Making a part: Desoldering Tips
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- Опубликовано: 28 дек 2021
- A set of fun little copper parts - These are desolder tips for a customer thats needs to desolder a certain part in reworking pcbs.
They go into a Weller soldering iron and heat/melt the solder on all four pins of the part in one go.
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old school machining is the best kind of machining. greetings from Los Angeles
Indicating around a .7mm gage pin blew me away, Wow! Great camera work too.
I am NOT a machinist. I am a woodworker. I very much enjoy watching your videos. I learn a lot on how to make my woodworking more precise by seeing your techniques and applying them in my own work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Yes as a wood butcher I agree 120%.
I love that macro shot of the finished product at the end. Copper really does look beautiful when it's in pristine condition... and precisely machined :)
Thanks Stefan. Yes, I did learn something. I always learn something watching your work.
Pleasure to watch Stefan! TFS, GB :)
Love your videos. I'm not a machinist, but seeing parts done with such a precision and understanding what you do, and why you do it (thanks to your clear explanation) satisfies my inner engineer :).
Thank you.
As I grow and learn more and more of the world of machining, I find and enjoy watching (those that can make with perfection) small and tiny parts being made. Stefan, along with Joe Pie & TOT have become my favorite and first to watch and learn from. Yes, CNC is great, but see tiny parts do on manual type machines is top's in my book. Thx for taking time out to these parts, and the video quality is superb,,,,Bear in TX.
Check out Robin Renzetti if you have not found him yet. Another master machinist.
@@nicolashuffman4312 Also "Mr Crispin" has an excellent channel.
....and Cà Lem in Vietnam
ruclips.net/video/65K3QryCoQk/видео.html
6@@nicolashuffman4312
I've come to really appreciate flat bottom drills. They're a one trick pony, but that one trick sure does come in handy a bunch.
🎵 Flat bottomed drills, you make the rocking world go 'round 🎵
Interesting project. Well filmed/edited & narrated.
SUPERB job Stefan. You sir are the epitome' of German precision. Bar none !!!!
Just a guy in a small shop :)
Excellent video,almost on St Stefan day.Thank you.
I thought I was going to get some 'tips' on desoldering. Was not disappointed though.
Excellent content! Amazingly clear close-up shots! Thank you!
Denaturated alcohol is good for cutting aluminum. Did not know it also works on copper. I use it a lot when parts are going to joined by heat curing epoxy and similar. Less cleaning. One problem I noticed is alcohol surprisingly causes some corrosion on ground steel surfaces.
I npticed this with some of my tools after a long weekend....my shop is climate controlled :(
Very efficient process Stefan. In a future video would you be able to show how you set up your DRO plan when you are doing repetitive manual machining operations. For example - how do you keep track of roughing cuts and final passes on your lathe... do you make a table of target dimensions and just go down a list of operations? Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
Happy New Year 🎉🎉 from the other side
of the creek.👏🏻👏🏻✅💯
25:54 vocals on Point!
And your shown skills in the video are genius, as always 😊
Thanks Stefan. I always learn something from you.
A master at work. Your teaching is very valuable. Thank You
Fascinating Stefan. Thank you for this!
Thank you for sharing, it is always great to hear enthusiam for a job backed by experience. Gives hope.
This was quite a bit of fun! Copper is beautiful - the main reason I ever use it - but so gummy. I was glad to see there is someone else who turns the chuck and feeds the quill by hand when threading if the situation is somewhat iffy. :-)
You're amazing! Thanks for sharing this.. Very interesting.
Looks like somebody either had a flaw in the design of a circuit board or they have a defective component and it just got expensive!
That desoldering tip is specific for one component judging by the spacing of the holes, pretty good way to desolder though, just place the desoldering tip over the component pins with some flux and wiggle the old part out.
COOL!!
I will try to remember this one as I sometimes have to desolder parts from DC drive control circuits (usually over driven and over heated IGBTs).
Great work as always, Stefan!!
I've learned a lot from you, I prefer making things as precise as I can (within reason) and you are the only one that shows that level of accuracy and detail (with the exception of Robin R.).
Thank you, Stefan!!
Joe
Both are not the case, they have a very good reason for that desolder tip.
The customer already tested them, and they are very happy, it works exactly as desired :D
Thanks for the kind words!
There were 0.3" pitch DIL chip desoldering bits for Weller irons that would melt the solder on multiple pins to extract the chips but I've not seen them for sale for a long time. They did need the temperature of the iron turned way up to melt the solder because of the extra mass of the bits and the increased surface area radiating away the heat. Nowadays most industrial-grade desoldering is done using vacuum-pump desoldering guns like the Hakko FR-301.
@@robertsneddon731 Back in the 1970s when I was young and poor I got 14 and 16 pin DIPs for projects by desoldering them from surplus boards. I cut off a hunk of 1/4" copper tubing the length of a 16 pin DIP, cut that about in half, smoothed and adjusted the edge spacing to just under 300 mils, filed a half-round in the side of a square chisel tip for an old Weller non-temperature controlled iron, and then drilled and tapped a #4 screw to hold the tubing to the chisel tip, and soaked the whole thing in flux and solder the first time I warmed it up before it could oxidize. With that I could trivially heat all pins on almost any standard DIP at once and pull the chip out of the board in just a few seconds. Worked like a charm. I've still got that iron, but I haven't needed to use it in decades. If I'd had more money I would have silver soldered the tubing to the chisel tip, but I didn't have the money for that for a few more years.
Thank you, Stefan. I’m especially grateful for the tip about using isopropyl alcohol in this way. Happy New Year!
Stefan- thank you as always for taking the time to film and explain what and why, it is greatly appreciated.
Best wishes for a happy and productive 2022!
thx stefan, again so beautiful to see.... love your precision, thx4sharing...
Beautiful work as always.
Thank you so much for sharing.
Fascinating - as always. Plus great video work. Best wishes for 2022.
It does look fancy but it also looks professionally done! 🙂
Beautiful lighting. Art.
Yes a New Stefan video ☆
Love your calm and precise work, craftsmenship you make !
Well done
Grts from the Netherlands Johny geerts
Nice ; clean work for sure. Thanks for the look. Happy New Year !
I learn so much every time I watch your videos; thank you! Happy New Years.
Setting up a jig and using the rotory table was great choice for making multiples.
Only way to be productive on a manual machine 🙂
Für einen "Hobbybastler" wie mich immer wieder ein Highlight, Dir bei der Arbeit zuzusehen.
Danke...und "Happy 2022", ist ja bald soweit. 😉😎
Dankeschön, wünsche ich dir und deinen lieben auch!
Wow....! One of your best yet.... Great camera shots. Love your videos, they inspire me to do good work....!! Keep up the good work....!
Happy Holiday's Stefan! Wishing you, your family, the pets and the community all the best for 2022!
Thank you! Wish you and your beloved ones the same.
Thank you for continuing to do these videos, Stefan!
Much appreciated! :)
Of course I learnt something!
Merry Christmas Stephan, hope you have a good 2022.
Happy New Year ! Not having CNC Machines I always learn thing I can use when you do projects like this. Thank You.
Immer wieder Top Videos, wirklich eine feine Arbeit die da abgeliefert wird. Erfolgreiches neues Jahr wünsche ich
Tellurium copper is another good one to machine, almost like sulfurised steel. Used a lot in machined copper parts and makes great electrodes for EDM also.
Today i was thinking about making me a solid copper enclosure for an amplifier project. Now with this video I get a better of how awesome it should look like :D Thanks!
Hi Luis
I do a lot of audio builds and restorations myself, specifically vintage gear. One of my favorite projects so far was restoring a wire recorder originally built in 1941. It was designed to be into a leather suite case type thing and when I took it apart to clean and replace electronics I was absolutely amazed how beautiful it was.. (After polishing) It was a solid skeleton of wonderfully shaped copper with brass plates inside the case. I put it all back to look as it would be new but I keep looking for another machine to clean up to display as the raw skeleton. Pre war electronics, especially audio, are stunning machines.
@@euclidallglorytotheloglady5500 yes they are, and this project I am thinking of is tube amp as a matter of fact. It doesn't make sense, since Al is way cheaper, but the looks must be awesome 😎
Happy holidays Stefan! I've heard of beryllium copper but the Zr alloy is new to me; thank you for the insight.
Don't remember subscribing to your channel, but I certainly see why I did! Great tutoring and narration!
👍 nice craftsmanship as always
Thanks for sharing! I always learn a lot watching your setup work flow. "power feed - not feeling that adventurous today" I laughed entirely too much out loud at that. Power feed with a .07 mm drill would require some serious stones lol
Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Thank you! Wish you and your beloved ones the same.
Another interesting video Stefan.
THANK YOU STEFAN, AND HAPPY NEW YEAR. REGARDS RICHARD.
Thanks for the IPA tip!
Happy New Year.
Happy New year Stefan.
Stefan, The Navy planes I worked on had Beryllium copper brakes. Very toxic nasty stuff, which we had to wear masks just to inspect or perform maintenance on the landing gear. Good call on not using Beryllium copper.
Another excellent video. Here in the US, IPA is an abbreviation for a much different type of alcohol.🍺
Funny 😁
I think we Bits would claim that originally, Brewed to last the long ship transport to India.
Yeah, Hippster Beer :D
You’re awesome bro! Been watching for years keep it up!
good job stefan..good new year
I often run an old 10EE at work and it's nice, but I really envy how fast your lathe starts and stops.
Seems like he just switches directly from forward to reverse, instead of waiting for the lathe to stop, before he switches to reverse.
If I would do that with my large Leblond heavy duty lathe, the 11kW motor would surely blow the fuses when switching to reverse while it spins forward...
But the lathe has a special reverse gear for threading, so there is no need to spin it in reverse. Unfortunately that gear is broken, so I can only do left hand threading and have to rewind it back by hand...
@@Henning_S. I think he's got a VFD with good braking since it stops so well even when he isn't reversing.
@@Henning_S. I watch a channel where the guy has some sort of lathe that seems to have a bidirectional drive and clutches without reversing the motor. As best I can tell he has a single handle on the carriage that will go forward or reverse, and will also do it slowly or at the set speed. I have no idea what make of lathe it is, but it is fascinating to watch.
Thats the magic of a VFD with a decent sized brake resistor ;)
It allows to put the spindle to a rather quick stop, without a mechanical brake.
You have fantastic video mate. Super professional job 👍👍💫
Excellent work and informative. I would love to see this desoldering tools in use. I think I see how they're used but not entirely sure.
Rather simple in practical use - Its used to heat up the solder on all the four pins of a certain part at the same time, then the part is pulled out.
Hello, yeah always learn something watching your interesting videos, happy new year.
Very neat, thanks.
Thank you for this video - that part can’t have made you much profit in the first place, so I guess you figured you might as well 😉
Beautiful shots, I love machining where the surface tension of the oil is a whole story as it wets the area - and at some point we could see tiny copper bits floating inside the oil drop!
And yes - learnt lots, and enjoyed it!
I am always impressed by your excellent work ethic. Younger folks should take note, We want to produce items that look and feel like someone was paid to produce it. I would no doubt be a happy customer of yours.
Take Care and Stay Safe.
Bob
Happy New Year Stefan. It has been an excellent year of content on your channel and I continue to learn and gain confidence from watching you.
When I read "desolder" and saw the holes - I kept waiting to see how you were going to drill them through and connect to a vacuum source. Finally understood that it was simply to melt the solder around the 4 pins for withdrawal. Oops...
Thanks for the explanation, I thought it was a desoldering tool also. Happy New Year!
Same thing I thought, thanks for the insight.
it's actually a neat idea for desoldering a high value salvage part like a vintage mosfet with in 4 pin sip with a body connection.
or for removing a connector where one pin is on a large ground plane and the board is very expensive.
@Dave Pin i use almost the same setup but i have an air ejector vacuum pump instead of an airline hooked to a foot switch, it comes to a hole in my bench and you just stick a stainless tube in the hole, put the joint over the tube and heat from the top until it flows, one quick suck and the stuff goes flying down the tube and into a trap at the bottom
awesome work
Very nice rotary work there.
Nice job .
That's a cute little grinding vise.
As usual fantastic work and an excellent video. I always look forward to your thoughtful process and 1st rate process . Top flight sir. I will add that using the drill on your collet chuck on your lathe put a smile I on my face. Have you checked your the run out on that drill.... :)
Excellente Arbeit, Stefan....top
Dankeschön!
Very nice and delicate work Stefan. In machine inspection is a good tip. Happy New Year. Cheers, Jon
Are they going to get plated? Solder will form intermetallic compounds and erode the copper quite rapidly otherwise.
The next ones will get plated - These where a proof of concept.
Copper is good for thermal heat transfer. The block of copper would allow for good heat transfer with that mass. I suppose one could try using thermal compound in the threaded hole to get more heat transfer between the screw and the block. Not sure how the screw attaches to the rest/heat source. Maybe the screw is a stand-in for a heating element? Thanks for the video.
It interfaces to a regular Weller soldering iron, with the sleeve that holds the tip in place - That doesnt work with the large block in front, as the sleeve cant pass over it, thats the reason for the 2 part design.
Yes, the large block is for added thermal capacity.
Ha! Beim abrunden am rundtisch hab ich mich dabei ertappt die Späne wegpusten zu wollen :D
Aaah copper I'm machining some pure copper parts for electronic devices and it is always nightmare :D But I have only small router not a big mill.
Vote up, nice video, thanks for sharing :)
We love you.
Sehr interessant und einfallsreich. Und mit Kupfer sind solche feinen Bearbeitungen doch ganz entspannt. Für mich als Zuschauer wahrscheinlich mehr als für dich ;-) Aber die Vorstellung, das alles mit hochfesten Stahllegierungen als Werkstoff machen zu müssen, bringt einen schon zum Zittern. Wie auch immer - danke für die detaillierten Einblicke!
Danke!
Ganz ehrlich, ich mach sowas lieber in einem guten Werkzeugstahl oder einem vergütetem Stahl - Ist zwar etwas schwerer zu bearbeiten, aber es ist zugleich auch entspannender, weil man nicht so leicht kratzer reinmacht, Ecken/Kanten verdrückt oder sowas in der Art.
@@StefanGotteswinter Das stimmt natürlich. Einmal falsch angefasst, kann man von vorne beginnen. Für Prototypen ist Alu oder Kupfer aber gar nicht schlecht, denke ich.
Excellent work. This may be a stupid question but, for the blocks, why not lay the bar of copper horizontally in the mill vice, mill it into a cube the size of the blocks and feature. Then mill the feature on the top side, drill all the holes for the four pieces, chamfer the edges, on all sides. Then part off the blocks and do the final chamfers/radius and clean up? That way you could have made the bulk of the blocks in one setup.
Not a dumb question - That would be just a different way, if you can get barstock off a good size. I was a bit limited by the roundstock i was able to aquire in short time, so I had to machine it from round stock standing vertical up.
But in general, machining it as a strip, especially on a cnc would be a very good call to minimize setups.
Sehr gut really interesting thanks so much
beau travail !! le métal doit il etre protéger par nickel ou autre pour éviter la corrosion de l'étain chaud ?
I see the need for a new tool in the shop, a Stefan custom made mini lube dropper…….dispensing exactly 1/8th of a drop. This will not only lessen the work of clean up, but also lower the cost of cutting oil immensely. Just think of the time and cost savings! Let’s see, materials, machine tool time, labor involved….you can do multiple items and sell the excess ones for say………well you know what a Stefan Gotteswinter custom tool could go for. Retirement made easy. You are welcome buddy.
Any idea how zirconium-copper compares to tellurium-copper (C145)? Wonderful work, as always. Maybe the parts will be Ni+Fe plated so they don’t dissolve in the solder as fast.
Yeah I agree they need to be plated, unplated copper will oxidize and destroy itself quite quickly if these are used a lot, like in production environment.
Even just a quick and cheap nickel plating will be worth a lot.
Great video too Stefan! 👍😁
These where a proof of concept, the next ones will be plated for sure.
I have not used Te Copper - I have seen both Te and Zr Copper been used for edm electrodes, for its good machining capability.
Zirconium, tantalum and titanium are used for medical implants, all are fairly nontoxic. Tellurium (15mg is enough) causes the persistent garlic like "tellurium breath" issue. I never liked tellurium, but I have no idea if it is an issue machining its alloys. As far as I know most similar problems as with beryllium come from grinding dust. I have used beryllium oxide ceramics and it was a big nono grinding it...
wieder mal, gute arbeit!
Danke!
Hi Stefan,
As always very detailed video and top-class work.
Where do you get your raw materials in Germany?
They should perform quite well with all that thermal mass. I'll hazard a guess these were ordered because the customer's vacuum desoldering station wasn't powerful enough, never fun when that happens.
Happy New year Stefan. You could really benefit from a simple two axis cnc mill with conversational control like the SWI prototrack ones . They give you a manual machine flexibility with a cnc that doesn't need cadcam .
If I recall it correctly he mentioned in an other video that he would be happy to own a Fehlmann Picomax 21.
Seems to be a good match when the ads states "The PICOMAX 21-D fulfills even the highest requirements for maximum precision and handiness for state-of-the-art workshops."
Yes, I also like the Trak mill that Robin has - Very much a toolroom machine.
I have seen some incredible work done on 2 axis Trak mills - I think they are a good fit for prototype shops.
@@haraldwupptich1860 To bring a 900kg machine in Stefans basement would be quite a challenge.
MUY BUENO SALUDOS.
Have you compared the machinability of the Tellurium alloy against Zirconium/Chrome? I use mostly Tellurium Copper CW118C for small parts, it takes a good 0.5 mm pitch thread that polishes well. As I'm making microwave antenna parts, the electrical conductivity is important. CW118C is about 95% IACS conductivity, but CW106C Zirconium Copper is only around 75%. I have never tried CW106C, although I use a lot of CW114C Sulphur Copper where I need a mirror finish on larger parts. Getting a fine finish on the bottom of slots made with a tiny end mill in the Tellurium alloy is tricky, I get some machining marks even if I use a 20k rpm toolpost spindle with a 0.5 mm slot drill
Whats the benifit of the kratex abrasive I've seen you use ot before
It wears to fit whatever profile you want to polish, e.g. threads.
Thank you Stefan! This is so helpful today. I'm in the last process of restoring 1978 Aurora Brugnetti espresso machine. The boiler is now open and the end plate cover studs and threaded holes are a mess. Nine holes around a 145 mm diameter flange. A bit difficult for me to do myself, but trying. Four of the (M10) steel studs broke off and need to be drilled out. Four of the other holes had 3/8 -16 helicoils inserted some time ago. Going to try and leave those and use 3/8-16 SS screws for those. (they are a bit of a mess too as seemed to have been done with a hand drill, don't look exactly perpendicular to the flange) I have 10mm SS set screws for the 5 other holes and was thinking about how I will tap (M10) those holes. Was thinking when I woke this morning to look online and see if there are any bottoming taps with threads very close to the end. Most seem like they still have 5 mm that won't be threaded. Now I see a path to the end. I just have a new to me drill press, but think I will use a small mill in the DP to grind the broken studs flat to the flange, scribe the center (need to learn best way) and center punch. Use a spot or center drill (just the 120 tip, I saw from your other video), then drill to depth with 118 11/32 drill. Now I see I should find a flat bottom drill too and maybe grind a tap off to get threads lower in the hole. I'm trying to think if maybe it doesn't mater that my threads go all the way in though. Confusing to know the best idea, but this video sure helps with some ideas about how to get those holes fixed up. I've been studying many hours just on this one task. :) A mill sure would be better than a drill press. If anyone wants to look at some photos and give me advice I sure would appreciate it! photos.app.goo.gl/GLxnrnV51bjUAKXAA
@kalo93406 it might be worth trying a left-hand drill to bore out (and hopefully twist out) those studs - sucks if you're not on-centre though🤷♂️ it's hard to indicate on a threaded rod, especially if it's not perpendicular. Any chance you could weld a nut on top then try wrenching them out? (the heat of welding may help loosen them) looks like something that *would* keep me up at night thinking of alternatives👍
@@2lefThumbs Totally understand those options, (have studied all options for many hours) welding the nut on was the first thought, but decided on the drill out plan. Welding has potential for the spatter and also wondering if it might compromise brazed joints, also I would need to buy a welder or take it to someone, would a welding person use care??? My gut feeling was the left had drill wouldn't work either, the stud corrosion was so bad, but really have no experience with any method. I could consider the left hand drill option again. Did you have a chance to look at my photo album? I guess I was looking for tips on the drill out option I've decided to go with. I think the 10mm broken studs are likely original and in more perpendicular holes compared to the 4 holes that have 3/8 helicoils. Have a rotary slide table and some T-nuts arriving today. Securing the boiler is a bit complicated too. Thanks for your reply!
@@kalo93406 yes I did take a look👍welding isn't necessarily a cyre-all, so if you don't have a welder, probably not wirth a try-looks like the 'lid" may be a casting too. Abom79 has done quute a few stud/bolt removals, not sure he's done single dedicated videos though (maybe in his "saturday night special /sns" series?) He seems to have luck drilling with L/H bits, then, if he's centred OK, unwinding what was the male thread out of the hole using picks and needle-nose pliers. Good Luck, whichever way you proceed👍
@@2lefThumbs I think I saw that video with the pick and needle-nose pliers at the end. I'm sure I saved it somewhere among the hundreds of links I've saved! Gets complex just trying to remember where one saved what what one is trying to remember! haha :)
Amateur question: How'd you set the length of the part at 14:14? Chucking it didn't look like there was a backstop (=can't take it out to measure, either), there isn't really enough stickout to get a micrometer on there and the only accessible step is chamfered anyway... and yet the final length ended up within 30μm (33:04, and I suspect most of that was from the square-bottom hole and not the screw)
Flat bottom drills makes the parts go right.
Hi Stefan
Thanks for another video. I really enjoyed it.
I noticed you were threading using the Multifix. Did you change back to the compound to cut the threads or did you use the fixed tool post that you installed in an earlier vid? I am asking as I have been pondering if threading was possible without swapping back to the compound.
Thanks again for all the great content.
Happy New Year.
Todd
I do all my threading with straight infeed, its not an issue at all.
I recently did 70x3mm traprezoidal threads in stainless steel, also with straight infeed - Not a problem.
I am a MUCH less accomplished machinist than Stefan. I do own a small lathe and when I single-point cut threads I use straight infeed. I just feed in smaller steps, which is not a problem when you are not doing large series.
Please note: I only single-point cut threads when I can't avoid it. Also the compound slide on my small lathe is very flimsy, so I use it only when I really can't avoid it.
When you do a run of parts like this, do you make extras in case you have a mishap along the way?
Yes, I made one spare - Once all the setup is done, the actual machining time is very short.
T hanks and A way better New Year
Sehr schick.