These can also be mis-diagnosed as faulty in a low charge situation. When the system has a leak or is undercharged a head master will naturally bypass. In a system with a headmaster you typically want to maintain a receiver level of 50% liquid. Yes that sounds high but hear me out. When the HM begins to bypass you want to make sure you have enough liquid stacked up in your receiver, enough to feed you TXV. You’re bypassing the condenser and mixing hot gas with condensed liquid. Now to rule out a charge issue you can verify receiver level if your receiver is equipped with a sightglass (bullseye) or by torching the receiver body. Using a MAP torch begin warming the body of the receiver staring at the bottom and working your way up. Go up and down for 20-30secs. Then remove the flame and using your hand or index finger, start at the bottom and begin touching your way up the receiver. When you feel the temperature change that’s where your liquid level is. Once you determined that you have plenty of liquid stacked then you can move on to troubleshooting the head master. I’ve seen too many techs deem a HM faulty when the system was low or had leaks. Hope this helps. 🤘🏼
Yes , exactly. Great comment man. Have to make sure the charge is correct first. I should’ve mentioned that . Thanks man. I’m gonna Pin this so it’s at the top of the comments 👍
@@ufcpubg1964 you can torch the receiver after it’s pumped down to check how full the receiver is once pumped, but it’s not necessary. You torch the receiver as the system is running to check receiver level. What happens is, when the system is low on charge and the HP falls below the head masters rating the head master will naturally start to bypass because of the drop in HP, it’s the head masters job to maintain HP.
Got into commercial refrig not too long and now about to take refrigeration state exam for contractor. I read from forum it's best to pinch it because sometime it leaks. Thanks for the videos.
They very rarely leak and if they did you’d see it leaking right when it was cut. Pinching it wouldn’t hold back the pressure anyway especially since it’s in the high side of the system
Thanks for your explanation on those controls, I have seen the large pressure fluctuations with condenser fan pressure control. If I have a preference it would be to have a speed control on the condenser fans. I have not seen a head master unit on a system where I am.
Damn, I did not no about that little flip thing. I had a industrial freezer that was stuck to the condensing unit. I added to refrigerant to flood the receiver and use the fan cycling control to get them working till it could be replaced. I don't remember ever seeing that arm to move the valve..
Does that valve modulate or is it on/off? I don’t believe I have seen a headmaster maintain a head pressure (180) at the theory goes of what it’s supposed to do, even on a new install… what is the range accuracy (+/-) ? The one I did replace once, was plugged with dirt in the strainer. Under the seat I found a chip of something holding it open. I inquired about replacing the 3/8” strainers in the entry ports because Sporlan doesnt include them in the replacement valve, go figure,… Simons has none in inventory, and said they need a minimum order of like a box of 500 to order them or some ridiculous thing like that. They weren’t about to order them. I ended up installing a fan cycle control on one of the two fans…
They modulate open and closed depending what the pressure is and then they hold at 180 or so. What was the outside temp where it wasn’t holding 180 ? Of it was warm or hot out the head pressure will run like it normally does. These are for the cold weather so it will maintain a pressure of 180 because if it goes too low when cold out the system won’t cool properly
hey Chris , If the Head Master control is stuck open (bypassing on a warm day ) would you get a noticeable temp rise on the liquid line going into the receiver . meaning with a couple of temp clamps or even your hand will there be a measurable temp rise
On the fan cycle control like for ice machine condenser the fan comers on 250 and off at 200. Is that to maintain head pressure? Even thou system has head master I guess if you don’t back up the refrigerant in the condenser you don’t have enough pressure to make the TXV work properly and say a walk in cooler or freezer. Just wondering why the Mantiwoc condenser has a headmaster and a fan cycle control. So in the winter the headmaster sends all the refrigerant to the receiver and then the receiver sends it through the filter dryer to the evaporator TXV so it has a steady stream of liquid ?
Yes they have to have a steady flow of proper head pressure. Also with ice machine you have to hav good head pressure for when they go into harvest cycle to defrost the ice. Fans will always shut off on defrost because the discharge gas is diverted to the evap for harvest cycle
When setting up the ORI ,ORD style how do you set it up.? Do you have to return when it is cold to set the valve up or is there a way to set it up any time of the year ? Thanks and great job on your videos. Thanks and keep them coming
CB CB you can set them up in the warm weather. But a lot of times we will go back and set them once the weather starts to get cool out. It’s easier then because the had pressure will actually drop so you can set them at the pressure you want the head pressure to be at
Hello there damien here for Ireland one question can the head pressure valve be installed in wrong direction flow just have a couple of issues with remote ice machines starting to take a little bit longer to harvest?
Good to have you back , Chris 👍 One that confuses the $%^@ outta me us the hot gas bypass valve that injects hot gas into the suction to keep the sst from becoming too low , with a multiple box system. Now, I understand the principle and the why , but then , how do you get the bloody system to pump down if the valve keeps injecting hot gas into the suction everytime the sst drops ? Do you have to install a solenoid valve on the suction line right before the compressor? Thank you Chris!
Great explanation, Thanks! Will a low charge affect performance of valve? If so how do you charge system to maximize efficiency of valve without overcharging unit?
quesiton? on low in charge systems using the (LAC-10-210 psig) range valve and we have like 160 psig on the gas discharge compressor the valve will be by pass the discharge gas into the receiver?
And today I think I had a bad headmaster as I had a 55° cooler after talking to tech-support Heatcraft my discharge line felt cold going to the evaporator where I checked pressures outside on the ports filter dryer was just cool to the touch filling the headmaster it’s felt cool as well. R C
What??? Your discharge line was cold???? Really,…. The discharge line ? If thats the case , your compressor isn’t doing any work. Even with some gas it should burn your hand.
The fan can be cycled on discharge pressure, or on condenser temperature, I have seen both. An electronic temperature control can be easier to retro fit you just tape and insulate a sensor wire to the condensor discharge and it can be set to have a narrow differential.
If your in a pinch headmaster valve is bypassing completely you can cut the tip and it will no longer bypass the valve until you can get another headmaster valve.
I recently ran into a system with both a headmaster and fan cycling. Is there a reason why a system would need both? My theory is just redundancy but I'm not sure.
Only have seen it when there are multiple fans, one should always be running whenever compressor is running. Cycling a single or both fans just sets up the valve fighting against fans. Pressures will be all over, can cause TXV to hunt.
These can also be mis-diagnosed as faulty in a low charge situation. When the system has a leak or is undercharged a head master will naturally bypass. In a system with a headmaster you typically want to maintain a receiver level of 50% liquid. Yes that sounds high but hear me out. When the HM begins to bypass you want to make sure you have enough liquid stacked up in your receiver, enough to feed you TXV. You’re bypassing the condenser and mixing hot gas with condensed liquid. Now to rule out a charge issue you can verify receiver level if your receiver is equipped with a sightglass (bullseye) or by torching the receiver body. Using a MAP torch begin warming the body of the receiver staring at the bottom and working your way up. Go up and down for 20-30secs. Then remove the flame and using your hand or index finger, start at the bottom and begin touching your way up the receiver. When you feel the temperature change that’s where your liquid level is. Once you determined that you have plenty of liquid stacked then you can move on to troubleshooting the head master. I’ve seen too many techs deem a HM faulty when the system was low or had leaks.
Hope this helps. 🤘🏼
Yes , exactly. Great comment man. Have to make sure the charge is correct first. I should’ve mentioned that . Thanks man. I’m gonna Pin this so it’s at the top of the comments 👍
Awsome. Thank You.
And you do this MAP gas when pumping down im assuming ( dont go hard on me I just want to learn )
@@ufcpubg1964 you can torch the receiver after it’s pumped down to check how full the receiver is once pumped, but it’s not necessary.
You torch the receiver as the system is running to check receiver level. What happens is, when the system is low on charge and the HP falls below the head masters rating the head master will naturally start to bypass because of the drop in HP, it’s the head masters job to maintain HP.
If it’s bypassing in winter, then why do we have to flood the condenser ? Because HMV floods it sometimes 40% or 50% ?
"trouble with everything until you know how it works" i say every day hvac is hard sometimes. thx for vid brother
Greg Mccarthy thanks man. Yes this isn’t an easy trade and there will always be something to confuse us or that we have to learn about
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
you and hvacr videos have the best channels right now keep them coming brother
Chris M thanks man I really appreciate that . And yes , Chris from Hvac/r vids is the man 👍
Nice job explaining it Chris, I’m sure the new guys can grasp it the way you explained it 👍
Scott Kneeland thanks man appreciate that
Thank you for you’re explanation. Is the control pressure used in residential system? Thank you.
Got into commercial refrig not too long and now about to take refrigeration state exam for contractor. I read from forum it's best to pinch it because sometime it leaks. Thanks for the videos.
They very rarely leak and if they did you’d see it leaking right when it was cut. Pinching it wouldn’t hold back the pressure anyway especially since it’s in the high side of the system
God morning thanks so much for your help I’m Chuy from Tex
Top notch video. Great job with explaining and showing how it works. Thank you for posting.
Thanks for your explanation
My teacher from dominic republic
That was instructive and thank you much for teaching god bless
Sal Castillo thank you appreciate that 👍
Thanks for your explanation on those controls, I have seen the large pressure fluctuations with condenser fan pressure control. If I have a preference it would be to have a speed control on the condenser fans. I have not seen a head master unit on a system where I am.
Well made!!
I’m not in this field but it’s interesting thanks.
Thank you always learning from your videos. Tks. God bless
Excellent video thanks man
Great video, great instruction on how the equipment works good job man keep it up!
Just perfect, appreciate the explanation, u r great brother. Subscribed
Great video bro. Headmaster's are definitely in play now.
Rookie Refrigeration Thanks bro 👍
Damn, I did not no about that little flip thing. I had a industrial freezer that was stuck to the condensing unit. I added to refrigerant to flood the receiver and use the fan cycling control to get them working till it could be replaced. I don't remember ever seeing that arm to move the valve..
Really great video, thanks for the interest on teaching the newer guys and share your knowledge with the community in general
This video was extremely helpful thanks
Thank You. Thank You
Thank you for explaining
Thank you for the upload. The explanation was great.
Alex Zapata thanks man. Hope it can help 👍
Excellent explanation!
Thanks man
Nailed it
Very educated video and it helps a lot 🤙🏽💯
Does that valve modulate or is it on/off? I don’t believe I have seen a headmaster maintain a head pressure (180) at the theory goes of what it’s supposed to do, even on a new install… what is the range accuracy (+/-) ? The one I did replace once, was plugged with dirt in the strainer. Under the seat I found a chip of something holding it open. I inquired about replacing the 3/8” strainers in the entry ports because Sporlan doesnt include them in the replacement valve, go figure,… Simons has none in inventory, and said they need a minimum order of like a box of 500 to order them or some ridiculous thing like that. They weren’t about to order them. I ended up installing a fan cycle control on one of the two fans…
They modulate open and closed depending what the pressure is and then they hold at 180 or so. What was the outside temp where it wasn’t holding 180 ? Of it was warm or hot out the head pressure will run like it normally does. These are for the cold weather so it will maintain a pressure of 180 because if it goes too low when cold out the system won’t cool properly
Very nice video
great job bro, I know better about Headmaster now
Awesome vid man
This dude needs to preemptively sue Pixar.
hey Chris , If the Head Master control is stuck open (bypassing on a warm day ) would you get a noticeable temp rise on the liquid line going into the receiver . meaning with a couple of temp clamps or even your hand will there be a measurable temp rise
Hey Mike what’s up buddy ? Yes you would get a noticeable temp rise for sure. You will even feel it in the winter as well .
Awesome, welcome back brother
Jose Julián thanks man 👍
Your back. 🤘⚡️🤘
Yup. Hahaha. Been back a few weeks now 👍
This Vid is gold!
Good content
Great video bro!!
On the fan cycle control like for ice machine condenser the fan comers on 250 and off at 200. Is that to maintain head pressure? Even thou system has head master I guess if you don’t back up the refrigerant in the condenser you don’t have enough pressure to make the TXV work properly and say a walk in cooler or freezer. Just wondering why the Mantiwoc condenser has a headmaster and a fan cycle control. So in the winter the headmaster sends all the refrigerant to the receiver and then the receiver sends it through the filter dryer to the evaporator TXV so it has a steady stream of liquid ?
Yes they have to have a steady flow of proper head pressure. Also with ice machine you have to hav good head pressure for when they go into harvest cycle to defrost the ice. Fans will always shut off on defrost because the discharge gas is diverted to the evap for harvest cycle
When setting up the ORI ,ORD style how do you set it up.? Do you have to return when it is cold to set the valve up or is there a way to set it up any time of the year ? Thanks and great job on your videos. Thanks and keep them coming
CB CB you can set them up in the warm weather. But a lot of times we will go back and set them once the weather starts to get cool out. It’s easier then because the had pressure will actually drop so you can set them at the pressure you want the head pressure to be at
Hello there damien here for Ireland one question can the head pressure valve be installed in wrong direction flow just have a couple of issues with remote ice machines starting to take a little bit longer to harvest?
Vincent Howe yes it could be installed wrong. You never know. Usually they are marked though for what line goes where
Good stuff like always bro
Great
Good to have you back , Chris 👍
One that confuses the $%^@ outta me us the hot gas bypass valve that injects hot gas into the suction to keep the sst from becoming too low , with a multiple box system.
Now, I understand the principle and the why , but then , how do you get the bloody system to pump down if the valve keeps injecting hot gas into the suction everytime the sst drops ?
Do you have to install a solenoid valve on the suction line right before the compressor?
Thank you Chris!
Sterling Archer yes there is either a solenoid to shut off the hot gas line or a ball valve to close the line and then you can pump the system down
@@Cscrefandhvac makes more sense , cheers , love those educational vids , mate 👍
Good tip to cut that pigtail. Have you ever seen one stuck open/closed and tapped on it to release it?
Steve Izzi yes I’ve done that as well many times hahah. But sometimes by hitting it , it still won’t do anything
Great explanation, Thanks! Will a low charge affect performance of valve? If so how do you charge system to maximize efficiency of valve without overcharging unit?
robert oneeye yes low charge will affect it. You have to find out what the 90% level for the reciever is and charge it that way
quesiton? on low in charge systems using the (LAC-10-210 psig) range valve and we have like 160 psig on the gas discharge compressor the valve will be by pass the discharge gas into the receiver?
And today I think I had a bad headmaster as I had a 55° cooler after talking to tech-support Heatcraft my discharge line felt cold going to the evaporator where I checked pressures outside on the ports filter dryer was just cool to the touch filling the headmaster it’s felt cool as well. R C
System could also be low on charge too , you have to make sure it’s fully charged . Low charge can act like a headmaster issue
What??? Your discharge line was cold???? Really,…. The discharge line ? If thats the case , your compressor isn’t doing any work. Even with some gas it should burn your hand.
Question? on loe in chsrge systems the LAC VALVE will stuck open?
Are these valves rated by size as well or just temp??
What's the best way to diagnose if the oroa is bad or if the unit is actually low on charge?
Great video, is that a Maine accent?
JDT738126 hahahah no , it’s a Boston one 👍
Very helpful, thanks
That fan cycle switch uses a sensing bulb?
The fan can be cycled on discharge pressure, or on condenser temperature, I have seen both. An electronic temperature control can be easier to retro fit you just tape and insulate a sensor wire to the condensor discharge and it can be set to have a narrow differential.
Nice, but why not just looking the fans, until desired head preussure is reached?
I’m not sure I understand your question ?
@@Cscrefandhvac sorry must be the beer, i ment locking,stopping the fans by means of controlling headpressure.
sjef oekel yes you can do that too with a fan cycle control. But most outdoor units now come with a headmaster
If your in a pinch headmaster valve is bypassing completely you can cut the tip and it will no longer bypass the valve until you can get another headmaster valve.
If you are low on charge it should be bypassing right?
Yes
I recently ran into a system with both a headmaster and fan cycling. Is there a reason why a system would need both? My theory is just redundancy but I'm not sure.
Only have seen it when there are multiple fans, one should always be running whenever compressor is running. Cycling a single or both fans just sets up the valve fighting against fans. Pressures will be all over, can cause TXV to hunt.
Maybe due to extremely wide outside temperature range? Fan cycling as first stage of control with headmaster as second stage?
👍👍👍
#sir please conversation ICM-220 lock out relay Waring cannection with drawing.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏
Basically a hot gas bypass valve 🤔
Pretty much works the same way , yes
*and girls
I need this in California in Los angeles never we get cold cold ... ?
Thanks for your time and wisdom! It helps a lot.
Mike thanks man. Glad I can help
A system with a leak and a headmaster vs a system with a stuck open headmaster. What would the symptoms be ? Clear sight glass on both.
No liquid feed the TXV and of course no cool and yor return or sucction will be hot and your compressor too