Completely underrated channel. No long intro, no Squarespace, no dubstep, no unnecessary chitchat. But: lenghty explanation, good camera work, proper articulation of sentences without buzzwords, straight to the point without losing time and explaining in a way also newcomers can understand.
I am a beginner climber. I wanted to check out the technique how to do efficient clip. And your tutorial is the best. You have explained and showed much more than the others. I am definetely subscribing.
I think that you could mention that many quick draws have 2 sides . One looser and one firmer with the carabiner fixed with some rubber usually. Looser part should go on the rock and firmer is for the rope. Its is a very important detail for many reasons.
0:00 intro 0:20 ground school 0:35 decide on orientation of draw placement 0:55 Left. THUMB Clip 1:25 BAD. Back Clip 1:50 Left. FINGER Clip 2:15 Right. Thumb and finger clip 3:15 (on wall examples) Place draw, clip in from comfortable position 4:00 example. high draw placement and clip from a comfortable position - Tip: grab rope with LIPS not TEETH 4:50 Four types of clip: Back/Finger, Left/Right 5:40 SUMMARY written on screen
I remember happening on this vid when I was draw shopping. Wanted to know extra safety tips: Your vid is the only one that goes over the “back clipping” hazard and makes a point of having the gates face away from the direction of climb. Every other video is just showing you how to put the pinch an thumb clip. Which arguably is the least important tips lol. Thank you for going over this. Also yours is the only one with the finger clip!
For the short moment when you hold rope with your teeth, do not change position with your hands or feet. If you slip, you will loose your beautiful smile. Use teeth as rarely as possible!!!
Great info. Small error at 5:03 re direction of gate wrt direction of climb. Compare to 0:40 "climb right, gates face left" vs 5:03 where he says "climb left" when he really means climb right with gates facing left. Small point. Otherwise excellent.
I have to second the comment below. While this guide and series obviously has great information, he has the messaging backwards briefly here. At 3:15, you would only want to high clip the draw in question if the lower stance were very good, as a high clip carries greater risk of a ground fall. In this video the higher stance is both better, and by virtue of not being a high clip, carries a lower risk of ground fall. I suppose if you were already facing a ground fall, and the moves up to the higher stance were ones you were likely to fall off on, then risking the high clip on a poor stance may be worth it - but at that point, maybe downlclimbing is a better option.
Probably something to do with continuous professional development. Perhaps you could reply by offering an alternative viewpoint instead and backing up why you think the video is correct?
This is illogical... if you high clip or climb higher, miss the clip and fall... In both scenarios you DO NOT CLIP and fall. Climbing higher will only result in a higher fall to the ground. Climbing higher to clip only makes sense when higher up the route with no chance of decking. Funny how he says that, he must be a professional...
@@derekatwood6236 Well, even professionals make mistakes sometimes, and I should know since I'm certified both through the CWA and ACMG and have designed lead climbing instructor's training programs for several gyms. I made note that this error was unusual for this instructor and this series - both of which are generally excellent. It's incredibly difficult to not have a single bobble when you put this much quality content and in this case this is their bobble. Despite being a wee bit on the condescending side, you haven't thought it through. This thread has diagrams which are helpful in explaining why you're more likely to hit the ground if you fall "high clipping": outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/5781/how-high-to-climb-before-clipping-on-a-sport-climb
@@profd65 If you're still salty, you can read my reply above to another comment or just visit this thread: outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/5781/how-high-to-climb-before-clipping-on-a-sport-climb
appreciate the discussion of which direction the clip should face as well as considerations for when to clip quickly, when do seek out a better clipping position ruclips.net/video/6x5euhMf-ag/видео.html
Why not just use the click stick every time to place the next quickdraw after reaching the current one. That way you are essentially doing top rope in increments. Never have to take a fall.
@3:30 Wrong information. High clipping while lower on routes is a lot more dangerous than climbing an extra half meter. You introduce double the amount of rope.
kaiser00hans I would argue that since he’s clipping the second clip, he’s already facing a ground fall if he climbs higher up, so it makes sense to clip high where the fall is less significant.
@kaiser00hans Where's your video, hot shot? What are your certs? If you're anything other than a noob, why are you at a video called, "How to clip quickdraws"?
Personally, I'd agree - by clipping high and on a tenuous hold, there is about an extra two feet of rope that's out. Just climbing those extra two feet to a more secure hold makes it a safer clip and a lot less slack out. Just a personal opinion. As the guy says, it's all personal judgement but it should be mentioned I think
Whether or not this is "a lot more dangerous" is entirely dependent on how far off the ground you are, the location of the previous bolt, and whether the rock below you is fairly steep with a clean fall or sort or slabby/blocky where you're going to bounce on something. High clipping can be safe or dangerous, it absolutely depends on the circumstance.
! ! ! DANGER ! ! ! * * * Clipping "high" at the second clip - as demonstrated here - can lead to you hitting the ground. * * * - - - At 3:05. "Here we are at the second clip, and I've got kind of a tenuous stance. So I want to get this rope clipped quickly because I am close the ground." - - - The rule of thumb is to clip the second clip from waist height and do NOT reach up to "clip high." If for some reason you don't make the clip (E.g. "tenuous stance") then you've added in the extra slack of reaching up. This is sufficient that: The rope you reach up to clip + that rope back to your waist + the rope back to the belayer + the slack in the system + the stretch of the rope is GREATER than the heigh of the first clip to the ground. HOWEVER, if you climb to waist height and clip, that extra reach up height is eliminated, and may just be enough to stop you decking. It is one of those counter-intuitive things, where it feels safer to clip, but actually may not be. The clip to the SAME clip at 3:40, where have climbed up a few steps, is actually safer. See here for some numbers: outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/4461/how-dangerous-is-it-to-fall-3-meters-when-lead-climbing
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Completely underrated channel. No long intro, no Squarespace, no dubstep, no unnecessary chitchat. But: lenghty explanation, good camera work, proper articulation of sentences without buzzwords, straight to the point without losing time and explaining in a way also newcomers can understand.
Agreed! And it's always info you can trust is correct and safe.
Love how good the clips sound sounds here! Good job with audio processing :)
Never gets old
I love how casually you clip and unclip the draws while on the sharp end of the rope, as if you turned gravity off while filming. A master at work.
I am a beginner climber. I wanted to check out the technique how to do efficient clip. And your tutorial is the best. You have explained and showed much more than the others. I am definetely subscribing.
see very similar video from Adam Ondra, his technic is the one I do since i saw it, i never put anymore any finger in the quickdraw.
I think that you could mention that many quick draws have 2 sides . One looser and one firmer with the carabiner fixed with some rubber usually. Looser part should go on the rock and firmer is for the rope. Its is a very important detail for many reasons.
Really awesome video, thank you for this! I've replayed it about a dozen times and keep seeing subtleties that really help.
0:00 intro
0:20 ground school
0:35 decide on orientation of draw placement
0:55 Left. THUMB Clip
1:25 BAD. Back Clip
1:50 Left. FINGER Clip
2:15 Right. Thumb and finger clip
3:15 (on wall examples) Place draw, clip in from comfortable position
4:00 example. high draw placement and clip from a comfortable position
- Tip: grab rope with LIPS not TEETH
4:50 Four types of clip: Back/Finger, Left/Right
5:40 SUMMARY written on screen
This route looks awesome
really love these videos - i wish there was whole lead climbing series with Dale!
So good! You do a pretty neat job man, congrats!!
I remember happening on this vid when I was draw shopping. Wanted to know extra safety tips: Your vid is the only one that goes over the “back clipping” hazard and makes a point of having the gates face away from the direction of climb. Every other video is just showing you how to put the pinch an thumb clip. Which arguably is the least important tips lol. Thank you for going over this. Also yours is the only one with the finger clip!
thanks! very helpful tips
AWESOME. Tks a lot for this video
where is this filmed at? would love to go climb here
best video
Man I miss climbing at red rocks
Clipping with your middle finger like that is really useful, I wish I had learned that when I started lead climbing.
For the short moment when you hold rope with your teeth, do not change position with your hands or feet. If you slip, you will loose your beautiful smile. Use teeth as rarely as possible!!!
Great information, where was this climbed/filmed
Looks like red rocks. Maybe black canyon wall.
Great info. Small error at 5:03 re direction of gate wrt direction of climb. Compare to 0:40 "climb right, gates face left" vs 5:03 where he says "climb left" when he really means climb right with gates facing left. Small point. Otherwise excellent.
I am still watching Dhe chef in 2020
I have to second the comment below. While this guide and series obviously has great information, he has the messaging backwards briefly here. At 3:15, you would only want to high clip the draw in question if the lower stance were very good, as a high clip carries greater risk of a ground fall. In this video the higher stance is both better, and by virtue of not being a high clip, carries a lower risk of ground fall.
I suppose if you were already facing a ground fall, and the moves up to the higher stance were ones you were likely to fall off on, then risking the high clip on a poor stance may be worth it - but at that point, maybe downlclimbing is a better option.
Where's your video, hot shot? What are your certs? If you're anything other than a noob, why are you at a video called, "How to clip quickdraws"?
Probably something to do with continuous professional development. Perhaps you could reply by offering an alternative viewpoint instead and backing up why you think the video is correct?
This is illogical... if you high clip or climb higher, miss the clip and fall... In both scenarios you DO NOT CLIP and fall. Climbing higher will only result in a higher fall to the ground. Climbing higher to clip only makes sense when higher up the route with no chance of decking. Funny how he says that, he must be a professional...
@@derekatwood6236 Well, even professionals make mistakes sometimes, and I should know since I'm certified both through the CWA and ACMG and have designed lead climbing instructor's training programs for several gyms. I made note that this error was unusual for this instructor and this series - both of which are generally excellent. It's incredibly difficult to not have a single bobble when you put this much quality content and in this case this is their bobble.
Despite being a wee bit on the condescending side, you haven't thought it through. This thread has diagrams which are helpful in explaining why you're more likely to hit the ground if you fall "high clipping":
outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/5781/how-high-to-climb-before-clipping-on-a-sport-climb
@@profd65 If you're still salty, you can read my reply above to another comment or just visit this thread: outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/5781/how-high-to-climb-before-clipping-on-a-sport-climb
appreciate the discussion of which direction the clip should face as well as considerations for when to clip quickly, when do seek out a better clipping position ruclips.net/video/6x5euhMf-ag/видео.html
Why not just use the click stick every time to place the next quickdraw after reaching the current one. That way you are essentially doing top rope in increments. Never have to take a fall.
“I got kind of a tenuous stance so I want to get this clipped quickly” - proceeds to explain the process while clipping in a tenuous stance
@3:30 Wrong information. High clipping while lower on routes is a lot more dangerous than climbing an extra half meter. You introduce double the amount of rope.
kaiser00hans I would argue that since he’s clipping the second clip, he’s already facing a ground fall if he climbs higher up, so it makes sense to clip high where the fall is less significant.
@kaiser00hans
Where's your video, hot shot? What are your certs? If you're anything other than a noob, why are you at a video called, "How to clip quickdraws"?
Personally, I'd agree - by clipping high and on a tenuous hold, there is about an extra two feet of rope that's out. Just climbing those extra two feet to a more secure hold makes it a safer clip and a lot less slack out.
Just a personal opinion. As the guy says, it's all personal judgement but it should be mentioned I think
Whether or not this is "a lot more dangerous" is entirely dependent on how far off the ground you are, the location of the previous bolt, and whether the rock below you is fairly steep with a clean fall or sort or slabby/blocky where you're going to bounce on something. High clipping can be safe or dangerous, it absolutely depends on the circumstance.
! ! ! DANGER ! ! !
* * * Clipping "high" at the second clip - as demonstrated here - can lead to you hitting the ground. * * *
- - - At 3:05.
"Here we are at the second clip, and I've got kind of a tenuous stance.
So I want to get this rope clipped quickly because I am close the ground."
- - -
The rule of thumb is to clip the second clip from waist height and do NOT reach up to "clip high."
If for some reason you don't make the clip (E.g. "tenuous stance") then you've added in the extra slack of reaching up. This is sufficient that:
The rope you reach up to clip + that rope back to your waist + the rope back to the belayer + the slack in the system + the stretch of the rope is GREATER than the heigh of the first clip to the ground.
HOWEVER, if you climb to waist height and clip, that extra reach up height is eliminated, and may just be enough to stop you decking.
It is one of those counter-intuitive things, where it feels safer to clip, but actually may not be. The clip to the SAME clip at 3:40, where have climbed up a few steps, is actually safer.
See here for some numbers:
outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/4461/how-dangerous-is-it-to-fall-3-meters-when-lead-climbing
he doesn’t so fast I can’t see what’s happening
who use ropes this days...only amateurs :P