Matt just wanted to let you know your videos are some of the best I’ve seen very informative I’m about to buy a 2005 Nissan spec v and make it a track car for some fun. Keep the videos coming!! You have a true gift.
Matt, great video, I am learning a lot from you. I have a 2003 Sentra with a 1.8L that has a leaky head gasket at 92k miles. I'm am a mid-level DIYer that's been working on cars since the late 70s and I am learning as much as I can about this particular repair and what's involved before making the decision whether to attempt it myself. My 1.8L engine uses adjustment shims that sit on top of the bucket lifters, but the adjustment concept is similar from what I can tell. Two questions I have about what you have stated in this video, that I want to be 100% sure on: #1 You said that when the spec is .014" and you can get a .017" feeler gauge to fit in, you need a bucket lifter that is .004" thicker. But isn't .004" too much? Did you mean instead a bucket lifter that is .003" larger since .017 - .014 = .003? Or am I over-analyzing it here? #2 You said that if the spec is .014" but you can only get a .010" feeler gauge to go in, you need a bucket lifter that is .004" thicker. But, did you really mean instead to say .004" thinner? I'm thinking you need more clearance between the lifter and the cam lobe, not less, and this would require a thinner bucket lifter. Or am I not looking at this correctly? Thanks for putting out great content, you and other folks willing to share their knowledge are a blessing to guys like me.
That is a sweet hoist on the Sentra. Is that to support it also when you do engine mounts ? Can you drop an engine with it sitting across the bay like that?
if yu check the lash on a rebuilt head ie valves laped most likely if you run the motor and some are set o16 after it runs a few trips it will be tighter dew to seating also i have mig welded the end of valve stimes them ground them to tighten sloppy lash of course many cant do this thanks
Could not checking clearance after reinstall cause the engine to not start at all? Im starting to think i overlooked this part and blindly put everything back and i cant get it to fire up
Howdy Matt, so could you please advise me on the size of the exhaust lifters feeler gauge size thanks keep up the good shows, they are very informative
My 500 ho spec v lost compression in one chamber last night. dont know what it is yet but I still made it home and is running. with no spark, I cranked it and i can obviously tell one cylinder is down. Im hoping for the LEAST please GOD I need prayers this car is MY LIFE. IM about to make some content right now....
Would you know why when I put my #1 cyl. at TDC and the dowel pins on the camshafts facing up as instructed, my valves seem to make contact with with the pistons on a '95 Maxima?
If you do one valve at a time you don't have to worry about bolting and unbolting your camshaft caps 300 times and strip your threads out in your head ..leave all other buckets out except for the one you're doing just lay the camshaft in there.. only 1 cam cap needed with lobe facing up... that way you're not wearing your threads out.... just something I noticed when I was doing one... and as for lubing.. I would worry more about lubing the journals instead of the lobes.. turning that cam under pressure pushing the valves open with dry journals would cause more damage to that head than dry cam lobes.... not trying to criticize you or anything it's just these are things I noticed doing this over the 26 plus years I've been working on cars
I Matt. I appreciate your time with this and know it's a bit old now but I'm wondering if you'll take a moment to clarify? You have a cold measurement at 0.014" but the service manual I have for the '05 Sentra 2.5l gives a range from 0.009-0.013" intake and 0.010-0.013" exhaust. Can you tell me what source you get your specs?
Hello, working on a 2004 nissan altima with a 2.5 L engine for the feeler gauges I was wondering if you could tell me the correct gauge size for the intake and exhaust side, I'm having trouble finding it online. PLS HELP.
double check but yes basically. check me out on www.patreon.com/Matthewyourfriendlyneighborhoodtechnician if you need or want an y one on one help with a project. thanks!!
if it needed no adjustments then why does the manufacturer provide clearance and adjustment values for this engine under the hood along with service intervals? so many people are wrong when it comes to this.what I think people mix up is pre loaded hydraulic lifters with lifters that use oil to keep clearance
Hey brother just ran up on your video, I have a quick question, I have a 2009 Nissan Altima, 2.5 s, my question is when I first start up it make a knocking sound and it quickly goes away, then when it gets to temp I can get around 2500-3k rpm and the rattle, knock comes back only at those rpms...it has 201k miles on it yea it's a little worn out lol but is it valves or rod bearings? It still has plenty of power, and no missing or burning oil....I'd just like to feel safer knowing kind of what it is lol I'm thinking valves but again, I'm not sure 100% thanks!! Great video btw, it'll help me if and when I need to do this job
I have the same issues with valve rattle at start for 2 seconds and a little rattle around 2500 to 3000 rpm. Runs smooth in other rpm range but slight misfire at idle with AC running. When AC compressor shuts off, Engine stumbles a little.
Does anyone have the order, or at least the specs for the 1GRFE 4.0 V6, more specifically a 2004 4runner? I lost my footing and a few of the valve tappets fell out and I don’t know where they go, lol. Any help is appreciated!!
@@MattShaughnessy6 The reason I ask, I have a 2012 Rogue with noisy cold eng tap and I was thinking of a clogged lifter check valve. I'm trying Seafoam but I don't hold out too much hope.
@@dugbert5 If they were hydraulic he wouldn't be doing valve clearance on them. I had a '14 rogue and the engine IS extremely noisy when cold. Running a larger filter ( like that for the V8 Armada/Titan) will help. The injectors are noisy when cold too. So its normal for this Engine.
I was so tired of trying to understand this in the Haynes manual, finally a video.
Matt just wanted to let you know your videos are some of the best I’ve seen very informative I’m about to buy a 2005 Nissan spec v and make it a track car for some fun. Keep the videos coming!! You have a true gift.
email me if you ever need help.....highgrooveauto30@gmail.com.
You know your stuff,great video!!
I know what you meant LoL. Good video. I'll have to rebuild my QR25DE one day. It's in a 2011 Frontier. Thanks for the content 👍
Matt, great video, I am learning a lot from you. I have a 2003 Sentra with a 1.8L that has a leaky head gasket at 92k miles. I'm am a mid-level DIYer that's been working on cars since the late 70s and I am learning as much as I can about this particular repair and what's involved before making the decision whether to attempt it myself. My 1.8L engine uses adjustment shims that sit on top of the bucket lifters, but the adjustment concept is similar from what I can tell.
Two questions I have about what you have stated in this video, that I want to be 100% sure on: #1 You said that when the spec is .014" and you can get a .017" feeler gauge to fit in, you need a bucket lifter that is .004" thicker. But isn't .004" too much? Did you mean instead a bucket lifter that is .003" larger since .017 - .014 = .003? Or am I over-analyzing it here?
#2 You said that if the spec is .014" but you can only get a .010" feeler gauge to go in, you need a bucket lifter that is .004" thicker. But, did you really mean instead to say .004" thinner? I'm thinking you need more clearance between the lifter and the cam lobe, not less, and this would require a thinner bucket lifter. Or am I not looking at this correctly?
Thanks for putting out great content, you and other folks willing to share their knowledge are a blessing to guys like me.
Where can I find a labeled diagram my buckets got mixed up
Thanks Matt! Great video!
Great video. One of the best ive found. So, even when the buckets are new, they are different sizes???
That is a sweet hoist on the Sentra. Is that to support it also when you do engine mounts ?
Can you drop an engine with it sitting across the bay like that?
if yu check the lash on a rebuilt head ie valves laped most likely if you run the motor and some are set o16 after it runs a few trips it will be tighter dew to seating also i have mig welded the end of valve stimes them ground them to tighten sloppy lash of course many cant do this thanks
Thank you good information
Could not checking clearance after reinstall cause the engine to not start at all? Im starting to think i overlooked this part and blindly put everything back and i cant get it to fire up
Howdy Matt, so could you please advise me on the size of the exhaust lifters feeler gauge size thanks keep up the good shows, they are very informative
My 500 ho spec v lost compression in one chamber last night. dont know what it is yet but I still made it home and is running. with no spark, I cranked it and i can obviously tell one cylinder is down. Im hoping for the LEAST please GOD I need prayers this car is MY LIFE. IM about to make some content right now....
Does the new generation qr25de engines need valvle clearance or thy have hydraulic lifters ?
Would you know why when I put my #1 cyl. at TDC and the dowel pins on the camshafts facing up as instructed, my valves seem to make contact with with the pistons on a '95 Maxima?
I always thought clearances would get bigger. Can this be done with the engine in the engine bay?
If you do one valve at a time you don't have to worry about bolting and unbolting your camshaft caps 300 times and strip your threads out in your head ..leave all other buckets out except for the one you're doing just lay the camshaft in there.. only 1 cam cap needed with lobe facing up... that way you're not wearing your threads out.... just something I noticed when I was doing one... and as for lubing.. I would worry more about lubing the journals instead of the lobes.. turning that cam under pressure pushing the valves open with dry journals would cause more damage to that head than dry cam lobes.... not trying to criticize you or anything it's just these are things I noticed doing this over the 26 plus years I've been working on cars
gotcha even an oak board and c clamps
I Matt. I appreciate your time with this and know it's a bit old now but I'm wondering if you'll take a moment to clarify? You have a cold measurement at 0.014" but the service manual I have for the '05 Sentra 2.5l gives a range from 0.009-0.013" intake and 0.010-0.013" exhaust. Can you tell me what source you get your specs?
The sticker under the hood.
Hello, working on a 2004 nissan altima with a 2.5 L engine for the feeler gauges I was wondering if you could tell me the correct gauge size for the intake and exhaust side, I'm having trouble finding it online. PLS HELP.
Kelly Trujillo
www.sbintl.com/tech_library/tech_bulletins/TT00008_valve_lash_adjustment_for_2002_2008_Nissan_2.5L_QR25DE_engines.pdf
Great video and tips... Would that same sequence work on nissan V6 as well?
double check but yes basically. check me out on www.patreon.com/Matthewyourfriendlyneighborhoodtechnician if you need or want an y one on one help with a project. thanks!!
@dugbert...It if was hydraulic it would need no adjustments
if it needed no adjustments then why does the manufacturer provide clearance and adjustment values for this engine under the hood along with service intervals? so many people are wrong when it comes to this.what I think people mix up is pre loaded hydraulic lifters with lifters that use oil to keep clearance
Yeah... That's why this engine does need adjustments with new buckets... I'm working on mine right now
so called solid lifter. Nissan produced 26 sizes to match original valve lash spec. Well done bro
its a pita aint it. fun though I do enjoy it. let me know if you need any help
@@MattShaughnessy6 mat wat is Der clearance on Toyota 160! 4afe
Hey brother just ran up on your video, I have a quick question, I have a 2009 Nissan Altima, 2.5 s, my question is when I first start up it make a knocking sound and it quickly goes away, then when it gets to temp I can get around 2500-3k rpm and the rattle, knock comes back only at those rpms...it has 201k miles on it yea it's a little worn out lol but is it valves or rod bearings? It still has plenty of power, and no missing or burning oil....I'd just like to feel safer knowing kind of what it is lol I'm thinking valves but again, I'm not sure 100% thanks!! Great video btw, it'll help me if and when I need to do this job
I have the same issues with valve rattle at start for 2 seconds and a little rattle around 2500 to 3000 rpm. Runs smooth in other rpm range but slight misfire at idle with AC running. When AC compressor shuts off, Engine stumbles a little.
Did you figure this rattle issue out?
Cam phaser is the typical issue for 02-06 qr25’s with that rattle at cold start and operating temp under load.
@@matthewcurtin5290read my other reply didn’t tag you
Thanks
Does anyone have the order, or at least the specs for the 1GRFE 4.0 V6, more specifically a 2004 4runner? I lost my footing and a few of the valve tappets fell out and I don’t know where they go, lol. Any help is appreciated!!
If you got a gap of 0.010 and you're trying to get 0.014 gap you need a bucket lifter that is 0.04 thinner LoL.
Are those lifters hydraulic?
define hydraulic because I already know what you are thinking.
@@MattShaughnessy6 The reason I ask, I have a 2012 Rogue with noisy cold eng tap and I was thinking of a clogged lifter check valve. I'm trying Seafoam but I don't hold out too much hope.
@@dugbert5 If they were hydraulic he wouldn't be doing valve clearance on them. I had a '14 rogue and the engine IS extremely noisy when cold. Running a larger filter ( like that for the V8 Armada/Titan) will help. The injectors are noisy when cold too. So its normal for this Engine.