@CSC Refrigeration and Hvac I find valves that chatter or buzz are due to partially shorted out windings in the solenoid electromagnetic coil. Replace the coil, chatters usually go bye bye!
So as far as the wiring it's just wired in hot and is energized (open) during normal operation, and when the system turns off when it meets temp or goes into defrost the solenoid valve de-energizes (closes). The time clock controls this? And is it the same for a walk in cooler, since they dont usually have time clocks?
Yes it’s wired through the thermostat and the defrost clock. I have another video explaining how all this is wired and I go over the wiring diagram and all that.
Hello. I have been watching your videos and I got to say you do a very good job. I’m learning a lot. I have a solenoid valve in a walk in cooler with a similar condition, it’s making a loud buzzing noise. My question is; can the valve body just be taken apart and cleaned? Or does it really need to be replaced? Thanks and keep them videos coming.
Mr. Tinieblas you can take them apart and change out the insides of you want but I find it easier just to change out your entire valve and it’s safer that way and you know it’s all new
Yes you can do that too , but sometimes the body can be warped and even by changing the guts it still won’t work. Like say the valve body got overheated when it was installed it can warp.
@@Cscrefandhvac I find valves that chatter or buzz are due to partially shorted out windings in the solenoid electromagnetic coil. Replace the coil, chatters usually go bye bye!
Pretty difficult to weld in that tight spot.
@CSC Refrigeration and Hvac I find valves that chatter or buzz are due to partially shorted out windings in the solenoid electromagnetic coil. Replace the coil, chatters usually go bye bye!
Please describe the symptoms of a bad solenoid valve to let new trade technician learn something from your video
So as far as the wiring it's just wired in hot and is energized (open) during normal operation, and when the system turns off when it meets temp or goes into defrost the solenoid valve de-energizes (closes). The time clock controls this? And is it the same for a walk in cooler, since they dont usually have time clocks?
Yes it’s wired through the thermostat and the defrost clock. I have another video explaining how all this is wired and I go over the wiring diagram and all that.
Why don't use 120V or 24V? What's the size of the tubing, 3/8"?
Alice Pet because the voltage on this system was 230 volts. And yes the pipe is 3/8
@@Cscrefandhvac Thank you so much!
Alice Pet your welcome
Hello. I have been watching your videos and I got to say you do a very good job. I’m learning a lot. I have a solenoid valve in a walk in cooler with a similar condition, it’s making a loud buzzing noise. My question is; can the valve body just be taken apart and cleaned? Or does it really need to be replaced? Thanks and keep them videos coming.
Mr. Tinieblas you can take them apart and change out the insides of you want but I find it easier just to change out your entire valve and it’s safer that way and you know it’s all new
CSC Refrigeration and Hvac thank you for answering my question. Take care 👍
Mr. Tinieblas anytime man. Thank you for watching
Do you work on Refers how do you check a 12v dc coil? Thanks
Amperage draw or resistance test. If it reads OL then the windings are bad
If you got 12 volts dc there and it doesn't work 🤷🏽♂️
great video
wow, informative
Thanks for watching man
I was taught to just change out the guts on a liquid line solenoid. I know we all do things different.
Yes you can do that too , but sometimes the body can be warped and even by changing the guts it still won’t work. Like say the valve body got overheated when it was installed it can warp.
@@Cscrefandhvac I find valves that chatter or buzz are due to partially shorted out windings in the solenoid electromagnetic coil. Replace the coil, chatters usually go bye bye!
👍