cycle ethanol, free fuel. Complete oil change with VP 10W-30 full synthetic four-cycle engine oil. And, of course, all parts were replaced with genuine Honda. The lawnmower starts with barely a pull.
I has this same problem. My mower parts list had the same rectangular barrel as you showed, but when I disassembled the unit, it used a circular barrel choke instead. Got the right part, and the problem was fixed. Thanks. P.S. I noticed that your carburetor did not have an idle adjust screw. Is that common with Honda mowers?
Thanks for watching. This model did not have an idle adjust screw. However, I’ve seen them on other Honda engines. I’ve noticed on this model the engine will idle lower as the governor return spring stretches.
So my butterfly thing keeps flipping and staying open, even though it was closed before starting. It will start and run, then die and the butterfly thing will be open. Any ideas?
That was it thank you so much. God bless you, dear friend.
Hi, thanks for video. So on a cold engine the thermowax needle should be retracted in and not pointing out? Noticed mine is pointing out even though the engine is cold, so Im guessing I need a new one? This comes after the engine suddenly started bucking and spluttering mid mow, Im guessing the choke was engaging from a faulty thermowax? Another question, the drivebelt seems a bit sloppy. Im guessing cable adjustment is necessary? Belt seems in OK condition.
That’s correct, it should be full retracted when the engine is cold and push out once it warms up. If you have the same model in the video, the self-propel cable has an adjustment on it near the bottom of the handle.
I had, actually still have but don't use, a 48" cut walk behind commercial Honda mower I used for about 20 years in my approximately 3 acre lawn until it caught fire and melted the intake manifold. Only time I ever had trouble starting it even after sitting during the winter months was when the throttle cable came lose at the carb and it wasn't actually going into choke mode. Used starter fluid for a few months until I finally took the time to look closer and see what the issue was. Put the cable back in place and never had any starting issue again....well....until the fire!
Thanks for the video, up and running again.
Great video! My big problem is trying to get the bolts screwed back on the motor. I've just spent at least 3hrs trying to screw them back on! I'm frustrated!
I find them difficult too :(. I resorted to using 2 wooden dowels that were kinda snug in the threaded holes on the manifold, got everything back in place and carefully removed one dowel, installed the original bolt and repeated for the 2nd side. It's a lot easier if the mower isn't on the ground for sure, I raise the carb side by stuffing the edge of a plastic milk crate under the deck to give me a better view.
Thanks for sharing this very valuable info. Much appreciated! Definitely subbed! 👍😊
Great video. Straightforward and simple.
Thank you. Worked perfect.
3:50
Dam you’re running away my business bro.
I’m jp thanks for the vid helped a ton
thanks for your video, it was the most thorough and easy to follow. I like my HRR2169VKA mower and have replaced the rear drive axle and gears. The drive belt was easy and YOUtUBE along with your video makes it simple and easy., I have subscribed and gave you a thumbs up.
I just got a hrr216k9vkaa , all starts and works ok, seems to have a slight surging constantly, any ideas on what problem may be? Thanks for posting this, ill remember if and when the day comes.
Any idea what year my model is?
If it is surging you can try cleaning the carburetor. There is a pilot and main jet. Most likely the pilot jet is clogged. The Honda carbs are usually cheap so if that doesn’t fix it I would grab a new carb.
Excellent video . Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, that’s exactly what mine is doing.
Great video, thanks mate.
Do you know of that part can be fixed? Eg. Is it just a lubrication issue?(can it be removed lubricated and reinstalled?)
Cheers
Unfortunately this part is not serviceable, once it starts to have issues it is best to replace it. The part is relatively cheap from Honda.
Having an issue where I replaced the carb, it starts and stays on but it feels like it’s not at full throttle or the engine is weak. The moment I run it over any grass it struggles to stay on. Keeping it on in the same position is no problem though.
Bryan, do you know what thread die I need to chase threads on crankshaft? My neighbor messed up first thread and can't thread new nut on it. Would be ashamed to throw mower away because of this. Hope you can help. TY.
I’m sorry I do not. If you still have the nut you can take it to the hardware store and find a bolt that will thread into to figure out the size.
@@benchnwrench good idea. TY
@@benchnwrench It was a M14 1.5
I ordered the correct tap & die. Rethreaded the crankshaft threads for flywheel nut. Had to use adjustable pliers. Did not have wrench to put die on it. Nut threads on now.
In this case it was stuck open, what if it is stuck to where is will barley open not giving enough air to the engine?
Question:
Will this part fit all GCV 160?
I have a Husqvarna with GCV 160 and I changed everything on that Rascal and still can't crank it.
Yes, if your GCV160 engine does not have a manual choke this should be the same setup.
That was very helpful, thank you.
I noticed your auto choke mechanism goes over the outside round portion of where thermostat sits. Mine does not do that and I'm having trouble with choke opening.
Thanks for the video! I need help in North Sacramento. Any info on a similar shop?
Great close-up video, thanks :)
Anyone else have their carb linkage, or throttle plate bind? Mine bound up with the throttle wide open. All I can think is that it may have happened from a backfire in the carb slamming the throttle plate and linkage as I had neglected winterizing the mower (dumb), and was using starter fluid. I freed the assembly up by pulling back and forth on the governor linkage. Now the governor doesn't seem as responsive. Any ideas at all appreciated.
thanks i need that have fun
Thank for video 👍
your a genius-but you probably knew that. Many thanks
Great video!
I have the same engine. Mine starts on the first pull but choke stays closed. If I stick a screw drive into the choke, it does open and mower runs fine. Do you think I need this thermowax thing?
What if my black and decker mower self propelled..my choke door had a little top piece of plastic over carb that has a spring that went haywire. It's a tiny tiny spring about inch or less long. But it helps open my carb door when you move the odd shape plastic piece above it..thr spring is on a small cylinder like piece of plastic. But there is several spots it could wrap around one or all 3 of the tiny cylinders of plastic. Only spring seems broken..... I can't figure out how it was on there previously to make my choke close.... I can't crank mower. I cleaned carb checked spark. It pull cord is fine with a rumble not a crank...
Good info in the video thanks!
What if the valve closes and thermowax look allright. can oil be the problem
I would try to spray some starting fluid in the carb intake. If it starts for a second then dies you will need to clean or replace the carb. You can also check for spark if it does not start.
Mine starts but have to reach in and help push choke mechanism so mower can run right. Second mower in a row with same symptom.
EXCELLENT 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Dang so easy if I could just find that 10 mm socket!
My mower starts fine when cold and the choke is closed. After running for a few minutes, the rpm's will go up and down a little. Once I shut it down, re-starting is hard or No-start at all.
I have a problem with my choke seemingly staying on, running rich. Could it be that valve too?
If your choke never opens and it is automatic, I would suspect the Thermowax. You may want to check that the carb choke arm is installed correctly too.
@@benchnwrench thanks. It's only had about half dozen uses, so it's never been worked on.
how often do i Need to get two
Mine has the GCV 170 and it’s never run well since new.
So I started the mower, the choke keeps flipping and then staying open, but it dies again on its own. The choke will eventually close on its own after I go away for a few minutes, only to repeat the process of dying on its own when I try to start it again. Any ideas?
Hello, it sounds like the engine may be dying from a lack of fuel. I would take the bowl off the carburetor and clean the jets. I will be making more videos soon how to do this. Although, an OEM Honda carburetor is relatively cheap and may be worth replacing depending on the condition inside.
Many thanks for doing this video.
Excellent!!!
Good Video
My lever had lost it's spring power and was basically useless, so the choke was stuck open. And the more I tried to start the engine unsuccessfully, gas would flood through and leak outside the air filter. I replaced the lever, spark plug and had to change oil(because the gas had leaked into it). The engine started to run very smooth at first, but as I was cutting grass it started to surge, is this related to me not installing the gaskets correctly or should the air filter be changed because gas once soaked. The air filter does not look dirty. I have a HRR2166VKA series, slightly different carburetor, but everything else is pretty much the same.
Any thoughts?
It could be a problem with the gaskets causing air to leak into the intake. You may also want to clean your carburetor. There should be a main jet and pilot jet. As the engine warms up it sounds like it is running lean and surging.
@@benchnwrench I fixed the problem, I think I had one of the gaskets the wrong way and I did not screw it tight enough. Once I did it correctly it ran better than ever.
That's a nice Honda.