One note here is to have a small strap (2 footer works great) with loops on each end to wrap around your mag rims or spokes or holes in the rim if they are big enough, this way you will always have a very strong location to hook a strap to without having to dig underneath the auto to find a location to attach a strap too to get your auto pulled out. Towers like myself have doing it this way for eons! Just a small tip.
Noticed your plates. People in Montana very nice. Got stuck once when I pulled off road to take picture of sign that said continental divide and sunk two feet of snow on side of road. Truck stopped right away got me out. Offered him a 20 dollar bill. He would not take it. Said its the way of the road. If u can help someone out in same situation do for them like I did for you. Three trucks stopped. All were willing to help. Love the state and people of Montana. Cool vid man thanks for your time
I just went to Montana for summer vacation. I agree. They are amazing people. Even the employees at walmart, every single one of them asked me if they could help me find something.
This man knows his stuff as he is an offroader like myself, Problem is that we see these types of vehicles all around us now as it has become a popular sport. So many younger folks buy one and then think they know what they are doing and trust me 90% of them do not! Seek professional help or someone you know and trust if you are stuck. Sometimes a free helping hand will end up costing you a lot more than if you called a pro. Very excellent video sir and I hope many folks will see it and learn from your wisdom. PS, Common sense in most people should come with a warning label attached! Be careful around them all.
As a professional tow operator, I disagree with your hook points. In your first frame, showing the shackle through the frame hook on the car, is wrong. That's designed for transport purposes ONLY. B. We use winch wire ropes with metal hooks daily. Used safely, they're perfectly fine. C. In your front hook up on the jeep, that's the tie rod. NEVER.... Ever.... Hook to that. A frame rail, attached recovery hook or the axle itself are the ONLY points to which to recover from
Futt Bucker you are correct frame, spring hanger never the Axle get a good pull and maybe the Axle comes out and the unit stays in the ditch how about the pro tow operator haha call your local triple a you get what you pay for
So how do you go about pulling out a 2018 and up Toyota Camry, US made version? I don’t see any place under there where you can attach anything in the rear or the front for that matter. The Japanese manufactured ones have your standard knock outs in the bumper but not the US made🤦🏻♂️
MOST passenger cars don't. so if you're out bogging in your pickup, yes, do your homework, but if you're in town and helping sally get her corolla off of a snow bank, you're going to some hook up to some part of her car not really intended for recovery. after seeing enough tow truck drivers SLOWLY winch a car out of the bottom of a ditch via a strap through their rim, i've made a few easy recoveries using a cars tire and never had an issue. sometimes it's the A arm but the key is not to get a 20' head start to yank them out.
@@nocoolname32 wheels that aren't compromised are generally the best to rig to, frame slots are used a lot but they simply aren't rated for recovery, nor are tow hooks or the little rings you will find on the back of some cars, and in accidents I've had nothing but the metal plates with slots cut in them on the front of some cars and I've also ripped them right out, almost no car has spots rated for recovery the wheels on the other hand are a pretty good bet.
At 7:55 the "safe connection" is a tie down point, used for shipping cars on trains, ships, and vehicle haulers. It is NOT intended for pulling a car out of a ditch. Early on he says "don't use anything metal" then he goes and puts a big metal shackle on a recovery rope with 30% more stretch than a recovery strap - so now he's saying "this is safe". And here's what happens: The tie down is spot welded to the unibody. You're stuck good and the big truck gets a running start, stretches the rope, rips the tie down off the car, and now the heavy metal shackle is a big missile on the end of a monster rubber band and is slung through the back of the head of the guy driving the truck. Instead take that recovery rope, crawl under the vehicle and wrap the rope around the axle or the lower A-arm of the suspension and loop it through itself. Then connect the other end to the recovery vehicle on an appropriate recovery point. "Slow and easy" was good advice though.
@@holdenthompson1235 Everything he said is right. There is no frame on these cars, they are unibody. The trailing arms or lower control arms are the strongest points to tie to. In front most cars have a hook that you can thread through the bumper but that's it.
ScoutSkills is correct. That is a dangerous location to connect the kinetic rope to. That rope has the ability to transmit 15000 pounds of force. I guarantee that loop will rip right off with that much force. Even though this is a unibody monocoque construction, there will be a more robust stringer welded to the sheet metal that a professional recovery crew would attach to. There is no way they would risk their insurance coverage by attaching to this shipment tie-down point. Unibody does not mean there is no frame. It just means the frame is a welded part of the body, rather than a separate structure that the body attaches to using fasteners.
Just FYI, a tie down point like that will rip off before you break that rope, shackle, so whether you use that or your cheap tow rope, when it breaks, metal will be flying. Not that you can't, or that I wouldn't, pull from there, but I would be VERY careful. Your suspension is considerably stronger than that sheet metal tie down point, but you can damage it, especially if you pull too hard or in the wrong place. The stick lock is actually a good idea, but it scares a lot of people. In that case, you can just used a choker hitch, but when hooking to straps together, it is safer than a heavy clevis/shackle. Also, that bar is fine, but make sure you find a way so that it can't pull in the middle, or it'll bend that bar in half. Same applies to rear axles on front wheel drive cars.
I have seen many tie down points still holding on vehicles involved in roro capsize salvage operations, they are strong than those of the likes of folks like you claiming they are not that strong. Still even some of the more tougher points for recovery or tie down as not much stronger and the weakest link is just that the link such as a shackle/clevis or hook or in many cases the rope or strap being overused.
@silverlion2378 because as it stretches, it can lock up and prevent removal afterwards. Unless you're doing overhead and repetitive lifts, backing 1/2 turn from fully locked is a standard practice for all offroad recoveries.
@@marioprzepiorapretty smart dude lol. I’m a tower crane operator and all my years of rigging loads we always back our shackles just a 1/4 turn or so to prevent this. Unless they are critical lifts or extremely heavy. Other than that if we’re just doing quick picks to throw around site we always just back it off a bit to take the shackle off.
Carr a old tire, tie in the middle of pickup or Winch around tree or steel fence post, anything, tighten rope or chain with tire, no wheels, just a tire that is off the wheel. Stretch tire to the maximum and watch your car become unstuck. That tire by trying to get back it's shape will ac pull you out. True and fantastic. Great deal better than just a tow rope.
*ALL cars have recovery points if they aren't loops or hook holds on the frame like your nissan then there are bolts in with the spare tire that you take out and usually have a little square on the front or back bumper that you pop out and screw the tow loop bolt into and that's what you use for like mercedes, bmw's, cadillacs and some others but there is a tow hook option for ALL vehicles and if you had to hook to the frame as long as it's hooked right it won't damage your alignment. I carry a 2" chain in my Escalade and i not only use it to bolt down cars on my car hauler but i also use it to pull people out with, it's a 30 foot long 2" LINK solid steel chain and i've pulled everything from a mini cooper to a semi truck with it and never had a problem. and my Escalade isn't a tow truck but i've got good All Terrain tires and they grip pretty well. In fact a couple weeks ago i had to pull out my 99 tahoe and my wife's 08 Grand Prix and pulled them both out with that same chain and another tow strap and had NO issues and neither car was damaged*
You're right about the metal hook tow strap. Under heavy weight they're like a rubber band. My brother drove his car into a ditch in Colorado. My step dad tried to pull him out with a strap and the tow point they used came off the car and the hook flew back and bashed in his rear door on his Toyota Landcruiser. It would have certainly gravely injured someone if they were in the way.
Notice the Montana License Plate . . . good 'ol boys know how to survive ! This works, I know because I pulled my daughter out of a ditch on Black Ice with a Ford E-150 going in reverse at idle speed, and regular summer tires ! The momentum you gain jerked her car completely out and back on the road ! The other two guys in their 4 wheel drive super duper jeeps and pickups looked like city slickers!!!
I would suggest that the tie down points on the frame that you recommend using for recover is one sure way to get someone hurt, or damage the car. Those points are ONLY used for transportation purposes, NEVER for recovery purposes. They are not designed for that. As well, never ever...ever hook to suspension or steering parts, they are not designed for that. You were absolutely correct about the load strap with the covered hooks, they will break or pull the hook straight and now you have a little steel missle coming back at the towing or towed vehicle. The best solution for ANY recovery is use "PROPER" recovery equipment and get the assistance of someone trained in recovery (if possible). I spent many years teaching recovery and doing recoveries of all different size and types of vehicles and your advice has good intentions but quite possibly disastrous outcomes. IF YOU DON'T KNOW FOR CERTAIN...ASK A PRO!!!
They were used for tie down yet they manage to survive the trip with the straps tightened often checked and meanwhile its left to bounce around a bit , not to mention the shock load from the swelling and swaying of the ship if the car was not placed in park. Seen video of salvage of Tricolor and such where many vehicles tied down that way were still tied down!? Yet the likes of experts like you and others who also mention the same garble, failed to know little of how tough they actually are. So long as they are still in good shape and fully welded they are fine for towing, its not going to endure more force than you think since a kinetic strap or rope puts a softer pull on said attachment than a stiffer tow line.
When you tighten your bow shackle / d link. If you back it off just a quarter turn before you use it you will find that then are far easier to undo afterwards
In the country we used kinetics by using a tow chain, an old tire, and a short length of chain so the pull on the chain would stretch the tire in the towline. It's exgremely powerful and won't rip someone's bumper off like with just. a chain.
A lot of cars now have removable tow hooks that are kept with the spare tire. They screw into the bumper under a little hatch you pop out with a knife or something. I have a Jeep, it has tow hooks coming out everywhere.
Useful advice for passenger car drivers. Thanks. Are there any options for drivers that got their cars stuck in a ditch without traction, and no help is or will be in sight for days? Any kinds of winches or "come-alongs" that will work with passenger cars for solo recovery? That would be incredible to keep in the trunk in addition to a suitable elastic tow strap like you showed.
should have mentioned to never pull w/ a hitch ball they will break and snap back. I recently stepped up to a class B RV is can weigh up top 9.5K LBs how heavey should the rope be rated for this new class b excellent video.
Newer cars have a hole that has a cover that you have to pop off and thread a tow anchor to that is usually found in the trunk in the vehicle. Every car has recovery points
If I Lived in a Snow Area, I would have a Thin car Tire RIM that would Bolt on to My Pulling Wheel and Wind the Rope or Nylon Sling on to it, depending on which direction that you need to go-- wind the Rope on the Rim and then Put Vehicle into the Correct Gear and this set-up will Automatically Pull your vehicle Out of the Ditch or Whatever--I have Used this Device and it Works every time.....
I've used snatch straps, tow straps, as well as log chains for many years. That tow strap you have there has some cheap ass hooks on it. Mine have the heavy duty hooks on them and the only issue I've had was the strap itself breaking. Even had a brand new never used strap break. As long as you know what you're doing you shouldn't have any troubles with what you've shown. Good video though. That trick with the stick was something I've never heard or thought of before.
Most new cars have a removable hook in the bumper. There are small square panels that pop out then you tread in the hook or ring that is with your jack kit.
Loved your tips on using straps w/o hooks, many folks are clueless about them trust me. Just a tip for a future video. The Best attachment point on autos, trucks etc is the autos rim or mag wheels, if it has a large enough opening to run strap through it. We use small 24'' inch straps for just this reason when removing autos from the ditch and this way you do not have to dig underneath the car to try to find a location to attach too. After pulling an auto out of the ditch always make sure the engine compartment has not filled with snow preventing the engine from cooling down which can and will do future damage! You might be surprised how much snow can find its way in there when an auto goe into the ditch. Look at any towing recovery equipment store for towing companies on special equipment for attaching to cars etc. Hope it helps out in the future. Good luck.
+Affordable Towing Thanks for your support and input. I never thought about the strap through the wheel for recovery. The reason I did this video is because I just couldn`t find much info anywhere as to where to hook up on passenger cars. I`m glad to see that some pros have chimed in here. I`m always open to be corrected and to learn from others. So thanks!
Last time I got stuck in my 4-wheel drive PU it was because I was hauling out a load of firewood and I ground my way down through several layers of snow and ice to ice-covered ground. Could see the grass and dirt through the clear ice. So I got my snow shovel, in the truck all the time once it snows, and shoveled down to ice-covered ground about 2 feet front and rear of all four tires, threw down some ashes which is also always in the truck and simply drove out. Didn't even spin the tires. No fuss and was out in about ten minutes. Probably cat litter would work if you don't happen to burn firewood. Have done the same with 2-wheel drive vehicles and front wheel drive cars generally have excellent traction if the tires aren't smooth. If I was in my good vehicle, my traveling 4 X 4 that is in excellent condition, no way would I want some yahoo to hook up a tow rope of any kind to that vehicle with some inexperienced yahoo at the wheel who's going to leave slack in the rope and tear my truck apart by punching the gas peddle. Thanks, but I'll use my shovel and ashes unless it just ain't gonna work. And I have AAA if I really need to have an expert tow it out to better ground.
Very informative and helpful video the only thing i would add is a cotter pin with your pin for the truck option, without the cotter pin the metal pin is free to slide around. Just a suggestion Great video though!
The pin he showed had a toggle safety and no hole for a cotter pin, not that they are really rated for such purpose to tie a strap into as it will bend so and likely become stuck in the tube
Also, instead of the stick, really bad idea, you would just choke one eye or end of the rope through the other eye, run it all the way through after you run it around your attachment point, that is. It's called a "choke"
I like the use of the recovery rope but am a little confused as to what size to purchase. I like the 3/4” as shown used with the hitch pin in the receiver but you talked about the larger size (1 1/4”?) you keep with your truck. I own a Dodge Ram 1500 . Why would I want one size over the other? Also, you haven’t talked about using a soft shackle, do you not feel this is a good piece of equipment to add to your bag? Thank you for your response.
Sure any portable winch that is 12volt or gas powered or a come-along will work, but of course you have to have an anchor point somewhere. If you`re in open country there very well may not be any place to hook to, but if you`re in the woods you maybe could hook to a tree if there`s any close enough or you have a very long rope. Portable power winches are available as a vast array of options from a www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-2953AT-12-Volt-Portable/dp/B000COTKDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1428373561&sr=8-2&keywords=portable+winch to a www.amazon.com/Portable-Winch-Gas-Powered-Capstan-Capacity/dp/B004HL21RS/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1428373644&sr=8-24&keywords=portable+winch Most of them would be minimal at best when it comes to recovering a seriously stuck car.
for winches where there is no where to anchor too, I use those green T-posts everyone uses to support small trees. works great and means there is nowhere you can not pull yourself out off if your stuck offroad.
a guy in my ATV club caries one of those cork scew anchor points for a dog chain.. it's amazing some of the stress I have seen him winch off that thing with.
Nice of you to make a video for inexperienced people. A few things: the first piece of rigging you had is called a synthetic web sling, looks to be 4" width (2 ply most likely). They come in nylon and polyester. On a straight pull it is good for a working load limit of 11,000 lbs, with a design factor of 5:1, it shouldn't theoretically break until 55,000 or so of pull. On a basket (so you run it through the shackle's bell and back to the pulling vehicle, so both eyes are connected to the truck, it's rated for 22,000 lbs working load limit. It's stretch (if nylon) is only 6% and the polyester has a stretch of 3%. The "loops" you referred to, on the end, actually called the "eyes". A little note, when you screw in a shackle pin, once fully turned in, turn the pin back out a quarter turn. If you've been pulling heavy things with a shackle, the pin will be very tight. You'll need a spud wrench (offset wrench) or something long, thin and strong to slide through the eye of the pin, to remove it. I was also curious as to why you believe that more stretch would be better when lifting or pulling with rigging? Just curious. It would seem to me that the less stretch, the more efficient all aspects of the pulling would be, as you would require all the more little bit of power to pull the stretch out of the rigging before it pulls the actual vehicle. P.s. I do like your jacket, wonder if I could find that up here in Alberta. Thanks again for doing the vid
Recovery straps are great but kinetic rope if made right will have more flex but still never put the strap aside, it is still more useful than you think.
In states with snow and ice... they often spread salt on the roads. That puny loop spot welded to the bottom of the vehicle will likely be compromised due to rust, and will probably fail, if the vehicle is any more than a year or two old. I honestly don't know the alternative solution. That is why I came here. So I guess I'll keep searching for the answer.
those tie down are usually as strong as the frame if fully welded and seen many salvage ops where said car were still tied down by said points. Spot welded ones are however weaker and more prone to corrosion erosion
ALWAYS put a tow hitch on your car/vans. atleast you'll have a rear tow/recovery point. hitc es are about $150. tyhe added advantage of a hitch bikerack mount or cargo basket mount comes in handy too
yep how do u get outta ditch without a tow truck? I guess u hope someone comes along with a truck with a hitch, then actually helps u out....or you wait til spring
I’m interested in setting up recovery of an F150 with a plow on. I have 5 heavy duty snatch blocks rated for 20,000 lbs each. I also have a roll of 1/2” climbing rope. I have 2 clevis pins or some call them Bow Lines. In addition, I have 2 flat synthetic tow lines. Is it possible to pull out my F150 with what I have and how would you setup these items up to pull the truck free? I think I need a winch to make it all work.
I would not think of attaching a rope to a control arm, I think I would go for a sub-frame :) and if the vehicle got solid axle (not half-shafts) I think that's an okay place also?
Question for anyone who can answer! Why use a stick, and not just loop the rope all the way through? Is there a reason for using a stick ? I feel like I would just loop the rope through. Does it cause a weak point in the rope or something?
Look u p video for Bubba Rope (R) recovery rope, you will how soft a pull it is compared to not so stretchy webbing straps which are still softer than trying to use a stiff tow rope/strap with wire hook which is unsafe as he mentions.
Amusing.... discussion about what to have in your vehicle for emergency need of being pulled out.... but miss including the full list... like having a shovel... as part of the action is digging out your car! O:-)
I think that I would try to use the Flip-Flop winch as showed on some youtube vids before I called a recovery truck out. Look at NorwegianBushcraft for a good demo.
I actually was looking for this kind of info. He did a good job of the explaining the equipment needed. I’m not sure the car attachment point is correct. The ones by the muffler are more for tying the care down not pulling it out? The only thing I would add is soft shackles rather than the metal D rings he uses. Soft shackles are stronger and safer.
+C White you're saying you feel sorry for my customers, yet you're the one who doesn't know proper points to pull a car from? Is that 16 years in recovery from drugs, and fell off the wagon, cause you must be high.
I don't see how the rope or snatch'em strap is going to get me out just laying on the ground. Do I hook it up to a winch or my engine fan or my wheel that has power to it? Confused.
On your car a 8' to 10' strap with a 2 point connection is better. Those points on your car are too weak especially for one. S hooks or T hooks are better for frame or heavy parts of suspension. 2 points are always better to pull from. Also a ratchet come along is good if you have an anchor point like a tree or post. A little long winded. Not bad. Suspension area close to frame us usually best for s hooks.
anything less than 15 foot is a recipe for the towee of running the chance of crashing into the tower, thus why you want 20 or 30 foot long recovery lines s they offer a longer safety space
Any strap with a metal hook should be made illegal as they hurt & even kill people every year! This guy is not lying people, listen to him, please.. Throw them away or have the hooks cut off any strap you may own. Do not give them away to someone else to use.
Use your cars rims, wheels if they have enough room between the spokes to attach any strap too as it is the best location to pull from. It will not bend the rim as long as you are not going crazy pulling on it from the side. Hope this helps folks. Never use chains on rims or they will be damaged forever.
at 14:00 you lost me why would u do it like that man put the other end of the rope through the fing loop and the bar u were talking about looks to be bolted directly to your shackles for the leaf springs bad idea bro fail
If all you have available is a single rope/strap you can attach it the same way on both ends. Running it through the loop only leaves the tag end useless. I thought it was a pretty cool idea.
Everyone uses fancy hooks and what not I just use basic wire with loops at ether sides I just fold them making so that both loop end are at one car and middle part is for the other car. Side with loops I put on hook of a jeep and other middle side I put threw recovery hole and put wrench in that hole... I've pulled car out of a deep ditch with golf 3 so if I can you can no need for fancy bs
Good video, brother… BUT as a former import and exotic SCCA track racer, running everything from Mazda FD RX7 to Porsche, those “points” on all 4 corners, they are NOT meant for recovery, those are the strap points the car manufacturers use to tie down the vehicle on the transport tractor trailers so the cars don’t bounce around while being delivered to the dealerships. They will only take a few HUNDRED pounds of bouncing on long hauls, ultimately they will break and cause the same amount of damage as a steel shackle flying through a recovery vehicle or a windshield. The only true method of recovering a small vehicle like a car, is the frame.
The tow strap is good in a pinch although not preferred, I carry one in my JL Rubicon and Gladiator Rubicon but I removed both hooks but kept the loops to attach a soft shackle instead.
This man is using good ole common sense but sadly most people never think this far ahead let alone realise what common sense is! Most cars are very difficult to find an attachment point, especially when its buried deep in the snow, Trust me as I do this for a living. If you or the person helping you doesn't use the correct attachment point you can do some very serious damage to your auto which most people trying to help you will never tell you about as they don't want to held responsible for doing the damage!
ANY strap with hooks at the end are biggest danger to people and their autos. DO NOT use them as they can, will hurt a person very badly. I have seen folks who have been killed due to their use and most are outlawed at off road rallies now for just that reason. Listen to this guy as he seems to have his shit together.
This video is recommanding the recovery strap attach to a single towing pin as oppose to proper shackle? Big or small strap, proper shackle should be priortize over the hitch tow pin. 99% those tow pin will be fine......But that 1% when you're stuck real good, the pin might not necessary break. But it'll bend. Good luck getting that bend pin stuck in the hitch out without any power tool. But what do I know? Maybe you have superman strengh and can put thousnad of pound of torque on a tiny spot of the pin, and bend it back. Also, recovery and tow strap are actually different. I know professtional tow truck guys, and youtube expert might tell you they are the same...... Tow strap is kinda like chains, for towing that is. Tow strap have metal hook on the end of strap. Which is bad for recovery, unless you like high speed flying projectile coming at you if things go wrong. Recovery strap (like in this video) have no metal hook, just a loop, you have to use shackle (like in this video) to feed it through the loop. I don't need to make no video to tell you, the secret to a proper recovery (without a winch) is--- -Recovery strap -shackle -proper recovery point on the rig, ideall attach to frame or some sort of subframe if unibody. --weight on the recovery strap ( rug, towel, jacket, rubber mat, anything with a little big of weight), if the strap failed. It'll go to the ground, instead of launching at you. --no bystander within 10'-20'........ideally behind a cover(like a big tree) or something. The only person that should be there are the drivers of the 2 vehicles. **Keep it mind, recovery strap wont kill you, but injury can still happen if the strap failed.
Fill in the blanks your fill in the blank... always use a hook when the opportunity is there,but have sense enough to tie it back in on itself,and then back onto the to the strap it'sself as well.. in other words knot the hook around the strap,or chain,and then again with a separate tie like a quick go ahead, and tie the hook back in on the strap its....this is a safety,and everyone should do this no matter what you're pulling a vehicle with,and whether you are pulling it out of a ditch or down the road. .a hook is 10 times better than a knot in a strap if you know what you're doing however and don't take it personal,but idiots shouldn't be trying to pull anything except for that card with the tow truck number on it out of their wallet,and of course if they opt rather to save a little cash, and go to tying knots and hooking straps up without experience, well then their greed can naturally get them hurt.. although I've turned wrenches all my life I pretty much believe almost anybody can pull a vehicle tie a knot, or hook up a chain you just got to have some common sense when you go about yanking a vehicle out of the ditch. Remember a chain can break a strap can break he'll anything can break so always secure all the ends,and make sure that nothing can Break Free anywhere Ricochet and take you out, but if a person has any doubt in their own skills call a tow truck, and don't attempt it.I don't know how some people can even claim to know what they're doing, fill in the blanks .....
It is nice to have areas on a vehicle designated to tow from. I don't like where you are hooked to, above your hook is a plastic faisha very proned to cracking. Your muffler is also in a dangerous spot.
Yet I seen RORO with the cars tied down still holding on by those very points! You and all others who say this same thing do not get how nice a properly welded tie down point is, just use it with caution like pulling the frame as well as any other recovery or tie down point, none are completely fail safe.
One note here is to have a small strap (2 footer works great) with loops on each end to wrap around your mag rims or spokes or holes in the rim if they are big enough, this way you will always have a very strong location to hook a strap to without having to dig underneath the auto to find a location to attach a strap too to get your auto pulled out. Towers like myself have doing it this way for eons! Just a small tip.
Noticed your plates. People in Montana very nice. Got stuck once when I pulled off road to take picture of sign that said continental divide and sunk two feet of snow on side of road. Truck stopped right away got me out. Offered him a 20 dollar bill. He would not take it. Said its the way of the road. If u can help someone out in same situation do for them like I did for you. Three trucks stopped. All were willing to help. Love the state and people of Montana. Cool vid man thanks for your time
I just went to Montana for summer vacation. I agree. They are amazing people. Even the employees at walmart, every single one of them asked me if they could help me find something.
This man knows his stuff as he is an offroader like myself, Problem is that we see these types of vehicles all around us now as it has become a popular sport. So many younger folks buy one and then think they know what they are doing and trust me 90% of them do not! Seek professional help or someone you know and trust if you are stuck. Sometimes a free helping hand will end up costing you a lot more than if you called a pro. Very excellent video sir and I hope many folks will see it and learn from your wisdom. PS, Common sense in most people should come with a warning label attached! Be careful around them all.
As a professional tow operator, I disagree with your hook points. In your first frame, showing the shackle through the frame hook on the car, is wrong. That's designed for transport purposes ONLY.
B. We use winch wire ropes with metal hooks daily. Used safely, they're perfectly fine.
C. In your front hook up on the jeep, that's the tie rod. NEVER.... Ever.... Hook to that. A frame rail, attached recovery hook or the axle itself are the ONLY points to which to recover from
He made it extremely clear that you should not hook the the tie rod and that he was just using it to show how the rope is arranged...
agree,those transport tie points are not very sturdy for a single point haul out
Futt Bucker you are correct frame, spring hanger never the Axle get a good pull and maybe the Axle comes out and the unit stays in the ditch how about the pro tow operator haha call your local triple a you get what you pay for
So how do you go about pulling out a 2018 and up Toyota Camry, US made version? I don’t see any place under there where you can attach anything in the rear or the front for that matter. The Japanese manufactured ones have your standard knock outs in the bumper but not the US made🤦🏻♂️
Thank you! I've been told what you mention here and this video caught me off guard. Much appreciate your comment.
make sure your vehicle has tow points BEFORE you need them.
MOST passenger cars don't. so if you're out bogging in your pickup, yes, do your homework, but if you're in town and helping sally get her corolla off of a snow bank, you're going to some hook up to some part of her car not really intended for recovery. after seeing enough tow truck drivers SLOWLY winch a car out of the bottom of a ditch via a strap through their rim, i've made a few easy recoveries using a cars tire and never had an issue. sometimes it's the A arm but the key is not to get a 20' head start to yank them out.
@@nocoolname32 wheels that aren't compromised are generally the best to rig to, frame slots are used a lot but they simply aren't rated for recovery, nor are tow hooks or the little rings you will find on the back of some cars, and in accidents I've had nothing but the metal plates with slots cut in them on the front of some cars and I've also ripped them right out, almost no car has spots rated for recovery the wheels on the other hand are a pretty good bet.
@@towtruckaj thanks for sharing that info!
At 7:55 the "safe connection" is a tie down point, used for shipping cars on trains, ships, and vehicle haulers. It is NOT intended for pulling a car out of a ditch. Early on he says "don't use anything metal" then he goes and puts a big metal shackle on a recovery rope with 30% more stretch than a recovery strap - so now he's saying "this is safe". And here's what happens: The tie down is spot welded to the unibody. You're stuck good and the big truck gets a running start, stretches the rope, rips the tie down off the car, and now the heavy metal shackle is a big missile on the end of a monster rubber band and is slung through the back of the head of the guy driving the truck.
Instead take that recovery rope, crawl under the vehicle and wrap the rope around the axle or the lower A-arm of the suspension and loop it through itself. Then connect the other end to the recovery vehicle on an appropriate recovery point.
"Slow and easy" was good advice though.
Frame connections only. Your right and wrong. Dont tie to and axle. Or anything else sides a solid frame. Mr. Know it wrong
@@holdenthompson1235 Everything he said is right. There is no frame on these cars, they are unibody. The trailing arms or lower control arms are the strongest points to tie to. In front most cars have a hook that you can thread through the bumper but that's it.
No, where he is tying off at is for tie downs for hauling. Not yanking
ScoutSkills is correct. That is a dangerous location to connect the kinetic rope to. That rope has the ability to transmit 15000 pounds of force. I guarantee that loop will rip right off with that much force.
Even though this is a unibody monocoque construction, there will be a more robust stringer welded to the sheet metal that a professional recovery crew would attach to. There is no way they would risk their insurance coverage by attaching to this shipment tie-down point.
Unibody does not mean there is no frame. It just means the frame is a welded part of the body, rather than a separate structure that the body attaches to using fasteners.
Just FYI, a tie down point like that will rip off before you break that rope, shackle, so whether you use that or your cheap tow rope, when it breaks, metal will be flying. Not that you can't, or that I wouldn't, pull from there, but I would be VERY careful.
Your suspension is considerably stronger than that sheet metal tie down point, but you can damage it, especially if you pull too hard or in the wrong place.
The stick lock is actually a good idea, but it scares a lot of people. In that case, you can just used a choker hitch, but when hooking to straps together, it is safer than a heavy clevis/shackle.
Also, that bar is fine, but make sure you find a way so that it can't pull in the middle, or it'll bend that bar in half. Same applies to rear axles on front wheel drive cars.
I have seen many tie down points still holding on vehicles involved in roro capsize salvage operations, they are strong than those of the likes of folks like you claiming they are not that strong. Still even some of the more tougher points for recovery or tie down as not much stronger and the weakest link is just that the link such as a shackle/clevis or hook or in many cases the rope or strap being overused.
If you're going to use a shackle, do NOT tighten the bolt. Make it snug, then back out 1/2 turn.
Why?
@silverlion2378 because as it stretches, it can lock up and prevent removal afterwards.
Unless you're doing overhead and repetitive lifts, backing 1/2 turn from fully locked is a standard practice for all offroad recoveries.
@@marioprzepiorapretty smart dude lol. I’m a tower crane operator and all my years of rigging loads we always back our shackles just a 1/4 turn or so to prevent this. Unless they are critical lifts or extremely heavy. Other than that if we’re just doing quick picks to throw around site we always just back it off a bit to take the shackle off.
Carr a old tire, tie in the middle of pickup or Winch around tree or steel fence post, anything, tighten rope or chain with tire, no wheels, just a tire that is off the wheel. Stretch tire to the maximum and watch your car become unstuck. That tire by trying to get back it's shape will ac pull you out. True and fantastic. Great deal better than just a tow rope.
*ALL cars have recovery points if they aren't loops or hook holds on the frame like your nissan then there are bolts in with the spare tire that you take out and usually have a little square on the front or back bumper that you pop out and screw the tow loop bolt into and that's what you use for like mercedes, bmw's, cadillacs and some others but there is a tow hook option for ALL vehicles and if you had to hook to the frame as long as it's hooked right it won't damage your alignment. I carry a 2" chain in my Escalade and i not only use it to bolt down cars on my car hauler but i also use it to pull people out with, it's a 30 foot long 2" LINK solid steel chain and i've pulled everything from a mini cooper to a semi truck with it and never had a problem. and my Escalade isn't a tow truck but i've got good All Terrain tires and they grip pretty well. In fact a couple weeks ago i had to pull out my 99 tahoe and my wife's 08 Grand Prix and pulled them both out with that same chain and another tow strap and had NO issues and neither car was damaged*
All terrain, yet snow and ice are not terrain, that is why we have snow and ice rating on those type of special tires
You're right about the metal hook tow strap. Under heavy weight they're like a rubber band. My brother drove his car into a ditch in Colorado. My step dad tried to pull him out with a strap and the tow point they used came off the car and the hook flew back and bashed in his rear door on his Toyota Landcruiser. It would have certainly gravely injured someone if they were in the way.
Notice the Montana License Plate . . . good 'ol boys know how to survive ! This works, I know because I pulled my daughter out of a ditch on Black Ice with a Ford E-150 going in reverse at idle speed, and regular summer tires ! The momentum you gain jerked her car completely out and back on the road ! The other two guys in their 4 wheel drive super duper jeeps and pickups looked like city slickers!!!
I would suggest that the tie down points on the frame that you recommend using for recover is one sure way to get someone hurt, or damage the car. Those points are ONLY used for transportation purposes, NEVER for recovery purposes. They are not designed for that. As well, never ever...ever hook to suspension or steering parts, they are not designed for that.
You were absolutely correct about the load strap with the covered hooks, they will break or pull the hook straight and now you have a little steel missle coming back at the towing or towed vehicle. The best solution for ANY recovery is use "PROPER" recovery equipment and get the assistance of someone trained in recovery (if possible).
I spent many years teaching recovery and doing recoveries of all different size and types of vehicles and your advice has good intentions but quite possibly disastrous outcomes. IF YOU DON'T KNOW FOR CERTAIN...ASK A PRO!!!
They were used for tie down yet they manage to survive the trip with the straps tightened often checked and meanwhile its left to bounce around a bit , not to mention the shock load from the swelling and swaying of the ship if the car was not placed in park. Seen video of salvage of Tricolor and such where many vehicles tied down that way were still tied down!? Yet the likes of experts like you and others who also mention the same garble, failed to know little of how tough they actually are. So long as they are still in good shape and fully welded they are fine for towing, its not going to endure more force than you think since a kinetic strap or rope puts a softer pull on said attachment than a stiffer tow line.
When you tighten your bow shackle / d link. If you back it off just a quarter turn before you use it you will find that then are far easier to undo afterwards
Fine video. Longer than needed but certainly not uniformed like the jerks below seem to indicate. Good tips. Thanks for taking the time to post.
All newer vehicles have a bux screw-in connection that is a little doorway on front and back for the exact purpose of pulling you out of ditch.
In the country we used kinetics by using a tow chain, an old tire, and a short length of chain so the pull on the chain would stretch the tire in the towline. It's exgremely powerful and won't rip someone's bumper off like with just. a chain.
A lot of cars now have removable tow hooks that are kept with the spare tire. They screw into the bumper under a little hatch you pop out with a knife or something. I have a Jeep, it has tow hooks coming out everywhere.
Useful advice for passenger car drivers. Thanks.
Are there any options for drivers that got their cars stuck in a ditch without traction, and no help is or will be in sight for days?
Any kinds of winches or "come-alongs" that will work with passenger cars for solo recovery?
That would be incredible to keep in the trunk in addition to a suitable elastic tow strap like you showed.
should have mentioned to never pull w/ a hitch ball they will break and snap back. I recently stepped up to a class B RV is can weigh up top 9.5K LBs how heavey should the rope be rated for this new class b excellent video.
Neat idea with the stick. I guess I am never too old to learn something new. Thank !
watched the whole thing. Still don't know how to get out of a ditch without a tow truck.
yes i still dot know either a time waster
Use common sense! Ops. . sorry I forgot!
Click Bait
not all cars have this most have no spots for the average guy to find
Hes referring to being pulled out by a passer-by or friend without waiting for an actual tow truck.
Newer cars have a hole that has a cover that you have to pop off and thread a tow anchor to that is usually found in the trunk in the vehicle. Every car has recovery points
Shackles are used in construction and rigging. Clevis's are used for towing. But they're essentially the same.
Dang I must have missed it! I could not find one on a sentra so I pulled it out by it's rear wheel lol.
If I Lived in a Snow Area, I would have a Thin car Tire RIM that would Bolt on to My Pulling Wheel and Wind the Rope or Nylon Sling on to it, depending on which direction that you need to go-- wind the Rope on the Rim and then Put Vehicle into the Correct Gear and this set-up will Automatically Pull your vehicle Out of the Ditch or Whatever--I have Used this Device and it Works every time.....
I've used snatch straps, tow straps, as well as log chains for many years. That tow strap you have there has some cheap ass hooks on it. Mine have the heavy duty hooks on them and the only issue I've had was the strap itself breaking. Even had a brand new never used strap break. As long as you know what you're doing you shouldn't have any troubles with what you've shown. Good video though. That trick with the stick was something I've never heard or thought of before.
Most new cars have a removable hook in the bumper. There are small square panels that pop out then you tread in the hook or ring that is with your jack kit.
Loved your tips on using straps w/o hooks, many folks are clueless about them trust me. Just a tip for a future video. The Best attachment point on autos, trucks etc is the autos rim or mag wheels, if it has a large enough opening to run strap through it. We use small 24'' inch straps for just this reason when removing autos from the ditch and this way you do not have to dig underneath the car to try to find a location to attach too. After pulling an auto out of the ditch always make sure the engine compartment has not filled with snow preventing the engine from cooling down which can and will do future damage! You might be surprised how much snow can find its way in there when an auto goe into the ditch. Look at any towing recovery equipment store for towing companies on special equipment for attaching to cars etc. Hope it helps out in the future. Good luck.
+Affordable Towing Thanks for your support and input. I never thought about the strap through the wheel for recovery. The reason I did this video is because I just couldn`t find much info anywhere as to where to hook up on passenger cars. I`m glad to see that some pros have chimed in here. I`m always open to be corrected and to learn from others. So thanks!
Best way to destroy your car is hook to the rim.
Last time I got stuck in my 4-wheel drive PU it was because I was hauling out a load of firewood and I ground my way down through several layers of snow and ice to ice-covered ground. Could see the grass and dirt through the clear ice. So I got my snow shovel, in the truck all the time once it snows, and shoveled down to ice-covered ground about 2 feet front and rear of all four tires, threw down some ashes which is also always in the truck and simply drove out. Didn't even spin the tires. No fuss and was out in about ten minutes. Probably cat litter would work if you don't happen to burn firewood. Have done the same with 2-wheel drive vehicles and front wheel drive cars generally have excellent traction if the tires aren't smooth.
If I was in my good vehicle, my traveling 4 X 4 that is in excellent condition, no way would I want some yahoo to hook up a tow rope of any kind to that vehicle with some inexperienced yahoo at the wheel who's going to leave slack in the rope and tear my truck apart by punching the gas peddle. Thanks, but I'll use my shovel and ashes unless it just ain't gonna work.
And I have AAA if I really need to have an expert tow it out to better ground.
Great info thanks for sharing ,stuff does happen most of the haters don’t even know that their spare tire is flat LoL
Oh yeah, well, It' takes up less room when it's flat.
Thanks for adding to the collective knowledge.
Very informative and helpful video the only thing i would add is a cotter pin with your pin for the truck option, without the cotter pin the metal pin is free to slide around. Just a suggestion Great video though!
The pin he showed had a toggle safety and no hole for a cotter pin, not that they are really rated for such purpose to tie a strap into as it will bend so and likely become stuck in the tube
Also, instead of the stick, really bad idea, you would just choke one eye or end of the rope through the other eye, run it all the way through after you run it around your attachment point, that is. It's called a "choke"
I like the use of the recovery rope but am a little confused as to what size to purchase. I like the 3/4” as shown used with the hitch pin in the receiver but you talked about the larger size (1 1/4”?) you keep with your truck. I own a Dodge Ram 1500 . Why would I want one size over the other? Also, you haven’t talked about using a soft shackle, do you not feel this is a good piece of equipment to add to your bag? Thank you for your response.
Check out John Cadogan's channel. He's an engineer and explains why and how various items, including soft shackles, should or should not be used.
Sure any portable winch that is 12volt or gas powered or a come-along will work, but of course you have to have an anchor point somewhere. If you`re in open country there very well may not be any place to hook to, but if you`re in the woods you maybe could hook to a tree if there`s any close enough or you have a very long rope. Portable power winches are available as a vast array of options from a www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-2953AT-12-Volt-Portable/dp/B000COTKDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1428373561&sr=8-2&keywords=portable+winch to a www.amazon.com/Portable-Winch-Gas-Powered-Capstan-Capacity/dp/B004HL21RS/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1428373644&sr=8-24&keywords=portable+winch Most of them would be minimal at best when it comes to recovering a seriously stuck car.
for winches where there is no where to anchor too, I use those green T-posts everyone uses to support small trees. works great and means there is nowhere you can not pull yourself out off if your stuck offroad.
a guy in my ATV club caries one of those cork scew anchor points for a dog chain.. it's amazing some of the stress I have seen him winch off that thing with.
JackG79 jjjjjjj
Nice of you to make a video for inexperienced people. A few things: the first piece of rigging you had is called a synthetic web sling, looks to be 4" width (2 ply most likely). They come in nylon and polyester. On a straight pull it is good for a working load limit of 11,000 lbs, with a design factor of 5:1, it shouldn't theoretically break until 55,000 or so of pull. On a basket (so you run it through the shackle's bell and back to the pulling vehicle, so both eyes are connected to the truck, it's rated for 22,000 lbs working load limit. It's stretch (if nylon) is only 6% and the polyester has a stretch of 3%. The "loops" you referred to, on the end, actually called the "eyes". A little note, when you screw in a shackle pin, once fully turned in, turn the pin back out a quarter turn. If you've been pulling heavy things with a shackle, the pin will be very tight. You'll need a spud wrench (offset wrench) or something long, thin and strong to slide through the eye of the pin, to remove it. I was also curious as to why you believe that more stretch would be better when lifting or pulling with rigging? Just curious. It would seem to me that the less stretch, the more efficient all aspects of the pulling would be, as you would require all the more little bit of power to pull the stretch out of the rigging before it pulls the actual vehicle. P.s. I do like your jacket, wonder if I could find that up here in Alberta. Thanks again for doing the vid
Thank you Brother! Great tips & advice... will really help me!!!
you can always feed the rope through the end with the bar pull it all the way through all the way back to the towing vehicle then hook it
Thanks for the video. Very informational. Just order a kinetic rope
Recovery straps are great but kinetic rope if made right will have more flex but still never put the strap aside, it is still more useful than you think.
In states with snow and ice... they often spread salt on the roads. That puny loop spot welded to the bottom of the vehicle will likely be compromised due to rust, and will probably fail, if the vehicle is any more than a year or two old. I honestly don't know the alternative solution. That is why I came here. So I guess I'll keep searching for the answer.
those tie down are usually as strong as the frame if fully welded and seen many salvage ops where said car were still tied down by said points. Spot welded ones are however weaker and more prone to corrosion erosion
ALWAYS put a tow hitch on your car/vans. atleast you'll have a rear tow/recovery point. hitc es are about $150. tyhe added advantage of a hitch bikerack mount or cargo basket mount comes in handy too
Great video!
yep how do u get outta ditch without a tow truck? I guess u hope someone comes along with a truck with a hitch, then actually helps u out....or you wait til spring
I’m interested in setting up recovery of an F150 with a plow on. I have 5 heavy duty snatch blocks rated for 20,000 lbs each. I also have a roll of 1/2” climbing rope. I have 2 clevis pins or some call them Bow Lines. In addition, I have 2 flat synthetic tow lines. Is it possible to pull out my F150 with what I have and how would you setup these items up to pull the truck free? I think I need a winch to make it all work.
I would not think of attaching a rope to a control arm, I think I would go for a sub-frame :) and if the vehicle got solid axle (not half-shafts) I think that's an okay place also?
thanks for the great video. it gave me an additional idea of how to hook up my strap. thank you for taking the time to make this video...lol
Question for anyone who can answer! Why use a stick, and not just loop the rope all the way through? Is there a reason for using a stick ? I feel like I would just loop the rope through. Does it cause a weak point in the rope or something?
Solid video
Very informative
Thanks for the video. Learned something today.
kinetic ropes are used by the army for pulling out light armed veh ( use this on your car and you will need a new one)
Look u p video for Bubba Rope (R) recovery rope, you will how soft a pull it is compared to not so stretchy webbing straps which are still softer than trying to use a stiff tow rope/strap with wire hook which is unsafe as he mentions.
Excellent! Thanks for posting.
Great video. Where can I buy that white snake rope?
Amusing.... discussion about what to have in your vehicle for emergency need of being pulled out.... but miss including the full list... like having a shovel... as part of the action is digging out your car! O:-)
That was 15mins of my life I'll never get back. I saw "without a tow truck" and thought "without a tow truck"!
Great vid. Thanks for the tips
I think that I would try to use the Flip-Flop winch as showed on some youtube vids before I called a recovery truck out. Look at NorwegianBushcraft for a good demo.
Did the tow truck driver not know any of this? Did the tow truck operator connect incorrectly? How does knowing this improve your situation?
Great video. EVERYBODY should have a tow strap
Thanks for the great advice!
Good video thanks dood 👍🏼👍🏼
Very good information, thanks. :-)
Well done...
I actually was looking for this kind of info. He did a good job of the explaining the equipment needed. I’m not sure the car attachment point is correct. The ones by the muffler are more for tying the care down not pulling it out? The only thing I would add is soft shackles rather than the metal D rings he uses. Soft shackles are stronger and safer.
Those are anchor points used for shipping and not suitable for pulling. You're gonna do some damage if you try to pull on them.
+joshcrosson I agree. Beware.
completely untrue.
+C White Oh is that right? I've been a tow truck driver for 6 year and I do recoveries all the time, what qualifications do you have?
+joshcrosson 16 years of recovery. I feel sorry for your customers.
+C White you're saying you feel sorry for my customers, yet you're the one who doesn't know proper points to pull a car from? Is that 16 years in recovery from drugs, and fell off the wagon, cause you must be high.
I don't see how the rope or snatch'em strap is going to get me out just laying on the ground. Do I hook it up to a winch or my engine fan or my wheel that has power to it? Confused.
Good tips!
On your car a 8' to 10' strap with a 2 point connection is better. Those points on your car are too weak especially for one. S hooks or T hooks are better for frame or heavy parts of suspension. 2 points are always better to pull from. Also a ratchet come along is good if you have an anchor point like a tree or post. A little long winded. Not bad. Suspension area close to frame us usually best for s hooks.
anything less than 15 foot is a recipe for the towee of running the chance of crashing into the tower, thus why you want 20 or 30 foot long recovery lines s they offer a longer safety space
Any strap with a metal hook should be made illegal as they hurt & even kill people every year! This guy is not lying people, listen to him, please.. Throw them away or have the hooks cut off any strap you may own. Do not give them away to someone else to use.
now 12 minutes, and we havent even started yet, what a load of rubbush so far.
Use your cars rims, wheels if they have enough room between the spokes to attach any strap too as it is the best location to pull from. It will not bend the rim as long as you are not going crazy pulling on it from the side. Hope this helps folks. Never use chains on rims or they will be damaged forever.
When pulling on wheels/mags should you pull from the front or side??? I feel like pulling from the front could knock the alignment out of place.
Lmfao dude
Great job with rescue and towing instructions. Thanks for posting form Ga.
at 14:00 you lost me why would u do it like that man put the other end of the rope through the fing loop and the bar u were talking about looks to be bolted directly to your shackles for the leaf springs bad idea bro fail
If all you have available is a single rope/strap you can attach it the same way on both ends. Running it through the loop only leaves the tag end useless. I thought it was a pretty cool idea.
I watched a guy use a sharp hatchet on one end of the nylon tow strap as a tool to secure one of the ends once. What could go wrong?
Everyone uses fancy hooks and what not I just use basic wire with loops at ether sides I just fold them making so that both loop end are at one car and middle part is for the other car. Side with loops I put on hook of a jeep and other middle side I put threw recovery hole and put wrench in that hole... I've pulled car out of a deep ditch with golf 3 so if I can you can no need for fancy bs
The tie down points on cars, are just that "Tie Down" for transporting, not recovery points...
👍🏼👍🏻 thanks for your sharing 👍🏻👍🏼
I like your word choice...
Good video, brother… BUT as a former import and exotic SCCA track racer, running everything from Mazda FD RX7 to Porsche, those “points” on all 4 corners, they are NOT meant for recovery, those are the strap points the car manufacturers use to tie down the vehicle on the transport tractor trailers so the cars don’t bounce around while being delivered to the dealerships. They will only take a few HUNDRED pounds of bouncing on long hauls, ultimately they will break and cause the same amount of damage as a steel shackle flying through a recovery vehicle or a windshield. The only true method of recovering a small vehicle like a car, is the frame.
The tow strap is good in a pinch although not preferred, I carry one in my JL Rubicon and Gladiator Rubicon but I removed both hooks but kept the loops to attach a soft shackle instead.
This man is using good ole common sense but sadly most people never think this far ahead let alone realise what common sense is! Most cars are very difficult to find an attachment point, especially when its buried deep in the snow, Trust me as I do this for a living. If you or the person helping you doesn't use the correct attachment point you can do some very serious damage to your auto which most people trying to help you will never tell you about as they don't want to held responsible for doing the damage!
This is a very helpful Video. Everyone should carry a Recovery Rope! Thank You for sharing your Ideas with all of us!
NICE I LIKE YOUR IDEA THAT WORKS PERFECT THUMBS UP
ANY strap with hooks at the end are biggest danger to people and their autos. DO NOT use them as they can, will hurt a person very badly. I have seen folks who have been killed due to their use and most are outlawed at off road rallies now for just that reason. Listen to this guy as he seems to have his shit together.
Affordable Towing lets use a stick instead
Thanks for teaching this ole gal how to do this. As a new deputy I will have to do this daily.
Great info...i have tow straps wouldn't know what to do with them but break something ha
Too long winded. People are quicker to catch on than you may think. I honestly almost fell asleep at one point.
This video is recommanding the recovery strap attach to a single towing pin as oppose to proper shackle?
Big or small strap, proper shackle should be priortize over the hitch tow pin.
99% those tow pin will be fine......But that 1% when you're stuck real good, the pin might not necessary break. But it'll bend. Good luck getting that bend pin stuck in the hitch out without any power tool.
But what do I know? Maybe you have superman strengh and can put thousnad of pound of torque on a tiny spot of the pin, and bend it back.
Also, recovery and tow strap are actually different.
I know professtional tow truck guys, and youtube expert might tell you they are the same......
Tow strap is kinda like chains, for towing that is. Tow strap have metal hook on the end of strap. Which is bad for recovery, unless you like high speed flying projectile coming at you if things go wrong.
Recovery strap (like in this video) have no metal hook, just a loop, you have to use shackle (like in this video) to feed it through the loop.
I don't need to make no video to tell you, the secret to a proper recovery (without a winch) is---
-Recovery strap
-shackle
-proper recovery point on the rig, ideall attach to frame or some sort of subframe if unibody.
--weight on the recovery strap ( rug, towel, jacket, rubber mat, anything with a little big of weight), if the strap failed. It'll go to the ground, instead of launching at you.
--no bystander within 10'-20'........ideally behind a cover(like a big tree) or something. The only person that should be there are the drivers of the 2 vehicles.
**Keep it mind, recovery strap wont kill you, but injury can still happen if the strap failed.
Fill in the blanks your fill in the blank... always use a hook when the opportunity is there,but have sense enough to tie it back in on itself,and then back onto the to the strap it'sself as well.. in other words knot the hook around the strap,or chain,and then again with a separate tie like a quick go ahead, and tie the hook back in on the strap its....this is a safety,and everyone should do this no matter what you're pulling a vehicle with,and whether you are pulling it out of a ditch or down the road. .a hook is 10 times better than a knot in a strap if you know what you're doing however and don't take it personal,but idiots shouldn't be trying to pull anything except for that card with the tow truck number on it out of their wallet,and of course if they opt rather to save a little cash, and go to tying knots and hooking straps up without experience, well then their greed can naturally get them hurt.. although I've turned wrenches all my life I pretty much believe almost anybody can pull a vehicle tie a knot, or hook up a chain you just got to have some common sense when you go about yanking a vehicle out of the ditch. Remember a chain can break a strap can break he'll anything can break so always secure all the ends,and make sure that nothing can Break Free anywhere Ricochet and take you out, but if a person has any doubt in their own skills call a tow truck, and don't attempt it.I don't know how some people can even claim to know what they're doing, fill in the blanks .....
It is nice to have areas on a vehicle designated to tow from. I don't like where you are hooked to, above your hook is a plastic faisha very proned to cracking. Your muffler is also in a dangerous spot.
Tells you not to use a hook but it's all right to use a heavier d-ring
9 minutes into this and still nothing.
Fuck me, the Gestapo couldn't get information from this guy.
you can always tie off on the frame of the vehicle
What are you talking about, Sanders county never gets snow. Lol
Should have named this video let's inventory the trunk of my car lol
how to get out without a tow truck. Get a nice man in a pickup to pull you. uhhh ok
Instead of the stick trick, Feed the rope back through the eye. Much stronger and safer
I got a brilliant idea... Don't get stuck!
Your hook up point is not designed for recovery.They are tie downs for shipping.Their strength is only when pulled down
Yet I seen RORO with the cars tied down still holding on by those very points! You and all others who say this same thing do not get how nice a properly welded tie down point is, just use it with caution like pulling the frame as well as any other recovery or tie down point, none are completely fail safe.