Thanks for making the video. It is good to see other people struggle with these cars. You said to be careful on the oil pan, but then it looked like you put the stand on the lowest point directly on the oil pan. These cars will starve for oil if the oil pan gets dented by jacks. The oil pick-up tube sits down in that bulge.
The motor is to be set three teeth back from TDC when moving the cams. Then, once the cams are safely in the proper locations (see manual), the motor is then set to one tooth BTDC. You slide on the belt (without screwdrivers to mangle the belt), move the engine to TDC, set a little tension, then set the final tension. Do not use a torque wrench. Too much trouble. Just set the tension so that the pin spins freely in the hole of the tensioner. Spin the motor over two or three times, BY THE CRANKSHAFT, to pump up the hydraulic lash adjusters and check to make sure all the timing marks line up. Do NOT use the cam locks. Use two bolts to hold the front intake cams in position (thread them into the head) while you route the timing belt. Use some metal paper clamps to hold the belt to the cams as you route the belt. Let the motor sit for 24 HOURS. This will insure that the new hydraulic tensioner and bolt assembly is going to hold and not lose hydraulic pressure before bolting it all back up. YOU MUST REPLACE the timing tensioner bolt and washer with a grade 8 bolt or better. DO NOT reuse the factory tensioner bolt or hydraulic tensioner. Use a support for the oil pan. DO NOT jack it up by the oil pan. More engines have been destroyed on these cars by idiots like this guy than you can count.
Julian Fierro ......he is a moron .....you dont need to let tensioner sit for 24 hours before starting engine ....5 minutes is all thats needed.....imagine how every belt job thats done is a 2 day ordeal ....secondly no manual is needed as it makes you do many unnecessary steps
only a moron would risk a total engine failure by not waiting 24 hours. It may take a lot longer for a hydraulic failure to reveal itself. Yeah, mechanics do it because they do not care.
tonkatoytruck ......well if it's risky I guess I'm one lucky guy as I have done probably over 100 timing belts with many of them having hydraulic tensioners and NEVER a single failure ....I should play lotto I guess ! Oh and on a side note , even the instructions say FIVE minutes not 24 hours
How would you know what the manual says? I guess it also says to use two screwdrivers and tear up the timing belt installing it too. I am currently replacing ALL the intake valves on a buddies car after a mechanic like you installed a timing belt. Tensioner was faulty from the factory.
Looks like a great idea for getting all the cams in perfect position! As far as holding the screwdriver against the belt, on other applications I've use a half of a wooden clothes pin, which is tapered, and used that to do what the screwdriver was doing. If the clearance is good it will hold tight and not require an extra hand to hold the clothes pin, it will stay in place by itself.
You failed to set the base tension on the belt. You must use a snap ring tool or other suitable tool to set the initial belt deflection on the tensioner pulley. The tensioner protrusion must be within spec or else the tensioner strut will move beyond its range, resulting in a loose belt and a damaged engine if it jumps time. Just setting the "happy face" is not correct and you could damage the tensioner mounting threads by hammering it in by doing it that way. Be warned.
Thanks for taking the time, great video. Might have missed a few things according to the armchair experts, but with everybody's input, reckon I'll have a go!
thanks for your comments, that's a good point, I wish I would have included it in the video. We try and cover all the points but sometimes we miss a few, thanks for bringing it to our attention.
to get rid of the slack all you have to do is push upward on the pulley directlty obove the crank pulley just until you here a pop then with a little adjustment once the pin is pulled out of the tensioner your good to go. il give you props though not alot of people like to take on a qud cam motor so good job. not here to hassle no one just letting you know of easier ways
you forgot to add to rotate the engine by hand 2 times and then double check the marks before you put everything back together to be double sure there is no contact.
@merryhobgoblin I agree 100% with your comment. As a Mitsubishi technician, I've replaced countless timing belts from Eclipses, Diamantes, Monteros & Evo's and I have NEVER done it like this. Using zip ties takes to long, binder clips is the easiest way to go.
Also after the base tension is set and the pin removed from the secondary tensioner turn the motor 2 full revlouciones just to be sure the cams are still in time with their marks and the crankshaft with its mark. Nice trick with the plastic tie wraps to hold the belt to the cams. thanks
No need to use the screwdriver friend. Simply set the crank 1 tooth BTDC, and once your cams are on time, and secured, go down and turn the crank to TDC, it will automatically pick up the slack on the non tension side. Much easier on you, and the belt.
I have several problems with this video. First you always turn the engine from the crank. Second you never hit a tensioner with anything other than a rubber mallet. But he did align the crank in the beginning by putting the engine at TDC
And yes you will have to set it a tooth or so back on the cams and adjust as necessary, you will notice they will change position after replacing the belt. Just be precautions can cause major damage!
Thr book also calls for the filing clips or paper clamps for timing belt holders u can buy a pack of them at your local dollar store also for those who rebuilt your top end tdc is based off cylinder one and when setting timjng crank tdc should be 3 teeth btdc so when u pull the hydrallic tensioner pen out it should rotate the crank clock wise on to tdc for top dead center timing. Assureing itll pass smog being 100% on time without beening even a tooth off...
good video, but I just did one on a dodge neon. I believe it is always best to rotate the belt by the crank. that taughts the belt on the cam, and prevents wear on the cam assembly. But maybe Mitsubishi is different. Just personal preference i guess.
alot of these comment ive read are true the easiest way to do it is with a steel plate paper clips it shouldnt be a two man job i can take the same timing belt comepletely off and have it back on in less than thirty minutes probably even less than twenty depending what mood im in but yea no sip ties required also you can use them when you dont have clips though ill give you some credit for using them and about the screw driver on the crank pulley thats not needed
@detectiveinspekta No, it's most likely a hydrolic lifter(HLA- hydrolica lash adjuster, same shit). Once you run the car for a little bit it fully pumps back up, thus no more ticking. Sometimes they take a while to pump back up. You probably need to replace a few of them. Try a slightly heavier weight of oil. If you are currently using 10w-30, try 10w-40 this will also help. Timing belt is recomended every 60k on most cars. If you have a water pump that is ran by the timing belt, change it too
@mustang4sho Just rotate the cams until all the marks line up properly. Try both ways and see which looks right. You'll probably get all lines or all dots. If you're putting a new tensioner in, you don't have to put a pin in the old one. The purpose of the pin is to keep the tensioner ram (screw) from pushing too far outward. Also important that you don't remove the pull pin from the new tensioner, before you have it installed. Otherwise, you'll need a vise, to push the ram screw back in.
honest to god, who ever invented the timing belt set up needs to be taken out back and worked over... Seriously, in modern times this form over function.
Just a small town girl Livin' in a lonely world She took the midnight train Goin' anywhere Just a city boy Born and raised in South Detroit He took the midnight train Goin' anywhere
@pickledsk8r Yes fixed it. Its something to do with the hydraulic lifters. All I did was a oil change. When I saw the oil coming out it was dirty as hell. Didn't realize its a good idea to change every 5000 km, I didn't change for something like 30000 km. After a few km the ticking went away. If its permanent then I read you have to change the hydraulic lifters to better ones
I would think wrapping the belt around the crank shaft first then around the cams would be easier? That's the way I've always done em, scaring up the belt may not be such a good idea... just sayin. And If I'm not mistaken just one tooth off of anyone of those sprockets will prevent the engine from rotating, so it'd probably be a good idea to have mentioned on any interference engine, to rotate it by hand first before you start cranking the starter.
doing the crank pully last is the worst and you never use a screw drive to "pull out the slack lol start from crank then go to the cam closest to the firewall i have done a t belt on the 3.5 izuzu trooper it is the same setup and it was easy as hell no screwdriver used to pull the slack
hi , I guess this video is for advanced techs . I have done it that way before and the end result est la meme. if you notice all the precaution steps they took with the cam marks so not mentioning anything about the crank mark is not an error for the pros. I am pretty sure in part 1 , the basic was mentioned .
I don't agree with the screwdriver bit? whycant you start fitting the belt on the crank first ? put a wooden wedge tokeep it in place and then feed the rest of the belt around the pulleys also should you not use a torque wrench set at 4nm to set the belt tension withthe special tool? turn enging 2 full rotations and wait 5 minutes and check that the pin will go back in the tensioner tomake sure its set correctly ??.
but the zip tie idea is much better for us shade-tree mechanics especially when doing the job alone. that belt ain't going nowhere with the zip tie and the extra few minutes are not a catastrophe. .
exactly why are the zip ties a bad idea? you aren't tightening them to the point of damaging the belt edge, just holding it from slipping a tooth. don't see anything wrong with that. .
literally thinking about pushing my vr4 over a cliff right now. (have to push it because my timing belt is off) I got everything in time, and was about to rotate the crankshaft to see if everything was solid, and the Fucking cam gear snapped and the belt came loose. I already have the tensioner on, and the pin out, so I have no idea how I'm gonna finish this job.
Hi, I followed this video step by step while doing my water pump and timing belt after I got everything back together, I looked at my cams again and the front cam was not lined up. I was so frustrated i tried starting the car and it wont turn over.... now i have to do the whole thing over. Is there and easier way to put it back in time?????
i have a ticking sound in my car mitsubishi when i start it on cold mornings. Goes away after 10minutes. I read it was oil pressure not enought so it builds up after 10min. Will a cambelt/timing belt fix this problem? I have had a oil change and filter change.
i meant to say zip ties arent required and one more thing you didnt show how to line up the crank sprocket theres poeple that dont know how to do that either
i was drivin my 3000gt vr4 awd this n that was in 4th racing hi rpm went into 3rd instead of 5th lost all oil pressure herd valve ticking and car wouldnt start again pistons are still good but i had ripped off like 10 teeth off my belt if i get a new belt do you think it will still run i can post a video of how it sounds
Авто/Мото
Thanks for making the video. It is good to see other people struggle with these cars. You said to be careful on the oil pan, but then it looked like you put the stand on the lowest point directly on the oil pan. These cars will starve for oil if the oil pan gets dented by jacks. The oil pick-up tube sits down in that bulge.
The motor is to be set three teeth back from TDC when moving the cams. Then, once the cams are safely in the proper locations (see manual), the motor is then set to one tooth BTDC. You slide on the belt (without screwdrivers to mangle the belt), move the engine to TDC, set a little tension, then set the final tension. Do not use a torque wrench. Too much trouble. Just set the tension so that the pin spins freely in the hole of the tensioner. Spin the motor over two or three times, BY THE CRANKSHAFT, to pump up the hydraulic lash adjusters and check to make sure all the timing marks line up.
Do NOT use the cam locks. Use two bolts to hold the front intake cams in position (thread them into the head) while you route the timing belt. Use some metal paper clamps to hold the belt to the cams as you route the belt.
Let the motor sit for 24 HOURS. This will insure that the new hydraulic tensioner and bolt assembly is going to hold and not lose hydraulic pressure before bolting it all back up. YOU MUST REPLACE the timing tensioner bolt and washer with a grade 8 bolt or better. DO NOT reuse the factory tensioner bolt or hydraulic tensioner.
Use a support for the oil pan. DO NOT jack it up by the oil pan. More engines have been destroyed on these cars by idiots like this guy than you can count.
tonkatoytruck you should do a video and show people exactly how it should be done!
Julian Fierro ......he is a moron .....you dont need to let tensioner sit for 24 hours before starting engine ....5 minutes is all thats needed.....imagine how every belt job thats done is a 2 day ordeal ....secondly no manual is needed as it makes you do many unnecessary steps
only a moron would risk a total engine failure by not waiting 24 hours. It may take a lot longer for a hydraulic failure to reveal itself. Yeah, mechanics do it because they do not care.
tonkatoytruck ......well if it's risky I guess I'm one lucky guy as I have done probably over 100 timing belts with many of them having hydraulic tensioners and NEVER a single failure ....I should play lotto I guess !
Oh and on a side note , even the instructions say FIVE minutes not 24 hours
How would you know what the manual says? I guess it also says to use two screwdrivers and tear up the timing belt installing it too. I am currently replacing ALL the intake valves on a buddies car after a mechanic like you installed a timing belt. Tensioner was faulty from the factory.
This was a good video. Any technician or layman should note all timing marks prior to removing the belt. Good job showing the use of the zip ties.
Very helpful video man, clean cut and straight to the point. Thank you!
Looks like a great idea for getting all the cams in perfect position! As far as holding the screwdriver against the belt, on other applications I've use a half of a wooden clothes pin, which is tapered, and used that to do what the screwdriver was doing. If the clearance is good it will hold tight and not require an extra hand to hold the clothes pin, it will stay in place by itself.
Done this in the past with some research & a assistant on a 2.4 for are very first time and didn't use the zip ties.. that's very helpful I think.
Love the zip tie trick! Great little tip.
Thats a good video. Its not easy making a video in such a tight space and trying to explain every move Thanks
You failed to set the base tension on the belt. You must use a snap ring tool or other suitable tool to set the initial belt deflection on the tensioner pulley. The tensioner protrusion must be within spec or else the tensioner strut will move beyond its range, resulting in a loose belt and a damaged engine if it jumps time. Just setting the "happy face" is not correct and you could damage the tensioner mounting threads by hammering it in by doing it that way. Be warned.
Amazing, you are the best Technician I ever saw by teaching us perfectly and accurately.
Thanks for taking the time, great video. Might have missed a few things according to the armchair experts, but with everybody's input, reckon I'll have a go!
thanks for your comments, that's a good point, I wish I would have included it in the video. We try and cover all the points but sometimes we miss a few, thanks for bringing it to our attention.
All u had to do was set the crank cog timing mark 1 tooth back and you could have avoided that Circus act you did with the screwdriver.
I was waiting for the air hammer to get that belt in there. I like this channel but this didn't impress me. Two guys even.
to get rid of the slack all you have to do is push upward on the pulley directlty obove the crank pulley just until you here a pop then with a little adjustment once the pin is pulled out of the tensioner your good to go. il give you props though not alot of people like to take on a qud cam motor so good job. not here to hassle no one just letting you know of easier ways
you forgot to add to rotate the engine by hand 2 times and then double check the marks before you put everything back together to be double sure there is no contact.
Binder clips work better for holding the belt on and they are reusable/dont need cut off.
zip ties are much more reliable especially for a shade tree mechanic doing this all alone and are you really worried about thirty cents?
.
Not more reliable by any means. The zip ties will not "clamp" like binder clips will. Binder clips are indeed superior to zip ties for this.
@merryhobgoblin I agree 100% with your comment. As a Mitsubishi technician, I've replaced countless timing belts from Eclipses, Diamantes, Monteros & Evo's and I have NEVER done it like this. Using zip ties takes to long, binder clips is the easiest way to go.
Also after the base tension is set and the pin removed from the secondary tensioner turn the motor 2 full revlouciones just to be sure the cams are still in time with their marks and the crankshaft with its mark. Nice trick with the plastic tie wraps to hold the belt to the cams. thanks
No need to use the screwdriver friend. Simply set the crank 1 tooth BTDC, and once your cams are on time, and secured, go down and turn the crank to TDC, it will automatically pick up the slack on the non tension side.
Much easier on you, and the belt.
I have several problems with this video. First you always turn the engine from the crank. Second you never hit a tensioner with anything other than a rubber mallet. But he did align the crank in the beginning by putting the engine at TDC
And yes you will have to set it a tooth or so back on the cams and adjust as necessary, you will notice they will change position after replacing the belt. Just be precautions can cause major damage!
Thr book also calls for the filing clips or paper clamps for timing belt holders u can buy a pack of them at your local dollar store also for those who rebuilt your top end tdc is based off cylinder one and when setting timjng crank tdc should be 3 teeth btdc so when u pull the hydrallic tensioner pen out it should rotate the crank clock wise on to tdc for top dead center timing. Assureing itll pass smog being 100% on time without beening even a tooth off...
Great video, thanks. :-)
good video, but I just did one on a dodge neon. I believe it is always best to rotate the belt by the crank. that taughts the belt on the cam, and prevents wear on the cam assembly. But maybe Mitsubishi is different. Just personal preference i guess.
alot of these comment ive read are true the easiest way to do it is with a steel plate paper clips it shouldnt be a two man job i can take the same timing belt comepletely off and have it back on in less than thirty minutes probably even less than twenty depending what mood im in but yea no sip ties required also you can use them when you dont have clips though ill give you some credit for using them and about the screw driver on the crank pulley thats not needed
I love the music in the background lol.
nice video, should have made one of these for my srt shift fork and shift selector
@detectiveinspekta No, it's most likely a hydrolic lifter(HLA- hydrolica lash adjuster, same shit). Once you run the car for a little bit it fully pumps back up, thus no more ticking. Sometimes they take a while to pump back up. You probably need to replace a few of them. Try a slightly heavier weight of oil. If you are currently using 10w-30, try 10w-40 this will also help. Timing belt is recomended every 60k on most cars. If you have a water pump that is ran by the timing belt, change it too
@mustang4sho Just rotate the cams until all the marks line up properly. Try both ways and see which looks right. You'll probably get all lines or all dots.
If you're putting a new tensioner in, you don't have to put a pin in the old one. The purpose of the pin is to keep the tensioner ram (screw) from pushing too far outward. Also important that you don't remove the pull pin from the new tensioner, before you have it installed. Otherwise, you'll need a vise, to push the ram screw back in.
dont forget to manually crank the engine around a couple of times by the crank bolt and make sure the marks line up.
honest to god, who ever invented the timing belt set up needs to be taken out back and worked over... Seriously, in modern times this form over function.
Bulldog clips from the office supply store much easier than the zip ties and you can use them over and over!
Just a small town girl
Livin' in a lonely world
She took the midnight train
Goin' anywhere
Just a city boy
Born and raised in South Detroit
He took the midnight train
Goin' anywhere
excelente tutorial.mr.Maldonado le escribe.gracias
@pickledsk8r Yes fixed it. Its something to do with the hydraulic lifters. All I did was a oil change. When I saw the oil coming out it was dirty as hell. Didn't realize its a good idea to change every 5000 km, I didn't change for something like 30000 km. After a few km the ticking went away. If its permanent then I read you have to change the hydraulic lifters to better ones
I've used binder clips to hold the belt instead of the zip ties. I think it's a little easier.
nice song
I would think wrapping the belt around the crank shaft first then around the cams would be easier? That's the way I've always done em, scaring up the belt may not be such a good idea... just sayin. And If I'm not mistaken just one tooth off of anyone of those sprockets will prevent the engine from rotating, so it'd probably be a good idea to have mentioned on any interference engine, to rotate it by hand first before you start cranking the starter.
Bolt with nut holds the cams in place. so they dont move.
search 3si for more help.
place one bolt with nut in between them to lock them in place.
Good video, thanks...!
I loved the work you did
Do not follow the instructions in this video. This process is completely wrong.
Read the manual folks then judge for yourself.
I agree, this video is very misleading. Always follow your service manual.
bluenaite ......only if you are inexperienced
How do you time the bottom crank ?
doing the crank pully last is the worst and you never use a screw drive to "pull out the slack lol start from crank then go to the cam closest to the firewall i have done a t belt on the 3.5 izuzu trooper it is the same setup and it was easy as hell no screwdriver used to pull the slack
hi , I guess this video is for advanced techs . I have done it that way before and the end result est la meme. if you notice all the precaution steps they took with the cam marks so not mentioning anything about the crank mark is not an error for the pros. I am pretty sure in part 1 , the basic was mentioned .
Bravo!
Great video! do you have a video on Mitsubishi 2.4 timing belt replacement?
thanks
I don't agree with the screwdriver bit? whycant you start fitting the belt on the crank first ? put a wooden wedge tokeep it in place and then feed the rest of the belt around the pulleys also should you not use a torque wrench set at 4nm to set the belt tension withthe special tool? turn enging 2 full rotations and wait 5 minutes and check that the pin will go back in the tensioner tomake sure its set correctly ??.
+Alan Cooper you know that the belt is kevlar reinforced, right ? also the outermost part is the least of your worries.
next time you tensioned paper clips on the belts to hold onto the cams its what we use at the dealer much faster
but the zip tie idea is much better for us shade-tree mechanics especially when doing the job alone. that belt ain't going nowhere with the zip tie and the extra few minutes are not a catastrophe.
.
Next time use large paper clips instead of those white straps. Paper clips are surprisingly good for that purpose
exactly why are the zip ties a bad idea? you aren't tightening them to the point of damaging the belt edge, just holding it from slipping a tooth. don't see anything wrong with that.
.
excellent ........
This part of the timing belt with cam gears would so much easier if they used cam gear locks instead of zip ties! Just saying
Journey FTW.
literally thinking about pushing my vr4 over a cliff right now. (have to push it because my timing belt is off) I got everything in time, and was about to rotate the crankshaft to see if everything was solid, and the Fucking cam gear snapped and the belt came loose. I already have the tensioner on, and the pin out, so I have no idea how I'm gonna finish this job.
pinter bagus.good good
awesome zip tie trick
...
Hi, I followed this video step by step while doing my water pump and timing belt after I got everything back together, I looked at my cams again and the front cam was not lined up. I was so frustrated i tried starting the car and it wont turn over.... now i have to do the whole thing over. Is there and easier way to put it back in time?????
How much more labor would it be if you had changed the front main seal and all 4 cam seals?
you forgot to aline the crankshaft, don't forget guys its important..
just a city boy living in south Detroit taking the midnight train anywhere
the explosion in the engine would bend valves or the piston would collide with the valves...
so is replacing the timing belt on the sohc motor the same way just easier becaue 2 cams instead of 4?
do you have a video on miitsubishi 3l its v6 1994 magna for timing belt replacement?
The bottom also of camshalft has to be timing? I'm referreng near at tensioner.
1999 2.0 16 valve timing eclipse
@ESH318V8 u have power tools and a lift
i have a ticking sound in my car mitsubishi when i start it on cold mornings. Goes away after 10minutes. I read it was oil pressure not enought so it builds up after 10min. Will a cambelt/timing belt fix this problem? I have had a oil change and filter change.
How long wuold you say this would take if someone did it thereself?
I would never use a Screwdriver to hold the belt like that!!!(YOU'VE PROBABLY DAMAGED THE BELT) BUTCHERY!!!!!!
i meant to say zip ties arent required and one more thing you didnt show how to line up the crank sprocket theres poeple that dont know how to do that either
i was drivin my 3000gt vr4 awd this n that was in 4th racing hi rpm went into 3rd instead of 5th lost all oil pressure herd valve ticking and car wouldnt start again pistons are still good but i had ripped off like 10 teeth off my belt if i get a new belt do you think it will still run i can post a video of how it sounds
what about the crankshaft. does that have to be aligned specifically?
watchmewalk DIG thank u so much this help save a lot of money
You seve me money
Is that a 6 bolts???
at 3:45 two men hands working like one.
@detectiveinspekta
i have the same prob
have you figured it out?
How hard is it to do the 6G74 engine in the second gen montero?
how do i know if my hydraulic tensioner is bad?
@imwnhjaaaaa you work at a stealership? thats nice to know
No torque wrench?
use bulldog clips, not zip ties
should have checked your marks before you pulled the pin
mazRa
using that screwdriver on the belt = f***ing bad idea!
very, very expensive damage.
IF YOU EVER DO THIS JOB PLEASE INVEST IN THE PLASTIC CAM LOCKS, WELL WORTH THE MONEY!