Well it's better cable being long than short as you can always easily compensate for any mistakes with cable lengths. My previous electrician cut through the entire joist to fit a down light and it was only hanging by the thread. He made the hole at the wrong place and did a quick job of covering up his mistake by causing more damage by drilling right through joist aswell. Not in one place but 2 different places.
Had a sparks install my kitchen, what a pigs ear he made of it. Even ran the 4.8 kWh oven from the ring. Took much bitchin to get the idiot out to install a spur from the consumer unit. The joys of an induction stove and a double oven, hopefully the idiot now knows better, but I should not be the one instructing him as I am the customer. They your Apprentice with this one "whats a d.p.d.t switch"...
Is the super rod camera better than the ferret? Nice to see a fellow sparks who doesn’t run a 6mm swa out for a few sockets & lights in a outbuilding! 13amp switched spur is more then enough most the time. 👌🏻
@@Cjrelectrical but what would be the best? I suppose if you have a spare in the main CU and easy access to run the cable, you would probably pick that option.
It depends on expected load as well as convenience of cable run from CU. If it's a long way, and a small load, no point doing it. If it needs a large load, it's necessary but very expensive. A small outdoor room might draw 1.5 kW heating and a few hundred watts for TV, lighting, computer etc. Fine on 13A.
Should the carbon monoxide alarms be 😊on a separate circuit so the tenant knows how to react for carbon vrs smoke. If all alarms sound you will not know if it's smoke or carbon
Correct..Carbon monoxide and smoke detectors are not allowed to be interlinked, they can be on the same circuit, but must alarm/sound separately. Chris said that he was fitting a combined detector, so it may respond differently to heat/Carbon monoxide.
The standard Aico Fire alarm pattern is a continuous rapid pulsing sound type, while the distinctive Carbon Monoxide alarm pattern is a repeating cycle of 3 slower sound pulses followed by a pause. On the Ei3028, the LED display will indicate if Fire or CO is detected. The flash rate of the red LED indicator is dependent on the alarm event type, and in the case of CO, on the level detected. Table B shows how the CO sensor reacts to different levels of CO gas and exposure time.
Another fantastic video, have been watching your content for quite a while now, very educational and I enjoy seeing all the latest stuff being installed, I have one little tip for you, was watching you cut the plasterboard with the pad saw and I cringed at you thumping the end of the saw, I only cringed as it looks painful, try twisting the saw back and forth with little pressure, I think your hands will thank you for this one day. Cheers
Multi-tool for cutting plasterboard walls all day every day. Pad saw is slow and nearly always damages the board as the teeth on the blade are very large
Why are you sleeving the grey conductor black, when you already had a black conductor to use? What I mean is, why didn't you chose to use thd grey as cpc and then you wouldn't have had to sleeve both conductors?
Couldn't help but notice . You didn't show wriggling and twisting about when pushing the FCU. back to the wall . and all the cussing that takes place coz of the bloody stiff wires 😮
Ionisation Smoke Alarms are largely obsolete, having been banned in Germany, France and some other EU member states for a few years because they contain radioactive material. You should only be fitting Optical Smoke Alarms. Heat Detectors in Kitchen areas.
EU precautionary principle nonsense. They react differently to different types of fires, therefore have their uses, and you can't always predict what type of fire you're going to have so can't always predict what type of sensor you're going to need and it isn't always optical or heat detector. There's zero risk from the radiation unless you literally take them apart - don't be like David Hahn. Actually, if anything you really want dual sensor smoke alarms with both optical _and_ ionising detectors, though most would say one is good enough - but dual is the "perfect" solution because it responds quickly to both the sorts of fires that trigger them. I dunno, I have a heat detector in my office because I vape, but still - as a generic install option dual sensor is best and properly solves the problem of correctly selecting (or more accurately predicting) which you need. Ionisation detectors are far from obsolete - modern optical detectors are good, but they're not perfect which is why dual sensor detectors are a thing made by the best smoke detector manufacturers.
Хобби
Well it's better cable being long than short as you can always easily compensate for any mistakes with cable lengths. My previous electrician cut through the entire joist to fit a down light and it was only hanging by the thread. He made the hole at the wrong place and did a quick job of covering up his mistake by causing more damage by drilling right through joist aswell. Not in one place but 2 different places.
You make me laugh with the safe isolation, could have gotten Pablo out too to pull the main fuse. Just in case.
I use the heat deflector attachment with a heat gun it prevents cooking the installation infrastructure and shrinks it much quicker, too.
Nice to see you working in a newer house. Always thanks for the good vids.
Consumer unit fed off a spur. Funny guy😅
Good to see you back again!
Another tip would be to bend back the top and bottom lugs in one gang metal boxes, all they do is snag and damage the cable.
I think I did buddy?
Great job
Nice jobs guys 😎🇨🇮
Shouldn't all accessories be at least 350mm from corner of wall or is that just a myth ?
Had a sparks install my kitchen, what a pigs ear he made of it. Even ran the 4.8 kWh oven from the ring. Took much bitchin to get the idiot out to install a spur from the consumer unit. The joys of an induction stove and a double oven, hopefully the idiot now knows better, but I should not be the one instructing him as I am the customer. They your Apprentice with this one "whats a d.p.d.t switch"...
Is the super rod camera better than the ferret?
Nice to see a fellow sparks who doesn’t run a 6mm swa out for a few sockets & lights in a outbuilding! 13amp switched spur is more then enough most the time. 👌🏻
Yep, just no need for the DB that he fitted at the end of it ….
@@JamesEdwards860 It's to prevent nuisance tripping in the house, quite reasonable to put a DB in IMHO
@@mikeenglish6734no guarantee that it will trip at the remote db before the main house.
So you will always spare from a socket to run a summer house with CU. or you usually run a main cable from the main CU, give a 32A fuse for more load?
Both
@@Cjrelectrical but what would be the best? I suppose if you have a spare in the main CU and easy access to run the cable, you would probably pick that option.
It depends on expected load as well as convenience of cable run from CU. If it's a long way, and a small load, no point doing it. If it needs a large load, it's necessary but very expensive. A small outdoor room might draw 1.5 kW heating and a few hundred watts for TV, lighting, computer etc. Fine on 13A.
Longest driver bit “in the world”
Yeah can do from the van
Should the carbon monoxide alarms be 😊on a separate circuit so the tenant knows how to react for carbon vrs smoke. If all alarms sound you will not know if it's smoke or carbon
Correct..Carbon monoxide and smoke detectors are not allowed to be interlinked, they can be on the same circuit, but must alarm/sound separately. Chris said that he was fitting a combined detector, so it may respond differently to heat/Carbon monoxide.
The standard Aico Fire alarm pattern is a continuous rapid pulsing sound type, while the distinctive Carbon Monoxide alarm pattern is a repeating cycle of 3 slower sound pulses followed by a pause. On the Ei3028, the LED display will indicate if Fire or CO is detected. The flash rate of the red LED indicator is dependent on the alarm event type, and in the case of CO, on the level detected. Table B shows how the CO sensor reacts to different levels of CO gas and exposure time.
@@Cjrelectrical thanks for the info
Another fantastic video, have been watching your content for quite a while now, very educational and I enjoy seeing all the latest stuff being installed, I have one little tip for you, was watching you cut the plasterboard with the pad saw and I cringed at you thumping the end of the saw, I only cringed as it looks painful, try twisting the saw back and forth with little pressure, I think your hands will thank you for this one day. Cheers
13A fuse at one end and 16A mcb at the other? What does the mcb protect if the fcu fuse is lower rating?👍
16A mcb will trip before a 13A fuse will blow.
Bugger all...... I would fit a fcu in the shed to supply the lighting. No need for the CU.
@@christopherhulse8385 - how? Even at x3? That's 48A. The moon is made of cheese by the way...
Multi-tool for cutting plasterboard walls all day every day. Pad saw is slow and nearly always damages the board as the teeth on the blade are very large
Why are you sleeving the grey conductor black, when you already had a black conductor to use? What I mean is, why didn't you chose to use thd grey as cpc and then you wouldn't have had to sleeve both conductors?
Brown and blue black is a 3 phase conductor.
It just looked black on the camera, it was blue.
Couldn't help but notice . You didn't show wriggling and twisting about when pushing the FCU. back to the wall . and all the cussing that takes place coz of the bloody stiff wires 😮
14:10. I thought linking CO and smoke alarms wasn’t permitted
Nope. Regs generally say that they don’t need to be linked (but do not prevent it).
@@AdrianColes We do aico CO/heat alarms in kitchens all the time? Linked. Whats he on about.
You shouldn't keep banging things with the palm of your hand
Yeah candidate for carpel tunnel operation
Stupid question - how do you bend the plastic conduit? Heat it up with heat gun and bend it?
you put a spring inside to the place you want to bend and you bend it there
You grab your t-shirt and give it a vigorous rubbing first ✊, then use a bending spring inside the tube.
Ionisation Smoke Alarms are largely obsolete, having been banned in Germany, France and some other EU member states for a few years because they contain radioactive material. You should only be fitting Optical Smoke Alarms. Heat Detectors in Kitchen areas.
EU precautionary principle nonsense. They react differently to different types of fires, therefore have their uses, and you can't always predict what type of fire you're going to have so can't always predict what type of sensor you're going to need and it isn't always optical or heat detector. There's zero risk from the radiation unless you literally take them apart - don't be like David Hahn. Actually, if anything you really want dual sensor smoke alarms with both optical _and_ ionising detectors, though most would say one is good enough - but dual is the "perfect" solution because it responds quickly to both the sorts of fires that trigger them. I dunno, I have a heat detector in my office because I vape, but still - as a generic install option dual sensor is best and properly solves the problem of correctly selecting (or more accurately predicting) which you need. Ionisation detectors are far from obsolete - modern optical detectors are good, but they're not perfect which is why dual sensor detectors are a thing made by the best smoke detector manufacturers.
Hmmm, the ionisation from a smoke detector consists of alpha particles which are stopped by a thin sheet of paper.