This upgrade is definitely worth it. I had my reservations too but I'm too much of an audio nut to rely on the stock sub. If you follow this guide + my amp install that it is LIGHT years better than stock. I have a set of nice Focal KX2's that I'm dying to put into my car along with a Helix V8 DSP amp to REALLY boost the sound quality in my car. Just no time and funds to do it because I'm moving to a new garage and that has taken so much time and energy for me to do. That being said, future content coming to my channel will be so much better b/c I'll have better lighting and space to make better videos!
Nice video - so would you say adding an aftermarket sub made a 25%, 50%, 75% or so difference vs the OEM sub? Trying to see if spending the $100+ is worth my time.
Thank you so much for this video! I have a couple of questions I'm hoping you or one of the viewers can answer. 1) I bought an 8in kicker 2ohm shallow mount. The holes did not line up so I'm wondering what kind of bracket or adapter I'm supposed to buy. 2) I installed the subwoofer temporarily. Much better than the stock but something is wrong I think. At low volumes everything seems fine. Once I play a bass heavy song at about "30" on the volume level, the speakers just stop working. The subwoofer as well. No audio plays on any source, radio sxm etc. Idk if anyone has encountered something similar and if so, what could be the issue? Thanks to whoever answers. Edit: Forgot to mention that I have a 2019 civic hatchback sport touring. So it had a stock sub. Also, the audio comes back after I turn off and back on the car but goes away again if I play a bass heavy song.
OMG, I didn't see your comment until now! My bad. The answers. If the holes don't line up then make new ones. Just install a thin weatherstripping gasket between the sub mount and the enclosure so its tightly sealed. The audio cutting out is the amp protection circuit kicking in on the head unit. Volume level 30 on the stock head unit is quite high and its likely detecting clipping on the output and as a self preservation system, that the head unit just cuts the outputs to prevent speakers from getting blown or the head unit's amplifier outputs in check. If you're going to really drive the system hard you're probably better off investing in a DSP amplifier so that you decouple the loading on the factory head unit. I'm planning to do a DSP amp install on my Type R once I get some other things settled in.
Is that kicker a dual voice coil that you wired in parrellel? If so then the impedance is way too low for the headunit and is shutting down due to power spikes.
Yeah it will be in the fall when I have more time. Must spend time on other priorities. I have Type R interior ambient light install vid coming up real quick here.
Nicely done video. Couldn't you avoid cutting the factory sub wiring spade connectors by just using corresponding spade connectors on the wires coming from the new sub?
I could but was lazy to find the matching tiny lugs" on the factory wiring. If they were standard size spade lugs then I would've done that BUT I know for a fact that I will NOT be ever reinstalling the factory sub anyways so cutting off those connectors was a minor thing.
Yeah I've been trying to find the time to amp my Type R's sub but there are just so many things to do in a day that I barely have enough sleep most nights! It will come trust me..
Nice work! I followed the steps in your video and was able to remove the sub. I wonder if you know the per-channel output power of the stock amp and the power of the stock sub. I am considering to do a simple upgrade for the speakers and the sub, but since I don't know the output power of the stock amp, I have no idea what kind of speakers I should buy. Can the stock amp support 50W RMS speakers?
Well the factory head unit claims that they have over 542 watts of power divided across 12 speakers. Doing some simple math that is ~45 peak watts per channel (obviously some going more to the sub than say the tweeters). That isn't very much power and the power figures Honda quotes are PEAK watts not RMS watts. So in other words, adding amps to all the speakers will make a HUGE difference. having 50 watt RMS speakers don't really mean much as it is the power going to the speakers and how clean that power is that will determine (within reasonable limits) if your speaker will blow up or not. For example I have in many of my systems push well over 400 watts of RMS power into a little 35 watt speaker. Haven't even come close to blowing that little speaker up yet I've seen guys put 1 watt of really piss poor power to a speaker rated for 100 watts and have the speaker blow. Its all about how clean the power going to the speaker is.
Any benfit of doing a 4ohm like this over just getting a 2 ohm sub? Had someone tell me to add a little poly fill to factory sub box as well. Thoughts?
That's a great plan. The amp I used is pretty powerful as it is. Not sure how much more power you'd need when you can only fit (in stock form) a shallow mount 8" sub. There is a point of diminishing returns when you amp up (pun intended) the power too much.
b/c when you use an amp you have to pull signals from the sub wiring and by nature of how I have it setup (b/c I can easily roll back to 100% stock should I decide that one day). Sub swaps with no amp are very easy. Plug and play but when you introduce an amp, you need to pull signal to the amp and then feed the newly amplified signal BACK to the sub.
Great video bud and nice Type R . I don't have a Type are but this video gave a pretty good idea on how to wire the correctly my sub on my 2015 Si I have seen videos I have seen videos on how to add sub and amplyfier but not a single one on just upgrading the the stock sub with out extra S**t. Thanks again 👍
glad you liked my video! I plan to do another Type R video where I add an amp and an Audio Control LC2i with remote bass gain adjustment so that I can really open the power for that little 8" sub.
glad you like my car and my vid! Yeah most vids show people going all out doing sub and amp but I figured I'd try to see if a better sub would improve sound (it definitely did) but adding an amp is on my roadmap and I'd like to do a vid on that as well as talking about the before and after impressions of an amp addition with a stock head unit. Stay tuned!
I'm surprised the factory subwoofer was 2ohm. I have a 15 civic si and I want to do basically same idea, except using a 10" subwoofer bandpass box in the trunk. I want to use factory headunit to power it(not interested in full amp etc.). I'm worried the subwoofer will overload the headunit. Nice video.
yes I was surprised too but I suspect it is to extract as much power out of a stock stereo system. Using the stock stereo to drive a 10" sub without ANY external amplification is likely not going to work well. It barely worked well with an 8" sub so you may want to reconsider your options.
hmm, my reply is super late but I'm not sure if you can fit a sub that tall. The stock sub housing is quite shallow which is why I purchased a shallow sub. You COULD make the larger sub fit if you use a sufficiently sized spacer ring.
What made you decide on that specific speaker? Is there other options that you considered or know of people using that may potentially be even better? I saw that you said the oem was a little taller so maybe you had more space to go with something even bigger?
I chose that speaker b/c at the time other Civic enthusiasts deemed it a good fit. It had to be 8", had to be dual voice coil and it had to be a shallow mount. Tall order in my eyes for a sub that costs less than $150 USD. Rockford Fosgate makes a solid product (for the most part) and thus I landed on the sub that I did. I am considering moving up to a dual sub setup in my car (but not stock looking) b/c I want deeper bass but I might have to consider upgrading the door speakers first before dropping more on the bass portion of the audio spectrum. We will see... I want to keep my car as stock as humanly possible since I believe it will look the best and retain its long term value best.
@@piercedasian hmm that makes me think I wouldn't be satisfied with the factory drop in. I thought it'd be cool to have all the space if I went this route but I have a 12w7-3 in my current set up and feel like I'd be super underwhelmed with the small sub.
@@piercedasian also you pretty much have all the wiring done I believe to throw in another sub and if you try to resell the car you could just remove it without further modification to the car.
@@in4naptime yeah if you're running 12" w7 MK3's there is NO chance in hell that a drop in will come close to sounding as good as what you're used to listening to. Size and quality of the sub makes a HUGE difference as does the power you're feeding it. You are correct in that my setup today EASILY allows me to put in a boxed sub setup OR revert back to the OEM sub setup in a jiffy. It was why I setup my system the way I did because I wanted flexibility. With kids that space is always a premium so I have YET to go with the boxed sub route. Knowing what you're used to listening to that you're better off mimicking a portion of my setup (mainly amp and wiring) but wiring an externally boxed sub. I WISH I had a JL W7 in my car... man that would be bass bliss right there!
@@piercedasian I like how you have the Amp hidden away I've always wanted to hide it under the carpet but was also worried about the heat. Saw you mention in comments that with newer amps you don't have to really worry about that. Curious if I'd be able to get away with the same thing. In my current set up I opted to have the Amp mounted on top of my sub. I always hated having to worry about boxes sliding all around the trunk but luckily this one is heavy enough to stay put for the most part. Space isn't a hugeee concern to me since I'd have soo much more coming from a trunk to a hatch, just really like the idea of maximizing the space. Considering a custom enclosure.
Any idea on why my sub is giving me 0.8 ohms when I wire it exactly how you did. Also if I take the 2 wires off from positive to positive side of the bass and negative to negative from the bass and just have the 2 wires tapped into one side of the bass I do get 1.7 ohms but that is not how you did it. Wondering if I got a bad sub from the factory or not???
I figured out my own problem. I ordered the wrong sub. Looks like I need the dual 4ohm sub and not the dual 2ohm sub. Don’t be like me and order the wrong sub.
yep, the whole principle on how this is done is identical using the same equipment. You'll need to verify the sub size and location (or just put in an aftermarket one) to ensure that everything fits. It is a worth upgrade that doesn't cost too much to complete but makes a noticeable difference in how things sound.
Hii, I have a 2021 type R. Was wondering if this specific aftermarket speaker in your video is an upgrade from stock? I heard 2020+ models had upgraded speakers.. thanks!
yes, the sub is definitely an upgrade from the stock unit. As far as the audio system upgrades in the latest 2021 model the only change they made was they started piping in fake exhaust system sounds (similar to how VW's Golf R does it). To me, that is not an upgrade but a marketing shill. That being said, the R's cheapest and best upgrade in my opinion is swapping out the stock sub and either a shallow 8" (straight drop-in) or using an adapter ring and install a 10" sub. Sub performance is best with an aftermarket amp (I have a video that shows how I installed one). Enjoy your new car - it is truly a work of art and while I'm tempted to sell mine that I have a LOT of difficulty making that decision because its such a wonderful car.
Bass isn't exponentially better but definitely noticeably better. Best upgrade was the sub + external amp that all tied into the back in a tidy package.
yes adding an amp would make a significant difference even for a little 8" sub. The issue with the Honda headunit (as with all factory head units) is the lack of true RMS power. If you are patient enough i will be showing how to properly install an amp that will fit into the foam insert in the spare tire well along with an audio control LC2i line converter module with remote bass gain adjustment.
yes adding an amp would SIGNIFICANTLY improve the sub's performance. Stay tuned as I do intend to do a video install of an amp and then talking about the before and after amp upgrade in the 10th gen civic.
No. It's only an 8. No need for any more power than what the sub will take. All my buddies used to push 10 and 12" subs with 1000+ watt amps and my 2 10s would hit just as hard and sound better on just 300 watts. It's all about putting them in a properly sized enclosure and getting the amp tuned in correctly. Basically whatever specs the manufacturer gives you is what is going to yield the best results, you can play around with the numbers a little and possibly get a little better sound. I think the biggest hold back on this setup is going to be the factory enclosure.
Hello, I just came across your channel. I have a 2017 Honda Civic touring and I want to upgrade my speakers including my sub. My question is, is it the same setup with all civics as far as replacing the sub? Mine isn’t in an inclosed area. Mine is on the rear deck.
it will work but it won't be optimal and could sound like something is "missing". I have another video showing me installing an amp with the upgrade sub in this video. Search my channel and you'll see the proper way to do it.
You mentioned leaving the hole in the sub enclosure open for future to an aftermarket amp. I'm doing this install with a Rockford mono amp hooked up to the Rockford sub. You mentioned running one set of speaker wires from the sub to the amp and another set from the amp power to the sub. Do you happen to have a diagram of how this would wire up?
@@piercedasian I watched the video and I kinda get what you're saying but being as you're not using an aftermarket amp it's a little hard to envision where to connect the two sets of wires. I get one set goes directly into the speaker connection but does the other go in the rca output?
@@armyofone129 did you watch my amplifier install video on my channel? I asked this b/c in your reply you mention that I am not using an aftermarket amp and I am indeed running on. I just want to make sure you're aware I have 2 sub videos on my channel. One that is a sub only upgrade and another where I add the external amp. Basically what I did was instead of snipping off the factory sub connector that I just cut the wires off the stock sub inside the enclosure and joined a new set of wires to the wires I just snipped off the factory sub. From there I routed the spliced wires to my LC2i. Then from my amplifier's sub outputs I ran a set of speaker wires from my amp BACK to my sub enclosure and hooked it up to the new sub.
I don’t believe the LX has a factory sub as it doesn’t have the premium audio system. That is not to say you can’t add a factory sub or an aftermarket sub. The means in how you wore things up is fundamentally similar to how it is done in my video. You can always reach out to me via email at piercedasian@gmail.com to discuss ideas.
aftermarket sub is slightly tighter and it sounds better than stock but the biggest improvement was when I hooked up an aftermarket amp + LC2i signal out processor to the factory head unit.
Yep you definitely can buy the enclosure and the matching rear interior quarter panel but the problem is the wiring and how you’d tie that back to the head unit and make it all work properly. I would assume that being a Honda that most things are likely plug and play given the proper connections which can also be purchased from the dealership.
yeah it would be nice and Honda back in the day used to have near identical harnesses for all their cars. I remember when I added a/c to my CRX back in 2004 that it was plug and play.
When I initially did the sub swap I did not have an external amplifier. I did the sub only swap to see how much better it would sound with the stock amplifier. It did improve considerably but I did another video afterwards showing how to install a LC2i and external amplifier to really give the sub the power it truly needed to perform well.
I'm thinking about buying my sister in laws 2016 Civic EX-T Sedan do you know if it's possible (like is the wiring in place) to simply source an OEM subwoofer and hook it up or is this a start from scratch kinda thing?
that is unknown.... Honda USED to standardize all their wiring in their cars to make adding things in from higher trim models easy. I've read that in some cases that is still true but in many cases it is not. You will have to trove the internet for more information.
Just out of curiosity, why did you go with the Rockford sub? Will other 8 inch shallow subs potentially fit? Just doing a list of what I need here. Lol Bullet style connectors 14 gauge wire
I went with Rockford because the quality and performance and most importantly fitment was good. Price was reasonable too so it naturally made sense to go that route. I am sure there are better subs out there but I don’t have the time to mess with doing a pile of research and then trying to get it to fit. In hindsight I should’ve considered installing a spacer ring to the stock housing so I could get a deeper sub so that I can get lower frequencies but I am not complaining about the current setup.
@@piercedasian that makes sense. I was asking mostly given the price has gone up to about 169 USD so wasn't sure if you felt it was still worth that price. Once you actually added the amp did you get much better results? Looking to get the most bang for my buck without losing trunk space
Glad you liked the video. Yes I installed the amp quite a while back and the install instructions are on my channel. Just search for sub install on my channel and it should come up.
The price could very well have gone up since 2018. I remember specifically choosing that sub b/c it was ridiculously cheap and performs very good. Things have gone up a lot in cost as of recent so I'm not at all surprised that the price is $200 for the same exact sub.
@@johnfromschool I didn’t do the install on the 10” sub. I am saying that someone on civics made an adapter ring that allows you to install a 10” sub. What I made videos for are the sub swap and amp install.
You should try to exchange your sub for a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub unless you intend to run it on an amp that is 1 ohm stable. There are two ways you can wire your specific sub. If you wire your voice coils in series - voice coil 1 negative to voice coil 2 positive with the remaining terminals going to the amp then it will see a 4 ohm load. If you wire the sub in parallel - voice coil 1 positive to voice coil 2 positive and then to the positive on the amp and do the same for the negative terminals you will essentially create a 1 ohm load. With a 1 ohm load you have to make sure you have a sufficiently capable amp that can handle low impedance loads. Low impedances extract the most power out of a amp but if it isn't designed to handle it then you risk signal clipping and you can fry the sub and/or amp. If you wire it with the 4 ohm series connection method then ANY decent amp will run that load BUT at a sacrifice of not extracting every ounce of power out of your amp. This is why in my particular setup I went with a dual 4 ohm voice coils and wired them in parallel to get a 2 ohm load. My amp can EASILY manage a 2 ohm load without frying anything and I get decent performance out of my tiny Rockford amp. I hope that makes sense. Good luck and let me know what route you went with.
I don't understand why you would need a line out converter since you already have output for a sub. I'd think you could turn down the subwoofer lever in the settings on the factory head unit and then just use the existing subwoofer leads as your signal to the amp....maybe I'm wrong though.
Ah good question. It is because the modern car stereo has its own weird built in EQ system that apparently strips out and messes up the bass from the sub signal (yeah that sounds ridiculous but it’s true) so the purpose of the LC2i is to restore that missing bass signal and convert into a line out signal that can used by the amp which them can drive whatever sub you’d like. If you hooked up a sub that was 2 ohms impedance straight to the sub wires like how I did in my first sub replacement video then all will work just fine. It is just when you add an amp with no line out converter that it apparently goes all wonky.
Just picked up a 2019 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport Touring. I also plan on replacing the stock sub. Purchased a Kicker CompRT43CWRT81 and noticed that the impedance is 1 ohm. Can I get this to work to match the original stock 2 ohm impedance? If so, how? Many thanks!
Eddie Vega I want to ask, I’m planning on getting the EXACT car and I’m curious about the stock sound system. How is it? I’m not a audiophile so I’m not very picky, but overall does it sound like the title says, being premium? And does it have any issue connecting with Apple car play/android audio like the phone lagging or the car not recognizing your phone? Thank you
John a 1 Ohm sub will NOT work properly with the factory head unit. You'll be putting too much load on the stock amplifier outputs in the head unit. You will unfortunately need to either go with external amplification or replace the sub with the proper impedance. I personally suggest going the external amp route as it made a substantial improvement to the car's sound and it hardly broke the bank.
Stock sound system overall isn't too bad at low to moderate levels but don't expect it to sound great at loud volumes. I find the power output of the head unit lacking relative to going to external amplification but even for an audio junkie like myself all I did was upgrade the stock sub and threw an amp in to drive the new sub. Exponentially better. Android auto seems okay and airplay works reliably.
no the rear oem sub signal doesn't provide power to power on a device. It merely is a signal line. You can power the LC7i using the same power feed as what you pulled from the battery back to the amp.
Glad you liked my video. I don't have a video for the civic LX subwoofer install as I haven't had anyone ask me to remove it. I would presume that it is pretty easy to complete.
I did this exactly how you did it.. and The bass sound lower then the stock.. and I hear a weird sound coming off.. I tried different way with the cables and the same. The only thing is I think my wire is 12 gauge
hmm, a 12 gauge wire likely wouldn't cause issues like that. What kind of amp are you running and are you absolutely certain that everything is setup IDENTICAL? Even the slightest variance in how wiring is setup can really wreak havoc on the system. You can send detailed (and clear pictures) to piercedasian@gmail.com and I can help you troubleshoot.
@@eltrati19 im not running an amp. Im just trying to get clean lows from my sub vs stock there's no lows at all. I'm going to try to other setting today. If not i'm going to send my sub back. Might just be bad sub.
It is because the stock head unit (prior to me installing an amp) drives a 2-ohm sub load. The model you suggested run in parallel would result in a 1-ohm load which is too low for a stock amplifier. If going aftermarket amp then yes, the a dual 2 ohm voice coil could work.
You can actually fit a 10" into the stock sub location by installing a spacer ring. If you go to civicX.com and look up a user named "CTRMOFO" he was building this ring and selling them for the 10th gen civic so that users could put in a larger sized sub while retaining the stock appearance.
Well I put in a Rockford sub in mine because it fit perfectly and it had good balance of value and performance. There are other brands you could buy and the sky is the limit but I stuck with what I knew would fit my needs and budget.
I could but most of the items uses were simple parts from an auto store. When I have time this week I will start adding links to all the tools and parts I used in all my videos so it is easier for others to buy exactly what I used to get the job done right.
Yes it does. My buddy has a EXT as well and his amp and sub install was almost identical to mine. This is the sub I used and it is a perfect drop in replacement that has the same impedance (dual voice coil wire in series) that will match perfectly with your stock amp. amzn.to/2R2p221
that's because your amplifier is clipping. Do not turn it that loud again otherwise you will blow your speakers or fry the headunit. If you want to go that loud you will need to add external amplification.
Interesting. I wonder if you could mod yours with a civic that does have the sub. Unfortunately all 10th gen civics I have worked on all have subs in them (I am in Canada).
piercedasian yes mate! The thing is base model and Civic RS (10th gen) hav 12 speakers and Subwoofer, and civic type R has 8. I think the best way to do now is get the Sub from one of those and have someone to install it, cuz i have to idea of wiring! Maybe it gonnna work!
Its really hard to record the bass differences on a simpleton lapel mic and even a high dynamic range mic isn't going to do ANY sub any justice. I am working on a "descriptive" video on what I notice between the stock and factory sub. Just haven't had time to edit and post my ramblings on my channel yet. Stay tuned.
this is why I cut the wires inside the sub box b/c I know I'd never replace the stock sub AND the little short pigtail can be replaced with a new honda part. I would never cut the wires on the larger main harness. This was probably the least invasive way of installing a system that won't have any potential connection failure points.
You did a fantastic job making this video. Thank you for also converting measurements for us in the USA
You are so welcome!
About to do my 24 accord and was nervous but I have all the parts and this video made me confident about mine, thanks boss
Wow man what a great tutorial. Very helpful and very good explanations. This will probably take me hours but at least I have this as a guide lol.
This upgrade is definitely worth it. I had my reservations too but I'm too much of an audio nut to rely on the stock sub. If you follow this guide + my amp install that it is LIGHT years better than stock. I have a set of nice Focal KX2's that I'm dying to put into my car along with a Helix V8 DSP amp to REALLY boost the sound quality in my car. Just no time and funds to do it because I'm moving to a new garage and that has taken so much time and energy for me to do. That being said, future content coming to my channel will be so much better b/c I'll have better lighting and space to make better videos!
that was so helpful - thank you! can't wait to do this!!
I think you'll like the sub swap. I know I did. Next is an amplifier install for mine.
Nice video - so would you say adding an aftermarket sub made a 25%, 50%, 75% or so difference vs the OEM sub? Trying to see if spending the $100+ is worth my time.
Thanks for the video. This was a super easy swap.
You're most welcome. Glad you found the video useful!
Amazing DIY man!! I definitely will be following this again when my sub comes in.
Glad you liked the video. Hopefully your install went well!
Thank you so much for this video! I have a couple of questions I'm hoping you or one of the viewers can answer.
1) I bought an 8in kicker 2ohm shallow mount. The holes did not line up so I'm wondering what kind of bracket or adapter I'm supposed to buy.
2) I installed the subwoofer temporarily. Much better than the stock but something is wrong I think. At low volumes everything seems fine. Once I play a bass heavy song at about "30" on the volume level, the speakers just stop working. The subwoofer as well. No audio plays on any source, radio sxm etc. Idk if anyone has encountered something similar and if so, what could be the issue? Thanks to whoever answers.
Edit: Forgot to mention that I have a 2019 civic hatchback sport touring. So it had a stock sub. Also, the audio comes back after I turn off and back on the car but goes away again if I play a bass heavy song.
OMG, I didn't see your comment until now! My bad. The answers. If the holes don't line up then make new ones. Just install a thin weatherstripping gasket between the sub mount and the enclosure so its tightly sealed. The audio cutting out is the amp protection circuit kicking in on the head unit. Volume level 30 on the stock head unit is quite high and its likely detecting clipping on the output and as a self preservation system, that the head unit just cuts the outputs to prevent speakers from getting blown or the head unit's amplifier outputs in check. If you're going to really drive the system hard you're probably better off investing in a DSP amplifier so that you decouple the loading on the factory head unit. I'm planning to do a DSP amp install on my Type R once I get some other things settled in.
Is that kicker a dual voice coil that you wired in parrellel? If so then the impedance is way too low for the headunit and is shutting down due to power spikes.
looking forward to the lc2i install. Im looking to go this route as well. either that or getting the dedicated rockford punch amp for the sub.
Yeah it will be in the fall when I have more time. Must spend time on other priorities. I have Type R interior ambient light install vid coming up real quick here.
Nicely done video. Couldn't you avoid cutting the factory sub wiring spade connectors by just using corresponding spade connectors on the wires coming from the new sub?
I could but was lazy to find the matching tiny lugs" on the factory wiring. If they were standard size spade lugs then I would've done that BUT I know for a fact that I will NOT be ever reinstalling the factory sub anyways so cutting off those connectors was a minor thing.
I cant wait for the amp install... will subscribe.
Yeah I've been trying to find the time to amp my Type R's sub but there are just so many things to do in a day that I barely have enough sleep most nights! It will come trust me..
Nice work! I followed the steps in your video and was able to remove the sub. I wonder if you know the per-channel output power of the stock amp and the power of the stock sub. I am considering to do a simple upgrade for the speakers and the sub, but since I don't know the output power of the stock amp, I have no idea what kind of speakers I should buy.
Can the stock amp support 50W RMS speakers?
Well the factory head unit claims that they have over 542 watts of power divided across 12 speakers. Doing some simple math that is ~45 peak watts per channel (obviously some going more to the sub than say the tweeters). That isn't very much power and the power figures Honda quotes are PEAK watts not RMS watts. So in other words, adding amps to all the speakers will make a HUGE difference. having 50 watt RMS speakers don't really mean much as it is the power going to the speakers and how clean that power is that will determine (within reasonable limits) if your speaker will blow up or not. For example I have in many of my systems push well over 400 watts of RMS power into a little 35 watt speaker. Haven't even come close to blowing that little speaker up yet I've seen guys put 1 watt of really piss poor power to a speaker rated for 100 watts and have the speaker blow. Its all about how clean the power going to the speaker is.
Nice video,
As the stock head unit run on 2 ohm, is that possible to use the 2 ohm sub, rathen then by pass the 4 ohm?
Any idea Thanks.
Any benfit of doing a 4ohm like this over just getting a 2 ohm sub?
Had someone tell me to add a little poly fill to factory sub box as well. Thoughts?
I'm going to do this but reinforce the box a little with fiber glass and do a more powerful amp
That's a great plan. The amp I used is pretty powerful as it is. Not sure how much more power you'd need when you can only fit (in stock form) a shallow mount 8" sub. There is a point of diminishing returns when you amp up (pun intended) the power too much.
Could you give me the specific information about the subwoofer so I can buy it?
U know when a man take a job seriously when he’s on flip flops😎
nice weather requires nice airy footwear :)
Why do you have it wired differently in you other video with the anp install?
b/c when you use an amp you have to pull signals from the sub wiring and by nature of how I have it setup (b/c I can easily roll back to 100% stock should I decide that one day). Sub swaps with no amp are very easy. Plug and play but when you introduce an amp, you need to pull signal to the amp and then feed the newly amplified signal BACK to the sub.
Great video bud and nice Type R . I don't have a Type are but this video gave a pretty good idea on how to wire the correctly my sub on my 2015 Si I have seen videos I have seen videos on how to add sub and amplyfier but not a single one on just upgrading the the stock sub with out extra S**t. Thanks again 👍
glad you liked my video! I plan to do another Type R video where I add an amp and an Audio Control LC2i with remote bass gain adjustment so that I can really open the power for that little 8" sub.
glad you like my car and my vid! Yeah most vids show people going all out doing sub and amp but I figured I'd try to see if a better sub would improve sound (it definitely did) but adding an amp is on my roadmap and I'd like to do a vid on that as well as talking about the before and after impressions of an amp addition with a stock head unit. Stay tuned!
Fantastic video. I love you! Hopefully this will help my 2019 Type R sound better. I literally get no bass from my stock sub. it's yucky.
Glad I could help!
I'm surprised the factory subwoofer was 2ohm. I have a 15 civic si and I want to do basically same idea, except using a 10" subwoofer bandpass box in the trunk. I want to use factory headunit to power it(not interested in full amp etc.). I'm worried the subwoofer will overload the headunit. Nice video.
yes I was surprised too but I suspect it is to extract as much power out of a stock stereo system. Using the stock stereo to drive a 10" sub without ANY external amplification is likely not going to work well. It barely worked well with an 8" sub so you may want to reconsider your options.
Awesome video, thanks so much for posting. Do you think a 4.63" mounting depth sub would fit in the stock spot? Hoping to install an 8W3v3-4.
hmm, my reply is super late but I'm not sure if you can fit a sub that tall. The stock sub housing is quite shallow which is why I purchased a shallow sub. You COULD make the larger sub fit if you use a sufficiently sized spacer ring.
@@piercedasian Good tip, thanks!
What made you decide on that specific speaker? Is there other options that you considered or know of people using that may potentially be even better? I saw that you said the oem was a little taller so maybe you had more space to go with something even bigger?
I chose that speaker b/c at the time other Civic enthusiasts deemed it a good fit. It had to be 8", had to be dual voice coil and it had to be a shallow mount. Tall order in my eyes for a sub that costs less than $150 USD. Rockford Fosgate makes a solid product (for the most part) and thus I landed on the sub that I did. I am considering moving up to a dual sub setup in my car (but not stock looking) b/c I want deeper bass but I might have to consider upgrading the door speakers first before dropping more on the bass portion of the audio spectrum. We will see... I want to keep my car as stock as humanly possible since I believe it will look the best and retain its long term value best.
@@piercedasian hmm that makes me think I wouldn't be satisfied with the factory drop in. I thought it'd be cool to have all the space if I went this route but I have a 12w7-3 in my current set up and feel like I'd be super underwhelmed with the small sub.
@@piercedasian also you pretty much have all the wiring done I believe to throw in another sub and if you try to resell the car you could just remove it without further modification to the car.
@@in4naptime yeah if you're running 12" w7 MK3's there is NO chance in hell that a drop in will come close to sounding as good as what you're used to listening to. Size and quality of the sub makes a HUGE difference as does the power you're feeding it. You are correct in that my setup today EASILY allows me to put in a boxed sub setup OR revert back to the OEM sub setup in a jiffy. It was why I setup my system the way I did because I wanted flexibility. With kids that space is always a premium so I have YET to go with the boxed sub route. Knowing what you're used to listening to that you're better off mimicking a portion of my setup (mainly amp and wiring) but wiring an externally boxed sub. I WISH I had a JL W7 in my car... man that would be bass bliss right there!
@@piercedasian I like how you have the Amp hidden away I've always wanted to hide it under the carpet but was also worried about the heat. Saw you mention in comments that with newer amps you don't have to really worry about that. Curious if I'd be able to get away with the same thing. In my current set up I opted to have the Amp mounted on top of my sub. I always hated having to worry about boxes sliding all around the trunk but luckily this one is heavy enough to stay put for the most part. Space isn't a hugeee concern to me since I'd have soo much more coming from a trunk to a hatch, just really like the idea of maximizing the space. Considering a custom enclosure.
Any idea on why my sub is giving me 0.8 ohms when I wire it exactly how you did. Also if I take the 2 wires off from positive to positive side of the bass and negative to negative from the bass and just have the 2 wires tapped into one side of the bass I do get 1.7 ohms but that is not how you did it. Wondering if I got a bad sub from the factory or not???
I figured out my own problem. I ordered the wrong sub. Looks like I need the dual 4ohm sub and not the dual 2ohm sub. Don’t be like me and order the wrong sub.
Great video. Would this work with the 2022 Civic Sport Touring Hatchback?
yep, the whole principle on how this is done is identical using the same equipment. You'll need to verify the sub size and location (or just put in an aftermarket one) to ensure that everything fits. It is a worth upgrade that doesn't cost too much to complete but makes a noticeable difference in how things sound.
Hii, I have a 2021 type R. Was wondering if this specific aftermarket speaker in your video is an upgrade from stock? I heard 2020+ models had upgraded speakers.. thanks!
yes, the sub is definitely an upgrade from the stock unit. As far as the audio system upgrades in the latest 2021 model the only change they made was they started piping in fake exhaust system sounds (similar to how VW's Golf R does it). To me, that is not an upgrade but a marketing shill. That being said, the R's cheapest and best upgrade in my opinion is swapping out the stock sub and either a shallow 8" (straight drop-in) or using an adapter ring and install a 10" sub. Sub performance is best with an aftermarket amp (I have a video that shows how I installed one). Enjoy your new car - it is truly a work of art and while I'm tempted to sell mine that I have a LOT of difficulty making that decision because its such a wonderful car.
Hey great video man how does it sound, is the bass actually better also do you get vibrations or rattling
Bass isn't exponentially better but definitely noticeably better. Best upgrade was the sub + external amp that all tied into the back in a tidy package.
Hey mate. Awesome video. Super helpful!! Do you think adding the amp would make a remarkable difference to the sound being that it’s just an 8”?
yes adding an amp would make a significant difference even for a little 8" sub. The issue with the Honda headunit (as with all factory head units) is the lack of true RMS power. If you are patient enough i will be showing how to properly install an amp that will fit into the foam insert in the spare tire well along with an audio control LC2i line converter module with remote bass gain adjustment.
yes adding an amp would SIGNIFICANTLY improve the sub's performance. Stay tuned as I do intend to do a video install of an amp and then talking about the before and after amp upgrade in the 10th gen civic.
No. It's only an 8. No need for any more power than what the sub will take. All my buddies used to push 10 and 12" subs with 1000+ watt amps and my 2 10s would hit just as hard and sound better on just 300 watts. It's all about putting them in a properly sized enclosure and getting the amp tuned in correctly. Basically whatever specs the manufacturer gives you is what is going to yield the best results, you can play around with the numbers a little and possibly get a little better sound. I think the biggest hold back on this setup is going to be the factory enclosure.
@@piercedasian have you installed an after market amp to that fosgate sub?
Does anyone know the depth of the factory sub? Or the maximum depth of the factory box?
Hello, I just came across your channel. I have a 2017 Honda Civic touring and I want to upgrade my speakers including my sub. My question is, is it the same setup with all civics as far as replacing the sub? Mine isn’t in an inclosed area. Mine is on the rear deck.
the basic principle is the same. Location might be different but the impedance and wiring is fundamentally the same for the most part.
Hey im curious if i were just to put an amp in with the stock unit. What that work??
it will work but it won't be optimal and could sound like something is "missing". I have another video showing me installing an amp with the upgrade sub in this video. Search my channel and you'll see the proper way to do it.
You mentioned leaving the hole in the sub enclosure open for future to an aftermarket amp. I'm doing this install with a Rockford mono amp hooked up to the Rockford sub. You mentioned running one set of speaker wires from the sub to the amp and another set from the amp power to the sub. Do you happen to have a diagram of how this would wire up?
if you watch my amp installation video I have a crude diagram in my video that shows exactly what you seek.
@@piercedasian I watched the video and I kinda get what you're saying but being as you're not using an aftermarket amp it's a little hard to envision where to connect the two sets of wires. I get one set goes directly into the speaker connection but does the other go in the rca output?
@@armyofone129 did you watch my amplifier install video on my channel? I asked this b/c in your reply you mention that I am not using an aftermarket amp and I am indeed running on. I just want to make sure you're aware I have 2 sub videos on my channel. One that is a sub only upgrade and another where I add the external amp. Basically what I did was instead of snipping off the factory sub connector that I just cut the wires off the stock sub inside the enclosure and joined a new set of wires to the wires I just snipped off the factory sub. From there I routed the spliced wires to my LC2i. Then from my amplifier's sub outputs I ran a set of speaker wires from my amp BACK to my sub enclosure and hooked it up to the new sub.
@@piercedasian I didn't see the 2nd one. I'll go watch it.
You know if the Civic sedan lx sub is in that same location or is there no sub on the lx trim?
I don’t believe the LX has a factory sub as it doesn’t have the premium audio system. That is not to say you can’t add a factory sub or an aftermarket sub. The means in how you wore things up is fundamentally similar to how it is done in my video. You can always reach out to me via email at piercedasian@gmail.com to discuss ideas.
Is there a noticeable difference from stock to this even without an amplifier? Just looking for a little extra punch
aftermarket sub is slightly tighter and it sounds better than stock but the biggest improvement was when I hooked up an aftermarket amp + LC2i signal out processor to the factory head unit.
I have a '19 civic hatch EX, I wonder if the factory sub enclosure can be purchased from somewhere and if it can be installed.
Yep you definitely can buy the enclosure and the matching rear interior quarter panel but the problem is the wiring and how you’d tie that back to the head unit and make it all work properly. I would assume that being a Honda that most things are likely plug and play given the proper connections which can also be purchased from the dealership.
@@piercedasian The head units are all the same but as you said it'll come down to wiring. It would be awfully nice of them to have pre-run wire.
yeah it would be nice and Honda back in the day used to have near identical harnesses for all their cars. I remember when I added a/c to my CRX back in 2004 that it was plug and play.
Hey bud, Awesome video just wondering if this will work on the 2016 Honda Civic
Yes it will
piercedasian Thank you, liked and subscribed
Hi there! What model is this Rockford Fosgate? Can you provide the model #?
That’s easy. It is a Rockford Fosgate P3SD48
piercedasian cool! I was going to ask as well ;)
I kinda want to buy a civic type r just to do this upgrade
you could get away with a civic sport touring but admitted the Type R is pretty killer fun.
do u have an amplifier during the time you installed the new sub? thanks
When I initially did the sub swap I did not have an external amplifier. I did the sub only swap to see how much better it would sound with the stock amplifier. It did improve considerably but I did another video afterwards showing how to install a LC2i and external amplifier to really give the sub the power it truly needed to perform well.
piercedasian thank u sir 😊
I'm thinking about buying my sister in laws 2016 Civic EX-T Sedan do you know if it's possible (like is the wiring in place) to simply source an OEM subwoofer and hook it up or is this a start from scratch kinda thing?
that is unknown.... Honda USED to standardize all their wiring in their cars to make adding things in from higher trim models easy. I've read that in some cases that is still true but in many cases it is not. You will have to trove the internet for more information.
Just out of curiosity, why did you go with the Rockford sub? Will other 8 inch shallow subs potentially fit?
Just doing a list of what I need here. Lol
Bullet style connectors
14 gauge wire
I went with Rockford because the quality and performance and most importantly fitment was good. Price was reasonable too so it naturally made sense to go that route. I am sure there are better subs out there but I don’t have the time to mess with doing a pile of research and then trying to get it to fit. In hindsight I should’ve considered installing a spacer ring to the stock housing so I could get a deeper sub so that I can get lower frequencies but I am not complaining about the current setup.
@@piercedasian that makes sense. I was asking mostly given the price has gone up to about 169 USD so wasn't sure if you felt it was still worth that price. Once you actually added the amp did you get much better results? Looking to get the most bang for my buck without losing trunk space
thanks for the video! Did you install and amp yet?
Glad you liked the video. Yes I installed the amp quite a while back and the install instructions are on my channel. Just search for sub install on my channel and it should come up.
Found it! Again thanks for the detailed video. Would the Rockford speaker still sound good just by having the amp without the LC2i?
This sub is now $200 in Amazon. Is it the same exact model as yours ($115 in 2018)?
Or is this one on the link a newer version? Thanks
The price could very well have gone up since 2018. I remember specifically choosing that sub b/c it was ridiculously cheap and performs very good. Things have gone up a lot in cost as of recent so I'm not at all surprised that the price is $200 for the same exact sub.
Can't seem to find your video on the 10inch sub install. Do you have the link available? Thanks! Subbed
@@johnfromschool I didn’t do the install on the 10” sub. I am saying that someone on civics made an adapter ring that allows you to install a 10” sub. What I made videos for are the sub swap and amp install.
I have the P3SD2-8 sub, do I need to do the criss/cross positive to positive/ negative to negative on mine also? Thanks
You should try to exchange your sub for a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub unless you intend to run it on an amp that is 1 ohm stable. There are two ways you can wire your specific sub. If you wire your voice coils in series - voice coil 1 negative to voice coil 2 positive with the remaining terminals going to the amp then it will see a 4 ohm load. If you wire the sub in parallel - voice coil 1 positive to voice coil 2 positive and then to the positive on the amp and do the same for the negative terminals you will essentially create a 1 ohm load. With a 1 ohm load you have to make sure you have a sufficiently capable amp that can handle low impedance loads. Low impedances extract the most power out of a amp but if it isn't designed to handle it then you risk signal clipping and you can fry the sub and/or amp. If you wire it with the 4 ohm series connection method then ANY decent amp will run that load BUT at a sacrifice of not extracting every ounce of power out of your amp. This is why in my particular setup I went with a dual 4 ohm voice coils and wired them in parallel to get a 2 ohm load. My amp can EASILY manage a 2 ohm load without frying anything and I get decent performance out of my tiny Rockford amp. I hope that makes sense.
Good luck and let me know what route you went with.
Just by doing this with no amp rating 1-10 how much better is it?
I did say in the video that the upgrade was definitely worth it so at least a 6. With an amp easily a 11/10 :)
I don't understand why you would need a line out converter since you already have output for a sub. I'd think you could turn down the subwoofer lever in the settings on the factory head unit and then just use the existing subwoofer leads as your signal to the amp....maybe I'm wrong though.
Ah good question. It is because the modern car stereo has its own weird built in EQ system that apparently strips out and messes up the bass from the sub signal (yeah that sounds ridiculous but it’s true) so the purpose of the LC2i is to restore that missing bass signal and convert into a line out signal that can used by the amp which them can drive whatever sub you’d like. If you hooked up a sub that was 2 ohms impedance straight to the sub wires like how I did in my first sub replacement video then all will work just fine. It is just when you add an amp with no line out converter that it apparently goes all wonky.
Did just this with my JL MicroSub in my '15 Si before I bought my Type R. Worked very well!
Just picked up a 2019 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport Touring. I also plan on replacing the stock sub. Purchased a Kicker CompRT43CWRT81 and noticed that the impedance is 1 ohm. Can I get this to work to match the original stock 2 ohm impedance? If so, how? Many thanks!
Eddie Vega I want to ask, I’m planning on getting the EXACT car and I’m curious about the stock sound system. How is it? I’m not a audiophile so I’m not very picky, but overall does it sound like the title says, being premium? And does it have any issue connecting with Apple car play/android audio like the phone lagging or the car not recognizing your phone? Thank you
John a 1 Ohm sub will NOT work properly with the factory head unit. You'll be putting too much load on the stock amplifier outputs in the head unit. You will unfortunately need to either go with external amplification or replace the sub with the proper impedance. I personally suggest going the external amp route as it made a substantial improvement to the car's sound and it hardly broke the bank.
Stock sound system overall isn't too bad at low to moderate levels but don't expect it to sound great at loud volumes. I find the power output of the head unit lacking relative to going to external amplification but even for an audio junkie like myself all I did was upgrade the stock sub and threw an amp in to drive the new sub. Exponentially better. Android auto seems okay and airplay works reliably.
Great video. Thanks. I’ll add a amp for the sub too. Thanks!!!
Good luck. I'm installing my amp in my type R tomorrow and doing a video on it. Hoping to post my installation within a week's time.
Thank you! Can’t wait for your video
Hello, so I’m installing an aftermarket sub, amp and LC7i in my civic sport hatch as well. Can I tap into the rear OEM subwoofer to power my LC7i??
no the rear oem sub signal doesn't provide power to power on a device. It merely is a signal line. You can power the LC7i using the same power feed as what you pulled from the battery back to the amp.
It's amazing, nice job 8D
Do you have a how to remove subwoofer for Honda Civic IX?
I need help to achieve this work ;)
successful continuation ;)
Glad you liked my video. I don't have a video for the civic LX subwoofer install as I haven't had anyone ask me to remove it. I would presume that it is pretty easy to complete.
Is that Rockford Fostgate a 2 ohm or 8ohm subwoofer?
2 ohms. If you search my channel you will find more civic type R videos including installation of the sub, amp, and LC2i.
How’s the sub holding up? Any issues?
Zero issues. In fact I was giving it a good beating just this week. Sounds decent for a drop in replacement :)
piercedasian you have a link to the speaker?
I will update it in the video's description right now.
I did this exactly how you did it.. and The bass sound lower then the stock.. and I hear a weird sound coming off.. I tried different way with the cables and the same. The only thing is I think my wire is 12 gauge
hmm, a 12 gauge wire likely wouldn't cause issues like that. What kind of amp are you running and are you absolutely certain that everything is setup IDENTICAL? Even the slightest variance in how wiring is setup can really wreak havoc on the system. You can send detailed (and clear pictures) to piercedasian@gmail.com and I can help you troubleshoot.
I have similar issues. My system audio just shut ofg
2easymode that’s exactly what happens idk what’s wrong
piercedasian not running a amp.. your running an amp?
@@eltrati19 im not running an amp. Im just trying to get clean lows from my sub vs stock there's no lows at all. I'm going to try to other setting today. If not i'm going to send my sub back. Might just be bad sub.
Why didn't you use P3SD2-8?
It is because the stock head unit (prior to me installing an amp) drives a 2-ohm sub load. The model you suggested run in parallel would result in a 1-ohm load which is too low for a stock amplifier. If going aftermarket amp then yes, the a dual 2 ohm voice coil could work.
Where did you get the bullet connectors?
any auto parts store should have them. In Canada you'd buy them at.... Canadian Tire!
I need to find a OEM part but obviously custom that can fit a 10”
You can actually fit a 10" into the stock sub location by installing a spacer ring. If you go to civicX.com and look up a user named "CTRMOFO" he was building this ring and selling them for the 10th gen civic so that users could put in a larger sized sub while retaining the stock appearance.
@@piercedasian thank you
Good thing I kept the part I might just sell the 8” sub by itself
@@piercedasian couldn’t find it, mind helping me
Do you know if the civic hatchback sport has that same pocket for a subwoofer?
It should because my brother in-law's sport touring does...
piercedasian yeah , i have the sport, it it does not come with anything
Hello, what subwoofer do you recommend for the civic X sedan?
Well I put in a Rockford sub in mine because it fit perfectly and it had good balance of value and performance. There are other brands you could buy and the sky is the limit but I stuck with what I knew would fit my needs and budget.
@@piercedasian
do you have a link to this sub? Or what are its dimensions and performance.
could you link the wires and tools you used in this video?
I could but most of the items uses were simple parts from an auto store. When I have time this week I will start adding links to all the tools and parts I used in all my videos so it is easier for others to buy exactly what I used to get the job done right.
Your bad ass man Thankyou🙏🙏🙏
Thanks!
does my EXT have a amp? Can i just swap the subwoofer? Mines sound busted
Yes it does. My buddy has a EXT as well and his amp and sub install was almost identical to mine. This is the sub I used and it is a perfect drop in replacement that has the same impedance (dual voice coil wire in series) that will match perfectly with your stock amp. amzn.to/2R2p221
How come I have a smallcracking sound and when I turn up my volume to 28. It just dies. I have fk8 2019. Same set up as yours. Sub no amp.
that's because your amplifier is clipping. Do not turn it that loud again otherwise you will blow your speakers or fry the headunit. If you want to go that loud you will need to add external amplification.
Awesome my friend.👍🏾
Man you watch every single one of my videos? Amazing!
Thanks for your consistent support!
glad you liked my vid!
I wonder if a 10" can fit???
yes it can but you'll need to cut your factory sub grill and also install a spacer ring to accommodate for the increase size and depth of a 10" sub.
Could you give me the specific information about the subwoofer so I can buy it?
Is it possible to put a 10" in it..?
You cannot install a 10” sub into the stock enclosure because the hole won’t accommodate it unless you do some custom cutting and retrofitting.
nice Fluke!!
lol you like the Fluke meter do you? I should do a video of all the Flukes I have and how I've cleaned them up to look better than new.
what's the model of the sub?
If you look in the description you will see it.
I don't think i cant do same thing with my Fk8, Australia model does not have Subwoofer
Interesting. I wonder if you could mod yours with a civic that does have the sub. Unfortunately all 10th gen civics I have worked on all have subs in them (I am in Canada).
piercedasian yes mate! The thing is base model and Civic RS (10th gen) hav 12 speakers and Subwoofer, and civic type R has 8. I think the best way to do now is get the Sub from one of those and have someone to install it, cuz i have to idea of wiring! Maybe it gonnna work!
I just want hear the bass diference🙈👀
Its really hard to record the bass differences on a simpleton lapel mic and even a high dynamic range mic isn't going to do ANY sub any justice. I am working on a "descriptive" video on what I notice between the stock and factory sub. Just haven't had time to edit and post my ramblings on my channel yet. Stay tuned.
@@piercedasian ok ty 4 u video
Why not just get 2 spades and make extensions instead of cutting wires.... never cut wires
this is why I cut the wires inside the sub box b/c I know I'd never replace the stock sub AND the little short pigtail can be replaced with a new honda part. I would never cut the wires on the larger main harness. This was probably the least invasive way of installing a system that won't have any potential connection failure points.
??? no sound dampening mat no nothing ???
No the sub isn't that powerful enough to really warrant the need for it. No rattles or anything aside from improved sound.
All this time and u didn’t even show ya how it sounded smh
ruclips.net/video/EGIgbritX7A/видео.html
You need to specify it isn't for coupe. Wasted my time watching beginning of this vid^
Sorry I didn’t realize that they were different. I will update the title accordingly.