Buy a new tank. Seriously. You'll never get the original clean enough, and for the cost.(about $80-100 at Rock auto) it will be worth your time to avoid trying to clean it!
the escape alternator is almost as bad as the alternator on a 2.3T SAAB 9-5 with the 150A alternator. that requires removing the passenger CV axle, upper engine mount, slamming a bolt extractor in the allen key headed bottom bolt that always strips out, connected to your impact gun with 3' of extensions because there's no room for it anywhere near the alternator... oh, and then you can't get the unbolted alternator out without DROPPING THE FRONT SUBFRAME BECAUSE IT'S TOO BIG TO FIT THROUGH ANY OF THE AVAILABLE OPENINGS.
Living in california my whole life.... it's unbelievable how much rust you guys get on your vehicles. We don't even see that much corrosion on 100 year old cars!
you should see my 5 year old subaru... that's been oil undercoated pretty much every winter. calcium chloride and magnesium chloride are no fucking joke when it comes to steel, aluminum, magnesium... but especially steel.
If I ever by a used car worth more than my shoes, I've already decided that I'm flying out west to do it. The rust game in our part of the country is no joke, but used car prices are pretty much national. No way I'm shelling out like $20k+ on anything from around my neck of the woods.
@Fishermanguy44 try living in the UK, annual safety inspections called an M.O.T, which includes an emissions check. You can have a decent exhaust though, but it cant be too loud or else the car will fail the test.
Alot of those jeeps had issues with the solder connections in the ecm loosing contact when warm causing strange sysptoms like misfires stumbles no starts
yesss, more jeep. Been kinda looking foward to this one, i kinda like it. Also is that car named 'Cheep'? As in cheap jeep? Cuz if yes, that is an amazing project name
Had a 1994 jeep Cherokee with very similar issues with cutting out and missing. Ended up being the ignition system replace the rotar cap wires and spark plugs
That is something we will check into if the sending unit doesn't sort it out, but the inside of the cap and the rotor looked good, couldn't find any arcing from the wires, and the plug that we pulled (I think we did that, I could be misremembering) didn't show any signs of issues. Doesn't mean there aren't any there, though.
I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo! It had a gas tank/gauge issue! Sometimes the gas gauge works and sometimes it doesn’t. It runs and drives perfect and I can’t wait to be driving it as it needs a new tire. I love these videos.
You may have fixed the issue already but check the injectors and make sure there flowing good. Especially from the nasty crud from before. Jeep injectors are known for blocking up. They have a 1 hole design. Aftermarket ones have a 4 hole design for better distribution and atomization
Fuel pressure regulators typically run on vacuum so that would make sense if it was stuck it wouldn't supply enough at high rpm. But that said, I know with Honda's when they fail, it's usually stuck open and the car runs pig rich 24/7 so I'm not sure how they fail on jeeps, I suppose the sputtering could also be too much fuel so I guess it makes sense either way.
My 98 Jeep had this problem and it was solved by changing the regulator in the tank. Buy the whole assembly so you know pressure and level indicator works. Should be 42psi-50psi.
My 94 Cherokee did something similar at high RPMs, I replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, Throttle Position Sensor, and the O2 Sensor, which fixed the problem
I’ve got an extra battery hold down from a 99 Cherokee hanging on my garbage can in the shop, stop by and grab it! Swap in some Mustang GT fuel injectors (94 I believe) and that’ll take care of that stumble and swap out the sending unit and regulator and it’ll run fine!
I think I would have replaced that alternator at the first sign that it was locked up. Apparently you guys don't have my luck which would have been the jeep snapping and throwing the belt when I was the maximum distance from home, at night, in winter. I hope that fuel pump and sender assembly resolves the issues. I have a feeling that it will. I have considered getting a cherokee as a daily driver to keep miles off of my ZL1 but after seeing how stuff is crammed in that engine bay i'm reconsidering my selections.
Idk about that.. I have a 2010 CR-V and had to replace the accesssory belt after the AC compressor seized up and the belt snapped. trying to put a new belt on was a pain in the ass to do
My Cherokee did the exact same thing. I ended up splitting the wire harness and finding wires that looked melted together. Also reran all of my grounds to the motor and added another ground from the body to the engine block. Been running great for three years now!
First 16 minutes, and untold months of this video are spent faffing around avoiding replacing an alternator, and burning up an accessory belt they never actually replace. Are you guys poor, or lazy? Little bit of both?
Locked up alternator is common on all Cherokee's. It's very low on the engine and most are missing the rubber splash shield to help keep out dirt and water.
My 92 xj had the same issue. It started out as a miss around 3000-3200 rpm. It bugged the hell out of me and i couldnt find the source of it at first. After changing the fuel pressure regulatior, crank position sensor, distributor pickup sensor, plugs, wires cap and rotor, fuel filter, i couldnt fix the issue. I checked fuel pressures at the rail, leakdown and compression tests so it wasnt any burnt valves either. I kept driving it and as time went on that rpm range got broader and broader to the point itd do it at any rpm and any load. Long story short, i ended up having a lifter wear into the camshaft and chew up a lobe. After the new cam and new set of lifters, its a brand new truck. Hopefully this isnt your issue as its not too expensive to do, its just a pain. Great vids by the way!
Honestly it wouldn't be too surprising if that was the issue, when we first started it up there was no oil getting to the valvetrain for at least 30 seconds (until revving it) so that plus 150k miles may well have done some damage. Will have to keep that in mind!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects And a tip for you, if you do end up needing to do this, take the head and manifolds off as one assembly. Sure it will weigh about 100lbs so have a friend with you. Use a long 2x4 and a chain bolted to two of the rocker pedestals so you and a friend can lift it up while you both stand on the side of the car. Much easier removal and installation than having to juggle two manifolds at once . Used this trick with my xj and my buddys zj. Good luck!
Just finished swapping the engine of a 1995 Cherokee 2.5 diesel, the infamous VM Motori diesel. Old engine spat the nr4 connecting rod through the block! Now at midnight nov30, the "new" engine is in, after swapping the pump and everything over from the old engine, since the new engine was drive by wire
BTW my dad had a 95 would randomly stop going above 35mph or 3500 rpm. It ended up being the catalytic converter, the element was loose inside and would move and clog the pipe. From this video it might not seem to be the case but just throwing it out there because you can check it with a few hits and hearing for it.
Since the exhaust pipe has rusted off and is nonexistent behind the cat it is pretty easy to check, we looked through it with a flashlight and everything appeared to be looking good inside of it. Though, I can't remember WHEN we checked it. Will have to double check on that now that it is stumbling
There was a TSB I think on those xjs about the heat off the exhaust manifold causing the fuel injector on cylinder #3 or #4 sticking and causing a misfire.
Check for a leak in the intake manifold gasket. T hat can cause the let down at higher rpm's. It may be sucking too much air. I had this happen on my old GTO.
Steve Richardson if you have the 300 straight six, it is. You can stand on the frame rail on both sides of the motor no problem. Did it all the time until that transmission hit the dust at 395k miles and I scrapped it.
My '97 Jeep Wrangler had a problem that seems to be like your Jeep. After swapping out several parts, it turned out to be the O2 sensor. That worked, no stumble since then. my mechanic said it was the second time he had ever seen an O2 sensor do that.
Interesting! We haven't really looked at the sensors with the engine running and driving using a scan tool yet. Certainly should be worth a try, thanks for the tip!
I would change the cap, rotor and cables for the distributor. I had a similar stumble on a 97 wrangler. It would never throw a code, but just fall on it's face randomly at high RPM. I ordered the tune up kit "just because", not thinking it would fix it, and it hasn't happened since.
I would have just replaced the alternator knowing it was bad...it's worth not even messing with it and throwing a new belt on it to while you got the alternator off
It would have to have a fuel return line added, the fuel rail changed to accept a regulator. Though, the lines are super rusty and should be replaced anyway so it wouldn't be the worst idea. That's the main reason though, it wouldn't be entirely plug-and-play.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects my question is based solely on the "if you have to fix it, upgrade" mentality. Not trying to be a d-bag about how to skin a cat. Great vids, keep em coming.
@1701gijoe that is really good to know. Doesn't change that I would've replaced the entire fuel system with a junkyard donor just to get rid of an obvious failed beta test of parts in a single model year.
@David Lewis Not to disagree with the general statement that 2300 isn't "high" RPMs, but you want to be shifting a stock 4.0 at no more than 5k (and mine feels like its out of power at 4500 or so)... The red line on mine is 5,200. I had to rewind the video to see his dash again and I have no idea what optimist decided to factory install a 7,000 RPM tach in that XJ.
I got a ? 4 U....on my 97 xj ....my truck stalls when she reaches operating temp....it cranks n cranks n finally starts....the last time I drove it I had to rev the snot out of it to get me home....my main prob is my scanner won't read my jeep....it loads half way n then kicks me out...i have no engine light though
It's fascinating how close, but so far away, changing alternators on that XJ vs. my TJ is... I wouldn't have thought they'd be that much different, but the XJ is way worse... I just did a TJ alternator replacement on my channel a couple of months back if you're interested. Also... Years ago my TJ was acting somewhat like that with the hesitation (though being a stick, it seemed much worse) and it ended up being my forward O2 not being _quite_ out of range, but operating on the low side of it and never throwing a code. It took me months to find that problem and I still can't believe an O2 would have done that (especially given all of the rusty plow trucks I've seen driving around with the O2s literally swinging in the wind).
I just replaced the alternator in my XJ recently and it was super easy, removing the bracket it mounts to makes it way easier to remove, I didn't have to remove the mechanical fan to get it out.
That job is waaaaaaaay easier if you do it all from the bottom. You don't have to remove the battery or anything else you just take the bolts holding the wires and alternator itself on turn it sideways and drop it straight out the bottom then do it all in reverse. 10 minute job.
From the looks of the sending unit, that gas tank is complete garbage. I wouldn't stick an old fart in it, much less a new sending unit/regulator/discontinued expensive part. What is that Gen III GM motor going in, the blazer? *smiles devilishly*
My old '98 XJ did something similar a couple of times. First time it was the TPS but only after it warmed up. The second time sucked as it was the cat that broke apart inside and plugged up. Of course, I was 3 and a half hours away from home. It took about 6 hours to get back what with the having to stop to let it cool down. The more gas I gave it the higher the backpressure got so the slower I'd go.
I was told the same after I replaced my CPS with aftermarket ( Standard brand ) rather than Mopar. Seems to be working ok though. It's surely quite a basic sensor - I can't see why a reputable aftermarket brand would crap out - but we shall see ..
I had the exact same thought about the compressor when editing this video, it looked brand new. Didn't really think about it at the time since we were in a hurry and really just there for the other parts. In hindsight though, d'oh
I will never get why just not replace the belt while you have everything removed... it's a cheap part, replacement is time-consuming. Just why? After working on my old cars for a while I started to value my time more and I just replace/check everything around when I do some big job because I don't want to touch it again soon. Especially with the XJ...
Sometimes you've got more time than dollars and this is clearly a spare vehicle for the owner. Looks like the guy is just trying to have some fun with it from time to time and not break the bank. I've been there on all counts before. Considering how young most of these guys are, I'm all about them doing anything that puts a wrench in their hands. Good stuff no matter how it turns out!
Shoulda just replaced the alternator months ago, that and change your fuel pump/regulator. Probably cant keep up with the demand at high end and it leans out.
We didn't have anything to replace it with at first, and not a lot of money to spare for this project (though we had to shell out for that fuel sending unit eventually). We were more interested in diagnosing the engine stumble, that was the plan every time we looked at it since it seemed more pressing, but the alternator kept getting in the way.
Interesting, thanks for the tip! That fuel pump is a pretty cheap model and we are replacing the whole thing with the fuel sending unit so hopefully that takes care of the issue either way.
Buy a new tank. Seriously. You'll never get the original clean enough, and for the cost.(about $80-100 at Rock auto) it will be worth your time to avoid trying to clean it!
aerosol can money ain’t free
Now you know why people are willing, in fact enthusiastic, about giving you a 'free Jeep'.
Especially a 96 Jeep.
The "free Jeep" is going to provide way more RUclips content for them in the future. Just Every Electrical Problem.....
@@nealelliott Oh yes. This was a hay day of Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep "quality" (lack thereof).
I got rid of mine but would take free jeeps any day. Especially XJ's and WJ's.
the escape alternator is almost as bad as the alternator on a 2.3T SAAB 9-5 with the 150A alternator. that requires removing the passenger CV axle, upper engine mount, slamming a bolt extractor in the allen key headed bottom bolt that always strips out, connected to your impact gun with 3' of extensions because there's no room for it anywhere near the alternator... oh, and then you can't get the unbolted alternator out without DROPPING THE FRONT SUBFRAME BECAUSE IT'S TOO BIG TO FIT THROUGH ANY OF THE AVAILABLE OPENINGS.
Living in california my whole life.... it's unbelievable how much rust you guys get on your vehicles.
We don't even see that much corrosion on 100 year old cars!
psygn0sis Yea, it sucks. It can get a lot worse too. You are truly blessed with no rust.
you should see my 5 year old subaru... that's been oil undercoated pretty much every winter. calcium chloride and magnesium chloride are no fucking joke when it comes to steel, aluminum, magnesium... but especially steel.
If I ever by a used car worth more than my shoes, I've already decided that I'm flying out west to do it. The rust game in our part of the country is no joke, but used car prices are pretty much national. No way I'm shelling out like $20k+ on anything from around my neck of the woods.
I live in PA and cars rust horribly here anytime I’ve had to get a new car it’s never been the drivetrains it’s always been the car corroding away 😂
@Fishermanguy44 try living in the UK, annual safety inspections called an M.O.T, which includes an emissions check. You can have a decent exhaust though, but it cant be too loud or else the car will fail the test.
I wonder, in the life of a large flat-head screwdriver, how often it's used for its intended purpose. Not very, is my guess.
Its a chisel, a pry bar and a scraper more than its a screwdriver for me
Holy cow. Why in the world did you guys fight that alternator for so long?
Poor planning and a lack of money, mostly. Also procrastination.
It vids like this that make me justify my own money pit. TY
Nail polish on a jeep, equivalent to lipstick on a pig. 😁👍 but iit sounds like you had fun driving around.
My boys f150 stumbled at higher rpms. Changed the plugs and the ignition coil on the 3rd cylinder. Cleared it right up.
Yup my 4.6 explorer did the same thing fell flat on its face after 3500 new plugs and wires fixed her right up
@@whydoihave6neutrals772 I got a good chuckle out of your name.
Holy shit this morning I rewatched last 4 episodes on this thing amd wondered what happened to it
the binge-watching gods were kind to you
Alot of those jeeps had issues with the solder connections in the ecm loosing contact when warm causing strange sysptoms like misfires stumbles no starts
yesss, more jeep. Been kinda looking foward to this one, i kinda like it.
Also is that car named 'Cheep'? As in cheap jeep? Cuz if yes, that is an amazing project name
I have cheap jeep Episodes on my channel
Had a 1994 jeep Cherokee with very similar issues with cutting out and missing. Ended up being the ignition system replace the rotar cap wires and spark plugs
That is something we will check into if the sending unit doesn't sort it out, but the inside of the cap and the rotor looked good, couldn't find any arcing from the wires, and the plug that we pulled (I think we did that, I could be misremembering) didn't show any signs of issues. Doesn't mean there aren't any there, though.
I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo! It had a gas tank/gauge issue! Sometimes the gas gauge works and sometimes it doesn’t. It runs and drives perfect and I can’t wait to be driving it as it needs a new tire. I love these videos.
You may have fixed the issue already but check the injectors and make sure there flowing good. Especially from the nasty crud from before. Jeep injectors are known for blocking up. They have a 1 hole design. Aftermarket ones have a 4 hole design for better distribution and atomization
Fuel pressure regulators typically run on vacuum so that would make sense if it was stuck it wouldn't supply enough at high rpm. But that said, I know with Honda's when they fail, it's usually stuck open and the car runs pig rich 24/7 so I'm not sure how they fail on jeeps, I suppose the sputtering could also be too much fuel so I guess it makes sense either way.
My 98 Jeep had this problem and it was solved by changing the regulator in the tank. Buy the whole assembly so you know pressure and level indicator works. Should be 42psi-50psi.
My 94 Cherokee did something similar at high RPMs, I replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, Throttle Position Sensor, and the O2 Sensor, which fixed the problem
I have also suggested forward O2 since my TJ was doing something similar and that was the cure.
My 96 did the same thing tps was the problem
I mean, could always just replace the alternator
Why does everything have to be such a chore? One word answer ...... "maintenance"
I’ve got an extra battery hold down from a 99 Cherokee hanging on my garbage can in the shop, stop by and grab it! Swap in some Mustang GT fuel injectors (94 I believe) and that’ll take care of that stumble and swap out the sending unit and regulator and it’ll run fine!
I think I would have replaced that alternator at the first sign that it was locked up. Apparently you guys don't have my luck which would have been the jeep snapping and throwing the belt when I was the maximum distance from home, at night, in winter. I hope that fuel pump and sender assembly resolves the issues. I have a feeling that it will. I have considered getting a cherokee as a daily driver to keep miles off of my ZL1 but after seeing how stuff is crammed in that engine bay i'm reconsidering my selections.
A heat shield under the fuel rail can help. I'm pretty sure the same generation grand Cherokee with the 4.0 has a fuel rail heat shield
I have the same year XJ, really a fairly easy vehicle to work on and reliable as all hell. Love my Cherokee!
There's an Australian in our midst
I would be been terryfied driving that rust bucket ,. The cab is it attached to the frame
No frame. Unibody.
After watching what you went through...I love my Honda's!
Idk about that.. I have a 2010 CR-V and had to replace the accesssory belt after the AC compressor seized up and the belt snapped. trying to put a new belt on was a pain in the ass to do
My Cherokee did the exact same thing. I ended up splitting the wire harness and finding wires that looked melted together. Also reran all of my grounds to the motor and added another ground from the body to the engine block. Been running great for three years now!
First 16 minutes, and untold months of this video are spent faffing around avoiding replacing an alternator, and burning up an accessory belt they never actually replace. Are you guys poor, or lazy? Little bit of both?
What kind of electric ratchet is that and where did you get it? It seems to have good power
Ah, Jeep, the heroin of cars. At least they seem to have floorboards
I love projects like this but i will say that replacing cheap parts is a must. A belt does not cost that much. And plzzzz clean as u go.
Sounds kinda like valve float. Weak valve springs cause that. Or...could be the regulator.
Locked up alternator is common on all Cherokee's. It's very low on the engine and most are missing the rubber splash shield to help keep out dirt and water.
My 92 xj had the same issue. It started out as a miss around 3000-3200 rpm. It bugged the hell out of me and i couldnt find the source of it at first. After changing the fuel pressure regulatior, crank position sensor, distributor pickup sensor, plugs, wires cap and rotor, fuel filter, i couldnt fix the issue. I checked fuel pressures at the rail, leakdown and compression tests so it wasnt any burnt valves either. I kept driving it and as time went on that rpm range got broader and broader to the point itd do it at any rpm and any load. Long story short, i ended up having a lifter wear into the camshaft and chew up a lobe. After the new cam and new set of lifters, its a brand new truck. Hopefully this isnt your issue as its not too expensive to do, its just a pain. Great vids by the way!
Honestly it wouldn't be too surprising if that was the issue, when we first started it up there was no oil getting to the valvetrain for at least 30 seconds (until revving it) so that plus 150k miles may well have done some damage. Will have to keep that in mind!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects And a tip for you, if you do end up needing to do this, take the head and manifolds off as one assembly. Sure it will weigh about 100lbs so have a friend with you. Use a long 2x4 and a chain bolted to two of the rocker pedestals so you and a friend can lift it up while you both stand on the side of the car. Much easier removal and installation than having to juggle two manifolds at once . Used this trick with my xj and my buddys zj. Good luck!
Just finished swapping the engine of a 1995 Cherokee 2.5 diesel, the infamous VM Motori diesel. Old engine spat the nr4 connecting rod through the block! Now at midnight nov30, the "new" engine is in, after swapping the pump and everything over from the old engine, since the new engine was drive by wire
BTW my dad had a 95 would randomly stop going above 35mph or 3500 rpm. It ended up being the catalytic converter, the element was loose inside and would move and clog the pipe. From this video it might not seem to be the case but just throwing it out there because you can check it with a few hits and hearing for it.
Since the exhaust pipe has rusted off and is nonexistent behind the cat it is pretty easy to check, we looked through it with a flashlight and everything appeared to be looking good inside of it. Though, I can't remember WHEN we checked it. Will have to double check on that now that it is stumbling
21:28 Do you want anti-seize? - Meeeh
Awesome man. I live in Baltimore. What part of Maryland do you live in ?
In-line 6 is almost indestructible.
There was a TSB I think on those xjs about the heat off the exhaust manifold causing the fuel injector on cylinder #3 or #4 sticking and causing a misfire.
The stumble may also be something in the ignition
But I’d definitely run a fuel pressure gauge to see if it’s a fuel issue
Check for a leak in the intake manifold gasket. T hat can cause the let down at higher rpm's. It may be sucking too much air. I had this happen on my old GTO.
Great informative videos and sooooo entertaining... Look forward to the fuel tank/sender unit video...... Thanks👍🏻
You gotta really wiggle it to get it out without taking anything off !!
Suddenly the engine bay on my 94 F150 seems cavernous...
I'm wondering how you could have felt it wasn't cavernous before...?
Steve Richardson if you have the 300 straight six, it is. You can stand on the frame rail on both sides of the motor no problem. Did it all the time until that transmission hit the dust at 395k miles and I scrapped it.
@@MegaDysart oof...at least tell me she was rusty🙁
My '97 Jeep Wrangler had a problem that seems to be like your Jeep. After swapping out several parts, it turned out to be the O2 sensor. That worked, no stumble since then. my mechanic said it was the second time he had ever seen an O2 sensor do that.
Interesting! We haven't really looked at the sensors with the engine running and driving using a scan tool yet. Certainly should be worth a try, thanks for the tip!
That alternator is fuckin mint
I would change the cap, rotor and cables for the distributor. I had a similar stumble on a 97 wrangler. It would never throw a code, but just fall on it's face randomly at high RPM. I ordered the tune up kit "just because", not thinking it would fix it, and it hasn't happened since.
I would have just replaced the alternator knowing it was bad...it's worth not even messing with it and throwing a new belt on it to while you got the alternator off
Parts of this sound like a teenage girl pajama party
Why not just retrofit a 97 fuel sender into the 96?
It would have to have a fuel return line added, the fuel rail changed to accept a regulator. Though, the lines are super rusty and should be replaced anyway so it wouldn't be the worst idea. That's the main reason though, it wouldn't be entirely plug-and-play.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects my question is based solely on the "if you have to fix it, upgrade" mentality. Not trying to be a d-bag about how to skin a cat. Great vids, keep em coming.
@1701gijoe that is really good to know. Doesn't change that I would've replaced the entire fuel system with a junkyard donor just to get rid of an obvious failed beta test of parts in a single model year.
i would agree with your diagnosis. it sounds like a bad fuel regulator not supplying enough pressure at high rpms
@David Lewis Not to disagree with the general statement that 2300 isn't "high" RPMs, but you want to be shifting a stock 4.0 at no more than 5k (and mine feels like its out of power at 4500 or so)... The red line on mine is 5,200. I had to rewind the video to see his dash again and I have no idea what optimist decided to factory install a 7,000 RPM tach in that XJ.
I got a ? 4 U....on my 97 xj ....my truck stalls when she reaches operating temp....it cranks n cranks n finally starts....the last time I drove it I had to rev the snot out of it to get me home....my main prob is my scanner won't read my jeep....it loads half way n then kicks me out...i have no engine light though
It's fascinating how close, but so far away, changing alternators on that XJ vs. my TJ is... I wouldn't have thought they'd be that much different, but the XJ is way worse... I just did a TJ alternator replacement on my channel a couple of months back if you're interested.
Also... Years ago my TJ was acting somewhat like that with the hesitation (though being a stick, it seemed much worse) and it ended up being my forward O2 not being _quite_ out of range, but operating on the low side of it and never throwing a code. It took me months to find that problem and I still can't believe an O2 would have done that (especially given all of the rusty plow trucks I've seen driving around with the O2s literally swinging in the wind).
I just replaced the alternator in my XJ recently and it was super easy, removing the bracket it mounts to makes it way easier to remove, I didn't have to remove the mechanical fan to get it out.
I clicked on this video thinking it was the latest from D & E In the Garage. I've rarely been so happy to be wrong.
Nice, ive been waiting for an update on the jeep
That job is waaaaaaaay easier if you do it all from the bottom. You don't have to remove the battery or anything else you just take the bolts holding the wires and alternator itself on turn it sideways and drop it straight out the bottom then do it all in reverse. 10 minute job.
The future is... up in the air? Sounds like a big lift is coming!
From the looks of the sending unit, that gas tank is complete garbage. I wouldn't stick an old fart in it, much less a new sending unit/regulator/discontinued expensive part.
What is that Gen III GM motor going in, the blazer? *smiles devilishly*
My old '98 XJ did something similar a couple of times. First time it was the TPS but only after it warmed up. The second time sucked as it was the cat that broke apart inside and plugged up. Of course, I was 3 and a half hours away from home. It took about 6 hours to get back what with the having to stop to let it cool down. The more gas I gave it the higher the backpressure got so the slower I'd go.
What juck yard you guys went at? And i own a 2001 jeep grand Cherokee LAREDO and im learning from robs misery but to the best of you guys and thanks
I was told the same after I replaced my CPS with aftermarket ( Standard brand ) rather than Mopar. Seems to be working ok though. It's surely quite a basic sensor - I can't see why a reputable aftermarket brand would crap out - but we shall see ..
thank you for the video, im turned off from Jeep Cherokee i think for life.
Put it on Craigslist.
God damn! Only 207K subs? Come on people, subscribe to this channel! I want him to quit his job and only do YT! Please i beg of you!
After seeing this, especially with all the rust, I’m kinda glad I live in a warm area.
17:10 That is not actually the voltage regulator. The voltage regulator is in the ECM. That black plastic thing is just an isolator for those wires.
Check the fuel filter has the gas moving through it the right way
God just stop driving it, it's rusted to hell I know it could be worse but that's bad even in Pennsylvania standards.
I hate how much maryland salts our roads.
We dont need that much salt!!! Jesus
Should have pulled the AC condenser from the junkyard Cherokee. That one looked pretty good. Great videos here. Thanks!
I had the exact same thought about the compressor when editing this video, it looked brand new. Didn't really think about it at the time since we were in a hurry and really just there for the other parts. In hindsight though, d'oh
You guys should give a wash to the poor thing :(
It has been washed pretty well a few times, unfortunately it sits under trees and gets dirty again instantly
If this jeep has a maf sensor, mass air flow, this could also be the culprit... Just a thought 👍😎
Luckily no MAF on the 4.0.
My grandmas Jeep did the stumbling thing off and on for years then just fixed itself.
“None of this is usable footage” *uses it anyway*
Why do you never use WD-40 or something on rusty bolts? It really helps, no lie!
Why would you waste so much time on an obviously junk alternator?🤔
No one is saying "first"? Fair enough I'll be the asshole. * F I R S T*
Love the new profile pic ❤️❤️👊
Thanks for noticing!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects ~subscribe to my channel so we can be sub Buddies 😂🤘~
That nail polish, " stranger things " woulda been a good name for the jeep.
just did this today and this is a real help. managed to get the alternator in and out without taking the fan off though.
Love the videos , but ou WD40 helps a lot before tackling the bolts it’s 5$ come on ahah 😄
alternator can come out the bottom.. lol I never pulled the battery tray or fan doing these
Have you tryed some 02 Sensor that could be part probably
I will never get why just not replace the belt while you have everything removed... it's a cheap part, replacement is time-consuming. Just why? After working on my old cars for a while I started to value my time more and I just replace/check everything around when I do some big job because I don't want to touch it again soon. Especially with the XJ...
Sometimes you've got more time than dollars and this is clearly a spare vehicle for the owner. Looks like the guy is just trying to have some fun with it from time to time and not break the bank. I've been there on all counts before.
Considering how young most of these guys are, I'm all about them doing anything that puts a wrench in their hands. Good stuff no matter how it turns out!
Wow Happy Holidays to you Folks thanks
try new plugs
Shoulda just replaced the alternator months ago, that and change your fuel pump/regulator. Probably cant keep up with the demand at high end and it leans out.
We didn't have anything to replace it with at first, and not a lot of money to spare for this project (though we had to shell out for that fuel sending unit eventually). We were more interested in diagnosing the engine stumble, that was the plan every time we looked at it since it seemed more pressing, but the alternator kept getting in the way.
Maybe check the fuel pump wiring?
Sean’s camera skills are great
It’s almost like it’s in limp mode
Yes, finally another look at the XJ, I have a 1995 XJ and I love the crap out of it!
I own a 97 and I agree absolutely love it but it's out of commission because it need a new computer
Yeah. New video!
Cut the kats off of it to much back pressure there stopped up
So, so much old paint and rust
YES! MOOOORE JEEEEEEP!
the stumble is the fuel pump getting hot and not pumping the right pressure, i've had the same problem before
Interesting, thanks for the tip! That fuel pump is a pretty cheap model and we are replacing the whole thing with the fuel sending unit so hopefully that takes care of the issue either way.
Sounds like a bad spark plug wire...
Probably your Cat converter