How to Build a Shed - How To Install Exterior LP Siding Panels Part 2 - Video 12 of 15
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- Our 8x10 and 10x12 shed plans for the shed built in these videos can be found here: countrylifepro...
Save 33% on our plans right now with our Winter Buy Now Build Later discount! Enter Code BNBL10 during checkout.
In this video Henry teaches you how to install LP Smart Panels (or similar siding panels made from plywood or OSB). Everything you need to know is included in our detailed instructions - some of the main parts covered in this siding panel install tutorial are:
- How to nails and glue siding panels
- What type of nails to use on siding panels (when using glue)
- How to extend the life of siding panels
Need Inspiration? Checkout sheds built by our viewers using our videos and/or our plans at countrylifepro...
View 15 all of our Shed Building videos on our RUclips Channel: / countrylifemedia
Our Shed Plans for this shed are available here: countrylifeproj...
We have more projects coming up this year, don't miss them: Subscribe to the Country Life Projects channel here: www.youtube.com...
#shed #gardenshed #diy #framing #carpentrytips #carpentry #woodworking #sheds #trusses
Shed Design & Plans Copyright Countrylifeprojects.com - All Rights Reserved
The amount of experience in this video! Wow! Fantastic job, thank you so much for sharing!
Osb sheating is recommended for the LP 3/8 primed panels and a housewrap for moisture barrier. It gets the panel to sit on a very flat surface and nails wont pull through. Also, a 6" clearance from the bottom of the panel to gravel/dirt is needed to keep moisture out.
Makes for a better shed. Nice video.
Various features (Waterproof, traffic proof, high traffic, 4/6/12/22 mil, Click-Lock, etc) vinyl flooring comes in a wide variety of colors/textures/sizes. As impressive as that is, it becomes bewildering. Search engines don't do well. But, really broadens the choices for a unique shed.
Yup, paint the panels while they are on the ground and you can put them on sawhorses, even if you have to come back and re-touch the paint, you will be glad you pre-painted them.
wonderful
Hi Henry, One huge advantage that I see to doing the roof at this point would be that with the side walls still open I can build a temporary scaffold attached to the studs on each side to finish off the roof. That's my plan for May when the frost goes out.
This was very informative thank you wish I had seen this b4 I redid my garage siding would have helped husband and I but garage looks brand new planing on redoing house next as I hate our faded out mobile home vynel siding
Nice trim detail for the head of the door, have not seen that before....it causes the stand out from 100 others the same size for that detail alone. I did my eaves similar as well as gluing the sheathing to the studs due to no substrate sheathing behind it. Looks very nice!
Went to look at your videos then your about page..........what happened to your ambitions of more videos.....give up on the idea?
Hi Earl. Nope, just been so busy over the last few years to buy property out in the boonies... this spring will be the start of many more - now that we have a new property and many projects to build on it. In the mean time, I have tried to keep on top of comments here so as to let people know we are still around.
That detail I learned when I worked in Amsterdam for a few years. It is the old style drip cap of days gone by - but still works good. It was often used on the bottom of doors too when they open out (on old doors way back when).
Excellent video series. I plan on using a lot of your tips when building my shed. Question for you. My HOA is going to require the shed to be sided with the same material as the house which means I’ll probably have to use some type of plywood or OSB, and then wrap it before putting the siding on. What type of and what size/thickness of plywood or OSB would you use?
If you're building a shed taller than 8' what is the best way to take care of the joint between the upper and lower panels?
If I was building walls higher than 8' I would not finish the exterior in the same way. I would sheath the exterior first, then house wrap and then the exterior finish (panels or siding etc). If you are building higher than 8' I assume you are building a larger shed as well - if the joint will be exposed to the weather use Z-Flashing. Although we did not use it on the front, that joint does not get a lot of exposure and is covered with 1x4 trim and heavily caulked... if doing higher walls, the use of 1x4 trim like the front probably won't fit the overall design so go with the Z-Flashing.
how have the LP smart panels held up to water splashing up from ground/running down face? I've seen a similar material wick/expand and ultimately rot from the ground up from splashing/face impact of water/rain. If I remember, GP had issues with their siding that was supposed to just need paint and it disintegrated over time.
SpockMcoy Issmart The LP Smart Panels are not perfect for very humid and wet areas but they will stand up if protected properly. They are meant to be a inexpensive way to finish a shed exterior. There are better materials but also more money. We picked the LP Panels for ease of application and cost savings.
I did my shed with 15 gauge nail gun
I have really enjoyed watching these videos. I hope to build a 16x20 shop for doing my woodworking. I make Adirondack Chairs and Bird Houses, Would these videos go along with building the larger building. If not can you tell me what I might need to change.
Hi Stephen... Overall you can use the videos for a larger building. However, at 16' wide I would use engineered trusses (they are not too expensive). For the floor, you may wish to consider a concrete slab/footings, or 2x8 joists with support on both exterior side walls and in the center - full length (unless you use a gravel base and make sure there is support under the joists throughout. I would also use 1/2" or 7/16" sheathing under the LP Smart Panels for additional strength, then house wrap or building paper and then the LP Smart Panels (you need the extra strength for a building this size). If you plan to use gutters, you will need to change the ends of the rafters to match the angle of the ridge - if no gutters, the shed design for fascia finish will be fine. Lastly, if this is to be a workshop I would think you would want to insulate it... if so, make sure you use soffit vents and a ridge vent (or surface mount near the ridge - or gable vents, one on each end provided you finish the ceiling at the bottom chord. Do note that any doors or windows in the sides of the building will require headers as these walls are bearing walls.
One more very important note - typically you do not need a permit for sheds or outbuildings under 120 sq ft (do check your local codes), so a 16 x 20 shop will likely require a permit and this may change up what you may or may not do in regards to your shop construction. Also, exactly what will work on your property is hard to say and you will have to make a few judgment calls on your own to really determine if the construction techniques used in my videos will work for you - hard for me to say without knowing all the variables.
Also, for a larger building, you may want to make your soffit overhangs longer, maybe around 18", and the same with your gable overhangs (ladders should be fine to 18". If so, and you put a door on the side of the shed, make sure the fascia board height (bottom) does not interfere with door swing (if opening out that is)
after looking at some sheds I am going 12x24 instead of 16x20.this will be large enough for what I am doing.
I like the glue technique and i will do the same. What type of glue do you used?
Hi Victor... We used PL Premium construction glue. But other good construction glues like Liquid Nails or similar will also work well.
Hi Henry. How much of a gap did you leave between the panels when on the corners of the shed? Hard to tell from video. Thanks for your help.
As long as you are using 3 1/2" corner trim, you can be back anywhere from flush to 1/2"... this leaves at least 3" of the trim on the face of the panels. I personally like to be back about an 1/8" but it is not critical.
thank you very much!
Do you nail right in the grove or just beside? Thx!
Hi Stephane... in the grove so nails are not visible. Note that there is not as much material holding the panel in the grove when doing this so construction glue is very important.
where do you buy this pannel
Hi Hang...Home Depot usually has them
Can you use a solid color stain on the smart panels?
Hi Lisa... in my observation of the LP Smart Panels, the primed surface looks fairly tight and I am not sure if the stain would adhere to the panels as well as paint. I would personally play it safe and use a good exterior paint. If you happen to have stain on hand you want to use, maybe go to the LP Smart Panel website ( www.lpsmartside.com/products/panel/ ) and drop them an email and ask if it would be suitable (be sure to include the brand and stain you would like to use if you know).
Thanks so much for getting back to me. I took a chance and stained with an opaque stain, and it turned out wonderfully!!! Fingers crossed that it will stand the test of time!
is T1-11 It is structural items
It has any approved to be used for the shear
eric your question is not completely clear, but I have to assume you are asking if is approved for shear strength/resistance. I would think it would depend on the product and thickness. In any case, approved or not, I personally would not rely on it to provide shear strength for anything larger than a shed. Your plywood sheathing would be used to provide this strength and it it can be staggered to increase stability and resistance too - these panels are decorative and are not staggered when applied. For a small shed, great! But, IMO, once you start to get into larger structures you have to have the plywood sheathing substrate underneath.
You can achieve a greater shear strength with "let-in" blocking, metal strapping or diagonal blocking cut between the studs.....google any of them and you will find many ways including using a structural rated panel as a substrate to any finish you may apply over it.
I think he meant sheath. If so the answer is yes you can use it as sheathing. Thickness depends on whether your studs are 16oc or 24oc. In either case I would use the 19/32 thickness. This information is in the installation guide for the material available to download from home depot website.
Is it necessary to paint these panels? I know they are primed for painting, but I don't care for painting even though it would add extra protection.
Well, painting any cut edges and the lower part of the panel to protect against moisture is a must IMO. for the little amount of time and money involved, painting can add at least 25% to the life of the panels on a shed - well worth it considering what is required to build the shed.
@@Countrylifeprojects
Your probably right, it should be done. Thanks.
The panels are factory primed, not a final finish. They can be painted or you can use a solid stain. I would ensure the exposed edge (bottom) also gets painted.
I too have watched, enjoyed and used many things in your videos. My question regards the use of glue when using the 5/8" Smart Side Panels. We paid the extra and purchased the thicker panels.Glue and a few nails would still be your suggestion? I also like the idea of less nails through the panels thus creating less chance for water intrusion. Do you seal the nail heads, can't remember if you do or not? Thanks and keep up the help for us diy'ers!!
Greg Bosl Hi Greg... I would still use glue and nails, since no sheathing is being used first it is important that the panels are attached properly to the framing - this is where much strength of the shed comes in. We did not seal the nails, just countersunk and then painted over which is fine (e.g. wood siding is nailed on and I have never heard of leaks through the nails).
No house wrap?
Hi Donald... When building a shed that is not to be insulated, there is no need. In addition, since only LP Smart Panels are used and no sheathing - to increase the shear strength of the shed the panels are glued to the framing which adds a substantial amount of strength - I would not recommend using only these LP panels without the glue. House wrap is ideal when using sheathing, then wrap, windows, drip edges etc and then finish siding or other exterior finish. For a basic shed with no insulation and no sheathing it does not make sense to us house wrap.
fine work, but glueing the siding, REALLY ?
Well, the panels are only 3/8" OSB and by nailing in the groove and on the overlap lip, you are actually only nailing into 1/4" material. Considering that much of the shear strength comes from the panels I personally feel glue is a good idea. If you are not sure, try nailing a panel without glue and then pulling it off - it will not be hard to do without glue. For the little extra money and time I think it doubles the strength of the walls.
I did the same thing due there being no substrate sheathing...this stuff is intended for going over a framed and already sheathed structure. I'm would have to agree and exactly why I did the same thing, but I used subfloor glue which is about the same.
@@Countrylifeprojects I love that you glued it! I would not have thought of that but in Florida with the hurricanes I absolutely am adopting this method.
Mistake to glue. Goodluck replacing a damaged piece.
Well... when building without sheathing and only using the panels for shear strength, I would rather have a difficult time making a repair (which is only a maybe in the future) than a weak structure. IMO, the use of glue is critical, especially considering the panels are only 3/8" thick and made from OSB.