Just finished replacing the water pump, timing belt and tensioner on my '99 RX300. With your instructions, the operation was a total success. The bit about removing the studs was especially helpfull. I used a couple of jam nuts and a wrench on the studs to help the Torx socket, so it wouldn't break off the stud tips. I had a REALLY rough time getting the harmonic balancer bolt off. I ended up making a tool which uses the two threaded holes in the pulley to keep the crank from turning. Thanks!
Always looks easy when a pro does it. I just read a DIY guy's post on changing the timing belt of his 2004 Lexus RX330. He said "be prepared for a two-day job". He rated the job difficulty a 9 out of 10.
@@polymyxa8233 I learned how change timing belt from this channel 7 years ago , now I can done this job about 2 hours , whatever how hard I try just can’t make it in an hour. 😂
what can I say but excellent work Love the way you used the Tie straps on the belt sprockets. I replaced a Lexus LS 400 timing belt used my Daughters boy friend extra pair of hands. I wish I could known that Idea, the way you explained everything was perfect real down to earth I need to get those stud extractors very nice tool. Awesome
Great video its a little easier on my 02 Sienna I have more room, I did not need to mess with the lower engine mount, I followed every step and was successful , without this video it would've been a nightmare, Thank you soo much
I think I would have tried to find a replacement stud for the one that was broken, so when I had to do the belt again in a few years I would have had a better chance to get that bracket off without having to raise the engine again. But I can understand why you want to work around that problem, as it might have taken a few days to find such a specialized stud and your customer wanted his car back. Thanks again for posting this video, which is by far the best timing belt video on the internet.
I just had a buddy do my timing belt while I watched him. Watching this video afterwards was very entertaining, since I knew about every single part, and it helped me retain that knowledge.
Great video and very clear.!!!!! I'm in the process of having to change timing belt and water pump on a V6 Toyota Camry.It's the same set up. hopeful wouldn't have any dramas.Keep them coming Guys. thanks...
Great video. The only thing I'll add, after replacing my timing belt on an 02 Sienna with the same motor, is that after you release the tension on the hydraulic tensioner, check your timing before you button it back up. If you don't, and you are off a tooth, your engine will be toast!! To do this, spin the crankshaft two full revolutions or 720 degrees. To do this, put the crankshaft bolt back in without the harmonic balancer, and use a long handled breaker bar or ratchet to turn the motor clockwise only. If you meet hard resistance (other than pressure building up in the cylinders) then stop as you may have made a mistake and a valve may be hitting the top of the cylinder. After you turn the crankshaft over two full revolutions, check the timing marks on the two upper camshafts to be sure they are pointing to their respective reference marks on the black timing cover behind the cam sprockets. Don't worry about the marks on the belt. Just check to make sure the marks on the crankshaft and the two camshaft sprockets pointing to their respective reference marks on the motor (same ones as earlier). Also, I used a couple of the inexpensive black plastic spring clamps from HF to hold the belt on the pulley instead of using zip ties. On the Sienna, it was very hard to get the zip tie on the back pulley, so I tried the clamps. They work great. Easy on, easy off, and they have strong tension so they hold on nicely. I put them on the bottom of the cam sprockets so it held the tension for the whole top section above that point on the sprocket.
thanh dang Yes. Everything turns just as if it will all turn once you engage the starter to start the motor. Don't worry about the mark (white line) on the belt. It will not end up in the same place. The concern is checking the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the harmonic balancer to make sure they come back to line up with the marks where they started. The benefit of doing it before you try to start the motor is that if you are off a tooth, you can remove the belt and fix it. If you don't do this and you are off one tooth, and you start the motor you will pretty much ruin the top end of the motor. That means you'll have to pull the heads and replace valves. Very expensive.
thanh dang Can't hurt. It is always a good idea that whenever any work is done on the timing mechanism of a motor to pull it thru at least 2 turns -one complete cycle- to make sure that there is no collision. Then check your timing one more time. only takes a minute.
You'll notice he has a contingency plan for every eventuality, which suggests he's done this many times before. So he doesn't cuss, he just goes to plan "B."
I just finished up doing my 1mzfe timing belt and head gaskets... I didn't find it necessary to remove any studs at all. Some of the mount brackets and the water pump was a little tight coming out and going in but they went within too much hassle.
For added peace of mind, I also marked the crankshaft pulley so I know the belt is correct before I pull the pin on the grenade tensioner. This technique saved my butt in a HUGE way.
i would have created my own timing mark with a paint stick on the hard to see cam gear and would have rotated the engine by hand 2x just to make sure the marks are on time and didnt jump a tooth after releasing the tensioner overall a very good instructional video for double ohc.
Love the videos! Suggestion: could you turn the opening credit sound a bit? Also, it's a bit sharp on the ears (treble), but thank you soo much for posting!
Great step by step, but I do think you need to stress how important it is that the viewer understands that the tension between the two cams is tight as well as the correct amount of teeth remain between the two cams when you put the new belt on. I do this by marking the old belt (and pulley) before the old belt comes off and then transfer those same marks to the new belt and make certain they are the same number of teeth apart.
Great video, but how come you didn't use the marks on the new timing belt. It makes it so much easier. I saw you had a Gates kit, and the new belt had the marks. The only thing that's confusing about the belt marks are as if you are sitting on the transmission. (L Cam is the front R Cam is the rear) and the CR mark matches up with the other dot on the crank gear at about 4 o'clock.
Watch out though, the marks only work if the belt is not reversed. I got my belt reversed the first time. The engine still ran, but the ECU said there was an error. I had to do the whole job again, but thankfully no engine damage.
Great idea to replace the water pump while replacing timing belt, but should've gone the extra step and replaced the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals as well.if any of them begin to leak, you will have to get back to this point anyway.
@canoeshoe You run the engine at rest for long enough to open the thermostat, and the engine 'burps' air away, pushed by the water pump, to the radiator.
@sbab83 it should be a free wheeling motor not an interference engine. To be sure check the timing belt book. Most of the Camery engine like the Lexus 3.0L are not interference type. I like how the video shows using tie straps to hold the cam sprocket and belt in place without any expensive tools. The stud removal kit is cheaper if you buy the whole set of metric and standard.
Best video ever...esp the part about taking off the water pump without removing those cam sprockets. Now how do tighten the harmonic balancer without an impact gun
After mounting the timing belt you may want to run it to see if the water pump leaks or not. No sense putting it all together then finding out you have a defective pump or seal.
This is a great educational video for beginner. I am planning to replace my timing belt for the first time and have been watching this clip for number of times. I wonder what brand Stud Extractor in this clip.
Would probably be a good idea to hand turn the engine over a few times with a breaker bar before turning it on in order to make sure the timing didn't slip during the install.
b*: Try Doing A Thermostat (2.5 hrs) or Spark Plug & Coil Pks Replace,Which U Have To Remove Intake & Throttle Body,To Replace Back 3 Plugs on ES330,(2.75-3.5hrs), These 2 Jobs May Change Ur Opinion.& If T.Belt Isn't Done Correctly ,W/Tensioner Replacement,The 3.3 is An Interference Eng.Meaning ,If Tensioner Or Something Isn't Done Correctly,& Ur New T. Belt Breaks,UR ENGINE IS TOAST,BEING AN INTERFERENCE ENG.
First of all, great video !!! It is very helpful. I know you said those stud removers were at Autozone's loan area but could you please tell us exactly which will work ? I noticed there is a std and metric set and some off a link from your website. Also, I couldn't get my Toyota dealership to find those two studs on their parts lookup, does anyone here have the Toyota part number for those two studs? Thanks
That part isn't something Toyota would stock. May not be available. While it is cosmetically broken, it wouldn't be worth delaying the repair and inconveniencing a customer. I would disclose the broken bolt head, but would continue the repair.
when you do the belt you always do the tensioner & waterpump too, thats way its done for the next 50,000 or so miles. good or bad you change to save your self the trouble.
Great guide. I would love to know what method is used to keep the crankshaft from turning when torque-ing down the pulley bolt. Almost every guide I've come across skips over that part entirely or just mentions tightening it with no description of how to lock the crankshaft. The Haynes guide is vague as hell, and describes inserting a large screw driver into flywheel teeth or torque converter bolts, with no mention of how to even go about it. Remove the starter and access through the hole? Remove the inspection plate beneath auto transmission to access torque converter? Is that area filled with trans fluid? Is it even accessible without removing stuff from beneath the engine? Is it even a good idea shoving a screw driver into the flywheel and then forcing it to endure the 219Nm it takes to drive down the pulley bolt?
Good observation and question. I believe there can be several ways to keep the crank from turning. Most of us use some sort of way to hold or wedge something in the teeth to keep it from turning. Just be careful and you will be ok.
Can you please let me know about other parts such as the heater adjustment valve and the video air conditioning?I also have a Lexus RX 300 and I want to have some information thanks 🙏🌹👋🌹🙏
Let me see ... 1/2" impact, 3/4" impact, foot and inch pound torque wrenches, stud removal tool, wobbly sockets, floor jack, gear puller, and a few other things. Can you do this job if you only have a crescent wrench, vise-grips, and a hammer if you have the time to spend doing it? Good video. Thanks for the TIPS for when things go wrong.
1/2" cordless high impacts these days can produce up to 1200 ft lbs to break it loose. Pulley removal tool from harbor freight cost less than 15 bucks. So better to get the tools. You may have to buy bolts separately.
did you put any compound on the water pump or just the gasket Is it necessary to replace water pump, hydrolic tensioner; i'm a novice so wonder how long till they would come out to burn you. great vid. thanks.
Do we need to oil the hydraulic tensioner shaft/bolt before we put it in to the tensioner and tighten it?When I took my tensioner off it was oily all over the tensioner shaft/bolt.So makes me wonder either some how oil gets there to lubricate it, I nee to lubricate it before I put it on or I might have oil leaking that got in to the tensioner...If it needs to be lubricated they shall it be oil or grease?Note that the timing belt is going be above the tensioner shaft/bolt so there is no oil or grease that will be getting on the timing belt if it is moderately applied. So do we or we do not need to lubricate the tensioner shaft/bolt?
My replacement belt had timing marks on the belt. Per the video, I lined up the timing marks on the crank /cams, removed the old belt. I simply made sure the marks on the new belt lined up exactly with the marks on the crank/cams pulleys.
I have an odd question, my buddy has a 03 Sienna that has this engine and the belt is out of time, whoever installed it before he bought it didn't time it right. The crank bolt isn't coming off but I'm wondering if it's possible if I just took the tensioner out, removed the top cover and took the belt off the cams and retimed it that way by just using the marks on the outer crank pulley and rotated the crank to TDC. Only thing that I'm not sure about is that the tensioner pulley is the last to go on and I wont be able to remove the belt from the tensioner since the lower cover will still be on.
How hard is it to replace the front crank seal and cam seals on this engine? Book time for the crank seal is showing 7.3 hours and 4.6 hours for one of the cam seals or 3.2 hours for just the belt. Yes all the times are over lapping so I'm figuring 8 hours total. Also I am working on a 2000 Avalon, I believe it is the same engine. They look identical to me. Oh and very nice video! Thanks Mike
when you are aligning the timing marks for the pulley for the RH cylinder head is it supposed to snap into place (TDC) like the LH cylinder head? i find that the LH pulley snaps to TDC very easily, but the RH pulley doesn't want to snap to TDC. I know the camshafts are aligned correctly to their perspective dots, but i dont know if setting to tdc like that is normal. if you can recall how it felt when you did it for this video, please let me know if I am right or wrong.thanks(awesome turotial!)
+Johnathon Wheeler can you please elaborate on it as to why I am an idiot? How much does a stud cost? Not replacing will make it harder for the person who work in the car.
+Joe Black : I have the same observation as you. I worked on old cars and usually replaced water pump bolt/stud when they are corroded. It's cheap insurance
One year ago I had my timing belt and water replaced. About a month ago the water pump started making noise. I replaced the water pump and within 60 miles it started making the same noise. Both pumps were tru flow from napa. We went ahead and replaced the pump with a toyota pump and it's making the same noise after less than 60 miles. Do you have any idea what can be causing this problem. thank you
How would you get the coolant back in the block after reinstalling the waterpump when the thermostat is closed? This is about the only part i dont understand.
What if i believe mine is out of time. I bought an 05 Lexus they never replaced timing belt. From my understanding is not an interference motor, so I'm still safe...??..is this true? If so, I've tried to move pulleys and they barely move back n forth. I can't get them to turn over to line up in time. So i haven't removed belt yet. Is it possible to move individually to live up up? My car shut off on me so this the reason I'm asking. I was told timing belt slipped. Can i save my car?..please help
You have asked many good questions, and there are answers. However it does no good to guess. You may not like this answer but to find those answers you will need to do many several tests. I'd start with a vacuum test, then cylinder contribution, then compression. After you get those answers you should know if the engine is worth saving.
I bought timing belt kit from rockauto.com. I cannot get all timing marks lined up on belt. I turned engine over a couple of revolutions and now cams sprockets come a couple of teeth off.
what happened after replaced timing belt if it is off alittle bit?, thanks. i don't know why after i replaced timing belt and all check light showed on the screen.
Lot of Work for a Timing Belt ,But I guess that’s Why a lot of these will go 300k no problem if you do the maint.Mechanic did a Great Job except at the End he just threw it back together without Explaining Any of it ?
I listened very carefully and we don't find out the torque specs for ALL the bolts; not during disassembly's or assemblies :( It would have been fine If it was mentioned during either the disassembly or assembly though (Hydrolic tension pulley torque is one of them)
the video is not for training,it is for people know how to do it,and just shows where and what need to be taken out on this specific engine,that is why he does not go very detailed explanation,he assumes you already know how to work on cars,not for first timer,all those torque are listed on line,can be googled,or manual,or you can call dealer,
Hello the same thing was happening to me it's very frustrating . After hours of looking at videos. I found a video of someone that explains that issue. ruclips.net/video/jfxGNo9KlFk/видео.html. You have to remove the slack on the belt and only have slack by the tensioner . Align the left back Cam in position put the belt on it and put a clip so the belt doesn't move. Then the right Cam move it one tooth to the left counterclockwise with the belt on then move cam one tooth clockwise back into position now you have removed the slack from the top. Now place belt over water pump. Move crank to the left counterclockwise one tooth. Place belt on crank and over tensioner. Put on the belt guide bolt that has the 10mm small bolt so belt doesn't move on you. Now put on the crank 22 mm bolt and move it to the right one tooth to the proper timing position. All the slack should be out and you can put on your tensioner. Tighten it slowly one side at a time. Also if your belt didn't have marks on it put some mine didn't have any . Put liquid paper or some marker on both cams and crank . On the crank there is a dot on the right side place mark there. This is the only way to get it perfectly aligned . I tried 4 times and was always one tooth or 2 teeth off. You want it exact.
This is one of the best automotive videos I've ever seen on the web.
Thanks, I appreciate your comments
Just finished replacing the water pump, timing belt and tensioner on my '99 RX300. With your instructions, the operation was a total success. The bit about removing the studs was especially helpfull. I used a couple of jam nuts and a wrench on the studs to help the Torx socket, so it wouldn't break off the stud tips. I had a REALLY rough time getting the harmonic balancer bolt off. I ended up making a tool which uses the two threaded holes in the pulley to keep the crank from turning. Thanks!
This video was very thorough and professionally developed. I was able to change the timing belt in my car with minimal issues. Great job.
Very informative video. You make it seem as if changing a timing belt was an easy 1 hour job!
Always looks easy when a pro does it. I just read a DIY guy's post on changing the timing belt of his 2004 Lexus RX330. He said "be prepared for a two-day job". He rated the job difficulty a 9 out of 10.
@@polymyxa8233 I learned how change timing belt from this channel 7 years ago , now I can done this job about 2 hours , whatever how hard I try just can’t make it in an hour. 😂
@@culebrasty Get it done in two hours? Wow, that's a REAL pro! Getting it done in one hour gotta be a TV pro :).
wow thank you for making this video, 11 years later, super clear and easy to follow. plus the narrator's voice is very encouraging and positive
Thanks, I appreciate you taking the time to comment
what can I say but excellent work Love the way you used the Tie straps on the belt sprockets. I replaced a Lexus LS 400 timing belt used my Daughters boy friend extra pair of hands. I wish I could known that Idea, the way you explained everything was perfect real down to earth I need to get those stud extractors very nice tool. Awesome
Great video its a little easier on my 02 Sienna I have more room, I did not need to mess with the lower engine mount, I followed every step and was successful , without this video it would've been a nightmare, Thank you soo much
I think I would have tried to find a replacement stud for the one that was broken, so when I had to do the belt again in a few years I would have had a better chance to get that bracket off without having to raise the engine again. But I can understand why you want to work around that problem, as it might have taken a few days to find such a specialized stud and your customer wanted his car back.
Thanks again for posting this video, which is by far the best timing belt video on the internet.
Great job guys, especially liked the wire tie tip to keep the belt in place.
I just had a buddy do my timing belt while I watched him. Watching this video afterwards was very entertaining, since I knew about every single part, and it helped me retain that knowledge.
This is really good stuff. Accurate information all in a timely manner thanks to good video editing. Thanks
Great video and very clear.!!!!! I'm in the process of having to change timing belt and water pump on a V6 Toyota Camry.It's the same set up. hopeful wouldn't have any dramas.Keep them coming Guys.
thanks...
Great video. The only thing I'll add, after replacing my timing belt on an 02 Sienna with the same motor, is that after you release the tension on the hydraulic tensioner, check your timing before you button it back up. If you don't, and you are off a tooth, your engine will be toast!! To do this, spin the crankshaft two full revolutions or 720 degrees. To do this, put the crankshaft bolt back in without the harmonic balancer, and use a long handled breaker bar or ratchet to turn the motor clockwise only. If you meet hard resistance (other than pressure building up in the cylinders) then stop as you may have made a mistake and a valve may be hitting the top of the cylinder. After you turn the crankshaft over two full revolutions, check the timing marks on the two upper camshafts to be sure they are pointing to their respective reference marks on the black timing cover behind the cam sprockets. Don't worry about the marks on the belt. Just check to make sure the marks on the crankshaft and the two camshaft sprockets pointing to their respective reference marks on the motor (same ones as earlier). Also, I used a couple of the inexpensive black plastic spring clamps from HF to hold the belt on the pulley instead of using zip ties. On the Sienna, it was very hard to get the zip tie on the back pulley, so I tried the clamps. They work great. Easy on, easy off, and they have strong tension so they hold on nicely. I put them on the bottom of the cam sprockets so it held the tension for the whole top section above that point on the sprocket.
thanh dang
Yes. Everything turns just as if it will all turn once you engage the starter to start the motor. Don't worry about the mark (white line) on the belt. It will not end up in the same place. The concern is checking the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the harmonic balancer to make sure they come back to line up with the marks where they started. The benefit of doing it before you try to start the motor is that if you are off a tooth, you can remove the belt and fix it. If you don't do this and you are off one tooth, and you start the motor you will pretty much ruin the top end of the motor. That means you'll have to pull the heads and replace valves. Very expensive.
thanh dang Can't hurt. It is always a good idea that whenever any work is done on the timing mechanism of a motor to pull it thru at least 2 turns -one complete cycle- to make sure that there is no collision. Then check your timing one more time. only takes a minute.
the 1MZ-FE isn't interference so nothing would be toast you would just have to do it over
Dewd, this is a free-wheeling engine: the valves won't hit the pistons - but generally this is good advice.
The 1MZ-FE engine is non-interference, so you don't have to worry about bending valves.
thank you thank you very much for this video it helped me a great deal its better than a repair manual GREAT JOB
Very helpful info. Puts my mind at ease about doing it myself. Thanks again!
Excellent, thanks for uploading. Well presented and helpful.
thank you for saving my time, good editing and good commentary.
Very nice once again guys!!!! Thank you for posting your videos! Very helpful
Thank you SOOO muck for posting this. I almost took my Rx 300 in.
Superb! Thanks much for taking time to educate us, and for the kind public service.
That video was perfect very informative!
Great video of all I looked at - great details,the best step by step. I replaced other cars, years ago but not v-6 or v8 Super job ~Marshall Juckem
Thank you for sharing it. This is really very helpful.
great video good job my friend it helped a lot thanks
Thank you very helpful love the videos 5 stars
That was awesome. Great video guys
You'll notice he has a contingency plan for every eventuality, which suggests he's done this many times before. So he doesn't cuss, he just goes to plan "B."
Great video!!!!!! Thank you for sharing.
thanks it is very useful the tip on that metal back plate
save me a lot of troble
I just finished up doing my 1mzfe timing belt and head gaskets... I didn't find it necessary to remove any studs at all. Some of the mount brackets and the water pump was a little tight coming out and going in but they went within too much hassle.
For added peace of mind, I also marked the crankshaft pulley so I know the belt is correct before I pull the pin on the grenade tensioner. This technique saved my butt in a HUGE way.
Good video, thanks. I guess, it's a good idea to change also the engine front seals.
Do you know what would be really good that you give torque settings as you go
Thanks. Helped a lot.
nice tip with the zip ties
i would have created my own timing mark with a paint stick on the hard to see cam gear and would have rotated the engine by hand 2x just to make sure the marks are on time and didnt jump a tooth after releasing the tensioner overall a very good instructional video for double ohc.
Love the videos! Suggestion: could you turn the opening credit sound a bit? Also, it's a bit sharp on the ears (treble), but thank you soo much for posting!
I thank you for the info on how to replace the belt kit, just want to know the part number or brand of bolt extractor used here. Thanks again.
Great step by step, but I do think you need to stress how important it is that the viewer understands that the tension between the two cams is tight as well as the correct amount of teeth remain between the two cams when you put the new belt on. I do this by marking the old belt (and pulley) before the old belt comes off and then transfer those same marks to the new belt and make certain they are the same number of teeth apart.
Very informative video.
Really nice vid. Works for the 3.3 liter engine, too.
Thanks it’s very good information 🙏🙏
Great video, but how come you didn't use the marks on the new timing belt. It makes it so much easier.
I saw you had a Gates kit, and the new belt had the marks. The only thing that's confusing about the belt marks are as if you are sitting on the transmission. (L Cam is the front R Cam is the rear) and the CR mark matches up with the other dot on the crank gear at about 4 o'clock.
Watch out though, the marks only work if the belt is not reversed. I got my belt reversed the first time. The engine still ran, but the ECU said there was an error. I had to do the whole job again, but thankfully no engine damage.
Great idea to replace the water pump while replacing timing belt, but should've gone the extra step and replaced the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals as well.if any of them begin to leak, you will have to get back to this point anyway.
@canoeshoe You run the engine at rest for long enough to open the thermostat, and the engine 'burps' air away, pushed by the water pump, to the radiator.
@sbab83 it should be a free wheeling motor not an interference engine. To be sure check the timing belt book. Most of the Camery engine like the Lexus 3.0L are not interference type. I like how the video shows using tie straps to hold the cam sprocket and belt in place without any expensive tools. The stud removal kit is cheaper if you buy the whole set of metric and standard.
Great video, but it would've been better if they replaced the camshaft and crankshaft seals while he was in there.
I agree 100% with you. It seems kinda crazy to me that people are changing timing belts but are not replacing the camshaft and crankshaft seals.
Best video ever...esp the part about taking off the water pump without removing those cam sprockets. Now how do tighten the harmonic balancer without an impact gun
You need a torque wrench. If you can, use 6 point sockets, too.
Great video! Thanks!
After mounting the timing belt you may want to run it to see if the water pump leaks or not. No sense putting it all together then finding out you have a defective pump or seal.
Good video. Only addition would be to replace the cam and crank seals due to the fact that they will eventualy leak.
This is a great educational video for beginner. I am planning to replace my timing belt for the first time and have been watching this clip for number of times. I wonder what brand Stud Extractor in this clip.
Would probably be a good idea to hand turn the engine over a few times with a breaker bar before turning it on in order to make sure the timing didn't slip during the install.
toyotas are a joy to work on in my opinion
b*: Try Doing A Thermostat (2.5 hrs) or Spark Plug & Coil Pks Replace,Which U Have To Remove Intake & Throttle Body,To Replace Back 3 Plugs on ES330,(2.75-3.5hrs), These 2 Jobs May Change Ur Opinion.& If T.Belt Isn't Done Correctly ,W/Tensioner Replacement,The 3.3 is An Interference Eng.Meaning ,If Tensioner Or Something Isn't Done Correctly,& Ur New T. Belt Breaks,UR ENGINE IS TOAST,BEING AN INTERFERENCE ENG.
You are the best sir!!!
Thanks, I appreciate your comments
First of all, great video !!! It is very helpful. I know you said those stud removers were at Autozone's loan area but could you please tell us exactly which will work ? I noticed there is a std and metric set and some off a link from your website. Also, I couldn't get my Toyota dealership to find those two studs on their parts lookup, does anyone here have the Toyota part number for those two studs? Thanks
you guys are really the best
I was just thinking, man that's a big job!
you can just use vice grips for the stud... simple solution works every time... heat the stud up with a torch if it's siezed...
Excellent video
Great video thanks
good job but i would have replaced the broken bolt and adding some anti-seize lubricant for the next time around.
That part isn't something Toyota would stock. May not be available. While it is cosmetically broken, it wouldn't be worth delaying the repair and inconveniencing a customer. I would disclose the broken bolt head, but would continue the repair.
when you do the belt you always do the tensioner & waterpump too, thats way its done for the next 50,000 or so miles.
good or bad you change to save your self the trouble.
Thanks again 🙏🙏🌹🌹
Can you rotate the cam gear clockwise 360 without the belt and be still in time?
good job
Great guide. I would love to know what method is used to keep the crankshaft from turning when torque-ing down the pulley bolt.
Almost every guide I've come across skips over that part entirely or just mentions tightening it with no description of how to lock the crankshaft.
The Haynes guide is vague as hell, and describes inserting a large screw driver into flywheel teeth or torque converter bolts, with no mention of how to even go about it.
Remove the starter and access through the hole?
Remove the inspection plate beneath auto transmission to access torque converter?
Is that area filled with trans fluid? Is it even accessible without removing stuff from beneath the engine?
Is it even a good idea shoving a screw driver into the flywheel and then forcing it to endure the 219Nm it takes to drive down the pulley bolt?
Good observation and question. I believe there can be several ways to keep the crank from turning. Most of us use some sort of way to hold or wedge something in the teeth to keep it from turning. Just be careful and you will be ok.
Thank guys. Really good tips.
Thank you for these videos! I would like to see how to change the cam seals as well. I've got another ten thousand miles before I have to do this job.
Can you please let me know about other parts such as the heater adjustment valve and the video air conditioning?I also have a Lexus RX 300 and I want to have some information thanks 🙏🌹👋🌹🙏
can you be more specific ?
Let me see ... 1/2" impact, 3/4" impact, foot and inch pound torque wrenches, stud removal tool, wobbly sockets, floor jack, gear puller, and a few other things. Can you do this job if you only have a crescent wrench, vise-grips, and a hammer if you have the time to spend doing it? Good video. Thanks for the TIPS for when things go wrong.
I too want to know if this can be done with minimal tools. I have torque wrenches but no impact/no stud removal/no gear puller.
1/2" cordless high impacts these days can produce up to 1200 ft lbs to break it loose. Pulley removal tool from harbor freight cost less than 15 bucks. So better to get the tools. You may have to buy bolts separately.
awesome
vid
did you put any compound on the water pump or just the gasket Is it necessary to replace water pump, hydrolic tensioner; i'm a novice so wonder how long till they would come out to burn you. great vid. thanks.
Kudos to you MAN!
what is the name of the stud removal tool? Another awesome video! ~ Dylan
It is a Assenmacher Specialty Tools 200-10 10mm Stud Remover and Installer.
Do we need to oil the hydraulic tensioner shaft/bolt before we put it in to the tensioner and tighten it?When I took my tensioner off it was oily all over the tensioner shaft/bolt.So makes me wonder either some how oil gets there to lubricate it, I nee to lubricate it before I put it on or I might have oil leaking that got in to the tensioner...If it needs to be lubricated they shall it be oil or grease?Note that the timing belt is going be above the tensioner shaft/bolt so there is no oil or grease that will be getting on the timing belt if it is moderately applied. So do we or we do not need to lubricate the tensioner shaft/bolt?
Nice kit tool
My replacement belt had timing marks on the belt. Per the video, I lined up the timing marks on the crank /cams, removed the old belt. I simply made sure the marks on the new belt lined up exactly with the marks on the crank/cams pulleys.
What size stud extractor bit did you use in order to extract the studs before pulling off the water pump?
nice
I have an odd question, my buddy has a 03 Sienna that has this engine and the belt is out of time, whoever installed it before he bought it didn't time it right. The crank bolt isn't coming off but I'm wondering if it's possible if I just took the tensioner out, removed the top cover and took the belt off the cams and retimed it that way by just using the marks on the outer crank pulley and rotated the crank to TDC. Only thing that I'm not sure about is that the tensioner pulley is the last to go on and I wont be able to remove the belt from the tensioner since the lower cover will still be on.
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I don't think I'd ever want to keep a car until it needs a timing belt replaced! So many things can go wrong trying to replace it!
How hard is it to replace the front crank seal and cam seals on this engine? Book time for the crank seal is showing 7.3 hours and 4.6 hours for one of the cam seals or 3.2 hours for just the belt. Yes all the times are over lapping so I'm figuring 8 hours total.
Also I am working on a 2000 Avalon, I believe it is the same engine. They look identical to me.
Oh and very nice video! Thanks Mike
good thankyou
when you are aligning the timing marks for the pulley for the RH cylinder head is it supposed to snap into place (TDC) like the LH cylinder head? i find that the LH pulley snaps to TDC very easily, but the RH pulley doesn't want to snap to TDC. I know the camshafts are aligned correctly to their perspective dots, but i dont know if setting to tdc like that is normal. if you can recall how it felt when you did it for this video, please let me know if I am right or wrong.thanks(awesome turotial!)
So did you replace it? Did you o it yourself? I'm just asking because I'm about to order the kit and wondering how curate the video is
@canoeshoe Autozone has it in their loan-a-tool section.
What is the procedure to guide the timming on the pulleys...i wasted all day using hanes manual....please help
awesome videos...what's the part number on the stud extractor tool? just in case...thanks in advance
It is a Assenmacher Specialty Tools 200-10 10mm Stud Remover and Installer. Amazon.
Why did you reuse the broken stud? Wouldn't be easier to replace it to make it easier for the next time we need to service it? Did you put in coolant?
+Joe Black big talk idiot
+Johnathon Wheeler can you please elaborate on it as to why I am an idiot? How much does a stud cost? Not replacing will make it harder for the person who work in the car.
+Joe Black : I have the same observation as you. I worked on old cars and usually replaced water pump bolt/stud when they are corroded. It's cheap insurance
+2Phast4Rocket hey but it seems like Jonathan wheeler doesn't see it like the way we do.
no becauses your fuckin stupid
Grenade tensioner lol
One year ago I had my timing belt and water replaced. About a month ago the water pump started making noise. I replaced the water pump and within 60 miles it started making the same noise. Both pumps were tru flow from napa. We went ahead and replaced the pump with a toyota pump and it's making the same noise after less than 60 miles. Do you have any idea what can be causing this problem. thank you
How would you get the coolant back in the block after reinstalling the waterpump when the thermostat is closed? This is about the only part i dont understand.
What if i believe mine is out of time. I bought an 05 Lexus they never replaced timing belt. From my understanding is not an interference motor, so I'm still safe...??..is this true? If so, I've tried to move pulleys and they barely move back n forth. I can't get them to turn over to line up in time. So i haven't removed belt yet. Is it possible to move individually to live up up? My car shut off on me so this the reason I'm asking. I was told timing belt slipped. Can i save my car?..please help
You have asked many good questions, and there are answers. However it does no good to guess. You may not like this answer but to find those answers you will need to do many several tests. I'd start with a vacuum test, then cylinder contribution, then compression. After you get those answers you should know if the engine is worth saving.
So timing marks on the new belt don’t matter?????
I bought timing belt kit from rockauto.com. I cannot get all timing marks lined up on belt. I turned engine over a couple of revolutions and now cams sprockets come a couple of teeth off.
what happened after replaced timing belt if it is off alittle bit?, thanks. i don't know why after i replaced timing belt and all check light showed on the screen.
Wait a second,you did not replace the messed up stud??
Lot of Work for a Timing Belt ,But I guess that’s Why a lot of these will go 300k no problem if you do the maint.Mechanic did a Great Job except at the End he just threw it back together without Explaining Any of it ?
I listened very carefully and we don't find out the torque specs for ALL the bolts; not during disassembly's or assemblies :( It would have been fine If it was mentioned during either the disassembly or assembly though (Hydrolic tension pulley torque is one of them)
the video is not for training,it is for people know how to do it,and just shows where and what need to be taken out on this specific engine,that is why he does not go very detailed explanation,he assumes you already know how to work on cars,not for first timer,all those torque are listed on line,can be googled,or manual,or you can call dealer,
@@BlueSkyGreenGrass54 That's why you buy the book and use this as extra reference. They can't spoon feed you..
It looks like I'm one tooth off. When the crank come back to TDC, the cam sprockets are about one tooth off.
Hello the same thing was happening to me it's very frustrating . After hours of looking at videos. I found a video of someone that explains that issue. ruclips.net/video/jfxGNo9KlFk/видео.html.
You have to remove the slack on the belt and only have slack by the tensioner . Align the left back Cam in position put the belt on it and put a clip so the belt doesn't move. Then the right Cam move it one tooth to the left counterclockwise with the belt on then move cam one tooth clockwise back into position now you have removed the slack from the top. Now place belt over water pump. Move crank to the left counterclockwise one tooth. Place belt on crank and over tensioner. Put on the belt guide bolt that has the 10mm small bolt so belt doesn't move on you. Now put on the crank 22 mm bolt and move it to the right one tooth to the proper timing position. All the slack should be out and you can put on your tensioner. Tighten it slowly one side at a time. Also if your belt didn't have marks on it put some mine didn't have any . Put liquid paper or some marker on both cams and crank . On the crank there is a dot on the right side place mark there. This is the only way to get it perfectly aligned . I tried 4 times and was always one tooth or 2 teeth off. You want it exact.