You can adjust the fence. Remove the aluminium cover of the fence. You will find two 4 mm Allen screws. Loosen them, adjust the alignment to the sawblade with a known square and parallel metal tube, e.g. a water level put between fence and blade, then tighten the Allen screws. Don’t forget to insert a folded piece of paper, playing card or thin cardboard between the far end of the blade and your tube. This will prevent kickbacks. Reassemble and check. There are quite number of vids on YT on exactly this issue. About the emergency power off switch, you can get a enlarged flap to install over the power on/ off button on E-Bay or Amazon around 10€. Sorry for my English, I am actually from Germany. Hope, I could help.
1. For the mitre - they should be orientated other way around (original installation), and the curve is used to put some lever after you unscrew the bolts to fix the wabble/tighten the T-piece in the T-channel. 2. The blade will not be untightened due to the quick stop. I use it for more than 2Y and never had such a problem. If there were some reports for it, either they had defective device or they did not tighten the blade enough. 3. The Fence - if I noticed well your is pretty lose (back support is pretty open - you should make it is tight as possible but not to obstruct the movement of the fence, of course)). Mine, to be tightened requires just 1-2cm travel of the handle. When I do so I do not do it fast but with some gentle push and the fence straightens itself (as I told before). In case there is a problem with the parallelism of the fence against the blade/metre channels, to adjust the fence, there are two bolts on the main aluminum profile which allow some movement/twist of the fence relative to the locking hardware. Regards.
Great info thank you. Ad 1 - I thought I was doing something I shouldn't 😅 Ad 2 - seen 4 or 5 reviews on different websites people starting they came loose but as you say the machine could have been faulty or they did something wrong. Ad 3 - yes I did tightened the back and manage to almost remove it. As someone said it could be a case of getting used to it. Thank you again for the comment 👍
I've modified the stop/start by extending the switch to the front of the saw so now can see the switch. Also added a stop paddle so can stop saw with hand or knee. Made a box approx 100 to 125mm deep which original switch fits in the front and the back screws into plastic panel. Made extension cables to join switch to to original saw connections. Works a treat.
Regarding the fence, on my Ryobi I used my left thumb to hold the front end tight against the rail and then pressing the lock lever with other hand. This works lot better because there is more contact surface on the front end of the fence while the hook at the back is just for the lock. Wider contact surface equals better repeatable accuracy, just like the difference between a small and large square.
had SOO much trouble finding this video, clicked on the link and it just keeps taking me to another video... finally! i'm here, great review btw, thank you!
Thanks for the review. I’ve had the metabo for 5 years now. I’ve 3d printed a flap for the stop button (free from Thingiverse) and it works a treat. Mine has a secondary hose connector on the blade guard which takes much better care of the dust spray. The fence alignment issue has not really affected me all that much. It’s more of a psychological issue than a practical challenge I think. My personal biggest challenge is the size of the mitre slots as I cant get any 3rd party accessories for it.
I used HDPE plastic for the miter slots. I had a piece with a thickness that fit snugly in the miter slots. This allowed me to make a saw sled that I really enjoy.
@@S4t4nk4 I used the top one. The conductive strip is 12mm wide and 8.2mm high. my saw sled has a bottom of 6mm thick plywood. I attached the guide strip with small nails. I hammered this through the plywood bottom into the plastic strip.
Thanks for the updated review. From what you have identified I think my Rage (thanks to your extremely useful fine tuning guides) is great value for money 👍👍
I don't have that saw but another budget saw, a Lumberjack jog site. The fence is very similar and I found a way around it. I try to shim or tighten up the front clamp, then choose a way to adjust the fence, e.g. pushing lightly on front clamp then sliding it along to adjust it using just one spot on the front clamp. Then clamp it down and see how far out it is. Release it then adjust the fence on the rear clamp to take up that error. It might a few goes to get it right but it does work. As long as you push the front clamp in, then slide the fence along from the same spot every time then clamp, it should be a reliable way to work it. I might additionally double check with a ruler on important work or where the level of accuracy is critical. I have been really pleased on just how accurate and reliable it has been
Thanks for the review. This was my choice saw when shopping for a compact table saw. It´s very well made, I have the TS 254 M with the support table and side sled, pretty much the whole set-up for this Metabo. Extraction for this size table Is basically the same or worst for other tables In the "site" table saw category (job site). Worst Issue Ist the size (width) of the table rails which are smaller then the standard rail, so you have to 3d your fittings. What I did was buy a cheap cutting board made of nylon, cut strips the size of the rails and then trim to fitting. Works great and cheap! As for the fence, there's videos out there that show how to adjust both ends with the top screws. You also need to adjust the angle of the blade with a digital angle finder. Unscrew that little cover on the tilt guide to gain more angle If needed and retighten It when you the have the 90ª angle dialed In. I am very happy with this table, and the Dewalt also has some Issues so be happy with you´re Metabo. I also have the Metabo BAS 318 bandsaw, so yeah I am kind of a Metabo fan. Although my Evolution RS210 Is awesome for all kinds of cuts too! Good care and cheers!
I recently bought the Metabo TS254 and like you was very disappointed by the fence as I spent a long time looking for a saw that the had a fence that clamped at both ends. The outstanding features for me were the compactness for storage and the stable and built in stand. I had considered the Rage 5 but noticed on many RUclips videos that the stand appeared a little wobbly. Coming back to the fence issue I have found the solution for me is to move the the fence slightly beyond the setting required and then use the little thumb wheel to align it on the correct dimension before clamping, so far this has worked every time.
Hmm the stand of Rage 5s has got some feet you can adjust to prevent any woble and the frame is very sturdy. Never had issues with Rage being wobbly. I have to try out your way of setting the fence on the Metabo.
I've had the Rage 5S for now 3 years and still happy with it. About dust extraction, I put off the dust pipe between blade cap and vacuum connector, plugged the blade cap and the vacuum connector to leave only the low vacuum connected. This has been a great improvement and I never see my trousers full of dust as you show ! If not yet paradise, it's quite better now. Just my two cents… and thanks for that video full of honesty ! 😃
Thanks for the review, I've had my TS 254 for over 3 years now. Both the loose mitre and fence alignment are issues Ive had to minimize as well. There are methods that use the bolts atop the fence and a sheet of paper for the fence-blade parallel adjustment, all the vids I found were in German (even google translate couldn't give me the jist) it would be good if someone could do this in English. Honestly it's a good saw for that price but I don't do enough work to justify buying another.
I have had mine for about 18 months, the TS254M and I love it. I have 3D printed a stop flap and some mitre slot runners for my jigs. I agree about the fence although as I have said before I always use a square to align it anyway, just my way. Dust collection is fabulous from the back port but I don't have one on the blade guard and do experience some dust blow back from the blade. I would be interested in finding a blade guard with a dust port. I wear an apron and have a vacuum cleaner nearby for that 😅 But on the whole I am very pleased with mine, it works for me. Thank you for your review Tomasz as always it is interesting 👍
Don't know if this helps, but I have a fabulous DW743 flip-over saw, with the same dust problem in saw table mode. I found a Woodford Woodworking Crown Guard which comes with a dust port. Fixed the issue. 30 quid.
you could drill two holes in the part that goes down in the front of the sliding guide and thread them and put a couple of bolts in them and put Loctite on threads to make it permanent
I have a range 5s for which I have built an overhead blade guard and dust extractor. Using this has reduced the forward dust fling to a small sprinkling. I also have a switchable valve at the back, which allows me to extract, from stopped cuts, from the back dust port. Between these two I have significantly reduced the dust output from the saw. Though I would not claim it's perfect.
Im in such a doubt right now while looking forward acquiring my 1st table saw. This seems to have such a sturdy construction and build but that fence looks horrible. Im considering DWE 7492 as well.
Tomasz, thanks for the great review and tips like , I'll give that at try rather than the tape I have stuck on the side of the bar. I've had my saw since 2020, I'm pleased with it generally as I can fold it away under my mitre station (DIY Montreal style), lots of power, easy adjustment of the riving knife as you point out. My two main frustrations have been: 1) the mitre slot dimensions preventing the use of an aftermarket mitre gauge but if flipping round the plastic adjustment pieces in the mitre gauge bar works I might look at getting a a new gauge and swopping the bars. I've also thought about buying the sliding crosscut carriage from Metabo (628900000) at approx £130 but I've not seen any reviews of this adaption. 2) keeping the fence parallel with the blade, but I can now try the tip of pulling the handle as you included in the video. Like you, I like the metal insert and I'll have to try making a zero clearance insert plate this year, but I found some "FastCap Zero Clearance Tape" on Amazon that I'll have a go with in the meantime. I'm also interested in the suggestions your viewers are adding on how to move the power switch and include a STOP paddle (thanks everyone). Keep up the great work producing videos of your projects and tool reviews, all the best for Christmas and 2024.
I have a sliding carriage on my Rage 5S and I hardly use it to be honest. Yes I need a stop paddle as I find the current setup very frustrating. Thank you for your kind words. All the best, Happy Christmas
I have been using this saw for over 2 years and I brought it as my first ever table saw. I thought im having issues with the fence because im a beginner but it looks like it wasn't my fault. At this point i believe its fair to assume that this fence is just badly designed.
this fence is similar to the metabo bandsaw fence I have, i stopped relying on it and just use straight edge and some squares, could use an upgrade to a bandsaw which allows after-market fences but you work with what you got :) unless i hit jackpot no way i am buying new tools :)
Fantastic review, Tomasz! Thanks a bunch! 😃 But yeah, for the dust extraction alone it's very interesting! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very interesting review. FYI: That version of the saw is not sold in the USA. The model sold here, the Metabo HPT C10RJS, is a completely different saw. It addresses the two major complaints discussed in the video: 1. The off switch has an emergency stop flap. The switch is also located on the left front, rather than the right front, of the saw. You can easily turn the saw of with your knee in an emergency. 2. The fence is a rack and pinon design, so it stays parallel to the blade. The miter gauge and blade guard are also different. I'm not sure if they're better, worse, or just different. The USA verison retains the outfeed support of the UK version. That's one of the best features of the Metabo HPT table saws.
@@CasualDIY I'm a very casual DIYer, looking to get my first TS but dont have much cash to spare, seems like every cheap one has many saying problems with inaccuracy which defeats the objective of actually having a TS.
It does have the expandable wing to the right and that's about it. It's nice and sturdy. If you need more support then you will have to DIY something out.
If I understand correctly this particular model has been replaced by the TS 254 "M" model. A few of the bigger tool suppliers in the UK don't stock the older model anymore.
@@CasualDIY Actually I've looked further into this and am more confused! The "M" seems to have been released at least 3 years ago but at least one difference seems to be that your machine The TS254 is 2000w whereas the TS254M model is only 1500w, so that is a significant difference in power.
Thanks for letting us know about this 'upgrade', much appreciated, but another £20-£30 to replace something that should never passed QA in the first place!! Apart from making your own insert, you can stick some steel strips to the underside of the original which will stiffen it up quite a bit 👍
Just purchased a Rage 5 direct from Evolution. They discounted to £304 and it currently included a metal table insert which included both a 90 and 45 degree insert. Currently following CasualDiy videos in making upgrades and have it now cutting nice and true.
@@michaelburrell6761 Hmmm that's interesting ... I'm tempted to email them and try to shame them into giving me a new metal insert for nothing 😁 Edit: Just sent an email, will let you know how I get on 👍
A great video. I've owned this saw for a very short time and glad it left, I have to be brutally honest here, I hated it. Starting up like an F16 in terms of noise. You are right about the power switch, it's the wrong specification and in the wrong place. Firstly it should be to the left of the machine as you work primarily to the left of the blade, secondly the switch should protrude further out and have a kick flap fitted, so it's the wrong specification for UK HSE requirements, how the heck did this get through. One thing to be aware of with the rear sliding fence is it can stiffen when sliding in or out, make sure the rods are clean and lubricated. The other thing that really got on my nerves was the direction of the blade angle, it's the wrong direction. If you're ripping with a bevel, the bevel goes in to the fence, not away from it, meaning you have to strip the rip fence, replace the fence plate the other side and lock it, this can cause the fence to be out of alignment.. I didn't notice blade nut slackening, but I did find dust management issues but with a powerful enough extractor it cleared up fine. I think this saw needs redesigning to be honest, it's a bad saw from these perspectives. Oh, by the way, the additional sliding rail unit, leave it alone, it is a nightmare to calibrate and set up, if you take the machine to sites and use the sliding rail unit, you're wasting time. If it was me, I'd redesign that saw and offer a better solution. or if I had the chance, I'd develop a table saw that was built like a site saw for portability, but had the features of a cabinet saw.
I’ve only got the rage5s and from many table saw reviews like your good self very knowledgeable I still think that pound for pound the rage5s offers more than many others yes it has issues but non that are insurmountable great vid Tomaz
For about GBP450 you can get the DeWalt DWE7485 (a stand would be extra). If you are looking for a jobsite type saw I can recommend it. It's done everything I've thrown at it and the dust extraction (if you add the DeWalt Y-splitter hose) is pretty reasonable. If you use it with a crosscut sled then the dust extraction is about as good as the Metabo 🤣 Having had a couple of Evo saws I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole after switching to the DeWalt.
Got to agree about the DeWalt. Every time I look to upgrade it I read about other manufacturer's fence issues in reviews and think maybe I'll just stick with what I've got. I can't fathom why they don't all use a variation of the DeWalt rack and pinion.
@@Paulfarr1964 I think the upgrade path from something like the DeWalt would be to a "proper" table saw, rather than another jobsite saw. I can't see myself needing anything better than the DeWalt for the work I do. I am, once I get my workshop reconfigured, intending to build a trolley for it with a fold-down outfeed table. I have to work in a very small space.
I've come to the conclusion that most saws are a complete and utter rip-off with regards price ... it's a motor with a blade attached which can move up/down and tilt ... it's not rocket science!! The Rage 5S is a pretty good saw, only let down by some of the cheapness of the parts, another few quid spent on the parts and it'd have been perfect (for the price range) 👍 Another perfect example of rip-off prices are bandsaws ... look at the price difference as you go from 14" up to 18", a complete joke!! And breathe 😁
You can adjust the fence. Remove the aluminium cover of the fence. You will find two 4 mm Allen screws. Loosen them, adjust the alignment to the sawblade with a known square and parallel metal tube, e.g. a water level put between fence and blade, then tighten the Allen screws. Don’t forget to insert a folded piece of paper, playing card or thin cardboard between the far end of the blade and your tube. This will prevent kickbacks. Reassemble and check. There are quite number of vids on YT on exactly this issue.
About the emergency power off switch, you can get a enlarged flap to install over the power on/ off button on E-Bay or Amazon around 10€.
Sorry for my English, I am actually from Germany. Hope, I could help.
Perfect English there👍
Thank you so much for these tips. I will try to follow your instructions and get that fence sorted.
Thank you
@@CasualDIYhow did that work?
Cab you share any videos on doing what you describe? Thanks
@obelustheodd not done it yet unfortunately 😕
1. For the mitre - they should be orientated other way around (original installation), and the curve is used to put some lever after you unscrew the bolts to fix the wabble/tighten the T-piece in the T-channel.
2. The blade will not be untightened due to the quick stop. I use it for more than 2Y and never had such a problem. If there were some reports for it, either they had defective device or they did not tighten the blade enough.
3. The Fence - if I noticed well your is pretty lose (back support is pretty open - you should make it is tight as possible but not to obstruct the movement of the fence, of course)). Mine, to be tightened requires just 1-2cm travel of the handle. When I do so I do not do it fast but with some gentle push and the fence straightens itself (as I told before). In case there is a problem with the parallelism of the fence against the blade/metre channels, to adjust the fence, there are two bolts on the main aluminum profile which allow some movement/twist of the fence relative to the locking hardware.
Regards.
Great info thank you.
Ad 1 - I thought I was doing something I shouldn't 😅
Ad 2 - seen 4 or 5 reviews on different websites people starting they came loose but as you say the machine could have been faulty or they did something wrong.
Ad 3 - yes I did tightened the back and manage to almost remove it. As someone said it could be a case of getting used to it.
Thank you again for the comment 👍
I've modified the stop/start by extending the switch to the front of the saw so now can see the switch. Also added a stop paddle so can stop saw with hand or knee. Made a box approx 100 to 125mm deep which original switch fits in the front and the back screws into plastic panel. Made extension cables to join switch to to original saw connections. Works a treat.
Interesting, I wish it was made better to start with tho specially for that kind of money
Regarding the fence, on my Ryobi I used my left thumb to hold the front end tight against the rail and then pressing the lock lever with other hand. This works lot better because there is more contact surface on the front end of the fence while the hook at the back is just for the lock. Wider contact surface equals better repeatable accuracy, just like the difference between a small and large square.
Good tip thanks 👍
had SOO much trouble finding this video, clicked on the link and it just keeps taking me to another video... finally! i'm here, great review btw, thank you!
@@trje246 thank you for watching 👍
The best job side saw dewalt 8 1/4. I have too 10 inch dewalt older version very good too.
Thanks for the review. I’ve had the metabo for 5 years now. I’ve 3d printed a flap for the stop button (free from Thingiverse) and it works a treat. Mine has a secondary hose connector on the blade guard which takes much better care of the dust spray. The fence alignment issue has not really affected me all that much. It’s more of a psychological issue than a practical challenge I think. My personal biggest challenge is the size of the mitre slots as I cant get any 3rd party accessories for it.
Great info thank you for sharing 👍
+1 to the mitre slot size. Im yet to find anything that fits after two years of ownership 😣
I used HDPE plastic for the miter slots. I had a piece with a thickness that fit snugly in the miter slots. This allowed me to make a saw sled that I really enjoy.
@@jaapvanklaveren6929 I noticed the top and the bottom of the slot has different width on mine which one did you use and what depth?
@@S4t4nk4 I used the top one. The conductive strip is 12mm wide and 8.2mm high. my saw sled has a bottom of 6mm thick plywood. I attached the guide strip with small nails. I hammered this through the plywood bottom into the plastic strip.
Thanks for the updated review. From what you have identified I think my Rage (thanks to your extremely useful fine tuning guides) is great value for money 👍👍
Thank you for watching 👍 yes I think Rage 5s does give good value for money, best on the current market I think
Think I will stick with my Rage 5s especially as I have converted it to a cabinet saw and have no dust issues any more.
@@anthonybillings7498 I have done the same and incorporated router table
I don't have that saw but another budget saw, a Lumberjack jog site. The fence is very similar and I found a way around it. I try to shim or tighten up the front clamp, then choose a way to adjust the fence, e.g. pushing lightly on front clamp then sliding it along to adjust it using just one spot on the front clamp. Then clamp it down and see how far out it is. Release it then adjust the fence on the rear clamp to take up that error. It might a few goes to get it right but it does work. As long as you push the front clamp in, then slide the fence along from the same spot every time then clamp, it should be a reliable way to work it. I might additionally double check with a ruler on important work or where the level of accuracy is critical. I have been really pleased on just how accurate and reliable it has been
Thank you for sharing 👍
Thanks for the review. This was my choice saw when shopping for a compact table saw. It´s very well made, I have the TS 254 M with the support table and side sled, pretty much the whole set-up for this Metabo. Extraction for this size table Is basically the same or worst for other tables In the "site" table saw category (job site). Worst Issue Ist the size (width) of the table rails which are smaller then the standard rail, so you have to 3d your fittings. What I did was buy a cheap cutting board made of nylon, cut strips the size of the rails and then trim to fitting. Works great and cheap! As for the fence, there's videos out there that show how to adjust both ends with the top screws. You also need to adjust the angle of the blade with a digital angle finder. Unscrew that little cover on the tilt guide to gain more angle If needed and retighten It when you the have the 90ª angle dialed In. I am very happy with this table, and the Dewalt also has some Issues so be happy with you´re Metabo. I also have the Metabo BAS 318 bandsaw, so yeah I am kind of a Metabo fan. Although my Evolution RS210 Is awesome for all kinds of cuts too! Good care and cheers!
I do have a video planned on how to tune up this saw. So yes most issues are fixable
@@CasualDIY I look forward to that, thank you.
I recently bought the Metabo TS254 and like you was very disappointed by the fence as I spent a long time looking for a saw that the had a fence that clamped at both ends. The outstanding features for me were the compactness for storage and the stable and built in stand. I had considered the Rage 5 but noticed on many RUclips videos that the stand appeared a little wobbly.
Coming back to the fence issue I have found the solution for me is to move the the fence slightly beyond the setting required and then use the little thumb wheel to align it on the correct dimension before clamping, so far this has worked every time.
Hmm the stand of Rage 5s has got some feet you can adjust to prevent any woble and the frame is very sturdy. Never had issues with Rage being wobbly. I have to try out your way of setting the fence on the Metabo.
I've had the Rage 5S for now 3 years and still happy with it. About dust extraction, I put off the dust pipe between blade cap and vacuum connector, plugged the blade cap and the vacuum connector to leave only the low vacuum connected. This has been a great improvement and I never see my trousers full of dust as you show ! If not yet paradise, it's quite better now.
Just my two cents… and thanks for that video full of honesty ! 😃
Two cents are always welcome on this channel 👍
I have the Hikoki version og this tablesaw, the to saw er in many ways alike, the Hikoki fence is okay, and it have the big stop button.
Thanks for the review, I've had my TS 254 for over 3 years now. Both the loose mitre and fence alignment are issues Ive had to minimize as well. There are methods that use the bolts atop the fence and a sheet of paper for the fence-blade parallel adjustment, all the vids I found were in German (even google translate couldn't give me the jist) it would be good if someone could do this in English. Honestly it's a good saw for that price but I don't do enough work to justify buying another.
I will try to go through some tuning up in the near future
Have the same issue with fence same model
I did try every solution to fix
Thank you fir sharing
I have had mine for about 18 months, the TS254M and I love it. I have 3D printed a stop flap and some mitre slot runners for my jigs. I agree about the fence although as I have said before I always use a square to align it anyway, just my way. Dust collection is fabulous from the back port but I don't have one on the blade guard and do experience some dust blow back from the blade. I would be interested in finding a blade guard with a dust port. I wear an apron and have a vacuum cleaner nearby for that 😅
But on the whole I am very pleased with mine, it works for me. Thank you for your review Tomasz as always it is interesting 👍
Thank you for sharing your experience 👍
Don't know if this helps, but I have a fabulous DW743 flip-over saw, with the same dust problem in saw table mode. I found a Woodford Woodworking Crown Guard which comes with a dust port. Fixed the issue. 30 quid.
Thanks for your review. I ordered this table. I let you know how it work about the fence. For my hobby, and price, it looks like a good saw.
Hope you enjoy it!
you could drill two holes in the part that goes down in the front of the sliding guide and thread them and put a couple of bolts in them and put Loctite on threads to make it permanent
Hmm it's an option 🤔
I just bought one before seeing your review. 😅 fingers crossed.
I have a range 5s for which I have built an overhead blade guard and dust extractor. Using this has reduced the forward dust fling to a small sprinkling. I also have a switchable valve at the back, which allows me to extract, from stopped cuts, from the back dust port. Between these two I have significantly reduced the dust output from the saw. Though I would not claim it's perfect.
Good solution 👌 got something similar as well
Im in such a doubt right now while looking forward acquiring my 1st table saw. This seems to have such a sturdy construction and build but that fence looks horrible. Im considering DWE 7492 as well.
The fence is a big let down unfortunately
Tomasz, thanks for the great review and tips like , I'll give that at try rather than the tape I have stuck on the side of the bar.
I've had my saw since 2020, I'm pleased with it generally as I can fold it away under my mitre station (DIY Montreal style), lots of power, easy adjustment of the riving knife as you point out.
My two main frustrations have been:
1) the mitre slot dimensions preventing the use of an aftermarket mitre gauge but if flipping round the plastic adjustment pieces in the mitre gauge bar works I might look at getting a a new gauge and swopping the bars.
I've also thought about buying the sliding crosscut carriage from Metabo (628900000) at approx £130 but I've not seen any reviews of this adaption.
2) keeping the fence parallel with the blade, but I can now try the tip of pulling the handle as you included in the video.
Like you, I like the metal insert and I'll have to try making a zero clearance insert plate this year, but I found some "FastCap Zero Clearance Tape" on Amazon that I'll have a go with in the meantime.
I'm also interested in the suggestions your viewers are adding on how to move the power switch and include a STOP paddle (thanks everyone).
Keep up the great work producing videos of your projects and tool reviews, all the best for Christmas and 2024.
I have a sliding carriage on my Rage 5S and I hardly use it to be honest. Yes I need a stop paddle as I find the current setup very frustrating. Thank you for your kind words. All the best, Happy Christmas
Was just looking up this v the evolution rage 5.
That is a very poor fence design. For mobile use I have the dewalt and that’s great. Keep up with the great input into your channel 👍
I have been using this saw for over 2 years and I brought it as my first ever table saw. I thought im having issues with the fence because im a beginner but it looks like it wasn't my fault.
At this point i believe its fair to assume that this fence is just badly designed.
Thank you for sharing 👍 seems the fence may be a wider issue
I think that the fence is not so badly designed, ok it's a bit tricky to fine tune but after that it works well and precisely !
this fence is similar to the metabo bandsaw fence I have, i stopped relying on it and just use straight edge and some squares, could use an upgrade to a bandsaw which allows after-market fences but you work with what you got :) unless i hit jackpot no way i am buying new tools :)
Fantastic review, Tomasz! Thanks a bunch! 😃
But yeah, for the dust extraction alone it's very interesting!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you for watching 👍
Very interesting review. FYI: That version of the saw is not sold in the USA. The model sold here, the Metabo HPT C10RJS, is a completely different saw. It addresses the two major complaints discussed in the video:
1. The off switch has an emergency stop flap. The switch is also located on the left front, rather than the right front, of the saw. You can easily turn the saw of with your knee in an emergency.
2. The fence is a rack and pinon design, so it stays parallel to the blade.
The miter gauge and blade guard are also different. I'm not sure if they're better, worse, or just different. The USA verison retains the outfeed support of the UK version. That's one of the best features of the Metabo HPT table saws.
Well it seems to be a solid upgrade 🤔
Great video review! One year later do you think its worth it? Its on amz uk for under £330 at the moment.
@RichardDowd it's a solid saw not had any issues apart from the ones I mentioned in the video
@@CasualDIY I'm a very casual DIYer, looking to get my first TS but dont have much cash to spare, seems like every cheap one has many saying problems with inaccuracy which defeats the objective of actually having a TS.
@RichardDowd I would get the new table saw from Evolution, seems very good at a decent price
Hi Thomas have you any ideas for support on the side for larger sheets.thank you
It does have the expandable wing to the right and that's about it. It's nice and sturdy. If you need more support then you will have to DIY something out.
If I understand correctly this particular model has been replaced by the TS 254 "M" model. A few of the bigger tool suppliers in the UK don't stock the older model anymore.
Hmm I wonder what is the difference between them 🤔
@@CasualDIY Actually I've looked further into this and am more confused!
The "M" seems to have been released at least 3 years ago but at least one difference seems to be that your machine The TS254 is 2000w whereas the TS254M model is only 1500w, so that is a significant difference in power.
@@kevocos seems like a downgrade to me 🤔
The M model is a smaller model, but they look very similar.
The Evolution zero blade insert is now metal and a brilliant design, works a treat and only about £20 ... :)
Finally a good improvement 👏
Thanks for letting us know about this 'upgrade', much appreciated, but another £20-£30 to replace something that should never passed QA in the first place!!
Apart from making your own insert, you can stick some steel strips to the underside of the original which will stiffen it up quite a bit 👍
Just purchased a Rage 5 direct from Evolution. They discounted to £304 and it currently included a metal table insert which included both a 90 and 45 degree insert. Currently following CasualDiy videos in making upgrades and have it now cutting nice and true.
@@michaelburrell6761 Hmmm that's interesting ... I'm tempted to email them and try to shame them into giving me a new metal insert for nothing 😁
Edit: Just sent an email, will let you know how I get on 👍
@@barry.w.christie😅
A great video. I've owned this saw for a very short time and glad it left, I have to be brutally honest here, I hated it. Starting up like an F16 in terms of noise. You are right about the power switch, it's the wrong specification and in the wrong place. Firstly it should be to the left of the machine as you work primarily to the left of the blade, secondly the switch should protrude further out and have a kick flap fitted, so it's the wrong specification for UK HSE requirements, how the heck did this get through. One thing to be aware of with the rear sliding fence is it can stiffen when sliding in or out, make sure the rods are clean and lubricated. The other thing that really got on my nerves was the direction of the blade angle, it's the wrong direction. If you're ripping with a bevel, the bevel goes in to the fence, not away from it, meaning you have to strip the rip fence, replace the fence plate the other side and lock it, this can cause the fence to be out of alignment.. I didn't notice blade nut slackening, but I did find dust management issues but with a powerful enough extractor it cleared up fine. I think this saw needs redesigning to be honest, it's a bad saw from these perspectives. Oh, by the way, the additional sliding rail unit, leave it alone, it is a nightmare to calibrate and set up, if you take the machine to sites and use the sliding rail unit, you're wasting time. If it was me, I'd redesign that saw and offer a better solution. or if I had the chance, I'd develop a table saw that was built like a site saw for portability, but had the features of a cabinet saw.
Great info thank you for sharing
Hi tomas do you still have the rage 5s how are you getting on with it, I really like your videos and appreciate what you do
Yes still have my Rage 5S and still works fine. My plan is to add it to my new workbench.
I’ve only got the rage5s and from many table saw reviews like your good self very knowledgeable I still think that pound for pound the rage5s offers more than many others yes it has issues but non that are insurmountable great vid Tomaz
My thoughts on Rage 5s are the same. All the best Phil
For about GBP450 you can get the DeWalt DWE7485 (a stand would be extra). If you are looking for a jobsite type saw I can recommend it. It's done everything I've thrown at it and the dust extraction (if you add the DeWalt Y-splitter hose) is pretty reasonable. If you use it with a crosscut sled then the dust extraction is about as good as the Metabo 🤣 Having had a couple of Evo saws I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole after switching to the DeWalt.
Thank you for sharing 😅👍
Got to agree about the DeWalt. Every time I look to upgrade it I read about other manufacturer's fence issues in reviews and think maybe I'll just stick with what I've got. I can't fathom why they don't all use a variation of the DeWalt rack and pinion.
@@Paulfarr1964 I think the upgrade path from something like the DeWalt would be to a "proper" table saw, rather than another jobsite saw. I can't see myself needing anything better than the DeWalt for the work I do. I am, once I get my workshop reconfigured, intending to build a trolley for it with a fold-down outfeed table. I have to work in a very small space.
Dzien dobry
Dzień dobry 👍
I've come to the conclusion that most saws are a complete and utter rip-off with regards price ... it's a motor with a blade attached which can move up/down and tilt ... it's not rocket science!!
The Rage 5S is a pretty good saw, only let down by some of the cheapness of the parts, another few quid spent on the parts and it'd have been perfect (for the price range) 👍
Another perfect example of rip-off prices are bandsaws ... look at the price difference as you go from 14" up to 18", a complete joke!!
And breathe 😁
Agree totally, for me personally the only table saw upgrade that would make sens is a panel saw or a cast iron top stationary saw.
😅 lern how tu use fance 😂 because it is ok. Sometimes you need to make adjustments and with metabo you can
It should be locking straight without learning a secret technique or making adjustments
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