Black Diamond Magnetron Carabiner Break test - SlackSnap
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- Опубликовано: 24 янв 2025
- Peter Hoburg donated RockLock magnetron carabiners to see if they broke higher than the similar RockLock Screw Gates… they did. See why!
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Thank you @HowNOTtoHIGHLINE ! I'm glad my hunch was proven correct! Even if the results don't actually mean anything ;)
I own 6 of the Magnetrons. I've been very pleased with them. This instills more reassurance in my purchase of overpriced carabiners.
Glad to see I didn’t totally waste my money on these. I use them for my personal anchors and repels. Keep up the great works guys
Y’all should put the website link on the metal border wall behind where it snaps
RIP Magnetrons... You will be missed ),:
I actually have both of these. Have had the magnetron for two or three years now have only needed to clean once. Love it. The new screw gate one is very smooth
been waiting for this video :)
I love the magnetron! easy to open and always locked
Thanks Ryan! I love this channel
Glad you like them!
The magnetron is my main sport carabiner, so glad to see this!
Oh man I really miss these things, I like the mechanism so much better than the twisting spring on other autolockers. I wish I had bought the magnetron gridlock variant. Oh well.
When you mentioned magnets, the first thing I thought of was the crushed rock (gravel) in my driveway that is always sticking to the magnets on my trouble lights. Would those gates still lock if there was a little sand sticking to the magnets?
its not just more contact but the gate is beefier therefore wont flex and slip off as quick i think. also a random note, the magnatron is made in salt lake still the others are made elsewhere. thanks for all your work guys
Would love to see quad anchors being tested with 7mm accessory cord and 240cm dyneema.
very very very soon. i have more episodes done than wednesdays and saturdays :)
@@HowNOT2 Alas... I only have one like to give. Can't wait!
Just discovered this channel!
These biners are nice if they don't get dirty with sand, etc. Was climbing in the desert couple years ago and couldn't undo my pas.
Wow!
@@HowNOT2 ya, I was clipped into my anchor and not the bolts so I guess that's good. Would have had to cut the lanyard if I did tho....but I didn't have a knife....that would have been quite funny and crappy at the same time
@@HowNOT2 and I love all the testing and climbing content you have on your channel. Thank you for sharing all this awesome knowledge!!!
Really good to know that my normal black diamond rock lock screw gates are rated above the mbs. Just a little extra assurance (even though I will never even come close to that amount of force)
At 1:29 did anyone get fascinated with what he has on his back wall. Then notice at bottom left hand corner of the screen and see a long black sex looking thing, there hanging with everything else🤣🤣🤣
I was looking for exaclty this comment XD
I recently bought three of these as well as three triple-locking biners and have found the magnetron to be SO much easier to operate one-handed. The larger size in general (as well as an extra 1/4" or so in the gate opening) makes them even easier to use. The problem some users will have with them is there is a gap under the release that it moves down into when you press to release, and if dirt or bits of rock etc get into there you won't be able to depress that side of the lock. You might be able to just tap it to get the debris out, but if it's ferrous (attracted by a magnet) and doesn't want to shake out, you might be stuck! I was able to get mine for $23/pc, but they generally go for more like $28. Worth it for the additional convenience IMO. Thanks for testing them, I too was wondering if their ratings were honest, given the larger size and novel mechanism. Usually larger biners of the same material will test lower, but in this case it seems they are actually better. Thanks Peter for the donations, that must have been a good $100 in hardware you sent in for destructive testing!
You could maybe cover this test bed with some transparent plastic hatch or something.. probably find odd pieces of metal everywhere in this room by now.
Cool videos, love them!
That would really lower camera quality. We just duck haha
It’s interesting too see your gear being tested :) I have a BD magnetron that I use for belaying mostly. I have only used it indoors, and I always have it in the back of my mind that the gate is not always accepted as a good locking beiner. (for the complications with magnets)
Man, I wish these were still sold. I know they aren't completely foolproof, but the one simplified one handed opening would be a nice to have.
One of my favorite lockers and I've got most kinds. Great for the alpine (gloves).
You should break some double gates from Grivel. Those used to be rated for 30kN. Supposedly having two gates makes up for a lot of that extra strength. Also they are virtually impossible to be opened by mistake. Only takes a bit to get used to them. Open the outside gate and slide the other one.
That's a great idea!
Hi guys, I think you can try to "break test" some knots like prusik, machard with some kind of rope material, as nylon or dynema... Just for save some money
I'm down for cheaper tests, but breaking shiny stuff adds fun value!
@@HowNOT2 could break/slip test a Micro Traction then, see when they slip and how they work after being taken to whatever their failure mode is. I was suprised that they're half as expensive from a lot of big UK shops than the typical US shop price.
@@piman3072 yeah noticed how expensive climbing gear is in the states even US made stuff, as can understand european stuff being more expensive over there but when getting BD gear would have expected it to be a little cheaper.
The magnetic locks on BD biners are cool but you really have to check the magnets. It's not so much they get coated with "grime" as you say, but it's that they attract ferrous materials from the dirt and rocks at the crag. I quit using my Magnetron because of this at my local crag. Did not have any events where it failed to lock up but a few episodes where I checked the magnet and it was full of particles, kinda hard to unstick them.
I primarily use the magnetrons for things like my Purcell Prusik/PAS where I want to be able to clip and be locked into something as quickly as possible. I still check that the gate locked, but I like the idea of being locked on as soon as I clip things like that.
I'm curious about Grivel's twin gate carabiners, does anyone have any experience with them?
KAP I’ve used one for belaying with a GriGri and they’re awful for that purpose. The gates are wider than normal and hardly fit through the gri. The twin gates are great for top rope stuff of when you are not going to be seeing the piece of gear while using it. They are probably the most unlikely to open of all karabiner types IMO. How the gates affect strength, no idea. Would love to see!
I use a solid-wire-gate version with my Revo, this one is almost perfect for that purpose; hope the wire-lock, which is more intutive, will have rotation-retainer versions too.
@@Lunzicle DMM Ceros is my favorite carabiner for the GriGri by far
Send some in!
Buck Crockett is love to, sending from Europe is EXPENSIVE! I’ll DM him and sort out a Donation for it with some friends here. I know they would be keen to know too.
You might have already done this but testing these cross loaded would be interesting too.
Hi, do you know, why BD does not make all Magnetrons anymore? I want to buy another carabiners, but i cannot in Europe.
Would love to see a video testing deadman anchors in soil as highline anchors. Obviously loads of variables and hard to standardise but would would be interesting to see the difference depth makes when burying an achor of the same surface area each time and the strength of different pull directions
Those poor biners! Lol nice to see them tested tho 🙌🏻🤘🏻
mangatrons are the most badass biners. love them!!!!
I Just enjoy you as a host Mr Ryan.
Specific hatred of magnetrons due to them being used on a top rope anchor in Red Rock, and having a nearby group allow me to climb on their gear if I could put the rope back up. Didn’t bother equipping even an extra draw or a personal cause I had just set down my stuff upon arriving to Black Corridor, and when I arrived at the anchor struggled for a solid five minutes figuring out how to clip myself in to the carabiners while on the rock.
Ended up using my mouth. A little wiser, a little better prepared, but not a fan of those specifically for such a ridiculous circumstance. Still not a fan of folks using autlock carabiners on rope side, and always leave a draw at an anchor if I don’t clean the bolts.
You should consider reaching out to AvE...he would be able to give more insights into how the metal is actually failing at the structural level.
I think everyone should collaborate with AvE.
Or a real structural engineer.
AvE has the charisma.
Thank you you guys are the best I just bought one and then though I would have a look for a break test and booom it’s here
I wonder if you can use a clasp to winch a 4x4
They look like awesome carabiners, the only issue i see is if you were to be climbing in area's with lots if magnetic rock, like the pilbara Wa, most of the rock is hematite ores, lots of magnetic rock, you will be better off either the old style locking or Wire gates.
Are there carabiners made from different material than steel and aluminium... for example titanium? I bealive that i heard about titanium carabiners. I'm very curious that titanium carabiners will bend or crack.
I'm curious to know what the force was as the carbiner starts to deform.
These magnetotrons are discontinued now for some reason. I was going to check em out maybe buy one but now I can't give them $30 for a carabiner if I want to.
Was the maglock discontinued?
I couldn’t find the Amazon links to buy
I have 5 of those and I love them. Thanks for the video !
How do you use them?
Игорь Сомов tree climbing and indoor and outdoor rock climbing
Ever thought about break testing the top selling “climbing rated” ropes/ carabiners from say big box stores, Amazon, and eBay?
Maybe add something about how many of you or Bob it would hold in comparison to the NM.
What is the brand of carabiner he uses to pull with?
Venmo'd you a few quid. Now go buy yourself a six pack--You've earned it!
These are absolutely great videos, I have watched more than I can even count. Just as FYI: I think you might be using the term 'in theory' incorrectly. A theory is an explanation of some (typically physical) phenomenon which has been confirmed by repeatedly testing from multiple sources. A hypothesis is a proposition that has yet to be proven to be an accurate description of a phenomenon. In at least some instances you are using 'in theory' when it would be better to say 'the hypothesis is...' or 'it is proposed that...' Also I second all the comments about breaking the Grivel double gates, would make for a great addition to your experiments.
If i say hypothesis, i'll sound smarter. Whether or not it applies to what i'm talking about i'll use it! :)
Can you add more affiliate links? I'm buying some gear and would love to support you. Personally I need auto lockers and screw gates but it would be great to be able to buy all gear you've tested and support you in the process
Maybe just add a master list to your web site?
What do you do for a living when your not doing this?
Please can you guys do beal twingate
Does anyone know where one can get them these days?
have y'all looked into collab with SmarterEveryDay?
Can you try to undo one of the knots from the press? :D
Would be interesting to see auto locks like DMM rhino or ultra o, uses a different locking system.
Thanks for doing this.
Magnetron in Dutch means microwave (the machine that warms food)
Magnetron in English is a kind of microwave emitter vacuum tube, that is indeed used in every microwave oven.
How can I use these magnetron carabiners? Is it give the same safety as original screw?
Could I use is on top rope system, or any other limits?
Use them the same as the screwgate version. They just lock differently.
Have you tested any Camp Photons or Dyons Yet?
I've got a Panasonic magnetron I use to make popcorn.
thank you for the content!! boutta purchase some juno
Thanks! It really helps right now since we are a new company!
I’d like to to try a set up where the forces are applied at a faster speed to make it more realistic to falling. See what the max force is with that. But other than that great video.
Looking for the universe to send me an engineer that will help me get an high hz, S beam dyno to attach to a labjack to attach to a laptop reliably and ideally without cables. Once the universe provides someone with more than just a paragraph explaining it, but will actually help put it together, then I will build a drop tower immediately!
HowNOTtoHIGHLINE I do engineering at uni but don’t see that helping😂 plus I’m in Scotland
@@HowNOT2 where are you based? If this is still the plan.
what are your thoughts on the Petzl Rollclip Triact-Lock Pulley Carabiner
probably just fine. if anything it keeps the force on the spine side
You should get a half inch plexiglass lid for the slacksnap and put a camera inside
I love how this is in the laundry room XD
I like how the Steel carabiner, wich looks simulare size, didnt evan move a mm
I might suggest affixing a sheet of acrylic over the center part of top of your test setup, to cut down on time spent looking for pieces lol
please more tutorials!
I have a lot coming out soon. I will try to mix them with break tests evenly
@@HowNOT2 Thank you!
Sooner or later you will break some glass on that washer or dryer
Figure out how to test different size copperheads!
SlackSnap but benefit from a blast shield lol
So cool!!!
4:18 uhmmm MBS on the meter stated 28.45Kn you stated 24Kn
Prairie Climber I think he was referring to the listed closed gate strength... which is 24 kN.
@@user-zz8ln3uh5x I realized that was a possibility after he busted the next carabiner
@Caedmon Swanson reading too quickly ya, then after he busted the next one I think he may have been referring to the closed gate strength. both are posible
Just shows best policy is to proof-read before posting
"MBS was 24kn" .... and you can see it actually broke at 28.... so it was better
Ya podías doblarlo al castellano Monster!😇😇😇
Ohh... these shiny babies ... destroyed 💔
Sorry...
better slowmo camera.
He’s like your own chewbacca
Commenting for the algorithm
Nice video but I don't get the point. These forces are pointless as your body cant withstand half of it. You'll be crushed in your harness regardless. Static forces like this are not realistic in climbing - dynamic forces are. Sadly, non of the tests ever test dynamic forces. A dynamic test would be really cool!
can i have a grigri because i don't have money ?
focus focus focus :)
✊🏻🤘🏻🤙🏻👍🏻🤟🏼
Hit the like button gumbies
Maybe consider enclosing the test rig, like with polycarbonate or perforated steel plates, increasing safety for you and your washing machine 🤔
Also eases the cleanup 😅
But where is the fun in that??? Plus camera shot would be hindered. I'll just stand in kitchen!
Coment for algobots
why do you have an*l bead toy hanging on your right !? c.mon mate
4:18 Ummmm.... reading numbers is not your strong suit?
The 24 he mentions is the MBS which is what the carabiner can handle theoretically
Of course it's science, just not Academia
It's weird that it calls itself magnetron and yet has nothing at all do with magnetrons. It's like calling an analog tool "the microchip" just because it sounds cool and is green
4:22 ... bro 28 not 24
"MBS was 24kn" .... and you can see it was 28.... so it was better
You guys beg for money way too much, maybe find a dayjob???
More like, "How not to focus a camera"