Get a shaker siphon hose and you don’t have to worry about spilling and it very quick also. The rops needs to be adjusted with the two knobs on the front and they work easily.
Objective and a fair review. Well done. The 2022 edition of the tractor is greatly improved, but it still has some difficulties which make a one man show nearly impossible.
Hi Jack, I have the same tractor, when I did the pre-delivery inspection I noticed the same issue with the ROPS, the technician fixed it by using a small type dremmel to grind the hole and make it just a bit bigger. What also helps that I’ve since noticed is loosening the big bolt just a bit and that seems to help. Take care
There’s a little tab on those safety can that you can use the lip of the fuel tank neck and push on it. Those cans can be turned completely upright, then push it down on the filler neck with the tab on the can and fuel begins to flow. I have a BX and use a similar can with no issues, good video thanks
The No Spill cans actually work very well for me. It rests right on the handle and the spout is dead center of tank. They’re a little pricey but are well built and fast flow
Put the seat forward, and fill the tank with the can sitting behind the seat. You dont have to hold it, and the weight of the can keeps the valve on the can open.
1. Drill a bigger hole 2. Use a acorn nut 3. Zip ties 4. The cutting-edge implement is for digging, not for scooping 5. Use a oil funnel 🤷🏻♂️ Just solved all your problems for $10 or less. If you think these little problems are annoying, don’t bother buying a John Deere. 🤣
The black knobs don’t do anything in this case. The misalignment is vertical. The knobs could be completely taken off and the pins still require a hammer to take in and out.
We have a kubota mower and it’s garbage rot dies 5 to 6 times while mowing and we also have a bx2380 and it’s pretty solid we use it at our farm but the throttle the way it slides up when even when you put up the throttle high it’s so annoying heck I really just take a bungie cord and put it on it so it doesn’t slip lol
Man, puck the folice!...ditch that gooberment-mandated safety spout on the gas can, get you a replacement nozzle from tractor supply or wherever. Drill a quick hole in the can and you now have a vent, along with a long and flexible spout you could just shove in the fuel fill. So much better.
Try loosening the Black knobs on your ROPS. I turn mine almost all the way out and I have no issues. You can also loosen the bolts by 1/4 turn and that might help too.
I am very confused by that jerrycan. I've never seen one like that in Canada, with that weirdly short and rigid hose, so maybe this is one of those small differences between Canada and the US. If you're in New Hampshire and need a jerrycan with a longer and more flexible nozzle, you could go up to Quebec and buy one at Canadian Tire or Home Depot.
I fixed the rops on mine in two minutes by finding a drill bit the size of the pin and running it through. Simple fix. Get rid of your gas can and get one from a race shop. Sometimes they call them "water cans" and they come in different colors. If I were running a tooth bar, I would simply take the bolt on cutting edge off. This will help lift capacity and roll back power too.
For fuel loading you need to fix your fuel can. Go to Central Tractor(Tractor Supply Company) and pick up the fuel can vent along with a new spout. That way you wont have to use the push connection to dispense fuel into your tractor. Another way might be to get a fuel caddy and mount it on the wall of your garage. Then its like pumping fuel from a gas tank.
And the handle is placed there because if you're driving along an incline you want to reach to the side to hold on, not down and forward, The filler is their because the tank is under the rear. It's a great design
Thanks for your input. The fuel fill, with its existing tank location has plenty of placement options. Moving the handle closer to the operator and shifting the fuel fill out is the simplest in my opinion, but there are other places it could be put as well. With your excellent mechanical design expertise, I’d suggest reaching out to Kubota for a job. You could be just the guy they need on hand to really make it big!
On the old ones, the tank was above the engine and you had to carefully balance with a five gallon load of fuel standing with one foot on the front tire and one on the platform, or some other awkward contortion that had major spillage or chiropractor visit written all over it. Plus with a loader, the boom blocked access to the filler as well. On larger farm tractors, they have finally made it easy to stand on the ground and have easy access to the filler. A fuel pump would help, but with compacts, most people aren't using a lot of fuel and having to carry a fuel pump to a tiny tractor seems like overkill.
We have two BXs and a John Deere 1025R. When JD upgraded the 2305 to the 1025R, they remedied the fan issue, but BX didn't. I was really disappointed, but just added Bro Tek protectors AFTER a fan was shredded with the deck mounted. DON'T count on the deck for protection.
I got a JustRite Type II can on Zoro for $65 and the extended nozzle works amazing, also won't tip over in my car. Solves the handle being in the way. Thankfully I watched this video before I bought a plastic can and avoided that. Thanks man!
Go to Tractor Supply and get a replacement spout for your can. Round head bolts would solve your bucket edge cutter or weld the cutting edge on like most folks do.
I had a BX and it never let me down but just too small... Upgraded to a B2650 and wish I had done it sooner. I have had it for a few years now 300 hours later, with no regrets.
Tractor Supply (and others) sell a fix kit for the approved ventless . You can drill a proper vent in the back and add covered port. It also comes with a longer flexible hose for the pour.
My biggest complaint is the separate peddle for reverse. If you backing up a hill its very hard to push down. Gas can issue I just use a funnel. thanks,
Good review. With you on the gas cans. The new cans are awful! I have some metal cans and older plastic cans that I use for big fill-ups. I always use a wide funnel when filling my tractor. It allows for errors and is very helpful when trying to pour from a full, heavy, 5-gallon can.
for the fan getting broke, I bought a aftermarket shield to protect the fan. I’m glad you told me about the poor quality of the wiring on the third function valve. On the fuel problem maybe a funnel would help. I haven’t noticed a problem with the throttle at all. It may need adjustment. Happy tractoring!
I too have noticed the annoyance of the ROPS. I always put mine down while mowing due to low limbs and find myself struggling too much to get those dern pins back in. Usually takes a lot of wiggling and/or thumb pad bruising from trying to tap the rops back where it needs to be. Thank you for mentioning the fan! If changing the fan isn’t an option for kubota maybe they could at least improve the skid plate. The factory plate is just shy of a waste. A lot of people also have complaints about the fuel filters and more specifically the one located under the tractor. I’m just shy of 60 hours and although they don’t specify to swap all filters and fluids, I’m doing them all but the coolant. I spent 18k on a tractor, no reason not to do extra preventative maint. Overall I am extremely pleased with mine as well :)
I contemplated mentioning the fuel filter, but with the relocation kits out there, and the fact it’s not something you really have to mess with frequently, it didn’t make the cut. The ROPS is just rough. We have a dead blow mallet that basically lives next to the tractor who’s sole purpose in life is to knock in the pins. Ours is so tight, no level of pushing and twisting with our bare hands will get them in.
I also take my mower deck somewhat regularly and have a hard time getting the rear arms lined up, takes some prying to get them where they should be. Still better than having the drive over deck with all the low hanging brackets.
I use a gas approved red can that has a swivel spout on the bottom of the can. I simply swivel to desired location then press handle on top to let fuel out.
Better the fan breaks than the shaft...and for your gas try a funnel...its much better than the gas fill on tge middle of the hood. Ty for the cool video👍👍👍
Thanks for the vid. the 3rd function is ridiculous, I'll have to hash this out when I purchase. Side note, every wheel loader I've operated, CAT and Komatsu, have the cutting edge mounted on the bucket the same way.
Gas can fix...Go to tractor supply and get their gas can spout kit (sold next to their gas cans). It gives you a vent that you install and regular spout just like the good old gas cans we use to have. This "update kit" only cost around $12 and is worth every penny!
I just subscribed to your channel about two weeks ago and enjoy all your content very much. Two things on the fuel can: first, if it's releasing fuel before you get it in the tank you need a new nozzle, part of the idea is that it has to be in the tank and depressed to deliver fuel so as not to be pouring it on the ground and creating an eco-tastrophy. Second, I found a conversion kit on Amazon with a vent and extendable, flexible nozzle to convert modern, stupid gas cans into usable, vented cans. I don't know yet if it will fit a diesel can but I intend to try and if not I'll check the seller for a diesel version. If you're interested I'll send you a link. I am a 5 week owner of a BX23S and a homesteader wanna-be and really appreciate your videos.
Go to Tractor supply and buy the old style filler neck for your fuel can. Makes life so good. Also I like you do not like the electric style of 3rd function valve. I researched that and when I ordered my tractor I did a hydraulic 3rd function valve setup. Grapples are awesome.
Check out SureCan 5 gallon diesel fuel cans. I have one I use for my BX2380, grab handle is in a perfect spot to hold up the can up. Also I had the same issue with my ROPS, I adjusted the rear knobs and no longer have a problem. Throttle, get a nylon filled lock nut. Use it as the last nut.
Loosen the bolts a little on the Rops. It’ll make it easier to install the pins. Had same issue with mine. A little WD40 helps too. Oh, and made a skid plate for mine as well to protect the fan. Never had an issue.
On my BX the ROPS pins drop right in very easily. And my throttle is very tight even after three rears. There are times I wished I had gone up in size myself. But the BX fits in so many tight areas where any other tractor would not work. And with my little 12 acre place anything larger would just be in the way. I'm thankful for it every time I jump in the seat. Oh, as far as the fuel fill. I fought that too and hated fumbling with those heavy cans and stupid spouts. So I built a 55 gallon fueling station using a plastic drum and an electric pump with a filling station nozzle on it from Amazon. When the tank gets almost empty I set it in the bed of my pickup, go fill it up, then use my front loader to scoop it off and set it back down. By the way, the whole setup cost under $100.
That helps with front to back alignment. It does nothing for the vertical alignment which is what’s off on ours. It’s a bummer but it is what it is. It still works.
@@TheMindfulHomestead must be different on newer models .On my older bx25d ,screwing the knob in stops the rops closing fully which does effect how far down the holes close over each other and acts as a depth stop once set .
Hey, thanks for the well done review. Thoughtful operational criticisms are not easy to find. I’ll be looking at 2024 BX models, but you have made excellent points, and helped me look, and evaluate more effectively, and set me up for much better questions before I buy, especially questions for the Service guys: what is going to break first? Best 3rd party alternatives? and others…. Thanks!
Sorry but gas can issues. See modification. I use tire valves for vent and normal spouts. The EPA cans I spill more fuel than mine. I had a guy chase me down a road because my EPA can fell over and was dumping out my truck.
3rd function issues fall on your dealer. They install it and sometimes they don’t use the landpride (kubota). I’ve already seen them use aftermarket ones to save a buck. As far as connectors , they should be zip tied away.
Not in this case. The misalignment here is vertical, not horizontal. The knob, no matter how it’s adjusted, won’t bring them in line in that orientation.
I can't believe one of your complaints isn't about the seat, I bought a new BX2370 and the ride is horrible.......... if I knew what I know now I would have never bought it. Thanks for sharing.
I think all tractors with those add-on cutting edges either have bolts on them, or they protrude into the inside of the bucket to some extent. Makes for manually loading and unloading stuff a pain, and when it comes time to replace that bolt on cutting edge especially you'll fight with getting those bolts out as the threads have been beat to crap. I agree the design on that could be better. That 3rd function valve wiring, I'd just go get a 3 or 4 pin trailer light plug and wire it into one of those, its still quick connect and it'll be much better for placement to be mounted against the side of the tractor out of the way and no more dangling wires, that's a wiring mess waiting to happen right there wow. I'll skip the 3rd function too when I purchase my tractor soon.
Yea, I've torn open bags of mulch and concrete on them and not been happy about it. I'll look into rewiring the 3rd function. I'll need to figure out just how many wires are in there first.
Hi Jack if you unbolted the second cutting edge before you put the piranha bar on the bolts would be there. The way you got it now you have three cutting edges on your bucket.
There are only 2. The bucket comes with no welded on edge. The piranha is made to either boot over the bolt on edge, or wrk with no edge, but they aren’t interchangeable. You have to chose when you order.
@@TheMindfulHomestead Hi Jack you where complaining about the bolt being in the way. If you took the bolt on one off be for you put the piranha bar on the bolts wouldn't be in the way.
I have some of those nozzles for fuel cans, there is supposed to be a little nub on the end of it that rests on the filler neck to push the nozzle open so you dont have to hold the nozzle just the can. You may be able to get a piece of rubber hose from the auto parts store that fits on to extend the nozzle to make it so the fuel goes in the filler neck at a much more shallow angle. I used to do that for filling the furnace fuel tank. I had almost 2 feet of hose on the nozzle that would go in the filler with the can up right. Then I could tip the can up with no spillage.
The reason they put bolts instead of weld on the bucket so you can change the cutting edge easier most people can't weld anyway so its just easier that way you could always take them out and weld it if you wanted to.
I work on these machines regularly. I think I can address most of these issues. 1. When trying to put the ROPS in the upright position, loosen the tension knobs first. Put the ROPS in the upright position, insert pins. Retention the knobs. 2. The throttle. This is an ongoing issue with these tractors. Some are loose from the factory. If you have one that’s loose, contact your dealer and they should be able to take care of it. If it’s out of warranty, it is easily corrected by properly tensioning the nut and jam nut. 3. The 3rd function. The 3rd function valves are normally installed at the dealer. If you are questioning the durability of the wiring/harness etc, I would talk to them. That’s not necessarily a Kubota issue. 4. Piranha tooth bar. I could be wrong but I don’t think that’s a Kubota item. See the dealer who installed it. 5. Grab bar. That’s not a tractor issue. That’s a you got the wrong jug issue. Call your congressman. 6. “Hydraulic fan” that’s the fan for your Hydro. The BX is a residential machine. It’s not meant to be crawling through the woods. It’s meant to move some light loads here and there on mowed grass. To change that fan is easily done by removing the motor. The motor can be removed in less than an hour with coffee breaks. Once the motor is removed, take the shaft loose from the hydro. It’s not a 5,6,7 hr job. I hope this helps. I didn’t write this to sh$t on your video. I wrote this to help people with common problems. Good Luck and next time get a B series.😂
Fair review. One of the things I dislike most about this tractor -- and this goes for the entire BX series -- is how it looks. It really looks like a slightly larger riding lawn mower and not like a farm tractor. I've seen this machine in showrooms and...I just can't bring myself to like its styling. IMO, the BX series would look much better if the tractors had: 1) Bigger wheels (the 12 inch rear rims and 10 inch front rims look puny), and 2) Less plastic trim (this makes the machine look cheap). I have a B6200 from the early 80s. Yes, it's a bit less powerful and the manual transmission takes some getting used to, but, IMO, it looks much, much better than any modern BX tractor. The 16 inch rear rims and 12 inch front ones really help out there!
I've had the throttle problem with the nut used red loc-tite good. Rops yea I carry a hammer for the implements so I use itn no older so none of those problems. The fuel I went on Amazon and got 3 new spouts for my fuel cans my aim is pretty good but sometimes I still use a funnel this works great.
I forgot to mention on the subject of the ROPS, aren't those black knobs there for adjustment? I thought my salesman said they could be adjusted as things got out of whack over time.
I do not have any equipment that i find easy to refill with fuel. If the can is full its worse. I put a clear plastic hose about 1.5 feet long that is curved downwards that fits tightly on the end of the spout. So much easier to fill anything and rarely spill fuel.
Jack....You are an amazing man and I would not put up with this garbage from Kubota. I will swing by and pick up that heap and take it off you hands....cause that is what a real friend does. LOL Another great vlog bud. I can't believe you still have beets and greens in your garden. Our okra is over 8 feet tall....what does that have to do with anything? It means it's stinking hot!!!!
That okra in your last video had me jealous! We never get a good crop up here and actually skipped it this year... and as it turns out, it's the first year it would have been hot enough for it. It's definitely the tail end of green season here. Once the beets, kale and broccoli rabe are out, we won't replant them until the fall. Maybe try to get something quick in there to turn around.
Another thing on the fan blade ... If they modified that with a spined shaft and put a threaded bolt into end of the slip shaft with a 2 piece gear that bolted with the slip shat to the main shaft, seems suffice. The fan should be of a plastic nylon that of the same material that clothes hangers are but with a bit more flexible / bendy without breaking.
8:07 get yourself a metal Just Rite 5 gallon can. I hate those plastic gas cans, always breaking, leaking fuel. Switched over to the metal cans and no regrets, totally worth the cost. It'll solve your problem and they'll last forever.
Thanks guys! Been looking at an alternative while limping along with this. Ideally, we’d just have a tank, but for now, I’ll probably pick up a few of the Just Rite cans.
The Mindful Homestead Friend of mine also has one of those battery powered fill pumps that he can’t live without. I’m not quite that lazy yet but worth a mention :)
use a rattle siphon 4 fueling its the bees knees. In Alaska we use atv waste oil jugs for fuel works like a charm it has a vent but the end hose only lasts a year or so with gas. JUST DONT FORGET YOUR SIPHON UNATTENDED FUEL WILL GET EVERYWERE!!!!! . PS THE SMALL TRACKTORS ARE THE WRONG TOOL FOR EVERY JOB . GET A small DOZER WITH BACKHOE CAN DO ALOT.
The shifter can be bent to allow for fueling up with any gas can spout. Unless they figure that everyone will carry a funnel with them upon the many other needed tools already to get job tasks done. Extra pins are always a YES !
1, the ROPS has adjustment knobs, if the pin doesn't go in look at the hold and adjust as necessary, 2, the throttle control I would expect from a store install, they don't want to over tighten things. I would put a touch of thread locker on it. 3, yes that is pretty janky 3rd function elect. Yuck... why isn't it mounted better... 4, the factory cutting edge is exactly that, factory. Designed for easy replacement and mass production with industry standard to hopefully reduce prices. 5, get a funnel... simple.... Great video and great points!
Try the 5 gallon diesel can that’s shorter than the one you are using with the 90 degree push button. They work really well for the exact position your dealing with. The fuel fill on my Deere is in the middle of my hood and that can works perfect. I believe It was from Tractor Supply
@@TheMindfulHomestead Yes. this. can. No-Spill is the brand, the push button valve is great, and you can rest the can on the grab handle while you fill, saving your arms. Handle goes from a bug to a feature, just by switching cans.
@@TheMindfulHomestead Here's what I use: www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FSY-Galvanized-Capacity-Diameter/dp/B000MX0EII/ref=sr_1_5?crid=16AS7CQBLK290&dchild=1&keywords=eagle+diesel+can+5+gallon&qid=1600351216&sprefix=eagle+die%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-5
Purchase an extra pin. Machine the one (or 2) pin down 25/ thousandths or greater this should give you enough wiggle room to get the other pin in so you have both pins secured. I think the tubing is a wear point and over time it will break in? I don’t own the tractor, but I can’t imagine them being misaligned from the factory, when you say you need a mallet to get the second one in... keep the spout and get a second knurled cap, attach some clear tubing and shelf the safety spout. If your storing the fuel you might want to switch? I think motorcycle shops that sell dirt bikes would have a better alternative?
A bigger tractor would help a lot for any digging. Glad that a knowledgeable salesman convinced me not to go too small. Best thing I ever did was buy a three point hitch mounted finishing mower and get rid of that useless belly mower. Out in the woods the belly mower was always catching on something and just a nuisance and it really isn't trivial to take on and off. Hanging under the tractor, it's always in the way and although most people don't get this until they've used one, a rear mounted mower is a hundred times better for maneuvering close to things, or getting under shrubbery. When it's on the 3 point hitch it adds dearly needed counterweight to keep the rear wheels on the ground when lifting anything heavy. I also found that a lot of third party loaders and related attachments are actually built a lot better than Kubota's. The tractors themselves though... wonderful little machines.
I don't have the BX, but i do Have L3560. Like you said most things I really like about the tractor, a few things could be better. I think the tractor could use a strong spring on the seat. I think the hydraulic fluid could come with dye or an easier way to see your level on the dipstick. My final gripe, it would be nicer to have a better brush guard. The one from the factory doesn't protect the tractor from smaller sticks.
I LOVE my B2320. BX is just too small. I got mine with a quick hitch so I can swap between my dozer blade and the 51 inch snow blower. WOW! My B2320 cost me $15,000 with the quck hitch and blade back in 2009 when I bought it. Tractor is prolly still worth that or more!
If these are the only things you hate about your Kubota then it speaks extremely well for Kubota! Thy are so trivial that the company should be overjoyed to find such a hate list. I’ve owned so many different pieces of equipment over the years and my Kubota is my favorite, hands down! I never have to make repairs on it, it is very forgiving of my torture to it, and it never complains. I can’t say that for much else I’ve owed over the years. So, even though there are a couple minor idiosyncrasies, big whoop. I just got a big funnel and take the stupid spout off the diesel can, tighten the nut when the throttle seems loose, put my undercarriage guard on in the woods, make the dang hole a tiny bit bigger on the ROPS. If that’s all it takes, damn I’m am a lucky man! You should be darn happy to be an owner of such a fine little piece of equipment…I am! Just think of the issues you’d have if you bought the John Deere. Oh yeah, nice veggies brother.
Except you’d void all liability in the event of a rollover with injury and need to replace the ROPS if the tractor was ever to be sold. Safety equipment cannot be modified.
@@TheMindfulHomestead I'd rather have functional safety equipment and no warranty than be possibly crushed to death to save my warranty and a few bucks. If you can afford the the tractor then you can afford the repair it. Can't afford to die and leave your family with fatherless for a warranty.
On the rops, lower it and drill the hole a little bigger. You'll probably never change the factory cutting edge so weld it and take the bolts out. Get a funnel for your fuel. Your problems are so simple to fix.
Fixing the ROP should be easy if the holes are pretty close. Fold it down and use a "step drill" (Unibit) and enlarge the inner holes just a tiny bit (one step)
I would have purchased a separate zero turn for mowing and never would have had to deal with the mower deck issues and if the deck goes down it’s gone.
Another thing: When you turn those lights underneath consider a rear mount bullet pair. run the wiring conductors down the rops and switch accordingly. I love my rears and use them alot plowing snow.
I always use a Mr. Funnel because I have had issues in the past with junk in my fuel and like to filter my fuel one last time. It makes it alot easier to pour the fuel with a container like you have. I have done what Mike says below and no issues, never had to use a hammer. slight push maybe to align. Yes Kubota could have done a better job on the lever. There again, all tractors will have some issues that they could have done better job designing and each person will have their own take what they would like to see on a tractor. I have the BX2680. My issue is the whining from the Hydrostat and the foot lever locations for forward and reverse. I would have like a 2 pedal side by side setup. The other issue I had is the cheap top link, and the 2 stabilizer arms. I replaced these items and installed a set of Pat's Quick Hitch.
I have a Kioti 3054 with the fuel fill in the middle of the hood. It was a real pain to get fuel in it without spilling. The fix for me was a $10 Battery Operated Liquid Transfer Pump from H.F. now it's no problem at all.
@@TheMindfulHomestead that sucks, and you're not alone. My brand new 2380 had a bolt that was put in stripped at the factory that holds the seat plate down. The holes aren't lined up through the top of the three point. Dealer has it now.
I would drill those holes out for the ROPS pins so they slide in and out easier....someone at the manufacturing facility really should think about that as well from the initial manufacturing standpoint. The throttle on my BX2680 is already starting to loosen itself up as well, I think I'll take it apart put a bit of lock-tite on it and put it back together. Good to know about that 3rd function kit being very sloppy. I'll definitely look at a 3rd party option if I ever need the 3rd function capability...as of right now I'm having a hard enough time just getting the 60" mower deck and pallet forks that I ordered with the tractor LOL...so getting any other implements and attachments is totally out of the question right now sadly. I've got some ideas in mind for some additional implements in the future but with manufacturing and import issues for supplies everyone is having problems right now so I'm waiting indefinitely on everything and just working with what I have. I've refueled my tractor twice now, and with the link I left in another comment a while back with a replacement spout and vent, I think that is a better option where you can bend the nozzle around to get into the filler hole much better...I need to see if I can find a link to the other spout I have on one of my other cans that has about a 18 inch spout which would be even better. I have the BXPANDED skid plate on my tractor now, I feel better having it on there even though I don't have anything around the property that I could think of that would end up in the HST fan, but don't want to take chances LOL. Especially if I ever have to take the tractor to a family member's property to do work. I have 14 hours on my BX2680 and so far the only issues I've had were caused by myself and my lack of experience and knowledge about tractors. The latest being the loader damage that bent the loader arms from trying to put the loader back on and one side of it not dropping down into the mount on the tractor before trying to raise the loader to lock it in place....it tweaked something in the loader arm(s) as it doesn't seem to sit right on the tractor. They came out and looked at it and are supposed to let me know what the fix was...they have fixed it but I haven't been around to see what they did LOL. They just told me that they were able to take care of the issue. During the installation of the BXPANDED skid plate, I also found that the mower deck adjustment knob wouldn't go to the TOP position...luckily in the installation instructions for the skid plate it tells you how to adjust it, got it all readjusted and working great now....I'm wondering if some of these items are just from the machine slowly breaking in and things falling into or out of place due to the break-in period....I wouldn't think so, but that deck height adjustment linkage is getting lock-tited into place if it gets out of adjustment again LOL. I should have gotten the bucket level indicator because I keep having issues of not knowing if the bucket is flat when trying to go into a pile of material, I've dug up a few places in the yard as a result....ooops, guess maybe the grass might grow back LOL. I have been thinking of getting the rear remote kit installed so I can install a hydraulic top link for being able to adjust the forward/backward angle of my box blade without having to manually adjust the top link all the time and then having to readjust it for other implements/attachments afterwards. The box blade honestly I think should have a hydraulic front/rear adjustment LOL, would make using it so much easier going from pitched forward when using the scarifier teeth, to pitched back farther for grading and leveling applications. I know though that the box blade works great on my gravel driveway, happy to have it for sure. I have used my roto-tiller a couple times and I keep forgetting to adjust the skid shoes so it'll till deeper, but I'm very happy with it, it does a great job of pulverizing everything and leaves a nice even look to the ground afterwards without any huge clumps left behind like my old Troy Bilt roto-tiller would do. The reverse rotation of the tines lets the tiller really dig in and work. This tiller has a shear bolt plus a slip clutch on the PTO, so its double protected I guess, or at least if the slip clutch doesn't slip like its supposed to the shear bolt hopefully protects things LOL. It looks like overall service and maintenance on this tractor will be pretty easy to do, and keep up with. At only 14 hours on the tractor I have greased the loader a few times already, and even with a pistol grip grease gun it doesn't require much effort and time. I do have a pneumatic grease gun but by the time I wait for my air compressor to fill I can easily hit all the grease points on the loader by hand...and I'm assuming the loader doesn't have any seals in those grease areas to blow out, so I guess using a powered grease gun on it wouldn't be a problem...I'd worry about doing the greasing on my roto-tiller that has bearings and seals though with a powered grease gun.
On the hyd fan check onkine for an after market company that makes a bolt on skid plate i have a massey and i found a skid plate they make for the hyd fan
Dude I feel your pain I have the same complaints about mine every single one. Also 2 or 3 grease zirks have fallen out or broken off within the first 50 hours. Or they have orange paint on them.
$25,000 tractor?!? Wow! They only cost around $16,000 with a loader where I live. Nice tractor, though. I am on the fence between the bx1880 and bx2380.
@@TheMindfulHomestead I was just messing with you. I figured you had other stuff. I am getting a bx1880 w/loader, cutting edge, and box blade delivered tomorrow. Not as slick as your toy, but probably just as much fun. I'm gonna check it over. Its been ready at dealer for a couple of days. They were waiting til I was able to get a day off work. Its been sitting out front of dealership and stopped 2 times inspecting it. I plan on going over it with a "fine tooth comb" as they say. I have heard horror stories how tranny and front diff and maybe engine's weren't topped up and were not caught until hours later. One guy even said his was bone dry after 50 or so hurs and he made a video of it. I'll try and post some vids soon. Have you ever thought about buying some stuff from my friends in Canada, Paul and Kathy Short. I have a bunch of mod stuff ordered from them An EZ ON step, diff petal, and light guards among a other stuff. I look at it this way. You want the best for your investment, buy from the best. Its making my good little tractor even better by purchasing from them. As Paul says, "It's the KOOL factor", and he's right. They are wonderful people and will treat you right. If you contactbthem about purchasing, tell them I sent you. He actually made a video just for me called "Basic Wire Soldering" a few years ago. I'll try and find the link. They don't have much time for videos like that, especially these days, so I really appreciate them takingvtheir pecioustime out to do that. GOD Bless them both and You and your family.
Agree on all accounts - I have an older model BX (60-series) and there have been no real improvements between the 60 and 80 series BX's that I can see. Though I will say I'm envious of the hood redesign on the 80 series. Pulling the lower bonnet off every time I want to do something in the engine is a real pain. Regarding the throttle, I ended up using a nylon lock nut and really tightened it down...you basically need the hand of god to adjust the throttle on my tractor. Not wonderful, but it doesn't creep back. My wife got me a small battery-operated fill pump for my 5-gal plastic gas can; works wonders and really saves the back. I think she picked it upon Amazon.
Big fan of your tractor content, and when I saw your vid about quitting job I knew why. (FWIW, thought you were in IT). Just purchased my Kubota. Given the price delta, curious why you didnt buy the 2680.
We weren’t using a lot of ground engaging implements, so the extra 2.5hp out the back wasn’t a huge deal. That and they had a 2380 on the lot where we would have had to wait for the 2680. With Jackie as pregnant as she was when we bought, I didn’t want to be dealing with a newborn and coordinating delivery, and learning a tractor. I’m also terribly impatient. 😉
@@TheMindfulHomestead In retrospect, do you think the add'l HP would be worth the cost given the experience with your tractor (obviously not a big enough deal to motivate a trade in).
I use the battery powered fuel pump from Harbor Freight and never standing there holding a fuel can.
Get a shaker siphon hose and you don’t have to worry about spilling and it very quick also. The rops needs to be adjusted with the two knobs on the front and they work easily.
I’ve played around with the knobs. The holes are misaligned vertically. No amount of adjustment brings them back in.
Objective and a fair review. Well done. The 2022 edition of the tractor is greatly improved, but it still has some difficulties which make a one man show nearly impossible.
The handle is pretty helpful when your driving on a high or hilly part of land I like it to hold on with mine it’s a pretty good setup.
Hi Jack, I have the same tractor, when I did the pre-delivery inspection I noticed the same issue with the ROPS, the technician fixed it by using a small type dremmel to grind the hole and make it just a bit bigger. What also helps that I’ve since noticed is loosening the big bolt just a bit and that seems to help. Take care
Thanks for the info! Thanks for sharing.
There’s a little tab on those safety can that you can use the lip of the fuel tank neck and push on it. Those cans can be turned completely upright, then push it down on the filler neck with the tab on the can and fuel begins to flow. I have a BX and use a similar can with no issues, good video thanks
The No Spill cans actually work very well for me. It rests right on the handle and the spout is dead center of tank. They’re a little pricey but are well built and fast flow
Put the seat forward, and fill the tank with the can sitting behind the seat. You dont have to hold it, and the weight of the can keeps the valve on the can open.
I’m going to have to try that! I never even thought to move the seat forward.
@@TheMindfulHomestead I mean tilt it forward, not just moving it forward.
1. Drill a bigger hole 2. Use a acorn nut 3. Zip ties 4. The cutting-edge implement is for digging, not for scooping 5. Use a oil funnel 🤷🏻♂️ Just solved all your problems for $10 or less. If you think these little problems are annoying, don’t bother buying a John Deere. 🤣
Agreed, but his point is for the money he paid he shouldn't have to do any of that, Kubota should have done that.
1. Loosen the black knobs on the front. That's to keep them from rattling by tightening against that pin.
The black knobs don’t do anything in this case. The misalignment is vertical. The knobs could be completely taken off and the pins still require a hammer to take in and out.
yep. Kubota is tops!!
We have a kubota mower and it’s garbage rot dies 5 to 6 times while mowing and we also have a bx2380 and it’s pretty solid we use it at our farm but the throttle the way it slides up when even when you put up the throttle high it’s so annoying heck I really just take a bungie cord and put it on it so it doesn’t slip lol
Man, puck the folice!...ditch that gooberment-mandated safety spout on the gas can, get you a replacement nozzle from tractor supply or wherever. Drill a quick hole in the can and you now have a vent, along with a long and flexible spout you could just shove in the fuel fill. So much better.
Fold the seat forward it helps alot.
Try loosening the Black knobs on your ROPS. I turn mine almost all the way out and I have no issues. You can also loosen the bolts by 1/4 turn and that might help too.
Might have to loosen the bolts. The issue is they are out of alignment vertically, so the knob adjusters don’t fix the issue.
I am very confused by that jerrycan. I've never seen one like that in Canada, with that weirdly short and rigid hose, so maybe this is one of those small differences between Canada and the US. If you're in New Hampshire and need a jerrycan with a longer and more flexible nozzle, you could go up to Quebec and buy one at Canadian Tire or Home Depot.
Thanks to the good old US govt.
I fixed the rops on mine in two minutes by finding a drill bit the size of the pin and running it through. Simple fix. Get rid of your gas can and get one from a race shop. Sometimes they call them "water cans" and they come in different colors. If I were running a tooth bar, I would simply take the bolt on cutting edge off. This will help lift capacity and roll back power too.
For fuel loading you need to fix your fuel can. Go to Central Tractor(Tractor Supply Company) and pick up the fuel can vent along with a new spout. That way you wont have to use the push connection to dispense fuel into your tractor. Another way might be to get a fuel caddy and mount it on the wall of your garage. Then its like pumping fuel from a gas tank.
And the handle is placed there because if you're driving along an incline you want to reach to the side to hold on, not down and forward, The filler is their because the tank is under the rear. It's a great design
Thanks for your input. The fuel fill, with its existing tank location has plenty of placement options. Moving the handle closer to the operator and shifting the fuel fill out is the simplest in my opinion, but there are other places it could be put as well.
With your excellent mechanical design expertise, I’d suggest reaching out to Kubota for a job. You could be just the guy they need on hand to really make it big!
On the old ones, the tank was above the engine and you had to carefully balance with a five gallon load of fuel standing with one foot on the front tire and one on the platform, or some other awkward contortion that had major spillage or chiropractor visit written all over it. Plus with a loader, the boom blocked access to the filler as well. On larger farm tractors, they have finally made it easy to stand on the ground and have easy access to the filler. A fuel pump would help, but with compacts, most people aren't using a lot of fuel and having to carry a fuel pump to a tiny tractor seems like overkill.
We have two BXs and a John Deere 1025R. When JD upgraded the 2305 to the 1025R, they remedied the fan issue, but BX didn't. I was really disappointed, but just added Bro Tek protectors AFTER a fan was shredded with the deck mounted. DON'T count on the deck for protection.
I got a JustRite Type II can on Zoro for $65 and the extended nozzle works amazing, also won't tip over in my car. Solves the handle being in the way. Thankfully I watched this video before I bought a plastic can and avoided that. Thanks man!
Go to Tractor Supply and get a replacement spout for your can. Round head bolts would solve your bucket edge cutter or weld the cutting edge on like most folks do.
Thanks for the tips!
I had a BX and it never let me down but just too small... Upgraded to a B2650 and wish I had done it sooner. I have had it for a few years now 300 hours later, with no regrets.
Tractor Supply (and others) sell a fix kit for the approved ventless . You can drill a proper vent in the back and add covered port. It also comes with a longer flexible hose for the pour.
Thanks for the heads up!
My biggest complaint is the separate peddle for reverse. If you backing up a hill its very hard to push down. Gas can issue I just use a funnel.
thanks,
I though that too. I actually began hooking my foot under the forward pedal and pulling up to reverse. It works well.
Good review. With you on the gas cans. The new cans are awful! I have some metal cans and older plastic cans that I use for big fill-ups. I always use a wide funnel when filling my tractor. It allows for errors and is very helpful when trying to pour from a full, heavy, 5-gallon can.
for the fan getting broke, I bought a aftermarket shield to protect the fan. I’m glad you told me about the poor quality of the wiring on the third function valve. On the fuel problem maybe a funnel would help. I haven’t noticed a problem with the throttle at all. It may need adjustment. Happy tractoring!
To sort the the fuel filling use a large funnel which I do when filling any vehicle.
I too have noticed the annoyance of the ROPS. I always put mine down while mowing due to low limbs and find myself struggling too much to get those dern pins back in. Usually takes a lot of wiggling and/or thumb pad bruising from trying to tap the rops back where it needs to be.
Thank you for mentioning the fan! If changing the fan isn’t an option for kubota maybe they could at least improve the skid plate. The factory plate is just shy of a waste.
A lot of people also have complaints about the fuel filters and more specifically the one located under the tractor. I’m just shy of 60 hours and although they don’t specify to swap all filters and fluids, I’m doing them all but the coolant. I spent 18k on a tractor, no reason not to do extra preventative maint. Overall I am extremely pleased with mine as well :)
I contemplated mentioning the fuel filter, but with the relocation kits out there, and the fact it’s not something you really have to mess with frequently, it didn’t make the cut.
The ROPS is just rough. We have a dead blow mallet that basically lives next to the tractor who’s sole purpose in life is to knock in the pins. Ours is so tight, no level of pushing and twisting with our bare hands will get them in.
I also take my mower deck somewhat regularly and have a hard time getting the rear arms lined up, takes some prying to get them where they should be. Still better than having the drive over deck with all the low hanging brackets.
I use a gas approved red can that has a swivel spout on the bottom of the can. I simply swivel to desired location then press handle on top to let fuel out.
Better the fan breaks than the shaft...and for your gas try a funnel...its much better than the gas fill on tge middle of the hood.
Ty for the cool video👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Loosen the thumb screws on the front of the rops. They are for taking out the slack out and retighten after the pins are in.
Nope. Been there done that. The misalignment is vertical and the thumb screws only adjust horizontal.
Thanks for the vid. the 3rd function is ridiculous, I'll have to hash this out when I purchase. Side note, every wheel loader I've operated, CAT and Komatsu, have the cutting edge mounted on the bucket the same way.
Grind down the ROPS pin point and it will be easy to line it up and hammer it into place or to push it in by hand
Gas can fix...Go to tractor supply and get their gas can spout kit (sold next to their gas cans). It gives you a vent that you install and regular spout just like the good old gas cans we use to have. This "update kit" only cost around $12 and is worth every penny!
I just subscribed to your channel about two weeks ago and enjoy all your content very much. Two things on the fuel can: first, if it's releasing fuel before you get it in the tank you need a new nozzle, part of the idea is that it has to be in the tank and depressed to deliver fuel so as not to be pouring it on the ground and creating an eco-tastrophy. Second, I found a conversion kit on Amazon with a vent and extendable, flexible nozzle to convert modern, stupid gas cans into usable, vented cans. I don't know yet if it will fit a diesel can but I intend to try and if not I'll check the seller for a diesel version. If you're interested I'll send you a link. I am a 5 week owner of a BX23S and a homesteader wanna-be and really appreciate your videos.
Go to Tractor supply and buy the old style filler neck for your fuel can. Makes life so good. Also I like you do not like the electric style of 3rd function valve. I researched that and when I ordered my tractor I did a hydraulic 3rd function valve setup. Grapples are awesome.
If you would back out the screws on the front of the ROPS the pins would go in; then relighted the two screws after the pins are in.
Already been there. It’s a vertical misalignment, the knobs on the front don’t do squat for it.
Check out SureCan 5 gallon diesel fuel cans. I have one I use for my BX2380, grab handle is in a perfect spot to hold up the can up. Also I had the same issue with my ROPS, I adjusted the rear knobs and no longer have a problem. Throttle, get a nylon filled lock nut. Use it as the last nut.
Loosen the bolts a little on the Rops. It’ll make it easier to install the pins. Had same issue with mine. A little WD40 helps too.
Oh, and made a skid plate for mine as well to protect the fan. Never had an issue.
It’s a vertical alignment issue. The bolts and knobs don’t fix the issue.
Gotcha, never had that issue.
On my BX the ROPS pins drop right in very easily. And my throttle is very tight even after three rears. There are times I wished I had gone up in size myself. But the BX fits in so many tight areas where any other tractor would not work. And with my little 12 acre place anything larger would just be in the way. I'm thankful for it every time I jump in the seat.
Oh, as far as the fuel fill. I fought that too and hated fumbling with those heavy cans and stupid spouts. So I built a 55 gallon fueling station using a plastic drum and an electric pump with a filling station nozzle on it from Amazon. When the tank gets almost empty I set it in the bed of my pickup, go fill it up, then use my front loader to scoop it off and set it back down. By the way, the whole setup cost under $100.
nice video, on the rops if you adjust the plastic knobs on the front of the hinge it lines the holes up perfectly
That helps with front to back alignment. It does nothing for the vertical alignment which is what’s off on ours. It’s a bummer but it is what it is. It still works.
@@TheMindfulHomestead must be different on newer models .On my older bx25d ,screwing the knob in stops the rops closing fully which does effect how far down the holes close over each other and acts as a depth stop once set .
Hey, thanks for the well done review. Thoughtful operational criticisms are not easy to find. I’ll be looking at 2024 BX models, but you have made excellent points, and helped me look, and evaluate more effectively, and set me up for much better questions before I buy, especially questions for the Service guys: what is going to break first? Best 3rd party alternatives? and others…. Thanks!
Sorry but gas can issues. See modification. I use tire valves for vent and normal spouts. The EPA cans I spill more fuel than mine. I had a guy chase me down a road because my EPA can fell over and was dumping out my truck.
3rd function issues fall on your dealer. They install it and sometimes they don’t use the landpride (kubota). I’ve already seen them use aftermarket ones to save a buck. As far as connectors , they should be zip tied away.
For the rops you align the pin hole with the threaded knob
Not in this case. The misalignment here is vertical, not horizontal. The knob, no matter how it’s adjusted, won’t bring them in line in that orientation.
I can't believe one of your complaints isn't about the seat, I bought a new BX2370 and the ride is horrible.......... if I knew what I know now I would have never bought it. Thanks for sharing.
I think all tractors with those add-on cutting edges either have bolts on them, or they protrude into the inside of the bucket to some extent. Makes for manually loading and unloading stuff a pain, and when it comes time to replace that bolt on cutting edge especially you'll fight with getting those bolts out as the threads have been beat to crap. I agree the design on that could be better.
That 3rd function valve wiring, I'd just go get a 3 or 4 pin trailer light plug and wire it into one of those, its still quick connect and it'll be much better for placement to be mounted against the side of the tractor out of the way and no more dangling wires, that's a wiring mess waiting to happen right there wow. I'll skip the 3rd function too when I purchase my tractor soon.
Yea, I've torn open bags of mulch and concrete on them and not been happy about it.
I'll look into rewiring the 3rd function. I'll need to figure out just how many wires are in there first.
Hi Jack if you unbolted the second cutting edge before you put the piranha bar on the bolts would be there. The way you got it now you have three cutting edges on your bucket.
There are only 2. The bucket comes with no welded on edge. The piranha is made to either boot over the bolt on edge, or wrk with no edge, but they aren’t interchangeable. You have to chose when you order.
@@TheMindfulHomestead Hi Jack you where complaining about the bolt being in the way. If you took the bolt on one off be for you put the piranha bar on the bolts wouldn't be in the way.
I have some of those nozzles for fuel cans, there is supposed to be a little nub on the end of it that rests on the filler neck to push the nozzle open so you dont have to hold the nozzle just the can. You may be able to get a piece of rubber hose from the auto parts store that fits on to extend the nozzle to make it so the fuel goes in the filler neck at a much more shallow angle. I used to do that for filling the furnace fuel tank. I had almost 2 feet of hose on the nozzle that would go in the filler with the can up right. Then I could tip the can up with no spillage.
A good drill bit will settle the rops problem and a funnel will help with the fuel problem .
Thanks for the tip.
The reason they put bolts instead of weld on the bucket so you can change the cutting edge easier most people can't weld anyway so its just easier that way you could always take them out and weld it if you wanted to.
I work on these machines regularly. I think I can address most of these issues.
1. When trying to put the ROPS in the upright position, loosen the tension knobs first. Put the ROPS in the upright position, insert pins. Retention the knobs.
2. The throttle. This is an ongoing issue with these tractors. Some are loose from the factory. If you have one that’s loose, contact your dealer and they should be able to take care of it. If it’s out of warranty, it is easily corrected by properly tensioning the nut and jam nut.
3. The 3rd function. The 3rd function valves are normally installed at the dealer. If you are questioning the durability of the wiring/harness etc, I would talk to them. That’s not necessarily a Kubota issue.
4. Piranha tooth bar. I could be wrong but I don’t think that’s a Kubota item. See the dealer who installed it.
5. Grab bar. That’s not a tractor issue. That’s a you got the wrong jug issue. Call your congressman.
6. “Hydraulic fan” that’s the fan for your Hydro. The BX is a residential machine. It’s not meant to be crawling through the woods. It’s meant to move some light loads here and there on mowed grass. To change that fan is easily done by removing the motor. The motor can be removed in less than an hour with coffee breaks. Once the motor is removed, take the shaft loose from the hydro. It’s not a 5,6,7 hr job.
I hope this helps. I didn’t write this to sh$t on your video. I wrote this to help people with common problems. Good Luck and next time get a B series.😂
Get a fuel pump. No strain no spill. Getting mine in 3 weeks Good job
funnel
Those two knobs near the pins on the ROPS are what you adjust so the holes line up.
Name Withheld Negative. Holes are misaligned vertically, when the ROPS is up. No amount of adjusting the knobs makes a difference.
@@TheMindfulHomestead Mine line up very well, maybe its just some that were mis drilled.
Fair review. One of the things I dislike most about this tractor -- and this goes for the entire BX series -- is how it looks. It really looks like a slightly larger riding lawn mower and not like a farm tractor. I've seen this machine in showrooms and...I just can't bring myself to like its styling.
IMO, the BX series would look much better if the tractors had:
1) Bigger wheels (the 12 inch rear rims and 10 inch front rims look puny), and
2) Less plastic trim (this makes the machine look cheap).
I have a B6200 from the early 80s. Yes, it's a bit less powerful and the manual transmission takes some getting used to, but, IMO, it looks much, much better than any modern BX tractor. The 16 inch rear rims and 12 inch front ones really help out there!
I've had the throttle problem with the nut used red loc-tite good. Rops yea I carry a hammer for the implements so I use itn no older so none of those problems. The fuel I went on Amazon and got 3 new spouts for my fuel cans my aim is pretty good but sometimes I still use a funnel this works great.
Funnel is usually the quickest and easiest fix.
I forgot to mention on the subject of the ROPS, aren't those black knobs there for adjustment? I thought my salesman said they could be adjusted as things got out of whack over time.
I've played with them all over the place. The holes are off vertically.
The biggest complaint we get is “I should have bought bigger.”
I can see that. We are on the fence ourselves about going to an LX.
I do not have any equipment that i find easy to refill with fuel. If the can is full its worse. I put a clear plastic hose about 1.5 feet long that is curved downwards that fits tightly on the end of the spout. So much easier to fill anything and rarely spill fuel.
Jack....You are an amazing man and I would not put up with this garbage from Kubota. I will swing by and pick up that heap and take it off you hands....cause that is what a real friend does. LOL Another great vlog bud. I can't believe you still have beets and greens in your garden. Our okra is over 8 feet tall....what does that have to do with anything? It means it's stinking hot!!!!
That okra in your last video had me jealous! We never get a good crop up here and actually skipped it this year... and as it turns out, it's the first year it would have been hot enough for it.
It's definitely the tail end of green season here. Once the beets, kale and broccoli rabe are out, we won't replant them until the fall. Maybe try to get something quick in there to turn around.
Another thing on the fan blade ... If they modified that with a spined shaft and put a threaded bolt into end of the slip shaft with a 2 piece gear that bolted with the slip shat to the main shaft, seems suffice. The fan should be of a plastic nylon that of the same material that clothes hangers are but with a bit more flexible / bendy without breaking.
8:07 get yourself a metal Just Rite 5 gallon can. I hate those plastic gas cans, always breaking, leaking fuel. Switched over to the metal cans and no regrets, totally worth the cost. It'll solve your problem and they'll last forever.
I second the metal cans. I have both Jerry and Eagle metal cans. Those new spouts are for the birds
Thanks guys! Been looking at an alternative while limping along with this. Ideally, we’d just have a tank, but for now, I’ll probably pick up a few of the Just Rite cans.
The Mindful Homestead Friend of mine also has one of those battery powered fill pumps that he can’t live without. I’m not quite that lazy yet but worth a mention :)
@@TheMindfulHomestead Hey Jack I picked up a SureCan at Chappell tractor. Works fantastic.
use a rattle siphon 4 fueling its the bees knees. In Alaska we use atv waste oil jugs for fuel works like a charm it has a vent but the end hose only lasts a year or so with gas. JUST DONT FORGET YOUR SIPHON UNATTENDED FUEL WILL GET EVERYWERE!!!!! . PS THE SMALL TRACKTORS ARE THE WRONG TOOL FOR EVERY JOB . GET A small DOZER WITH BACKHOE CAN DO ALOT.
Great tips!
The shifter can be bent to allow for fueling up with any gas can spout. Unless they figure that everyone will carry a funnel with them upon the many other needed tools already to get job tasks done. Extra pins are always a YES !
10:17 get a battery powered electric fuel transfer pump. It is $75 and transfers fuel without spilling or lifting.
Thanks for the tips. We’ve actually sold the Kubota and moved to something a good bit larger.
1, the ROPS has adjustment knobs, if the pin doesn't go in look at the hold and adjust as necessary,
2, the throttle control I would expect from a store install, they don't want to over tighten things. I would put a touch of thread locker on it.
3, yes that is pretty janky 3rd function elect. Yuck... why isn't it mounted better...
4, the factory cutting edge is exactly that, factory. Designed for easy replacement and mass production with industry standard to hopefully reduce prices.
5, get a funnel... simple....
Great video and great points!
The knobs on the ROPS adjust horizontal alignment. The pins are off vertically, so the knobs don’t help with that.
Try the 5 gallon diesel can that’s shorter than the one you are using with the 90 degree push button. They work really well for the exact position your dealing with. The fuel fill on my Deere is in the middle of my hood and that can works perfect. I believe It was from Tractor Supply
I’ll have to check it out.
@@TheMindfulHomestead Yes. this. can. No-Spill is the brand, the push button valve is great, and you can rest the can on the grab handle while you fill, saving your arms. Handle goes from a bug to a feature, just by switching cans.
Buy an Eagle diesel can...problem solved. I'm with you on the rops pin...I have same problem.
We’ll look into them!
@@TheMindfulHomestead Here's what I use: www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FSY-Galvanized-Capacity-Diameter/dp/B000MX0EII/ref=sr_1_5?crid=16AS7CQBLK290&dchild=1&keywords=eagle+diesel+can+5+gallon&qid=1600351216&sprefix=eagle+die%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-5
Good points
Thanks for watching!
Purchase an extra pin. Machine the one (or 2) pin down 25/ thousandths or greater this should give you enough wiggle room to get the other pin in so you have both pins secured. I think the tubing is a wear point and over time it will break in? I don’t own the tractor, but I can’t imagine them being misaligned from the factory, when you say you need a mallet to get the second one in... keep the spout and get a second knurled cap, attach some clear tubing and shelf the safety spout. If your storing the fuel you might want to switch? I think motorcycle shops that sell dirt bikes would have a better alternative?
A bigger tractor would help a lot for any digging. Glad that a knowledgeable salesman convinced me not to go too small. Best thing I ever did was buy a three point hitch mounted finishing mower and get rid of that useless belly mower. Out in the woods the belly mower was always catching on something and just a nuisance and it really isn't trivial to take on and off. Hanging under the tractor, it's always in the way and although most people don't get this until they've used one, a rear mounted mower is a hundred times better for maneuvering close to things, or getting under shrubbery. When it's on the 3 point hitch it adds dearly needed counterweight to keep the rear wheels on the ground when lifting anything heavy. I also found that a lot of third party loaders and related attachments are actually built a lot better than Kubota's. The tractors themselves though... wonderful little machines.
Bigger is almost always better.
I don't have the BX, but i do Have L3560. Like you said most things I really like about the tractor, a few things could be better. I think the tractor could use a strong spring on the seat. I think the hydraulic fluid could come with dye or an easier way to see your level on the dipstick. My final gripe, it would be nicer to have a better brush guard. The one from the factory doesn't protect the tractor from smaller sticks.
I LOVE my B2320. BX is just too small. I got mine with a quick hitch so I can swap between my dozer blade and the 51 inch snow blower. WOW! My B2320 cost me $15,000 with the quck hitch and blade back in 2009 when I bought it. Tractor is prolly still worth that or more!
buy a replacement fuel nozzle for that can on amazon. a must!
If these are the only things you hate about your Kubota then it speaks extremely well for Kubota! Thy are so trivial that the company should be overjoyed to find such a hate list. I’ve owned so many different pieces of equipment over the years and my Kubota is my favorite, hands down! I never have to make repairs on it, it is very forgiving of my torture to it, and it never complains. I can’t say that for much else I’ve owed over the years. So, even though there are a couple minor idiosyncrasies, big whoop. I just got a big funnel and take the stupid spout off the diesel can, tighten the nut when the throttle seems loose, put my undercarriage guard on in the woods, make the dang hole a tiny bit bigger on the ROPS. If that’s all it takes, damn I’m am a lucky man! You should be darn happy to be an owner of such a fine little piece of equipment…I am! Just think of the issues you’d have if you bought the John Deere. Oh yeah, nice veggies brother.
Problem #1. Get a step bit and some paint.
#2 thread locker.
Except you’d void all liability in the event of a rollover with injury and need to replace the ROPS if the tractor was ever to be sold. Safety equipment cannot be modified.
@@TheMindfulHomestead I'd rather have functional safety equipment and no warranty than be possibly crushed to death to save my warranty and a few bucks. If you can afford the the tractor then you can afford the repair it. Can't afford to die and leave your family with fatherless for a warranty.
@@09cjc03 It’s functional, it just doesn’t fold.
I also had my fan break from a stick and the radiator housing
On the rops, lower it and drill the hole a little bigger. You'll probably never change the factory cutting edge so weld it and take the bolts out. Get a funnel for your fuel. Your problems are so simple to fix.
They are simple, but would have also been easy for Kubota to fix from the factory.
Fixing the ROP should be easy if the holes are pretty close. Fold it down and use a "step drill" (Unibit) and enlarge the inner holes just a tiny bit (one step)
I would have purchased a separate zero turn for mowing and never would have had to deal with the mower deck issues and if the deck goes down it’s gone.
Your number one complaint pull other side of the Rob's a little till the whole lines up pretty simple
Another thing: When you turn those lights underneath consider a rear mount bullet pair. run the wiring conductors down the rops and switch accordingly. I love my rears and use them alot plowing snow.
It's a defeatist attitude saying you are "forced" to use this gas can style. :D
Well then call me the Cleveland Browns.
“Gascanspouts.com” Then you can use old style fuel cans ……
I always use a Mr. Funnel because I have had issues in the past with junk in my fuel and like to filter my fuel one last time. It makes it alot easier to pour the fuel with a container like you have. I have done what Mike says below and no issues, never had to use a hammer. slight push maybe to align. Yes Kubota could have done a better job on the lever. There again, all tractors will have some issues that they could have done better job designing and each person will have their own take what they would like to see on a tractor. I have the BX2680. My issue is the whining from the Hydrostat and the foot lever locations for forward and reverse. I would have like a 2 pedal side by side setup. The other issue I had is the cheap top link, and the 2 stabilizer arms. I replaced these items and installed a set of Pat's Quick Hitch.
I have a Kioti 3054 with the fuel fill in the middle of the hood. It was a real pain to get fuel in it without spilling. The fix for me was a $10 Battery Operated Liquid Transfer Pump from H.F. now it's no problem at all.
I’ve heard lots of positive about the HF fuel pump. We’ll have to look into it.
Great video, we are looking at getting a new tractor. This video was a huge help.
Don’t get me wrong. They are awesome machines. But man, sometimes their engineering choices make me scratch my beard.
If the alignment is off it’s a warranty problem. See your dealer!
Turn the adjusters for the ROPS pin alignment. Overall QC seems to be lacking just a bit
The holes are misaligned vertically. No amount of adjusting the knobs brings them into alignment.
@@TheMindfulHomestead that sucks, and you're not alone. My brand new 2380 had a bolt that was put in stripped at the factory that holds the seat plate down. The holes aren't lined up through the top of the three point. Dealer has it now.
I would drill those holes out for the ROPS pins so they slide in and out easier....someone at the manufacturing facility really should think about that as well from the initial manufacturing standpoint.
The throttle on my BX2680 is already starting to loosen itself up as well, I think I'll take it apart put a bit of lock-tite on it and put it back together.
Good to know about that 3rd function kit being very sloppy. I'll definitely look at a 3rd party option if I ever need the 3rd function capability...as of right now I'm having a hard enough time just getting the 60" mower deck and pallet forks that I ordered with the tractor LOL...so getting any other implements and attachments is totally out of the question right now sadly. I've got some ideas in mind for some additional implements in the future but with manufacturing and import issues for supplies everyone is having problems right now so I'm waiting indefinitely on everything and just working with what I have.
I've refueled my tractor twice now, and with the link I left in another comment a while back with a replacement spout and vent, I think that is a better option where you can bend the nozzle around to get into the filler hole much better...I need to see if I can find a link to the other spout I have on one of my other cans that has about a 18 inch spout which would be even better.
I have the BXPANDED skid plate on my tractor now, I feel better having it on there even though I don't have anything around the property that I could think of that would end up in the HST fan, but don't want to take chances LOL. Especially if I ever have to take the tractor to a family member's property to do work.
I have 14 hours on my BX2680 and so far the only issues I've had were caused by myself and my lack of experience and knowledge about tractors. The latest being the loader damage that bent the loader arms from trying to put the loader back on and one side of it not dropping down into the mount on the tractor before trying to raise the loader to lock it in place....it tweaked something in the loader arm(s) as it doesn't seem to sit right on the tractor. They came out and looked at it and are supposed to let me know what the fix was...they have fixed it but I haven't been around to see what they did LOL. They just told me that they were able to take care of the issue.
During the installation of the BXPANDED skid plate, I also found that the mower deck adjustment knob wouldn't go to the TOP position...luckily in the installation instructions for the skid plate it tells you how to adjust it, got it all readjusted and working great now....I'm wondering if some of these items are just from the machine slowly breaking in and things falling into or out of place due to the break-in period....I wouldn't think so, but that deck height adjustment linkage is getting lock-tited into place if it gets out of adjustment again LOL.
I should have gotten the bucket level indicator because I keep having issues of not knowing if the bucket is flat when trying to go into a pile of material, I've dug up a few places in the yard as a result....ooops, guess maybe the grass might grow back LOL.
I have been thinking of getting the rear remote kit installed so I can install a hydraulic top link for being able to adjust the forward/backward angle of my box blade without having to manually adjust the top link all the time and then having to readjust it for other implements/attachments afterwards. The box blade honestly I think should have a hydraulic front/rear adjustment LOL, would make using it so much easier going from pitched forward when using the scarifier teeth, to pitched back farther for grading and leveling applications. I know though that the box blade works great on my gravel driveway, happy to have it for sure.
I have used my roto-tiller a couple times and I keep forgetting to adjust the skid shoes so it'll till deeper, but I'm very happy with it, it does a great job of pulverizing everything and leaves a nice even look to the ground afterwards without any huge clumps left behind like my old Troy Bilt roto-tiller would do. The reverse rotation of the tines lets the tiller really dig in and work. This tiller has a shear bolt plus a slip clutch on the PTO, so its double protected I guess, or at least if the slip clutch doesn't slip like its supposed to the shear bolt hopefully protects things LOL.
It looks like overall service and maintenance on this tractor will be pretty easy to do, and keep up with. At only 14 hours on the tractor I have greased the loader a few times already, and even with a pistol grip grease gun it doesn't require much effort and time. I do have a pneumatic grease gun but by the time I wait for my air compressor to fill I can easily hit all the grease points on the loader by hand...and I'm assuming the loader doesn't have any seals in those grease areas to blow out, so I guess using a powered grease gun on it wouldn't be a problem...I'd worry about doing the greasing on my roto-tiller that has bearings and seals though with a powered grease gun.
On the hyd fan check onkine for an after market company that makes a bolt on skid plate i have a massey and i found a skid plate they make for the hyd fan
Dude I feel your pain I have the same complaints about mine every single one. Also 2 or 3 grease zirks have fallen out or broken off within the first 50 hours. Or they have orange paint on them.
I replace that fan 4 times i’ve got it down to replacing it in 2 1/2 hours it’s a dumb design yes but it’s made of plastic so it does break
Yea. Would love to have seen it a little more protected.
Get a couple VP Racing fuel jugs sold at Summit Racing with a long filler spout. Problem solved for $35.00.
Try lubricating that joint with a heavy duty spray
I knew the fan was gonna make the list. I remember you talking about that on another video. :)
A funnel? How about replace the vent less nozzle with an available replacement nozzle available on line
$25,000 tractor?!? Wow! They only cost around $16,000 with a loader where I live. Nice tractor, though. I am on the fence between the bx1880 and bx2380.
There’s a lot of extra stuff going on. Price it with a 60” deck and 55” commercial blower (not the homeowner grade blower).
@@TheMindfulHomestead I was just messing with you. I figured you had other stuff. I am getting a bx1880 w/loader, cutting edge, and box blade delivered tomorrow. Not as slick as your toy, but probably just as much fun. I'm gonna check it over. Its been ready at dealer for a couple of days. They were waiting til I was able to get a day off work. Its been sitting out front of dealership and stopped 2 times inspecting it. I plan on going over it with a "fine tooth comb" as they say. I have heard horror stories how tranny and front diff and maybe engine's weren't topped up and were not caught until hours later. One guy even said his was bone dry after 50 or so hurs and he made a video of it. I'll try and post some vids soon. Have you ever thought about buying some stuff from my friends in Canada, Paul and Kathy Short. I have a bunch of mod stuff ordered from them An EZ ON step, diff petal, and light guards among a other stuff. I look at it this way. You want the best for your investment, buy from the best. Its making my good little tractor even better by purchasing from them. As Paul says, "It's the KOOL factor", and he's right. They are wonderful people and will treat you right. If you contactbthem about purchasing, tell them I sent you. He actually made a video just for me called "Basic Wire Soldering" a few years ago. I'll try and find the link. They don't have much time for videos like that, especially these days, so I really appreciate them takingvtheir pecioustime out to do that. GOD Bless them both and You and your family.
Agree on all accounts - I have an older model BX (60-series) and there have been no real improvements between the 60 and 80 series BX's that I can see. Though I will say I'm envious of the hood redesign on the 80 series. Pulling the lower bonnet off every time I want to do something in the engine is a real pain.
Regarding the throttle, I ended up using a nylon lock nut and really tightened it down...you basically need the hand of god to adjust the throttle on my tractor. Not wonderful, but it doesn't creep back.
My wife got me a small battery-operated fill pump for my 5-gal plastic gas can; works wonders and really saves the back. I think she picked it upon Amazon.
Big fan of your tractor content, and when I saw your vid about quitting job I knew why. (FWIW, thought you were in IT). Just purchased my Kubota. Given the price delta, curious why you didnt buy the 2680.
We weren’t using a lot of ground engaging implements, so the extra 2.5hp out the back wasn’t a huge deal. That and they had a 2380 on the lot where we would have had to wait for the 2680. With Jackie as pregnant as she was when we bought, I didn’t want to be dealing with a newborn and coordinating delivery, and learning a tractor. I’m also terribly impatient. 😉
@@TheMindfulHomestead In retrospect, do you think the add'l HP would be worth the cost given the experience with your tractor (obviously not a big enough deal to motivate a trade in).
I come here for the tractor not to garden
Excellent thoughts..thanks
Great tips, thanks!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching.
Eagle safety cans work great
Thanks for the tip. We’ll check them out.