Same here. I think I either heard it for the first time or forgot. I lived in the area for a couple of years. But somehow didn’t think about you speaking the dialect ;)
22:25 That's right! Even though there is a thousand videos on the 29.5 deg compound setting. My 1942 Machinist Hand Book says it's A-OK to feed straight in.
Stefan I love the videos a lot. I work as a manual machinist and watching your videos (along with Abom79 and This Old Tony) have taught me quite a lot about machining. Thank you for the great content and for the education
This video was just a perfect combination of narration/explanation, ASMR machining footage, and 4x footage for repetitive tasks. And a big +1 for the German vocab! Mehr, bitte!
Thank you for showing everything and not skimping on information. I've been planning "for ages" to get some small lathe as a hobby. Haven't really used lathe or machined in 20 years and about all was at school. It's interesting to see actual skilled workers and their solutions and I specifically enjoy seeing creative solutions like that grinder mounted on tool post. Two thumbs up!
very nice work as per usual Stefan, I myself use the same method of coring out stock. I can't tell you how many times I've used the cores for other parts.
Always a pleasurable way to spend time watching the latest activity from the GTWR secret mountain lair, sorry, workshop. Just a marvellous viewing experience. I must sharpen up my rotten editing skills....
I have just stumbled across your channel amazing work! I have been a machinist for about 25 years now. I work in the die industry. It's always rewarding for me to watch another machinist work that knows what their doing. Keep up the great work!!
I've been admiring this silent running of Stefan's Maximat as well, as mine is nothing like as quiet as this. What oil do you fill the headstock with mr. Gotteswinter? Probably my gears are simply more worn...
Stefan. This is some wonderful work. Only you can come up with a 45 minute video for cutting threads and you have me focusing hard on it and learning something in every frame. Thank you!
No , your absolutly not a lazy person !! Impossible when you make such cool stuff , and makes beautifull videos of it ! greetings from the netherlands your budy Johny Geerts
I *was* wondering why you needed to beef up the thread, thanks for the explanation at the end👍 - Thanks also for adding in some German phrases to add to the educational aspect of your videos!
Thanks Stefan 👍 It is always a pleasure watching you do prototyping, and machine upgrades, and ‘acquiring’ cool machines, and….. the list goes on 🤣 Regards Robert
CNMG-431/2 inserts were always my go to insert for turning work. Even in lathes as small as a Hardinge or even small hobby bench lathes. Of course as you go down in power the depth of cut and feed need to be considered. One thing I always liked about the Hardinge lathes was the variable speed DC motor on the feed drive*. It was very easy to dial the feed rate in for good chip control. Unfortunately there are certain materials that just do not break the chip no matter what you do. *a great modification for any bench lathe as is a Single Tooth Reversing Dog Clutch for threading.
our TOS SV18RA lathe has that single tooth dog clutch for threading.... threading became really easy with it... it also comes with a little lever on the toolpost which allows you to retract around 10mm out of way, so you don´t have to mess with your crosslide handwheel... it´s stock thing, but I always loved it
@@piter_sk Is it just one direction or both ways. It's one of those things that probably does not add that much cost to the lathe considering they can eliminate the Thread Dial assembly. And the retract lever on the compound. That was something Hardinge had also. One thing people do not seem to understand about setting up gearing for cutting any thread form be it Inch, metric, Module or Diameteral Pitch is it's all about the ratio between the leadscrew and the spindle. If the leadscrew is say 4mm for the pitch and you need to cut a 1.5mm pitch the ratio is 1.5÷4 or .375. Or if there is a QCGB and the leadscrew is say 4TPI. Then cutting a 8TPI thread requires a .5 ratio. I've looked into building my own gearbox for threading and determining the gearing in the selector box is not that hard. And yes a single tooth reversing dog clutch was include. But the STRDC must run the same speed as the spindle. Otherwise they won't repeat.
Yesssssss! Im here to get my brain sharpened, thank you for all the german/english translations, I genuinly try to mimic them every time i hear one. And also...thanks for all the machining stuff too of course. Cheers from vermont
What an interesting project. I used to have to hand file blunt start threads quite often. It was a job i hated. Here in England we called it "half dogging " a screw thread.
"Some people say it work hardens, I say your tools get dull"...hahahahaha...I needed a good laugh today!..now I'm inspired to make a crude hopper funnel (no threads) out of aluminum for my coffee grinder. Thanks for the video. PS: now i have to go inspect all my bottles...
The range of tensile strengths for 304 in Stefan's chart provides a woeful telltale -- given that the analysis does not vary, it can only arise from strain hardening.
Making your own toolpost spindle would be an interesting project. I'm drawing up plans to make one for our lathe based on off-the-shelf shafts, bearings and other parts intended for cheap 3D printers and routers and the like.
17:38 One of these days we will need a gruesome, special.effects laden video about the background of how all these safety precautions came to pass. _"Staplerfahrer Klaus hat auf Dreher umgeschult"_ _"High Impact Hand Safety vol. II: Surviving Edged Chuck Jaws"_
Another excellent video Stefan. And thanks for the free hearing tests at 7m32s and 11m35s. As a musician it was quite reassuring to confirm I still have pretty good high frequency hearing 🙂
Stefan, real nice work, real nice video again. Thank you for sharing! One question; you preloaded the soft jaws on a piece of round stock clamping on the inside. You use the claws clamping on the outside. Shouldn't you use a ring preloading the soft jaws in the same direction as the part is clamped? Curious about your answer. All the best, Job
Great video! Sequence of operations, work-holding, deburring..........."a problem well-defined is a problem 90% solved". Thanks for sharing. Question/comment: What material will the mating threads be made from? Some kind of glass reinforced, injection molded polymer, I hope? It's been my experience that 304 stainless (SS in general) galls badly, to the point of locking up, over time when mated with aluminum or stainless steel threads.
Yes, getting stainless screws that have galled on the threads can be a real pain in the kiester. Sometimes you need to drill out to just over the root diameter of the screw and take the thread out with a needle nose. Just make sure you are dead nuts to the center of the screw and tapped hole. On assembly we always used Anti Sieze and ran a tap into the holes. And throughly cleaned the holes out. I would have preferred to run in a form tap but they didn't want to spring for them.
@@mvadu Thanks! I didn't realize the cap assy. was a functional prototype. I thought it was more of a 3D-printed assembly model, a just for "look and feel" sort of thing. Cheers, F.C.
omg, stainless galling - I made huge adjustment screws with 25x1mm thread, probably 250mm long at one point - And I was running the threadgage along the screw, to check for fit over the entire length. It took very a lot of Oil, back and forth to get the threadgage off again, without damaging the part or gage. (that was 303 stainless)
@@StefanGotteswinter Common ultra-high vacuum hardware: stainless steel nuts, stainless steel bolts, stainless steel washers clamping stainless steel flanged pipe connections. Galling everywhere. Antiseize is messy, which is painful or unacceptable. A common partial solution is silver plated bolts. Silicon bronze nuts and washers work much better whenever you can get away with them.
Hi Stephan. I really enjoy your videos. They are instructional and step by step just like I like to watch. Also you have the uncanny ability to communicate and teach both professionals and non professionals at the same time. You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your journeys.
Thanks for the excellent teaching lesson. Using the tool post grinder/router to cut down the web of the thread was interesting. I always take away new ideas !
I love watching your work, its so far away from my level but its fantastic to know what can be done with the knowledge and gear. Really appreciate the effort it takes to make these video's
Stefan, thanks for sharing this (and editing and whatnot) ! I have now for some time adopted a habit to not to knock the workpiece to seat it into the jaws. Instead I push it either with something in the toolpost or in the tailstock and then tighten the jaws. This is because I have had difficulties with the workpiece jumping away from the jaws when knocking it. I know it is something that happens if You knock it too hard. With pushing this does not happen.
That's probably why he used a hammer with animal hide on it (dampening the blow) while also having the part tightened a tiny bit before using the hammer.. there should be no spring-back if you do it that way.
I made a dedicated 30mm holder for my annular cutters which fits in the Multifix holder. ie, taking the MT2 out of the system. (The other end of the 30mm holder has an 18mm socket for my boring bars, ie the ones that fit the UPA3)
Auf so eine Idee muß man erst mal kommen. Weiter so! Du hast Grips, geschickte Hände und offensichtlich Spaß dabei. Diese Kombi sollte sich irgendwann mal so richtig auszahlen! Ich würde es Dir von Herzen gönnen! - Grüße aus DD!
Ich muss gestehen, als ich das Gewinde gesehen hab und dann das mit der Gaskartusche, hab' ich mir gedacht, das dass eine echte Rohrbombe werden könnte wenn man da zu lange 'sprudelt'. Aber beim Kickstarter steht zum Glück, dass es ein Druckablassventil gibt. Interessantes Projekt
When I watched this initially comments were turned off.. For the thread start, I've kind of come up with the same solution, haven't actually made my spindle adapter yet though.. Well done! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience! Your inside and outside chamfer tool, I'm guessing it's just a shop made carbide blank?
Thanks! Yes, I fortgot to turn the comments on, when I put the video live. The chamfer tool is just a 8mm carbide blank, split in half, ground to 90° and relieved.
I had to provide a Higbee (blunt) start on my hardened Myford Super 7 headstock spindle, because I had garked it (long story)., and I came up with the same approach, doing it with a toolpost grinder and turning the leadscrew by hand. It made a perfect job. I had to do it in another Myford, running the spindle in a fixed steady protected from grinding dust by taping several pairs of knickers in turn over the steady and to the spindle (which only had to turn about 180 degrees). I had to do it like this because the Super 7 was disassembled at the time for a "like new" refurbish (and because I won't grind anywhere near the S7) It is much nicer changing chucks with a blunt start thread. The Myford register is also preferable to the Southbend/Boxford proportions, as it engages before the thread does.
Your thread cutting trapezoidal tool? Is it hss. I battle with 304 but you make it look so easy.? 2nd question.Does Emco still make stuff. i live in S Africa and its hard to get any stuff. All our chucks seem to be the non reversible type. I have an emco three jaw and would love to buy a set of reversible jaws so I can make soft jaws. Do you think I could find a set of soft jaws for an v13 emco chuck. Thankyou for taking the time to video your work. I learn lot from you.
Nice video, always learn something new from you. One remark. You are cutting 3mm pitch thread, and your leadscrew is also 3mm, . This means that you don't need to have always closed half nut. You can engage leadscrew at any position. It will always be in alignment... Seems easier, and can be more relaxed when cutting it...
Stefan mentions that possibility, at about 24:20, but he mentions that due to habit (muscle memory) he prefers to stick to what he calls the "European" way, keeping half nuts engaged and backing up. To me it is not so much European as "metric", as metric leadscrews make it unfeasible to disengage the half nuts, even when doing metric threads which are not a whole multiple of the leadscrew pitch. This arises because of the way pitch is defined (with the length unit as the numerator -- rather than the length unit as a denominator, with value of 1, as in tpi. If metric threads were denominated in "threads per dm" rather than "mm per thread", a threading dial would obviously be viable. It's about the one indisputable advantage I can think of attached to the inch system, and it's why at least one metric lathe manufacture decided to use tpi leadscrews on all their manual lathes -- the one I'm aware of being CMT on their Ursus range -- as it makes the provision of a dual language gearbox simpler, both mechanically and operationally. Of course with CNC, the problem dissolves. One French lathe manufacturer (Caseneuve) came up with a threading dial for metric threadcutting, but while characteristically brilliant, it was outrageously complicated. There was also an English third party attempt, branded Ainjest, IIRC, which never really caught on.
Hi Stefan, When cutting soft jaws, in my experience it is better to clamp the jaws in the orientation you will be tightening the job in. So if you are gripping in a bore you would clamp the jaws with a ring on the outside of the jaws, this will eliminate any backlash in the scroll and jaws. Best wishes, Mal.
3:25 In my experience drilling 304-stanless, you must keep a chip going. If it ever "rubs" (no chip) it's very hard to press through. Often I would change the angle of the twist drill To pointier then flatter until I break through the hard stuff, then re-sharpen as normal.
50 extra credit points for using the term Kitty wampus... Probably one of my all time favorite words to describe a very special situation. Not to be confused with Fubar of course... lol. I'll let you google that one if you dont know it already. Cheers
Is preloading the jaws using a part inside the jaws a good idea when you're going to be gripping on the outside? I'd think that the deflections would not be representative of the final use. A ring for preloading would be better. I'm sure it's more than good enough for most work.
On your note of threading without a compound slide; do you have any way of picking up an existing thread if needed? Like re-indexing the part or geartrain?
I do hope your customer sells a million of these; the setup costs seem to be considerable. Thank you for explaining what the the threads are for; I was certainly puzzled.
That's what CNC is for. Start with DOM or cast material. But if you are going to be making a million of them a dedicated multispindle indexing lathe such as a Cone-a-Matic might actually be faster. Time is money. I used to know a guy with a 2 or 3 person shop. He had a Cone-a-Matic set up specifically for doing the nose caps for 5" naval shells out of bar stock. One index of the machine and the parts were cut off and finished.
"Some people say 304 stainless work hardens, I say your tools get dull."
Spot on, Stefan. I keep watching to hear gems like this. 👍
Your generosity in sharing your skills is educating a whole generation of budding machinists...Thank You.
It’s even more valuable to the none machinists.
100% agree. Too good to be true
your profile Photo got me hypnotized...lol
Amen to that!
I love when you throw some German in there. Your Dialekt gets me every time :D
"Hohlstooohl"
Same here. I think I either heard it for the first time or forgot. I lived in the area for a couple of years. But somehow didn’t think about you speaking the dialect ;)
32:38 "The difference between the expert and the beginner is the expert knows when to stop!" Machining quote of the day!!! Well said, Mein Herr!!!
First.
Hahahahhahahaha....You cheated!
22:25 That's right! Even though there is a thousand videos on the 29.5 deg compound setting. My 1942 Machinist Hand Book says it's A-OK to feed straight in.
Stefan I love the videos a lot. I work as a manual machinist and watching your videos (along with Abom79 and This Old Tony) have taught me quite a lot about machining. Thank you for the great content and for the education
Amazing how much work goes into designing all the things we see every day and take for granted, thanks for sharing
This video was just a perfect combination of narration/explanation, ASMR machining footage, and 4x footage for repetitive tasks. And a big +1 for the German vocab! Mehr, bitte!
Thank you for showing everything and not skimping on information. I've been planning "for ages" to get some small lathe as a hobby. Haven't really used lathe or machined in 20 years and about all was at school. It's interesting to see actual skilled workers and their solutions and I specifically enjoy seeing creative solutions like that grinder mounted on tool post. Two thumbs up!
Very cool project, I'm glad they allowed you to show and discuss it. Neat idea!
Thank You Stefan, for your videos, but mostly for your honesty and skills. Great Job on a hard task.
Thanks Stefan. It was nice to see the full product at the end. Seeing that put the rest of the work in context.
Thank you for taking time to film this while working. It was highly educational and entertaining as always.
the "some say it work-hardens, i say your tools get dull" made me LOL
I'm in awe at the amount of work it must take not only to make all those parts but to record and edit it all as well! Thank you!
very nice work as per usual Stefan, I myself use the same method of coring out stock. I can't tell you how many times I've used the cores for other parts.
Always a pleasurable way to spend time watching the latest activity from the GTWR secret mountain lair, sorry, workshop. Just a marvellous viewing experience. I must sharpen up my rotten editing skills....
I have just stumbled across your channel amazing work! I have been a machinist for about 25 years now. I work in the die industry. It's always rewarding for me to watch another machinist work that knows what their doing. Keep up the great work!!
Just a privilege to watch and listen, camera angles are fantastic. Thank you very much.
Your lathe runs so quietly for how much power it delivers. I love watching your work and seeing your tools.
Shame about the squealing while boring. My ears!
I've been admiring this silent running of Stefan's Maximat as well, as mine is nothing like as quiet as this.
What oil do you fill the headstock with mr. Gotteswinter?
Probably my gears are simply more worn...
Stefan. This is some wonderful work. Only you can come up with a 45 minute video for cutting threads and you have me focusing hard on it and learning something in every frame. Thank you!
No , your absolutly not a lazy person !!
Impossible when you make such cool stuff , and makes beautifull videos of it !
greetings from the netherlands your budy Johny Geerts
I *was* wondering why you needed to beef up the thread, thanks for the explanation at the end👍 - Thanks also for adding in some German phrases to add to the educational aspect of your videos!
Excellent, clean work. Thank you for taking us along on the journey. All the best 👍🇦🇺
Great job as always, thanks for sharing your knowledge and skill.
Your engineering reasoning, decisions and execution are nothing short of amazing! German engineering at its best! Respekt!
To paraphrase ...."Oh, by the way, I made a Weldon tool holder ... with two ejectors in case I got one wrong" I just love Stefan's throw away lines.
Thank you Stefan for another very engaging project.
Expensive drink bottles. Well done as usual.
Thanks Stefan 👍
It is always a pleasure watching you do prototyping, and machine upgrades, and ‘acquiring’ cool machines, and….. the list goes on 🤣
Regards
Robert
Super impressive!
Safe to say we will all be learning a lot from you!
Great video production along with super discussion/demonstration/build
CNMG-431/2 inserts were always my go to insert for turning work. Even in lathes as small as a Hardinge or even small hobby bench lathes. Of course as you go down in power the depth of cut and feed need to be considered. One thing I always liked about the Hardinge lathes was the variable speed DC motor on the feed drive*. It was very easy to dial the feed rate in for good chip control. Unfortunately there are certain materials that just do not break the chip no matter what you do.
*a great modification for any bench lathe as is a Single Tooth Reversing Dog Clutch for threading.
our TOS SV18RA lathe has that single tooth dog clutch for threading.... threading became really easy with it... it also comes with a little lever on the toolpost which allows you to retract around 10mm out of way, so you don´t have to mess with your crosslide handwheel... it´s stock thing, but I always loved it
@@piter_sk
Is it just one direction or both ways. It's one of those things that probably does not add that much cost to the lathe considering they can eliminate the Thread Dial assembly. And the retract lever on the compound. That was something Hardinge had also. One thing people do not seem to understand about setting up gearing for cutting any thread form be it Inch, metric, Module or Diameteral Pitch is it's all about the ratio between the leadscrew and the spindle. If the leadscrew is say 4mm for the pitch and you need to cut a 1.5mm pitch the ratio is 1.5÷4 or .375. Or if there is a QCGB and the leadscrew is say 4TPI. Then cutting a 8TPI thread requires a .5 ratio. I've looked into building my own gearbox for threading and determining the gearing in the selector box is not that hard. And yes a single tooth reversing dog clutch was include. But the STRDC must run the same speed as the spindle. Otherwise they won't repeat.
Yesssssss! Im here to get my brain sharpened, thank you for all the german/english translations, I genuinly try to mimic them every time i hear one. And also...thanks for all the machining stuff too of course. Cheers from vermont
Most Excellent ! You are a Lathe & Mill Artisan !!! Thanks for sharing!
What an interesting project. I used to have to hand file blunt start threads quite often. It was a job i hated. Here in England we called it "half dogging " a screw thread.
Beautiful execution on the thread convolute, and mad deburring skills. The
deburr job really makes the part.👌🏻👏🏻
"Some people say it work hardens, I say your tools get dull"...hahahahaha...I needed a good laugh today!..now I'm inspired to make a crude hopper funnel (no threads) out of aluminum for my coffee grinder. Thanks for the video. PS: now i have to go inspect all my bottles...
The range of tensile strengths for 304 in Stefan's chart provides a woeful telltale -- given that the analysis does not vary, it can only arise from strain hardening.
Hello forn spain ..very good video stefan..thanks for your time
That tool post router is awesome.. I've never seen one before but I've often thought about making one to try, it's good to see one in action
Thank you Stephan,
Instructive as always.
A wonderful jaunt through prototyping a new design including the inevitable tooling jigs. Well thought out work sequence as usual.
Making your own toolpost spindle would be an interesting project. I'm drawing up plans to make one for our lathe based on off-the-shelf shafts, bearings and other parts intended for cheap 3D printers and routers and the like.
17:38 One of these days we will need a gruesome, special.effects laden video about the background of how all these safety precautions came to pass.
_"Staplerfahrer Klaus hat auf Dreher umgeschult"_
_"High Impact Hand Safety vol. II: Surviving Edged Chuck Jaws"_
Another excellent video Stefan. And thanks for the free hearing tests at 7m32s and 11m35s. As a musician it was quite reassuring to confirm I still have pretty good high frequency hearing 🙂
Stefan, real nice work, real nice video again. Thank you for sharing! One question; you preloaded the soft jaws on a piece of round stock clamping on the inside. You use the claws clamping on the outside. Shouldn't you use a ring preloading the soft jaws in the same direction as the part is clamped? Curious about your answer. All the best, Job
Great video! Sequence of operations, work-holding, deburring..........."a problem well-defined is a problem 90% solved". Thanks for sharing. Question/comment: What material will the mating threads be made from? Some kind of glass reinforced, injection molded polymer, I hope? It's been my experience that 304 stainless (SS in general) galls badly, to the point of locking up, over time when mated with aluminum or stainless steel threads.
See the video till end, he shows the final product which indeed a non metal cap.
Yes, getting stainless screws that have galled on the threads can be a real pain in the kiester. Sometimes you need to drill out to just over the root diameter of the screw and take the thread out with a needle nose. Just make sure you are dead nuts to the center of the screw and tapped hole. On assembly we always used Anti Sieze and ran a tap into the holes. And throughly cleaned the holes out. I would have preferred to run in a form tap but they didn't want to spring for them.
@@mvadu Thanks! I didn't realize the cap assy. was a functional prototype. I thought it was more of a 3D-printed assembly model, a just for "look and feel" sort of thing. Cheers, F.C.
omg, stainless galling - I made huge adjustment screws with 25x1mm thread, probably 250mm long at one point - And I was running the threadgage along the screw, to check for fit over the entire length.
It took very a lot of Oil, back and forth to get the threadgage off again, without damaging the part or gage.
(that was 303 stainless)
@@StefanGotteswinter Common ultra-high vacuum hardware: stainless steel nuts, stainless steel bolts, stainless steel washers clamping stainless steel flanged pipe connections. Galling everywhere. Antiseize is messy, which is painful or unacceptable. A common partial solution is silver plated bolts. Silicon bronze nuts and washers work much better whenever you can get away with them.
Hi Stephan. I really enjoy your videos. They are instructional and step by step just like I like to watch. Also you have the uncanny ability to communicate and teach both professionals and non professionals at the same time. You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your journeys.
Thanks for the excellent teaching lesson. Using the tool post grinder/router to cut down the web of the thread was interesting. I always take away new ideas !
I love watching your work, its so far away from my level but its fantastic to know what can be done with the knowledge and gear. Really appreciate the effort it takes to make these video's
Great video! The music at the end was a nice touch. 👍
Particularly good explanations in this one! And I really appreciate the German lessons
I would have guessed it was for liquid nitrogen or oxygen. Looks to be industrial strength.
Exceptional work as always. Thanks for sharing.
Great video as always Stefan, thank you for sharing your knowledge, I always learn something new. 👍👍
woow, new music.... thx4 sharing, and, again, wonderful to see you, doing it, your way....
Stefan, thanks for sharing this (and editing and whatnot) !
I have now for some time adopted a habit to not to knock the workpiece to seat it into the jaws. Instead I push it either with something in the toolpost or in the tailstock and then tighten the jaws. This is because I have had difficulties with the workpiece jumping away from the jaws when knocking it. I know it is something that happens if You knock it too hard. With pushing this does not happen.
That's probably why he used a hammer with animal hide on it (dampening the blow) while also having the part tightened a tiny bit before using the hammer.. there should be no spring-back if you do it that way.
Excellent video presentation as always Stefan! Thank you!
Enjoyed every minute of this Stefan! TFS, GB :)
You are always doing something interesting. Thanks.
I made a dedicated 30mm holder for my annular cutters which fits in the Multifix holder. ie, taking the MT2 out of the system.
(The other end of the 30mm holder has an 18mm socket for my boring bars, ie the ones that fit the UPA3)
Auf so eine Idee muß man erst mal kommen. Weiter so! Du hast Grips, geschickte Hände und offensichtlich Spaß dabei. Diese Kombi sollte sich irgendwann mal so richtig auszahlen! Ich würde es Dir von Herzen gönnen! - Grüße aus DD!
Fantasic. Thank you for machining manual. Your King Man. Cheers from A very snowy Swe. Stay safe buddy. 👊
Really nice work, as always. I hope you end up making it out to the BarZ bash some year. I would really enjoy meeting you in person.
Very informative. Wonderfully meticulous. Thanks!
Klasse Arbeit, Stefan. Ungewöhnliches Projekt, mal was ganz anderes.
I am a simple man, I see a Stefan Gotteswinter video; I smash the like button.
Ich muss gestehen, als ich das Gewinde gesehen hab und dann das mit der Gaskartusche, hab' ich mir gedacht, das dass eine echte Rohrbombe werden könnte wenn man da zu lange 'sprudelt'. Aber beim Kickstarter steht zum Glück, dass es ein Druckablassventil gibt.
Interessantes Projekt
Zusätzlich: Für die Flaschen gabs einen Drucktest der über dem Dampfdruck vom Co2 liegt ;)
Fantastic work as always, thanks for sharing your skills. Cheers from Sweden.
Absolutely beautiful work. I sure do appreciate your ideas and techniques. Thank you for the very well done video.
In the 80's that bottle would've been used to make a 50cc motorcycle aftermarket exhaust pipe 😂😂
Ahhh hot! I can't count how many times I have done this lol. Love your vids man, thank you.
This video was full of useful tips❣️ Thank you Stefan.
Another excellent VDO. Thanks for sharing.
The Roto Broach, or Annular Cutters, are a magnificent piece of tooling.
In woodworking, the expert knows how to hide his mistakes.
When I watched this initially comments were turned off..
For the thread start, I've kind of come up with the same solution, haven't actually made my spindle adapter yet though.. Well done! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience! Your inside and outside chamfer tool, I'm guessing it's just a shop made carbide blank?
Thanks! Yes, I fortgot to turn the comments on, when I put the video live.
The chamfer tool is just a 8mm carbide blank, split in half, ground to 90° and relieved.
For run of 10 it would be fine to install two stops on chuck and just cut with turning insert while rotating head by hand
I had to provide a Higbee (blunt) start on my hardened Myford Super 7 headstock spindle, because I had garked it (long story)., and I came up with the same approach, doing it with a toolpost grinder and turning the leadscrew by hand. It made a perfect job. I had to do it in another Myford, running the spindle in a fixed steady protected from grinding dust by taping several pairs of knickers in turn over the steady and to the spindle (which only had to turn about 180 degrees). I had to do it like this because the Super 7 was disassembled at the time for a "like new" refurbish (and because I won't grind anywhere near the S7)
It is much nicer changing chucks with a blunt start thread. The Myford register is also preferable to the Southbend/Boxford proportions, as it engages before the thread does.
...und wieder hat sich der HobbyschrauBÄR ein paar nette Tricks abschauen können... 👍
Nice Work as always Stefan
I'm so glad you could finally afford a color camera!.
Way to save the lightbulb moment for the end my friend! I knew pressure had to be involved but a built in CO2 cylinder, that's clever.
Am I the only one who’s skin crawls and get shivers up my spine when I see long stringy stainless steel swarf.. lol..
Very nice, thank you for that. Enjoyed as usual.
Your thread cutting trapezoidal tool? Is it hss. I battle with 304 but you make it look so easy.? 2nd question.Does Emco still make stuff. i live in S Africa and its hard to get any stuff. All our chucks seem to be the non reversible type. I have an emco three jaw and would love to buy a set of reversible jaws so I can make soft jaws. Do you think I could find a set of soft jaws for an v13 emco chuck. Thankyou for taking the time to video your work. I learn lot from you.
Nice video, always learn something new from you. One remark. You are cutting 3mm pitch thread, and your leadscrew is also 3mm, .
This means that you don't need to have always closed half nut. You can engage leadscrew at any position. It will always be in alignment... Seems easier, and can be more relaxed when cutting it...
Stefan mentions that possibility, at about 24:20, but he mentions that due to habit (muscle memory) he prefers to stick to what he calls the "European" way, keeping half nuts engaged and backing up.
To me it is not so much European as "metric", as metric leadscrews make it unfeasible to disengage the half nuts, even when doing metric threads which are not a whole multiple of the leadscrew pitch.
This arises because of the way pitch is defined (with the length unit as the numerator -- rather than the length unit as a denominator, with value of 1, as in tpi.
If metric threads were denominated in "threads per dm" rather than "mm per thread", a threading dial would obviously be viable.
It's about the one indisputable advantage I can think of attached to the inch system, and it's why at least one metric lathe manufacture decided to use tpi leadscrews on all their manual lathes -- the one I'm aware of being CMT on their Ursus range -- as it makes the provision of a dual language gearbox simpler, both mechanically and operationally. Of course with CNC, the problem dissolves.
One French lathe manufacturer (Caseneuve) came up with a threading dial for metric threadcutting, but while characteristically brilliant, it was outrageously complicated. There was also an English third party attempt, branded Ainjest, IIRC, which never really caught on.
Hi Stefan, When cutting soft jaws, in my experience it is better to clamp the jaws in the orientation you will be tightening the job in. So if you are gripping in a bore you would clamp the jaws with a ring on the outside of the jaws, this will eliminate any backlash in the scroll and jaws. Best wishes, Mal.
Another good one Stefan thank you.
this a very soft and malleable material you could easily flatten it and roll form the new double thread that requires a fine machining your style !
"It has some engineering in there" made me laugh.
Great video as always Stefan👍
Did you consider a double point start thread or even a triple? They are great for out putting lids on
If the customer already had a design for the adapter you're kind of limited.
@@mpetersen6 yeah I do t know why I said actually it would have been 3x the work
Nope, customer design, this was tricky enough already ;)
3:25 In my experience drilling 304-stanless, you must keep a chip going. If it ever "rubs" (no chip) it's very hard to press through. Often I would change the angle of the twist drill To pointier then flatter until I break through the hard stuff, then re-sharpen as normal.
Nice prototyping work.
50 extra credit points for using the term Kitty wampus... Probably one of my all time favorite words to describe a very special situation. Not to be confused with Fubar of course... lol. I'll let you google that one if you dont know it already. Cheers
Is preloading the jaws using a part inside the jaws a good idea when you're going to be gripping on the outside? I'd think that the deflections would not be representative of the final use. A ring for preloading would be better. I'm sure it's more than good enough for most work.
I think you're right on both counts.
On your note of threading without a compound slide; do you have any way of picking up an existing thread if needed? Like re-indexing the part or geartrain?
Epic stainless water bottles, wow👍👌🇦🇺
I do hope your customer sells a million of these; the setup costs seem to be considerable. Thank you for explaining what the the threads are for; I was certainly puzzled.
That's what CNC is for. Start with DOM or cast material. But if you are going to be making a million of them a dedicated multispindle indexing lathe such as a Cone-a-Matic might actually be faster. Time is money. I used to know a guy with a 2 or 3 person shop. He had a Cone-a-Matic set up specifically for doing the nose caps for 5" naval shells out of bar stock. One index of the machine and the parts were cut off and finished.
Oh heck yes, finally I will be able to drink those European beverages!
.. you had me at "drink" .. cheers!