Just a nice video on termination. As stated the inspector can't see copper/aluminum to satisfy their concerns of no insulation. Usually we will expose 1/8" all is happy. 😮
I'm in the elevator industry, dealing with everything from 25 AWG to 3-0 wire, from 6 to 480v, and our general practice is: Allow no exposed conductor more than ½ of the conductor diameter. Allow no insulation to be pinched by the lug connector.
after the mill in my area had a very expensive shutdown due to a motor single phasing and cooking off, their requirement was 1/16-1/8 inch visible copper between the lug and the insulation. also, got a warning from an HVAC guy not to leave Milwaukee Packout trays with the custom cut foam out in direct sunlight. they can heat up enough to damage the foam.
Excellent video. It shows some good examples on how not to do it. Your rule-of-thumb about being able to touch the bare conductor with your finger is a good tip. Well done!
This has always been a pet peeve of mine. Seems many old timers used to leave a lot of bare wire exposed on breakers and main lugs. I get to find and dodge them while servicing panels. I especially see it on number 10 , 8 and 6 going into breakers.
@3:31 it's perfect. the allen wrench to tighten the lugs into position holes are also a good way to check voltage in the future, also you don't know what person is coming after you (installing whatever) and you don't want to be held accountable for their wire crossing (your) bare copper if* it shorts. the name of the game is called "cover your butt" in electrical.
I would like to see more use of ferrules, as is done in industrial control panels and in Europe. Then the problem of exposed copper and loose strands is greatly reduced.
Great content,great learning experience. Kind of surprised that it is not mentioned in the NEC manual. It did help So I'm assuming a 16th of an inch should be about perfect?
The inspector being able to see that the jacket isn't under the lug point is one I did not think about. My thought on these things is to always reduce the chance that someone can stick their finger on raw copper, but this makes sense too. Keeping it professional is always a good thing though to prove your legitimacy to an inspector in case you want to keep things as clean as possible.
Obtaining clarity from the manufacture Siemens was the right path to take. The NEC states that listed equipment shall be installed according to manufacture's instructions. As the code is rather silent on the matter of how much copper to expose, doing the install per the Siemen's instructions makes the job to code standards.
Hello, thanks for Info. I have question. Wiring a Single pole 20 amp switch, for a 6 gal water heater. What do you do with the Neutral and ground. (Feed wire's) & Load wires that need Neutral & Ground. I'm not a Electrician as you can tell. Thanks
Interesting topic. I've always kept it closer to the 1/16" look of phase C, and never like A or B. BTW, those are "conductors", not "cables". A cable is an assembly of multiple conductors in one sheath (like "romex", "MC", or "SJO" cable). Those are simply [individual] conductors in the loadcenter. Also, how much "copper" should be showing? Hmmm... What if you're using aluminum conductors? Therefore, how much "bare excess conductor" should be showing... would be the correct question. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Three-phase alternating current (AC) power is commonly used to deliver electricity to data centers as well as commercial and industrial buildings that house power-hungry machinery. There's good reason for that, because 3-phase power can deliver more power with greater efficiency, as opposed to single-phase AC power.
Hey Bill, I added a subpanel box next to my main panel. The subpanel will serve 2 mini split air conditioners. However the the romex that will power them will be routed through the main panel and then terminate into the subpanel. Would you strip the romex to those A/Cs as it enters the main panel or would you pass it through and only strip the insulation as it enters the subpanel which it will terminate in? Thanks
@@kenbrown2808 My thinking is if I keep the insulation on them then those wires are clearly identified as just passing through using the main box as a junction box, however the other aspect is they will look out of place. I don't thing there is a right or wrong way just wanted to see what Bill's opinion on the subject would be.
@@hippo-potamus if you can feed them neatly through, you can use cable ties to bundle them, so it is clear they all pass straight through. and that would be optimum.
I would leave enough Romex jacket on so that I could write on it "mini-split A/C" with a sharpie but strip the jacket off the rest of it. I agree with Ken on keeping it neat.
A good rule of thumb is to leave the minimum amount of exposed wire after stabbing it to maximum depth and contact. You dont want the insulation interfering That can be measured and the jacket or insulation stripped to that length. My guide is to reduce to a minimum any chance of short circuiting exposed copper to ground.
The only reason for copper to show is so you know the insulation isnt being pinched by the lug. Its the inspector that wants to see. Edit and you covered it. Also what was that yellow tool you used??
Many breakers and devices DO have strips gauges or measurements making it a requirement. Uncommon sense says not to display bare conductor much past the lug or terminations closest edge where Murphy can do something ignorant.
There is a fine line between making your work look good BUT also not take a lot of time to do it. the BEST way i have been shown was to put the wire in the lug, mark the insulation at the top of the lug and cut the insulation off and slip a heat shrink over it (color coded) apply electrical grease (no-ox) then install and torque then heat the heat shrink up tight to the lug. the inspector can see it perfectly. wrapping electrical tape takes too much time and trying to do a nice clean job takes too much time and this is a NICE compromise
Hi Bill, a British sparky here. Do the manufacturers of such pieces of equipment not specify how much in terms of length a conductor should be stripped by? I am merely curious is all.
@SparkyChannel Please dont think I am having trying to argue with you, I am just trying to learn a bit here, but shouldnt the NEC or UL listing bods make it rule for these manufacturers to list cable stripping/torque values etc in their paperwork?
The first installation is not only shoddy with respect to the amount of copper stripped, but they didn't even install the color coded wires into their proper phase position.
Just a nice video on termination. As stated the inspector can't see copper/aluminum to satisfy their concerns of no insulation. Usually we will expose 1/8" all is happy. 😮
Thanks so much! Yes, I agree with 1/8".
Phase 1 just scares me. Phase 2 still looks like an oops, but I'd really only ever want to see phase 3
I agree I try to show minimal copper in general
Let's just say that I was inspired to make this video. My intention is just to give a helping hand.
I'm in the elevator industry, dealing with everything from 25 AWG to 3-0 wire, from 6 to 480v, and our general practice is:
Allow no exposed conductor more than ½ of the conductor diameter.
Allow no insulation to be pinched by the lug connector.
Excellent! Thanks Robert!
after the mill in my area had a very expensive shutdown due to a motor single phasing and cooking off, their requirement was 1/16-1/8 inch visible copper between the lug and the insulation.
also, got a warning from an HVAC guy not to leave Milwaukee Packout trays with the custom cut foam out in direct sunlight. they can heat up enough to damage the foam.
I agree with the 1/16" to 1/8". Thanks Ken!
Crimp a ferrule on the wire and it will give it the correct length.
Thanks!
Excellent video. It shows some good examples on how not to do it. Your rule-of-thumb about being able to touch the bare conductor with your finger is a good tip. Well done!
Thanks so much for your help with this video, Don! Your input made it a better video!
My pleasure. Glad to help.@@SparkyChannel
I hope the video helps our young tradespeople!@@donl1410
👍@@SparkyChannel
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure! Thanks Vince!
This has always been a pet peeve of mine. Seems many old timers used to leave a lot of bare wire exposed on breakers and main lugs. I get to find and dodge them while servicing panels. I especially see it on number 10 , 8 and 6 going into breakers.
Yes, I've seen it as well. It inspired me to make this video. Thanks!
Great info., Sparky.
Thanks so much Brian!
@3:31 it's perfect. the allen wrench to tighten the lugs into position holes are also a good way to check voltage in the future, also you don't know what person is coming after you (installing whatever) and you don't want to be held accountable for their wire crossing (your) bare copper if* it shorts. the name of the game is called "cover your butt" in electrical.
Great points, thanks!
Great video, in my book any amount of copper would be to much. But if any should show I would allow no moe than 1/8 th of an inch .
Yes was taught a dime width
Excellent, thanks!
Sounds good, thanks!
I would like to see more use of ferrules, as is done in industrial control panels and in Europe. Then the problem of exposed copper and loose strands is greatly reduced.
Thanks!
thanks for posting
You bet!
Great content,great learning experience.
Kind of surprised that it is not mentioned in the NEC manual.
It did help
So I'm assuming a 16th of an inch should be about perfect?
Good job Sparky.
Thanks Gary!
Thank you sir
Welcome! Thanks John!
The inspector being able to see that the jacket isn't under the lug point is one I did not think about. My thought on these things is to always reduce the chance that someone can stick their finger on raw copper, but this makes sense too. Keeping it professional is always a good thing though to prove your legitimacy to an inspector in case you want to keep things as clean as possible.
Absolutely! Thanks!
Obtaining clarity from the manufacture Siemens was the right path to take. The NEC states that listed equipment shall be installed according to manufacture's instructions. As the code is rather silent on the matter of how much copper to expose, doing the install per the Siemen's instructions makes the job to code standards.
I agree, thanks!
I Do the red wire cut. Too many times I’ve seen stray wire threads just waiting to be touch to the opposite lug.
Good point about stray wire threads, thanks!
Hello, thanks for Info. I have question. Wiring a Single pole 20 amp switch, for a 6 gal water heater. What do you do with the Neutral and ground. (Feed wire's) & Load wires that need Neutral & Ground. I'm not a Electrician as you can tell. Thanks
Interesting topic.
I've always kept it closer to the 1/16" look of phase C, and never like A or B.
BTW, those are "conductors", not "cables". A cable is an assembly of multiple conductors in one sheath (like "romex", "MC", or "SJO" cable). Those are simply [individual] conductors in the loadcenter.
Also, how much "copper" should be showing? Hmmm... What if you're using aluminum conductors?
Therefore, how much "bare excess conductor" should be showing... would be the correct question.
Thanks for sharing!
Just a little copper, an eighth maybe, and they’re all even across the lugs. Good video
Yes, excellent. Thanks!
Great video bill. When and where 3 phase power is used. Is it only in industrial?
Thanks!
Three-phase alternating current (AC) power is commonly used to deliver electricity to data centers as well as commercial and industrial buildings that house power-hungry machinery. There's good reason for that, because 3-phase power can deliver more power with greater efficiency, as opposed to single-phase AC power.
Hey Bill, I added a subpanel box next to my main panel. The subpanel will serve 2 mini split air conditioners. However the the romex that will power them will be routed through the main panel and then terminate into the subpanel. Would you strip the romex to those A/Cs as it enters the main panel or would you pass it through and only strip the insulation as it enters the subpanel which it will terminate in? Thanks
for me, it depends on which can be done more neatly.
@@kenbrown2808 My thinking is if I keep the insulation on them then those wires are clearly identified as just passing through using the main box as a junction box, however the other aspect is they will look out of place. I don't thing there is a right or wrong way just wanted to see what Bill's opinion on the subject would be.
@@hippo-potamus if you can feed them neatly through, you can use cable ties to bundle them, so it is clear they all pass straight through. and that would be optimum.
I would leave enough Romex jacket on so that I could write on it "mini-split A/C" with a sharpie but strip the jacket off the rest of it. I agree with Ken on keeping it neat.
@@SparkyChannel Sounds like a good compromise. Thank you.
Kick ass
Thanks Dave!
When looking at the black wire, is there too much insulation removed, or is it not fully inserted?
That's a good question. Perhaps it was some of each.
what was that cutter you used at 4:02 ? ive never seen such a thing, although i am also new to the trade ha ha :]
Oh its in the description ! thanks !
JOKARI 70000 4-70 Cable Knife System for Round Cable Stripping, Yellow: Amazon: amzn.to/3r38zeY
See my video: Jokari Cable Sheathing Stripper for Round Cable Model 70000 4-70: ruclips.net/video/VfA7hNCLY7U/видео.html
A good rule of thumb is to leave the minimum amount of exposed wire after stabbing it to maximum depth and contact. You dont want the insulation interfering That can be measured and the jacket or insulation stripped to that length. My guide is to reduce to a minimum any chance of short circuiting exposed copper to ground.
Excellent, thanks!
As specific as it usually gets I was surprised it said a professional manner but no actual numbers
Thanks so much!
The only reason for copper to show is so you know the insulation isnt being pinched by the lug. Its the inspector that wants to see. Edit and you covered it. Also what was that yellow tool you used??
I'd say.....stick a peice of wire. Down in lug.....and mark on insulation and measure how much to srip. Off....and leave 1/16"....showing...
A 1/16" would be fine. Just a sliver for the inspectors to see.
Many breakers and devices DO have strips gauges or measurements making it a requirement. Uncommon sense says not to display bare conductor much past the lug or terminations closest edge where Murphy can do something ignorant.
Perfect!
There is a fine line between making your work look good BUT also not take a lot of time to do it. the BEST way i have been shown was to put the wire in the lug, mark the insulation at the top of the lug and cut the insulation off and slip a heat shrink over it (color coded) apply electrical grease (no-ox) then install and torque then heat the heat shrink up tight to the lug. the inspector can see it perfectly. wrapping electrical tape takes too much time and trying to do a nice clean job takes too much time and this is a NICE compromise
Excellent advice. I can tell that you take pride in your work.
Hi Bill, a British sparky here. Do the manufacturers of such pieces of equipment not specify how much in terms of length a conductor should be stripped by? I am merely curious is all.
Hi Andrew. No specific length mentioned.
@SparkyChannel
Please dont think I am having trying to argue with you, I am just trying to learn a bit here, but shouldnt the NEC or UL listing bods make it rule for these manufacturers to list cable stripping/torque values etc in their paperwork?
@@andrewstevenson6026 I think that would be a good idea.
Before I watch the video, I usually leave about 1/8."
Perfect, thanks!
Enough to show there’s no insulation on the terminal
Thanks!
👍
Thanks Charles!
The first installation is not only shoddy with respect to the amount of copper stripped, but they didn't even install the color coded wires into their proper phase position.
True. Phase 1=black, phase 2=red and phase 3=blue. I hope this video gives our young tradespeople a helping hand.
No one can afford copper anymore inflation LOL
LOL!
If you can’t see copper, too little insulation was stripped. If you can touch copper with a bare finger, too much insulation was stripped. Simple.
Beautiful!
@@SparkyChannel I posted this near the start of the video and then saw it was redundant as you said the same thing at the end. 😁
LOL! Great minds think alike?@@LTVoyager
don,t want to see insualtion. and don,t want to get insualtion down under the lug.
Thanks!
Waaaay too much copper.
Yep. Thanks Jeremy!